NumBER 13 february 2014

Transcription

1 NumBER 13 february 2014

2 e d i t o r i a l summary e d i t o r i a l pag. 2 The grande bellezza of Emilia Romagna 3 A journey back in time with Liano and Tauleto 3 Ending the year with a bang 3 Umberto Cesari DEAR FRIENDS, Here we are at the 13 th issue of our magazine, and we said good-by to an extremely positive Let s start with the harvest, which will be remembered as one of the latest in recent years; it began almost a month late, but yielded us excellent results, both in crop quantity as well as in the quality of the red and white grapes we brought in. The growing season was exceptional particularly for the Albana passito wine, thanks to an excellent September of sunny, warm days that favoured a natural semi-drying of the grapes on the vine and significant day-night temperature differentials that built up aromatic compounds. The year as marked by impressive successes as well. Most important was the nomination of Tauleto 2007 as Best Italian Wine by the Hong Kong International Wine & Spirit Competition. Second, but no less important, was Vieni con me in Emilia Romagna initiative, the twin events organised in Montréal and in Mexico City to promote the fine wines and foods of our region. In order to give greater space to a report of this project, which involved the talents of two celebrities of the calibre of Massimo Bottura and Luca Gardini, and to give you a detailed account of the two magnificent evenings that starred my wines and my Emilia Romagna, you will not find some of our usual columns in this issue, but they will return on the next issue. I wish you enjoyable reading and look forward to the next issue, Come with me to Emilia Romagna 4 Numbers & Curiosities 5 Menu 5 Wines 5 f r o m ba r r i q u e t o m o u i l l e t t e Spring s new fruit: the inverted wine glass 6 W o m a n i n w i n e Bacchus, her cheeriest friend (and of her skin as well) 6 r e c i p e o f t h e s e a s o n Risotto Cacio e pepe 6 I t s y o u r t u r n... Moreno Sintucci 7 a b o u t w i n e Moma Rosso 7 U p c o m i n g e v e n t s : PROWEIN: Düsseldorf, 23 th /25 th March 2014 VINITALY: Verona, 6 th /9 th April 2014 VINEXPO hong kong: Hong Kong, 27 th /29 th May 2014 Periodical of Cesari Srl - Copyrighted with the Tribunale di Bologna n of 22/01/10 General Editor: Gianmaria Cesari Owner and publisher: Cesari Srl - via Stanzano 1120, Castel San Pietro Terme (Bo) Tel info@umbertocesari.it Print: La Greca, Forlì u m b e r t o c e s a r i n e w s

3 THE grande bellezza OF emilia romagna by Lorenzo Frassoldati There is great talk about a new economy in Italy, of a new Renaissance, characterised by catchwords such as quality, beauty, culture, food, wine, fashion, environment, lifestyle Material and immaterial values that create wealth, jobs, business opportunities, exports across the globe, rebirth of local areas and ancient villages, rediscovery of lost arts and professions, of a craftsmanship that conjoins time-honoured manual artistry and cutting-edge technology. Among the standard-bearers of this Renaissance is Oscar Farinetti, padrone of Eataly and great retailer and distributor of high-quality artisanal food products, ambassador to the world - but also to Italy - of the Made in Italy brand, since the wealth of our food and wine resources is a terra incognita to so many. Luxury (and don t be afraid to pronounce this word) rewards us with fashion, new directions, an economy: the exalted signatures of the designers bring in their wake the ready-to-wear, the Barolo and Brunello locomotives pull behind them the Sangiovese di Romagna, Lambrusco and Montepulciano d Abruzzo goods wagons. The new stars are the chefs, the wine tasters, the sommeliers. Farinetti never tires of asserting that culture and oenogastronomy nourish each other and enrich the local areas, growing business and tourism. And so it gladdens the heart and spirit to witness the success of initiatives such as Vieni con me in Emilia Romagna (Come with me to Emilia Romagna), which Umberto Cesari has created to bring to Canada and Mexico the food, wine, and culture of Emilia Romagna, supported by two exceptional interpreters of the region, Massimo Bottura and Luca Gardini. Emilia Romagna, in fact, is the cradle of Italy s oenogastronomy, and it is no coincidence that Pellegrino Artusi s celebrated 1929 food tract, Talismano della felicità (The Talisman of Happiness), became the Ten Commandments of the national cuisine. This region ranks first in Italy and even in Europe for protected-denomination foods (DOP and IGP). Its two iconic wines, Sangiovese and Lambrusco, were born and grew up both alongside and together with the region s cuisine and its priceless raw ingredients, and the success of both its fine wine and food compelled the rediscovery of a tradition at once both populist and noble, of a history of local areas that draws from their ancient farming past the life-force for growth and innovation, thus creating an agro-industrial system unique in the world. Wine and growing area are the winning binomial in the marketplace, and our wines, thanks to the level of quality they have reached, are ready for the challenge. So is our region, which, however, needs more attention and investment from the public authorities, reinforcing the efforts of private entities. It needs more visibility, through combination of policies that would render more attractive our art cities, our hills, all of our places that are beautiful to gaze at and visit, where we eat well and drink even better. On a regional level, all of the stakeholders should be working together and synergistically: the coast, with its millions of tourists, the Appennine, with its pristine environment, the art cities, with their historical centres and cultural fairs. The restaurant network should be involved, to increase the range of local wines that partner so well with our traditional dishes, since there are still too many wine lists that speak in the tongues of other regions. We need trained and inquisitive sommeliers who will guide customers towards choices different from the usual. We need more teamwork by the many public authorities responsible for promotion, all the more since with the new Common Agricultural Policy and Local Marketing Organisations, European Union promotional funds can now be used within the European countries and not just outside the EU. This funding, consisting of 500 million euros for Europe and 100 for Italy, is a unique resource that no food sector enjoys. These funds should be employed with great perspicacity and care. t a s t e A journey back in time with Liano and TaulETO On 22 January, at the Park Hyatt Hotel of Milan, a vertical tasting retraced the evolution of two of Umberto Cesari s great wines, Liano and Tauleto, with tasters exploring Liano 1998, 1999, 2005 and 2006, and Tauleto 1999, 2000, 2001 and The vertical tasting was conducted magisterially by 2010 world champion sommelier Luca Gardini, who elaborated on the qualities of each wine and highlighted the characteristics of each individual vintage year. The tasting concluded with Liano 1998, a vintage which stood head and shoulders above the rest. Its impressions of earthiness, its notes of raspberry, sour cherry, and morello cherry liqueur were the qualities that most impressed the gathering, as well as the fine acidity it still possesses. The 1999 and 2000 vintages of Tauleto were particularly impressive, as well, displaying appealing tannins and that countryish character that is classic to its terroir. A true journey back in time, and a day that privileged the finest culinary creations and above all the wines of Umberto Cesari. Ending the year with a bang The year closed with a bang for Umberto Cesari, as the final months bought home the most prestigious awards and accolades. The most impressive was the nomination of Tauleto 2007 as the Best Italian Wine at the Hong Kong International Wine & Spirit Competition. Following the award as the Best Italian Red Wine last year and as Best Sangiovese at London s IWSC in 2007 and 2004, this becomes the umpteenth recognition of the quality of this Sangiovese. But the famous competition did not laud just Tauleto: Liano Sangiovese Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 and Moma Rosè 2012 won the Silver Medal, while Sangiovese di Romagna DOC Riserva 2010, Yemula 2010, Moma Rosso 2011 and Liano Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc 2011 took home Bronzes. The latter wine, together with Moma Bianco 2012, was awarded another Bronze in the Wine & Food Pairing category, for wines that pair best with the traditional dishes of Asian cuisines. Nor has the quality of Tauleto passed unnoticed in Italy: Luca Maroni s Annual Guide to Italy s Best Wines awarded it 91 points out of 99, describing it as One of the most perfect wines in Emilia Romagna. It shows the majesty and roundedness of a great Amarone, a seductive symphony of the richest spiced black cherry, magnificently Sangiovese. f e b r u a r y

4 l i v e Come with me to Emilia Romagna: Introduce and enhance, across the sea, the oenogastronomic treasures of Emilia Romagna. This was the overriding objective that led Umberto Cesari to launch an unprecedented initiative: Vieni con me in Emilia Romagna (Come with me to Emilia Romagna). It involved two gala dinner, held Monday 28 th October at the Ristorante Graziella in Montréal and Thursday 31 st October at the La Cantinetta del Becco in Mexico City. For these ultra-special evenings, Umberto Cesari brought together three true stars of Emilia Romagna. In first place, the winery s wines. In second place, Massimo Bottura, the Italian cooking genius ranked in the top 3 on the list of S. Pellegrino s The World s 50 Best Restaurants Awards, the chef who has reinterpreted the Emilia Romagna cuisine better than any other person. And finally, Luca Gardini, the 2010 World s Best Sommelier. Guests enjoyed Memory of a mortadella sandwich, made with the most authentic Bologna IGP; Risotto cacio e pepe, where the cheese was in fact, Parmigiano Reggiano from some of the more than 400,000 wheels that were destroyed in the 2012 earthquake; Roast veal in an emulsion of beet and Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena DOP. Only some of the seven courses that Massimo Bottura created, all strictly prepared with raw ingredients from Emilia Romagna brought specifically from Italy for the occasion. Every course perfectly paired with Umberto Cesari wines, introduced by Luca Gardini, who illustrated the almost-endless nuances of each. Guests Massimo Bottura Guests Graziella restaurant, Montréal La Cantinetta del Becco, Mexico City Massimo Bottura, Gianmaria Cesari, Rolly Pavia - Owner of La Cantinetta del Becco, Luca Gardini 4 u m b e r t o c e s a r i n e w s

5 Umberto Cesari crosses the sea with the food, wines, and culture of his region, with two nonpareil guests, Massimo Bottura and Luca Gardini. n u m b E R s & C U R i o s i T I E S 6 months of organisation 180 bottles of wine 1100 glass of wine 10 Kg of Mortadella 3 Parmigiano Reggiano wheels 500 g of white truffles 93 people at work 40 journalists 53 published articles The wines of this Romagna winery represent the uniqueness of this growing area, with its broad range of nuances, but they reflect as well the identity and philosophy of their producer. In the case of Umberto Cesari, this translates into painstaking attention to the vineyards, quality-selection of the grapes, and extraordinary care in the winemaking process. All of this yields impeccable wines, each with its own distinctive personality, yet all clearly marked by their superb terroir. Luca Gardini When Gianmaria explained the project of bringing Emilia Romagna and its products to Mexico and Canada, to give their palates a taste of heaven, I said: Let s do it, absolutely! Massimo Bottura La Cantinetta del Becco staff s Mise en place M E N U w i N E s Memory of a mortadella sandwich Leeks and truffles from the sea to the hills Compression of pasta and beans Risotto cacio e pepe Roasted veal with red beet emulsion and Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Modena Vignola maraschino sorbet Tiramisu is just a dessert Moma Bianco 2012 Liano Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Laurento Sangiovese di Romagna DOC Riserva 2010 Yemula Sangiovese Merlot Rubicone IGT 2010 Liano Sangiovese Cabernet Sauvignon Rubicone IGT 2010 Tauleto Sangiovese Rubicone IGT 2007 Colle del Re Albana di Romagna DOCG Passito 2005 f e b r u a r y

6 c a r e F R O M ba r r i q u e t o m o u i l l e t t e spring s NEw FRuit: THE INVERTED WINE GLASS Great news in the Tauleto Wine Fragrance family: a new arrival! With the full flowering of spring, a new and fascinating product, in limited edition, has budding out: the inverted wineglass. Produced in only 500 pieces, this completely hand-made blown glass superbly expresses the elegance and uniqueness of the glassblower s art. The inverted wine glass suffuses any room with the Tauleto fragrance, with its classic scents of wild red berryfruit, orange, rose petals, sweet violets, and magnolia, lifted by subtle notes of black liquorice, fresh moss, and just-moistened earth. This creation comes from the dedication of Giuliana Cesari, whose efforts over more than ten years have been continuously focused on new and original ideas that will fully reflect the spirit of the Tauleto Wine Fragrance line, objects and rituals inspired by the world of wine, all with a common denominator: the utterly unique aromas of Tauleto Sangiovese. For information: W o m a n i n W i n e Bacchus, her cheeriest friend (and of her skin as well) by Renata Ortolani After reigning and governing the holiday tables (as well as lying beneath the tree as a gift), His Majesty Wine, in his red, golden, or rosé robes, in still or sparkling style, now rests briefly, just long enough for an abbreviated Lent, then he s up again and on to Carnevale parties. To then take off again to play the lion s part in the glasses raised on high for the 8 March and Women s Day, and then again at the Easter feasts. And after that? A long inebriating race, without pausing, through the long hot summer... OK, this look into Bacchus appointments is quite enough to confirm one of his added values and one of the qualities that make him a now-inseparable companion during social occasions (as well as those more solitary) for women. Bacchus nectar is one of the most powerful antidepressants within reach, that works at any hour and at any latitude far better than a session with your psychiatrist and better than a pilgrimage to the temples of shopping. Without forgetting, of course, that yes, you can drink it, but you also have the opportunity, thanks to Giuliana Cesari s line inspired by Tauleto, to use it, replacing the now all-too-classic perfumes, as your only dress : a scented cloud to literally turn his head. In a word, the change is now carved in stone: if the dog is his best friend, then His Majesty Wine is well on its way to being proclaimed woman s best friend, and, naturally, of her friends as well. m a t c h R E C I P E o f t h e s e a s o n risotto CACio e PEPE Chef Massimo Bottura IngredientS FOR 4: 0,5 Kg Vialone Nano rice 1,5 Kg Parmigiano Reggiano aged 30 months Selection of peppers Tap water PrOCEDURE: Grate the Parmigiano and add some tap water. Heat to C, then strain, cover with foodwrap and let rest in the refrigerator overnight. On the bottom of the bowl will be a hard crust; remove, and in the centre will be water intensely scented with Parmigiano, while the cheese fat will rise to the top and form a solid dough. Set the dough aside; it will be used to coat the rice. Heat a little extravirgin olive oil in a saucepan, add the rice and let it toast. When the grains are nicely hot, add the Parmigiano water slowly. If the broth is too salty, add a ladle of hot water. Cook until the rice is somewhat stiff in texture, then let rest a few minutes. When finished cooking, coat with a bit of the Parmigiano fat so that the surface is creamy. Plate and serve with a selection of different peppers. RECOMMENDED WINE: Liano Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc Rubicone IGT 6 u m b e r t o c e s a r i n e w s

7 i t s y o u r t u r n... MORENO SINTUCCI Restaurant Notte e Dì, Milano Marittima (RA) Just a few steps from the centre of Milano Marittima we meet Moreno Sintucci, owner and maître of the restaurant that he has been directing now for 35 years, Notte e Dì. Sintucci s life has been spent in the restaurant field, and he purchased this establishment in 1979; since then he has managed it with entrepreneurial skill and his never faltering desire to keep in the mix. He is familiar to the public for his acrobatic sorbet, which won him a spot in the TV program Italia s Got Talent, but TV is not his only venue, since he has his own most critical public right in his own restaurant. What do you like best about your work? Most of all, I like interacting with people, but also experiencing and solving, together with my staff, the problems that we encounter every day. What do you like least? The fact that the times have changed. My customers don t ask advice any more, and this is one whites of the north and young reds. I m not too fond of barrelaged wines. What wine would you offer to your best friend? A spumante or a fine Italian sparkler. What wine would you offer to your worst enemy? A noaccount wine, one of those that no one wants to drink. If you were a wine, which would it be? A very structured and full-bodied wine, one of those that tastes better the longer it ages. When did you begin to buy Umberto Cesari wines? Right away. When I opened in 79, they were among the first wines I bought, since they re crisp, well balanced, with good quality and reasonable prices. What s your favourite Umberto Cesari wine? I like the traditional wines, like Albana Colle del Re Secco or Sangiovese DOC. Can you tell us an anecdote or an of the most unfortunate things that can happen in my work, since it makes the job too cut and dried. Moreno Sintucci amusing story about Sangiovese or about an Umberto Cesari wine? I like to use wines in novel ways, for example What are the three things you would take with you on a desert isle? My wife, my tools kit, and a bottle of Sangiovese. What are your favourite wines? I really like the aromatic as an ingredient in piadina, our traditional flatbread, so in the summer, every Wednesday, for our traditional Romagna evening menu, I offer piadina al Sangiovese, always with Umberto Cesari A B O U T W i n e moma ROSSO RubICONe IGT d i s c o v e r MOMA is a line of wines created for consumers that love youthful, up with the times wines. The name MOMA is an acronym for MyOwnMAsterpiece, referring to the artwork on the front label, the winning work in an art competition. The Rosso (red) was the first to emerge, in 2005, followed by Moma Bianco (white) two years later; in 2010, Moma Rosè and Moma Spumante completed the line. Moma Rosso, a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, offers appealing, balanced tannins; a bouquet marked by generous fruit and floral fragrances; and a palate distinctive for its roundedness and full volume. Each year Moma Rosso brings home more than its share of awards and medals from the most prestigious international competitions: silver at the 2013 Sélection Mondiales des Vins, silver at the 2012 IWSC and gold at the 2010 Sommelier Wine Awards, to mention just a few. Classification: Rubicone IGT Grapes: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Vinification: In vertical stainless steel fermenters at controlled temperature for days. Aging: 6 months in 30-hectolitre Allier oak barrels, 3 months in the bottle. Alcohol content: 13% vol. Ageing potential: Its evolution can be appreciated over the next 2-5 years. Colour: Rich ruby red. Notes: Intense notes of wild berryfruit and raspberry. Flavour: Velvety and smooth. Matching to: Perfect partner with all the courses of a meal, particularly with dishes such as tagliatelle al ragù, but with poultry, veal, ad red meat as well. f e b r u a r y

8 v For further information: tel: and follow us CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. CE. N. 1234/07 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EC REG. 1234/07 CAMPAGNE FINANCEE CONFORMEMENT AU REG.CE 1234/07 CERT. N. IT01/0442