WATERPROOFING PRODUCTS & TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Transcription

1 WATERPROOFING PRODUCTS & TECHNICAL INFORMATION DO IT ONCE-DO IT RIGHT-FIXED FOR GOOD 1

2 ABOUT THE AUTHOR The Waterproofing membrane systems that are designed and installed today are aimed at protecting building and structures from the effects of water ingress. This script is designed to widen your awareness of waterproofing products, their capacities and their induction routines and methods, as to emphasize the importance of waterproofing systems within the construction industry. The building industry is a fast and cost driven industry and unless the construction company can offer the customer a quality product they may discover it difficult to compete in the construction marketplace. When it comes to waterproofing contractors and products we have to assume that price comes before quality? John Blase is a passionate person with over 30 years experience within the building and waterproofing industry. A boiler maker for five years, thirteen years with Humes ARC and Smorgons steel in supplying reinforced steel to major projects in Brisbane and on both coasts. Nine years as a waterproofing applicator which included running and organizing high rise projects, hot roll and pour installations, sheet and liquid membrane installations? Five years as the QLD waterproofing Manager for Ardex Australia, four years as General Manager for Bayset Enterprises, which included a continuation of the report and specification writing for builders, applicators and Architects. John Blasé is Trade qualified and holds a certification four which allows for the training of waterproofing applicators and their apprentices in Qld. My true aim is to provide a better and more professional waterproofing industry with contractors as to install the correct waterproofing systems without compromising the integrity of the waterproofing, or the structure. This book will offer you a complete range of waterproofing products with best practices and correct technical information in todays market place. REMEMBER NOBODY IS AN EXPERT 2

3 Why waterproofing is A Risky Business THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS BROCHURE IS TO, Broaden your awareness of waterproofing products and their installation procedures. To emphasize its importance on the building site. The pros and cons of the different types of membranes of our markets today. For most people, waterproofing is an impervious barrier which is designed to prevent water from entering or escaping from a part of a structure or sections of a building. Waterproofing practices date back to the days of Noahs Ark, the 40 days of rain that prepared the people to take some form of action to stop water entering their dwelling and habitats. People then used hay, leaves, mud or clay mixed with grass or hay to form a waterproof barrier to stop the flow of water entering. It is difficult, but not impossible, to conduct strictly honest business -Mahatma Gandhi THE IMPORTANCE OF WATERPROOFING The real importance of waterproofing reflects on the consequences of NOT waterproofing. Water damage is second only to fire as a cause of building decay and deterioration in Australia, even Government divisions like the CSIRO state that building materials we use have a considerably shorter life span when subjected to moisture or water emersion over a period of time. 3

4 Water that enters a structure by default has immediate and long term effects. Apart from water damage to the structure and its contents, structural damage is unavoidable if the problems are constant. Water damage causes rotting of timber and timber finishes, corrosion of metals and reinforced steel, swelling of Gyprock and plasterboards, electrical hazards, blistering of paint, deterioration of building facades, rotting carpets, and health problems due to dampness and Mold. With all the problems we have with waterproofing the importance of waterproofing can never be overstated or overstated. THE MEMBRANES We mainly have two types of waterproofing membranes. Sheet membranes, and liquid applied membranes. Each has its own characteristics which also comes with its own problems. As we say in the building industry, the membranes are only as good as the installer. THE MEMBRANE ROLE To achieve waterproofing; a membrane must firstly be impermeable to prevent water entering or escaping. Must be flexible and accommodate normal building movement. Be durable and be able to retain its integrity over a long period of time, and be able to lend itself to design details in the building and be suitable for that specification. Some instances, the membrane will need to breathe to allow moisture and vapor to escape, be compatible with tile adhesives, renders, paints, and other building products, and provide a continuous film without weakness to withstand environmental and climatic conditions. Waterproofing has become simple with contractors due to the programmed intellect by Australian standards and manufacturers. We now have so many products and manufacturers either producing or importing waterproofing products that the products outweigh the knowledge and experience within the industry. FOR ALL, WATERPROOFING MEMBRANE SYSTEMS TO WORK AS INTENDED SHOULD BE INSTALLED TO FALLS AND CROSS FALLS. 4

5 SHEET MEMBRANES Bitumen torch applied membranes. PVC membranes Bentonite membranes TPO membranes EPDM membranes Self adhesive membranes Butynol membranes Photovoltaic membranes ADVANTAGES Can be loose laid or fully bonded Guaranteed thickness Cover joints, cracks and imperfections in the substrate Quick to install and remove It has good insulating properties and is very resilient To offer long term security Good durability with weathering in all climates The materials do not break down DISADVANTAGES Terminations and flashing Lap joints Compatible with other building products Roots and vegetation Should simply be applied as a roofing and below ground membrane system? LIQUID MEMBRANES Acrylic membranes Latex membranes Cement-based membranes, including additives Polyurethane membranes Epoxy-based membranes Bitumen membranes Plural component membranes 5

6 ADVANTAGES Semi-Flexibility Are fully bonded and monolithic Can be UV Stable and have the ability to breathe Easy and simple to apply Are a homogenous layer Easy to detail and flash Some are easy to repair and re-coat Cost effective systems Some are able to accommodate negative pressures DISAVANTAGES Most are easily damaged Coating thickness varies Sensitive to humidity and weathering Poor bonding to substrates if not prepared correctly Chemical residue contamination can result Short lifespan when left uncovered Building movement Compatibility issues with other building products Polyurethane membranes shall be in limited in their role in the succeeding two years due to their incompatibility with tile adhesive and other building finishes. WHY DO WE HAVE PROBLEM? Australian standards are poor and interpreted differently by many people. Limited Expertise and knowledge within the Waterproofing industry. Too many Waterproofing products on the market. Lack of technical knowledge by Manufacturers and their representatives. Lack of supervision by waterproofing contractors. Too many tilers waterproofing. Too many builders waterproofing their own work. Programmed intellect 6

7 WHO IS RESPONCIBLE WE ALL ARE. Government bodies and legislation. Builders. Designers. Manufacturers of Waterproofing Products. Waterproofing Contractors. Tilers. WHAT CAN WE DO? Appoint a Waterproofing Consultant for the project. Waterproofing Considerations at the conception level. Use waterproofing contractors with ten or more years experience. Implement a Quality Assurance program. Use the same waterproofing Contractors for each Project. Apply the same waterproofing products for that special application. (Put systems in place) All of the above mentioned will reduce the risk considerably. Only use tilers that have a separate waterproofing certification or license. SUMMARY Waterproofing has grown significantly over the past ten years, making more people aware of just how important and significant waterproofing need to be within the building industry. Waterproofing is a critical component of all building structures and the ramifications of failing to waterproof, or waterproof inadequately can be a staggering cost to a builder. LEAVE WATERPROOFING WITH EXPERIENCED PEOPLE, NOT KNOWLEDGEABLE PEOPLE 7

8 LIFT PITS Lift pits are constructed in two ways, a blinding lift pit or a constructed lift pit. The blinding lift pit is constructed and tanked from the ground up usually with a sheet membrane system are quite simple to tank. The erected lift pit has already been built from masonry block, concrete or tilt panel construction. If excess is comfortable, they are all easily tanked. Blinding lift pit Shall always be a sheet membrane system, preferably a two layered torch applied bitumen membrane which is terminated by a pressure seal or a reglet. 8

9 Masonry block and concrete Should always be a two-part cement based system such as Mapelastic Smart or Mapelastic Foundation installed as below Comments, We would always recommend tanking the inside of the lift pit as per the external tanking. 9

10 BASEMENT WATERPROOFING At the present time there are no waterproofing standards in place for below ground waterproofing or tanking. What we do have is a product knowledge base of manufacturers, and best practice guidelines and processes. Most basements will suffer from water ingress in their life time. There really has not been a waterproofing membrane system designed for underground or blindside tanking. Many manufacturers have tried with different membrane systems, but all have failed? This is not really the membranes fault, as the biggest issue is the membrane systems installed under and around basements are really designed for basement applications due to drainage systems and the design of the basements. Products such as bitumen sheet membranes, swellable bentonite, HDPE, PVC, concrete additives and spray applied membranes have all been used for blindside and basement tanking in Australia. Have any been successful; NO There is not a membrane system on the market designed to protect a basement FULLY from moisture or water ingress as each basement is designed and constructed differently and with different situations. Some basements will be fine with two or three coats of a waterproof membrane, while others may need a waterproof membrane and a drainage system put in place. We understand that waterproofing is required when a structure is built at ground level or below ground. Ground water is likely to build up in the soil and this causes the water table to rise, and the higher the water table the more hydrostatic pressure is exerted underneath and around the basement floors and walls. Hydrostatic pressure will force water through crack and joint in a basement, including openings caused by expansion and contraction, especially in the footing-foundation wall, floor joints, and also cracks or expansion joints in floor areas. Hydrostatic pressure can create major structural damage to basement foundations and walls and will also cause mold, concrete decay and other moisture related problems 10

11 WHAT IS THE ANSWER? Control water flow by establishing the correct drainage system for the particular volume of water, install a double wet wall system with internal spoon drains. Membrane system externally as to decrease water ingress. BEST PRODUCTS FOR UNDER-SLAB WATERPROOFING RIMPROOF PREPRUFE BENTONITE APP/SBS TORCH APPLIED BITUMEN MEMBRANES A sheet applied membrane system will give the builder a far more secure waterproofing system under the slab. Where we throw the issues when establishing these types of membrane systems is the amount of detailing that is taken to build the structure All penetrations in these sheet systems will be the weak link of the membrane system as they cannot be terminated as a sheet membrane should be? Most sheet membrane systems are best suited for protecting roof areas, and yet manufacturers use the same membrane system in other areas where it may not be better accommodated. Architects and Engineers specify waterproofing products for large projects by only reading data sheets, or talking to the manufacturers representatives who actually are not experienced enough to give the correct information. All waterproofing membranes are designed for one purpose and one purpose only, to keep water from entering the building or structure. My advice to you all is, use waterproofing products that deliver a long and durable history. Below is a list of waterproofing membranes that are currently on the market today for waterproofing under the building. The term for this type of waterproofing is commonly known as blinding or envelope waterproofing. 11

12 After many technological advances in waterproofing products and building design and there technics, we still have not managed to to make basements watertight from the ingress of water. This is not always due to the effectiveness or lack of the waterproofing systems and products being provided by manufacturers, but the increasing complexity of the building and a disregard for basic waterproofing principles. Water and moisture are the most destructive force on concrete, masonry and natural stone building in Australia and without a permanent waterproofing system the integrity and the life cycle of the building can severely be compromised. Good products can be sold by honest advertising. If you don t think the product is good, you have no business to be advertising it. David Ogilvy UNDERGROUND DRAINAGE Underground drainage is really significant as water drainage systems must accommodate hydrostatic pressures and constantly changing water tables. The builder must have an appropriate below ground drainage system in place to control the water conditions that are present beneath the earth, and above the ground to minimize water away from the foundations and walls of the basement. In some cases clay based membranes such as Bentonite systems require water to maintain its waterproofing properties and their performance when used in blinding situations. Bentonite or clay based membrane systems are not best suited for brick or block work structures. Water comes from two sources only; ground water, and surface water. For all waterproofing membrane systems to work as intended, the control and diversion of water are an imperative key in the design of the building. 12

13 Drainage systems must also be designed and have the ability to accommodate the rise in water due to rain or natural capillary action of soils. The design of any drainage system is very important for the membrane systems chosen to work effectively as to remain durably in the life cycle of the building. We are not talking about protecting the membrane system here, this is the responsibility of the waterproofing contractor, the final drainage system is discussed between the plumber and the builder. Conventional drainage such as Aggie drains perform poorly as over time they fill with silt, soil and plant roots which will eventually clog the drainage causing more pressure on the membrane system. There are now more acceptable drainage systems on the market now, but the cost always out performs quality when it comes to draining water away from structures. Water control is imperative and with the correct drainage systems installed behind walls, they will give exceptional drainage facilities, especially when concrete slabs are skinny or masonry block work is used. A good drainage system shall provide protection for the waterproofing membrane system, and will also reduce hydrostatic pressures. The advantage of installing a superior drainage system is that it saves on backfilling with expensive gravel or blue-stone, gives superior protection for the membrane system, and provides a quick channel for water to escape quickly and effectively. We don t recommend PP Coreflute boards as they sweat between membrane and PP Coreflute which may cause issues with the membrane system chosen EDUCATION IS WHEN YOU READ THE FINE PRINT. EXPERIENCE IS WHAT YOU GET IF YOU DON T. -PETER SEEGER 13

14 BEST DETAIL FOR BLINDING MEMBRANES Whether the walls are sheet piling or secant piles, the membrane system chosen should turn up the face walls at least 500mm above the height of the main slab. We would always advise the builder that a spoon, drain be installed in the internal basement perimeter with appropriate drainage. 14

15 Builders also put great faith in the ability of water-stops in providing a complete water seal at all concrete junctions. WATER-STOPS WATER STOP HISTORY Sealing joints in concrete have not changed much since the early 1940`s as PVC (polyvinyl chloride) water stops is still being used today to stop water passing through the joints. Each year in Queensland millions of dollars are spent on secondary waterproofing products to stop water penetration into property. Why do we have this problem? The most common problem with PVC water stops is that they are not successful in their ability to provide for expansion and contraction nor a continuous barrier against water penetration through the joint as they are difficult to install and secure and easily displaced during concrete placement. Water stops are elements of concrete structures which are intended to prevent the passages of water when installed the correctly. All water stops must be installed continuously through the concrete joints and in a straight line as to work effectively in the joint. Water stops are manufactured from numerous products which include extruded plastics such as flexible polyvinyl chloride, which is PVC, polyethylene PE, or thermoplastic vulcanized rubber TPO. Other materials that are in use for water stops are styrene butadiene natural rubber, neoprene rubber, Chloroprene rubber, hydrophilic modified bentonite systems. Hydrophobic water stops such as PVC, and rubber are supplied in coils and are generally between 180 mm and 250 mm wide with a variety of profiles that interlock when concrete is installed. These profiles lock into the concrete which allow for limited movement within the joint and are installed in a continuous line within the concrete joint. When the PVC needs to change direction or be joined a thermoplastic heat welding machine is used incorporating a jig, to join the PVC together. There are mainly two types of PVC water stops, ribbed or center bulb. 15

16 Ribbed are mainly used centrally in non-working joints as they can only accommodate for small amounts of transverse movement within the control joint. Centre bulb water stops have a bulb in the middle to accommodate for all joint configurations, including expansion joints, where the c entire bulb should never be covered with concrete. The larger the bulb in the middle of the PVC water stops the better the movement capabilities are for the joint to expand. Joints that need PVC water stops need to meet certain criteria s before installation such as type of joint, placement, hydrostatic pressure, reo bar position, concrete thickness and slump, chemical resistance, and joint movement. This is why an Engineer should specify PVC water stops in joints. THE GOOD AND THE BAD OF PVC WATER STOPS. Hard to install Most PVC water stops are limited with the expansion and contraction of concrete and this will cause the PVC water stop to split. Concrete has issues adhering to concrete. Joints have to be welded on site which is very difficult and never done correctly. Problems with warping in concrete. PVC water stops have a higher rate of failure over swell able water stops. Conclusion: With the different types of water stops on the market today, it is wise to choose the right one for that particular construction. Construction time lines and budget are the key considerations when choosing water stops, but if you choose the wrong one you jeopardize the structure if the joint leaks. HYDROPHILIC WATER STOPS Hydrophilic water stops first came to light in the 90`s and are strips which are modified with hydrophilic additives like bentonite (montmorillonite) encased by polyisobutylene rubber so they swell in the presence of water to seal 16

17 Bentonite water stops can swell up to 15 times its dry volume when in contact with fresh water, but the swelling is much less in salt water, around 4 times its dry volume. Bentonite water stops must be kept dry before and after installation as exposure to moisture or rain can cause the bentonite to swell and warp as it swells prematurely which will weaken the concrete and joint when concrete is poured. As with the PVC water stop bentonite water stops can be displaced or damaged during the concrete pour so care is to be taken by the contractor when water stops are put in place. As with most hydrophilic water stops they eventually dry out and will disintegrate due to their wet/dry cycles making them less suitable in wet environments. URETHANE WATER STOPS Like bentonite, urethane water stops are spongy hydrophilic compounds that when exposed to water swell up to 350% of their original volume to form a seal in the joint. They have the same issues as bentonite water stops above, but have the ability to cause concrete blow outs and concrete to crack. As with most hydrophilic water stops they eventually dry out and will disintegrate due to their wet/dry cycles making them less suitable in wet environments. THE GOOD AND THE BAD OF HYDROPHILIC WATER STOPS Easy application, with no welding. Swelling and shrinking are reversible procedures. They expand to every crack and cavity. They are more suitable for fresh water Can be reinforced with stainless wire mesh to stop snaking, They are not suitable for expansion joints Swell prematurely if rained on or ground is moist or wet. Can be displaced if not installed correctly. Can fail if cement slurry gets between the water stop and the concrete Have limited dry/wet cycles and will disintegrate in time. 17

18 Conclusion: Bentonite water stops are here to stay as they are much easier to install, and with the proper attention they can offer easy and reliable waterproofing solutions for a short time. Summary It is my opinion that hydrophilic/urethane water stops are much easier to install and work a little better in the joints if installed correctly, they do not handle movement well, salt water delays and will decrease swelling performance, and they have limited wet/dry cycles before they fall apart. PVC water stops have been around much longer and if installed correctly work more efficiently and are the true guaranteed water stops. My opinion is that; MOST PVC WATER STOPS PERFORM AT 75% BEFORE FAILURE, WITH 50% FOR THE SWELLABLE WATERSTOPS. BASEMENT WALL WATERPROOFING Every waterproofing contractor should know water penetration causes damage by vapor transmission through porous surfaces by direct seepage that s is in a liquid state. Basements structures are usually constructed for the use of car parking facilities for the tenants/owners of the building or their customers. The waterproofing membranes must be different from the waterproofing membranes we use above ground due to the severity of the water conditions and exposure to hydrostatic pressures and changing water tables. Drainage systems are also important when choosing a membrane system for basement wall waterproofing. Large basement structures should recommend diversion drainage systems as to accommodate ground and surface water during rain or when a water table is present that may occur Hydrostic problems. In my opinion, below ground basement wall waterproofing whether it is masonry block, brick or concrete should be with a cement-based product. There are mainly only two cementitious membrane systems available in Australia, chemical capillary waterproofing systems such as Xypex, Penetron 18

19 and Aquafin, Acrylic/polymer modified systems such as Mapelastic Foundation or Gripset C-1P. BEST PRODUCTS FOR BASEMENT CONCRETE AND MASONRY WALLS Modified Acrylic/polymer cementitious membrane systems are effective in both positive and negative situations and become an integral part of the concrete substrate. BEST PICKS ARE AS FOLLOWS; 1. Mapelastic Foundation. POSITIVES Can be applied to a damp substrate Tenacious bond to concrete & masonry Can be reinforced with mesh Positive and negative Installations Have a DFT of 2mm Handle damp and wet cycles Semi-flexible 15mt head negative pressure NEGATIVES Limited movement capabilities Mixing required on the job Curing issues in warm weather Hairline cracking in junctions Do not work well with Polyurethane sealants Need to be weighed on site 2. Gripset C-1P Single part mixed with water Tenacious bond to concrete & masonry UV stable Can be reinforced with mesh Potable water Have a DFT of 1.5mm to 2.5mm Handle damp and wet cycles Mixing required on-site Curing issues in warm weather Limited movement capabilities 21 days for full immersion in water Hairline cracking in junctions May need to be primed 15mt head of negative pressure 19

20 RETAINING WALLS As I have mentioned in basement waterproofing there is no waterproofing standard for retaining walls other than best practice guidelines and an understanding of waterproofing below ground. Residential waterproofing is no different to commercial waterproofing other than most residential builders do not recognize or understand the waterproofing standards that are presented in the National Building code of Australia. The residential market is crowded with one-man bands, tilers who consider themselves to be waterproof contractors, and builders who need to save money and install the waterproofing themselves. Most retaining walls are constructed with masonry blocks which are reinforced with steel reo-bars and corefilled. These masonary walls in my opinion fall into two categories; 1. Critical masonry walls constructed below ground in a car basement area, living or garage areas, or areas used for storage. 2. Noncritical masonry walls above ground that are separating two properties by a pathway, masonry walls that need to be rendered or painted. SLAB EDGE DAMPNESS These masonry block walls will need to be waterproofed just like commercial basement block walls, making sure to waterproof the entire footing as to eliminate slab edge dampness. Poor site drainage or stormwater discharge which allows water to pond against the slab/footing will have an effect if the membrane is not returned down the face of the footing, even soil adjacent to the slab/footing which is damp or wet will again cause slab edge dampness. Inadequate waterproofing or drainage in these critical areas will cause moisture to ingress behind a poorly installed drainage or membrane system. 20

21 INCORRECT WATERPROOFING CORRECT WATERPROOFING 21

22 In most cases footing and block walls will be damp so a membrane system designed for this installation is a cement-based waterproofing membrane system such as Mapelastic Foundation, or Gripset C-1P. Polyurethane membrane systems below ground should be primed with an epoxy primer making sure the primer extends past the finished membrane system as not to allow moisture to capillary under the polyurethane membrane causing the membrane to delaminate. POLYURETHANE MEMBRANES DO NOT LIKE MOISTURE OR DAMP FOOTING. Bitumen membranes or bitumen emulsions can be installed on a damp surface, but in most cases will need 5-7 days curing before backfilling is allowed. MY OPINION, ALWAYS USE A MODIFIED ACRYLIC POLYMER CEMENT-BASED MEMBRANE SYSTEM. ONLY THE WISEST AND STUPIDEST OF MEN NEVER CHANGE. -CONFUCIUS PROTECTION It is critical that All waterproofing membrane systems installed below ground level shall be protected from the dangers of backfilling materials which may contain sharp objects that may damage or penetrate the membrane system. In times past a strong geofabric was used to protect membranes below ground, then the rise of PP coreflute which is mainly 3mm thick with a weight of between gsm. Envirotech has Prodrain as we don t recommend PP Coreflute boards as they sweat between membrane and PP Coreflute which may cause issues with the membrane system chosen BETTER PROTECTION PROPERTIES. For better protection and drainage benchmarks, Prodrain or Gutterbeta is also available from Envirotech. 22

23 RECOMMENDED RETAINING WALL MEMBRANES Critical retaining walls Mapelastic Foundation Mapelastic Smart Gripset C1P Bostik Dampsheild PU Multiply layer torch applied bitumen membranes Noncritical retaining walls Mapei Plastimul Gripset C1P Mapelastic Smart Plastimul MEMBRANE PROTECTION & DRAINAGE In all cases the protection of the membrane system has been just as critical as the membrane itself. If clean backfill is to be used, Prodrain is recommended as We don t recommend PP Coreflute boards as they sweat between membrane and PP Coreflute which may cause issues with the membrane system chosen Gravel, rock or uncleaned fill the membrane should be covered with a more robust protection such as Guttabeta drainage or Prodrain drainage to protect the membrane system from penetration or sharp objects. 23

24 CORRECT DRAINAGE INSTALLATION It is critical that all drainage systems be installed to best practices as below; AGGIE DRAIN. Must be installed below the footing as below; 24

25 GUTTABETA & PRODRAIN INSTALLATION 25

26 NON-CRITICAL RETAINING WALLS These retaining walls are constructed of masonry block which need to be waterproofed to prevent chemical and pollution attack. The non-critical retaining wall is mostly above ground level, but may act as a retainer on one side and left exposed on the other side. When concrete or masonry is left exposed it suffers from our weather which is called carbonation. Carbonation attacks and deteriorates concrete as water mixed with pollutants in the air called carbon dioxide. This phenomenon decreases the alkalinity within concrete and as steel reinforcement relies on the protection of high alkalinity that comes from the concrete, once the alkalinity is reduced by carbon acid, concrete and steel will start to deteriorate. The retaining wall must be waterproofed on the side backfilling is to take place as to minimize water penetration through to the exposed wall that may be rendered or painted. This membrane system is classified as non-critical, so a more inexpensive membrane system may be applied such as Mapei Plastimul, Mapelastic Smart, or Gripset C-1P. Protection of the membrane is still required and an Aggie drain installed to minimize water behind the wall. On the open side of the wall it is always best to waterproof before applying the render coat as renders tend to crack due to thermal movement. We must install a membrane system that will be compatible with the renders coating that is to be applied after membrane installation. Rockcote or Active Building Systems have a complete and guaranteed system which will render and waterproof the wall. It is imperative that the top of the walls is waterproofed with the render coat falling towards the soil. 26

27 BELOW GROUND TILT PANEL WATERPROOFING Tilt panel waterproofing below ground level has two flaws, the vertical joints and the horizontal joints. As the panels are usually erected on the slab or on a cast bed, the best waterproofing solution is with a self-adhesive sheet membrane system such as Bituthene We are aware that some tilt panel constructions are installed onto piers which makes it impossible to efficiently waterproof the wall/floor junctions due to an unstable substrate. TILT PANEL WATERPROOFING AS WRITTEN. Cut all panels shims flush Clean all surfaces to be waterproofed by 4000-psi water-blaster. Install Mapei T40 non-shrink grout to the base of the panels to cove and fill voids at a 45º angle and smooth. Install Neoferma gasket to correct depth. Install a closed cell backer rod to correct depth. Install Soudal MS-35 sealant and tool off smooth. Allow to cure 24 hours. Prime all areas with Bituthene primer and allow curing. Install a 200mm wide strip of Bituthene 3000 and install over T40 cove. Install Bituthene 3000 from the base of the footing and 300mm to face of tilt panel. Install a 200mm wide strip of Bituthene 3000 to vertical joints starting from the bottom to seal. Roll all lap joints with a hand held steel roller to compress sheet joints. Install Bituthene 3000 to rest of the walls. Compress all laps joints with steel roller. Mastic all cut edges with Bituthene mastic and smooth. Protect membrane with protection as recommended. 27

28 28

29 VERTICLE JOINT DETAIL WITH NEOFERMA GASKET. 29

30 PODIUM AREA WATERPROOFING Concrete podium areas experience water ingress from areas such as; Expansion joints, crackings due to expansion and contraction, crane base cold joints, drainage and service penetrations, planter boxes located on podium slabs, and perimeter and separation walls. In all cases the waterproofing membrane is installed to the main substrate which in some case can be quite sizable. In the late 80`s and 90`s hot-roll and pour where the chosen membrane system and even with todays technology in waterproofing products, this is still the best membrane system for podium surfaces. Today we have three possible membrane applications in podium areas; 1. A membrane system which has tiles directly fixed to the waterproofing membrane system. 2. A concrete topping installed directly on top of the membrane system. 3. A heavy trafficable exposed membrane system. Which ever the design, it is critical that the correct membrane system is specified, but most of all installed correctly by a competent waterproofing contractor. My opinion would be whatever the membrane system chosen, the film thickness of the membrane would be the most critical? For direct fixed tiles to the membrane system we really only have one choice, the membrane system need to be compatible with the tiling adhesive. From this membrane system we choose two quality membrane systems as follows; 1. AMI Ultraflex Rx, a urethane-acrylic reinforced membrane system is UV stable, worthy water immersion levels, excellent stress levels, and good elongation properties. 2. Enviro-Pro, an elastomeric acrylic reinforced membrane system with excellent stress levels, and good elongation properties. 30

31 AMI ULTRAFLEX RX INSTALLATION PROCEDURES V grind cracks over 2mm wide to a depth of 5mm. Clean all areas by pressure cleaning to remove all contaminants Sweep off excess water and apply AMI Taspac epoxy primer. Seal all junctions with Soudal MS-35 sealant 12mm wide and tool off smooth. Install neutral silicone to all cracks over 2mm, making sure to spread the silicone 5mm either side of the cracks and skim off with flat scraper. Allow curing for 12 hours. Reinforce all junctions and cracks over 2mm with AMI Ultraflex RX and a polyester bandage and allow to cure. Reinforce all junctions and cracks over 2mm with AMI Ultraflex RX and a polyester bandage and allow to cure. SOUDAL MS INSTALLATION PROCEDURES V grind cracks over 2mm wide to a depth of 5mm. Clean all areas by pressure cleaning to remove all contaminants Sweep off excess water and allow to dry for 2 hours. Seal all junctions with Soudal MS-35 sealant 12mm wide and tool off smooth. Install neutral silicone to all cracks over 2mm, making sure to spread the silicone 5mm either side of the cracks and skim off with flat scraper. Allow curing for 12 hours. Reinforce all junctions and cracks over 2mm with Rim-PUR MS and a polyester bandage and allow to cure. Reinforce all junctions and cracks over 2mm with AMI Ultraflex RX and a polyester bandage and allow to cure. 31

32 PODIUM SEPARATION WALLS In the old days when using hot-roll and pour methods we would always pour the hot bitumen around the reinforcement bars before the blocks were laid. Nowadays the membrane systems are just turning up the face walls to the height required. If the construction method is masonry block we need to waterproof the walls. In most cases the builder should allow for a full waterproofing package by a qualified rendering/paint manufacturer such as Granosite, Ezt-cote or Rockcote as they have a complete system which includes, priming, rendering and painting. These systems are equally as good on concrete substrates and they are constantly used on many buildings that are subject no rendering procedures. The residential builder, however, leaves the advise to the painter, as in most cases the builder chooses the sub-contractors to perform the works that meets his qualifications hence the Building insurance scheme.. Most residential builders choose to use more masonry block, timber and blue panel for external construction, with most external balconies being constructed from fibre-cement sheeting or scyon board. With unit or townhouse developments the dividing walls are usually between units and mostly made from blue-board or masonry block so waterproofing the outside walls is essential especially if the areas are over living areas. FAILURE IS SIMPLE THE OPPORTUNITY TO BEGIN AGAIN, THIS TIME MORE INTELLIGENTLY. -HENRY FORD 32

33 PODIUM WATERPROOFING WITH CONCRETE TOPPING Hot-roll and pour will always be my first choice for podium areas, but times have changed and product technology has gone on from kettles and watering pots. The years of liquid membranes have brought more inexperienced people into the circle of waterproofing, and as more products are introduced into the market place the options are overwhelming. When the hot - roll and pour and sheet membrane systems controlled the waterproofing industry at least the contractors installing these systems were experienced. Even today, 25 years on, Bitumen sheet membrane systems including the best sheet membrane of all Nuralite are still found on roof tops today. For podiums the system that is above all others is the Rimseal 170 PU. Rimseal PU 170 is a single component self levelling polyurethane membrane system with a solid content of 97% a Shore A hardness of 72 and over 500% elongation. RIMSEAL PU 170 INSTALLATION V grind cracks over 2mm wide to a depth of 5mm. Clean all areas by pressure cleaning to remove all contaminants Prime all areas with Adflex WBE epoxy primer. Seal all cracks with Rimseal PUR sealant and tool off flat. Install Rimseal PUR 12mm wide to all junctions and tool off smooth. Allow 12 hours curing for maximum performance. Pre-strip all junctions and cracks with Rimseal PU-170. Apply Rimseal PU-170 by squeegee and roller to a DFT of 3mm. Install Colorpave to all upturns were finishes are to be installed. Allow 24 curing. Install polyethylene plastic as a slip sheet before placement of concrete. 33

34 PLANTER BOX WATERPROOFING Planter boxes have always been an issue for waterproofing due to poor designs and drainage systems, and root growth of plants and palms. Bitumen sheet membranes with root inhibitors have long been driven by manufacturers, but sheet laps are still the lightest level of entry for roots. I have seen many excavated planter boxes and in most cases the roots have made their way through the polyurethane coves installed when applying liquid membranes, and through the sheet joints in sheet membranes. In my opinion the membrane system for planter boxes should be monolithic, be able to withstand full submerged water, be cementitous as to handle increasing PH in garden soils, have positive and negative properties, and be able to be compatible with renders and other finishes. In my opinion we have two products that are capable of waterproofing planter boxes which I believe will give better performance with a much longer durability than most other membrane systems on the market. Mapelastic Smart and Gripset C-1P are both cement-based products with outstanding performance criteria for planter boxes. Planter box drainage is also critical in planter boxes as to allow the plant life to live within that space as to make sure they obtain sufficient water to survive. With this in mind protecting the membrane from damage and installing the perfect drainage system has never been easier as below; I prefer to have the planter box floor level as topping or screeds made to falls drain water away too quickly for the plants. As we have chosen a membrane system fit for purpose, protecting the membrane walls should be a 6 mm fibre-cement sheeting, Prodrain and Gutterbeta V drainage cell installed upside down to floor areas with a prodrain on top. What this means is that water can be retained in the Gutterbeta dimples that face upwards, allowing the root systems to grow downwards to where water is stored. BEFORE GOD WE ARE ALL EQUALLY WISE-AND EQUALLY FOOLISH. -ALBERT EINSTEIN 34

35 PLANTER BOX INSTALLATION FOR MASONRY BLOCK AND CONCRETE MAPELASTIC SMART. Repair all voids or divots with mapecem Quick-patch Recess drains as to allow for puddle flange. Clean all areas to be waterproofed. Formed concrete will need to be water-blasted to remove release agents, Install Mapei Grout T40/Fast-set 50mm wide to all right-angled junctions and smooth. Install Mapelastic Smart to all junctions incorporating a polyester bandage or if possible a Mapei non-alkaline mesh. Install Soudal MS-35 sealant around the top of the drainage waste to seal cold joint between PVC and slab. Install one coat of Mapelastic smart in a circle around waste and install puddle flange flush with top of the substrate. Install Mapei Eporip epoxy to top of the puddle flange and around puddle flange and sprinkle mesh 20 dry sand into wet epoxy and slightly flatten Allow curing for 4 hours. Install two/three coats of Mapelastic Smart to all areas to be waterproofed to a DFT of 2mm. Allow curing for 48 hours before protection is installed. IMPORTANT COMMENTS All PVC penetrations which may include electrical services or lights must have Mapei Eporip epoxy with sand as a bonding primer for Mapelastic Smart. All cement-based waterproofing products are best installed to a damp substrate. We would ALWAYS recommend a 48 hour water-test be conducted in all planter boxes before filling. 35

36 GRIPSET C-1P. Repair all voids or divots with Gripset DM powder and Gripset 11y. Recess drains as to allow for puddle flange. Clean all areas to be waterproofed. Formed concrete will need to be water-blasted to remove release agents, Install Gripset DM powder mixed with 11y to form a 50mm wide cove to all right-angled junctions and smooth. Install gripset C-1P to all junctions incorporating a polyester bandage Install Gripset SB sealant around the top of the drainage waste to seal cold joint between PVC and slab. Install one coat of gripset C-1P in a circle around waste and install puddle flange flush with top of the substrate. Install Gripset P10 epoxy to top of the puddle and around puddle flange and sprinkle mesh 20, dry sand into wet epoxy and slightly flatten Allow curing for 4 hours. Install two coats of Gripset C-1P to all areas to be waterproofed to a DFT of 2mm. Allow curing for 48 hours before protection is installed. IMPORTANT COMMENTS All PVC penetrations which may include electrical services or lights must have Gripset P10 epoxy with sand as a bonding primer for Gripse C-1P. All cement-based waterproofing products are best installed to a damp substrate. We would ALWAYS recommend a 48 hour water-test be conducted in all planter boxes before filling. We don t recommend PP Coreflute boards for planter box protection as they cause sweating between the membrane and PP Coreflute. In time, this will cause small roots to be trapped or emmbed themselves between the PP coreflute and membrane which causes the roots to penetrate the membrane system. 36

37 WATER FEATURES AND PONDS Most water features installed on large unit projects are subject to the water being chemically charged with ingredients such as chlorine and Algaecides. We would recommend that all water features which have a chemical influence to be either fully tiled or completely rendered. There are chemical resistance epoxy systems on the market, but all have limited or no flexibility and are not UV stable above the water lines. We may also have an issue with hydrastic water pressures from the outside walls of the water feature or pond due to most are not waterproofed externally when installed below ground. The other concern with water features is they tend to have many penetrations such as inlets, outlets and electrical services such as lights and sprinklers. There is an old waterproofing saying within the industry, the more penetrations the more leaks. With all this in mind, we have two waterproofing systems for water features and ponds which are compatible with rendered finishes and tile adhesives. Gripset c-1p and Mapelastic Smart. MAPELASTIC SMART. Repair all voids or divots with mapecem Quick-patch Recess around all PVC penetrations to a depth of 15mm Formed concrete will need to be water-blasted to remove release agents, Install Mapelastic Smart to all perimeter junctions incorporating the Mapeband system, then install Mapeband to vertical joints last. Install Mapei Eporip epoxy as a primer to all recessed PVC penetrations and sprinkle mesh 20, dry sand into wet epoxy and slightly flatten Allow curing for 4 hours Install Mapelastic Smart in a circle around recessed PVC penetrations that have been primed with Eporip epoxy Install Mapei Quick patch around all recessed penetrations making sure to leave a 3mm recess between the PVC to finish the membrane system. 37

38 Install two coats of Mapelastic Smart to all areas to be waterproofed to a DFT of 2mm, making sure to tie membrane into 3mm recess around PVC penetrations. We would ALWAYS recommend a 48 hour water-test be conducted in all planter boxes before filling. Water feature may now be tiled or rendered to complete installation. For rendering and tiling recommendations, please contact Mapei. GRIPSET C-1P Repair all voids or divots with Gripset DM powder and Gripset 11y. Recess around all penetrations to a depth of 15mm. Formed concrete will need to be water-blasted to remove release agents, Prime PVC penetrations with Gripset P10 and sprinkle mesh 20, dry sand into the wet epoxy and slightly flatten. Install gripset C-1P to all junctions incorporating the Gripset Elastoproof systems. Install Gripset C-1P in a circle around PVC penetrations that have been primed with Gripset P10 epoxy primer Allow curing for 4 hours. Install two coats of Gripset C-1P to all areas to be waterproofed to a Dft of 2mm We would ALWAYS recommend a 24 hour water-test be conducted in all planter boxes before filling. Water feature may now be tiled or rendered to complete installation. For rendering and tiling recommendations, please contact Gripset. THE GREATEST DISCOVERY OF ALL TIME IS THAT A PERSON CAN CHANGE HIS FUTURE BY MERELY CHANGING HIS ATTITUDE -OPRAH WINFREY 38

39 AS WET AREA WATERPROOFING The most waterproofed areas of the building industry today? Wet areas are defined as follows; Bathrooms Ensuites Toilets Laundry Powder rooms Commercial kitchens may also need to be waterproofed due to health and safety regulations. With so many waterproofing membrane on the market today, undertile waterproofing can be installed by licensed waterproofing contractors, tilers, builders, bathroom renovators, and individuals who seem to think they can waterproof there own bathrooms when renovating. Wet area waterproofing has been in the QBCC TOP 10 DEFECT LIST FOR OVER 10 years, maybe longer and today nothing has changed. In my opinion tilers and builders who have not qualified for the Certification 3 in waterproofing should not be allowed to waterproof. I have seen many waterproofing products introduced into the market over the last 26 years, and basically we are almost turning full circle. HISTORY LESSON ON WET AREA MEMBRANES. When I first came onto the waterproofing industry, we only had water-based liquid applied membrane systems which had to be fully reinforced with ACI 225gsm chopped strand fibreglass mesh. Even the high-end car trafficable membrane systems where one-part Acrylic membranes reinforced with either two-layers of 225gsm fibreglass mesh or one layer of 300gsm fibreglass mesh. And guess what? We had very limited or no problems with any of these systems. The main reason being, that in the old days the contractors were more experienced because of their product knowledge as we had only to choose from a handful of waterproofing products such as 39

40 Bitumen Hot-roll and pour. Torch applied membrane systems. Spot adhered membrane called Nuralite Single-part water-based membrane systems Chopped strand fibreglass mesh. What more did we need, these products cover everything we do today. We also had a lot less waterproofing contractors in Queensland in those days not even the other trades would want to take on the hot - roll and pour or apply torch-on membrane systems, they even thought waterproofing wet areas were difficult and too time consuming to install. HOW THINGS HAVE CHANGED NOW. In the early nineties we had our first taste of cementitous two-part membranes, which we had to mix on site, was always lumpy, needed more effort to install the product, went off to quickly in warmer weather, and the issues of product wastage. We also had our first taste of using a polyurethane membrane system on The Southbank apartment project for Concrete constructions we used a black polyurethane membrane called TP60 from Pabco to install to all wet areas and planter boxes with little thought that six months later the migration from the bitumen in the TP60 would turn all the silicone in the wet areas yellow. NO MORE TP60 IN WET AREAS AFTER THAT. On to the next stage, we need a polyurethane that contains no bitumen so Pabco had the idea of ejecting a grey 600ml polyurethane sausage into a bucket, adding Xylen and mixing to form a spreadable membrane for wet areas. Worked ok, but the fumes were terrible and to think I did this for another 12 months. The age of polyurethane membranes was born, and for the next 15 years, it has been used as a one coat system for wet areas and other applications. On the last 5 years' issues have been raised by tiling contractors and tile adhesive manufacturer with the ability to cement-based products to polyurethane membranes. I think now in 2014, people are more aware that you cannot adhere anything to a polyurethane membrane, especially cement-based products even with sand broadcast into it, nor is it a one coat system. 40

41 But guess what, there is still one manufacturer stating to use a polyurethane membrane in wet areas with no primer, can be applied in one coat, and if direct fixing tiles, throw sand into the membrane. So to the average waterproofing contractor, you can throw sharp sand into one coat of wet polyurethane and this shall be waterproof. So in time we now have over 100 membranes to waterproof a wet area, so which one do we use? A polyurethane because of the one coat mentality and the speed of curing. A two-part cement-based membrane because of the curing time and the cost factor, not to mention the mixing and the wastage. SBR or elastomeric based membranes that are now reinforced with fibres as to speed the installation process, but in winter take a minimum 3 days to cure unless you use a fan. You must apply 2 coats and for best practice purposes on two separate days. Bitumen torch applied membranes 2,0mm thick, which are still being installed today in wet areas. Thin set membranes unreinforced that offer tiling in 12 hours because they have a DFT of 0.8mm but still require 2 coats. Modified acrylic polyurethane because they are tougher, dry quicker, some are unreinforced, but again must be applied in two coats. Then we have the durability testing that all membranes used in wet areas must comply with AS and with the three different classes of membranes you have to use a different size bond breaker. With all these regulations in place, most average contractors, including tilers and builders seem to be installing waterproofing as they see fit. And this is a damp shame for the people who have made waterproofing their livelihood since the late eighties early nineties. We must all abide to the rules and regulations stated in the Construction code. In my opinion all wet areas should be waterproofed on concrete or tile underlay substrates, have the Gleda angles installed in showers and doorways, have Rocktop wastes installed to all drainage points, and all showers be water-tested. 41

42 WET AREA MEMBRANE INSTALLATION With a variety of undertile waterproofing membranes on the present market I am unwilling to offer a single membrane system. I will however offer a list of single part products below which are best suited for undertile waterproofing. Ultraflex RX Flowthane Adflex Wam Fr Enviro-Pro Ardex WPM-001 (Superflex 1) Gripset 38 Other advice would be to use an MS Sealant rather than silicone or polyurethane sealants. Always reinforce upturns in main shower areas regardless of membrane systems. Never waterproof directly onto particle board or any other timber floors. Even if the flooring grade particle board meets AS/NZS most waterproofing manufacturers will state tile underlay must be installed. Always install and recess puddle flanges below floor height. Prime all areas to be waterproofed with the same manufacturer's primer, making sure to prime all PVC services with an appropriate etching primer or use a Rocktop puddle flange. The choice of membrane is also critical that we choose a membrane which has had a non-wicking fibre reinforcement installed throughout the product. SUCCESS IS WALKING FROM FAILURE TO FAILURE WITH NO LOSS OF ENTHUSIASM. -WINSTON CHURCHILL 42

43 PRIMERS Priming has also been an issue for contractors as the same questions are always asked, do we need to prime, or what primer do we use? The simple answer is EVERYTHING NEEDS TO BE PRIMED? Priming matters as it is an essential part of the installation of any waterproofing product as is promotes bond strength, seals the surface to make the substrate more stable, protects against atmospheric moisture and osmosis and ensures a much better adhesion of the membrane system. Primers are products which allow for coating and membrane systems to adhere far greater than if it the membrane or coating was installed without primers. Primers in most cases do not need to be engineered to be durable as they are overcoated with membranes, in some case primers can be engineered to have enhanced fillers or binding properties for the membrane system to work as intended so it is very important that you always use the primer recommended by the membrane manufacturer. Most water-based primers are inexpensive, BEST PRIMERS TWO-PART EPOXY PRIMERS WATER-BASED BONDING PRIMERS SUCH AS GRIPSET GP GRIPSET P10 GRIPSET OP With most contractors looking to keep costs down by not priming substrates, but priming may also help reduce the amount of membrane that may be absorbed by the substrate. WHICH IS CHEAPER? PRIMER OR MEMBRANE. 43

44 BALCONY WATERPROOFING Balcony waterproofing over the past 15 years has been an uncomfortable topic for waterproofing contractors due to some builders on the larger projects have refused to waterproof the entire balcony areas. Balconies that are constructed of fibre-cement sheeting seem to have the most concerns when it comes to providing a long lasting waterproofing solution. With all balcony construction there are three main rules that above everything all are the most important if the waterproofing is going to work as intended, falls, drainage points, and door/window threshold. The fact that concrete balconies have no joints to deal with, and fibrecement and Scyon sheeting have joints, is irrelevant to the outcome of the waterproofing. With this in mind, I shall break up the waterproofing into three subjects; 1. -Waterproofing of concrete balconies. 2. -Waterproofing fibre-cement sheet. 3. -Waterproofing Scyon/Eternit sheeting Waterproofing of concrete balconies. Most concrete balconies are situated on high rise apartments with falls created by way of a screed with Drainage usually installed on the balcony or spitters through the ballustrading hob or wall. Waterproofing here should be straight forward and personally, it does not matter if you use a class 2 or 3 membrane system. My opinion would be using a class three membrane fully reinforced with 225 fibreglass or polyester mat as this will eliminate the issues when the concrete desices to crack. The threshold at doorways or windows are waterproofed at least two months before the full balconies are waterproofed, so making sure that the membrane you choose to use has no issues binding to the cured membrane after this time. Bonding onto any membrane system after a prolonged curing time is always a weak point on the membrane system and needs to be addressed correctly. 44

45 WATERPROOFING INSTALLATION FOR MEMBRANE Lightly sand cured membrane to remove gloss and dirt Prime all areas with correct primer including sanded areas Install a 12 mm bead of MS-35 sealant and tool off smooth Reinforce all perimeters with fibreglass or polyester mat Install two-three coats of membrane to a DFT of 1.5mm Allow curing for 48 hours before tiling Waterproofing balcony with a fibre-cement sheet. Waterproofing cement sheeting SHOULD be waterproofed with a sheet membrane? Liquid applied systems will need to be done skillfully, and by a competent waterproofing contractor. There are at least six areas that command the full attention of a competent waterproofing contractor before he starts waterproofing. 1. Door thresholds 2. Falls are correct 3. Sheet joints 4. Sheet screw hole penetrations 5. Drip edge angles 6. Perimeter turn-ups 7. Balustrade or post penetrations 8. Direct fix tiles or bedded. 9. Efflorescence. With fibre-cement sheet, the secret is not about the membrane system, it is the attention to detail and the film build of the finished membrane system. The best membrane system for these types of substrates is a sheet membrane system, but the topping will have to be reinforced with mesh and be at lest 60mm thick. With fibre-cement sheeting it makes no difference if you use a class 2 or 3 membrane system, I prefer a class 2 as it is less more to get damaged when tilers are walking all over it or mixing a screed on top of the membrane. Most fibre-cement sheets fail at the sheet joints and the post penetrations. 45

46 The first item to look at is that the sheets have been installed correctly to allow for differential movement for all materials that are to be installed on the deck. If the sheet joints do not all line up in a straight line, it is then virtually impossible to use a manufacturer's rubber bandage system such as Mapeband or Gripset B50 over the joints as there will be to many lap joints in the bandage system. All manufacturers will ask for all joints to be reinforced with some type of reinforcement tape or matt. This is fine if the joints have been installed with a neutral cure silicone sealant but in most cases the sealant should be an MS sealant. In my opinion, fibre-cement sheeting decks or balconies should be waterproofed as follows; Clean and check construction method including falls and door/window thresholds. Install balcony edge drip angle, making sure to recess down 2mm Install primer such as Gripset OP primer or Gripset P10 Allow curing as recommended Install MS sealant such as Soudal MS-35 and tool off smooth Install polyester reinforcement to perimeter upturns with chosen membrane Install Gripset B10 rubber bandage system or silicone bond breaker tape over sheet joints. Apply three coats of Enviro Pro membrane to a DFT no less than 1.5mm PRIMING APPLICATION Prime substrates thoroughly by brush or roller with an appropriate primer as follows; Plastic needs to be cleaned with Acetone or primed with Gripset OP or P10 Aluminium needs to be cleaned with Acetone or primed with Gripset OP or P10 All Primers shall be left to cure as RECOMMENDED at an even coverage. Where an existing coating is present or the substrate is different, confirm with Envirotech on the appropriate primer to be used. 46

47 FLOOR SHEET JOINTS All sheet joints shall have a 10 mm closed cell backer rod installed 6 mm below the surface to allow for sealant Install MS sealant to all joints and tool off smooth, making sure not to spread sealant onto balcony surface. Allow sealant to skin for 30 minutes at a temperature of 25º DOOR/WINDOW STEP DOWNS Mechanical round all external sheet edges for membrane system. All sheet joints shall have a 10 mm closed cell backer rod installed 6 mm below the surface to allow for sealant. Install MS sealant 15 mm wide to all junctions and tool off smooth. Allow MS sealant to skins for 30 minutes at a temperature of 25. Reinforce with a polyester mat all set down to a DFT of 1.2 mm making sure the membrane system has been installed 200 mm onto balcony floor areas. PERIMETER UPTURNS Install a 12 mm cove, to all junctions with MS sealant and tool off smooth. Allow MS sealant to skin for 30 minutes at 25 Reinforce with a polyester mat all upturns to a DFT of 1.2 mm 100 mm above finished floor height. Make sure the membrane system has been installed 200 mm onto to balcony floor areas. FLOOR WASTES Floor wastes WHEN REQUIRED, SHALL BE Rock top flanges recessed to finish flush with fibre-sheeting and fixed in place with MS sealant. Install membrane system into a flange and seal with Rock top flange. 47

48 SHEET DETAILING Install Gripset/Mapei rubber bandage or Crommelin bond breaker tape to all sheet joints in a continuous run incorporating the appropriate membrane system. FIBRE SHEET POST DETAIL Make sure there is a suitable gap between the sheet and the Penetration, a minimum of 5 mm is preferred Install closed cell backer rod to a depth of 6 mm then cove around penetration with MS sealant and tool off smooth. (A 12mm cove is Preferred) Reinforce with a polyester mat all upturns to a DFT of 1.2 mm 100 mm above finished floor height. Make sure the membrane system has been installed 200 mm onto balcony floor areas. MOST FIBRE-CEMENT SHEETING BALCONIES LEAK FROM AROUND POST OR SHEET JOINTS DUE TO MOVEMENT OR INCORRECT MEMBRANE DETAILING. MEMBRANE INSTALLATION Apply one coat of waterproof membrane to floor areas, rolling sideways to the drainage outlets. Allow 24 hours drying at a temperature of 25 for the first coat to cure correctly. Apply a second coat of waterproof membrane, rolling in a straight line towards drainage outlets. DFT shall be 1.5 mm, or a third coat shall be applied after 24 hours curing at a temperature of 25º 48

49 TILE FIXING Tile adhesives should be compatible with the membrane system installed. TILE CONTROL JOINTS Shall be to James Hardy recommendations and to AS DETAIL VIEW OF BALCONY DRIP EDGE ANGLE This system is available in two profiles. 12mm for direct fixed tiling to the membrane system 27mm for tiling over a sand-cement bed 49

50 MEMBRANE RECOMMENDATIONS Ultraflex RX Flowthane Adflex Wam Fr Enviro-Pro Ardex WPM-001 (Superflex 1) Gripset 38 50

51 DETAIL DRAWIING With balcony posts there has always been confusion with how far the membrane should turn up above the height of the finished substrate. Most builders will not like to see a waterproof membrane on a timber or aluminium post due to the film thickness that is seen when the membrane cures. All balcony perimeter turnups should be waterproofed 100mm above the finished floor height, and 25mm above the finished floor height for posts and ballustrading. I also advise a 9mm fibre-cement sheet plinth installed and sealed if posts are to be fixed on top of the balcony. 51

52 WATERPROOFING BALCONY WITH SCYON SHEETING Most builders who have installed the scyon sheet system for balcony construction have made comments that it acts like an MDF board. Most waterproofing manufacturers tested the Scyon board for membrane adhesion to a variety of primers with one manufacturer saying a primer is not required. We also have a similar sheet on the market called Eternit Modubuild which is identified by a 50mm overlapping tongue and groove and Scyon being a central lock tongue and groove. For both the Scyon and Eternit boards, if the sheets are laid in a staggered layout due to the size of the deck, Waterproofing these cement sheeting systems SHOULD be with a sheet membrane? Liquid applied systems will need to be done skillfully, and by a competent waterproofing contractor. We would advise installing a sheet membrane system not a liquid applied system due to the configuration of sheet joints. In my opinion the Eternit sheeting sits and works better for waterproofing as the 50mm overlap can be fully sealed and work as a water stop before waterproofing. PRIMING APPLICATION Prime substrates thoroughly by brush or roller with the appropriate primer as follows: Gripset OP or P10 primer Plastic needs to be primed with Gripset OP or P10 Aluminium needs to be primed with Gripset OP or P10 All Primers shall be left to cure as per recommended data sheets. Where an existing coating is present or the substrate is different, confirm with Enviro-Tech on the appropriate primer to be used. FLOOR SHEET JOINTS Make sure all sheet joints are joint sealed tightly with no spread of sealant on the Scyon boards with MS sealant and tooled off smooth. 52

53 Install Gripset B10 rubber bandage or Crommelin bond breaker tape continuously to all sheet joints incorporating the waterproofing membrane system. DOOR/WINDOW STEP DOWNS Mechanical round all external sheet edges for membrane system. Install MS flexible sealant 15 mm wide to all junctions and tool off smooth. Reinforce with a polyester mat all set down to a DFT of 1.2 mm making sure the membrane system has been installed 200 mm onto balcony floor areas. PERIMETER UPTURNS Install MS sealant 15 mm cove, to all junctions and tool off smooth. Reinforce with A polyester mat to all upturns to a DFT of 1.2 mm and 100 mm above the finished floor height or 25 mm above water line. Make sure the membrane system has been installed 200 mm onto to balcony floor areas. MEMBRANE INSTALLATION Apply one coat of Enviro Pro water-based membrane to floor areas, rolling sideways to the drainage outlets. Allow a minimum 24 hours drying at a temperature of 25 longer in colder temperatures. Apply a second coat of waterproof membrane, rolling in a straight line too drainage outlets. DFT shall be 1.5 mm, or a third coat shall be applied after 24 hours curing. FIBRE SHEET POST DETAIL Make sure there is a suitable gap between the sheeting and the penetration, a minimum of 5 mm is preferred Install closed cell backer rod to a depth of 6 mm then cove around penetration with MS sealant and tool off smooth. (A 12mm cove is 53

54 preferred) Reinforce with a polyester mat all upturns to a DFT of 1.2 mm 100 mm above the finished floor height or 25 mm above water line. Make sure the membrane system has been installed 200 mm onto balcony floor areas. MOST FIBRE-CEMENT SHEET BALCONIES LEAK FROM AROUND POST AND SHEET JOINTS DUE TO MOVEMENT OR INCORRECT MEMBRANE DETAILING. TILE FIXING Tile adhesives should be compatible with the membrane system installed. TILE JOINTS Shall be to James Hardy recommendations and to AS MEMBRANE RECOMMENDATIONS Ultraflex RX Flowthane Adflex Wam Fr Enviro-Pro Ardex WPM-001 (Superflex 1) Gripset 38 Aquadefence 54

55 WATERPROOFING BALCONY WITH ETERNIT SHEETING The Eternit system flooring is an 18mm cement bound matrix board consisting of silicate laminated together with a 50mm overlapping system to allow for modular continuity. There are two Eternit boards available on the market in Queensland, one which has a smooth and rough surface, and one with the surface smooth on both sides. Envirotech again would recommend a sheet system to be installed as the sheeting is staggered due to the joint configuration. Envirotech has performed testing, which included a pull of test with an IP65 Defelsko adhesion tester to achieve the optimum waterproofing system that complies with AS and AS for the Eternit boards. On either board the system for waterproofing is as follows; Clean and remove all contaminants and sharp objects. Prime all areas with Gripset P10 Install a 12mm MS sealant to all junctions to form bond breakers Install MS sealant to 5mm by 5mm to lap joints, making sure to install a 5mm bond breaker tape before applying sealant. Apply Enviro-Pro waterproofing to all Upstands incorporating a polyester mat. Install Gripset B10 rubber bandage or Crommelin bond breaker tape continuously to all sheet joints incorporating the Enviro-Pro waterproofing system. MEMBRANE INSTALLATION Apply one coat of Enviro Pro water-based membrane to floor areas, rolling sideways to the drainage outlets or falls. Allow a minimum 24 hours drying at a temperature of 25, longer in colder temperatures. Apply a second coat of waterproof membrane, rolling in a straight line too drainage outlets or falls. DFT shall be 1.5 mm, or a third coat shall be applied to falls after 24 hours curing 55

56 ROOF WATERPROOFING All waterproofing is significant, but waterproofing roof areas are by far the most critical area of the building. We have seven main roofing systems in Queensland; 1. Roof areas that are waterproof and tiled 2. Trafficable roofs with exposed trafficable membranes 3. Green roofs 4. Light trafficable exposed Roof areas 5. Exposed roof areas for maintenance traffic 6. IRMA Roofs (Inverted roof membrane assembly) 7. Warm roofs In all cases we have to achieve the best suited membrane system that is available on the market today. In my opinion, a sheet membrane system has always out performed liquid membranes so I would always choose a three layered bitumen membrane system over any other sheet membrane system on the market. WHY WOULD YOU INSTALL A SINGLE PLY SHEET MEMBRANE SYSTEM ON A ROOF? It's like liquid applied membranes going from a DFT of 1-15mm down to 0.08mm Roof areas that are waterproof and tiled We would advise the compatible primer, and a membrane system that contains no reinforcement, has over 300% elongation, has at least 10 plus years in the field and is fully compatible with the appropriate tile adhesive. This is where the likes of Ardex, Mapei, and Gripset have a complete system to assist the builder because they have a complete waterproofing and tiling system in their range of products so this would make sense. We would also recommend that the membrane system be fully reinforced with polyester on roof areas that are tiled and are in full sun to achieve a full DFT of at least 1.5mm 56

57 With so many undertile waterproof membranes on the market, my preference would be as follows; Gripset 38/RD (NO FIBRE) Enviro Pro (NO FIBRE) Ardex WPM 155 (NO FIBRE) Ultraflex (NO FIBRE) We would also advise a four coat system which includes a primer coat and three coats of membrane incorporating a polyester mat. Liquid exposed light trafficable roof areas In the old day trafficable roof areas where Acrylic membranes fully reinforced with 225gsm chopped strand fibreglass with most still in service today. With the inflow of fibreglass from overseas, the issues that are present now is trapped moisture between the strands of fibreglass causing blistering of the finished membrane. We would recommend a four coat system fully reinforced with a polyester mat if membrane systems are to be left fully exposed. Recommended exposed membrane systems as follows; Ultraflex (NO FIBRE) Gripset RD (NO FIBRE) Ardex WPM 908 (NO FIBRE) Enviro Pro UV (NO FIBRE) Adfle PU 170 systems Exposed roof areas for maintenance traffic only For many years roof areas have been waterproofed with bitumen membranes and in Europe alone, there are more than 20 different trade names for APP modified Bitumenans and 15 for SBS bitumen products. This is a ridiculous number of different brands of modified bitumen rolls so the market does suggest a very popular membrane system that still has enormous growth and popularity. All exposed Bitumen torch applied membrane systems should be at least three layers consisting of a vent, a mid layer, and the capping layer. 57

58 There are good bitumen sheet membranes on the market in Australia and there are poor bitumen sheet membranes. Contractors rely on the manufacturers hearsay if they do not understand the data sheet so only the experienced contractors may look at the softness of a membrane (ring and ball test), or if the membrane contains a high amount of fillers. Good quality APP membranes do not have much discoloration or brown staining and look much better after 12 months of weathering, I shall conclude with the following recommendation, only use materials whose quality has been controlled independently or delivered under quality controlled assurances such as De-Boer, Ardex or Parchem. There are other roofing membranes in Queensland such as TPO (Thermoplastic PolyOlefin), Butynol (Rubber Technology Morton) and Sarnafil PVC (polyvinyl chloride). We have also observed some manufacturers choosing to use these membranes in areas other than what they are designed for, such as lift pits, planter boxes, and podium areas. WE EMBRACE NEW MEMBRANE TECHNOLOGY IF IT BENEFITS OUR INDUSTRY, BUT I ASK THE QUESTION? DO MANUFACTURERS OVERLOOK WHAT IS BEST FOR OUR INDUSTRY, OR WHAT IS BEST FOR THEMSELVES! YOU BE THE JUDGE? In my opinion, I would never use a single ply waterproofing membrane system on a roof. WHY? Single layer up to 2mm Difficult to install Difficult to repair Issues with blister from vapours Easy to puncture Shrink during aging, especially in QLD 58

59 High life cycle cost Limited foot traffic and gets very slippery underfoot Chemical attacks Mechanical failure from fixing Pictures below of roofing failures; SINGLE PLY CHEMICAL ATTACK 59

60 DELAMINATED LAP TORN SHEET DUE TO EXPANSION 60

61 PENETRATION FROM DAMAGE RUPTURED LAP CAUSED BY EXPANSION 61

62 POOR TPO DETAILING 62

63 THREE LAYER TORCH APPLIED MEMBRANE SYSTEM Advantages are; Multi layered Existing technology High tensile strength Low temperature flex Easy to repair Easy to overlay Many configurations Looks neat and tidy Good weathering Goodpuncturee resistance 63

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66 IRMA ROOFS The IRMA roofing system is a patented system from the early 70`s and has been used with single and multiply bitumen membrane systems. The IRMA system is designed with extruded polystyrene insulation boards and then covered with mm of washed river gravel. We also have the situation were the extruded polystyrene is installed on the substrate and then the membrane system installed on top of the polystyrene, (warm roof) this can only be achieved if there is sufficient falls as water laying on the roof will heat up and may cause expansion and contraction on the laps, and temperature, humidity and moisture can affect the system greatly. 66

67 GREEN ROOFS Green roof technology has been around since the early seventies and was first developed in Germany. The advantages of green roof technology are as follows; Long life span up to 60 years Reduce energy costs Good thermal heating Good storm water and water management Increases air quality Reduces noise Provide a green space and environment This system works best with a multi layered torch applied bitumen membrane system with the only disadvantage being controlling the root growth. IT TAKES COURAGE TO GROW UP AND TURN OUT TO BE WHO YOU REALLY ARE -E. E. Cumming 67

68 INJECTION WATERPROOFING INJECTION FACTS History A company called Bayer about the time WWII finished developed polyurethanes in Germany; their uses were to insulate High altitude bombers during night trips over Britain. As time progressed more applications were found in this new material, which could be made into foams, and sheet material for an array of applications. The material reached the U.S. in the seventies and Bayer sought to use its properties that had proven useful in Coal Mining in Germany to assist their efforts to find a suitable repair medium for tunnels that had fallen behind in maintenance. One of the most prominent industries chosen for use was mining and the product was used for ground and water sealing applications. Through the next 20 years polyurethane became the material for ground and water sealing, to the point where in 2011 polyurethane is still the preferred method for injection. DEFINITIONS Single component versus Dual Component Urethanes Single component urethanes react with water by pulling an OH molecule of an H2O water molecule during the reaction process. This takes time; so most competitors offer a separate catalyst to make this reaction happen must faster. This means they really aren t a single component, as the separate catalyst must be mixed with part B before use. Rim seal S has the catalyst pre mixed so it is a true single component urethane that reacts in 30 seconds, faster than nearly all other products on the market. Dual component urethane is a binary system, part A the chemical side and the catalyst part B, they do not react with water, but with each other, allowing for a faster gel time with a much greater certainty about the composition of the mixed product over a single component system which is much slower. Rim seal S has a catalyst, but can also be used without. 68

69 Hydrophobic versus hydrophilic polyurethanes Hydrophobic Urethanes don t like water, they push water away during their reaction and once this reaction occurs, the urethane does not absorb the water so the shrinkage of hydrophobic urethanes is minimal or zero. Hydrophobic urethanes cure to form rigid or open cell foam that has a much higher expansion rate, sometimes up to 3000%. The contact with water starts the reaction, which pushes water away during the reaction so water cannot absorb into the urethane and is forced back through the cracks and deep into the concrete micro-fractures. When these concrete micro-fractures are filled with water, the hydrophobic urethane can t flow through and establish a bond with the concrete. When the hydrophobic urethane cures, it becomes a rigid foam, which is unable to re-expand to its original size after it is has been compressed, so any thermal movement or substrate pressures will cause the urethane to break away from the concrete because of its poor bonding and make the crack leak again. Hydrophilic Urethanes must have water to react as part of their reaction, so as long as the Hydrophilic Urethane remains in contact with water, they will not shrink. Hydrophilic urethanes have two properties, which make the hydrophilic urethane best suited for stopping water leaks in small cracks. The first is they get a remarkable bond to concrete by reacting and absorbing the water within the crack and micro-fractures in the concrete. As hydrophilic grouts cure, they form a tight flexible seal that will expand and contract as pressure or temperature changes within the crack. Once the water dries up the Hydrophilic Urethane will dry out and shrink until water is reintroduced, then it will re-expand, but not to its original extent as before, that s why it will re-leak. Hydrophilic are less viscous simply react with water without a catalyst. Rim seal products are pre-catalysed and perform much better than any hydrophilic grouts because they are hydrophobic and require zero catalyst. Viscosity can be adjusted by simply warming and cooling the product before the injection process. 69

70 (TDI) Toluene Diisocyanates against MDI Methyl Diisocyanates We know that there are the two different main components of urethane products for injection, all Rim seal products are MDI based, but others on the market still use TDI based products which are unpleasant to use as they give off carcinogen hazardous vapours. There is really no difference between TDI or MDI products so it would be advisable to use our Rim seal MDI based urethanes are they are much safer to work with. Reaction Time This is really meant how long it takes for the urethane to foam after it is injected. Reaction time is mainly based on temperature and pressure, as the reaction time is slower when it is colder and faster when it is warmer. Most urethanes on the market say they should be installed around 70 degrees F which brings the best out of the product. Rim seal S reacts in 30 seconds and Rim seal S reacts in 1 to 3 seconds. Solid Content This is a measure the solid content as other use filler such as calcium carbonate which can be abrasive to the equipment. Rim seal products are 100% solids, Rim seal 4000, sets in 50 seconds with 100% solid density. Weather Conditions Cold substrates will cause an increase in the viscosity of all injectable products including epoxy as it will slow down the rate of injection. Hot substrates will cause premature jelling of the injection, meaning loss of penetration. Hot or cold surfaces will have an effect on the injection procedure, so make sure to allow for hot and cold temperatures. MY OPINION IS THAT WE SHOULD INJECT WITH A HYDROPHILIC, THEN BACK UP WITH A HYDROPHOBIC GROUT TO SEAL THE CRACKS COMPLETELY. 70

71 Rimseal injection products are proprietary blends developed and tested in the field. The Rim seal injection product line numbers just three, which are of a high quality, and very versatile for each application. Rim seal 1000 is a single part soft foaming, low viscosity hydrophilic resin with high adhesion properties and NO shrinkage if mixed with water. Rim seal 3000 is a single part, high- elastic half rigid hydrophilic resin that has NO shrinkage even when water is not present. Rim seal 4000 is a fast setting half rigid closed-cell hydrophobic resin with NO shrinkage even when water id not present. With quality comes service. With highly experienced field operators, we offer the best technical support in our industry, with up to date information available on the Rim seal website to provide common sense guidance for any situation. Urethane/Resin based injection grouts verses Epoxy injection grouts In Queensland most people inject cracks with flexible grouts because that s all they know? What people don t understand is that when the concrete cracks it becomes structural or weakness of the concrete, but not in a major way as nearly all concrete will crack. Some of these cracks can be injected with epoxy resins, as they will recover concrete strength and give good steel corrosion resistance. URETHANE INJECTION PROCEDURES The preparation and installation procedures are just as critical as choosing the correct product to inject into surface cracks. As we know most cracks in basements will show signs of weeping water, causing heavy mineral deposits to form along cracks and in the cracks so cleaning the cracks before injecting is critical for the injection system to work. Make sure site conditions are safe for product installation. Prepare work areas by barricades, drop sheets and signage etc. Drill holes on opposing side of the fracture in an alternating pattern approximately 45-degree angles to intersect the crack at about half the depth of the fracture. 71

72 Spacing of packers is subject to the size of the fracture. Vacuum or air blow drill holes to remove all drill waste from holes to ensure the packer has a strong bond. Install packers and tighten to form a strong bond, and prepare injection equipment. 10 mm injection packers are best suited as not to stress concrete; 13 mm packers will stress concrete due to drilling vibration. Inject clean water with phosphoric acid through packers to flush all mineral residues from areas to be injected. Flush clean water through packers to remove all acid residues. Start the injection process at the lowest packer and inject material till the resin reaches the next packer. Continue injection process to all packers making sure to move back and re-inject packers to fill cracks. The mix ratio of water to resin is important to achieve maximum effectiveness for the injection grout to work correctly in the crack. Remember; the temperature of the water and the injection resin can control the reaction speed of the gel time. Once materials cure packers can be removed and plugged with a waterproof, non-shrink grout. Excess materials can be cleaned up and disposed of in accordance with state regulations. Flush and clean all equipment with Gun wash, or suitable cleaner, and flush with motor oil if required. EPOXY INJECTION Epoxy injection systems have been around a long time, and is a system for welding, concrete together to give back some of its strength and loading capabilities in the original design. 72

73 Repairing cracks in concrete by epoxy injection can restore the structural qualities of the concrete and seals the crack to eliminate contamination of reinforcement bars from water and air. The reinforcement bar is a key element in the structural value of concrete and if left unrepaired, this will allow moisture to penetrate into the crack, causing the reinforcement steel to corrode which will cause the concrete to loos structural value. Repairing these cracks in concrete is quite simple, as epoxy injection will seal the crack, but will not repair the cause of the crack. There are ways to analyze if cracks are live by using crack sliders, or consulting a structural Engineer as preventing future cracking we need to find out the cause of the cracking. Epoxy injection has two purposes; it effectively seals the crack to prevent moisture ingress, and also monolithically welds the structure together. The most important thing to achieve is the sealing of the crack not he welding of the crack as if we keep moisture out, we prevent deterioration of the reinforcement steel which binds the concrete structure together. Rim seal has epoxy injection products including crack slides to help you inject the correct products into concrete cracks. Why Rim seal Products for epoxy sealing Solutions Why choose Rim seal epoxy injection over competing products in the market place? It must start with quality. Rim seal products are proprietary blends developed and tested in the field. The Rim seal epoxy injection product line numbers just four, which are of a high quality, and very versatile for each application. Rim seal 150 is a two part low viscosity, high adhesive strength epoxy for fine cracks which aids in concrete recovery. Rim seal 207 is a two part, high mechanical strength epoxy putty for injection and binding steel and cement. Rim seal 002 is a two-part high elastic high strength epoxy injection system for vibration. 73

74 Rim seal 200 is a two-part, low viscosity superior strength epoxy for damp or wet cracks. With quality comes service. With highly experienced field operators, we offer the best technical support in our industry, with up to date information available on the Rim seal website to provide common sense guidance for any situation. EPOXY INJECTION PROCEDURES Make sure site conditions are safe for product installation. Prepare work areas by barricades, drop sheets and signage etc. Drill holes on opposing side of the fracture in an alternating pattern approximately 45-degree angles to intersect the crack at about half the depth of the fracture. Spacing of ports is subject to the size of the fracture and thickness of concrete. Mechanical grind concrete 100 mm either side of the work area to clean surface substrate for epoxy paste. Remove all drill waste from crack and drill holes by air pressure or vacuum suction. Install ports directly over the crack with Rim seal 207 epoxy paste between 4 and 8 inches. Completely seal off the crack area between ports with Rim seal 207 and smooth off Allow epoxy to cure for 24 hours. Inject Rim seal epoxy into ports, making sure to limit PSI to around 50 PSI AS NOT TO STRESS THE CRACK. EPOXY INJECTION PROCEDURES The preparation and installation procedures are just as critical as choosing the correct product to inject into surface cracks. As we know most cracks in basements will show signs of weeping water, causing heavy mineral deposits to form along cracks, and in the cracks, so cleaning the cracks before injecting is critical for the injection system to work.] 74

75 SITE CONDITIONS Make sure site conditions are safe for product installation. Prepare work areas by barricades, drop sheets and signage etc. Drill holes on opposing side of the fracture in an alternating pattern approximately 45-degree angles to intersect the crack at about half the depth of the fracture. Spacing of packers is subject to the size of the fracture. Flush drill holes to remove all drill waste from holes to ensure the packer has a strong bond. Install packers and tighten to form a strong bond, and prepare injection equipment. Inject clean water with phosphoric acid through packers to flush all mineral residues from areas to be injected. Flush clean water through packers to remove all acid residues. Start the injection process at the lowest packer and inject material till the resin reaches the next packer. Continue injection process to all packers making sure to move back and re-inject packers to fill cracks NEGATIVE SIDE WATERPROOFING Negative side waterproofing is a waterproofing membrane that may be used on the negative side of the wall to eliminate water ingress. Water does have an effect on concrete and if the concrete was waterproof and corrosion proof the industry would no longer have the need for 75

76 waterproofing membranes, coating or admixtures. Concrete has capillaries which trap moisture and water and it is a duty of care of the builder to make sure were possible to waterproof concrete. The waterproofing of concrete on the negative side the waterproof membrane must be mineral based (cement-based) to obtain the same characteristics as the substrate to become one. The membrane should offer some form of penetration as to adhere if hydrostatic pressure builds behind the wall. Must be open to vapour diffusion so water vapour can penetrate the membrane, and most of all free from chlorides. And of cause the membrane or coating must be able to withstand hydrostatic pressure. The other problem that occurs in negative side waterproofing is that all concrete contain salts, and if sea water is present more salts. Salts can become a problem as they are water soluble and can capillary through the concrete matrix or through cracks in the concrete. As water evaporates salts are left behind to form crystals which expand almost double their size, which then can, and will, push through or off many negative side waterproofing products. In this case the negative membrane system must be made of polymers and silicates which penetrate into the concrete matrix reducing the size of the concrete pores thus reducing salt efflorescence. We can see a lot must happen when we advise the client when installing negative side water In my opinion negative side waterproofing should be installed by experienced and competent waterproofing contractors and applied as per the recommended system below; PROGRESS IS IMPOSSIBLE WITHOUT CHANGE, AND THOSE WHO CANNOT CHANGE THEIR MINDS CANNOT CHANGE ANYTHING -GEORGE BERNARD SHAW 76

77 NEGATIVE SIDE WATERPROOFING ON CONCRETE SURFACES Saw cut or needle punch concrete to wall/floor junction to 50mm wide for water-stop fillet. Wash walls down by high pressure water-blasting 3000 psi Sweep away all surface water Apply by low pressure spray EP waterproofing system Allow curing for 4-5 days Apply Mapei T40 grout 50mm wide to wall/floor junction and tool off smooth Apply first coat of Mapei Foundation or Gripset C-1P as a slurry coat making sure to incorporate a polyester mat Allow to tack off Apply a further two coats of Foundation or C-1P chosen to a DFT no less than 2.0 to 2.5m 77

78 JOINT SEALING Sealant materials are the most extensively used waterproofing products used today, but the most incorrectly used product. There are many types of sealants on the market today which includes, Acrylic, silicone, polyurethane, polysulphides, Butyl, epoxy, and MS sealant. Joint sealing is used as a finished product or a waterproofing barrier before waterproofing such as bond breakers. Just about every construction project in Australia has some sort of sealant installed to prevent water penetration. The three areas referred to in joint sealant are caulking, sealants, and glazing. CAULKING- is a filler like no-more gaps which are mainly used for inside works by painters. These materials have limited performance and expansion properties and are usually painted over. SEALANTS- have higher performance characteristics of expansion joint and tilt panel construction which are available in a low modulus and a high modulus. GLAZING- are mainly silicones and because they have a high tensile strength with lower elongation properties, they are mainly used in window and glass installations that require less movement. Everyone who has installed sealants think they are just filling a gap or sealing around fixtures, improper installations will lead to failures. The key steps are, joint preparation, priming of the joint, bond-breaker tape or backing rod, applying and tooling off. Like waterproofing the most important step, is preparation SUCCESS IS NEVER FINAL. FAILURE IS NEVER FATAL. ITS COURAGE THAT COUNTS -BRUCE LEE 78

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81 IDENTIFYING JOINTS The main jointing terminology used in the construction industry is as follows; Construction joint. Isolation joint Control joint Expansion joint Saw joints. Construction joints, are used for construction sequences as to allow for the next concrete pour to take place. Isolation joints, isolate a slab from something else, (IE columns) Control joints, are used to reduce shrinkage and control cracking. Expansion or movement joints, are designed to accommodate expansion and contraction of the substrate Saw cuts, to control cracking in concrete. Joints are based on resistance, configurations, formation, locations, type of structure, and function. There is no sealant on the market perfect for all jointing applications so it is a critical aspect of the job to make sure the correct sealant is installed to accommodate the movement of the joint. Property MS Polymer Polyurethane Silicone Environmental friendliness Non-bubbling Low temperature gun ability Slump resistance Quick cure Storage stability Body (tooling) Weather resistance Adhesion to various substrates Mechanical properties Heat resistance, mechanical stability Non-dirt pickup Stain resistance Paint's ability with water-based paint Construction Sealant Performance Comparison 81

82 IMPORTANT TECHNICAL INFORMATION ELONGATION OF MEMBRANES The elongation of membranes has been a key factor with contractors when choosing a waterproofing product. Most contractors are not aware that membrane systems on the market today have to meet a classification under AS which was put in place to test the performance of the membrane for elasticity,tensile strength, vapour transmission and chemical attack. For years we used Acrylic membranes reinforced with 225 gsm fibreglass with no issues other than workmanship, wet seal Australia used a rigid resin-based product for wet areas for many years with the only concern being drummy screeds. Now we have membranes that are broken into classifications ranging from class 1 to class 3. This does not mean we are not allowed to use a class 1 membrane in a wet area, its because these membranes have a flexible range below 65% so a bond breaker between 100mm and 75mm has to be installed. Class 2 membranes must have a flexible range between 65% and 200%, which means the bond breaker needs to be around 35mm to allow for 5mm of movement. Class 3 membranes must have a flexible range over 300% so most do not need a bond breaker but 12mm is acceptable. Most of the membranes being installed today for wet area waterproofing are latex-based, polyurethane-based and two-part polymer-based systems with a few contractors installing bitumen sheet membranes. So I presume these membranes all passed when AS was introduced to the market, but what about NOW. The flexibility and elasticity of a waterproofing membrane when fully bonded to a substrate will start to feel the different stresses that are bestowed on these membranes such as thermal expansion, lateral flexing and restricted and unrestricted movement of the membrane system. IN MY OPINION, A SHEET MEMBRANE SYSTEM SHALL ALWAYS OUT PERFORM A LIQUID APPLIED MEMBRANE SYSTEM. 82

83 When a flexible membrane is bonded to a substrate, there is no flexibility of the membrane system due to its fully bonding to the substrate. So if the membrane has 500% elongation when not restricted, when the membrane is fully bonded to a substrate and the membrane becomes restricted, the membranes 500% elongation becomes zero, no movement at all as it is fully bonded? In my opinion, All liquid applied monolithic membrane systems that exist on the market today should have a MINIMUM DFT requirement as follows; AREA LIFT PITS BASEMENT RETAINING WALLS PODIUMS PLANTER BOX WATER FEATURE WET AREAS WET AREA WALLS BALCONIES ROOF AREAS SWIMMING POOLS DFT-MM MINIMUM MAXIMUM COATS I think all liquid applied membranes should be a minimum of three coats as the DFT of the membrane system will give the membrane more durability and a longer expectancy. When comparing products or apples with apples, rather than rely on data sheets, testing results or manufacturing representatives telling you this is the best membrane to use, ASK YOURSELF THIS QUESTION? IS THE MEMBRANE FIT FOR THAT PARTICULAR PURPOSE, AND WILL I ACHIEVE THE CORRECT DFT IN TWO COATS? 83

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117 EVERYTHING THAT IS PATCHED AFTER A MEMBRANE SYSTEM HAS FULLY CURED WILL COMPROMISE AND WEAKEN THE INTEGRITY OF THE WHOLE WATERPROOFING SYSTEM. Copyright 2014 by John Blase All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests, write or contact the publisher. SUCCESSFUL PEOPLE ARE ALWAYS LOOKING FOR OPPORTUNITIES TO HELP OTHERS. UNSUCCESSFUL PEOPLE ARE ALWAYS ASKING, `WHAT`S IN IT FOR ME? BRIAN TRACY 117