WATERPROOFING PRODUCTS & TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Transcription

1 WATERPROOFING PRODUCTS & TECHNICAL INFORMATION DO IT ONCE-DO IT RIGHT-FIXED FOR GOOD 1

2 ABOUT THE AUTHOR The Waterproofing membrane systems that are designed and installed today are aimed at protecting building and structures from the effects of water ingress. This script is designed to widen your awareness of waterproofing products, their capacities and their induction routines and methods, as to emphasize the importance of waterproofing systems within the construction industry. The building industry is a fast and cost driven industry and unless the construction company can offer the customer a quality product they may discover it difficult to compete in the construction marketplace. When it comes to waterproofing contractors and products we have to assume that price comes before quality? John Blase is a passionate person with over 30 years experience within the building and waterproofing industry. A boiler maker for five years, thirteen years with Humes ARC and Smorgons steel in supplying reinforced steel to major projects in Brisbane and on both coasts. Nine years as a waterproofing applicator which included running and organizing high rise projects, hot roll and pour installations, sheet and liquid membrane installations? Five years as the QLD waterproofing Manager for Ardex Australia, four years as General Manager for Bayset Enterprises, which included a continuation of the report and specification writing for builders, applicators and Architects. John Blasé is Trade qualified and holds a certification four which allows for the training of waterproofing applicators and their apprentices in Qld. My true aim is to provide a better and more professional waterproofing industry with contractors as to install the correct waterproofing systems without compromising the integrity of the waterproofing, or the structure. This book will offer you a complete range of waterproofing products with best practices and correct technical information in todays market place. REMEMBER NOBODY IS AN EXPERT 2

3 Why waterproofing is A Risky Business THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS BROCHURE IS TO, Broaden your awareness of waterproofing products and their installation procedures. To emphasize its importance on the building site. The pros and cons of the different types of membranes of our markets today. For most people, waterproofing is an impervious barrier which is designed to prevent water from entering or escaping from a part of a structure or sections of a building. Waterproofing practices date back to the days of Noahs Ark, the 40 days of rain that prepared the people to take some form of action to stop water entering their dwelling and habitats. People then used hay, leaves, mud or clay mixed with grass or hay to form a waterproof barrier to stop the flow of water entering. It is difficult, but not impossible, to conduct strictly honest business -Mahatma Gandhi THE IMPORTANCE OF WATERPROOFING The real importance of waterproofing reflects on the consequences of NOT waterproofing. Water damage is second only to fire as a cause of building decay and deterioration in Australia, even Government divisions like the CSIRO state that building materials we use have a considerably shorter life span when subjected to moisture or water emersion over a period of time. 3

4 Water that enters a structure by default has immediate and long term effects. Apart from water damage to the structure and its contents, structural damage is unavoidable if the problems are constant. Water damage causes rotting of timber and timber finishes, corrosion of metals and reinforced steel, swelling of Gyprock and plasterboards, electrical hazards, blistering of paint, deterioration of building facades, rotting carpets, and health problems due to dampness and Mold. With all the problems we have with waterproofing the importance of waterproofing can never be overstated or overstated. THE MEMBRANES We mainly have two types of waterproofing membranes. Sheet membranes, and liquid applied membranes. Each has its own characteristics which also comes with its own problems. As we say in the building industry, the membranes are only as good as the installer. THE MEMBRANE ROLE To achieve waterproofing; a membrane must firstly be impermeable to prevent water entering or escaping. Must be flexible and accommodate normal building movement. Be durable and be able to retain its integrity over a long period of time, and be able to lend itself to design details in the building and be suitable for that specification. Some instances, the membrane will need to breathe to allow moisture and vapor to escape, be compatible with tile adhesives, renders, paints, and other building products, and provide a continuous film without weakness to withstand environmental and climatic conditions. Waterproofing has become simple with contractors due to the programmed intellect by Australian standards and manufacturers. We now have so many products and manufacturers either producing or importing waterproofing products that the products outweigh the knowledge and experience within the industry. FOR ALL, WATERPROOFING MEMBRANE SYSTEMS TO WORK AS INTENDED SHOULD BE INSTALLED TO FALLS AND CROSS FALLS. 4

5 SHEET MEMBRANES Bitumen torch applied membranes. PVC membranes Bentonite membranes TPO membranes EPDM membranes Self adhesive membranes Butynol membranes Photovoltaic membranes ADVANTAGES Can be loose laid or fully bonded Guaranteed thickness Cover joints, cracks and imperfections in the substrate Quick to install and remove It has good insulating properties and is very resilient To offer long term security Good durability with weathering in all climates The materials do not break down DISADVANTAGES Terminations and flashing Lap joints Compatible with other building products Roots and vegetation Should simply be applied as a roofing and below ground membrane system? LIQUID MEMBRANES Acrylic membranes Latex membranes Cement-based membranes, including additives Polyurethane membranes Epoxy-based membranes Bitumen membranes Plural component membranes 5

6 ADVANTAGES Semi-Flexibility Are fully bonded and monolithic Can be UV Stable and have the ability to breathe Easy and simple to apply Are a homogenous layer Easy to detail and flash Some are easy to repair and re-coat Cost effective systems Some are able to accommodate negative pressures DISAVANTAGES Most are easily damaged Coating thickness varies Sensitive to humidity and weathering Poor bonding to substrates if not prepared correctly Chemical residue contamination can result Short lifespan when left uncovered Building movement Compatibility issues with other building products Polyurethane membranes shall be in limited in their role in the succeeding two years due to their incompatibility with tile adhesive and other building finishes. WHY DO WE HAVE PROBLEM? Australian standards are poor and interpreted differently by many people. Limited Expertise and knowledge within the Waterproofing industry. Too many Waterproofing products on the market. Lack of technical knowledge by Manufacturers and their representatives. Lack of supervision by waterproofing contractors. Too many tilers waterproofing. Too many builders waterproofing their own work. Programmed intellect 6

7 WHO IS RESPONCIBLE WE ALL ARE. Government bodies and legislation. Builders. Designers. Manufacturers of Waterproofing Products. Waterproofing Contractors. Tilers. WHAT CAN WE DO? Appoint a Waterproofing Consultant for the project. Waterproofing Considerations at the conception level. Use waterproofing contractors with ten or more years experience. Implement a Quality Assurance program. Use the same waterproofing Contractors for each Project. Apply the same waterproofing products for that special application. (Put systems in place) All of the above mentioned will reduce the risk considerably. Only use tilers that have a separate waterproofing certification or license. SUMMARY Waterproofing has grown significantly over the past ten years, making more people aware of just how important and significant waterproofing need to be within the building industry. Waterproofing is a critical component of all building structures and the ramifications of failing to waterproof, or waterproof inadequately can be a staggering cost to a builder. LEAVE WATERPROOFING WITH EXPERIENCED PEOPLE, NOT KNOWLEDGEABLE PEOPLE 7

8 LIFT PITS Lift pits are constructed in two ways, a blinding lift pit or a constructed lift pit. The blinding lift pit is constructed and tanked from the ground up usually with a sheet membrane system are quite simple to tank. The erected lift pit has already been built from masonry block, concrete or tilt panel construction. If excess is comfortable, they are all easily tanked. Blinding lift pit Shall always be a sheet membrane system, preferably a two layered torch applied bitumen membrane which is terminated by a pressure seal or a reglet. 8

9 Masonry block and concrete Should always be a two-part cement based system such as Mapelastic Smart or Mapelastic Foundation installed as below Comments, We would always recommend tanking the inside of the lift pit as per the external tanking. 9

10 BASEMENT WATERPROOFING At the present time there are no waterproofing standards in place for below ground waterproofing or tanking. What we do have is a product knowledge base of manufacturers, and best practice guidelines and processes. Most basements will suffer from water ingress in their life time. There really has not been a waterproofing membrane system designed for underground or blindside tanking. Many manufacturers have tried with different membrane systems, but all have failed? This is not really the membranes fault, as the biggest issue is the membrane systems installed under and around basements are really designed for basement applications due to drainage systems and the design of the basements. Products such as bitumen sheet membranes, swellable bentonite, HDPE, PVC, concrete additives and spray applied membranes have all been used for blindside and basement tanking in Australia. Have any been successful; NO There is not a membrane system on the market designed to protect a basement FULLY from moisture or water ingress as each basement is designed and constructed differently and with different situations. Some basements will be fine with two or three coats of a waterproof membrane, while others may need a waterproof membrane and a drainage system put in place. We understand that waterproofing is required when a structure is built at ground level or below ground. Ground water is likely to build up in the soil and this causes the water table to rise, and the higher the water table the more hydrostatic pressure is exerted underneath and around the basement floors and walls. Hydrostatic pressure will force water through crack and joint in a basement, including openings caused by expansion and contraction, especially in the footing-foundation wall, floor joints, and also cracks or expansion joints in floor areas. Hydrostatic pressure can create major structural damage to basement foundations and walls and will also cause mold, concrete decay and other moisture related problems 10

11 WHAT IS THE ANSWER? Control water flow by establishing the correct drainage system for the particular volume of water, install a double wet wall system with internal spoon drains. Membrane system externally as to decrease water ingress. BEST PRODUCTS FOR UNDER-SLAB WATERPROOFING RIMPROOF PREPRUFE BENTONITE APP/SBS TORCH APPLIED BITUMEN MEMBRANES A sheet applied membrane system will give the builder a far more secure waterproofing system under the slab. Where we throw the issues when establishing these types of membrane systems is the amount of detailing that is taken to build the structure All penetrations in these sheet systems will be the weak link of the membrane system as they cannot be terminated as a sheet membrane should be? Most sheet membrane systems are best suited for protecting roof areas, and yet manufacturers use the same membrane system in other areas where it may not be better accommodated. Architects and Engineers specify waterproofing products for large projects by only reading data sheets, or talking to the manufacturers representatives who actually are not experienced enough to give the correct information. All waterproofing membranes are designed for one purpose and one purpose only, to keep water from entering the building or structure. My advice to you all is, use waterproofing products that deliver a long and durable history. Below is a list of waterproofing membranes that are currently on the market today for waterproofing under the building. The term for this type of waterproofing is commonly known as blinding or envelope waterproofing. 11

12 After many technological advances in waterproofing products and building design and there technics, we still have not managed to to make basements watertight from the ingress of water. This is not always due to the effectiveness or lack of the waterproofing systems and products being provided by manufacturers, but the increasing complexity of the building and a disregard for basic waterproofing principles. Water and moisture are the most destructive force on concrete, masonry and natural stone building in Australia and without a permanent waterproofing system the integrity and the life cycle of the building can severely be compromised. Good products can be sold by honest advertising. If you don t think the product is good, you have no business to be advertising it. David Ogilvy UNDERGROUND DRAINAGE Underground drainage is really significant as water drainage systems must accommodate hydrostatic pressures and constantly changing water tables. The builder must have an appropriate below ground drainage system in place to control the water conditions that are present beneath the earth, and above the ground to minimize water away from the foundations and walls of the basement. In some cases clay based membranes such as Bentonite systems require water to maintain its waterproofing properties and their performance when used in blinding situations. Bentonite or clay based membrane systems are not best suited for brick or block work structures. Water comes from two sources only; ground water, and surface water. For all waterproofing membrane systems to work as intended, the control and diversion of water are an imperative key in the design of the building. 12

13 Drainage systems must also be designed and have the ability to accommodate the rise in water due to rain or natural capillary action of soils. The design of any drainage system is very important for the membrane systems chosen to work effectively as to remain durably in the life cycle of the building. We are not talking about protecting the membrane system here, this is the responsibility of the waterproofing contractor, the final drainage system is discussed between the plumber and the builder. Conventional drainage such as Aggie drains perform poorly as over time they fill with silt, soil and plant roots which will eventually clog the drainage causing more pressure on the membrane system. There are now more acceptable drainage systems on the market now, but the cost always out performs quality when it comes to draining water away from structures. Water control is imperative and with the correct drainage systems installed behind walls, they will give exceptional drainage facilities, especially when concrete slabs are skinny or masonry block work is used. A good drainage system shall provide protection for the waterproofing membrane system, and will also reduce hydrostatic pressures. The advantage of installing a superior drainage system is that it saves on backfilling with expensive gravel or blue-stone, gives superior protection for the membrane system, and provides a quick channel for water to escape quickly and effectively. We don t recommend PP Coreflute boards as they sweat between membrane and PP Coreflute which may cause issues with the membrane system chosen EDUCATION IS WHEN YOU READ THE FINE PRINT. EXPERIENCE IS WHAT YOU GET IF YOU DON T. -PETER SEEGER 13

14 BEST DETAIL FOR BLINDING MEMBRANES Whether the walls are sheet piling or secant piles, the membrane system chosen should turn up the face walls at least 500mm above the height of the main slab. We would always advise the builder that a spoon, drain be installed in the internal basement perimeter with appropriate drainage. 14

15 Builders also put great faith in the ability of water-stops in providing a complete water seal at all concrete junctions. WATER-STOPS WATER STOP HISTORY Sealing joints in concrete have not changed much since the early 1940`s as PVC (polyvinyl chloride) water stops is still being used today to stop water passing through the joints. Each year in Queensland millions of dollars are spent on secondary waterproofing products to stop water penetration into property. Why do we have this problem? The most common problem with PVC water stops is that they are not successful in their ability to provide for expansion and contraction nor a continuous barrier against water penetration through the joint as they are difficult to install and secure and easily displaced during concrete placement. Water stops are elements of concrete structures which are intended to prevent the passages of water when installed the correctly. All water stops must be installed continuously through the concrete joints and in a straight line as to work effectively in the joint. Water stops are manufactured from numerous products which include extruded plastics such as flexible polyvinyl chloride, which is PVC, polyethylene PE, or thermoplastic vulcanized rubber TPO. Other materials that are in use for water stops are styrene butadiene natural rubber, neoprene rubber, Chloroprene rubber, hydrophilic modified bentonite systems. Hydrophobic water stops such as PVC, and rubber are supplied in coils and are generally between 180 mm and 250 mm wide with a variety of profiles that interlock when concrete is installed. These profiles lock into the concrete which allow for limited movement within the joint and are installed in a continuous line within the concrete joint. When the PVC needs to change direction or be joined a thermoplastic heat welding machine is used incorporating a jig, to join the PVC together. There are mainly two types of PVC water stops, ribbed or center bulb. 15

16 Ribbed are mainly used centrally in non-working joints as they can only accommodate for small amounts of transverse movement within the control joint. Centre bulb water stops have a bulb in the middle to accommodate for all joint configurations, including expansion joints, where the c entire bulb should never be covered with concrete. The larger the bulb in the middle of the PVC water stops the better the movement capabilities are for the joint to expand. Joints that need PVC water stops need to meet certain criteria s before installation such as type of joint, placement, hydrostatic pressure, reo bar position, concrete thickness and slump, chemical resistance, and joint movement. This is why an Engineer should specify PVC water stops in joints. THE GOOD AND THE BAD OF PVC WATER STOPS. Hard to install Most PVC water stops are limited with the expansion and contraction of concrete and this will cause the PVC water stop to split. Concrete has issues adhering to concrete. Joints have to be welded on site which is very difficult and never done correctly. Problems with warping in concrete. PVC water stops have a higher rate of failure over swell able water stops. Conclusion: With the different types of water stops on the market today, it is wise to choose the right one for that particular construction. Construction time lines and budget are the key considerations when choosing water stops, but if you choose the wrong one you jeopardize the structure if the joint leaks. HYDROPHILIC WATER STOPS Hydrophilic water stops first came to light in the 90`s and are strips which are modified with hydrophilic additives like bentonite (montmorillonite) encased by polyisobutylene rubber so they swell in the presence of water to seal 16

17 Bentonite water stops can swell up to 15 times its dry volume when in contact with fresh water, but the swelling is much less in salt water, around 4 times its dry volume. Bentonite water stops must be kept dry before and after installation as exposure to moisture or rain can cause the bentonite to swell and warp as it swells prematurely which will weaken the concrete and joint when concrete is poured. As with the PVC water stop bentonite water stops can be displaced or damaged during the concrete pour so care is to be taken by the contractor when water stops are put in place. As with most hydrophilic water stops they eventually dry out and will disintegrate due to their wet/dry cycles making them less suitable in wet environments. URETHANE WATER STOPS Like bentonite, urethane water stops are spongy hydrophilic compounds that when exposed to water swell up to 350% of their original volume to form a seal in the joint. They have the same issues as bentonite water stops above, but have the ability to cause concrete blow outs and concrete to crack. As with most hydrophilic water stops they eventually dry out and will disintegrate due to their wet/dry cycles making them less suitable in wet environments. THE GOOD AND THE BAD OF HYDROPHILIC WATER STOPS Easy application, with no welding. Swelling and shrinking are reversible procedures. They expand to every crack and cavity. They are more suitable for fresh water Can be reinforced with stainless wire mesh to stop snaking, They are not suitable for expansion joints Swell prematurely if rained on or ground is moist or wet. Can be displaced if not installed correctly. Can fail if cement slurry gets between the water stop and the concrete Have limited dry/wet cycles and will disintegrate in time. 17

18 Conclusion: Bentonite water stops are here to stay as they are much easier to install, and with the proper attention they can offer easy and reliable waterproofing solutions for a short time. Summary It is my opinion that hydrophilic/urethane water stops are much easier to install and work a little better in the joints if installed correctly, they do not handle movement well, salt water delays and will decrease swelling performance, and they have limited wet/dry cycles before they fall apart. PVC water stops have been around much longer and if installed correctly work more efficiently and are the true guaranteed water stops. My opinion is that; MOST PVC WATER STOPS PERFORM AT 75% BEFORE FAILURE, WITH 50% FOR THE SWELLABLE WATERSTOPS. BASEMENT WALL WATERPROOFING Every waterproofing contractor should know water penetration causes damage by vapor transmission through porous surfaces by direct seepage that s is in a liquid state. Basements structures are usually constructed for the use of car parking facilities for the tenants/owners of the building or their customers. The waterproofing membranes must be different from the waterproofing membranes we use above ground due to the severity of the water conditions and exposure to hydrostatic pressures and changing water tables. Drainage systems are also important when choosing a membrane system for basement wall waterproofing. Large basement structures should recommend diversion drainage systems as to accommodate ground and surface water during rain or when a water table is present that may occur Hydrostic problems. In my opinion, below ground basement wall waterproofing whether it is masonry block, brick or concrete should be with a cement-based product. There are mainly only two cementitious membrane systems available in Australia, chemical capillary waterproofing systems such as Xypex, Penetron 18

19 and Aquafin, Acrylic/polymer modified systems such as Mapelastic Foundation or Gripset C-1P. BEST PRODUCTS FOR BASEMENT CONCRETE AND MASONRY WALLS Modified Acrylic/polymer cementitious membrane systems are effective in both positive and negative situations and become an integral part of the concrete substrate. BEST PICKS ARE AS FOLLOWS; 1. Mapelastic Foundation. POSITIVES Can be applied to a damp substrate Tenacious bond to concrete & masonry Can be reinforced with mesh Positive and negative Installations Have a DFT of 2mm Handle damp and wet cycles Semi-flexible 15mt head negative pressure NEGATIVES Limited movement capabilities Mixing required on the job Curing issues in warm weather Hairline cracking in junctions Do not work well with Polyurethane sealants Need to be weighed on site 2. Gripset C-1P Single part mixed with water Tenacious bond to concrete & masonry UV stable Can be reinforced with mesh Potable water Have a DFT of 1.5mm to 2.5mm Handle damp and wet cycles Mixing required on-site Curing issues in warm weather Limited movement capabilities 21 days for full immersion in water Hairline cracking in junctions May need to be primed 15mt head of negative pressure 19

20 RETAINING WALLS As I have mentioned in basement waterproofing there is no waterproofing standard for retaining walls other than best practice guidelines and an understanding of waterproofing below ground. Residential waterproofing is no different to commercial waterproofing other than most residential builders do not recognize or understand the waterproofing standards that are presented in the National Building code of Australia. The residential market is crowded with one-man bands, tilers who consider themselves to be waterproof contractors, and builders who need to save money and install the waterproofing themselves. Most retaining walls are constructed with masonry blocks which are reinforced with steel reo-bars and corefilled. These masonary walls in my opinion fall into two categories; 1. Critical masonry walls constructed below ground in a car basement area, living or garage areas, or areas used for storage. 2. Noncritical masonry walls above ground that are separating two properties by a pathway, masonry walls that need to be rendered or painted. SLAB EDGE DAMPNESS These masonry block walls will need to be waterproofed just like commercial basement block walls, making sure to waterproof the entire footing as to eliminate slab edge dampness. Poor site drainage or stormwater discharge which allows water to pond against the slab/footing will have an effect if the membrane is not returned down the face of the footing, even soil adjacent to the slab/footing which is damp or wet will again cause slab edge dampness. Inadequate waterproofing or drainage in these critical areas will cause moisture to ingress behind a poorly installed drainage or membrane system. 20

21 INCORRECT WATERPROOFING CORRECT WATERPROOFING 21

22 In most cases footing and block walls will be damp so a membrane system designed for this installation is a cement-based waterproofing membrane system such as Mapelastic Foundation, or Gripset C-1P. Polyurethane membrane systems below ground should be primed with an epoxy primer making sure the primer extends past the finished membrane system as not to allow moisture to capillary under the polyurethane membrane causing the membrane to delaminate. POLYURETHANE MEMBRANES DO NOT LIKE MOISTURE OR DAMP FOOTING. Bitumen membranes or bitumen emulsions can be installed on a damp surface, but in most cases will need 5-7 days curing before backfilling is allowed. MY OPINION, ALWAYS USE A MODIFIED ACRYLIC POLYMER CEMENT-BASED MEMBRANE SYSTEM. ONLY THE WISEST AND STUPIDEST OF MEN NEVER CHANGE. -CONFUCIUS PROTECTION It is critical that All waterproofing membrane systems installed below ground level shall be protected from the dangers of backfilling materials which may contain sharp objects that may damage or penetrate the membrane system. In times past a strong geofabric was used to protect membranes below ground, then the rise of PP coreflute which is mainly 3mm thick with a weight of between gsm. Envirotech has Prodrain as we don t recommend PP Coreflute boards as they sweat between membrane and PP Coreflute which may cause issues with the membrane system chosen BETTER PROTECTION PROPERTIES. For better protection and drainage benchmarks, Prodrain or Gutterbeta is also available from Envirotech. 22

23 RECOMMENDED RETAINING WALL MEMBRANES Critical retaining walls Mapelastic Foundation Mapelastic Smart Gripset C1P Bostik Dampsheild PU Multiply layer torch applied bitumen membranes Noncritical retaining walls Mapei Plastimul Gripset C1P Mapelastic Smart Plastimul MEMBRANE PROTECTION & DRAINAGE In all cases the protection of the membrane system has been just as critical as the membrane itself. If clean backfill is to be used, Prodrain is recommended as We don t recommend PP Coreflute boards as they sweat between membrane and PP Coreflute which may cause issues with the membrane system chosen Gravel, rock or uncleaned fill the membrane should be covered with a more robust protection such as Guttabeta drainage or Prodrain drainage to protect the membrane system from penetration or sharp objects. 23

24 CORRECT DRAINAGE INSTALLATION It is critical that all drainage systems be installed to best practices as below; AGGIE DRAIN. Must be installed below the footing as below; 24

25 GUTTABETA & PRODRAIN INSTALLATION 25

26 NON-CRITICAL RETAINING WALLS These retaining walls are constructed of masonry block which need to be waterproofed to prevent chemical and pollution attack. The non-critical retaining wall is mostly above ground level, but may act as a retainer on one side and left exposed on the other side. When concrete or masonry is left exposed it suffers from our weather which is called carbonation. Carbonation attacks and deteriorates concrete as water mixed with pollutants in the air called carbon dioxide. This phenomenon decreases the alkalinity within concrete and as steel reinforcement relies on the protection of high alkalinity that comes from the concrete, once the alkalinity is reduced by carbon acid, concrete and steel will start to deteriorate. The retaining wall must be waterproofed on the side backfilling is to take place as to minimize water penetration through to the exposed wall that may be rendered or painted. This membrane system is classified as non-critical, so a more inexpensive membrane system may be applied such as Mapei Plastimul, Mapelastic Smart, or Gripset C-1P. Protection of the membrane is still required and an Aggie drain installed to minimize water behind the wall. On the open side of the wall it is always best to waterproof before applying the render coat as renders tend to crack due to thermal movement. We must install a membrane system that will be compatible with the renders coating that is to be applied after membrane installation. Rockcote or Active Building Systems have a complete and guaranteed system which will render and waterproof the wall. It is imperative that the top of the walls is waterproofed with the render coat falling towards the soil. 26

27 BELOW GROUND TILT PANEL WATERPROOFING Tilt panel waterproofing below ground level has two flaws, the vertical joints and the horizontal joints. As the panels are usually erected on the slab or on a cast bed, the best waterproofing solution is with a self-adhesive sheet membrane system such as Bituthene We are aware that some tilt panel constructions are installed onto piers which makes it impossible to efficiently waterproof the wall/floor junctions due to an unstable substrate. TILT PANEL WATERPROOFING AS WRITTEN. Cut all panels shims flush Clean all surfaces to be waterproofed by 4000-psi water-blaster. Install Mapei T40 non-shrink grout to the base of the panels to cove and fill voids at a 45º angle and smooth. Install Neoferma gasket to correct depth. Install a closed cell backer rod to correct depth. Install Soudal MS-35 sealant and tool off smooth. Allow to cure 24 hours. Prime all areas with Bituthene primer and allow curing. Install a 200mm wide strip of Bituthene 3000 and install over T40 cove. Install Bituthene 3000 from the base of the footing and 300mm to face of tilt panel. Install a 200mm wide strip of Bituthene 3000 to vertical joints starting from the bottom to seal. Roll all lap joints with a hand held steel roller to compress sheet joints. Install Bituthene 3000 to rest of the walls. Compress all laps joints with steel roller. Mastic all cut edges with Bituthene mastic and smooth. Protect membrane with protection as recommended. 27

28 28

29 VERTICLE JOINT DETAIL WITH NEOFERMA GASKET. 29

30 PODIUM AREA WATERPROOFING Concrete podium areas experience water ingress from areas such as; Expansion joints, crackings due to expansion and contraction, crane base cold joints, drainage and service penetrations, planter boxes located on podium slabs, and perimeter and separation walls. In all cases the waterproofing membrane is installed to the main substrate which in some case can be quite sizable. In the late 80`s and 90`s hot-roll and pour where the chosen membrane system and even with todays technology in waterproofing products, this is still the best membrane system for podium surfaces. Today we have three possible membrane applications in podium areas; 1. A membrane system which has tiles directly fixed to the waterproofing membrane system. 2. A concrete topping installed directly on top of the membrane system. 3. A heavy trafficable exposed membrane system. Which ever the design, it is critical that the correct membrane system is specified, but most of all installed correctly by a competent waterproofing contractor. My opinion would be whatever the membrane system chosen, the film thickness of the membrane would be the most critical? For direct fixed tiles to the membrane system we really only have one choice, the membrane system need to be compatible with the tiling adhesive. From this membrane system we choose two quality membrane systems as follows; 1. AMI Ultraflex Rx, a urethane-acrylic reinforced membrane system is UV stable, worthy water immersion levels, excellent stress levels, and good elongation properties. 2. Enviro-Pro, an elastomeric acrylic reinforced membrane system with excellent stress levels, and good elongation properties. 30

31 AMI ULTRAFLEX RX INSTALLATION PROCEDURES V grind cracks over 2mm wide to a depth of 5mm. Clean all areas by pressure cleaning to remove all contaminants Sweep off excess water and apply AMI Taspac epoxy primer. Seal all junctions with Soudal MS-35 sealant 12mm wide and tool off smooth. Install neutral silicone to all cracks over 2mm, making sure to spread the silicone 5mm either side of the cracks and skim off with flat scraper. Allow curing for 12 hours. Reinforce all junctions and cracks over 2mm with AMI Ultraflex RX and a polyester bandage and allow to cure. Reinforce all junctions and cracks over 2mm with AMI Ultraflex RX and a polyester bandage and allow to cure. SOUDAL MS INSTALLATION PROCEDURES V grind cracks over 2mm wide to a depth of 5mm. Clean all areas by pressure cleaning to remove all contaminants Sweep off excess water and allow to dry for 2 hours. Seal all junctions with Soudal MS-35 sealant 12mm wide and tool off smooth. Install neutral silicone to all cracks over 2mm, making sure to spread the silicone 5mm either side of the cracks and skim off with flat scraper. Allow curing for 12 hours. Reinforce all junctions and cracks over 2mm with Rim-PUR MS and a polyester bandage and allow to cure. Reinforce all junctions and cracks over 2mm with AMI Ultraflex RX and a polyester bandage and allow to cure. 31

32 PODIUM SEPARATION WALLS In the old days when using hot-roll and pour methods we would always pour the hot bitumen around the reinforcement bars before the blocks were laid. Nowadays the membrane systems are just turning up the face walls to the height required. If the construction method is masonry block we need to waterproof the walls. In most cases the builder should allow for a full waterproofing package by a qualified rendering/paint manufacturer such as Granosite, Ezt-cote or Rockcote as they have a complete system which includes, priming, rendering and painting. These systems are equally as good on concrete substrates and they are constantly used on many buildings that are subject no rendering procedures. The residential builder, however, leaves the advise to the painter, as in most cases the builder chooses the sub-contractors to perform the works that meets his qualifications hence the Building insurance scheme.. Most residential builders choose to use more masonry block, timber and blue panel for external construction, with most external balconies being constructed from fibre-cement sheeting or scyon board. With unit or townhouse developments the dividing walls are usually between units and mostly made from blue-board or masonry block so waterproofing the outside walls is essential especially if the areas are over living areas. FAILURE IS SIMPLE THE OPPORTUNITY TO BEGIN AGAIN, THIS TIME MORE INTELLIGENTLY. -HENRY FORD 32

33 PODIUM WATERPROOFING WITH CONCRETE TOPPING Hot-roll and pour will always be my first choice for podium areas, but times have changed and product technology has gone on from kettles and watering pots. The years of liquid membranes have brought more inexperienced people into the circle of waterproofing, and as more products are introduced into the market place the options are overwhelming. When the hot - roll and pour and sheet membrane systems controlled the waterproofing industry at least the contractors installing these systems were experienced. Even today, 25 years on, Bitumen sheet membrane systems including the best sheet membrane of all Nuralite are still found on roof tops today. For podiums the system that is above all others is the Rimseal 170 PU. Rimseal PU 170 is a single component self levelling polyurethane membrane system with a solid content of 97% a Shore A hardness of 72 and over 500% elongation. RIMSEAL PU 170 INSTALLATION V grind cracks over 2mm wide to a depth of 5mm. Clean all areas by pressure cleaning to remove all contaminants Prime all areas with Adflex WBE epoxy primer. Seal all cracks with Rimseal PUR sealant and tool off flat. Install Rimseal PUR 12mm wide to all junctions and tool off smooth. Allow 12 hours curing for maximum performance. Pre-strip all junctions and cracks with Rimseal PU-170. Apply Rimseal PU-170 by squeegee and roller to a DFT of 3mm. Install Colorpave to all upturns were finishes are to be installed. Allow 24 curing. Install polyethylene plastic as a slip sheet before placement of concrete. 33

34 PLANTER BOX WATERPROOFING Planter boxes have always been an issue for waterproofing due to poor designs and drainage systems, and root growth of plants and palms. Bitumen sheet membranes with root inhibitors have long been driven by manufacturers, but sheet laps are still the lightest level of entry for roots. I have seen many excavated planter boxes and in most cases the roots have made their way through the polyurethane coves installed when applying liquid membranes, and through the sheet joints in sheet membranes. In my opinion the membrane system for planter boxes should be monolithic, be able to withstand full submerged water, be cementitous as to handle increasing PH in garden soils, have positive and negative properties, and be able to be compatible with renders and other finishes. In my opinion we have two products that are capable of waterproofing planter boxes which I believe will give better performance with a much longer durability than most other membrane systems on the market. Mapelastic Smart and Gripset C-1P are both cement-based products with outstanding performance criteria for planter boxes. Planter box drainage is also critical in planter boxes as to allow the plant life to live within that space as to make sure they obtain sufficient water to survive. With this in mind protecting the membrane from damage and installing the perfect drainage system has never been easier as below; I prefer to have the planter box floor level as topping or screeds made to falls drain water away too quickly for the plants. As we have chosen a membrane system fit for purpose, protecting the membrane walls should be a 6 mm fibre-cement sheeting, Prodrain and Gutterbeta V drainage cell installed upside down to floor areas with a prodrain on top. What this means is that water can be retained in the Gutterbeta dimples that face upwards, allowing the root systems to grow downwards to where water is stored. BEFORE GOD WE ARE ALL EQUALLY WISE-AND EQUALLY FOOLISH. -ALBERT EINSTEIN 34

35 PLANTER BOX INSTALLATION FOR MASONRY BLOCK AND CONCRETE MAPELASTIC SMART. Repair all voids or divots with mapecem Quick-patch Recess drains as to allow for puddle flange. Clean all areas to be waterproofed. Formed concrete will need to be water-blasted to remove release agents, Install Mapei Grout T40/Fast-set 50mm wide to all right-angled junctions and smooth. Install Mapelastic Smart to all junctions incorporating a polyester bandage or if possible a Mapei non-alkaline mesh. Install Soudal MS-35 sealant around the top of the drainage waste to seal cold joint between PVC and slab. Install one coat of Mapelastic smart in a circle around waste and install puddle flange flush with top of the substrate. Install Mapei Eporip epoxy to top of the puddle flange and around puddle flange and sprinkle mesh 20 dry sand into wet epoxy and slightly flatten Allow curing for 4 hours. Install two/three coats of Mapelastic Smart to all areas to be waterproofed to a DFT of 2mm. Allow curing for 48 hours before protection is installed. IMPORTANT COMMENTS All PVC penetrations which may include electrical services or lights must have Mapei Eporip epoxy with sand as a bonding primer for Mapelastic Smart. All cement-based waterproofing products are best installed to a damp substrate. We would ALWAYS recommend a 48 hour water-test be conducted in all planter boxes before filling. 35

36 GRIPSET C-1P. Repair all voids or divots with Gripset DM powder and Gripset 11y. Recess drains as to allow for puddle flange. Clean all areas to be waterproofed. Formed concrete will need to be water-blasted to remove release agents, Install Gripset DM powder mixed with 11y to form a 50mm wide cove to all right-angled junctions and smooth. Install gripset C-1P to all junctions incorporating a polyester bandage Install Gripset SB sealant around the top of the drainage waste to seal cold joint between PVC and slab. Install one coat of gripset C-1P in a circle around waste and install puddle flange flush with top of the substrate. Install Gripset P10 epoxy to top of the puddle and around puddle flange and sprinkle mesh 20, dry sand into wet epoxy and slightly flatten Allow curing for 4 hours. Install two coats of Gripset C-1P to all areas to be waterproofed to a DFT of 2mm. Allow curing for 48 hours before protection is installed. IMPORTANT COMMENTS All PVC penetrations which may include electrical services or lights must have Gripset P10 epoxy with sand as a bonding primer for Gripse C-1P. All cement-based waterproofing products are best installed to a damp substrate. We would ALWAYS recommend a 48 hour water-test be conducted in all planter boxes before filling. We don t recommend PP Coreflute boards for planter box protection as they cause sweating between the membrane and PP Coreflute. In time, this will cause small roots to be trapped or emmbed themselves between the PP coreflute and membrane which causes the roots to penetrate the membrane system. 36

37 WATER FEATURES AND PONDS Most water features installed on large unit projects are subject to the water being chemically charged with ingredients such as chlorine and Algaecides. We would recommend that all water features which have a chemical influence to be either fully tiled or completely rendered. There are chemical resistance epoxy systems on the market, but all have limited or no flexibility and are not UV stable above the water lines. We may also have an issue with hydrastic water pressures from the outside walls of the water feature or pond due to most are not waterproofed externally when installed below ground. The other concern with water features is they tend to have many penetrations such as inlets, outlets and electrical services such as lights and sprinklers. There is an old waterproofing saying within the industry, the more penetrations the more leaks. With all this in mind, we have two waterproofing systems for water features and ponds which are compatible with rendered finishes and tile adhesives. Gripset c-1p and Mapelastic Smart. MAPELASTIC SMART. Repair all voids or divots with mapecem Quick-patch Recess around all PVC penetrations to a depth of 15mm Formed concrete will need to be water-blasted to remove release agents, Install Mapelastic Smart to all perimeter junctions incorporating the Mapeband system, then install Mapeband to vertical joints last. Install Mapei Eporip epoxy as a primer to all recessed PVC penetrations and sprinkle mesh 20, dry sand into wet epoxy and slightly flatten Allow curing for 4 hours Install Mapelastic Smart in a circle around recessed PVC penetrations that have been primed with Eporip epoxy Install Mapei Quick patch around all recessed penetrations making sure to leave a 3mm recess between the PVC to finish the membrane system. 37

38 Install two coats of Mapelastic Smart to all areas to be waterproofed to a DFT of 2mm, making sure to tie membrane into 3mm recess around PVC penetrations. We would ALWAYS recommend a 48 hour water-test be conducted in all planter boxes before filling. Water feature may now be tiled or rendered to complete installation. For rendering and tiling recommendations, please contact Mapei. GRIPSET C-1P Repair all voids or divots with Gripset DM powder and Gripset 11y. Recess around all penetrations to a depth of 15mm. Formed concrete will need to be water-blasted to remove release agents, Prime PVC penetrations with Gripset P10 and sprinkle mesh 20, dry sand into the wet epoxy and slightly flatten. Install gripset C-1P to all junctions incorporating the Gripset Elastoproof systems. Install Gripset C-1P in a circle around PVC penetrations that have been primed with Gripset P10 epoxy primer Allow curing for 4 hours. Install two coats of Gripset C-1P to all areas to be waterproofed to a Dft of 2mm We would ALWAYS recommend a 24 hour water-test be conducted in all planter boxes before filling. Water feature may now be tiled or rendered to complete installation. For rendering and tiling recommendations, please contact Gripset. THE GREATEST DISCOVERY OF ALL TIME IS THAT A PERSON CAN CHANGE HIS FUTURE BY MERELY CHANGING HIS ATTITUDE -OPRAH WINFREY 38

39 AS WET AREA WATERPROOFING The most waterproofed areas of the building industry today? Wet areas are defined as follows; Bathrooms Ensuites Toilets Laundry Powder rooms Commercial kitchens may also need to be waterproofed due to health and safety regulations. With so many waterproofing membrane on the market today, undertile waterproofing can be installed by licensed waterproofing contractors, tilers, builders, bathroom renovators, and individuals who seem to think they can waterproof there own bathrooms when renovating. Wet area waterproofing has been in the QBCC TOP 10 DEFECT LIST FOR OVER 10 years, maybe longer and today nothing has changed. In my opinion tilers and builders who have not qualified for the Certification 3 in waterproofing should not be allowed to waterproof. I have seen many waterproofing products introduced into the market over the last 26 years, and basically we are almost turning full circle. HISTORY LESSON ON WET AREA MEMBRANES. When I first came onto the waterproofing industry, we only had water-based liquid applied membrane systems which had to be fully reinforced with ACI 225gsm chopped strand fibreglass mesh. Even the high-end car trafficable membrane systems where one-part Acrylic membranes reinforced with either two-layers of 225gsm fibreglass mesh or one layer of 300gsm fibreglass mesh. And guess what? We had very limited or no problems with any of these systems. The main reason being, that in the old days the contractors were more experienced because of their product knowledge as we had only to choose from a handful of waterproofing products such as 39

40 Bitumen Hot-roll and pour. Torch applied membrane systems. Spot adhered membrane called Nuralite Single-part water-based membrane systems Chopped strand fibreglass mesh. What more did we need, these products cover everything we do today. We also had a lot less waterproofing contractors in Queensland in those days not even the other trades would want to take on the hot - roll and pour or apply torch-on membrane systems, they even thought waterproofing wet areas were difficult and too time consuming to install. HOW THINGS HAVE CHANGED NOW. In the early nineties we had our first taste of cementitous two-part membranes, which we had to mix on site, was always lumpy, needed more effort to install the product, went off to quickly in warmer weather, and the issues of product wastage. We also had our first taste of using a polyurethane membrane system on The Southbank apartment project for Concrete constructions we used a black polyurethane membrane called TP60 from Pabco to install to all wet areas and planter boxes with little thought that six months later the migration from the bitumen in the TP60 would turn all the silicone in the wet areas yellow. NO MORE TP60 IN WET AREAS AFTER THAT. On to the next stage, we need a polyurethane that contains no bitumen so Pabco had the idea of ejecting a grey 600ml polyurethane sausage into a bucket, adding Xylen and mixing to form a spreadable membrane for wet areas. Worked ok, but the fumes were terrible and to think I did this for another 12 months. The age of polyurethane membranes was born, and for the next 15 years, it has been used as a one coat system for wet areas and other applications. On the last 5 years' issues have been raised by tiling contractors and tile adhesive manufacturer with the ability to cement-based products to polyurethane membranes. I think now in 2014, people are more aware that you cannot adhere anything to a polyurethane membrane, especially cement-based products even with sand broadcast into it, nor is it a one coat system. 40