PRODUCT DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT Paola Bertola, Chiara Colombi, Giuseppe Stabilini MILANO FASHION INSTITUTE
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1 PRODUCT DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT Paola Bertola, Chiara Colombi, Giuseppe Stabilini
2 PRODUCT DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT Course introduceon 2
3 COURSE INTRODUCTION/1 Design process planning and development Different business models VS different design processes Launch of final exercise and examples Trend research as a design tool Crea>ve triangula>on: visualising the trend Scenario and concept development The fast design process: a paradigma>c change From research into final product: Prada case study From merchandising planning to design planning: the collec>on s architecture Key items: the must have of collec>ons in woman and menswear Key items: the must have of collec>ons in accessories Products development: design variables Paola Bertola Chiara Colombi Paola Bertola Chiara Colombi
4 COURSE INTRODUCTION/2 New Collec>on development process. The development process and the Opera>ons objec>ves Quality, Time to Market, Cost Opera>ons management Variety: value or cost? The role of suppliers in the new collec>on Sourcing objec>ves and strategies Case History Supplier selec>on, evalua>on and control From research into final product: Valen>no case study Company guest speaker Working on final assignment Giuseppe Stabilini Giuseppe Stabilini Giuseppe Stabilini Paola Bertola
5 PRODUCT DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT Design process planning and development 5
6 THE CREATIVE PROCESS: INSIDE THE BLACK BOX THE CREATIVE PROCESS IS NOT A BLACK BOX: IT IS A STRUCTURED PROCESS WHERE CREATIVE ATTITUDES ARE NURTURED THROUGH A DEEP CONTINUATIVE RESEARCH AND SUPPORTED BY STRUCTURED PLANNING AND MANAGING ACTIVITIES
7 THE COLLECTION: CONTINUATIVE VS NEW A COLLECTION IS A COMPLEX SYSTEM OF PRODUCTS, NOT ONLY MADE TO ORDER, NEVER TOTALLY NEW, CREATED THROUGH A PROCESS WHERE CREATIVE RESEARCH MEETS MARKET FEEDBACKS & STYLISTIC GUIDELINES SET UP BY BRAND DNA
8 THE COLLECTION STRUCTURE: STABILITY VS RISK ANY COLLECTION HAS A BALANCED STRUCTURE WHICH MIXES CONTINUATIVE ICONIC PRODUCTS, COMMERCIAL/BASIC PRODUCTS, RESEARCH/TREND PRODUCTS. IT IS PLANNED, DESIGNED AND DELIVERED USUALLY IN TWO TRANCE: PRE- COLLECTION (CONTINUATIVE/ COMMERCIAL) MAIN COLLECTION (RESEARCH BASED/ EXPERIMENTAL)
9 FASHION PRODUCTS: RESEARCH, DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT PROCESS FUNCTIONS STRATEGIES PRODUCTS MARKET TOP MANAGEMENT SHARE HOLDERS CREATIVE DIRECTION BRAND MNG MARKETING COMMUNICATION DESIGN RETAIL & SALES PRODUCT DEV. PROD. & LOG.
10 FASHION PRODUCTS: RESEARCH, DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT PROCESS ROLES STRATEGIES PRODUCTS MARKET TOP MANAGEMENT SHARE HOLDERS CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER, CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER CREATIVE DIRECTION CREATIVE DIRECTOR, FASHION COORDINATOR BRAND MNG BRAND MANAGERS, ASSISTANTS BRAND MANAGER, MERCHANDISERS DESIGN CHEF DESIGNER, TREND/MATERIAL RESEARCHERS, DESIGNERS JUNIOR DESIGNERS PRODUCT DEV. PRODUCT MANAGERS, PROTOTYPERS & TECHNICAL STAFF PROD. & LOG. PRODUCTION DIRECTOR, BUYERS, SUPPLY CHAIN MANAGERS MARKETING MARKETING MANAGER, MARKETING ANALYSTS COMMUNICATION ART DIRECTOR, VISUAL & GRAPHIC DESIGNERS, COMMUNICATION MANAGER, PRESS OFFICE STAFF RETAIL & SALES SALES MANAGER, RETAIL MANAGER, LINE BUILDER, BUYERS, CATEGORY MANAGERS, STORE MANAGERS, STORE PLANNERS, VISUAL MERCHANDISERS
11 FASHION PRODUCTS: RESEARCH, DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT PROCESS ACTIVITIES STRATEGIES PRODUCTS MARKET TOP MANAGEMENT SHARE HOLDERS COMPANY/GROUP STRATEGY, COMPANY DIRECTION CREATIVE DIR. CREATIVE STRATEGY, FASHION COORDINATION AMONG CATEGORIES, BRANDS BRAND MNG BRAND STRATEGY, DES & DEV. COORDINATION, MERCHADINSING PLANNING, PRICING DESIGN SEASONAL TREND RESEARCH, MATERIAL SAMPLES RESERCH, COLLECTION DESIGN PRODUCT DEV. PRODUCTS DEVELOPMENT, SAMPLE COLLECTIONS PRODUCTION PROD. & LOG. PRODUCTION COORDINATION, COLLECTION ENGINEERING, SUPPLIES PLANNING AND MNG MARKETING MARKET ANALYSIS & POSITIONING, SAILS DATA PROCESSING COMMUNICATION COMMUNICATION STRATEGY, COMMUNICATION & GRAPHIC DESIGN, PRESS OFFICE RETAIL & SALES SALES MANAGEMENT, RETAIL/AREA/STORE MANAGEMENT, RETAIL PLANNING & DESIGN, VISUAL MERCHANDISING
12 THE CREATIVE PROCESS: FROM IDEAS TO PRODUCTS PHASES CREATIVE BRIEFING SET UP THE CREATIVE BRIEF OF THE SEASON TREND RESEARCH TREND GRASPING, TRADESHOWS VISITS, INSPIRATIONS AND MOODBOARDS, MATRIALS AND COLOURS DEFINITIONS SEASONAL BRAND STRATEGY MARKET POSITIONING, SALES DATA ANALYSIS, SET UP FIRST COLLECTION S ARCHITECTURE, PREPARING COLLECTION BRIEF DESIGN BRIEFING SHARING RESEARCH AND ANALYSIS DISCUSSING THE COLLECTION BRIEF, SET UP FIRST MERCHANDISING PLAN MAIN COLLECTION DESIGN IMPLEMENTING INSPIRATIONS, SKETCHING OUTFITS, TECHNICAL DRAWING, PATTERMAKING & PROTOTYPING, ORDERING SAMPLES, START SELECTING SUPPLIERS PRE- COLLECTION DESIGN SELECTING SUPPLIERS, ORDERING MATERIALS, IMPLEMENTING CONTINUATIVE PRODUCTS, SKETCHING OUTFITS, TECHNICAL DRAWING, PATTERMAKING & PROTOTYPING PRODUCTION MEETING MERCHNDISING PLAN DEFINITION FOR PRE AND MAIN COLLECTION PRODUCTS DEVELOPMENT SAMPLES COLLECTION PRODUCTION, ORDERING MATERIALS FOR PRE- CONTINUATIVE PRODUCTION
13 THE CREATIVE PROCESS: FROM IDEAS TO PRODUCTS ACTORS CREATIVE BRIEFING LEAD THE MEETING: CREATIVE DIRECTIOR INVOLVED: FASHION COORDINATOR, DESIGNERS, BRAND MANAGER TREND RESEARCH SUPERVISE THE PROCESS: CREATIVE DIRECTOR INVOLVED: FASHION COORDINATOR. TREND RESERCHERS, DESIGNERS SEASONAL BRAND STRATEGY SUPERVISE THE PROCESS: BRAND MANAGER INVOLVED: MARKETING MANAGER & MARKETING STAFF, MERCHANDISER DESIGN BRIEFING LEAD THE MEETING: CREATIVE DIRECTOR INVOLVED: BRAND MANAGER, CHIEF DESIGNER, COMMUNICATION MANAGER, ART DIRECTOR MAIN COLLECTION DESIGN SUPERVISE THE PROCESS: CHIEF DESIGNER INVOLVED: DESIGNERS, MERCHANDISER, PROTOTYPERS, TECHNICAL STAFF, PRODUCT MANAGER PRE- COLLECTION DESIGN SUPERVISE THE PROCESS: CHIEF DESIGNER INVOLVED: DESIGNERS, MERCHANDISER, PROTOTYPERS, TECHNICAL STAFF, PRODUCT MANAGER, BUYERS PRODUCTION MEETING LEAD THE MEETING: BRAND MANAGER INVOLVED: CHIEF DESIGNER, PRODUCT MANAGER, BUYERS, RETAILS & SALES MANAGERS PRODUCTS DEVELOPMENT SUPERVISE THE PROCESS: PRODUCT MANAGER INVOLVED: DESIGNERS, TECHNICAL STAFF
14 COLLECTION TIMING: MADE TO ORDER VS FAST
15 PRODUCT DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT Different business models VS different design processes 15
16 DESIGN SUPLY CHAINS : DESIGN PROFILES DESIGN MAKE & BUY STORNG DESIGN DIRECTION + STRUCTURED DESIGN DEPARTMENT + RESEARCH CONSULTANTS DESIGN SUPLY CHAIN STRONG BRAND DIRECTION + DESIGN CONSULTANTS / PRODUCT LICENCING DESIGN & PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT STRONG RESEARCH & PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT + DESIGN CONSULTANTS DESIGN DRIVEN COMPANY STRONG DESIGN DIRECTION + PRODUCTION NETWORKS
17 ATTITUDE TO RE- INTEPRETIG BRAND HERITAGE Made in Italy DESIGN STRATEGY Top range/luxury products A_en>on to detail and materials Tradi>onal manufacture and know how recovery Slow evolu>on of brand codes: aesthe>c re- tuning of brand tradi>on
18 DESIGN MADE IN ITALY
19 DESIGN MADE IN ITALY
20 MADE IN ITALY
21 DESIGN MADE IN ITALY
22 DESIGN MADE IN ITALY
23 DESIGN MADE IN ITALY
24 DESIGN MADE IN ITALY
25 DESIGN MADE IN ITALY
26 DESIGN MADE IN ITALY
27 MADE IN ITALY
28 KEY PROCESSES AND ROLES Brand Merchandising Design Product 28
29 ATTITUDE TO VALORIZATION OF LOCAL RESOURCES Slow design DESIGN STRATEGY Top range niche products A_en>on to cra` details uniqueness Focus on integra>on between hand made and industrial Slow evolu>on / daily aesthe>cs
30 SLOW DESIGN
31 SLOW DESIGN
32 SLOW DESIGN
33 SLOW DESIGN
34 SLOW DESIGN
35 SLOW DESIGN
36 SLOW DESIGN
37 SLOW DESIGN
38 SLOW DESIGN
39 SLOW DESIGN
40 SLOW DESIGN
41 KEY PROCESSES AND ROLES Brand Merchandising Design Product 41
42 PRODUCT INNOVATION ATTITUDE Design & Tech DESIGN STRATEGY Top range A_en>on to the technical details & performances Focus on product engineering Con>nua>ve products VS slow evolu>on
43 DESIGN & TECH
44 DESIGN & TECH
45 DESIGN & TECH
46 DESIGN & TECH
47 DESIGN & TECH
48 DESIGN & TECH
49 DESIGN & TECH
50 DESIGN & TECH
51 DESIGN & TECH
52 DESIGN & TECH
53 DESIGN & TECH
54 KEY PROCESSES AND ROLES Brand Merchandising Design Product 54
55 COMMUNICATION ATTITUDE Community design DESIGN STRATEGY Medium- top range Focus on communica>on design (graphic, packaging, retail ) Made to order VS Fast Fast evolu>on trand sensible
56 DESIGN COMMUNITY
57 DESIGN COMMUNITY
58 DESIGN COMMUNITY
59 DESIGN COMMUNITY
60 DESIGN COMMUNITY
61 DESIGN COMMUNITY
62 DESIGN COMMUNITY
63 DESIGN COMMUNITY
64 DESIGN COMMUNITY
65 DESIGN COMMUNITY
66 DESIGN COMMUNITY
67 DESIGN COMMUNITY
68 DESIGN COMMUNITY
69 DESIGN COMMUNITY
70 DESIGN COMMUNITY
71 DESIGN COMMUNITY
72 DESIGN COMMUNITY
73 DESIGN COMMUNITY
74 DESIGN COMMUNITY
75 DESIGN COMMUNITY
76 DESIGN COMMUNITY
77 KEY PROCESSES AND ROLES Brand VS CommunicaEon Merchandising Design Product 77
78 MARKETING ATTITUDE design ready to wear DEIGN STRATEGY Medium- high range Focus on occasion of use Merchandising & product development Daily aesthe>c trend sensible
79 DESIGN READY TO WEAR
80 DESIGN READY TO WEAR
81 DESIGN READY TO WEAR
82 DESIGN READY TO WEAR
83 DESIGN READY TO WEAR
84 DESIGN READY TO WEAR
85 DESIGN READY TO WEAR
86 DESIGN READY TO WEAR
87 DESIGN READY TO WEAR
88 DESIGN READY TO WEAR
89 DESIGN READY TO WEAR
90 DESIGN READY TO WEAR
91 DESIGN READY TO WEAR
92 DESIGN READY TO WEAR
93 DESIGN READY TO WEAR
94 KEY PROCESSES AND ROLES Brand Merchandising Design Product 94
95 TOTAL LIFESTYLE ATTITUDE Global design ON THE NEXT
96 TOTAL LIFESTYLE
97 TOTAL LIVING
98 TOTAL LIVING
99 TOTAL LIVING
100 TOTAL LIFESTYLE
101 TOTAL LIFESTYLE
102 MERCHANDISING & PRODUCT DESIGN Assignment 102
103 Each student will: _ select a fashion brand _ select a colleceon The final outcome will include 1) Process mapping (Stabilini) 2) Style s code analysis Iconic products, fibng, materials/fabrics, colours etc. 3) Trend and mood visualizaeon 4) CollecEon analysis and merchandising plan simulaeon 5) IntegraEon of merchandising plan for balancing pricing and occasions of use
104 Final outcomes _ PPT for 5 presentaeon _ Merchandising plan agached
105 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 TEXTURE
106 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 AFRICA
107 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 TEXTURE tempo libero formale sera
108 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 AFRICA tempo libero formale sera
109 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 TEXTURE AFRICA totale tempo libero formale sera 1 pantalone 5 short 1 giacca 6 top 3 gonne 3 pantaloni 3 giacche 2 coprispalle 5 top 11 abiti 1 pantalone 1 short 2 leggins 2 coprispalle 2 top 1 pantalone 1 short 2 costumi 2 abiti 2 top 2 abiti 2 pantaloni 1 short 3 giacche 1 top 1 leggins 6 abiti 2 leggins 2 abiti 2 pantaloni 6 short 1 giacca 8 top 2 costumi 2 abiti 3 gonne 4 pantaloni 2 short 1 leggins 6 giacche 2 coprispalle 6 top 17 abiti 1 pantalone 1 short 4 leggins 2 coprispalle 2 top
110 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 COLLEZIONE 21 abiti 3 gonne 8 pantaloni 8 short 5 leggins 7 giacche 4 coprispalla 16 top = 63 Modelli
111 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 ABITI
112 1 pantalo MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 ABITI
113 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 ABITI
114 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 GONNE
115 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 PANTALONI
116 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 SHORT
117 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 LEGGINS
118 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 GIACCHE
119 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 COPRISPALLE
120 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 TOP
121 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 TOP
122 MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC - S/S 07 COSTUMI
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