2 HfHMD uses LP SmartSide siding and trim. These products are: More durable than cement fiber board. Much more volunteer-friendly to install. When installed correctly, have a 5/50- year pro-rated warranty.
3 Types of siding Lap siding 6 to 8 Exterior trim ⁵/₄ x 2 up to ⁵/₄ x 12 Shakes 4 x 1 shingles of wood composite Board and batten 4'x8' sheets (boards) and 1x2 (battens)
4 Types of siding Plans will call for one of two fascia/soffit combinations, EITHER: with Fascia Rabbeted 1x6 trim Soffit Ventilated LP sheets Fascia Custom-bent aluminum sheets OR: Soffit Ventilated vinyl with
5 Types of Fasteners Whenever fastening anything on the exterior face of the building, always use fasteners treated to resist water damage and discoloration. For all siding, this means galvanized nails of appropriate sizes. For vinyl soffit, this means electro-plated roofing nails. Never use interior fasteners (drywall screws, gold screws, staples, etc) on the exterior of a home. 16d Galv. (for siding trim) 10d Galv. Ringshank (for siding) Electro-plated roofing (for vinyl soffit and F-channel)
6 Installing Exterior Trim
7 When and Where? Exterior trim is always installed first. All siding butts up to and is notched around this trim. All exterior trim is installed using 16d galvanized nails. Some exterior trim pieces are connected together using smaller galvanized nails. Exterior trim is installed: Around all windows and doors At all interior and exterior corners As a horizontal belly board between stories and dividing two types of siding Directly under the soffit (sometimes) As a finished fascia board (sometimes) Wrapping porch beams, posts, and details
8 Windows and Doors 1x4 trim is used around all windows and doors (with only a few exceptions)
9 Single Windows 1) Install the bottom board first, cutting it tight to the corners of the vinyl flange of the window. 2) Then install the two side boards, measuring from the bottom corner of the installed bottom trim to the top of the window's vinyl flange. 3) Install the top board last, measuring from the top outside edges of the side boards. Trim pieces should always butt tightly into each other with no gaps between pieces.
10 Single Windows Install each piece using pairs of nails at each end and one pair of nails centered between. The nails closest to the window may catch the window flange underneath. Tip: If it bounces when you hit the nail head, pre-drill that hole through the vinyl so as not to risk breaking it. Avoid over-sinking these nails! Make sure the faces of each board line up at the corners to avoid any ugly overhangs. When all four pieces are installed, gently tap the nails at the corners until both boards are flush. Outside nails are easy to oversink, be careful not to set them uneven!
11 Double Windows Follow the same procedure: install bottom boards first, then sides, then top. The trim between the two windows may need to be ripped to fit. Tip: Do this last, so it doesn't delay volunteers siding around the rest of the window. Note: bottom board spans both windows.
12 Windows Exceptions: at Belly Board On some siding details, the bottom piece of 1x4 is replaced by the 1x6 belly board or other trim. Check with staff supervisor to see where belly board will be installed. This wider trim divides different types of siding between first and second stories. Most belly board is installed tight to the bottom of second-story windows. Side and center pieces butt into this belly board.
13 Windows Exceptions Some plans will call for a more detailed design around windows, including different materials for headers and sills. One common example: Whether a single, double, or double with flat panel always run capped headers and sills the full length of windows. This detail calls for a 1x6 header with 1x2 cap above window and a 1x4 sill with 1x2 cap below it. Capped headers extend 1 beyond vertical trim. Capped sills should be flush with vertical trim. Always flash these caps and leave a ¼ gap between flashing and vertical trim.
14 Doors No-step Entries Same as windows, except: On no-step (rolling entry) doors, there is no bottom piece of trim. Install the side boards first, measuring from the top corner to bottom corner of the brick mould. Because side boards match the height of the brick mould, this should create a ¼ to ½ gap between trim and concrete. If this gap is larger, check with a supervisor. You can use grout or concrete caulk to fill this gap, but do not use lumber.
15 Doors Stepped Entries On stepped entries, follow the same procedure (install side boards first). BUT: Measure from top of brick mould to concrete and subtract ¼. For the bottom piece: Measure the height (from bottom of brick mould to bottom edge of side trim) And the length (between the two side boards) ¼ This board is usually ripped from 1x6 or 1x8, depending on height. Make sure to install this piece tight under the threshold to help support it. Note: We usually install these pieces last because this bottom piece is more time-consuming to cut. This way, volunteers can continue siding on either side of the door while someone cuts and installs this piece.
16 Doors Best practices Pay attention to blueboard visibility at the gaps between door trim and concrete on porches. It s okay to see shiny flashing through this gap, but not blueboard. Always trim this blueboard back just high enough to be hidden by trim. Well done: nothing visible under gap. No one wants to see this blueboard.
17 Doors Exceptions Like windows, some houses may have different trim details at doors. One common example: Where this detail is adjacent to a flat panel and window, run door header continuous over both, notching header if necessary. This detail has a 1x6 header with 1x2 cap and flashing. Where this detail is adjacent to just a window, install separate headers.
18 Interior Corner Trim On interior corners, install a 1x2 tight into the corner. Use 1x2 (¾ x 3 ½ ) batten material or rip a 1x2 from 5/4 stock. Siding butts up to it and this trim is painted the same color as the surrounding siding, so it effectively disappears. Install with flat face (2 wide) facing front or back of home. Install using 16d nails about 2' apart. Interior corner trim butts into bellyboard or soffit trim at the top. Trim should hang ¼ lower than surrounding siding at bottom. Top of Trim Bottom of Trim
19 Exterior Corner Trim Nail two 1x4s together in an L using 8d galvanized nails, ensuring the outside edges are perfectly flush. Nails should be approximately 2' apart. Install corner trim tight to corner of house using 16d galvanized nails. Install 16d nails in line with 8d nails holding trim together. Be careful not to compress the blueboard and to secure evenly without any gaps on either side. The joint in this trim should always face the side of the house, never the front or the back. Front or Back of house Side of house
20 Exterior Corner Trim Trim should hang ¼ lower than adjacent siding. To ensure accuracy, mark on the side of the corner at the bottom at 8 ¼ (for 8 lap siding). Hold trim up so that this mark lines up perfectly with the first siding chalk line. Exterior corner trim almost always runs long. Belly board butts into it; soffit trim butts into it. Corner trim runs all the way up to soffit.
21 Exterior Corner Trim Exceptions Occasionally plans will call for bellyboard or other horizontal trim to wrap around a corner. In these cases: Bellyboard should be mitered at corners (not butt-jointed). Bottom corner trim should butt up tightly against bottom of bellyboard. Flash and tape bellyboard before installing top corner trim. Top corner trim should have ¼ gap above flashing.
22 Exterior Corner Trim When corner is taller than 16', always splice corners with staggered miter cuts. Note: You'll need to make these individual cuts before nailing boards together. The angle of the cut should point down and away from house, so that water can t drain into the gap if caulk fails.
23 Exterior Corner Trim Where exterior corner trim extends up to a birdbox and gable: Install corner trim first, and run it long. (This allows you to install siding without waiting on gable trim installation.) Install diagonal gable trim butting into this corner trim. Install F-channel on gable first, or leave a ⅝ gap above corner trim so that F-channel will fit later. Bellyboard butts into corner trim. Install F-channel under birdbox first or leave a ⅝ gap above corner trim so that F-channel and soffit will fit later.
24 Belly Board Most commonly, belly board is flashed 1x6 installed tight to the bottom of the second-story windows. No matter the style, belly board almost always runs short, butting tight into vertical trim. Install using pairs of 16d galvanized nails into every stud (or every 2 ).
25 Belly Board Where a wall is longer than 16', splice board with an overlapped miter cut centered on a stud. Use wood glue in this overlap and nail each end of each board into the stud (4 total at joint). You don t have to stagger the cuts (as shown). That s a little stronger, but much more difficult to install. Note: If bellyboard is installed directly on top of rimboard (between first and second floors) you don t have to worry about stud layout. Nails will hit framing of rimboard.
26 Belly Board Exceptions and Variations Some common variations to Belly Board: No matter the size or style of belly board, it will always need flashing sealed with tape. 1x6 with 1x2 cap and without it 1x12 with 1x2 cap and without it Always check with the site supervisor for these details!
27 Flashing on Trim All horizontal trim which will have siding directly above it needs to be flashed. This includes: Top trim on all windows Top trim on all doors All belly board Z-bar flashing should be cut to exactly the length of the trim. This flashing should not overhang trim.
28 Flashing on Trim Install using 10d siding or 16d galvanized nails every 2. Install nails close to the top edge of the flashing. Where trim is longer than 8, overlap pieces of flashing by 3. Always seal top of flashing to blueboard (or housewrap) with Tyvek/Weathermate tape. Ensure tape covers all nail heads, but do not install tape tight to bottom corner of flashing. You don t want that tape visible through the ¼ gap under siding/trim.
29 Flashing on Trim Under windows All horizontal trim that sticks out farther than whatever is on top of it needs flashing including any sill caps under windows. Run continuous flashing on caps under windows. (You ll need to cut the back flange off where window will sit.) BAD. GOOD. Don t join flashing under window. GOOD. BAD. WORST. Sills without cap don t need flashing. The cap under window will collect water and rot out. This entire cap will collect water and rot out.
30 Flashing on Trim Best Practices When installing flashing, make sure water will drain off of it not drain back or pool on top. Z-Bar flashing is not bent to 90 the back corner should sit slightly above the trim being protected. Do not press Z-bar flashing down onto cap, and don t oversink the nails attaching it the front will lift away and water will drain back towards house instead of away from it. Good. Flashing is angled correctly, draining water away from siding, and ¼ gap between flashing and siding prevents water from wicking into siding. Bad. This flashing directs water straight back to pool against trim and siding.
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