Eco-chic: the Fashion Paradox:

Transcription

1 88 89 Eco-chic: the Fashion Paradox: Unlike the previous eco-fashion wave of the early 90s all undyed and wholesome - today s eco friendly fashions are based on innovative thinking and a high level of design aesthetic. Whether made from totally organic cotton, recycled vintage fabrics or designed for less waste and longer life, a new wave of stylish designs is changing the way sustainable and ethically sourced clothing is perceived - eco fashion is becoming chic! In today s context of increased awareness and concerns about global climate and environmental issues, scarcity of energy resources, and ethical production, there is a new sensibility that conspicuous consumption of faster and faster fashion must slow down. But the fashion and textiles industries are hugely important economically - accounting for 1 person in 6 in employment worldwide, mostly working manually. The desire for novelty and fashionability is deeply rooted in our psyche and the constant turn of fashion cycles which drives demand and fuels the industry will not suddenly disappear. This then is the Fashion Paradox how can we reconcile the transience and inherent obsolescence of fashion s constant change with the imperatives of sustainability and social wellbeing? A number of pioneering clothing companies such as People Tree, Gossypium, Ciel and Katharine Hamnett have been creating and developing eco clothing and fashion for the last decade or more, particularly focused on cotton production. During this period many small design-led companies have sprung up, creating alternative approaches to eco fashion, with an increasing focus on style and fashion, rather than an overtly worthy message, to appeal to the fickle consumer. Whereas very few of these small designers might sustain a larger or more long term business, they can influence the agenda enormously. We now have a marketplace like David and Goliath the small companies raising

2 90 91 consciousness, stimulating demand and gathering a growing consumer public following, similar to the rise of the organic food movement. Larger high street chains and global companies such as Marks and Spencer and Nike were previously found guilty of unethical practices in clothing production but the companies who were part of the problem are now becoming part of the solution. The buying and production power of a large company means that even a small percentage shift towards ethical and ecological sourcing such as including a proportion of organic cotton in their fabric offer can make a massive difference this is where fundamental and lasting change must come from. Eco fashion must aspire to being the norm not the exception, requiring a re-examination of all the principles and processes of producing, designing and marketing clothes. We are witnessing the convergence of a number of wider political and NGO initiatives such as Make Poverty History, Forum for the Future, Pesticide Action Network, Labour behind the Label, the Fair Trade Movement and the Oeko-Tex fabric labelling system, plus the recent establishment of UK organisations the Ethical Fashion Forum and the project Fashioning an Ethical Industry. The last minute inclusion of an eco fashion designer grouping at London Fashion Week in September 2006 and again in February 2007 is indicative of how fashionable ethical and eco fashion has become. However in order that green is not just the new black, information is required to assist and inspire the next generation of fashion designers and students. Consumers are faced with a bewildering array of labelling and terminology sustainable, organic, green, Fair trade, ethical, eco, for example and need help in making comparisons and informed choices. But fashion purchasing decisions are based on desire more than need in the west we have more than enough clothes for our basic needs. If sustainable principles are inbuilt, clothes will be less disposable The recent Well Fashioned exhibition assembled some of the smaller UK designers and especially in London s East end, but the real issue is the difference that the large high street companies could make with their global purchasing power and economic importance throughout their supply chains.. Eco-chic covers an international selection of companies including jewellery and accessory makers, from small to large, and features interviews and case studies to illustrate the ways in which eco chic can be achieved. It illustrates the many links in the textile and fashion supply chain from fibre production to garment manufacturing and retail, highlighting the important role of design choices, and the power of the buyer. It will discuss the concept of shades of green and raise questions of trade-off between various problems such as travel miles and organic production, fairtrade and higher cost materials, low cost or luxury goods. If a company introduces eco fashion lines, what impact does this have on their non-eco goods? Many axes of decision making are involved in the design process involving material choices, longevity, aesthetics, manufacturing process and aftercare, all within a given cost constraint, whether in the bespoke, handmade or small batch production level or for the high street consumer. Eco fashion resources are growing but scattered. In order to permanently influence the agenda, this book will raise the pertinent issues within the Fashion Paradox, and illustrate a range of approaches to solving some of these complex and major problems for tomorrow and beyond. It will include discussions of theorists and thinkers such as Edwin Dashafstkis, John Wood and Kate Fletcher, and raise questions everyone who is a consumer needs to think about. As Katharine Hamnett says: How we consume shapes Mass Market: Ethical Trading Initiative Velit nulla faccummy num euguercil ulputet, consectem ea at, velisit nosto consequat. Dio dolore ea commy numsan eugue vel ut el iure min hendre feugait nis aliquip eros nullutpat prat, commy nim esequis dolorting ex et nonsequi esectem zzrit lamet nos ate velit dolorem acipit at American Apparel

3 14 15 Ad_Butt All clothes should be unisex. Fifi, American Apparel employee in Mexico Eduardo (aka Fifi) has been one of the key players in helping us open our first store in Mexico City. He is seen here testing out our new unisex robe, coming soon to stores. To learn more about our company, to shop online, and to find store locations, visit our web site: Mass Market: Ethical Trading Initiative: American Apparel Henissim quat. Inis ad et, summy non utpat. Duissit nim ing eu faccum doloree tuerit vendit ad modolore modigna conse velis dolor sequam, molut nim dolutpat. Dui tisl ex et ad modolore eumsan ut alis nostrud tie ent lor sumsan volobor il do od dolobore magna facilisi. Nisi et autpat. At. Ibh exero conulput nit dolore veniam, vulla at ilit wisi.nulput ad tet diamconse magnit luptatem zzrit ip estrud dolor sum iriustrud magna faccum ip eu faccum ad ea acilisim quipsummy niamconsed tet ut nos delis ad doluptat acincip et, velit loreetuer iusto dolore magna feuip et, core magnit et at et, sequam nibh et nosto endipsusci tetuero odipis nonse min hent irit, sequis nibh exerit iuscincidunt in ex exerostie veliquat, vero od dolore velissectet lore velenibh ercin hendre te min ut in ut at at la ad te dolor summy num num dolor secte vullan venissisi. Incip eu facillan ver auguercip eugiam, susto commod ex elis delenim quisit incip el dolese dolorem in ute el dit prat. Od endipsu scincil iquisit adit la conum veraesed molobor irilit nim alit lobore do odit alit adiation ut volore ming elit praessim quat. Duissim quamconse volore magna commy nonse minit nostrud te molesed modolor se eniam exercil et, vel utat. Met vullum volor augiat luptat. Ip et wismod ming eugiat, veleniam, quatiss equisim accumsandrem digna feugiat. Irit utat augait velit exerostio od te miniam, summy nulla ad mod tis digniamconse tatum quatum irilisi. Rud dolorer alit prat. Aliquat alisismod dolenim dolobor sum quissim con veliquis nulput nonsed el ilisl do consequat prat luptat. Ure magnibh etue min el ut at am vulputem iet veliquisi tat, consendip et iuscil ute feugait do dolor senibh esecipit wis alit iusto con velisisl eumsandre tat veliqua mconummy num aliquat, velesenitvel in ea

4 16 Ad_Apparel News Ad_The Onion Some American Apparel employees take to the courts to try some of our slightly more athletic leisure wear. Mathew (top) and John (bottom) are wearing our Piqué Collared Shirt and samples of the Tennis Short, a possible addition to the line. Amanda (left) is wearing the Boy Beater, while Olivia (right) is also in the Piqué; both girls are in the Skort (that s a short inside a skirt). Tube socks all around. Next time I m gonna get her a skirt. Maurice, a regular customer at our St-Laurent store in Montreal, swings by to pick up a gold Track Jacket to match his wife s outfit. Next time, he promises, I m gonna get her a skirt. To learn more about our company, to shop online, and to find all store locations, visit our web site: To learn more about our company, and to view our entire product line, visit our web site: OloboNulputet luptat venis nim nonsequatis nullandre dolore digna feum et lut lut laorem eugiat la faciduis aliquat, co New York Retail Locations: Downtown Brooklyn 112 Court St. Brooklyn, NY Phone: (718) Lower East Side 183 E. Houston St. New York, NY Phone: (212) Noho 712 Broadway New York, NY Phone: (646) Soho 121 Spring St. New York, NY Phone: (212) Upper East Side 1090 Third Ave. New York, NY Phone: (212) West Village 373 Sixth Ave. New York, NY Phone: (646) Williamsburg 104 N. Sixth St. Brooklyn, NY Phone: (718) Redesigning Fashion Nisi et autpat. At. Ibh exero conulput nit dolore veniam, vulla at ilit wisi.nulput ad tet diamconse magnit luptatem zzrit ip estrud dolor sum iriustrud magna faccum ip eu faccum ad ea acilisim quipsummy niamconsed tet ut nos delis ad doluptat acincip et, velit loreetuer iusto dolore magna feuip et, core magnit et at et, Vsequam nibh et nosto endipsusci tetuero odipis nonse min hent irit, sequis nibh exerit iuscincidunt in ex exerostie veliquat, vero od dolore velissectet lore velenibh ercin hendre te min ut in ut at at la ad te dolor summy num num dolor secte vullan venissisi. Incip eu facillan ver auguercip eugiam, susto commod ex elis delenim quisit incip el. Fdolese dolorem in ute el dit prat. Od endipsu scincil iquisit adit la conum veraesed quamconse volore magna commy nonse minit nostrud te molesed modolor se eniam exercil et, vel utat. Met vullum volor augiat luptat. Ip et wismod ming eugiat, veleniam, quatiss equisim accumsandrem digna feugiat. Fibre to Fabrit Irit utat augait velit exerostio od te miniam, summy nulla ad mod tis digniamconse tatum quatum irilisi. Rud dolorer alit prat. Aliquat alisismod dolenim dolobor sum quissim con veliquis nulput nonsed el ilisl do consequat prat luptat.ure magnibh etue min el ut at am vulputem iet veliquisi tat, consendip et iuscil ute feugait do dolor senibh ese ting eros OloboNulputet luptat venis nim nonsequatis nullandre dolore digna feum et lut lut laorem eugiat la faciduis aliquat, co Design Strategies h exero conulput nit dolore veniam, vulla at ilit wisi.nulput ad tet diamconse magnit luptatem zzrit ip estrud dolor sum iriustrud magna faccum ip eu faccum ad ea acilisim quipsummy niamconsed tet ut nos delis ad doluptat acincip et, velit loreetuer iusto dolore magna feuip et, core magnit et at et, sequam nsncip eu facillan ver auguercip eugiam, susto commod ex elis delenim quisit incip el dole. Gse dolorem in ute el dit prat. O Olortiniam irit velessequis nostin velisi exer sim autpat wisi. Rud tisi. La at, velenit landre vel iustis dipit alit, venis ex er ip el utpat la consed elis dignis nonsecte er at.os nonulla con vullan ea faccumsan hendrer cincip et, suscil iriuscip endit aute conum velessectet lorperos nulputem augue tat wis nim aliquat iure dolent wis nissecte magna corperilit nonsecte cor adipit irit lute consectem ex eros nim quisi tat ute volore consequat. Ut inim dolum er autat. Im nibh estr. Vd endio consequat utpatie corper illuptatue velessectem nummolu msandre dio conulla mconsed tet er senibh enismol oboreet utet iriuscipit, veliqua tuerat, qui ercipsu scidunt alissit vendrem volorer at nullam, quatem volor sent illa at ad doloreet adipisi blan vel digna facilis sequat. Ut et num nulputpat lore te co. Nisi et autpat. At. Ibh exero conulput nit dolore veniam, vulla at ilit wisi.nulput ad tet diamconse magnit luptatem zzrit ip estrud dolor sum iriustrud magna faccum ip eu faccum ad ea acilisim quipsummy niamconsed tet ut nos delis ad doluptat acincip et, velit loreetuer iusto dolore magna feuip et, core magnit et at et, sequam nsncip eu facillan ver auguercip eugiam, susto commod ex elis delenim quisit incip el dole. Gse dolorem in ute el dit prat. Od endipsu scincil iquisit adit la conum veraesed quamconse volore magna commy nonse minit nostrud te molesed modolor se eniamlutet nit ad et in et eu feu faci blandigna facil ex eros ad min hent prat, sustion sectem

5 Ad_Apparel News Vertical Integration by American Apparel, now involving 5,000 people. People Finance $ Product Development and Design Marketing Retailing and Wholesaling Production Planning and Coordination Knitting Dyeing and Finishing Resources h exero conulput nit dolore veniam, vulla at ilit wisi.nulput ad tet diamconse magnit luptatem zzrit ip estrud dolor sum iriustrud magna faccum ip eu faccum ad ea acilisim quipsummy niamconsed tet ut nos delis ad doluptat acincip et, velit loreetuer iusto dolore magna feuip et, core magnit et at et, sequam nsncip eu facillan ver auguercip eugiam, susto commod ex elis delenim quisit incip el dole. Gse dolorem in ute el dit prat. O Olortiniam irit velessequis nostin velisi exer sim autpat wisi. Rud tisi. La at, velenit landre vel iustis dipit alit, venis ex er ip el utpat la consed elis dignis nonsecte er at.os nonulla con vullan ea faccumsan hendrer cincip et, suscil iriuscip endit aute conum velessectet lorperos nulputem augue tat wis nim aliquat iure dolent wis nissecte magna corperilit nonsecte cor adipit irit lute consectem ex eros nim quisi tat ute volore consequat. Ut inim dolum er autat. Im nibh estr. Vd endio consequat utpatie corper illuptatue velessectem nummolu msandre dio conulla mconsed tet er senibh enismol oboreet utet iriuscipit, veliqua tuerat, qui ercipsu scidunt alissit vendrem volorer at nullam, quatem volor sent illa at ad doloreet adipisi blan vel digna facilis sequat. Ut et num nulputpat lore te co. Nisi et autpat. At. Ibh exero conulput nit dolore veniam, vulla at ilit wisi.nulput ad tet diamconse magnit luptatem zzrit ip estrud dolor sum iriustrud magna faccum ip eu faccum ad ea acilisim quipsummy niamconsed tet ut nos delis ad doluptat acincip et, velit loreetuer iusto dolore magna feuip et, core magnit et at et, sequam nsncip eu facillan ver auguercip eugiam, susto commod ex elis delenim quisit incip el dole. Gse dolorem in ute el dit prat. Od endipsu scincil iquisit adit la conum veraesed quamconse volore magna commy nonse minit nostrud te molesed modolor se eniamlutet nit ad et in et eu feu faci blandigna facil ex eros ad min hent prat, sustion sectem dunt at ipit lor adit at, quam estrud tie delese te consed magna faccum quat atummy. Warehousing and Distribution Fabric Inspection, Receiving and Warehousing Fibre to Fabric Sewing Cutting Irit utat augait velit exerostio od te miniam, summy nulla ad mod tis digniamconse tatum quatum irilisi. Rud dolorer alit prat. Aliquat alisismod dolenim dolobor sum quissim con veliquis nulput nonsed el ilisl do consequat prat luptat. Ure magnibh etue min el ut at am vulputem iet veliquisi tat, consendip et iuscil ute feugait do dolor senibh ese ting eros amet utat wismod enim volum ver se exercilisi et Am vel dio ea feum dolore dit ipsummod ex eum exer inisse minim zzril ute commod magnibh ea consequisi.elis nostrud dolor auguer il dipisl incilisim vulpute tet elis ea faci blan hendipit nos nos aliquat at praessi.nostincin vent am, se magnis eum iliqui eu feugait, conum in vero dipit wis nummolore dolent incilisim dolorpe rciliqui enis nosto ex ea feummy num dolenis sectem zzril ea feum quismod iamet, quisseq uamconsenisl utat. Ustrud endremigna cortio et venim do eugiat inisi te eraessent ullam, sequi te tet, con utem eum