LO G. NQ 9aj WAYFARER CRUISING LIB RARY. Subject R- 'r E1I 'CFv si
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1 LO G NQ 9aj WAYFARER CRUISING LIB RARY. Subject R- 'r E1I 'CFv si
2 C 24 Ws Books are to be returned on or before the last date below x us 0 -J taytcas'c%rtd9t.c.i
3 / BREHAT AND THE CHANNEL ISLANLS Dominic Bridgman 11 Station.Road Pinhoe Exeter (61974)
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5 WAYFARER 565 CHANNEL CROSSING 1990 My father bought W565 seventeen years ago, and I remember how she was fitted out by the previous owner for cruising. Jib sheets led through holes in the side deck, and such-like crude ideas. She had 'Pisces' painted on her transom in neat white lettering; this stayed until her first overhaul, when they were discreetly painted over and never replaced. We sailed on the Thames at Bourne End and in St. Bride's Bay in Pembroke once a year on family holidays. I had not sailed her since those days until two years ago, when Dad gave her to me. We took her down the coast to Dartmouth last year as our first go at Wayfarer cruising. On our first night we tried to roll up a beach just south of Teignmouth. We were swamped and holed the hull,; all our gear was soaked and in the morning we found the centreboard to be jammed. We had a great time after that, until several days later when, coming across from Babbacombe Bay, we broached with the spinnaker and snapped the rudder blade. After that season I took her back to the farm and worked on her during my spare time. I made good the hull where it had been damaged, and the fore and aft decks were de-laminating and so needed attention. I cut the rotten stuff out and filled with plastic padding. I didn't get much more done then until we had our first sail early in the Spring this year. We had a tremendous belt up and down the Exe estuary, which found out several weak points. The first being the jib, which came apart at the tack. None of the jammers was in the right place, both buoyancy bags took in water and the centreboard case was flexing and twisting in a most alarming way where it goes forward to the tabernacle at the foot of the mast. I ordered a new jib and took the boat back to the farm. The boat had been set up for racing and everything was inboard and Lncomfortable. She had a centre main and loads of unnecessary lines cleated under the thwart in real racey fashion. I put two fairleads on the side decks either side, bolted through and properly fixed. I've not had time to improve this system, but neither jib sets well. I'd be better off with just one fairlead about half way. I fixed the centreboard case to the tabernacle using two lengths of studding and penny washers inside and out, aa clamping it all together. We launched again at Easter, and from that time on I concentrated on getting ourselves and the boat ready for the France trip. Ted's sheep seem to lamb continuously all year round, and so his time is very precious. He managed to come down from Bristol about once every four weeks, and each time I would plan a different route for us to sail around. We would try to go out for at least twenty four hours, but didn't always manage it. Each time we would have new systems and ideas to try out and
6 evolve. We would try to improve as many aspects as possible. My objective was, (and still is), to be able to live on the boat and go anywhere in any weather in perfect comfort and safety. I bought the simplest gas camping stove and fitted it into a wooden box on gimbals, the burner level with the bottom of the box, and the bottle hanging down through the bottom, free to swing from side to side. This I bolted to the forward support of the port side deck, where it might be out of harm's way and be somewhat sheltered by the fore deck.. We tried lots of different stowage systems, again aiming for the impossible, in that we wanted everything to be secure and watertight and not in the way of the running of the boat, yet at the same time, immediately accessible. I had two spare rudder blades under the buoyancy bag in the front tank with the spare sails, emergency clothing and sleeping bag, just inside the hatch. Under the fore deck I fixed nets on elastic, one either side. The starboard one slung hammock style, in which we would keep things we would need often; i.e. R.D.P., jumpers, waterproofs. The port side net stretches down and clips just in front of the floorboard. I was concerned that stuff could be easily stowed so that, at all times, all the gear would be attached to the boat. Capsizing would be traumatic, righting the boat only to find all the gear missing could finish us off. Clothes were in plastic bags strapped around the sides of the cockpit under the side decks. Food, apart from tins, was in plastic watertight containers also strapped under the side decks. The navigation equipment -pens, log book, cigarettes etc.- was in a ten-litre ice-cream tub, strapped to the rear bulkhead, alongside a box of flares. In the rear tank, I had the anchor, drogue and warps strapped to the keel, all the spares -ropes, sheets, blocks in boxes, a haversack, the tool kit, ground sheet and two buoyancy bags. I also had two pieces of hard wood, a mast crutch (made at the last minute from a broom stick), a rowlock and a kite. The previous year, I had put slab reefing, with two rows of reefing pointe in the older of my two main sails, in case the system was unworkable. It did, however, work very well, my only concern being the distance between the rows. I wanted each slab to make a greater reduction in sail area. I took the newer mainsail to McNamara's and explained this. He happily put points in 3' apart rather than 2'6". He also let me have a set of old Cadet sails, which he strengthened on the corners. These would be my third reef, if you like. I would drop the main and lash it onto the boom and set the Cadet main loosefooted but pulled out along the boom by an outhaul. I would then need only one mainsail sheet system, and the boom and mainsail would stay out of the way. As yet, I've not had cause to prove this system. Probably just as well!
7 And so, two weeks before departure date, (now set at 2jL.t. August) we had a final 48 hour trip along the coast to Lyme Regis and back around the bay, and then brought the boat back to the farm. I had the hull to repaint, the rear deck to strengthen and seal, and I had to arrange the boat cover to be stowed on the fore deck, from where it could be rolled out over the boat. I put a red/green nav. light near the mast head. I ran the cablj outside the mast, held in place with Duck tape. I didn't have time to investigate the power source properly. I had thought to use a 12v. motorbike battery - small and re-chargeable - but I couldn't get hold of one in time. In the event, I lashed together two 6v. Ever Ready batteries, which lasted all of two hours before draining! I made up a drogue from a hessian potato sack, stitching rope into the seams and pleating it into a funnel shape. The build up became almost unbearable, with several sleepless nights, as I imagined all sorts of disasters and tried to solve them. These generally involved gear failure; bits breaking or pulling away, - the main traveller, the bow fitting, shrouds parting, halliards breaking, centreboard snapping, and so on. By 25th. August, I really felt that I'd done all I could to ensure a successfutl trip. I had a complete set of flares, and I borrowed a two-way radio. We comforted ourselves with the thought that she is a wooden boat, and should the worst come to the worst, at least there would be something left to hang on to! At an average speed of three knots, we would need 36 hours for the crossing. My main concern was the shipping lanes, which I wanted to cross in the daylight, so we planned to leave in the evening of 25th.. I bought a few last minute things - 10Oft. of strong line, a fog horn, a radar reflector, spare jammers and cleats, and two foam sleeping mats. In the way of food, we took enough tins for four days, plus bacon, jam, peanut butter, biscuits, bread, chocolate; and tea and coffee to drink, with proper milk! In future, I will take more care over choosing the tins. We became heartily sick of 'Big Soup' and Irish stew. The rice pudding was a life-saver on the way back.
8 1E3.3C,.d set sf- _ our u3ua_ nao;t2 vay, reefzng lines crossed, stuff a over the.tace, - -ar-ewsy mi;_ng,sme.oorec boats. The wind is 3-4 nortner_y, wnicr snoots us iown the :nas:el to t-e fairway buoy. Shoving off from the sailing club Heave to off the Bole Sands; the log is not working. The usual problem of weed clogging the sensor. This is a removable plastic turbine situated next to the keel beneath the rear bulkhead. I go over the side to replace it with the spare. Time ard again I've had to do this. The machine really is a great :isaccointmeflt Ore Stone bearing 230, about 2 miles. We heat some tins of stew, have a cup of tea ard eat some chocolate. I take the first off watch, anu turn in for a couple of hours. The wind is dropping. A Ted's watch. Heading south towards Berry Head.
9 22.10 Start Point 215 Berry Head 360 East Blackstone 235 Steering 180 I call up the coastguard on the hand set. I'm a bit stuck about identification; I refer to ourselves as 'Yacht Wayfarer' - Ted now goes off watch. There is very little a bit of a give-away! wind and all is calm. He strips off and gets into the sleeping bag. With his head up under the fore deck on the sail bag, and lying on both foam mats, he claims to be quite comfortable. I have a powerful torch to hand, and when any yachts or coasters come near, I shine the light up at the sails. I take avoiding action halfway through my watch for a coaster coming up astern. 26th. August High Viking moving to Denmark High Trafalgar stationary Dover Wight Variable 3; Moderate Port land Plymouth WSW 3/4. Showers Biscay NW 3/4 Ted's watch. I hand him the compass and brew up some tea, whilst he gets his bearings Start Point 270 Berry Head 003 This puts us about 7 miles East of the Start, 20 miles out of Exnouth. The log reads 7 miles. We must keep a visual record of our speed, or D.R. will be impossible The synopsis and forecast has not changed. We have a light northwesterly wind. Dawn finds us past the Start and outside the inshore shipping lanes. It is a lovely morning and the tenseness and anxiety of the day before has left me. I feel secure and at peace as we breakfast on bacon sandwiches and mugs of tea Start Point 355 Casquets 120 Roches Douvres 165 Steering 165 I bought an R.D.P. set second-hand in the Spring. It is a bit ropey, so I try to leave it fixed on the 280 Hz loop which includes the Start, Casquets and Roches Douvres. Progress is slow. After breakfast I turn in Start Point 345 Berry Head 360 These R.D.F. bearings differ dramatically with our D.R. position. We discuss where we might be, and decide to guess; 15 miles SE of the Start.
10 Gas jute -s We hiave a -iint nor-n the radar reflectsr e -ies anticipated. The on, y' no- r aaea j <sž foredeck. T doubt anaesaw *s. oa N~rw<:m~avr est. Drifting towardste shipping lanes.,3 00 Jersey The sun is hat and a~ tnc 3a.i.a;e l attempt to get - A GC 1600 ind wes- We oroasen -. e 5t C~ourse once. h*;' eabout
11 drinking tea, witr a fla. sea all to ourselves. The sleeping bag is aloft 'airing'.., ~ ~ ~ e jjntering the shipping lanes A sail appears way down to the south west. We watch it develop into the rig of a large yacht,vkich joins on a collision course with us. During the next hour we drift towards aea other and as it comes closer we see it is a Modern French yacht. Figures recline all over the deck, and the cockpit is crowded. He comes closer and closer until I have to turn sharply to the west and fly the sheets. We gawp at them and they gawp at us add.- a languid hand is raised before they sheet in and head north west. Now the wind blows fresher from the west, so we sit up and have a lovely l ~~s-!ll the.-- nemi SOM,2howB sail making 31-4 knots jersey?ast 110 it Bricuc Jersey 105 tannion 210 Stearing 200 We see the Rloches Douvres light as the dusk gathers, bearing 148. would like to go south around Roches :)ouvre, but the wind has moved SW and as the evening draws on it becomes clear that we will not make it. The tide will set 3 knots to the east at dawn, so 1 decide to) go north around Ne cross over tedirect line between ~-es Hanois and Roches L;ouvre. Iwakey and from th,9 Z'½-or o)f the boat, where I'm snug in. a sleeping bag I can l-ook. up into the crystal clear- n½',ht and watch the stars dancing little loops in ti~me to the motion of the boat. I see the beam of the Roches Louvre lignt as it sweeps over head. 2ed is 27th Auwust, 31.0 tired from the glar-e and turns in. Ne --ire non 2nly four miles nortn of the k~och-es.>ouvre lig~ht <mna it i illlltn 1151 eem ave l. atar rt
12 -0 r ;ar--arle 3. IM, -ara lariabie- SOUZj- dawn ye -,jser z r3und -,-c ---Ouvre -in. 4e are now aeac--,ng i, w-th a kno Nind 's J, c Ne are z U z z c c tn a c erno u - c u iat e,u e nc r X any 3 rwi z e -j,ye pass close to smooth natc-es of water, -,resuniab-,y za,-sce cy Upsurges as f-om lne roc.,s -ac<.a.mist 'a a s-.arc. Ve Sisr-Jc-Jous-:y down Inti sl-:cy, nac. vatanu -.ive :)urs.--ves -.- c geed5 es. Ve see -,he weszerij --aru-na- ~,ne -orth.the zoast is clear anu Ne iuer..i-j I-C -e BrehaT but now 'he wind out --o:r,--letely. 4e 1011 swimming, doz-t., anu catinr by 11.0C -..-e cockpit is a mass of instowed gear, ancl 'n c icc,.s anu fu" of clothes 'a-'ring'. ic have a great clean and tidy up- take -.Q zie A tle S-11. -ne a-eau 4e!a -orain -n njr,- an- now Ne have uassewi_nd --omes back and we can saa- aza.--. -G.- eux river 7;assJ-i?, very n :nrcer -es Nnic- -as a Na;er nr-3 j,-z -)WS a very -'he -,cas. s -L-, N, 'laie S3-e S U tye -,n Ynl-, J--r 1-J"V _h J- r
13 -ac.-c U' a 7 "ee a rocc 'ree -,--ach -i-on xe r,,ri around. led nas dze--sea ui ready fir a j leave. osedo de Er-nat.
14 R,,: 5', ~ ca 44 i 1 1.,2 9 IT ~ E. T~ G \ "bkm N.H R& 4 8, f~ 23 PwE UDE w EM Ln m p" DES ;i AQ t:. 1.. A "j PyTitAU DC i,. 29 Qbj. ' WCHAUD.5 ZkHZ 5a 1 :L 2... Seq OM, i. T9... : *CH t BANCS C6'. P4 P BR 7, ri 2 RIN U GUE Y7 O M.1- *XwR 4, 011G RG )6 2J 12 DE 2314c6 61Y L pi 30 TRE a C,(Pb d. P~ D. WIR&Istlim,... a L q 5 AN'SE PAEM POL+ 16 R ` -D's 5\ 9 i 1OR. v~ 9\ p 14 20: R. c d. PLATEAU 0 :i2.. j ;4. 26 b Akt Ir 1 7 R~ 16 : '.- 1 w % do : G1 PI... 2J 2 ECHAYDES -2 T-; 7;.1 ;6 Lay E~ ;,S.. 1,, % 6 1, PA de 22 _7.: 1 J 12 id'.: 71
15 We didn't suenc ling on the island, Just enougn time to rind a shop and a telephone. It seems a semi-tropical place with ipruce ard "alm trees, lots of pi&resque cottages ard masses of sight seers but suprisingly little noise. We were both suprised at the ease o- the crossing and felt we should carry on while the going was good. High tide was at midnight so we decided to leave then and make use of tihe ebb to get away from the coast. The mainsheet cleat on the tiller needed re fixing, but apart from that all was well Neither of us can sleep so we set off as soon as the boat is afloat. There is no wind and we row against the flood but as we get out into the Pontrieux river it is obvious that there is no point in going on. We turn back into la Corderie and tie along side a fishing boat moared in the channel. 2Bth August ILE de BREHAT - GUERNiEY We wake much refreshed and we still have two hours of tide with us. The wind is a very light south westerly as we steer 030 from the Pontrieux river Darnings of gales in Bailey and St Iceland. Dover Wight Portland Plymo ith Variable 3/4. Fair Position about 8 miles north of Brehat. The wind has died completely and we have a tide running at 3 knots SE. Ve break out the oars and row north Visibility is dowr to three miles and we have been set ie with the tide, but now the wind returns from the west,force 2-3 and we can sail again We pass between the Bernouic plateau and it's westerly cardinal. My charts are plastic coated and with the chart on my knee and using a Breton plotter,which is nice and bendy, I can plot bearings anc lay off a course whilst I stear with my foot Portland Variable 3 - SW 4 pair. Plymouth V Once past Roches Douvres t'ne wind picks up from the north west and during the afternoon it veers more and more northerly until it comes east of north. 7e have a lovely sail during the afternoon steering 045 until we are due west of Jersey A good fix puts us 13 miles due south of St martins point and we turn onto the starboard tack and steer 340. With the tidal stream setting NE in about one hours time we should head due north. We see a lot of activity as night comes on. A whole fleet of fishing boats over to the east; a mass of lights, and the lights of a few yachts and the ferry. During the evening the wind siowl; backs to the north and then west of north. We have Les Hanois and St martins Lights to g ide us, and we can see the loom of doches Douvres behind us. Ye sail in -he wnite sector of it Jartins and
16 i 2 e j,.e 2 eu, S 2c j J ar In S S s S I cj f a suddeti and a- 7er,- ie '-w of favourr,.'e tide so we -ac& craw- ar)uni -sur- :r.. 29ti Au4us-...YaAe -Ii fl-d us '--eca-med. oreat srin,7 )f -- e Yes-. S' rez ch s ror-,:,,, shor- -Ine o.' Guernsey, anc, -,ne dar.; f Herm -jqms C ose jf t-e s-arooar- cow. Ter. is cinc -,r-iecl. abou-1 the njse J wa-eras' ro--.,s gf-' 'ne starbiaro. side and 1 can Just make ju, -'ar, blobs low,in -.- c sea as we come into a wes-e-' --,-rs-. '2a had -- c ::ers--e-tve ~y ond. was shocked w'rien -- ident'-f-'ed -zer -ort as a sma-- darm: sloz tne of!-'.7h-.s -G -me vesz. at -.,.e chars njw I we naa --r'-f'ed -1.owards -es Earbees ard irosse Ferr-iere - -Ine 3f roc-,s sou-h.f 1-e-iou and Herm. ie row-sail across zo j' Peler 2 3 c haro-our -,atroi boaz 2omes 3ut 'lo us as we en-,-r -,he -.ar-uu.-. H'e.7 helpful and tows us into a be-th in the marina, -,c-jn-7 a,usoms e ry ~ across before 1-e iena--ts. 7-z-r 'ort Jarina.
17 so W at [ER ik) m 48-4f A 4.3 3( do ijlto 21 4b t a : C ; Q).,: D 41 W -IGd ` (7) is. 01* 10 R 28 12' R ,1 PEI'ER fon GY 10M. no,~ 1 trnoflu TO (FRI2D^) ST. PET C. 4,5 POR Fl G U E R N S ':,SA R K WAER GUERNSE F. Pt RC 361'0 GUR 30M L~ JIBRECwou PL (60) SW J; 34 bi 26 A ' vp so 6.:" hi
18 Ve iiiu i-e is -1n: xti u an- I-- we 'fl _ave 'ro- tz 'he Nas, a easterl; 3x,, ye nar t a,,cn a o,. a. Ne Ne-e -n-, "e-jr" is rest,-,- ---tre very sz:all and -.as an zy ::ie ride was e'qo-nj fas-1 s Ne r)a j,,i 2 e c"-a--ne etween ani jet,-,,)u. -"-,e s:y nas bec-me )ver -as- a-- an e a'=0sj..ere v-ary numid ard now Neaz----- brea..cs Ni-1h ownpour aiin -.ne N-,rz 2-c,s in :o a 6 -,,ie norti vest. Ve loredec.,c the boat over us ariz t sai- t tr,f ajain -. n:7,orrow. it. -ave a rea sa-4- anot r 2- i-rong,,.irren Ru S S e In rowaras
19
20 t J 2el JO Z 'i JV Z' 1 1 Ven :la J U no -f-'jrzersu_-_, ne tinat J S t ay -:.1 -ete- Yas a as, a"u real we Sno-l-u maae use )f =IS prolinjec szay see ar-,c. :ha,v--nu Nazs.3t-- )owl-4 :iarz :_-J=. ne allu N fe Yas idea- sez Off. :ec, Yas asleep ar.- t z m -,ec-,s.in ins-ead lrusteli O '1112 Sreng-5n t,' r e N:- Na c ing u p -1 j f ind 1- i m s e i f sea. a very bust!-'nf sor, o: -a mar -.,ia U ac- Willn WISC from -,;,e Stred, ana f-jo,- --zhts hat en---nce se-se of -.creat, and i-.,ias a n=eat sense )f.- at az 'M shoved off. Ve R-4ueci serene' 'ju-. Of -nlj -2 narnour wnere 'Ulle na-lrol boat came ou- -.Q sa., i heaued Jouth and 'e(i sorce a--out, a out as -,he a, e boat develoned ar,d 1 was now riddled wizh Ruilt as 1 witnesseu nim,-,o lhrou17.h anger anc dejection in -..- e space of several minutes. 1 had qu-e a Joz of zo do 1 -_-e,le _'I'll slic11 WC 'eided saull'n unuer jib alone xhist 1 pickee, up ara ld c n t Ifie(l -ac les laro-s and it :ila-rt-4ns olus 7,-e eas-1 snore iine O' uernsay hic- Is very brignt, and zhe Great Russel cnannel markers Snoc& 'Noir and 1Jorbet Uu ---ezi. As we Ineaded 3ou-,h the tde -.ook us Cast urt' ve nad -.--aveled some miles.3se of J la--lins. Here we founu -,he edge o-l',l,ier-seys, StloaGw nu We saled SE alirg lne j' ner seas u,-,cn,1ijsseu as they droke- ana ra-n aown into our stern quarter. At,x-nu,--:z-nsned Ne put na-n ul, anc heacen 4e hau, a Sai las sun rsse 'Ne rouncea south )f jark and.,,assed severa- yac-.-,s in 1-ce. We Oicked uz a,nooriri7, jus- ou-s-,e narbour, amongsz totts, az o7.j"c.
21 Sa.x - szcutb_ 30th. August We rowed into the harbour at mid-day and made use of :ne shower ard telephone. We had tiea aiongside a Prenon noat full of Bretons, who like nothing more than to sing and play the bagpizes. Wie rowed back to the moorings to get some sleep The general synopsis is unsettled. A low pressure system is moving away through Rockall. Wind NW 5. We had two reefs in the main and the small jib up as we sailed off, heading north and a bit west. We have six hours of SW tide miles south of the Casquets. The visibility is very good; I can see Alderney, Cap de la Hague, Guernsey and Sark. The seas are breaking and the swell is quite steep. Ted takes the jib down and pulls it over himself as he turns in to get some sleep. The boat rides the seas very well. I watch a crowd of large anvil clouds develop in the west an& bear down on us until we are surrounded by a fleet of ten, their keels hanging very close. I'm convinced it must be a portent of something, but nothing happens, and they disappear into the darkness behind The Casquets are now close abeam. We have a brew up and I turn in I'm woken by a shout from Ted, and as I sit up, the first thing I see is a ferry just a mile off, coming up astern. I don't have time to say very much before he rounds the Casquets and heads up the channel towards Portsmouth. The wind is still NW 5, and the visibility is excellent. We are making fine progress. 31st. August We arrived early at the shipping lanes, and crossed the first in the dark. There was no need to alter course as we passed quite close behind one ship - about one mile off - and well ahead of the next Dawn. Towards the separation zone. We pull the Jib back up We are about 20 miles due north of the Casquets, in the westerly bound shipping lane, sheeted in hard and trying to head 315. A freighter comes out of the east on a collision course. We track him with the compass, and when he is a mile off, we turn 90 to starboard and pass him at half a mile distance. I would not like to be any closer! We have been sailing hard all morning and we have to heave-to to heat u9 tins of stew and rice pudding. I don't get a proper fix. The only beacon I can pick up is Jersey, but at least this puts us on a good course for Sxmouth A trawler passes us ahead with his nets down. ie pass at about 500 yards. It is a comforting sight, making us feel close.o h.ome.
22 _~~~~~~~~~~~~~ls enzugn.i We sight Bortland Bill on our starboard beam, ara realise tnat we still have quite a long way to go..e ease off a bit, so we carn ger c_oser in. Now the wind backs round to the west some more, arnd we can steer 285. Ve have a fabulous sail. Ced sits up on the side deck with one _ee over, and I lie across the back of the cockpit, weuged in, holding the tiller or. my lap, and she sails like a cru.ser. Sne rides the waves Nonderfully at a steady 7 knots Ne iaentify _yme Begis about 1C miles to the nortn. Ne are still maintaining speed. t.oo ;ie shake out.ne reefs ana c.-arge to the big jib as tne wina siac ens..s we c_osea the coast, ccc NISJ iheaded us, pushing us downr to 8uo eigr. calter-on ana we get set nto and C>rcomone _tart J' 2ztlena:: 3ay.,e tac. out rouna Itraight -oint oint ano nrie xina cegins to.ie out aitogether. Cf-- the promenade -ne Ncna aies almost comp. letely. There is tie incoming tlce wxicn orifts us s_owly past -he narocur. 22.3C _and at the sai_ir.g cub. just the
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