Published by Time Out Magazine Ltd Universal House, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB Tel 020 7813 3000 Fax 020 7813 6001 www.timeout.com Acting editor Mark Frith Guide editor Laura Lee Davies Sub editors Claire Hills, Lewis Lyons Contributors Jakki Phillips, Bella Todd Design Lisa Buirski Illustration Christian Tate Picture research Kim Seymour, Abigail Lelliott Group production director Mark Lamond Production manager Brendan McKeown Time Out Magazine Ltd is part of the Time Out Group: Chairman Tony Elliott Chief executive officer David King Magazine managing director Mark Elliott Group general manager Nichola Coulthard Online managing director David Pepper Guides managing director Peter Fiennes International managing director Cathy Runciman Printed by Ancient House Printing Group, Ipswich IP2 0HA Contents 4 Explore Brighton & Hove 6 Brighton icons 7 Shopping 10 City sights 12 Active 13 Beside the sea 14 Kids 15 Festivals 18 Festival calendar 19 Eat & drink 22 Museums & galleries 24 Performance 26 Nightlife 27 LGBT scene 29 Where to stay p8 p13 This is a product of Time Out Brand Solutions: Derek Pratt 020 7813 6008 Simon Best 020 7813 6309 James Caley 020 7813 6040 Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2009. All rights reserved. All information was checked at time of going to press. The publisher and the organiser cannot be held responsible for any errors. Brighton Visitor Information Centre Royal Pavilion Shop, 4-5 Pavilion Buildings, Brighton BN1 1EE Tel: 0906 711 2255 (calls cost 50p per minute at standard rate) Email: brighton-tourism@brighton-hove.gov.uk Web: www.visitbrighton.com Twitter: https://twitter.com/visitbrighton VisitBrighton is part of Brighton & Hove City Council WWW.RICHARD ROWLAND.CO.UK 2 www.visitbrighton.com
WWW.RICHARD ROWLAND.CO.UK Welcome There is always something new to bring home from a trip to Brighton and Hove What does Brighton mean to you? A regular haunt for a weekend s clubbing, or your fond memory of a romantic getaway? Or is it your favourite shopping spot when you want to escape the Oxford Street hordes? Even if you ve never been to Brighton or Hove before, the cosmopolitan arts scene, the charm of the Lanes, the vibrant nightlife and, of course, the wide open spaces of the beach can always offer a brand new experience to take home with you. Getting to Brighton Brighton is less than an hour away From Victoria, Southern Trains will get you to the coast in as little as 51 minutes, with up to four departures an hour. The connecting service to Hove takes less than five minutes, but there are also Hove services direct from London (www. southernrailway.com) First Capital Connect also runs trains to Brighton, with departure points throughout London, including St Pancras International, Farringdon, City Thameslink, Blackfriars and London Bridge. (www.first capitalconnect.co.uk) Brighton Station www.visitbrighton.com 3
Explore Brighton & Hove City living and beach life shops, galleries, bars, live shows and open spaces. Hove The town houses and mews of Hove bustle with interesting little shops and bars, and there is a distinctly refined feel to this area of the city. Seek out delicious deli food, regular market days and indie traders along its avenues. Map not to scale Beachfront Whether you re strolling along the promenade or stretching out on the long pebble beach, the seafront which rolls all the way along Brighton and Hove offers a chance to unwind and kick back. However, for those who can t stay still for five minutes, there are a wealth of watersports and other outdoor activities here. 4 www.visitbrighton.com
The Lanes The independent boutiques, bars and restaurants give the charming alleyways of The Lanes their unique appeal. Find everything here, from erotic accessories to original modern art. North Laine The funky North Laine has a distinct vibe which rises from its mix of vintage shops, laid-back cafés and little studios selling locally made crafts. Kemp Town The 18th-century architecture of picture postcard Brighton gives Kemp Town a grand physical presence, while the lively gay community adds to this quarter s bohemian atmosphere. Indeed, across Brighton and Hove you ll find a thriving club, theatre, comedy and music scene. Brighton Pier An icon of the British seaside, the Victorian Pier offers all the fun of the fair, fish and chips and that must-have stick of rock Brighton Marina There s nothing like a row of yachts to make you feel like you re hanging out with the (water)jet set. Enjoy waterside cafés or simply head for bargains at the Marina s shopping centre. www.visitbrighton.com 5
Mustsee icons Enjoy Brighton s favourite famous sights The Royal Pavilion Take a tour through the extravagance, eccentricity and Indian fantasy of the Royal Pavilion, built for George IV by John Nash in 1815-23. Pavilion Gardens, BN1 1EE (03000 290900) Tea at The Grand Enjoy the live pianist and watch the strollers on the promenade from the windows of the splendidly ornate Victoria Lounge. The Grand Hotel, 97-99 Kings Rd, BN1 2FW (01273 224300) Brighton Pier/West Pier Two historic piers: one in the neon-lit prime of life, the other reduced to a wreck by fire and tide. See the murmurations (best in Nov/Dec), when flocks of starlings come to roost at dusk. Duke Of York s cinema See a film at this 99-year-old cinema, notable for its eclectic programme not to mention the giant can-can dancer s legs on the roof. Preston Circus, BN1 4NA (01273 818549) Hove Lawns and Beach Huts Take a book, a frisbee or just take a walk past the ranks of painted huts which line the tranquil Hove Lawn beach. Sea Life Centre Aquarium The world s oldest aquarium is still one of the best. It also has an underwater walk-through tunnel to wow the kids. Marine Parade, BN2 1TB (01273 604234) WWW.RICHARD ROWLAND.CO.UK, VISITBRIGHTON, SCOTT WISHART, ABIGAIL LELLIOTT 6 www.visitbrighton.com
The Lanes Art at Five Snap up affordable contemporary artworks from local talent at this excellent gallery. 5 Bartholomews, BN1 1HG (01273 774222) Shopping Sydney Street, North Laine Brighton s shops have everything, from champagne lifestyle to cheap and cheerful Baroque Bespoke Jewellery Vivienne Westwood sits alongside up-and-coming designers in this luxury jewellers, which has its workshop and elegant Victorian-style presentation cases on show. A real treat. 9 Union St, BN1 1HA (01273 777003) VISITBRIGHTON, GRAHAM FRANKS Like London, Brighton is made up of several urban villages, each with their own distinct atmosphere. But their proximity means you can take in everything froma champagne boutique in Hove to an edgy art shop in Kemp Town in a couple of days window-shopping. Even the warren of streets that make up the city centre divides into two very different areas. The bohemian North Laine (www.uniquebrighton. com) has stores selling retro furniture and beads, and clothes shops serving every fashion taste except mainstream. The Lanes, though still alternative in spirit, have a more cosmopolitan feel, with a cluster of jewellers too. Nearby Churchill Square has high street stores. Continue on Western Road into Hove for more upmarket shops and delis. The Sunday Market, by Brighton station, has antiques, clothes and bric-a-brac, and there s a Fairtrade market at the Friends Meeting House (Ship St, BN1 1AF, 01273 675778) every third Saturday. Art at Five My favourite place is the historic St Ann s Well Gardens in Hove. This park has everything bowling green, tennis courts, sensory garden, play area and a fantastic café. John SHOPPING www.visitbrighton.com 7
First Light This photography gallery has been going for 25 years. It has an in-house printer and a massive selection of prints including local landmarks. 3 Nile St, BN1 1HW (01273 327344) Rounder Records Norman Cook used to work at this fiercely independent, nationally respected record shop, where you can buy gig tickets and collectable vinyl as well as picking up the latest CDs. 19 Brighton Square, BN1 1HD (01273 325440) Chris MacDonald Last Last Handmade, bespoke footwear in an oldfashioned The Elves and the Shoemaker - style setting, with over 50 designers, and original accessories ranging from socks to neck ruffs. 3 Pool Valley, BN1 1NJ (01273 777141) Frames in the Lanes Putting the spectacle into spectacles, this chandelier-bedecked boutique sells designer glasses and sunglasses, including ultra-chic Chrome Hearts eye jewellery. 12c Meeting House Lane, BN1 1HB (01273 747769) She Said She Said Classy erotic boutique and corset specialists selling top lingerie designs and luxury toys, in a wonderfully clandestine-looking alley. 11 Ship St Gardens, BN1 1AJ (01273 777811) North Laine The Brighton Bead Shop All about beads and ways of stringing them together, this store is an essential stop-off for creative types. 21 Sydney St, BN1 4EN (01273 675077) Chris MacDonald You re encouraged to touch as well as look at the quirky sculptures created from discarded objects in MacDonald s touchy-feely gallery. 93 Gloucester Rd, BN1 4AP (01273 601639) CHRIS MACDONALD, WWW.RICHARD ROWLAND.CO.UK 8 www.visitbrighton.com
WWW.RICHARD ROWLAND.CO.UK, DAMIEN O HARA North Laine Emma Plus This is an excellent womenswear shop dedicated to larger sizes with the emphasis on style and workable fashion as well as great shapes. 16 Church St, BN1 1RB, (01273 327240) Jaba Yard Natural fabrics and organic cottons mean Jaba Yard s pretty womenswear is stylish and eco-friendly. 18 Bond St, BN1 1RD (01273 623244) Jump the Gun Buy badges for your scooter or get fitted for a mohair suit by the splendidly coiffured staff at this custodian of Brighton s mod heritage. 36 Gardner St, BN1 1UN (01273 626777) Lavender Rooms A silk- and scent-filled shop suggestive of a country lady s boudoir, where the staff can help source vintage pieces. For a touch of romance you can pick up floaty nightwear or a string of butterflies to garland your dressing table. 16 Bond St, BN1 1RD (01273 220380) Snooper s Paradise Vintage clothing, period furniture, retro toys and kooky artwork. Enjoy a rummage for anything and everything in this permanent, sprawling flea market. 7-8 Kensington Gardens, BN1 4AL (01273 602558) Snooper s Paradise Fashionista s weekend Sat 10am Seek style inspiration at the Brighton Museum s Fashion Gallery (p22) before heading to the North Laine, where shops sell everything from vintage frocks to design-it-yourself jewellery. 2pm People-watch from an outdoor table at English s in the Lanes (p19), then delve into the maze of designer boutiques. 7pm Survey the yachtchic of Brighton Marina then enjoy fusion food among the petal-strewn Moroccan cushions of restaurant and nightclub Karma (01273 818000), with DJs until 2.30am. Sun 11am Chill out with a massage at The Treatment Rooms (01273 818444) in the North Laine, then sip cocktails at the nearby merkaba at myhotel (p29). SHOPPING www.visitbrighton.com 9
City Sights Take a tour around Brighton s ancient and modern buldings and public art Brighton s buildings take you on a magical history tour from the moment you pull into the grandly arching Victorian railway station to the rows of Regency town houses. Modernism gets a lookin via Embassy Court, a Grade II listed concrete apartment block. Art deco rules at Saltdean Lido, while you can t miss the high-rise monument to 60s design, Sussex Heights. More recent additions include the Jubilee Library, its ecofriendly glass frontage the impetus for chic new developments around Jubilee Square. The city s religious heritage provides rich architectural pickings, from the towering gothic revivalism of St Peter s Church to the golden columns of the ornate Middle Street Synagogue. Open-air art ranges from commissioned sculpture (Bruce Williams s seafront Kiss Wall ) to the originally uninvited but now treasured graffiti art by Banksy, whose Kissing Coppers (above) on Trafalgar Street is shielded under Perspex. Embassy Court Wolfram Löhr Lovingly crafted, faintly nostalgic leatherwork, from characterful shoes to sturdy satchels, distinctive cuffs and belts and even a travel chess set. Non-leather items for the tasteful gent include handkerchiefs and Italian umbrellas. 28 York Place, BN1 4GU (01273 722028) Vegetarian Shoes Robin Webb s hippy mecca now exports its products all over the world. His shop carefully sources and sells everything from sandals to hiking boots, all made without a single scrap of leather. 12 Gardner St, BN1 1UP (01273 685685) Hove City Books Fantastic, cosy independent bookshop with a lively local-interest section and its own independent-store loyalty card! City Books also organises author events, often with major writers, at the nearby Old Market. 23 Western Rd, BN3 1AF (01273 725306) BANKSY - VISITBRIGHTON, VISITBRIGHTON 10 www.visitbrighton.com
WWW.RICHARD ROWLAND.CO.UK, NATALIE PECHT Ocean Sports Board Riders The UK s leading seller of boards for snow and surf has a vast array of watersports equipment and an infectious spirit of adventure. 368 Kingsway, BN3 4QT (01273 412241) Sweet Boutique Indulge a sweet tooth and childhood nostalgia at this retro sweet shop. 172 Church Rd, BN3 2DJ (01273 732169). Also in Kemp Town at 106 St James s St, BN2 1TP (01273 677281) The Toast of Brighton & Hove If you re feeling decadent try these champagne specialists selling everything from your Moëts to your Cristals, plus fancy flutes, Baroque Bespoke Jewellery stoppers and ice buckets to go with. 40 Church Rd, BN3 2FN (01273 208180) Kemp Town Alex MacArthur A three-storey Regency house-cum-showroom filled with dramatic homeware, from Venetian mirrors to stone eagles. 101 St George s Rd, BN2 1EA (01273 607533) Treasure Island Toys Fight the plastic! This store sells traditional and wooden children s toys imported from all over the world. 3 Morley St, BN2 9RA (01273 677748) Amorous weekend Sat 12noon Have a champagne and oysters brunch at Riddle & Finns on Meeting House Lane (p20), then win your partner a love token on Brighton Pier. 4pm Head back to the Lanes and share a decadent cake at Bar du Chocolat (01273 329462) before picking up a Love Hamper (complete with Kama Sutra playing cards) at erotic boutique She Said (p8). 7pm-2am Dine and dance at The Hanbury Club (p26), before crashing out at drakes hotel (p29), where you can view Brighton Pier from a roll-top bath in a bay window. Sun 2pm After a lovely long lie-in, test the balcony sofas at the Duke Of York s cinema (p6) and visit the temple of love that is the Royal Pavilion (p6). SHOPPING www.visitbrighton.com 11
Active Zip, zoom, crash and splash your way around Brighton s sports and activities Orb360/Board360 Be strapped inside a giant ball and tumble half a mile downhill at 30mph. Each Orb carries two people, 25 per roll, with a second roll for half price. You can also have a go on a mountain board (a chunky-wheeled oversized skateboard). Off Devil s Dyke Rd, BN1 8YJ (08456 434360) Hire a scooter or bike Be a mod for the day and rent a scooter from Vroom By The Sea. Prices start at 15 per half day for a Piaggio Zip 50 or 29 per half day for a Vespa. Pedal bikes from M s Cycle Hire can be delivered to you, 15 per day. Vroom By The Sea, 3a Queens Place, BN3 2LT (01273 772222); M s Cycle Hire (07852 986165) SIM Lounge Play golf on 73 international courses at this simulated golf venue. 5 Mermaid Walk, Waterfront, Brighton Marina, BN2 5WA (01273 651011) Yellowave Watersports Brighton is a playground for watersports, with everything from sea kayaking to diving, sailing, windsurfing, wakeboarding and the popular sport of kitesurfing the sea is often dotted with guys and girls on boards being powered up and down the coast by brightly coloured kites. Training is offered in all these sports. Sailnet UK, 12 Western Concourse, Brighton Marina, BN2 5UP, (01273 628648); Lagoon Watersports, Kingsway, BN3 5LX, (01273 424842); The Brighton Dive Centre, 37 Waterfront, Brighton Marina, BN2 5WA, (01273 606068); J B Kitesurfing (07970 651222) Yellowave The UK s first year-round beach sports venue has WWW.RICHARD ROWLAND.CO.UK, SCOTT WRIGHT/ YELLOWAVE 12 www.visitbrighton.com
Vroom By The Sea Beside the sea Make the most of a stroll along the Brighton and Hove seafront WWW.RICHARD ROWLAND.CO.UK, VISITBRIGHTON six sand courts for football, handball, volleyball, rugby, ultimate frisbee, footvolley and beachminton. There s also a climbing wall for kids. The less energetic can spectate from the Barefoot Bar/Café. 299 Madeira Drive, BN2 1EN (01273 672222) Up, up and away Go up in a light aircraft or helicopter for a beautiful flight along the coast and over the South Downs. There are two operators based nearby at Shoreham Airport. Brighton Scenic, Terminal Building, Shoreham Airport, Shoreham-by- Sea BN43 5FF (07918 902721); Helifly, Hangar 4, 3 Cecil Pashley Way, Shoreham Airport, Shorehamby-Sea BN43 5FF (0800 756 9610) Jump on the historic Volk s Electric Railway at the Sea Life Aquarium station near Brighton Pier and ride east along the seafront to the Marina for shopping, a bite to eat or just to admire the yachts. Then walk west (you may want to avoid the nudist beach), stopping at Yellowave for beach sports or the crazy golf course for old-fashioned fun. Continue to Brighton Pier for funfair rides, arcade games and karaoke, then descend to the beach and head west past bars, clubs, restaurants and galleries. Pop into the Fishing Museum for a dip into maritime lore, then tuck into some cockles from the food shacks opposite. Get your camera ready as you pass the skeletal West Pier and browse the craft stalls at the open-air market. For kids there s a great play area and paddling pool, and for adults there s beach volleyball, pétanque or frisbee. After the Peace Statue, stroll past the colourful beach huts and end the walk at Hove Lagoon. ACTIVE www.visitbrighton.com 13
On a rainy day, opt for Brighton Marina, which has a Bowlplex (01273 818180) and a Cineworld (0871 200 2000). Or visit one of the family-friendly museums (see Museums & galleries, p22), many of which have interactive displays. Both the Theatre Royal and Komedia (see Performance, p24) have children s shows during school holidays. Kids Sea Life Centre For children there s lots to see, lots to do and the seaside too Scoop & Crumb Whether you re after an education, an adventure or plain and simple fun, Brighton & Hove is packed with attractions and activities to keep every kid happy and suit every parent s wallet. Head to Brighton Pier (Madeira Drive, BN2 1TW, 01273 609361) for slots and rides, and to the Sea Life Centre (Marine Parade, BN2 1TB, 01273 604234) for a glimpse of what lies beneath. The free playground and paddling pool by the West Pier are also popular, while the promenade is perfect for cycling and skateboarding. Serious skaters can ride the half-pipe at The Level. In good weather, nothing beats picnics and games in Preston Park, Queens Park or St Ann s Well Gardens in Hove. Beach front My favourite place is Scoop & Crumb on East Street. The choice of ice cream sundaes is enormous, and they re lovingly crafted. The waffles are amazing too. Gary SEA LIFE CENTRE, WWW.RICHARD ROWLAND.CO.UK 14 www.visitbrighton.com
Festivals Brighton has a packed calendar of festivals, taking in music, culture, sport and more from summer beach parties to a film festival to warm your winter Brighton Festival Fringe JO MOORE, CHRIS VAN DE BURGHT The Great Escape Artists Open Houses Brighton Festival
Brighton Festival May 2-24 In its 43rd year, the Brighton Festival has become a major fixture on the international arts calendar, while maintaining its local feel with commissions from homegrown artists and shows using the city s open spaces and A major fixture on the arts calendar, while maintaining its local feel architecture. This year, Anish Kapoor is guest artistic director, and you can see his installations in May. Highlights include Alice In Wonderland at Preston Manor, a live soundtrack to The Oyster Princess in the Brighton Dome s Concert Hall and a UK premiere by Belgian dance company les ballets C de la B. And where else could you see a Joe Orton play on a pier, with a fish & chip supper thrown in? www.brightonfestival.org Artists Open Houses May 2-24 (weekends) The biggest free arts event in Britain, yet the most intimate. About 1,000 of the city s artists and craftspeople open the doors of their studios and homes to the public. Handily, most of the Open Houses are clustered into A unique opportunity to experience art away from a gallery setting Trails, allowing you to focus your attention on districts such as Kemp Town and Seven Dials. It s a great way to bag original pieces, from paintings to furniture, jewellery to sculpture, and a unique opportunity to experience art away from a sterile gallery setting. You might even find yourself being offered cake and tea. www.aoh.org.uk MATTHEW ANDREWS, ANISH KAPOOR - PHILIPPE CHANCEL PARIS, JAMES PIKE 16 www.visitbrighton.com
The Great Escape May 14-16 Brighton Festival Fringe May 2-25 MIKE BURNELL This three-day music festival and industry conference is Britain s answer to Texas s SXSW the biggest event of its kind in Europe and the only one able to offer that party-starting seaside atmosphere. Its raison d être is to link up export ready bands with industry professionals eager to make them stars. This year White Denim, DM Stith, Dan Black and School Of Seven Bells are among the 300+ acts playing across the city in venues as disparate as The Old Market and the Theatre Royal. Plan carefully with the aim of seeing new bands rather than old favourites and, with gigs At Britain s answer to SXSW you can see four headline-quality bands a night kicking off around 6pm, you can see four headlinequality bands a night. www. escapegreat.com Over 700 performances in 200 venues, from cafés to hospitals Third in the world only to Edinburgh and Adelaide, this fringe festival has over 700 performances in some 200 venues, from churches and cafés to the Royal Alexandra Hospital. This year one show, Frying Nemo, will even take place above the shark tank at the Sea Life Centre. The Parlure Spiegeltent returns, bringing cabaret and circus acts to the Old Steine, and new venues include stand-up at The Quadrant pub and a Victorian-tinged line-up at Grade I listed St Andrew s Church. Jubilee Square will host carnival displays and theatre, and artist Sir Peter Blake will be exhibiting and selling prints in a double-decker bus. www.brightonfestivalfringe.org.uk FESTIVALS www.visitbrighton.com 17
Festivals calendar SUMMER June 27-July 12 Festival Of Sport Celebration of community sports, with over 200 activities. www.takepart brightonandhove.com July 10-12 Loop Festival The third Loop event, with lots of live music including Squarepusher. www.loopbrighton.com July 11-12 Brighton Kite Festival A family kite event at Stanmer Park. www. brightonkitefestival.co.uk July 25-Aug 2 Brighton Pride LGBT celebration, with its famous themed parade to Preston Park on Aug 1. www.brightonpride.org L2B runs In 1896, 30 motorists drove from London to Brighton in honour of the new 14mph speed limit. Now there are over 10 annual L2B events, such as the Mini Run (May 17), Bike Ride (June) and Veteran Car Run (Oct 31-Nov 1). August 28-31 Beachdown Music Festival Grace Jones headlines this family-friendly festival on the South Downs. www. beachdownfestival.com AUTUMN September Big Beach Boutique 5 The latest of Fatboy Slim s legendary seafront gigs. www.normancook.co.uk September Brighton Food & Drink Festival A celebration of local restaurants. www.brighton foodfestival.co.uk Sept 30-Oct 3 Brighton Live Free gigs showcasing Brighton s music scene. www.brightonlive.net October Paramount Comedy Festival Shows by top comedians, based at the Dome. www.brightondome.org October 25 White Night Festival A host of magical ways to spend the extra hour at the end of British Summer Time. www.whitenight brightonandhove.com September 18-20 WhiteAir Extreme Sports Festival Europe s biggest extreme sports festival. www.whiteair.co.uk October-November Brighton Early Music Festival Celebration of early music, with an East meets West theme. www.bremf.org.uk WINTER November Cinecity Film festival with talks, premieres and more. www.cine-city.co.uk December Christmas Artists Open Houses Get gifts at this mini Artists Open Houses festival. www.aoh.org.uk December 21 Burning the Clocks Winter solstice festival featuring a paper lantern parade. www.burning theclocks.co.uk SPRING February Brighton Science Festival Fun celebration of science. www.brightonscience.com 18 www.visitbrighton.com
WWW.RICHARD ROWLAND.CO.UK Eat & drink North Laine Al Duomo Brighton s oldest Italian restaurant is centrally located and offers good pizzas and other classic Italian dishes. On a sunny day, the large patio at the front is an inviting spot for an alfresco lunch. 7 Pavilion Buildings, BN1 1EE (01273 326741) Carluccio s Old-school chef Antonio Carluccio tempts us with Italian delights in a relaxed setting. Jubilee St, BN1 1GE (01273 690493) Riddle & Finns There s plenty to sink your teeth into in Brighton restaurants, cafés, pubs and bars Oki-Nami In Vino Veritas Fine food and a choice of over 200 wines (18 by the glass) at this wine bar, bistro and basement cocktail bar with over 80 concoctions on the list. 103 North Rd, BN1 1YW (01273 622522) Oki-Nami Minimalist Japanese barrestaurant co-owned by Brighton DJ Norman Cook. 6 New Rd, BN1 1UF (01273 773777) The Lanes English s of Brighton Well- respected seafood restaurant, housed in what was originally three fisherman s cottages dating back 400 years. 29-31 East St, BN1 1HL (01273 327980) Food For Friends Healthy, organic and gluten-free vegan and vegetarian treats. 17-18 Prince Albert St, BN1 1HF (01273 202310) The Mock Turtle A true Brighton institution, this old-fashioned tea shop will take you back in time with vintage teapots and scones drenched in jam and cream. 4 Pool Valley, BN1 1NJ (01273 327380) Moshi Moshi Walls slide open to let the sun in as you tuck into delicious sushi and other environmentally sound Japanese dishes. Opticon, Bartholomew Square, BN1 1JS (01273 719195) EAT & DRINK www.visitbrighton.com 19
Family weekend Sat 10am Take a tour of the Victorian sewer system (May-Sept, age 11+, 01903 272606), emerging in Old Steine Gardens. 12noon Have a go on the famous Dolphin Derby at the end of Brighton Pier, before taking a trip along the seafront on the quaint Volk s Railway (p13). 3-5pm Kids and adults love the Brighton Toy Museum (p22). Sun 11am Pop into Maugherman s Deli (01273 723 522) for homemade pizza, buy a kite from Potters Children s Store on Meeting House Lane (01273 820900) and head for a hillside picnic at Devil s Dyke. 3pm Hire rollerblades from the seafront kiosk and skate to Woodies Diner in Hove (01273 430300), with fun 50s décor, great milkshakes and stacked burgers. Riddle & Finns This decadent champagne and oyster bar serves what Gordon Ramsay called seafood as it should be. 12b Meeting House Lane, BN1 1HB (01273 323008) Scoop & Crumb A new ice cream parlour, café and sandwich shop, with modern art on the walls and an amazing choice of ice cream made with local ingredients. 5-6 East St, BN1 1HP (01273 202563) St,BN1HP (01273202563) 5-6East Terre à Terre This highly acclaimed restaurant wows veggies and meat-eaters alike with its wild flavours and intense textures. 71 East St, BN1 1HQ (01273 729051) Terre à Terre The Chilli Pickle The Chilli Pickle This Indian/Nepalese bistro in the Lanes offers up authentic street food-style snacks during the day (try the Sunday brunch) or more substantial delights in the evening, ranging from a classic thali to shoulder of Mughlai lamb. 42 Meeting House Lane, BN1 1HB (01273 323824) Kemp Town Sam s of Brighton Owner and head chef Sam Metcalfe has brought his London pedigree back home to Brighton, first with the well-respected Sevendials and now this informal, friendly bistro, serving classic yet creative dishes made with seasonal local ingredients. 1 Paston Place, BN2 1HA (01273 676222) WWW.RICHARD ROWLAND.CO.UK, JAMES PIKE 20 www.visitbrighton.com
WWW.RICHARD ROWLAND.CO.UK My favourite place is the bohemian North Laine in the heart of our wonderful city. Check out the bars, vintage clothing and record shops, street entertainers and restaurants. Darren Brighton/Hove border The Gingerman Head to The Gingerman for intimate fine dining. But for a relaxed foodie hang-out, try sister pub The Ginger Pig in Hove. The Gingerman, 21a Norfolk Square, BN1 2PD (01273 326688); The Ginger Pig, 3 Hove St, BN3 2TR (01273736123) Seafront Alfresco This Italian eatery has great specialities like home-smoked duck breast and lobster linguine. Milkmaid s Pavilion, Kings Rd Arches, BN1 2LN (01273 206523) Due South Perfectly located at beach level between the piers, it features seasonal, local and organic food. The Mock Turtle 139 King s Rd Arches, BN1 2FN (01273 821218) The Regency Restaurant An atmospheric and reasonably priced fish restaurant with great sea views and cracking chips. 131 King s Rd, BN1 2HH (01273 325014) Hove L'Église French brasserie with a classic and modern menu. 196 Church Rd, BN3 2DJ (01273 220868) Al Duomo Due South The Meadow With two AA rosettes, British cuisine is at the forefront of the menu at this elegant restaurant, featuring rare-breed British meats and locally caught fish. 64 Western Rd, BN3 2JQ (01273 721182) Brighton Marina Brighton Pagoda Brighton s only floating restaurant, with fresh and tasty Chinese food, lavish decor and marina views. The Lagoon, BN2 5UF (01273 819053) EAT & DRINK www.visitbrighton.com 21
Earthship Brighton Eco-building incorporating 1,000 tyres and two tonnes of cans and bottles, with more than a passing resemblance to the Teletubbies den. Public tours take place two Sundays a month. Stanmer Park, BN1 9PZ (07974 122770) Brighton Fishing Museum Museums & galleries Brighton s art scene covers all the bases, from glass cases to hip new faces Preston Manor This Edwardian manor claims to be Brighton s most haunted building (look out for a ghostly hand floating by). Preston Drove, BN1 6SD (03000 290900) Hove Museum & Art Gallery Museums Booth Museum of Natural History Wonderful old-school museum, housing over half a million birds, insects and animal skeletons. 194 Dyke Rd, BN1 5AA (03000 290900) Brighton Fishing Museum Buff up on the city s origins as a fishing village, before visiting the nearby whelk stall and smoked fish shop. 201 Kings Rd Arches, BN1 1NB (01273 723064) Brighton Museum & Art Gallery Big, beautifully housed collections, from fine art to fashion, furniture and the just-opened Ancient Egypt galleries, plus a regular events schedule. Royal Pavilion Gardens, BN1 1EE (03000 290900) Brighton Toy & Model Museum The closest you ll come to Santa s workshop; this magical nostalgia-fest in the station arches is home to 10,000 toys. 52-55 Trafalgar St, BN1 4EB (01273 749494) Hove Museum & Art Gallery Victorian mansion with hands-on toy and film galleries and relics from a local Bronze Age burial mound. 19 New Church Rd, BN3 4AB (03000 290900) SCOTT WISHART, THE ROYAL PAVILION AND MUSEUMS, BRIGHTON AND HOVE 22 www.visitbrighton.com
THE ROYAL PAVILION AND MUSEUMS, BRIGHTON AND HOVE, WWW.RICHARD ROWLAND.CO.UK, PALY BORLAND Brighton Museum & Art Gallery Galleries Crane Kalman Brighton Photography gallery that exhibits and sells work by new local talent as well as some of photography s leading lights. 38 Kensington Gardens, BN1 4AL (01273 697096) Fabrica Cutting-edge gallery in a former Regency church. 40 Duke St, BN1 1AG (01273 778646) Brighton Toy & Model Museum Lighthouse Film and media arts hub whose spaces thrum with exhibits, screenings, workshops and talks. 28 Kensington St, BN1 4AJ (01273 647197) Permanent Gallery Tiny alternative gallery and bookshop that also hosts live electronica and performance art events. 20 Bedford Place, BN1 2PT (01273 710389) University of Brighton Gallery Free exhibitions of art and fashion students work. The annual Graduate Show in June attracts 15,000 visitors. Grand Parade, BN2 0JY (01273 643012) Crane Kalman Brighton Art lover s weekend Sat 11.30am Start at cutting-edge gallery Fabrica (this page). 2pm Browse the local artists stalls at the Friends Meeting House (p7) markets. Stroll along the seafront to the tiny galleries of the Artists Quarter. Stay at The Claremont hotel (p29), full of work by local artists. Sun 10am Tour the street art, from Banksy s Kissing Coppers on the Prince Albert pub to the murals on Kensington Street in the North Laine (above) and the 500mlong graffiti mural in the New England Quarter by the station. 2pm Have lunch at The Gallery Café in Brighton Museum (p22). 3pm Check out North Laine Photography Gallery (01273 628794) and raid Snooper s Paradise for art posters (p9). MUSEUMS www.visitbrighton.com 23
Theatre Royal Brighton Historic Regency theatre hosting weekly runs of touring shows and producing the city s main Christmas panto. New Rd, BN1 1SD (08700 606650) PIC CREDITS Performance The Basement A big space beneath The Argus Lofts, with a café and mini-amphitheatre. The venue has a dedicated experimental theatre programme. 24 Kensington St, BN1 4AJ (01273 699733) Brighton Dome Three venues (the intimate raked Pavilion Theatre, versatile Corn Exchange and impressive Concert Hall) cover all the bases, from dance to opera to comedy. Church St, BN1 1UE (01273 709709) Brighton Dome Experience Brighton s flair for the dramatic at its theatre and performance spaces Brighton Little Theatre This is the base for a lively amateur company founded in the 1940s, performing a programme covering classics to contemporary. 9 Clarence Gardens, BN1 2EG (01273 777748) Coach Werks This converted bus garage is a great new community space where, creatively, anything can happen, from live performance to workshops. 19 Hollingdean Terrace, BN1 7HB (01273 562658) Nightingale Theatre Theatre above the Grand Central bar; hometo the Prodigal Theatre company. 29-30 Surrey St, BN1 3PA (01273 702563) Old Market See a daytime concert, a lecture or a live band here. Upper Market St, BN3 1AS (01273 736222) St Andrew s Church As of May, this 1827 church is opening as a My favourite place has got to be Alfresco s, the Italian restaurant on the beach. You can eat alfresco on the first floor balcony for a panoramic view of the coast and both piers. Hilary VISITBRIGHTON 24 www.visitbrighton.com
Komedia of Brighton s own theatre. University of Brighton, Grand Parade, BN2 OJY (01273 643010) VISITBRIGHTON, MIKE BURNELL, THEATRE ROYAL BRIGHTON fringe venue. They host a busy line-up of music, theatre, comedy, cabaret and kids shows. 5 Waterloo St, BN3 1AQ (07869 105265) St Bartholomew s Church St Bart s hosts regular choral and orchestral concerts and recitals in its handsome Arts & Crafts interior. Ann St, BN1 4GP (01273 620491) Sallis Benney Theatre Enjoy contemporary dance, avant-garde film and talks at the University Theatre Royal Brighton Sanctuary Café Known locally as the Cella, the basement of this brilliant Hove veggie café hosts low-tech events. 51-55 Brunswick St East, BN3 1AU (07886 135970) Upstairs at Three and Ten Comedy and new drama can be enjoyed at this accessible pub theatre. 10 Steine St, BN2 1TE (07800 983290) Komedia A welcoming (if warrenlike) venue with an unbeaten live comedy record, including the award-winning Krater Comedy Club (Fri-Sun). Plus hip touring bands and alternative club nights, with music from retro rockabilly to Balkan beats. 44-47 Gardner St, BN1 1UN (0845 293 8480) Music lover s weekend Sat 10am Tour the independent record shopssuch as Rounder Records (p8), Borderline (01273 818611) on Gardner Street and Edgeworld Records (01273 628262) on Kensington Gardens. 2pm Hire a Vespa from Vroom by the Sea (p12) and make like Sting in Quadrophenia. 8pm Catch a band at Concorde 2 (p27) or book a karaoke room at the Royal York Hotel (01273 766700). 12midnight Back to your Elvis-themed room at Sea Spray (p30). Sun 11am Start with a classical concert at the Old Market (p24), then lunch at Bom-Bane s (01273 606400) with its staff of singers. 3pm In the North Laine, check out Adaptatrap Percussion (01273 672722) and the Guitar, Keyboard & Amp Centre (01273 665400). PERFORMANCE www.visitbrighton.com 25
My favourite place is by the Fishing Museum in the King s Road Arches. You can buy a fresh grilled mackerel roll, or fish soup from Jack & Linda s shop and sit in the wooden boat to eat it. Pat Nightlife Honey Club Brighton is the coast with the most when it comes to night-time entertainment Casablanca Latin-style live bands, funky DJs and a busy bar raise even the most sluggish of spirits in this low-ceilinged joint. 3 Middle St, BN1 1AL (01273 321817) Audio This three-floor venue on the seafront attracts some of the city s best independent shows and well-known DJs. 10 Marine Parade, BN2 1TL (01273 697775) Brighton Centre The city s biggest venue attracts the biggest names, from The Prodigy to Paul Potts. Kings Rd, BN1 2GR (01273 290131) The Brunswick The best of both worlds: a traditional community The Hanbury Club boozer with a fireplace and a music venue with a high-tech sound system. Varied programming, but known for its live jazz. 1 Holland Rd, Hove, BN3 1JF (01273 733984) Club New Hero Finally starting to attract the crowds, this recently The Hanbury Club Once a ballroom, then a much-loved gig venue, this intimate domed space has now been reconceived as a 1920s supper club-style venue with mirrors, black furnishings and jive and burlesque nights. 83 St George s Rd, BN2 1EF (01273 605789) WWW.RICHARD ROWLAND.CO.UK, AMANDA BLANCH 26 www.visitbrighton.com
SAM MILFORD - WWW.REALBRIGHTON.COM renamed club is getting a rep for alternative dance and unlikely 80s tunes. 11 Dyke Rd, BN1 3FE (01273 747203) Coalition A seafront club for people who don t like clubbing, with everything from stand-up comedy to Club NME and family-friendly Baby Loves Disco nights. 171-181 Kings Rd Arches, BN1 1NB (01273 772842) Concorde 2 Now established in its second home further down the seafront, the birthplace of Big Beat Boutique does great business as the only venue for mid-scale touring bands. Madeira Drive, BN2 1EN (01273 673311) Royal Pavilion Tavern AKA The Pav Tav, a big old pub whose upstairs space is sweaty student heaven and the birthplace of many locally legendary nights, such as the weekly Friday indie fest Kick Out The Jams. 7 Castle Square, BN1 1FX (01273 735819) LGBT scene Brighton is a centre for the lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender community The liveliest sign of Brighton s diverse sexual makeup is the summer Brighton Pride, a week-long party climaxed by a parade (July 25- August 2). But while Pride is a twice-yearly event, there s a pink hue to Brighton all year round, thanks to the active, integrated LGBT community. There is also a gay quarter around St James s Street in Kemp Town. Stay at the luxurious Amsterdam Hotel & Bar (11-12 Marine Parade, BN2 1TL, 01273 688825), get a beauty treatment at The Pink Pamper (1 St James s St, BN2 1RE, 01273 608060) or see drag legend Dave Lynn at Charles Street Bar & Club (8 Marine Parade, BN2 1TA, 01273 624091). There are also many gay bars: the Marlborough Theatre (4 Prince s St, BN2 1RD, 07782 278521) is popular with lesbians, and The PV (161 Edward St, BN2 0JB, 01273 687090) is a friendly pub. For full updates on gay Brighton, visit www.realbrighton.com Amsterdam Hotel & Bar NIGHTLIFE www.visitbrighton.com 27
Digital Formerly the Zap, this venue still draws crowds thanks to a combination of varied dance nights (including happy house from the Pussycat Club) and late- 80s nostalgia. 187 Kings Rd Arches, BN1 1NB (01273 227767) The Freebutt A springboard for new acts, this pub has seen em all. Thanks to a refurb, you ve now got a much better chance of seeing the stage too. 1 Phoenix Place, BN2 9ND (01273 603974) The Greys A back wall thick with flyposters reveals the folk, country and blues greats to whom this tiny fine-ale pub has played host. 105 Southover St, BN2 9UA (01273 680734) The Brunswick Honey Club For people who take house seriously the emphasis is on clubbing, not coupling, with nights by Hed Kandi, Sevensins and Hard South. 214 Kings Rd Arches, BN1 1NB (07000 446639) Latest Music Bar This venue has been through many guises and has songwriters and singers most nights. 14-17 Manchester St, BN2 1TF (01273 687171) Revenge The biggest gay club on the south coast and the best fun, whatever your proclivities so long as they re pop. Also known for its generosity towards ailing chart combos. 32-34 Old Steine, BN1 1EL (01273 606064) Ocean Rooms Stylish, smart and just a bit seedy, this backstreet club is the place to enjoy your dirty breakbeats. 1 Morley St, BN2 9RA (01273 699069) The Prince Albert Calling itself the most rock n roll pub in Brighton, the upstairs room has nightly gigs, from punk to alt.folk and everything in between. 48 Trafalgar St, BN1 4ED (01273 730499) Concorde 2 St George s Church Local promoters Melting Vinyl have recently started putting on cult lo-fi acts in this lovely parish church. St George s Rd, BN2 1ED (01273 279448) WWW.RICHARD ROWLAND.CO.UK, MIKE BURNELL 28 www.visitbrighton.com
The Claremont Artwork, four-poster beds and a big garden make this an excellent choice for a leisurely weekend. 13 Second Ave, BN3 2LL (01273 735161) DAVID CHURCHILL, NICHOLAS HARVEY Where to stay Luxe hotels drakes The signature circular suite has a freestanding bath and massive bed with sea views. Perfect for a love tryst. 43-44 Marine Parade, BN2 1PE (01273 696934) Hilton Brighton Metropole Go for the classic grand hotel experience and you might be tempted to stay in all weekend there s a fabulous spa and gym. Kings Rd, BN1 2FU (01273 775432) Kemp Townhouse Decadent, homely, grand or quirky just some of Brighton & Hove s places to stay Seattle Sleek and airy whitewashed rooms plus a host of packages and kid-friendly extras make Seattle a great choice for families. Brighton Marina, BN2 5WA (01273 679799) Boutique boltholes Kemp Townhouse An elegant treat where you can book a four-poster bedroom with sea views. 6 Bedford St, BN2 1AN (01273 626266) myhotel Brighton The London boutique chain does psychedelic chic in Brighton, plus there s a restaurant from superchef Aldo Zilli. 17 Jubilee St, BN1 1GE (01273 900300) The Neo Each of the nine rooms is decorated with different wallpaper chosen by the ex-elle stylist owner. 19 Oriental Place, BN1 2LL (01273 711104) Nineteen An eight-bedroom hotel with wonderful in-room pampering services and great attention to special little details. 19 Broad St, BN2 1TJ (01273 675529) myhotel Brighton WHERE TO STAY www.visitbrighton.com 29
Paskins Town House Art deco-ish and eco-friendly hotel with fantastic locally sourced breakfasts (including celebrated vegan and veggie options). 18-19 Charlotte St, BN2 1AG (01273 601203) B&B chic Colson House Taking its inspiration from the silver screen, this B&B has themed its rooms after such stars as Clarke Gable, John Wayne and Marilyn Monroe. 17 Upper Rock Gardens, BN2 1QE (01273 694922 ) The White House The White House This cute little boutique has nicely considered details like fluffy bathrobes and Fairtrade tea and coffee on tap. 6 Bedford St, BN2 1AN (01273 626266) Motel Schmotel Style on a shoestring, with beautiful rooms, organic breakfasts and personalised rock sweets. 37 Russell Square, BN1 2EF (01273 326129) Sea Spray Themed rooms give this B&B a fun edge. There s an excellent breakfast too. 26 New Steine, BN2 1PD (01273 680332) snooze Six super snooze rooms, and four snooze lite options for those on a snooze Motel Schmotel budget, in Kemp Town. 25 St George s Terrace, BN2 1JJ (01273 605797) Swish self-catering Bethany This luxury art deco two-bedroom apartment ticks the box if you re looking to stay longer. 33 Arundel Drive West, BN2 8SJ (07932 027410) My Holiday Let Boutique hotel quality but in your own luxury apartment, in the Regency Brunswick area of Hove. Optional maid and laundry service. 6 Brunswick Place, BN3 1EB (07976 923733) Check VisitBrighton (www.visitbrighton.com) for easy-to-find information on accommodation prices. MOTEL SCHMOTEL, THE WHITE HOUSE, WWW.WEBSITEFORALL.CO.UK 30 www.visitbrighton.com