HfHMD uses LP SmartSide siding and trim.

HfHMD uses LP SmartSide siding and trim.

Types of siding: Lap siding (6 to 8 ) Board and batten (4'x8' sheets and 1x2) Exterior trim (5/4 x 2 to 5/4 x 12) Fascia (rabbeted 1x6) Ventilated soffit

Exterior Trim Exterior trim is always installed first. All siding butts up to and is notched around this trim. All exterior trim is installed using 16d galvanized nails. Exterior trim is installed: Around all windows and doors At all interior and exterior corners As a horizontal belly board Directly under the soffit As a finished fascia board Wrapping porch beams and posts

Exterior Trim: Windows and Doors 1x4 trim is used around all windows and doors, with only a few exceptions.

Single Windows 1) Install the bottom board first, cutting it tight to the corners of the vinyl flange of the window. 2) Then install the two side boards, measuring from the bottom corner of the installed bottom trim to the top of the window's vinyl flange. 3) Install the top board last, measuring from the top outside edges of the side boards.

Single Windows Install each piece using pairs of nails at each end and one pair of nails centered between. The nails closest to the window may catch the window flange underneath. Tip: If they bounce when you hit the nail head, pre-drill that hole through the vinyl so as not to risk breaking it. Avoid over-sinking these nails! Make sure the faces of each board line up at the corners to avoid any ugly overhangs. When all four pieces are installed, gently tap the nails at the corners until both boards are flush.

Double Windows Follow the same procedure (install bottom boards first, then sides, then top). The trim between the two windows may need to be ripped to fit. Tip: Do this last, so it doesn't delay volunteers siding around the rest of the window. Note: bottom board spans both windows.

Second-Story Windows On some sections, the bottom piece of 1x4 is replaced by the 1x6 belly board. Check with staff supervisor to see where belly board will be installed. This 1x6 divides lap siding sections from board and batten. Belly board is installed tight to the bottom of the windows. Side and center pieces butt into this belly board, but leave a ¼ gap between the belly board's flashing and the side pieces.

Doors Same as windows, except: On no-step (rolling entry) doors, there is no bottom piece of trim. All front doors are no-step entries. Install the side boards first, measuring from the top corner of the brick mould to the concrete. Subtract ¼ from these measurements, and install boards flush to the top of the brick mould so that there is a ¼ gap between the trim and the concrete.

Doors On stepped entries, follow the same procedure (install side boards first). All back doors are stepped entries. For the bottom piece of trim: Measure the height (from bottom of brick mould to bottom edge of side trim) And the length (between the two side boards) This board will usually need to be ripped from 1x4 or 1x6, depending on height. Note: We usually install these pieces last because this bottom piece is more time-consuming to cut. This way, volunteers can continue siding on either side of the door while you cut and install this piece. Make sure to install this piece tight under the threshold to help support it.

Interior Corner Trim On interior corners, install a 1x2 tight into the corner. Siding butts up to it and this trim is painted the same color as the surrounding siding, so it effectively disappears. Use 16d nails approximately 2' apart. Interior corner trim always butts into bellyboard or soffit trim at the top. Trim should hang ¼ lower than surrounding siding. Bottom of Trim Top of Trim

Exterior Corner Trim Nail two 1x4s together in an L using 8d galvanized nails, ensuring the outside edges are perfectly flush. Nails should be approximately 2' apart. Install corner trim tight to corner of house using 16d galvanized nails. Be careful not to compress the blueboard and to secure evenly without any gaps on one side or the other. The joint in this trim should always face the side of the house, never the front or the back. Front or Back of house Side of house

Exterior Corner Trim Trim should hang 1/4 lower than surrounding trim. To ensure accuracy, mark on the side of the corner at the bottom at 8 1/4 (for 8 lap siding). Hold trim up so that this mark lines up perfectly with the first siding chalk line. Exterior corner trim always runs long. Belly board butts into it; soffit trim butts into it.

Exterior Corner Trim When corner is taller than 16', always splice corners with staggered miter cuts. Note: You'll need to make these individual cuts before nailing boards together.

Belly Board For the Globeville Townhomes, all belly board will be flashed 1x6 installed tight to the bottom of the secondstory windows. Belly board runs short, butting into exterior corner trim. Install using pairs of 16d galvanized nails into every stud. Where a wall is longer than 16', always splice board with an overlapped miter cut centered on a stud. Use wood glue in this overlap and nail each end of each board into the stud (4 total at joint).

Flashing on Trim All trim which will have siding directly above it needs to be flashed. This includes: Top trim on all windows Top trim on all doors All belly board Z-bar flashing should be cut to exactly the length of the trim (for short pieces). This flashing should not overhang trim. Overlap pieces of flashing by 3 where trim is longer than 8. Install using 3 roofing nails every 2. Use Tyvek tape to seal top of flashing to blueboard.

Fascia, Soffit, and Soffit Trim To trim the overhang of the roof, install the following in this order: All soffit backer boards 5/8 Type X gypsum (where necessary) Ventilated soffit 1x6 Rabbeted fascia 1x4 Soffit Trim

Firewall Soffit There are two soffit details, based on the demising (fire) wall separating each unit. Check with a staff member to ensure firewall details are installed in the correct locations! Firewall soffit detail Normal soffit detail

Firewall Soffit Soffit at firewall We set the height of backer boards at firewalls to accommodate the double layer of 5/8 drywall. Normal soffit But the height of fascia and soffit need to match throughout the building, so we adjust the backer boards down everywhere else.

Soffit Backer Board Staff will assist laying out backer board for firewall sections. For all normal soffit sections: 1) Using a 2' to 4' level, mark the side of the house level to the bottom of the sub-fascia. - Measure down 5/8 from here. - Snap a chalk line from corner to corner. 1) 2) 2) Install 2x2 ripped blocking with bottom flush to this line. - Install blocking with (1) 16d sinker nails into each truss heel. 3) 3) Install 1x2 ripped blocking to bottom of subfascia.

Soffit Backer Board Extend this blocking beyond the corner on the sides of the house to butt into the subfascia on the front and back. Secure blocking to fascia with two 16d sinkers. Add to this extension another backer board to catch the front piece of soffit. Use 3 screws for easier installation. Ensure that the bottom of both pieces of blocking are perfectly flush.

Soffit Soffit comes in 16 wide by 16 long pieces. Soffit should overhang subfascia by exactly ¼ If a piece is too wide for a section (overhangs by more than ¼ ) rip it to the proper width. Always cut off the solid side; never cut off the vented side. If a piece is too narrow for a section, maintain the ¼ overhang and open a small gap facing the wall. The trim will cover this. Nail vented side into subfascia and solid side into backer board. Install using 10d galvanized nails (same as siding), nailing into subfascia and backer board every 2. Soffit always runs long on sides of house. Nail soffit into extended backer board and subfascia on front.

Fascia Fascia tucks under the dripedge and hooks over the extended soffit. Fascia on exterior corners should have a mitered joint. Fascia on interior corners can have a butt joint. Install using pairs of 16d galvanized nails every 2.

Soffit Trim The highest piece of trim is 1x4 installed directly under soffit. Soffit trim runs short, butting into exterior corner trim. Push 1x4 up tight to soffit, minimizing gaps as much as possible. Install with two 16d nails into each stud. Where a wall is longer than 16', always splice board with an overlapped miter cut centered on a stud. Glue this overlap and nail each end of each board into stud (4 total at joint).

Lap Siding The Globeville Townhomes will use all 8 lap siding.

Lap Siding: Layout Lap siding starts with layout lines: Horizontal chalked lines are snapped with the help of a laser level to ensure all courses are even, level, and match across building. These mark the top edge of each piece of siding. Tip: Make sure volunteers are holding the piece perfectly on this line, and are looking down at it when they install. Looking up at a piece to see the chalk line will result in a piece at least a quarter-inch low. Take the time to raise that scaffolding or move that ladder! Remember: Trust the layout lines! Do not measure up from the previous piece or use a hand-held level to check. Doing this will mean that one section of siding will not match those on either side, and this is very obvious when looking at both at once. Vertical Sharpie lines are drawn with a level to mark all of the studs. Make sure all nails are hitting the studs!

Lap Siding: Starter Strips The first, bottom-most course of siding needs a 1 ripped starter strip of siding installed below it. Snap a chalk line 6 below the first siding layout line. Install starter strip with top flush to this chalk line. This strip mimics the standard overlap of all courses above it, pushing the bottom edge of the bottom course out to match. This strip should not be visible under first course.

Lap Siding: Joints When a course is longer than 16', two pieces must meet in a butt-joint along the wall. These joints must be centered on a stud, so that the corners of both boards can be nailed securely to it. Stagger these joints so that no two line up directly above or below each other. Never place a butt-joint directly above or below a window or door.

Lap Siding: Gaps LP SmartSide is engineered to expand and contract. All lap-siding butt-joints should have a consistent 1/8 gap to allow this. These gaps are filled with flexible exterior caulk+silicone, then painted. To create consistent gaps, have volunteers place a single siding nail between the new siding and the existing piece of siding or trim. Push the new piece tight to this spacer nail. Note: Exterior trim should not have these 1/8 gaps where pieces meet or are attached together.

Lap Siding: Overlap and Nailing All lap siding will overlap by 1. For example, our 8 lap siding will have layout lines 7 apart. All the lap siding on this project will be face-nailed through this overlap. This means that these nail heads will show on the final product, so make sure volunteers are very careful starting and sinking those nails! Painted, they're nearly invisible. But hammer-marks can't be hidden by paint, and any siding that is cracked or chipped during installation should be immediately pulled off and replaced. Nails should be installed approximately a half-inch up from the bottom of the board. This ensures each nail secures the bottom of each new board and the top of the previous one. Tip: If volunteers are having trouble starting or sinking these nails, have them use an 1/8 drill bit and pre-drill these holes through the overlapped trim. Better to take a little longer than to have ugly hammer-marks all over a board, or have to re-cut it when a corner breaks off.

Lap Siding: Blueboard and Nailing Remember: All siding is installed over a 1 layer of DOW blue board, taped at the seams, which serves as the home's exterior water/vapor barrier. This foam compresses easily, so make sure volunteers are not driving nails too deep. This will compress the blueboard behind the siding at each nail, making the siding look wavy. This is very obvious, very ugly, and very difficult to fix without damaging the siding all around it. Tip: If volunteers aren't sure when to stop hammering, it's better to have a nail sticking a bit too far out than to have it sunk a bit too deep. We can always give it a couple taps later before painting to make it perfect.

Lap Siding: Above Concrete Where siding would rest directly above concrete (such as on all porches) always maintain a ¼ gap above concrete. Use scrap siding as spacers to maintain a consistent gap over the entire piece. If a piece of siding needs to be ripped to start a course over concrete, always install the cut edge up, to be covered by the next piece. On just this piece, the consistent ¼ gap at the bottom is more important than holding the piece exactly to its chalk layout line.

Lap Siding: Around Windows & Doors Make sure to span the entire window or door with one piece of siding. Avoid spanning two windows with one piece, it s better and easier to stop each piece centered on a stud between windows. When measuring sides of notch, remember to account for an 1/8 gap between siding and trim. When measuring top of notch, always measure down from chalk layout line, never up from window or up from preceding piece of trim. Remember to account for an 1/8 gap between siding and flashing or trim.

Lap Siding: Around Windows & Doors Make the three long cuts first with a circular saw, using safe plunge-cut techniques for the long cut. Finish cutting corners of the notch (where circular saw can't reach without over-cutting the front) with a jig saw. Make sure to hold siding above windows to chalk layout line, not resting on top of flashing! Re-cut piece if the gap is too big when held to layout line.

Lap Siding: Wall Penetrations HVAC vents should be installed before siding. Notch siding around vents just like around windows and doors, with 1/8 gap all around. HVAC vents can be installed over siding, but this should be avoided when possible.

Lap Siding: Wall Penetrations Plumbing penetrations (such as sill cocks and water heater exhaust pipes) will have flanges to help cover the gaps between siding and piping. Siding must be installed behind electrical panels before panels can be installed.

Lap Siding: Top course The top-most course of siding usually must be ripped under belly board, porch, or other horizontal trim. Measure from bottom of horizontal trim to top of preceding siding piece and add 1 for overlap. Install this piece tight to bottom of trim, ensuring bottom corners at each joint are flush. Tip: It is better to have a slight gap at the top (which can be caulked) than to have two corners not line up perfectly (which will always be visible).

Board and batten Certain second-story walls will be sided with board and batten instead of lap siding. Check with a staff member. Note: Exterior corners, belly board, and soffit trim must all be installed before board and batten.

Board and Batten: The Boards The boards are 4'x8' sheets of LP SmartSide. Measure from top of belly board flashing to bottom of soffit trim and subtract ¼. Cut each board individually to fit; do not assume one measurement will work for an entire section. Vertical edges of boards should always end on the center of a stud. For first piece, measure from the edge of corner trim to the center of the stud closest to 4' away. Rip piece to this measurement.

Board and Batten: The Boards Maintain a ¼ gap between board and flashing on any trim. Install boards with 10d galvanized nails (same as siding) every 8 on each stud. Notch around windows just like with lap siding. Note: Boards will often have to join above windows, this cannot be avoided.

Board and Batten: The Boards Remember: Battens will be installed every 16, but our studs are spaced every 24. Only the nails along the edges of boards will be hidden by battens. The line of nails in the center of the board will be exposed and painted, so make sure they're pretty! Tip: On a long wall, install the first board in the center of the wall, a full 4' wide, so that two crews can work in each direction from the center.

Board and Batten: The Battens Battens should be cut to the same length as the boards they will cover. Maintain the same 1/4 gap between batten and flashing on belly board and window trim. Note: Caulk joint between boards before installing batten. Measure and mark 16 on center from joints in boards for middle battens. On joints, install batten centered on joint to cover both lines of nails.

Got all that memorized? If not, don t worry. These slides will be printed and available on site for siding crew leaders. You can use these printouts as a reference and to help teach your crew of volunteers each day. And of course when in doubt, ask staff!