Niepoort, D.O.C. Douro The Douro Valley A couple of hours inland (east from Oporto on the Atlantic coast), the heart of the Douro Valley wine and port growing country centres around the village of Pinhão. That said, you can drive for at least an hour up-ordown river from Pinhão and still be in the guts of Douro country. The soil is largely minerally schist, the vineyards humid and high altitude. The Douro is the same river which flows west through Spain as Ribera del Duero, and so is home to an incredible range of great wines in D.O. Ribera del Duero, D.O. Toro and the Douro. The Douro is traditionally home to Port wine growing; premium table wine production being a relatively recent, in fact emerging, phenomenon. Traditional Douro vineyards and their resultant wines fortified or otherwise are planted to a host of red and white varieties, inter-planted, co-harvested and co-fermented. These are known as field blends. Of late, there has been a trend towards renovating and re-planting as mono-varietal vineyards particularly of Touriga Nacional (viewed increasingly as Portugal s pre-eminent indigenous variety) and Tinto Roriz (aka Tempranillo). Traditional handling has been to macerate and ferment in lagares open, shallow stone/concrete fermentation vats. Despite mono-varietal plantations, the introduction of new French oak, Inox fermenters and the rest of the panoply of modernising/internationalising manoeuvres; almost all of the interesting wines result from innovations rather than discarding in field blends and the use of lagares. Main Grape Varieties The list below is only of the most prominent and high quality varieties there are dozens more. Also note that the list of names is not exhaustive, but to give all details would be exhausting. For example, in Extramadura, Tinta Roriz-Aragonez-Tempranillo is called Abundante; however in Alentejo, the name Abundante is used for Garnacha! The best source for further reading is The Wines and Vineyards of Portugal, Richard Mayson, Mitchell Beazley Classic Wine Library. Touriga Nacional Not Touriga as we (marginally) know in Australia (see Touriga Franca below). Now considered easily the best of Portugal s native varieties (given that Tinta Roriz is the Spanish Tempranillo), and thus surprisingly only the 8 th -most planted of Douro varieties. (After the ravages of phylloxera, TN was less favoured in the replanting than should have been the case, on account of its somewhat uneconomic yields). This is changing rapidly as many Quintas are re-planting field blends as mono-varietal stands of Touriga Nacional. The high-end grape for whipping up supreme Ports, the Touriga Nacional has low yields (less than half the natural yield of Touriga Franca) making it often rather costly. Its rich-coloured wines are intensely fruity and tannic but velvety, and age very well. Floral aromatics of violet/bergamot can be haunting and contribute civilising, finesse aspect to Douro boldness. Despite all these positives, it produces boring wines as a straight varietal, generally speaking. Tinta Roriz Tinta Roriz (aka Aragonez or Tempranillo) is a must-have in most Port/Douro blends, enriching both with its dark fruit. As one travels South, the predominant name changes from Tita Roriz to Aragonez, but it is rarely noble the way it is in Douro (or in Spain as Tempranillo). Well-suited to the climatic cycles of the Douro, it flowers late to avoid Spring frosts, and ripens early to avoid Autumn rain. Touriga Franca Another Port blender grape, the Touriga Francesca brings accents of floral (violet, also a Touriga Nacional trait there is speculation that Franca is either a recent mutation of Nacional, or the result of a varietal cross with Nacional) and red fruit to many Port wines. The most heavily planted variety in Douro Port vineyards, however the tendency now is to replant with Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. Flourishes in the warmer Douro sites and south-facing slopes. High yielding and able to produce full sugars, deep colour and supple structure. Has a marked earthy-rustic tendency, hence it remains a blender, virtually never bottled alone. Tinta Amarela Also known in Portugal as Trincadeira, it is a Niepoort specialty variety. With its susceptibility to disease, and ability to go from green to gone in no time at all, it is worse than Pinot to grow according to head winemaker Luis Seabra. Only Niepoort take it seriously and are committed to retaining it in the forefront of the blend for Batuta and Redoma, as it is the predominant variety in the field blends of Quinta do Carril. office: (+61) 3 9495 6373 email: tsa@thespanishacquisition.com web: www.thespanishacquisition.com
Malvasia Fina The Malvasia Fina is one of the oldest white wine grape varieties, which delivers full-bodied dry to sweet wines with ripe nutty tones. In Portugal, this grape is most commonly blended with other white grapes to produce white Ports but also can been found in Douro table wines. Codega The most-planted white in the Douro, that also goes by the name of Siria, Castelo Rodrigo or Alvadurão elsewhere in Portugal. Codega yields well, produces naturally soft, low acid fruit, with delicate and elegant characters. Rabigato At home in the Douro, the cat s tail has elongated bunches, hence the name, and has good acidity at higher altitudes. Mainly used in white table blends, Rabigato adds subtle floral, vegetable and mineral aromas. Also known as Rabo de Ovelha. Gouveio Grown in the Douro as Gouveio, the variety is also known as Verdelho to confuse things! With good ageing potential and yields, Gouveio produces wines characterised by their excellent structure, intense aromas and balanced acidity. Niepoort Niepoort has been an independent family business since 1842. Through five generation the business has passed successfully from one Niepoort to the next and in most cases the older and younger generations worked side by side for a long period. The fifth generation, Eduard Dirk Niepoort is now head of the business, since the formal retirement of Eduard Rudolph Niepoort in 2005. Dirk Niepoort, born in 1964, joined his father Rolf in the family business in 1987, and was challenged to innovate while maintaining the business s traditions. The first important step in modernising the business was the acquisition of their own vineyards: Quinta de Nápoles and Quinta do Carril in Cima Corgo, a region that traditionally produces the best Port wines; 15 hectares of vineyards were newly planted, and 10 hectares 60-year old vines were carefully maintained. Owning Quintas and vineyards in the Douro was an important step in the production of port wine and the first step for the creation of Niepoort table wines. Niepoort also bought a winery and cellar in Vale Mendiz in the Douro, allowing them to concentrate the harvest of fruit for port production at a central location to the vineyards, while Quinta de Napóles focuses on table wine. All table wines come from the central portion of the Douro, the Cima Corgo, with the whites coming from an 80 yo high altitude blue slate vineyard in the Covas Valley at the margin of the Cima Corgo nearly in the Alt- (upper) Douro. The adjacent Quintas (Napoles and Carril) along the Tedo River, which are the source of all red fruit are predominantly of yellow slate. Redoma and Batuta are from these vineyards, while Charme and Port fruit are grown on the 70 yo vines in Niepoort s estate located in Vale Mendiz, which is on the River Pinhao. All of the fruit grown by Niepoort is organic, however none of the wines as such are described as being entirely organic. The Niepoort table wines project commenced with the first Redoma Tinto in 1991; the first Redoma Branco was from 1995. Quinta de Nápoles was purchased by Niepoort in 1987, and includes nearly 30 ha of vineyard. The vines are at an altitude of 180-250m and the age varies between 18 and more than 70 years. Located on the left bank of the Têdo river (one of several key tributaries to the Douro) this is where Niepoort makes their red, white and rosé wines. (Note: it is an interesting point that the best Cima Corgo red producers, Niepoort plus Vallado and Vale Dona Maria are all situated in relatively cool sites on tributaries to the Douro Niepoort at two locations on the Tedo and Pinhao Rivers, Vallado on the Corgo itself and Dona Maria on the Torto).
Quinta de Carril, situated next to Quinta de Nápoles, was purchased by Niepoort in 1988. These old vineyards are the fruit source for Batuta. A new winery (a hell of a new winery!!) Below, images of the new winery, completed in time for the 2007 harvest at Quinta do Napoles. It s an amazing underground gravity-fed job air-conditioned by the heart rock of the Douro schist mountain block. From without, it seems to be a carport... and from below features amazing stone-masonry working with countless thousands of chunks of slate. White wines: All whites are sulphur-blocked after fermentation to avoid malo, which would destroy all trace of the Douro mineral terroir. Niepoort Tiara Branco Tiara is Niepoort s latest creation: a fresh, elegant white wine. Tiara s freshness and acidity is not typical for Douro white wines but the concentration of old vines is distinctively Douro. The slow fermentation (3 months) and the altitude of the vines give elegance and freshness and the age (average 60 years) of the vines are responsible for the concentration. Blend of 5 white varieties, based on 100 year old Codega vines grown at 600-800m. A clean, thrilling style with citric flesh, a touch of bitter herb and exceptional finesse. There s soft tannin/glyceric expression and texture mid-palate, and a lovely easy release, finishes gentle and complete. Niepoort Redoma Branco The vineyards for the Redoma White are all above 400 metres, up to 800 metres, thus having a cooler (particularly at night) and longer ripening period. All vineyards are over 60 years old, three of them being very old (over 100 years old). The main variety is Rabigato, having a high portion of Codega and some other varieties. Malvasia Fina is not used in the blend. Creamy pear-apple with light peach and very fine. Niepoort Redoma Reserva Branco Redoma Branco comes from small and very old vineyards, with many different varieties, the most important are: Rabigato, Codega, Donzelinho, Viosinho and Arinto. These vineyards are planted at 700 metres in yellow schist and also granitic slate, on the right side of Douro river. And the wine? - both ripe and fresh/mineral, with concentration and complexity. As with the Redoma standard, it s rich pear with apple, sour herb, good levels of florality and spice, very clean and mineral at the back, long, mild and never more than mid-weight. A wonderful argument for the absence of malo from Burgundian -styled wines. Red wines: Note, from 2007 all wines are made in the you-beaut new winery at Quinta do Napoles. Fruit is hand sorted and destemmed and handled entirely by gravity. Fermentation takes place mostly in open circular stainless steel lagares, with some Seguin Moureau foudre also in use.
Niepoort Sempar In 2002 Niepoort first created their Fabelhaft range of wines that symbolise the joy and celebration of good food, good friends, good life, a wine for pure pleasure. The aim was always to express Douro Valley character in an approachable, fresh way, avoiding heaviness and over extraction. Sempar is in keeping with this spirit - a blend of many Douro varieties (Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca and Tinto Cão), producing a fresh, fruit driven wine, with the complexity of the Douro. Intense red fruit and spice teams with a typical Douro schist stony character. The palate is vibrant and appealing, with bright fruit, juicy tannins and good acidity that extends the back palate. Niepoort quality at this price!? What a bargain! Niepoort Vertente Vertente means the slope of a hill at which there are always several ways to look. The innovation alluded to is Dirk s use of temperature controlled stainless steel lagar in which the wine is trodden and fermented before 16 months in oak a fresh take on tradition. A rich, ruby red to look at, and smells of red berry fruits run through with prominent smokey-ashy Douro schist terroir aromas. There s some game, husky-nuttiness, and back notes of cola, cold tea and briar. The palate has good volume of sweet fleshy fruit, cleansing-drying tea-like fruit tannins and very very subtle oak tucked well in down the back stretch. Overall, a lively fresh wine of just about mid-weight. It s a calm, fine and refined expression of Douro red berry earthiness. Touriga Franca, Nacional and a little Tinta Amarela. Niepoort Redoma Douro Open-hearted, rustic and dry, it s deft and deceptively light at first. Fills quickly with the advent of air, revealing complex blue, black and red fruits with tobacco, charred meat, sweet and sour cherry, wet stones and a lash of spicy, earthy minerals. Oak is lovely and very delicate (much of it is old, and 40% is aged in big Italian-made foudre of Slovenian oak) with full tannins and fuzzy acidity the main structural influences. Controlled rusticity, fermentation using traditional lagares, but with water jacketing for temperature control during fermentation. Fruit from Quinta do Napoles, with Tinta Amarela dominant in the field blend, soil influences are open and earthy due to the yellow slate in the (predominantly North-facing) vineyards here. Redoma is a Cloche-glass dome, referring to the preciousness inside the glass, not what s projected from outside. Niepoort Batuta Batuta (meaning the orchestral conductor s baton) is a 100 year old vine selection of Quinta do Carril adjacent to Quinta do Napoles, like Redoma it has Tinta Amarela as its basis in the field blend (south facing at around 200m), and a high proportion of blue slate here gives focus and minerality. Fermented in stainless lagares, it is ethereally perfumed, and has exquisite dark cherry cola/bitter chocolate fruit, mountain herbs, tobacco, soy and cool-but-spicy-ashy minerals. Mild, beautifully integrated, very fine wine. Niepoort Charme Charme is all about elegance and balance, achieved by taking special attention to the smallest details during all the wine making process. Small, sheltered vineyards produce gentle and elegant fruit, with relatively low alcohol and high acidity - Charme is Dirk s attempt at Douro Burgundy! Its sourberry red fruits are spicy, pippy, gamey and earthy with wet stone/damp potting clay and a touch of confiture. There s great torque on the palate due to finesse of tannins and crunchy/spicy/sour acid nerve running the entire length of the wine. Whole fruit with all stems is fermented first in lagares and finishes fermentation plus malo and ageing 16 months in Francois Freres French barriques. The only racking takes place after Malo. Field blend fruit leads with Touriga Franca, some Tinta Roriz and a little Tinta Amarela. The vineyard is North facing, hence cooler than many Douro sites, and is flattish and holds water.
Niepoort Robustus Douro Half Redoma-half Batuta fruit, aged 4 years in in 2 old Slovenian oak vats, one of 1,000 litres and another 2,000. Fruit is processed with 30% stems and spends 30 days on skins. Smooth, iron fist in a velvet glove style with thick tannins and metally-earthy acid structure. Gamey and inky, it s somewhat Italianate in palate effect, with creamy blue fruits, animal-gamey bits, graphite, Indian ink, cola, homemade blackberry/dark cherry conserve. Niepoort Projectos Pinot Noir The project being to see if Pinot could succeed in the Douro. This is both flat-out varietal, and unmistakeably Douro with a thread of that tobacco-and-soot earthy minerality lining the back half of otherwise regulation Pinot fruit. 12,000 plants/ha on a tiny secret vineyard hidden out the back of Quinta do Carril, planted in 1999 at 250m altitude, north facing. Niepoort-Telmo Rodriguez omlet Douro Niepoort has finally launched their wine produced in Portugal by Telmo Rodriguez ( omlet is Telmo backwards!). It comes from two vineyards in the Covas do Douro area. Made with great care, without extractions and remaining on skins for 15 days before going into new French oak barrels (500 l) for 20 months maturation. It is very expressive, fresh, aromatic and elegant with race and precise tannins, this wine is just fantastic and with a great future ahead. Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Sousao and all the other varieties common in old vines. Niepoort DODA Douro-Dão blend Vinha da Mesa DODA is a joint venture. Do (short for Douro) from Niepoort is joined with Da (short for Dao) with Alvaro Castro providing fresh elegant material to counterpoint the power and richness of Douro fruit the result is lovely, perfumed, raspberry fruit aromas, with richness and freshness on the palate. Tannins are firm, acidity bright, and there s a creamy feel to the whole. The schistous power of Douro fruit melds beautifully with the almost maritime freshness of Dao s granite soils. Port wines Niepoort Dry White Port (aperitif style) White port is made from white grapes (Malvasia, Viosinho and Gouveio). The juice is fermented as a white wine until the fermentation is stopped by the addition of pure grape brandy. After spending one year in large wood tanks the wine is transferred to 550 litre oak barrels; then aged in wood for at least 3 years before bottling. Niepoort Ruby Port Ruby Port is a young, ripping red berry fruit-earth-spice style, that is just delicious. It keeps well for several years, although the wine will not improve with age. No decanting is necessary since the wine contains no sediment. Niepoort Late-Bottled Vintage Port 375ml Late Bottled Vintage Port is a from a single year, aged for 4-6 years in old oak casks (opposed to Vintage that ages 2-3). LBV fills the gap between the rubies and the vintage ports since a Ruby Port should be drunk quite young and a great Vintage Port may need 15 to 20 years to really open up and show its splendour. Unfiltered, with very good concentration and tons of spice. Will develop beautifully over several years.
Niepoort Vintage Port The magic of Vintage Port is different in every phase: as a young wine it captures the youthful fruit characters, then after 20 years or more the effects of the slow bottle age integration are revealed and finally after many decades the spirit dominates the wine. Amazing in all the three phases. The maturation of Vintage Port occurs in the bottle - it is more reductive than cask ageing and the wine that results has a fruitiness and power which develops in the traditional ageing vessel, the classic, thick, black port bottle. 1987 Niepoort Vintage Port 1983 Niepoort Vintage Port What joy ready-to-drink A Grade VP. The 83 s right in the slot (albeit with another 20 years up its sleeve!). 1986 Niepoort Colheita Tawny Port Colheitas are dated Tawnies aged in cask, with minimum ageing requirement of 7 years, but the tradition is to age for longer in casks before bottling. Taking on a tawny hue, wood and nutty tones are evident on the palate due to the slow ageing in old casks. Colheita Port does not need decanting. 1952 Niepoort Garrafeira The so-called Garrafeiras are a speciality of Niepoort. These ports from a single year age for decades, not in wood but in special small glass containers demijons (7 to 11 litre glass balloons in the form of old apothecaries bottles). Demijon bottles are no longer produced so at Niepoort the 18th century demijons are used and re-used. This type of ageing adds a unique character derived from prolonged direct contact with the glass demijons. The Niepoorts' Garrafeira cellar is secluded from the bustle of the town, filled with tranquility and tradition, and inspires respect for the longevity of the wines.