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Crozes Hermitage La Matinière 2007 88+ points (no new oak) Deep red. Spicy, sharply focused red berry and mineral aromas are complicated by blood orange and a hint of smoked meat. Very tight on the palate, showing a tangy, red berry-dominated personality, with firm tannins adding grip. A bitter cherry note comes up on the chewy, persistent finish. I suspect this recently bottled wine will gain in flesh over the next year or so.

Crozes Ermitage Le Grand Courtil 2007 86-88 points Deep ruby. Ripe cherry and dark chocolate on the nose, with musky herbal and licorice qualities lending a brooding quality. Deep and chewy, with powerful dark fruit compote flavors and a vaguely tarry note on the back. Showing a sullen side today and tough to read.

Cote-Rôtie L'Eglantine 2007 89-90 points Bright red. Vibrant red berry and smoky mineral aromas are precise and youthful. Firm cherry and berry skin flavors are sharply focused and tangy, with a back-end kick of licorice. Showing a delicate, somewhat understated personality today. Finishes with gentle grip and tangy lift.

Condrieu Les Mandouls 2007 89 points Light, green-tinged yellow. Zesty lemon and lime aromas are complicated by talc and white flowers. Light in body and precise, with finely etched, gently sweet citrus and pit fruit flavors and an undercurrent of tangy minerals. A lithe, feminine version of Condrieu that finishes with very good clarity and cut.

Cornas Les Grands Muriers 2007 88-91 points Inky ruby. Spicy dark berry and tobacco aromas are deepened by smoked meat and licorice, with a floral quality emerging with air. Much more energetic on the palate, where precise red fruit and mineral flavors are complemented by violet pastille and cracked pepper. Became increasingly brisk and sweet with air. Finishes with good mineral bite and persistence.

Ermitage Les Dionnières 2007 91-93 points Inky ruby. Complex, enticing bouquet of red berries, sandalwood, potpourri, minerals and smoked meat. Fleshy and sweet, with vivid black raspberry and kirsch flavors, silky tannins and excellent mineral lift. A very energetic, stylish wine with lively finishing notes of raspberry, graphite and floral pastille.

Ermitage Le Méal 2007 89-92 points Saturated ruby. Very rich aromas of roasted cassis, cherry, licorice and cured meat. Deep black and blue fruit flavors display good depth, with velvety tannins adding stricture. Gains weight with air and finishes with floral and sweet tobacco notes. I prefer the Dionnieres today for its elegance but fans of powerful syrah will prefer this one.

Saint Joseph La Source 2007 90+ points Deep ruby. Vibrantly scented aromas of fresh black and blue fruits, graphite and smoky Indian spices. Nervy and precise, with fresh blackcurrant and blueberry flavors nicely framed by fine-grained tannins. Very young and very promising, with excellent finishing clarity and cut.

Ermitage Blanc Le Reverdy 2007 90 points (50% each of marsanne and roussanne) Green-gold. Pungent, smoky apricot, pear and mirabelle on the nose, with complicating notes of quinine, hazelnut and floral honey. Impressively complex on the palate too, showing lush orchard and pit fruit flavors, tangy minerality and a sneaky note of sweet tangerine. Pretty seductive, with excellent finishing energy, cling and length.

Hermitage Blanc Les Miaux 2007 88 points (100% marsanne) Yellow-gold. Very rich aromas of floral honey, poached pear and smoked meat. Broad and fleshy, with deep pit fruit flavors, soft acidity and gentle back-end lift. This dense, old-school white Hermitage needs seriously rich food. Finishes with good length and an echo of toasted nuts.

Hermitage Les Miaux 2007 90-93 points Deep ruby with a bright rim. Sexy, exotic scents of dark berries, flowers and game, plus a hint of smoky minerals. Sweet cherry-cola and cassis flavors coat the palate, with zesty minerality giving spine to the wine. Gains sweetness with air, finishing with suave vanilla and baking spice qualities. Already seductive but has the depth and structure to reward cellaring.