Page 1 of 25 HOWTO: Install Brake Pads, Rotors, and Lines Introduction Based on the guide written by sok07 on www.mazda3forums.com Reproduced with Permission. Edited with commentary by Wild Weasel The following is a step by step guide to replacing the front & rear rotors & brake pads on a 2.3L Mazda3. Note that both the 2.0L Mazda3 and the Mazdaspeed3 use different parts than those s here, so while these instructions can be used as a general guide, things like torque specs or details specific to this car may not apply. Tools Needed Jack Socket set (14mm and 17mm 6pt sockets) Breaker bar 7mm hex/allen key. Metric flare nut wrenches. Mallet Brake pad spreader or c-clamp Blue Loctite 10-100 ft-lb torque wrench Brake caliper lubricant or white grease Brake cleaner Brake fluid.
Page 2 of 25 Torque Specs Front Caliper Pins: 19-22 ft-lbs. Front Caliper Bracket: 57-75 ft-lbs. Rear Caliper Pins: 19-22 ft-lbs. Rear Caliper Bracket 44-56 ft-lbs. Front Brake Line: 15-20 ft-lbs. Rear Brake Line: 12-16 ft-lbs. Wheel Lug Nuts: 80-90 ft-lbs. Bleeding the Brake System If you are only replacing the pads and rotors, you will not normally have to bleed the you've found your pedal feel to be mushy and suspect there is air in the lines. If you are replacing the lines though, or otherwise opening any parts of the system which may air (this does not include removing the reservoir cap) then you will have to bleed the lines to pu any air. Generic instructions for doing so can be found here. Preparation 1. 2. 3. Ensure that the car is in gear and the parking brake is off. Chock the wheels to ensure the car doesn't roll. Jack up the side of the vehicle and secure with sturdy jack stands. Never work under a car supported only by a jack. It is recommended that you use stands rated for at least 3 tons each. Front Rotor & Pad Install / Replacement 1. Remove the wheel. 2. Using a flat-head screwdriver pop off the spring clip. The spring clip will pop/fly off, I would hate for you to lose an eye to an errant spring clip.
Page 3 of 25 3. Find the two plastic dust caps that are snapped on the back of the caliper and remove the Using the 7mm allen/hex key remove the caliper bolt/pin. To bleed the brake when chang pads, the bleeder valve is circled in orange.
Page 4 of 25 4. Slide off the caliper and place it on the upright. Using a piece of wire or string tie/hang the caliper on the strut to prevent strain on the brake line. If you are swapping brake pads, th
Page 5 of 25 closest to you is just held by the caliper mounting bracket. The other pad is clipped to the caliper piston. 5. To remove the caliper mount bracket, locate the two bolts on the back of the front Using a ratchet, 17mm socket, and a breaker bar; remove the two bolts.
Page 6 of 25 6. The rotor should now be free, so just slide off the stock rotor from the hub/upright. If the doesn't come off easily, it is probably just rusted on. Using a mallet, just tap the along the circumference of the center part of the rotor to jar the rotor free from the hub.
Page 7 of 25 7. Slide on the new rotor, and hold it in place using a spacer and a lugnut.
Page 8 of 25 8. Reinstall the caliper mount bracket to the upright. Be sure to apply some blue loctite on th bolts. 9. Install the brake pad. Simply place the outer pad on the caliper mount bracket and clip the inner brake pad to the caliper piston.
Page 9 of 25 10. Slide the caliper over the outer brakepad and rotor. If you can't slide the caliper on, you m have to compress the piston. To do so, take the lid off the brake fluid reservoir and ensure it is not full to the top. If fluid has been added, this may be the case and some may have removed. When the piston is pushed back in, the fluid level will rise and you absolutely do want to spill any. Brake fluid is extremely corrosive to paint. With the pad in place over th piston, use a c-clamp or pad spreader to push the piston back into the caliper. In my case simple rotor change w/ no brake pad swap...i didn't have to compress the piston. Lube & reinstall the two caliper bolt/pin, reinstall the dust cap, and spring clip. Finally, remove the lugnut and spacer that you used to hold the rotor in place.
Page 10 of 25 Rear Rotor & Pad Install / Replacement 1. Jack up car and remove wheel. Using a flat-head screwdriver pop off the spring clip. The clip will pop/fly off, so beware.
Page 11 of 25 2. Find the two plastic dust caps that are just snapped-on the back of the caliper and remove them. Using the 7mm allen/hex key remove the caliper bolt/pin.
Page 12 of 25 3. Slide off the caliper and place it somewhere as to not put any excessive strain on In my case, I just gently wedged it between the shock and a nearby strip of flanged sheet metal in the wheelwell. If you are swapping brake pads, the pad closest to you is just held
Page 13 of 25 the caliper mounting bracket. The other pad is clipped to the caliper piston. 4. To remove the caliper mount bracket, locate the two bolts on the back of the rear upright. Using a ratchet, 14mm socket, and a breaker bar; remove the two bolts.
Page 14 of 25 5. The rotor should now be free, so just slide off the stock rotor from the hub/upright. If the doesn't come off easily, it is probably just rusted on. Using a mallet, just tap the along the circumference of the center part of the rotor to jar the rotor free from the hub.
Page 15 of 25 6. Slide on the new rotor, and hold it in place using a spacer and a lugnut.
Page 16 of 25 7. Reinstall the caliper mount bracket to the upright. Be sure to apply some blue loctite on th bolts. 8. Install the brake pad. Simply place the outer pad on the caliper mount bracket. The inner needs to be slid into place on the piston. Note the flange on the piston and the clips on the of the pad.
Page 17 of 25 9. Slide the caliper over the outer brake pad and rotor. If you can't slide the caliper on, you m have compress the piston. To do this you will have to either get a special brake tool from a auto parts store, or simply use needle-nose pliers to rotate the piston. On the piston you w
Page 18 of 25 see two circluar indentions. Place the tips of the pliers in the indentions and rotate the pist clockwise to compress it back into the caliper. As with the front, be sure to first take the li the fluid reservoir and watch to ensure it doesn't overflow while you compress the piston. Note from Wild Weasel: I've noticed that there is a lot of commentary in the forums about people having difficulty compressing the rear pistons. I want to be very clear about this. If you haven't done rear calipers before and are not familiar with how they work, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS with needlenose pliars. I know it can be done and have done it myself several times, but it will almost certainly be a very frustrating endeavour. If you don't own a rear caliper compressor tool, go out and buy or rent one. Many auto parts places lend them out for free. The piston has to be pressed and rotated back in. It doesn't push straight in and it doesn't screw in. The tool will press and turn at the same time, and make this job very easy. 10. Lube & reinstall the two caliper bolts/pins, reinstall the dust caps, and spring clip. Finally, remove the lugnut and spacer that you used to hold the rotor in place.
Page 19 of 25 11. After completing the install & remounting the wheels, get into the car and press the brake a few times to build up pressure, and engage and disengage the e-brake a few times. The brakes are self-adjusting, and it will calibrate/align the piston by the use of the e Techna-fit Braided SS Brake Lines - (Front) 1. Check the brake fluid level, top off if necessary. Jack up car and remove wheel. Using a fla head screwdriver and mallet remove the clips holding the brake line to the strut and to the frame mounted brake line bracket.
Page 20 of 25 2. Place a catch can/basin under the caliper to catch the brake fluid. Using a 13mm flare wrench, unscrew the brake line from the caliper.
Page 21 of 25 3. Using a 16mm open end wrench to hold the top and a 10mm flare nut wrench to turn the bottom nut, to loosen the compression fitting. Unscrew the bottom 10mm flare nut until it disconnected from the rubber brake line.
Page 22 of 25 4. Attach the brake line to the hard line. Using an 17mm flare nut and a 10mm flare nut tighten the bottom flare nut.
Page 23 of 25 5. Slide the retaining collar up the brake line and insert it into the brake line clip on the Using a 13mm flare nut wrench, attach/tighten the flare nut to the caliper. Gently pull on section between the strut mount and the caliper to ensure that there is a just a little slack
Page 24 of 25 the brake line, this is to ensure that there is no strain on the lines when the wheels Re-install the (2) brake line retaining clips on the strut and the frame bracket. 6. Follow the procedures to properly bleed the brake lines, and purge any air out of After each line change, top off the brake fluid level in the reservoir using Dot3 brake fluid. If you found these pages helpful, please donate and sign the guest book. In many cases, these pages aren't only helpful but can save you a little or a lot of mon If the tips you found here helped you save money by doing something yourself, or preventing you from making costly mistakes, then please show your appreciation by sending a few bucks my way to help pay for the site. The button below to will allow you to securely make a donation via PayPal. Sign my GuestBook! View my GuestBook!
WOW! Read this entire string and cannot believe that it took 2+ years before VTLUU posted the correct procedures for adjusting the rear brakes!!! Almost... Here are some notes that perhaps should be added to the first post...some have been mentioned but tend to be scattered about 4 pages of posts... FRONT CALIPER PISTONS- can be compressed with a conventional C-Clamp. REAR CALIPER PISTONS- are on a threaded ratcheting affair that WILL be damaged if you exert TOO much pressure while trying to get the pistons to retract. I'm a believer in purchasing the correct tool to do this job...it just saves you time in the long and short run! (See Harbor Freight tool kit ref...) I BELIEVE, but have not seen it in any books yet, because I cannot find any books..., but this system looks a LOT like the 90's Ford parking brake system... If your rear calipers with pads installed are really sloppy on the rotor, you are supposed to screw the piston back out (anti-clockwise! ) until there is perhaps.030" or so of clearance, or as close as you can get and have the two holes in the piston oriented properly so that the pin in the back of the inner pad fits into the hole properly (A PIC OF THIS WOULD BE NICE!)... Once installed on the vehicle, repeated applications and releases of the parking brake foot pedal is supposed to adjust the caliper automagically. I THINK this is the same!!! Again, I am going on my experiences with similar brake systems...and have not YET done our 3... Perhaps in a week or so...when I get parts and time... Once you have done both sides, and done the parking brake cycling thing, you can then check for proper rotation of the wheels (nothing binding)...and then go test drive. GREAT TIP!!! Rather than pushing all of the old fluid back up into the brake master cylinder, open the bleeder valve and using a piece of clear vinyl hose and an old plastic drink bottle, push the old fluid out into it. This applies to front and rear calipers!!! (Rears can be a real beyatch with the extra parking brake cable attached...but it can be done...) Save the environment, send your old brake fluid to the hazardous waste cleanup in your city... three or four brake jobs and you will have a full container. If you are worried about a little air getting into the system, use the same tubing/bottle and get a SO or a buddy to lend you a foot, and bleed the brakes a little. Just remember to fill the reservoir before you start and do NOT let it get empty. You really only will need a couple of strokes of the brake pedal to get any bubbles out that may have gotten into the calipers...or until you get clear fluid if it has been in there toooooooooo long... watch that reservoir level!!!! PS I like using Castrol LMA dot4 (Low Moisture Absorbing) brake fluid. Here is another GREAT tip! (Courtesy of an old instructor at Bendix! Pass it on!!!!) To prevent damage to the master cylinder seals when bleeding your brakes, put a piece of 2x4 under the brake pedal to prevent the pedal from going all the way to the floor when you open a bleeder valve. This keeps the piston from passing over areas of the master cylinder bore that have not seen seals since the day it was assembled... there could be buildups of grunge in this "unused" area of the bore, and the extra movement allowed by a wide open bleeder valve will let the pedal go all the way down, and push the piston seals over this crap, and could damage it or get crud stuck in it...then you'll be replacing the master cylinder...
Why do these pistons go back in so hard???? Brake fluid is not really a lubricant. The amount of movement between the piston and the retractor (seal) is minimal as wear of the pads/rotor is minute...but it does move over repeated operations... so basically this contact is dry... When these pistons are assembled initially, there was probably some sort of brake assembly lube used (REALLY slippery snot...), and I STRONGLY recommend that you use this instead of brake fluid if you happen to remove the pistons and are putting them back into their bores...a little bottle will last a lifetime...sorta like anti-sieze! But once you put this on the piston and seal you will be able to push them in with your fingers! (THIS APPLIES ONLY IF YOU HAVE REMOVED THE PISTON FROM THE CALIPER...!) Front pistons will self adjust the first time you depress the brake pedal! Nothing special needed for them... NOTE: DO NOT let your calipers hang by the rubber brake hose!!! If you must hang them, bend up a hanger out of coat hanger or welding rod etc to use to hold them up. You do not want to risk damaging the hoses...be careful! Wipe braking surfaces down with acetone or worst case paint thinner, or brake cleaner, to remove any grease or garp off of your freshly cut or new rotors (or pads!) before you put the calipers back onto the rotors and tighten them down. Grease/oil in significant amounts can mess up a new brake job...creates stickies...hot spots...mess...more$$$$... SO, don't hammer on stuff or force things that you do not understand, spend the $40 or so, that you saved by DIY...and buy the proper tools. If you love this car as much as most do, you will use the tools again...and will be able to SLAM this job out in about a half hour per side if you are drinking beer...20 minutes if not...and you will be thanking yourself for buying the tools the first time...