Suzuki Katana Fender Eliminator

Transcription

1 Suzuki Katana Fender Eliminator The following are instructions and illustrations on the installation of the custom fender elimination. 1

2 Begin by removing seat, both rear fairings, and tail light assembly. Remove any existing turnsignals and get everything down to the bare bones. Now it s time to start cutting and you have a couple of choices here. You can either use a dremel tool if you have one, or get a good sharp utility knife along with either a torch or candle (to heat up the blade and help get through the plastic). I have noted some reference points to help guide you on where to cut, and what should be left when you re done. It will help you to occasionally put the fairing pieces back on to check your progress. This is what it will look like This is what it will look like once you re done cutting. once you re done cutting. Note the clean straight line Note the clean straight line along the bottom of the along the bottom of the fender. This will go in fender. This will go in conjunction with you rear conjunction with you rear fairings, less about 3/16 of fairings, less about 3/16 of an inch, as you will see. an inch, as you will see. 2

3 These two tabs that you will create These two tabs that you will create during the cutting process are the only during the cutting process are the only part of the fender that will extend part of the fender that will extend below the rear fairings. Note that they below the rear fairings. Note that they have been squared off for a clean have been squared off for a clean look. look. Some reference points to help you determine where Some reference points to help you determine where to cut the fender. Again, it will help to occasionally to cut the fender. Again, it will help to occasionally put the fairings back on to check your progress. put the fairings back on to check your progress. The left and right arrows show that the cut is just at The left and right arrows show that the cut is just at the bottome of the wire channels. the bottome of the wire channels. 3

4 The glass surface of the The glass surface of the assembly will rest here. assembly will rest here. The bracket surface of the The bracket surface of the assembly will rest here on assembly will rest here on the tab. the tab. Important! Important! You need to cut the fender above the tab at this You need to cut the fender above the tab at this point. It is about a quarter inch, but this will also point. It is about a quarter inch, but this will also help you determine if you have removed enough help you determine if you have removed enough (be sure not to remove too much). The assembly (be sure not to remove too much). The assembly will rest in the two points listed above. When it fits will rest in the two points listed above. When it fits comfortable as noted, you have removed enough. comfortable as noted, you have removed enough. You will remove this small You will remove this small section of fender to continue section of fender to continue the line. the line. Note: Take your time cutting and Note: Take your time cutting and squaring off these tabs. It will make squaring off these tabs. It will make things go smoother and keep things things go smoother and keep things looking a lot cleaner. looking a lot cleaner. 4

5 An example of placing the An example of placing the fairing back on the bike to fairing back on the bike to check your progress. Note check your progress. Note the space between where the space between where the fender stops and where the fender stops and where the fairing is. There is about the fairing is. There is about a 3/16 gap which will a 3/16 gap which will accommodate the lense. accommodate the lense. Again, the tab is the only Again, the tab is the only part of the fender that part of the fender that extends down past the extends down past the fairing. fairing. Another shot of the gap. Another shot of the gap. 5

6 An overview of the fender An overview of the fender once cutting is complete. once cutting is complete. Again, note the staight line Again, note the staight line which goes along with the which goes along with the fairings. fairings. How are you doing so far? If you ve made it here then you re in the home stretch. The next step is to install the stock license plate light into the fender so that you can satisfy those darn local laws. You will need a 9/16 drill bit, but a 1/2 will do if you don t have that. You will be drilling a whole in the location noted on the next page. If you have to drill with a 1/2 bit, you will need to ream out the whole slightly to accommodate the stock light socket. Once done, the light fixture will be pushed in from the top side and will fit snuggly into the hole. You can use your stock clear light bulb, or get a colored one from your local auto parts store. The nice thing is that if you choose to use a colored bulb and have to change it out for any reason, it will be easy to do so with no tools. 6

7 See that outline of a circle there that s your target, drill that See that outline of a circle there that s your target, drill that puppy out. Again, don t forget to ream it out if you have to use puppy out. Again, don t forget to ream it out if you have to use a 1/2 bit. The light fixture should fit snug, but not too tight or a 1/2 bit. The light fixture should fit snug, but not too tight or you won t be able to get the bulb in. you won t be able to get the bulb in. Okay, demolition is now complete. From this point on it s all assembly. The following is the assembly process. Be sure to follow it closely so you won t have any problems. 7

8 You need to do some pre-assembly of the turn signals and bracket before you mount it. This installation is a tight fit, but that s one of the reasons that it looks so clean. First, wire up your signals so that you have about 1 1/2 ft of wire on each one. I recommend that you wrap the last few inches of wire to protect from the elements, as well as hide them. Next, run the wires through the bracket holes and then through the nuts (Let them dangle as shown below). Then run the wires up the chase into the trunk space of the bike. Leave yourself about 6 inches or so of slack to complete the assembly. You ll pull up the slack from the trunk later. **Note: If you are using thicker wire, you may need to drill out the chase to accommodate all four wires. As you can see, I had to run my 4th wire a different route. My 4th wire. My 4th wire. Chase is a bit too small for Chase is a bit too small for my needs. my needs. Nuts for the signals Nuts for the signals First few inches of wire First few inches of wire wrapped in electrical tape. wrapped in electrical tape. 8

9 In this area next to the wire chase, you will install the foam tape which will help seal the unit In this area next to the wire chase, you will install the foam tape which will help seal the unit from the elements. This will help you keep the dirt from getting to the inside of the lense, from the elements. This will help you keep the dirt from getting to the inside of the lense, which would cause you to have to disassemble everything to clean. You will place 3 layers of which would cause you to have to disassemble everything to clean. You will place 3 layers of this tape here, pealing off the protective tape after each layer. this tape here, pealing off the protective tape after each layer. 9

10 Time for some reflection. You re going take the chrome tape and place it in the areas from (and including) the foam tape back. Just take your time, cut the tape and place it in there. Yours will differ slightly from mine if you are using the stock light, but basically, you want to cover all of the plastic surfaces so the it will reflect the light down. As you can see below, you need to also wrap the tape over the side and bottom of the foam tape, this will help with the look. Do not compress the foam tape when you do this. 10

11 Time to put it all together. First put the right fairing back on the bike. Note that the fairing rests on top of the tab (as it did originally). Make sure the clip/nut is still on the fairing. Next, slip the assembly into its location placing the glass portion inside the fairing, while letting the bracket rest on the bottom of the tab. Glass/Lexan portion slips in Glass/Lexan portion slips in and above the lip of the and above the lip of the fairing. fairing. Bracket rests on the bottom Bracket rests on the bottom of the tab. of the tab. 11

12 Now, secure the right side fairing with the original screw. As you can see, it s a tight fit (which is why your turn signals aren t mounted yet. It may be a little tricky to get the screw started, but just move the assembly, or fairing slightly until you get it. Tighten down, but not fully at this point. Screw Tight Fit! Screw Tight Fit! 12

13 Now time for the left side fairing. Install the fairing just like the right side is installed paying careful attention to make sure everything lines up. See notes below. **Warning, watch yourself here or you may end up scratching some of your fairing where they clip together on the top above your tail light. Lense slips inside lip of rear Lense slips inside lip of rear fairing. fairing. Clip/Nut still on the fairing. Clip/Nut still on the fairing. Bracket goes below the tab. Bracket goes below the tab. Once you get the left side fairing on, insert the other screw through the bracket and secure it. You should have a slight bit of play in the assembly since you left the two screws loose in case you have to make any adjustment, which you shouldn t. If everything looks okay, tighten them down. 13

14 Okay, here we are all back together except the signals and plate. Take each signal and put it through the hole while holding the nut against the bracket. Again, it s a tight fit so you have to kind of work the light and the nut together to get it threaded through and tightened down. 14

15 Once you have the lights tightened down, work the slack in the wire back up through the chase to clean it up. That s it!!! Just screw on you plate and you re good to go! Couple of finished photos on the next page. 15

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