MALLORCA MAY Ferran Pujol, Nico Ordax and Claudio Bracho (L to R) at Cúber Reservoir (Ferran Pujol)

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1 MALLORCA MAY 2016 Ferran Pujol, Nico Ordax and Claudio Bracho (L to R) at Cúber Reservoir (Ferran Pujol) Introduction: Mallorca is one of the favourite destinations for tourists all around Europe thanks to its great climate and excellent tourist infrastructure. Many birdwatchers visit the island as it offers a great variety of Mediterranean habitats and some endemic or very rare species and subspecies. We are three birdwatchers from Barcelona who decided to spend three days on Mallorca. We mainly focused on the endemic Balearic Warbler and on Moltoni s Warbler, although we also looked for Marbled Duck and Red-Knobbed Coot which Claudio and Nico were still missing on their life lists. Therefore, we didn t focus on other species which may be tempting for Northern- European birdwatchers but can be found easily on mainland Spain (e.g. Spectacled Warbler) As we couldn t rent a car, we did most of the trip with public transportation. This trip report doesn t only list the birds and the best spots but also includes detailed information on how to see all the important species without a car. Flights: we flew from Barcelona to Palma de Mallorca for about 25 with Ryanair. The flight back cost us 30 with Vueling (50 pp in total). Accomodation: we spent the two nights we were there at Hostal Calma, a pension at Port d Alcúdia (close to S Albufera). It was basic but clean. We took a 3 person bedroom for about 60 a night without breakfast (20 pp). The owners are British so communication in English is secured. Transportation: we used the local bus net mostly. Although we had been warned by friends that the service is quite bad, we found it to be comfortable, on time and for a

2 Trip summary: reasonable price. This is a list of the bus lines we took (more information at L1: Airport-Palma de Mallorca (5 ) this bus stops at the main bus hub. L351: Palma de Mallorca-Port d Alcúdia-Can Picafort (6 ) departs from the main bus hub. It also gets you from Port d Alcúdia to S Albufera (1,65 ). L352: Can Picafort-Port d Alcúdia-Port de Pollença (1,65 ) L354: Can Picafort-Port d Alcúdia-Port de Pollença-Port de Sóller (6 ) this bus is the only way to get to the Cúber reservoir without a car. Unfortunately, the frequencies are very low (two buses a day and no service on Sundays). The bus departs from Port de Pollença although another bus gathers the passengers from Can Picafort, Port d Alcúdia and Alcúdia and drops them of at the correct bus stop. L211: Port de Sóller-Palma de Mallorca (?) quicker than L210. L210: Port de Sóller-Palma de Mallorca (6 ) we missed the L211 at Port de Sóller so we had to take the L210 to get to Palma. This bus covers the coastal route that leads over Valldemossa and takes 2h to get to Palma. Avoid it if you can. Due to our flight schedule we had to take a taxi from the Cúber reservoir to Port de Sóller, which cost us 35 in total. 19/05/2016: arrival in the morning. Transfer to Port d Alcúdia and afternoon at S Albufera. After closing time we went to Son Real coastal area to see Balearic Warbler. 20/05/2016: hike to Cala Bóquer in the morning and afternoon at S Albufera. 21/05/2016: Port d Alcúdia-Cúber reservoir-palma de Mallorca and flight back to Barcelona. Detailed report: 19/05/2016: We arrived at 9:00 AM at Palma de Mallorca airport and took the bus to Palma. From there we got on the bus to Port d Alcúdia and started seeing the first interesting species. After passing Inca, as we were driving through an area with fields Ferran spotted a group of 4 Eleonora s Falcons to the left side of the bus, they were followed by another group of 4 to the right. A promising start. Once at Port d Alcúdia we checked in at the pension and headed directly for S Albufera. This wetland is one of the biggest coastal lagoons with one of the biggest reed beds in Spain. Despite having suffered from increasing touristic pressure it still is a great place for breeding, migrating and wintering species. You can access it from the main road that joins Port d Alcúdia and Can Picafort; the entrance is adjacent to the bridge over the main canal ( , ). After walking a short while along the entrance path, we decided to take a look at the canal from a little platform to the right. From there we could also see the Serra de la Tramuntana mountain range and suddenly we spotted a rather large raptor being harassed by several smaller ones. After following it for a while with our scope we could identify them as a Bonelli s Eagle and Marsh Harriers respectively. The main canal is flanked by a dense row of tamarisks and other trees which host a heron and egret colony. Although they re difficult to see it s very easy to hear the birds at their nests.

3 We stopped briefly at the information centre (which is open until 4:00PM) to ask about locations for Moltoni s Warbler on Mallorca but weren t very lucky. The S Albufera reserve is closed at 6:00PM but if you ask for a permit at the info centre you can stay until 9:00PM (unfortunately we were told the second day). There are several hides and platforms and the best strategy is probably spending some time at each of them. We started with the hide next to the information centre ( , ) which is tiny but offers a nice view over a lagoon. There were plenty of Black-Winged Stilts, Kentish Plovers (both with chicks), Gull-Billed and Common Terns, Pochard and Red-Crested Pochards. While we were watching a Stone Curlew which appeared to be breeding suddenly a small brown duck flew past and landed on a little island in front of the hide, our first Marbled Duck! After the first hide we continued walking along the path near to the main canal. At one point we got to a platform with a clear view of the canal where we saw a coot with a suspicious PVC collar around its neck. It was a Red-Knobbed Coot from the reintroduction program. Red-Knobbed Coots are quite common at S Albufera and they re incredibly tame. Along the canal we saw several herons such as Squacco Heron, Purple Heron and Cattle and Little Egrets. After a short while we got to a bridge crossing the main canal where we saw several Red-Crested Pochards and Red-Knobbed Coots, one of which was swimming only a couple of metres away from the bridge (and sometimes even crossing it beneath). We followed the path perpendicular to the canal which proved to be a mistake since we didn t see anything beyond the ever present Great-Reed Warblers. On our way back to the information centre, we found a coot grazing on the side of the path, it turned to be an incredibly tame Red-Knobbed Coot which let us approach up to 2m without even looking at us. After a good while taking pictures it suddenly was attacked by another Red- Knobbed Coot which had decided to take over the stage in front of our cameras. On our way back we saw several Sardinian Warblers, Nightingales and Yellow Wagtails on the meadows and Trees bordering the path. As it was 6:00PM and we still had three or four hours until sunset we took the bus towards Can Picafort. From there (bus stop , ) it s very easy to access the Son Real area: a scrubland and pine forest area adjacent to the sea. Not only is it very beautiful but it also has some very interesting bird species to offer. Our main target here was Balearic Warbler so we started checking the bushes. There are lots of Sardinian Warblers on Mallorca so don t despair and keep checking warblers. We also saw several Thekla Larks, Tawny Pipits and a Shag while walking. After walking parallel to the shore for a while we crossed a fence ( , ) and continued walking inland for a short while (don t get into the pine forest as it doesn t seem to be a good habitat for Balearic Warbler). Suddenly, we heard a short call from a close bush, our first Balearic Warbler, it showed briefly but pretty well. After a short time we also saw the female so we imagine they had their territory there ( , ). We located another pair close to the first one ( , ). There were also Wryneck, Pheasant, Red- Legged Partridge and Turtle Dove in the area. As it was getting dark we started our way back to Can Picafort, seeing Balearic Spotted Flycatcher and Woodchat Shrike and Peregrine Falcon.

4 S Albufera (Ferran Pujol) Stone Curlew at S Albufera (Ferran Pujol)

5 A very shy Red-Knobbed Coot at S Albufera (Ferran Pujol) Red-Knobbed Coot at S Albufera (Nico Ordax)

6 Son Real (Ferran Pujol) Balearic Warbler at Son Real (Nico Ordax)

7 Tawny Pipit at Son Real (Claudio Bracho) 20/05/2016: On our second day we wanted to check the Cala Bóquer area because we thought the habitat would be good for Moltoni s Warbler. We got on the bus and arrived there early in the morning in order to avoid the midday heat. The best way to go to Cala Bóquer is taking the bus to Port de Pollença and walking from there. You have to cross the fence of a house ( , ), but the doors should be open. The Bóquer Valley and Cala are a very impressive natural scenery, with low scrubs and bushes great for warblers. Unfortunately, as we found out later Moltoni s Warbler seem to be present at higher altitudes on Mallorca. We still managed to see a Balearic Warbler, Eleonora s Falcon, Booted Eagle, Melodious Warbler, Cirl Bunting and some Chaffinches along the valley. After a couple of hours in the valley we decided to return to Port d Alcúdia for lunch and spend the afternoon at S Albufera. This time we had our permit allowing us to stay until 9:00PM so we decided to use it. We started going straight for the Bishop I and II hides ( , ) where we saw a wide variety of breeding and migrating birds such as Curlew Sandpiper, Avocets, Black-Winged Stilts, Stone Curlews and Shelducks. While exiting the Bishop II hide we could see a Marbled Duck very close from the bridge that crosses the smaller canal to access the hide.

8 From another hide ( , ) we saw the Spanish endangered Reed Bunting subspecies (witherby) and an Osprey. Once we had checked most of the hides we wanted to go to the water treatment plant south from S Albufera ( , ) where we had been told Marbled Duck was easy to see. On our way there we took a path that goes through some very nice reed beds ( , ) from which we saw Moustached Warbler, Night Heron and several Yellow Wagtails. To get to the water treatment plant you have to jump over a fence ( , ), but it s not a big problem. In that area we saw a hunting Eleonora s Falcon, several Bee-Eaters and Hoopoes, but no Marbled Ducks. On our way back, after a small pine forest on the right side of the path we suddenly saw a huge raptor being harassed by Marsh Harriers and an Osprey. After the initial confusion and checking our pictures it turned out to be a Golden Eagle! After speaking to a friend from the area we were told that this is an escaped bird who is often seen around there. It was getting late and Barça was playing the Spanish Cup final so we hurried back to Port d Alcúdia. Cala Bóquer (Ferran Pujol)

9 Marbled Duck at S Albufera (Nico Ordax) Shelduck, Marsh Harrier and Golden Eagle at S Albufera (Claudio Bracho)

10 21/05/2016: Our flight was scheduled at 9:00PM and we were still missing the elusive Moltoni s Warbler, which appears to be quite scarce. We had browsed most of the forums and trip reports available online and every single one said that the Cúber reservoir is the best spot. We would have liked to check other places but accessing the Tramuntana mountain range without a car is difficult. If you re spending several days on the island and have time we encourage you to check other places in the mountains. We took the bus from Port de Pollença in the morning and after a very nice drive with amazing views we arrived about 11:30AM at the reservoir. The area around the reservoir consists mainly of scrublands and a pine forest. As it s pretty high, there are lots of Chaffinches, Crossbills, Wrynecks, Blackcaps and Chiffchaffs breeding. We also detected several Griffon and Cinereous Vultures, Crag Martins, a Blue-Rock Thrush, Tawny Pipits and an Osprey fishing in the reservoir. We walked around the southern bank of the reservoir up to the dam ( , ) where we heard the wren-like call we had been expecting: a Moltoni s Warbler. We were able to locate a pair immediately below the reservoir dam, another one crossing the dam, one at the stone quarry past the dam and on our way back we also heard a pair along the way, close to the parking spot. Having seen our last target we started our journey back to Palma to catch our flight home. Since we had to be there at 9:00PM, we took a taxi to get us to Port de Sóller, as the next bus was scheduled quite late. If you re not in a hurry however, a cheaper option is to wait for the second bus (there are two buses every day except for Sundays). Cúber Reservoir (Ferran Pujol)

11 L: Osprey and Raven (Claudio Bracho) R: Cinereous Vulture (Nico Ordax) both at Cúber Reservoir Moltoni s Warbler at Cúber Reservoir (Nico Ordax) Moltoni s Warbler at Cúber Reservoir (Claudio Bracho)

12 Complete list of species: Endemic species Endemic subspecies 1. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis: common at S Albufera. 2. Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis desmarestii: 1 ind. Son Real. 3. Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: 2 inds. from the path to the water treatment plant at S Albufera. 4. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: common. 5. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides: several at S Albufera. 6. Little Egret Egretta garzetta: common at S Albufera. 7. Great White Egret Ardea alba: 1 ind. over the information centre at S Albufera. 8. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: common. 9. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: several at S Albufera. 10. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: several at S Albufera. 11. Shelduck Tadorna tadorna: several at S Albufera. 12. Mallard Anas platyrynchos: common. 13. Shoveler Anas clypeata: 1 ind. at the water treatment plant at S Albufera. 14. Marbled Duck Marmaronetta angustirostris: 2-3 inds. at S Albufera. 15. Pochard Aythya ferina: several at S Albufera. 16. Red-Crested Pochard Netta rufina: several at S Albufera. 17. Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus: several at Cúber reservoir. 18. Cinereous Vulture Aegypius monachus: several at Cúber reservoir. 19. Osprey Pandion haliaeetus: several at S Albufera and one at Cúber reservoir. 20. Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos: an escaped ind. at S Albufera. 21. Booted Eagle Aquila pennata: 1 ind. at Bóquer valley. 22. Bonelli s Eagle Aquila fasciata: 1 ind. seen from S Albufera. 23. Red Kite Milvus milvus: 1 ind. seen from the bus from Port de Sóller to Palma. 24. Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: common. 25. Eleonora s Falcon Falco eleonorae: several seen from the bus, at S albufera and at Bóquer valley (both morphs). 26. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus: 1 ind. at Son Real. 27. Red-Legged Partridge Alectoris rufa: heard at Son Real. 28. Pheasant Phasianus colchicus: Heard at Son Real. 29. Water Rail Rallus aquaticus: several at S Albufera. 30. Moorhen Gallinula choloropus: common. 31. Eurasian Coot Fulica atra: common. 32. Red-Knobbed Coot Fulica cristata: several at S Albufera. Very easy to approach. 33. Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio: several at S Albufera. 34. Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta: several at S Albufera. 35. Black-Winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: common at S Albufera. 36. Stone Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus: several at S Albufera. 37. Little-Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: common at S Albufera. 38. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus: common at S Albufera. 39. Lapwing Vanellus vanellus: 1 ind. at the information centre. 40. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea: 1 ind. from the Bishop II hide at S Albufera. 41. Greenshank Tringa glareola: 1 ind. from the Bishop II hide at S Albufera.

13 42. Black-Headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus: several at S Albufera. 43. Yellow-Legged Gull Larus michahellis: common. 44. Audouin s Gull Larus audouinii: several at S Albufera. 45. Gull-Billed Tern Sterna nilotica: several at S Albufera. 46. Common Tern Sterna hirundo: several at S Albufera. 47. Feral Pigeon Columba livia: common. 48. Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus: common. 49. Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto: common. 50. Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur: heard at Son Real. 51. Swift Apus apus: common. We didn t really check for pallid swift but it breeds on Mallorca. 52. Hoopoe Upupa epops: at least one at Bóquer valley and one at S Albufera. Common bird on fields and open landscapes. 53. Bee-Eater Merops apiaster: several on different locations. 54. Wryneck Jynx torquilla: 1 singing male at Son Real and at least 4 at Cúber reservoir. 55. Thekla Lark Galerida theklae: several at Son Real. 56. Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris: several at Cúber reservoir. 57. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: common. 58. House Martin Delichon urbicum: common. 59. Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris: several at Son Real and Cúber reservoir. 60. White Wagtail Motacilla alba: common. 61. Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava: several at S Albufera. 62. Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos: common. 63. Stonechat Saxicola torquata: common in open landscapes. 64. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius: 1 ind. at the quarry past the dam at Cúber reservoir. 65. Blackbird Turdus merula: common. 66. Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla: common. 67. Sardinian warbler Sylvia melanocephala: common. 68. Moltoni s Warbler Sylvia moltoni: at least four family groups or calling inds. At Cúber reservoir. The dam seems to be the easiest spot. Difficult to see but easy to locate thanks to the call (very similar to a Wren). 69. Balearic Warbler Sylvia balearica: two pairs at Son Real and one ind. at Bóquer valley. 70. Moustached Warbler Acrocephalus melanopogon: several at S Albufera. 71. Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis: common. 72. Cetti s Warbler: Cettia cetti: common at S Albufera. 73. Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus: common at S Albufera. 74. Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus: common at S Albufera. 75. Melodious Warbler Hippolais polyglotta: at least one at Bóquer Valley. 76. Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita: several singing at Cúber reservoir. 77. Balearic Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata balearica: common in open areas, we even saw one in Port d Alcúdia at the beach promenade. 78. Great Tit Parus major: common. 79. Balearic Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator badius: at least one at Son Real and several seen from the bus. 80. Magpie Pica pica: common. 81. Raven Corvus corax: common. 82. House Sparrow Passer domesticus: common.

14 83. Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs: common at Cúber reservoir and several at Bóquer Valley. 84. Linnet Carduelis cannabina: common. 85. Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis: common. 86. Greenfinch Carduelis chloris: common. 87. Serin Serinus serinus: common. 88. Balearic Crossbill Loxia curvirostra balearica: common at Cúber reservoir. 89. Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus witherby: 1 ind. at S Albufera. 90. Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus: at least one at Bóquer valley. 91. Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra: common. Balearic Common Crossbill at Cúber Reservoir (Claudio Bracho)

15 Balearic Woodchat Shrike at Son Real (Ferran Pujol) Balearic Spotted Flycatcher at Son Real (Ferran Pujol)