Lesvos 21 st April 5 th May 2012 Howard Vaughan & party

Transcription

1 Lesvos 21 st April 5 th May 2012 Howard Vaughan & party Day one: 21 st April: We left Gatwick in early morning sunshine, little knowing that this was the last glimmer of brightness that Blighty would see for the duration of our escape... After an interesting landing at Mytilini that saw us weaving sideways to and fro across the runway, we cleared passport control and boarded our coach transfer to the Aegeon Hotel in Skala Kallonis. Aegeon Hotel (SS)

2 As last time the hour journey was speckled with good birds that included Alpine and Pallid Swifts, three Short toed Eagles, Red footed Falcon, Whinchats and Black eared Wheatears and all five hirundines. The Aegeon overlooked the Christou River on the west side of town and the recent rains had left it wet and enticing. Wood Sandpipers were instantly obvious and Little Egrets, Squacco and two Stone Curlews got us off to a good start. Crested Lark in the hotel gardens (YH) A quick Fiat Scudo van key hand over with Alison and Costa and we were off into Kalloni to pick up some provisions what with it being a Sunday the following day. Even this was not without its bonus with a first summer male Pied Flycatcher in the oak tree in the car park. Mount Olympus over Saltpans (ACV)

3 Crested Lark (HV) Yvonne and Jane were first timers here while Andrea, David and Sam had been previously so the SK Saltpans were a real treat for a first evening out. Beautiful light meant that the Greater Flamingos were even pinker and the Blackwinged Stilts looked glossy black with those crazy legs. As well as the ubiquitous Avocets (that were waiting patiently for the waters to drop) we found two Spotted Redshanks, Common and Wood Sandpipers, four Little Ringed Plovers, Greenshank, Curlew, two Ruff, 35 glorious Glossy Ibis, singles of both Storks, lots of egrets including a single Squacco, six Great Whites and a Purple Heron and various terns including eight Whiskered and a single White winged Black. Squacco (SS)

4 Whinchats were everywhere and would become a feature of the first week while a single Short toed Lark was found on the road in the company of the ever present Cresteds. Glossy Ibises (HV) We would not see another one till the end of the second week! A Red backed Shrike was seen briefly and Raven, Short toed Eagles and a male Red foot cruised the ridge inland. Our first Black headed wagtails were seen roosting at the Tsiknias Ford and almost the last field we passed before town held over 200 roosting flava wagtails of the Blue and Grey headed kind. Amazing! That evening we walked into town and were serenaded by the amazing Levant Water and Tree Frog chorus with a few interesting insects, Stone Curlews and Nightingales thrown in for good measure. Sunset (HV)

5 Day two: 22 nd April The Christou got us off to a good start today with a Black Stork being followed around by Little Egrets before we ambled into the village to check out the Kalloni Pool. Our hotel Jays were good value and we even found the nest. Christou River (HV) Black capped Jay (HV) The first Eastern Olivaceous Warbler was heard as we walked down and 20 Red rumped Swallows flicked past us and even perched on the wires. Spanish Sparrows were at their noisy colonies and two Great Reed Warblers gurked from

6 the tall reeds at the back. Our quarry here was Little Crake and a sandy female was soon spied feeding right out in the open with two huge Moorhens while four Squacco sat hunched and despairing of the world! Red rumped Swallow (HV) Kalloni Pool looking good (HV) Breakfast spent watching the Stork again with our Nightingale still belting out and Crested Larks wondering around our feet and then off to the lake at Metochi.

7 Black Stork (SS) We made several stops on the way in and with Andrea driving on in front, it gave us the opportunity to scrutinise the Olive groves. Two male Golden Orioles, Nightingales and Great Reeds were giving it large from a stand of tall reeds and trees and I somehow managed a good enough Oriole song to get one of the males to not only answer but to come in and show himself. Balkan Green Lizards scurried away from the path edges and Corn Buntings and Crested Larks were everywhere along with more smart Whinchats than you can imagine. By the time we had got to the lake we had also seen a Wood Warbler, Whitethroat, both Spotted and Pied Flycatcher and our first Masked Shrikes, although true to form they were not really playing ball. Metochi Road (ACV) The lake itself hosted the usual Little Grebes and countless terrapins (mostly Stripe necked with a few larger Pond) and Great Reed, Sedge, Reed and Oli all sang from the edges. The four Little Bitterns seen were on the want list and another female Little Crake showed well but there was no sign of the Penduline Tit seen earlier.

8 Over 30 Whinchats were counted (HV) Spanish Sparrow (HV)

9 Striped necked and one European Pond Terrapin (HV) Striped necked Terrapin (HV)

10 The track around the back offered a little shade and scanning the rocky escarpment resulted in the finding of several key species including our first Rock Nuthatches, Cirl Buntings, Black eared Wheatears and Long legged Buzzard while we got real lucky and had a Middle Spotted Woodpecker fly across and land in the tree right next to us! Western Rock Nuthatch (SS) Long legged Buzzard (SS) Both Common and Scarce Swallowtail were seen here while up above Short toed Eagle, Peregrine and Marsh Harrier were noted.

11 Short toed Eagle (SS) Orange Furry Chafer (CS)

12 Violet Carpenter Bee (SS) Box Bug (ACV) Back to the Aegeon for lunch and then off up Potamia Valley which abuts the Metochi area. Another very successful series of little walks with at least four singing Hoopoes and two brief sightings, four very showy male eastern Orphean Warblers, seven Woodchats, Lesser Whitethroat, Cirl Bunts and many Chaffinches. Long legs and Shorttoes hovered overhead and higher up Alpine and Common Swifts and several Crag Martins were seen. Two more Black Storks thermalled upwards and bizarrely a Lapwing was heard calling but could not be found although it was definitely on the move.

13 Woodchat (SS) Woodchat (HV) Plenty of butterflies up here with Small Coppers, Blues, Painted Ladies and Dappled Whites as well as tiny Bee flies and impressive red and black Jumping Spiders.

14 Green underside Blue (SS) Spotted Fritillary (SS)

15 Spotted Fritillary (HV) We drove back via Metochi again and picked up a male Northern Wheatear en route. Birdwise it was similar to the morning but with the important addition of the cracking male Penduline Tit (complete with ring) that spent 20 minutes demolishing reedmace in a time honoured fashion. Final stop of the day was back to Kalloni Pool where there were now four female Little Crakes, a brief scuttling Baillon s and an adult Night Heron roosting in a Tamarisk. The Great reed Warblers were still singing and the Squaccos were more active.

16 Day three: 23 rd April: Two hours well spent before breakfast down at the Tsiknias River Ford. Wagtails everywhere with Blue, Grey and Black headed all in attendance along with a cracking first summer male Citrine. This was species that we had failed to see in Our first Red throated Pipit flew over calling and Eastern Ollies, Great Reed Warblers and some very showing Cetti s Warblers were also seen along with two Spotted Flycatchers and over 30 Whinchat. Nineteen Glossy Ibis soon departed for the pools and Wood Sands were every few yards. Glossy Ibises (SS) 1 st summer male Citrine Wagtail (SS)

17 Perfect reflections the Tsikinas River (SS) Breakfast and the onto the traditional Scops Owl site just north of Kalloni. We soon found the right tree and its very grumpy looking resident. It is in there somewhere (HV)

18 Scops Owl (HV) Always a treat. Onwards and northwards, stopping for a short while at the Kalloni Raptor Watchpoint. No specialty buntings as yet but two nice Cirls, three male Black eared Wheatears, two male Cuckoos, Eastern Subalpine in song, a family of Stonechats, our first Woodpigeon and several large Star Agama lizards. Kalvachi, just north of Petra was our next stop and within five seconds Ruppell s Warbler had been marvellously dispatched! Over the next half hour fabulous views were had of at least two males with six singing in the immediate vicinity.

19 Ruppell s Warbler (HV) Ruppell s Warbler (HV)

20 Eastern Orphean Warbler on the same branch (HV) Eastern Orphean and Subalps showed equally well and Blue Rock Thrush, Crag Martin, Jackdaw and our first Med Shags were seen. Stunning views out across the aquamarine sea below. Lunch at Parasma Reservoir up above Molivos. A male Pochard was a good find but the res otherwise only held three Coot, two Little Grebe, two Ruddy Shelduck and the usual Yellow legged Gulls. Buzzard and Long legged Buzzard drifted overhead and ten Alpine Swifts came down to drink. Turtle Doves and Hoopoes sand but remained out of site and the usual warblers and some showy Cirl Buntings and two Woodchats were seen. Red Veined Darters hunted the roadside. Parasma Reservoir (ACV)

21 Meadow in bloom (HV) Red veined Darter (SS)

22 Pooing Red winged Grasshopper (ACV) Back south to Achladeri Forest to see if we could be lucky with the Kruper s Nuthatches as others had been spending up to eight hours searching! Mmmm... Four minutes of looking and I found the first one and excellent views were had as the adults collected caterpillars from the pines before heading off back to the main wood. Even Jane with her thumping headache managed to get out of the van for a look! Two Short toed Treecreepers, three silent Tree Pipits, a brief Hoopoe and a calling Scops Owl were heard while a Short toed Eagle swallowed a large thin snake on the wing like a piece of spaghetti! Down to the SK saltpans where we found three drake Garganey were found dosing. A Greenshank was new for the list and despite the best efforts of a couple of idiot birders in their car we managed excellent views of the male Baillon s Crake as it fed along one of the saltpan channels.

23 White Stork (HV) Great White Egret (SS) Back to where we started the day with a slow drive down the Tsiknias River with the light behind us. Nine Glossy Ibises fed just below us and whilst trying to shoot some video we found a male Collared Flycatcher that flicked in and out of the pink tamarisks. Four Little Bitterns were seen along the margins and a Black Stork glided past. Back down by the ford there were still lots of wagtails and amazingly we found two female Citrines paddling in the shallows as well as an adult male with more yellow on it that the one seen first thing.

24 May Fly drying out after shedding 100 s covered the van to make the change! (HV) Collared Flycatcher (HV) Female Citrine Wagtail (HV)

25 Glossy Ibis (HV) Glossy Ibis (HV)

26 Day 4: 24 th April: First thing back at the Kalloni Pool. Definitely crake central with three female Littles still trotting around and amazingly we saw two separate Baillon s take flight and flutter over the sedges. One even started singing for a short while. Eight Squaccos were dotted about and the nightingales in the hotel grounds were in full flow. After breakfast we headed east to Dipi Larisos to look for the Pygmy Cormorants that had been left over from the winter. We were in fact very lucky and saw one immediately as we poked our heads over the bridge. It took one look at us and flew low up river and out of view. Only two of us had seen it and a nervous 20 minutes later it thankfully reappeared, again saw us and again flew but this time it headed around in a big loop before heading overhead and out across the bay before looping back to the marsh by the main road about a mile away. Not a lifer I was expecting on this trip! A Water Rail called from the extensive reed beds and Eastern Ollies, Nightingales and Cetti s Warbler sang. A male Black headed Wagtail showed very well on the path and two Little Stints fed with two Little Ringed plovers and four Wood Sandpipers on one of the small pools. Dipi Larisos (HV & YH)

27 Giant Fennell everywhere (HV) Do not laugh but... Pygmy Cormorant! (HV) With Mt. Olympus looming we started to wend our way up to Agiosos. A brief stop en route to look at the view added a Middle Spotted Woodpecker and singing Cirl Buntings while Naked Man Orchid and Anemones bloomed. A Balkan Green lizard scurried out of view.

28 Naked Man Orchid (YH) Not sure of this one! (ACV)

29 Wysteria is Agiosos (SS) Agiosos (YH) I did not venture up through the nightmarish streets of the town but parked at the bottom by the library and we all walked up the forest track from there after a small cup of coffee that you could absolutely stand your spoon up in! It was quite overcast and plenty was in song although it took until we were almost back at the van before I heard an Eastern Bonelli s Warbler in song. It was more English than Greek up there with Wrens, Robins, Blackbirds, Song Thrush, Garden Warbler, Blackcap as well as my first island normal Nuthatch, Short toed Treecreepers and a brief snatch of song from the weird sounding local Chiffchaff but like last time it was too far up in the wood to see. Florally it was amazing with four colours of anemones, Provencal Spotted Orchid, the fantastic Fritillaria pontica, Celendines,

30 Spurges, Asters and Forget me nots. Back at the van Alpine Swifts were zooming around with the Common Swifts and various hirundines. Large Tortoiseshell (SS) Fritillaria pontica (HV)

31 Aster sp (HV) Anemone (HV)

32 Anemone (HV). Descending at Agiosos (SS)

33 Provencal Orchid (HV) Now for lunch and as we headed further along the valley westwards we came to Demitrious where the Middle Spotted Woodpeckers previously nested in the tall poplars. No sign of the peckers but Grey Wagtail was found singing, Crag Martins and Red rumped Swallows darted around us, Serins jingled and a male Blue Rock Thrush showed well on top of the chapel. Up above we picked up Short toed Eagles, Common Buzzards and a male Goshawk. Cistus (YH)

34 South now back out of the mountains to the saltpans at Polichinitos. Hoped for more waders but still found 12 Kentish Plovers and eight Black winged Stilts amongst the Avocets while a patch of saltmarsh was alive with flava wagtails with over 200 having a wash and brush up before the next leg of their journey. Polichinitos Saltpans (ACV) Tawny Pipit (SS) A male Peregrine performed a spectacular stoop after one but failed while a smart Tawny Pipit scurried away from us up the path. Two male Fan tailed Warblers sang and at least ten Whinchats were seen on farmland fences.

35 Blue and Grey Headed Wagtails (HV) Blue headed type Wagtail (HV) We followed the path until it became road again and I followed the map to the letter up until the point that we found ourselves in the middle of a village. Fortunately followed my nose and after asking if a chap if we were heading for the main road we popped out on the main road east of Achladeri. We stopped at the Cyprus avenue at Agh. Veroniki to marvel at the scarlet poppy fields to the sound singing Serins.

36 Poppy Fields (HV) With dinner time approaching we headed back via the Tsiknias River along the west side as the other day. It was a good call and we enjoyed excellent views of two Marsh Sandpipers feeding with 42 Wood Sands, six Little Ringed Plover and five Ruff. A Long legged Buzzard posed on top of a telegraph pole and the first Black headed Bunting of the trip half heartedly sang as he dozed in the evening sun after his long journey. Big smiles all round for that one!

37 Black headed Bunting (SS) Marsh Sandpipers and Ruff (SS)

38 Day 5: 25 th April: No morning excursion but a lay in till seven! Out west today with Agh Ioannis being our first stop along the coast road to Eresos. A super productive first ten minutes with two male Cinereous and three male Cretzschmar s Buntings easily despatched in short order! Great views of one of the former especially as it sang from a rock below us. A Black Kite overhead was a bonus and Spot Fly and a brief Rock Sparrow were also seen here along with Black eared Wheatears and a couple of Agamas. Cinerous Bunting (SS)

39 Saga hellenica (HV) Our eventual destination was Sigri but with superb habitat all round us it seemed a shame to just drive on by so we made several very worthwhile stops en route. Looking south from Agra (SS)

40 Oh joy! Another cement lorry in Agra! (ACV) Between the twin towers of Agra and Eresos we stopped three times. The first, just past the towers gave spectacular views and a good selection of birds: three male Cin Bunts, four male Cretz Bunts, four Easter Rock Nuthatches, three pair of Blue Rock Thrush, two male Cirl Bunts, and countless Black eared Wheatears. In the oaks below both Wood and Eastern Bonelli s Warblers sang while Peregrine and two Red throated Pipits were seen overhead. The Twin Towers of Agra (ACV) Another pull over a short way up the road offered us excellent views of a pair of Little Owls along with more buntings, wheatears, our first two Linnets, a Tawny Pipit and a pair of Short toed Eagles.

41 Little Owl (SS) Third but by no means list we passed over a wonderful bridge over a Plane Tree filled river. Red rumped Swallows were careening around and within a few minutes of being out of the van we had seen a pair of Collared, two female Pieds and three Spotted Flies. All were hunting around some fig trees before dashing back to the Planes. Jane found a Rock Nuthatch nest and not for the first time a female Black eared Wheatear managed to look like a Red breasted Flycatcher... Eresos at last and after another minor moment of geographical misplacement we continued north to Sigri! No more stopping I said, otherwise we shall not get there! Ok... I lied. Suddenly there on a tall pinnacle of rock alongside the van was a Chukar Partridge! A pure stroke of luck as many people go away without seeing this elusive species. Hoodie and Raven (HV)

42 A couple of shots and down it hopped but Jane had not seen it so out we piled. Another great move as not only did we see the partridge again but a host of other stuff that included four smart Rock Sparrows visiting an old Rock Nuthatch nest, the usual lovely Buntings and wheatears, male Blue Rock Thrush, singing Woodlark, five smart proper Rock Doves, kronking Ravens, Long legged Buzzard and our first Lesser Kestrels high overhead! Chukar (HV)

43 Rock Nuthatch nest and the new occupant a Rock Sparrow (HV) At the Sigri junction we stopped at the traditional Isabelline Wheatear lay by and were not disappointed with the three pairs that we found there. Very showy and lots of that snap, crackle and pop voice that they deliver in a manic song flight. Short toed eagle and Long legged Buzzard were also seen while Stonechats and Hoopoe were seen below. Isabelline Wheatear (SS)

44 The wind was now howling and we opted to drive right past Ipsilou Monastery and head down the other side to Sigri and Faneromani. Sigri Harbour (SS) Lunch and a frappe and then back to birds. It was quite hard going in the strong wind but we persevered and saw Masked Shrike, seven Woodchats, female Golden Oriole, three Orpheans, Turtle Dove, Pied Fly as well as at least ten Lesser Kestrels, Peregrine and 12 Alpine Swift high up above, a Purple heron dropping into the seaside reed bed and good numbers of both Scopoli s and Yelkouan Shearwaters banking offshore. Red rumped Swallows on the wires (YH)

45 Scarce Swallowtail (HV) At this point I chickened out on taking the Sigri track homewards and we basically retraced our steps. This was not without incident as a short diversion to look at the petrified forest near Ipsilou added a couple more Isabelline Wheatears and three marvellously close Lesser Kestrels that got blown over our heads. Petrified Forest (SS)

46 Petrified Forest (YH) As we neared the summit of Ipsilou a male Collared Flycatcher landed in the road and just after that I swerved around what I believed to be a tortoise in the road. I ran back to move it only to find a Strip necked Terrapin sitting there looking rather unphased about being at the top of the highest driest peak out west. I did wonder if it was just enjoying the view but decided to be kind and give it a lift to some life giving water. Now, knowing that terrapins a) carry salmonella and b) stink like the worst stagnant pond sludge you can imagine, I elected to pick the beast up in a carrier bag and suspend it in the back of the van for everyone to enjoy. Being the driver meant that I was the furthest away but even I got a whiff every now and then. It took a while but Rustle, as he became known for his incessant scrabbling, was eventually released at some great effort by me into the lovely clear river with the Plane Trees and associated other terrapins!

47 Day 6: 26 th April Christou at Dawn (HV) After breakfast we headed out of town, through Dafia and parked opposite the road to the Leimonos Monastery and enjoyed a wonderful walk back down the valley side to the wooded valley below. Wood and Orphean Warblers, Blackcaps, Serins, Blackbirds and Wrens sang below while Cretz and Cirl Bunts, Easter Subalps, Rock Nuthatches, BE Wheatears occupied the drier scrub areas. Insects won the day though with a stunning flower Mantis found by Jane and plenty of butterfly interest. Back at the van Andrea had been watching Red rumped Swallows on the wires and Short toed Eagles cruised the ridges. The Monastery (YH)

48 Empusa fasciata a flower mantis (HV) Common Swallowtail (SS)

49 Scarce Swallowtail (SS) Brown Argus (YH)

50 Chafer #3 (HV) Male Cretzschmar s Bunting (HV)

51 Red rumped Swallow (HV) We continued up to the top of the mountain road and stopped by the radio mast before the road descended to Filia. A new spot for us and well worth the walk. Filia (SS) Again insect rich with Spotted Frits, False Apollo, Eastern Festoon, both Swallowtails, Easter Dappled Whites and Green Underside Blues amongst the butterflies while another flower mantis was found and several species of chafer

52 were nectaring on the many flowers. It was good for birds too with at least six territories of Eastern Bonelli s Warbler that allowed excellent views as they called, sang and nest built. Eastern Bonelli s Warbler (SS) Eastern Bonelli s Warbler (HV)

53 Empusa fasciata a flower mantis (SS) Female Eastern Festoon (SS)

54 . Nettle Tree (SS) A Wood Nuthatch was seen at last and Middle Spot and Golden Oriole were both heard. A pair of Masked Shrikes were as unobtrusive as ever. Up above we picked up two Honey Buzzard, eight Common Buzzard, two Black Stork, peregrine, six Short toed Eagles, male Goshawk, Kestrel and a Lesser Spotted Eagle that actually came out of the woods with a couple of Hooded crows on its tail. It showed long enough for me to get some of the others onto it before we lost it behind the trees. A real bonus and tick for me as well. Pair of Masked Shrikes (HV)

55 Meadow (HV) Beetle sp (HV) After another al fresco lunch in the sun we actually decided to head back to the hotel for the afternoon as it was just getting a little too hot to be out for long. A frappe and siesta and then off we went again for a great evening down on the saltpans.

56 It turned out be one of those not sure where to look sessions that started with a mixed flock of Terns and just got better... I do not like lists but the following speaks for itself: Gull billed Tern: 160 inc 117 in one late evening flock arriving from the south; Whiskered Tern: 37; White winged Black Tern: eight; Collared Pratincole: 31; Ruff: 145; Little Stint: 45; Greenshank: seven; Spotted Redshank: three; Wood Sandpiper: 46; Stone Curlew; Kentish Plover: three; Curlew Sandpiper: four; White Stork: three; Glossy Ibis: six; Great White Egret: three; Ruddy Shelduck: nine; Redfooted Falcon: female; Peregrine: male; Red throated Pipit: three showing well on the deck; Fan tailed Warbler; Little Owl and Lesser Grey Shrike... Gull billed, White winged Black and Whiskered Terns (SS) Gull billed Tern (SS)

57 Collared Pratincole (SS) White Stork (SS)

58 White Stork (HV) The Terns and Pratincoles came over our heads in one calling flock as they hawked for insects and was probably the biggest wow moment of the whole trip.

59 Day 7: 27 th April: It dawned hot and clear again and our first stop was Papiana for a second try for the owls. Easy this time with great views of one of the angry Scops and the arse end view of the roosting Long eared in the tree across the road! Oh and a young stallion that tried to east your hair! Long eared Owl (SS) As we headed out of town I picked up a Red foot as we reached the saltpans and a quick pull in revealed at least 21 of these agile falcons hawking overhead along with a single male Lesser Kestrel and a Black Stork. Great stuff and the biggest group I had ever seen. Five Gull billed Terns fed in the channel and the Black winged Stilts were settling into their usual island now that the waters were dropping. Yvonne and Sam stalking Stilts (ACV)

60 Black winged Stilt (HV) Red footed Falcon (HV) Up through Napi to the radio mast to the north. A good walk produced two smart Masked Shrikes, several Cretz Bunts and Eastern Orpheans, flyover Bee eater, Black Storks, Buzzards and Short toed Eagles and most amazingly 30 Golden Orioles that headed north in one glittering black, green and gold flock before landing in a couple of huge pines and for the most part, melting from view. Back at the van a call tempted me to cross the road and my hunch about Sombre Tits was proved right with a pair showing very well in the olives. Another target bagged! Jane was a very happy bunny indeed!

61 Napi Valley looking towards Turkey (SS) Eastern Festoon (SS)

62 Black eared Wheatear (HV) North again towards Skala Sykaminias. The windy road down added a fly across male Sardinian Warbler to the list before a serene lunch with our toes almost in the sea along the coast road. Lunch at Skala Sykaminias (SS) More frappe beckoned at The Mulberry Tree cafe before scenic harbour shots and amusing ice cream images could be taken.

63 Skala Sykaminias harbour chapel (HV) One of the more interesting elements of the local population...

64 The harbour (YH) Yep! Your ice cream is still there Jane! (HV)

65 Swallow at The Mulberry Tree (HV) With huge thunderheads brewing over adjacent Turkey we gambled on making it westwards along the dirt coast road before anything substantial fell. As with our visit two years ago it was excellent with short stops producing great views of Woodchat, Masked and our first decent male Red backed Shrike, two pruuking Bee= eaters, the usual warblers including another Eastern Bonelli s and three Turtle Doves in the middle of the road. Not long before Efthalou hot springs we found two adult and a second year Audouin s Gull patrolling with the Yellow legs offshore while Bottle nosed Dolphins hunted further out while our next stop to check a patch of gulls led us onto at least 600 Yelkouan and six Scopoli s Shearwaters plunge diving after the small fish that were heaving near the surface. Audouin s Gull (HV)

66 Black eared Wheatear (HV) Turtle Doves (HV) Too hot now and as we had escaped any rain bar 27 spots on the windscreen we decided to head back to base for a break again before hitting the saltpans once again! Loads more terns this evening with 64 White wings and 46 Whiskered. Ruff topped 200 with an impressive 42 Curlew Sandpipers, our first Dunlin, 126 Little Stints, 48 Blackwinged Stilts and four each of both Storks. The Red throated Pipits now numbered five and showed very well in a small dry gully and two Fan tailed Warblers were sitting away merrily.

67 Red throated Pipit (SS) We bumped back over the Tsiknias Ford seeing 31 Wood Sandpipers and our first Temminck s Stint in the process while the Oystercatcher was still at the mouth of the river. Blue headed Wagtail (SS)

68 Wood Sandpiper (ACV) White winged Black Terns (HV)

69 Day 8: 28 th April: An early visit to Metochi Lake for a pre breakfast circuit. Most productive with brief views for me of both Baillon s and Spotted Crake and a showy Little Crake for a short while. A male Little Bittern showed in the reed edge before flying to the vegetation at our feet and Masked and Woodchat Shrikes showed well long with the usual Corn Bunts, Crested Larks and reed dwelling warblers. Black eared Wheatears, Rock Nuthatches and Cirl Bunting showed well and Andrea found some cool Black and Yellow Millipedes. Masked Shrike (SS) Corn Bunting (SS)

70 Woodchat (HV) Black and Yellow Millipede (HV)

71 Speckled Bush cricket on poppy (HV) With the second half of our party due to arrive late afternoon we settled in for a lazy spell around the hotel but could not resist a little walk back into town to have a look at the Kalloni Pool. Quiet in the heat but still managed to find our first male Little Crake, five Squaccos, a Grass Snake and best of all, a lime green Tree frog stuck to a reed stem! Tree Frog (SS)

72 Hooded crow in the hotel grounds (SS) The six newcomers arrived safe and sound and after giving them a couple of hours to get sorted we headed out to the Saltpans to give them a taste of the week ahead. It was a good start with good light and good birds including 30 each of Whickered and White winged Black Terns, 28 Gull billed terns, three huge Black Storks, two White Storks, a few usual waders and really god views of five Red throated Pipits. Crested Lark (BJ)

73 With Annie and Chris now on board there were extra eyes looking down as well as up and they quickly found several interesting caterpillars including our first Swallowtail feeding on Giant Fennel. If you touched it stuck out two pink prongs at you a bit like Up yours! Bugger off but more of that later...we literally drove through the Tsiknias Ford but still added two male Black headed Bunting, Black headed Wagtail and the Temminck s Stint to their lists. Dinner had already been booked and we made it just in time. A nice evening with all 12 of us rounded off by the Barn Owl having a fly round and a quick screech!

74 Day 9: 29 th April: Down to the saltpans early was a good move with everything showing amazingly well in the fantastic early morning light. Three Black Stork practically walked up to us on the channel while 12 each of Ibis and Squacco were on the pool with a male Garganey, White Stork, three White winged Black Terns and the usual assortment of Ruff, Wood Sands and Ruddy Shelduck. Dawn over the Tsiknias River (SS) Red throated Pipit (BJ)

75 Black Stork (BJ) Sunrise (HV)

76 Black Stork (SS) No less than nine Red throated Pipits were seen along with our first Turnstones. The showy male Baillon s gave cracking views as it fed along the back edge of the channel. Baillon s Crake (SS)

77 The bumpy ride back added three singing male Black headed Buntings, Black headed Wagtail, a brief Little Bittern and a superb Lesser Grey Shrike by the side of the van which resulted in some interesting in van photograph taking positions... Black headed Wagtail (BJ) Drake garganey (BJ)

78 Lesser Grey Shrike (BJ) Shrike watching! (HV)

79 Dawn Stilt (HV) Ruddy Shelduck (BJ)

80 Little Bittern (BJ) It was to be a long day so everyone was prepared nice and early for a quick get away as we headed north west towards Sigri. The intention was not to stop that much and we largely succeeded passing Short toed Eagles, Blue Rock Thrushes, Red rumped Swallows and in Barry and Yvonne s case a roadside Chukar en route to our first real stop in the Lardia Gorge. It was as last time a magical stop with bird song all around and spectacular views up to the peaks above and river below. Three male Blue Rock Thrushes sang and flitted across the road at height while Golden O s responded to my seemingly realistic impression once again. Hoopoes pooped, Eastern Bonelli s Warblers trilled and Subapls chattered while a couple each of male Cretzschmar s and Cirls song from the rocky outcrops. Redrumped Swallows and Crag Martins chittered around our heads and a smart white throated Black eared Wheatear displayed above us. And all of this whilst surrounded by many butterflies and a variety of chafers and other inverts. An Eleonora s Falcon went through before I could get others onto it and ten Alpine Swifts were as high as it was possible to see them. Bishops Mitre (AJ)

81 Mega Chafer (AJ) Mega Chafer (AJ) The Sigri junction next for the Isabelline Wheatears once again. They showed a little closer this time and were once again engaging in Star Warsesque epic space battle song and dance routines. A Golden Oriole sand below and a longlegged Buzzard cruised over.

82 Isabelline Wheatear (BJ) Or as Quiet Dave called them Blind Wheatear... Mega weevil (AJ)

83 Ipsilou (YH) Ipsilou (HV) With calm weather and blue skies we moved on to the looming Ipsilou Monastery and practically had the place to ourselves. All the specialities were soon seen including a pair of Masked Shrikes, five male Cinerous and four male Cretz Bunts, three singing Wood Warblers, five Spot Flys, three Pied Flys, Rock Nuthatches and Rock Sparrows and Black eared Wheatears including a strange dark sandy backed male that caused some confusion. Perhaps it was a 1 st summer bird?

84 Cretzschmar s Bunting (BJ) Cinerous Bunting (BJ)

85 Mega Chafer #2 (AJ) Black eared Wheatear (BJ)

86 Interesting BEW (HV) Up above we got ok views of two Eleonora s Falcons hunting insects and Ravens tumbled just below us. A Fox was also pointed out by the Ravens and was then scolded by a Persian Squirrel as well! Raven (BJ) Wall Brown butterflies were seen near the top and several entertaining male Philaeus chrysops jumping spiders did just that! Interestingly this is the species that we saw in Corsica last May but we only saw one brief male and saw several hairy females. Here on Lesvos we only saw males and they were very common.

87 Wall Brown (HV) Watching Cinerous Bunting on Ipsilou (AJ) Back at the van Andrea had found two pairs of breeding Northern Wheatear but although they resembled our species and are meant to be of the same race they are clearly different being taller, more upright, and much paler all over with only a hint of throat or breast colour and a thinner eyestripe. Perhaps some work is needed on these as well as the strange mountain Chiffchaffs? Down the other side of Ipsilou to Sigri and after some lunch and a coffee (or in my case a doze in the van with my arm out the window in the sun...) we headed towards Faneromani. A great little visit with our group finding another

88 male Collared Flycatcher along with a female and seven Spotteds in the figs along with a very nice male Red backed Shrike, two Woodchats and a male Golden Oriole. Male Collared Flycatcher (BJ). Male Collared Flycatcher (SS) A male Red footed Falcon perched up on the ridge with its pearly silver wings while 21 Lesser Kestrels hovered and hawked over the same area. Barry saw the Purple Heron down by the beach and a field full of flavas and I added a brief Citrine there as we passed by.

89 After kindly feeding all of Steve Dudley s bus with cake in return for information (as well as my own) I decided that we should do the Sigri track on the way back. Mating Foresters (CS) The dust was appalling but several stops were made. The first of these afforded excellent views at last of three feeding Lesser Kestrels. They were watched catching insects on the wing and eating them on the go. My best views ever. It is surprising just how difficult the blue grey in the male s wings is to see but surprising how obvious the central protruding tail feathers are... Male Lesser Kestrel (BJ)

90 Male Lesser Kestrel (SS) Male Lesser Kestrel (HV) The main stop was at Meladia as Heather Lee were already doing the Sanitorium. Another fantastic session and a pity that we did not get there earlier in the day and have more time to explore.

91 However it was time well spent and the fig grove was alive with birds. At one stage I had four flycatcher species in view with a brief male Collared and a very showy rattling female Red breasted amongst the four Pieds and eight Spotteds. Meladia looking up the valley to Ipsilou (HV) Red backed Shrike (SS)

92 Red breasted Flycatcher (BJ) Presumed 1 st summer male Pied Flycatcher (HV) Another female RB Fly was seen along with a pair of Sombre Tits that were carrying food while two male and a female Red backed Shrike, a male Masked and a single Lesser Grey were seen. Six male Black headed Bunting sang in the area and a female Redstart was the first of the trip.

93 Annie found three Scorpions of ever increasing size while I discovered three Tarantula burrows the size of golf balls and I backed away when one pulled a twig from the hands of Jane... Big stripy legs emerged but thankfully no more... Medium Scorpion (AJ) Large Scorpion (AJ)

94 Tarantula (YH) Robber Fly (AJ)

95 Black Harvestman (AJ) The rest of the track back was a windy dust storm but we still added several more each of Red backed, Woodchat and Masked Shrike, Cretz Bunts everywhere and a couple of Turtle Doves. The rest of the drive back was uneventful possibly because everyone was completely knackered! Female flava wagtail (ACV)

96 Masked Shrike (CS)

97 Day 10: 30 th April: A lazy start, with a look at the Christou from the hotel before and during breakfast. A few waders this morning with 27 Wood Sandpipers, three Kentish Plovers, 17 Little Stints, two Greenshanks and our first two Ringed Plovers. Twelve Little Egrets followed round two Black Storks and two Greater Flamingos and a Glossy Ibis were seen on a pool over the back. Four Bee eaters flew over and Black headed Buntings had joined the dawn chorus around the hotel. Christou view from breakfast (YH) Up to Filia Mast for the first half of the day where the same walk as the other day gave excellent views of the Bonelli s Warblers again along with Cirl Bunts, Subalps and two additions in the shape of a party of weird looking Long tailed Tits and two fly over Hawfinches. Bee eater (HV)

98 Eastern Bonelli s Warbler (BJ) Up above two each of Eleonora s and Red foot were seen with three Black Storks and the usual Short toed Eagles. Many insects again including great views of Apollo once again and our first Nettle Tree Butterfly. Eastern Subalpine Warbler (BJ)

99 Philaeus chrysops Jumping Spider standoff with a smaller species (AJ) Eastern Festoon (HV)

100 Star of the show as the Spur thighed Tortoise that Andrea first found and that we headed back for. She had misplaced it somehow but by following the track of flattened grass I found it about 100 yards away. Lots of photos ensued and we even removed a couple of ticks that had latched on through the outer shell. We could not do anything about the ones on the legs though. Made us all check all our nooks and crannies for ticks though! Spur thighed Tortoise (ACV) Spur thighed Tortoise (HV)

101 A GIANT centipede got everyone excited although I did say that it had a poisonous bite and should not be handled... fortunately no one did while a Turkish Gecko of about the same size was more appealing! Centipede (AJ) Turkish Gecko (AJ)

102 Cricket midway through a skin shed (ACV) Buprestid beetle (AJ)

103 Thistle (ACV) Thistle (ACV)

104 Dandelion head (ACV) Cave Centipede (AJ)

105 Filia mast mare (AJ) Back down the hill and a quick look at the Papiana for the Scops Owl as Quiet Dave had still not seen it. He was not to be disappointed this time. Scops Owl (HV)

106 Scops Owl (BJ)

107 Spotted Fritillary at the hotel (CS) Hot Swallow (HV)

108 Sun Lounger Dog she was well travelled and we encountered her one day coming out of the sea on the way to Parakilia and an hour later she trotted past us in the village! (HV) Swallow splash bathing in our pool (HV) Siesta, pool, lunch and then out again for a good walk along the Tsiknias south from Upper to Lower Ford. A good walk with lots to see and hear and we ended up with four Little Bitterns, four Squaccos, 31 Wood Sandpipers, our one and only Green Sandpiper, five timid Temminck s Stints, ten Little Stints, four LRPs, three singing male Great Reed Warblers, now eight Black headed Buntings, lots of Blue headed and Black headed Wagtails, four Bee eaters and as the light began to fade a pair of insect hunting Red foots and a fly through immature Night Heron.

109 Tsiknias River olive Groves (AJ) Two female marsh Harriers quartered on the east side of the river and a female ringtail was initially called as a Pallid but showed well enough to correctly identified as a Monty. Still good though! Female Red footed Falcon (SS)

110 Mullein Moth cats (AJ) Little Bittern (HV) A final look at the river mouth added Sanderling to the list along with the ever present Oystercatcher. Do not seem to have written it down but pretty sure that this is the evening I had 114 Wood Sandpipers outside the hotel on the Christou.

111 Day 11: 1 st May: Early rise to Metochi Lake. Very quiet but did add Little Crake to Chris list along with two Little Bitterns and a Woodchat. Sunrise (HV) Female Little Crake (HV)

112 Levant Water Frog (JE) Scarce Swallowtail (JE)

113 A grounded Bee fly at the hotel (AJ) I then made a bit of a boob and took us to Archladeri for the Nuthatches without twigging until too late that it was May Day and not only was everywhere closed but that EVERYONE would be out and having huge noisy BBQs in every bit of available countryside! Should have gone west to Meladia or something but nevermind. It was not a waste of time though as we passed a Purple heron the Vasilikon Pools on the way and despite the crowds we did get brief views of the Kruper s Nuthatch. Purple Heron (BJ) We then went back up to the poppy fields at Agh. Veroniki. Still stunning but with higher wheat now! Two male Redbacked Shrikes perched on wires and the Serins were still singing in the cypresses. Some of the party were lucky

114 enough to find a male Odalisque dragonfly in a small roadside channel. We aborted the day at this point and headed back for lunch. Odalisque (CS) Clouded Yellow (JE)

115 Red & Black Shieldbugs (AJ) Later on we headed out again and had a good look at Agh. Iaonnis and walked up to the chapel this time. Apart from the excellent vistas it also added some good views of both buntings again, Rock Nuthatches at the nest, a pair of Blue Rock Thrushes and the same of Sombre Tit. Agama and Snake Eyed Lizard were seen and amongst the various orthoptera were several tiny ground hoppers. Lots of butterflies again including a third generation Small Copper that completely threw us and a huge Black veined White that certainly did not! Snake Eyed Lizard (HV)

116 Processionary Moth Cats (YH) Black veined White (SS)

117 Ephippiger Bush Cricket (HV) Balkan Green Lizards were seen along the roadside on the way back (CS) A Purple Heron dropped into the Kalloni Pool as we walked for dinner later on.

118 Day 12: 2 nd May: Another half day walk with the intention of walking Plantania as far as we could without getting too scorched. It was well worth the effort and despite not finding the hoped for Olive Tree Warblers we had a great few hours with lots to show. Traffic issues Greek style (HV) Plantania (SS) This included six Woodchat, two male Masked and a single female Red backed Shrike, Little Owl, a singing woodlark, two male Orphean Warblers, four singing Hoopoes and at last a view of one banging the life out of a huge caterpillar on the path, some showy Cirl Buntings feeding young and amazingly five pair of Sombre Tit!

119 Sombre Tit (SS) Short toed Eagle, Buzzard, Goshawk and a male Red foot were seen above and a Black Kite was seen as we left the site. Common Swallowtail (JE)

120 Common Swallowtail (JE) Scarce Swallowtail (AJ)

121 Sombre Tit (BJ) Little Owl (BJ)

122 Marbled Skipper (YH) Cirl Bunting (BJ)

123 Green Wolf Spider (AJ) Woodlark (BJ) Another evening on the Saltpans with our first two Sandwich, 17 Gull billed, 21 Whiskered and seven White winged Black Terns, the usual herons, egrets and storks, 12 Rudy Shelduck, 215 Ruff, an impressive 41 Curlew Sandpipers and another new trip tick with six 1 st summer Med Gulls thermalling overhead.

124 Black Stork (HV) Little Tern (BJ)

125 Wood Sandpiper (BJ) Great White Egret (BJ)

126 Whiskered Tern (BJ). Whiskered Tern (SS)

127 Jane and an Eggar type caterpillar (AJ) Reminds me of that caterpillar in the Are You Being Served Film... Short toed Lark (SS) A female Red foot hunted in the low light and a Fan tailed Warbler zipped merrily and we even saw it sky dancing! Best of all was the Baillon s Crake that once again showed very well although the behaviour of some of the photographers was not what might be called good.

128 Crested Lark (AJ) Marigold (AJ)

129 Corn Bunting (HV) Little Bittern (AJ) There were now four Temminck s Stints at the ford along with four Sqauccos and the usual Little Bittern.

130 Day 13: 3 rd May: Saltpans pre breakfast again. Dawn rose clear and bright and we were treated to rich colours and close views from the end of the road. Totals as follows: 11 Gull billed Terns, five White winged Black, two Whiskered, 130 Ruff, a sum plum Dunlin, Spotted Redshank, nine Black winged Stilts, five Ringed Plover, seven Glossy Ibis, 21 Squaccos, five Great White Egrets, 31 Little Egrets, male Garganey, seven Bee eater and a single Red throated Pipit. White winged Black Tern (BJ) Squacco (SS)

131 Scarce Emerald Damselfly (JE) Early morning Squaccos (HV) Star though went to the male Rufous Bushchat down on the beach exactly where we saw one two years ago. A tick for everyone else so smiles all round. He showed well and sang from the low growing spiky grey scrub and the tamarisks. Sam was especially pleased.

132 Eastern Rufous Bushchat (BJ) Eastern Rufous Bushchat (SS)

133 North after breakfast as we were heading for the thermal springs at Eftalou. This did not stop us from a short break en route at Kalvachi where the Ruppell s Warblers once again performed fantastically well with four males seen. Another Rufous Bushchat briefly appeared and Orphean Warbler and Blue Rock Thrush were seen. The ubiquitous Yellow=legged Gull (BJ) Annie found more Swallowtail cats and the true use of those pink orange protrusions became apparent as they exuded a pungent smell of what can only be described as ripe dog mess which clung to the fingers and the nostrils! No bird in its right mind would try one of these more than once! The baby wipes did the rounds before we moved on towards the baths. Swallowtail cat (AJ)

134 Swallowtail cat (AJ) The hot baths at Eftalou were as excellent as the last time and those brave enough to use them came away feeling wonderfully refreshed while the others had been off chasing butterflies and such like. Byzantine Baths (HV)

135 Pinnacle at Eftalou (AJ) Painted Lady (YH) Lunch beckoned so we headed back to a crowded Molivos where we were squeezed in amongst the throng of kids having lunch after school. Cannot imagine this scene at home!

136 Lunch in Molivos Small Skipper (HV)

137 Fried anchovies and salad and then back up the hill to the van and then to Parasma Reservoir. Too hot to be honest but we did find a small deep pool with many Broad Bodied Chasers, a fully winged Empusa fasciata mantid, good views at last of a Meadow Brown to clinch that we had Maniola telmessia, a pair of Ruddy Shelduck, family of Common Kestrels, three Lesser Kestrels and ten Alpine Swifts. Parasma track (JE) Levant Water Frogs (JE)

138 Turkish Brown Maniola telmessia not a great shot but helped with id! (HV) Winged Empusa fasciata mantid (YH)

139 Sam & the Mantis (HV) Broad Bodied Chaser (JE)

140 A quick stop at the Kalloni Raptor Watchpoint gave excellent views of Agamas and a very smart Lesser Grey Shrike. Shrike watching from the bandstand (JE) That evening I headed out with the Jacksons to have a look at the Tsiknias River getting excellent views of five Temminck s Stints, four Little Bitterns and a Common Snipe that others went away ticking as Great... Oh and a fantastic frog chorus and some mad sheep that encircled one of the more inconsiderate photographers that we met during our stay. Black headed Bunting the same male as the very first one we saw! (HV)

141 Could not have happened to a nicer guy (AJ)

142 The White pelican was seen loafing about the harbour as we came back from dinner. This originally wild bird was attacked by kids some years ago but was rescued and now lives permanently in town although we never saw it in 2009! White Pelican (AJ)

143 Day 14: 4 th May: Last full day so straight down to the Saltpan Beach early on to have another look for the Bushchat which duly obliged as did the Bee eaters and Short toed larks! Eastern Rufous Bushchat (SS) A first summer Little Gull headed from the Bay to the Pools and onto our list and four Med Gulls followed its course. Thirty five White winged Terns performed a magical dance over the marsh with 12 Gull billed and two Whiskered amongst the Commons and Littles. A single Collared Pratincole went through as we were leaving and the Spot Red was still present. White winged Black Terns & Ruff (BJ)

144 Common Tern (BJ) Corn Bunting (BJ)

145 Black headed Bunting (BJ) Bee eater (BJ)

146 Little Gull (BJ) Field Cricket at the hotel (AJ) With an offer to be shown the Kruper s Nuthatches at the nest at Archladeri, this is where we headed off after breakfast. It was far further up the track that I had envisaged and we were grateful of the guiding! Once there it was easy and the next forty minutes were spent watching this delightful couple feeding their obviously ravenous young in a pine tree hole. Long tailed tits and Short toed Treecreepers were also present and a Coal Tit was heard and seen briefly. Great views from the higher part of the track and probably worth an explore higher up on a future visit.

147 Long tailed Tit (BJ) Kruper s Nuthatch (BJ)

148 Time for some bugging on the walk back down and we were not to be disappointed with lots to see including our only Samos Grayling, some tiny Termites, Empusa fasciata mini mantid, a small Scorpion, another large centipede, a large shiny Scarab and a female Odalisque that performed very well by the van. Getting hot now so back to base for lunch. Archladeri (AJ) Termites (AJ)

149 Empusa fasciata (CS) Scarab (AJ)

150 Odalisque (AJ) Odalisque (HV)

151 Libelloides longicornis a rather fluffy, gaudy, deeley boppered relative of the Antlion (HV) Archladeri (HV)

152 The view into Kalloni Bay (HV) Samos Grayling (HV) The nearby Potamia Valley was our main objective for the afternoon for a last chance of Olive Tree Warbler. We walked further this time but it was generally too hot for any small birds. Both Storks were seen gaining height along with three hovering Long legged Buzzards and a single Honey B.