Naturetrek Tour Report 4-8 October 2007

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1 Naturetrek 4-8 October 2007 Report compiled by Tony Williams Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0) F: +44 (0) E: W:

2 Normandy in Autumn Tour Leader: Tony Williams Participants: Sarah Barnes Isobel Bryan Max Bryan Andy Cheshire Sue Cheshire Ray Cruise Tanya Daish Day 1 Thursday 4th October The group took the late afternoon Brittany Ferries sailing from Poole to Cherbourg then we drove to our hotel, the Hotel des Jardins des Plantes, in Avranches. The group of seven arrived at Cherbourg ferry terminal on time (22h00) to find their Naturetrek guide waiting for them. A quick and efficient transfer to the nearby minibus followed by a couple of minutes for quick introductions and we started on the hour and a half drive to our hotel in the south-west corner of the Cotentin peninsula of Normandy. We arrived at the hotel shortly before midnight, the only incident on the way being a flypast Barn Owl in the headlights; but most people were nodding-off in the vehicle and maybe only the driver saw it. Day 2 Friday 5th October Cabane Vauban (Carolles), le Grouin du Sud (picnic), le Bec d Andaine (near Genêts) and Point de Roche-Torin (near Céaux). After a rather luxurious breakfast by French standards the group left the hotel at 08h45 for Carolle the migration hotspot to the north-east of the Mont St. Michel bay, an easy 20 minutes drive from the hotel. A small area on the headland is protected and managed by the GON (Groupe Ornithologique Normand Normandy Ornithological Group) who run a migration watch-point and ringing station each autumn. We arrived at the car park next to the Cabane Vauban reserve at about 09h15 and had hardly got out of the minibus than there was a shout of Firecrest; there, in a small oak next to us was an obliging bird, the first of several we were going to see during the holiday. As we walked towards the ringing station it was obvious that birds were moving south with Chaffinch and Siskin making up the bulk of birds passing over our heads, but many others species (Skylark, Meadow Pipit, Redwing ) accompanied them. There were also interesting resident species in the fields, we all had good telescope views of a singing Cirl Bunting and a group of three or four Fan-tailed Warblers A quick look over the bay provided sightings of distant but distinguishable Common Scoters, the whole bay seemed to be full of them. Naturetrek December 07 1

3 Back at the ringing point we were invited to watch the ringing and processing of trapped birds by Sebastian, who very eloquently described what he was doing and showed us various species in the hand (the highlights being Firecrest and Wheatear). We left with promises of returning tomorrow and returned to Avranches to buy a picnic before driving the short distance to le Grouin du Sud, a headland to the north-east of the Mont Saint- Michel. The weather was fine for picnicking, after a while we decided to try and count the number of Swallows passing south over our heads and after a quick extrapolation we calculated that between 800 and 900 birds were passing per hour. After lunch a short walk around the point produced a few new bird species including a Kingfisher, a House Martin mixed in with the Swallows and some Willow/Marsh Tits that moved on before being specifically identified. We then went northwards, stopping to look at a couple of Cattle Egrets (new arrivals in this part of France) before parking at the Bec d Andaine and walking out across the mudflats. We d hardly started out before one member of the party picked up a migrating White Stork that circled quite low above us before gliding off south; not long afterwards a second bird took the same route. The mudflats were covered in birds that were unfortunately often at quite a distance, but we had reasonable telescope views of Brent Geese, Shelduck and various waders as well as closer views of Little Egrets and several species of gull. We then drove to the small coastal road at the Pointe de Roche-Torin to the south of Avranches, just to the east of le Mont St. Michel. Here we saw a few birds including Bar-tailed Godwit and a distant Merlin. It was now time to go back to the hotel for a short rest, change and log in the hotel bar before a five minutes walk to Avraches town centre for a meal at the Bistro de Pierre restaurant (the hotel restaurant being closed). The restaurant was very French providing for such a nice evening out that we all agreed to return the next evening. Day 3 Saturday 6th October Cabane Vauban, Pointe du Roc at Granville (picnic), St. Martin de Bréhel (sewage farm) and Mont St. Michel. We d decided to leave a little earlier this morning and arrived at the Cabane Vauban site well before 9. On getting out of the minibus it was immediately obvious that many birds were passing, whilst walking the two hundred yards to the ringing site (Sebastian still there) we d seen several hundred Chaffinches flying overhead with smaller numbers of Redwing, Mistle Thrushes, Siskins, Skylarks, Starlings, Woodlarks, Goldfinches, a few Stock Doves and one Crossbill quite impressive visible migration. In the two and a half hours we were there we witnessed more than 8000 birds including two Sparrowhawks. We again saw birds being ringed, the most interesting a male Blackcap already carrying a British ring. A quick look over the bay showed that the scoters were much farther from the shore, a female Marsh Harrier provided some interest. The short walk back to the minibus wasn t without interest; we were able to compare an obliging late Whinchat with the local Stonechats and had very good views of a ringtail Hen Harrier. 2 Naturetrek December 07

4 We then drove a short way north along the coast to Granville where we stopped at a supermarket to buy food, fill up with diesel and find a pair of shoes. The picnic was eaten in glorious sunshine looking out to sea at the Pointe de Roc. With the fine weather there were few seabirds but we did have very good views of some adult Mediterranean Gulls and Gannet. Butterflies were very much in evidence and for the time of year we saw a good list of species (Painted Lady, Red Admiral, Clouded Yellow, Peacock, Wall, Speckled Wood and Common Blue). New passerines seen around the Point included a few Rock Pipits and Black Redstarts. After lunch we drove a little farter north looking for a small sewage farm near St. Martin de as we d been informed of a Red-necked Phalarope there. We found the place after a little searching but although the ponds did provide us with some new species for the trip, with good views of at least 5 Black-necked Grebe in winter plumage and a few waders including 3 Little Stints, but unfortunately no phalarope! Time was running out so we returned southwards with a quick look at the mudflats in front of the Mont St.- Michel. Here we saw a few Ruff and Redshank and a flock of more than 100 Black-tailed Godwits. We arrived back at the hotel a little after 6 with a little more time for a rest and shower and we did the log again before leaving for the short walk to our restaurant, le Bistro de Pierre. The meal was very pleasant, the evening somewhat enlivened by the Rugby results and we were told that the restaurant would be closed tomorrow, Sunday. With assistance from most members of the group and helpful staff at the le Bistro de Pierre we reserved another suitable looking restaurant for our Sunday evening meal. Day 4 Sunday 7th October Pont d Ouve visitor centre and nature reserve, Beaugillot reserve naturelle and the mudflats on the coast north of Quinéville. We left the hotel after another good breakfast (by French standards) at about 08h30 for a one-and-a-half hour drive to the Pont d Ouve visitor centre, run by the Marais de Cottentin et Bessin Parc Authorities. We arrived on time at 10h00 to be met by Guillaume; he had previously agreed to open up the reserve especially for us it s normally closed to the public for conservation work during the first two weeks of October. We were given a half hour boat ride along one of the larger drainage ditches as far as a very impressive hide overlooking a scrape. Green sandpiper flew over as we started our boat ride; other species included Kingfisher, Cattle Egret, Great (White) Egret, Teal, Sparrowhawk, Water Rail and a distant White Stork. Then on to the Réserve Naturelle du Domaine de Beauguillot. Here we walked a straight track along the south side of the national nature reserve as far the coast, stopping at the two hides that overlooked the salt marsh along the way. The hides weren t particularly user-friendly (as is often the case in France although things are improving quickly) but provided close views of a few interesting species that we hadn t seen previously on the trip, these included Greylag Geese, Wigeon and Hen Harrier. Naturetrek December 07 3

5 Back to the minibus, we then headed northwards on the road parallel with Utah Beach and it s various memorials to the Normandy landings. We visited a couple of sites on the shore in the short time we had left looking for more waders, we found a few Turnstone and Dunlin running about some extensive oyster-beds and a light phase Arctic Skua out to sea. It was then time to head back to the hotel. After a little time to freshen up in our rooms we met to do the log in the hotel bar before walking the short distance to our restaurant Le Triport in town that evening we had a very nice meal and pleasant evening together. Day 5 Monday 8th October Cabane Vauban, picnic at Pont d Ouve, seawatch at Point de Barfleur, Cherbourg for the ferry back to England. So, for the last morning we left in good time for another look at the migration watch point at Cabane Vauban. On crossing the two small fields between the car park and the ringing station it was soon obvious that fewer migrants were passing today. Sebastian was still there working hard and although there were fewer migrants it was nevertheless very interesting to witness the change in species. Whilst we were there a Willow Warbler was caught (the first for the trip) as were three Coal Tits; it was interesting to see these species in the hand and witness migrating Coal Tit. A last quick look over the bay produced a distant Arctic Skua chasing terns and quick but close glimpses of an adult male Dartford Warbler on the cliff-top heather just in front of us. At nearly 11 o clock we said a last, fond, thank you and goodbye to Sebastian and went on for a quick supermarket stop for food (and gifts) and a picnic at the Pont d Ouve. From there we had another half an hours drive to the Point de Barfleur at the very north-eastern tip of the Cotentin peninsula. We walked out past the lighthouse to the tip of the point for more than an hour-and-a-half s sea-watching. With fine weather and little wind conditions weren t in favour of witnessing a good seabird passage. We did however see quite a few species, often quite close and in good light. Gannet was by far the most numerous species, but we also saw several Mediterranean Gulls, a few Little Gulls, a juvenile Kittiwake, an Arctic Skua and some Razorbills. That was almost it.we had an uneventful drive westwards along the north coast to arrive at the ferry terminal in Cherbourg in plenty of time to catch the ferry back to Portsmouth. Thank you to all the participants for making this a very pleasant and friendly trip, to Sebastian and Guillaume for their enthusiasm and local knowledge; and thank you all for enjoying the results of the peculiar working arrangements of many a French hotel and restaurant. Receive our e-newsletter Join the Naturetrek ing list and be the first to hear about new tours, additional departures and new dates, tour reports and special offers. Visit to sign up. 4 Naturetrek December 07

6 Species Lists Birds October Common name Scientific name Little grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Black-necked grebe Podiceps nigra 5 3 Great crested grebe Podiceps cristatus 1 4 Gannet Sula bassana Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis 2 7 Little Egret Egretta garzetta Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Great Egret Ardea alba 1 11 Mute Swan Cygnus olor 2 12 Black Swan Cygnus atratus 2 13 Greylag Goose Anser anser Brent Goose Branta bernicla 100s 15 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Teal Anas crecca Shoveler Anas clypeata 3 18 Wigeon Anas penelope Pochard Aythya ferina Common Scoter Melanitta nigra 100s 10s 12 x 21 Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus Sparrowhawk Accipter nisus Merlin Falco columbarius 1 25 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus White Stork Ciconia ciconia Pheasant Phasianus colchicus Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Coot Fulica atra Water rail Rallus aquaticus 1h 1 32 Lapwing Vanellus vanellus Little Stint Calidris minuta 3 34 Dunlin Calidris alpina 2 35 Ruff Philomachus pugnax 3 36 Curlew Numenius arquata Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica 1 39 Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans 1 40 Redshank Tringa totanus 1 41 Greenshank Tringa nebularia 1 42 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 1 43 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus 2 44 Snipe Gallinago gallinago Turnstone Arenaria interpres Arctic Skua Stercorarius parasiticus 1 lp 3 47 Great black-backed Gull Larus marinus Naturetrek December 07 5

7 October Common name Scientific name Lesser black-backed Gull Larus fuscus 10 x 49 Herring Gull Larus argentatus 20 many many 50 Common Gull Larus canus 60 a few 1 a few 51 Mediterranean Gull Larus melanocephalus Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus 100s many many a few 53 Little Gull Larus minutus 2 54 Kittiwake Rissa tridactyla 1 55 Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis Razorbill Alca torda 4 57 Woodpigeon Columba palumbus a few 58 Stock Dove Columba oenas 15 a few 59 Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Barn Owl Tyto alba 61 Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus 1* 62 Tawny Owl Strix aluco 1h 63 Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Green Woodpecker Picus viridis 1h 65 Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major 2* 66 Lesser Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos minor H* 67 Skylark Alauda arvensis x a few 68 Woodlark Lullula arborea 40 a few 69 House Martin Delichon urbica 1 70 Swallow Hirundo rustica 1000s 10s a few 71 White Wagtail Motacilla alba alba 3 10s a few Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 73 Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis 10s 10s a few 74 Rock Pipit Anthus petrosus Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Dunnock Prunella modularis Robin Erithacus rubecula Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Stonechat Saxicola torquata Whinchat Saxicola rubetra 1 81 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe 4 82 Blackbird Turdus merula a few 10 1 a few 83 Redwing Turdus iliacus Song Thrush Turdus philomelos 10 a few 1 85 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus Cetti's Warbler Cettia cettia h 1 87 Dartford Warbler Sylvia undata 1 h 1 88 Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus 1 90 Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita h Fan-tailed Warbler Cisticola juncidis Firecrest Regulus ignicapillus Marsh Tit Poecile palustris 94 Willow Tit Poecile montana 95 Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus Great Tit Parus major 4 x 97 Coal Tit Periparus ater 3 98 Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus Naturetrek December 07

8 October Common name Scientific name Nuthatch Sitta europaea Starling Sturnus vulgaris 100s 10s a few a few 101 Jay Garrulus glandarius Magpie Pica pica Jackdaw Corvus monedula 25 a few a few a few 104 Carrion crow Corvus corone 10 a few a few a few 105 Rook Corvus frugilegus House Sparrow Passer domesticus Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs a few Brambling Fringilla montifringilla h h Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula h h 110 Greenfinch Carduelis chloris 20 a few 111 Siskin Carduelis spinus Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis a few 113 Linnet Carduelis cannabina Crossbill Loxia curvirostra Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus h Mammals Others Coypu Myocastor coypus 5 Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus 3 Fox Vulpes vulpes 1 Shrew sp. Sorex sp. 1dead! Weasel/Stoat 1 Mouse sp. 1 European Tree Frog Hyla arborea 3 Butterflies Red Admiral Peacock Common Blue Speckled Wood Large White Painted Lady Clouded Yellow Wall Brimstone Small White Naturetrek December 07 7

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