Modest Fashion: the Way to Multicultural Fashion

Transcription

1 ISLAMIC ECONOMY AND FASHION Modest Fashion: the Way to Multicultural Fashion Antea Brugnoni - ASSAIF Sistema Moda Italia Tuesday 28th January 2014 Milano

2 CONTENTS OF TALK ISLAMIC ECONOMY AND FINANCE: WHY BOTHERING? I.THE GLOBAL ISLAMIC ECONOMY DEFINED II.CLOTHING/ FASHION SECTOR III. ABOUT DESIGN IV. A FEW NOTIONS ON MODEST FASHION V. THE CONTAMINATION OF WESTERN FASHION VI. SOME FOOD FOR THOUGHTS VII. OPPORTUNITIES VIII. TO DO LIST

3 ISLAMIC ECONOMY AND FINANCE: WHY BOTHERING? Not a value judgment but just plain business Blue Ocean v Red Ocean Strategies Sectors in which Italy is a natural player Intermediaries, such as trade associations, lawyers, advisory services, accountants, taxation, media, etc. are playing a key role EXPO from Shangai to Dubai through Milan.. Because the world is moving on

4 I. THE GLOBAL ISLAMIC ECONOMY DEFINED DEMAND. There is a latent demand for large and growing Islamic economy core sectors that: extend across the globe with burgeoning ecosystem of businesses that are starting to serve them present large gaps and opportunities NUMBERS. In aggregate, the global expenditure of Muslim consumers on food and lifestyle sectors is being estimated to be $1,620 billion in 2012 (reach $2,470 billion by 2018) of which $224 billion for clothing. MULTICULTURAL. The consumers of the Islamic economy are primarily Muslims but also include others outside the Islamic faith who share similar values. INNER DRIVERS. Such as demography, values, demographic growth.. OUTER DRIVERS. Communication technology, ethical consumption, growth opportunities

5 II. CLOTHING/ FASHION SECTOR About Trends and Numbers Muslim clothing/fashion is driven by underlying Islamic mandate to preserve modesty, as laid forth in the Quran and the Sunna: in addition, Muslims are also encouraged to wear good quality clothing so as to celebrate the blessings bestowed upon them by God Muslim clothing has traditionally reflected the dynamism and diversity of the Islamic world, with varying styles that embrace local customs there is a wide diversity in interpretation and adoption of modesty among Muslims across the world. In addition, geographic/cultural heritage also plays a strong role in its adoption Muslim populations extending from the far West to the far East are estimated to have spent $224 billion in clothing & footwear in 2012: this compares to $2,100 billion of global expenditure (10.6%) this expenditure is expected to reach $322 billion by 2018 (11.15% of global expenditure of $2,900 billion) Dubai Design City & Dubai Fashion Council. Established by official Decree. Tasked with making Dubai a global design and fashion destination. Keywords: design, fashion, luxury, art. Expo 2020 is set to spur investment in infrastructure, design and new ideas, boosting local businesses.

6 II. CLOTHING/ FASHION SECTOR About Trends and Numbers Top countries with Muslim consumers clothing consumption (based on 2012 data) are Turkey ($25 billion), Iran ($21 billion), Indonesia ($17 billion), Egypt ($16 billion), Saudi Arabia ($15 billion) and Pakistan ($14 billion) Significant size of Muslim clothing market also exists in countries where Muslims are minorities: Muslims in Western Europe (Germany, France, UK, ) plus North America (US, Canada) collectively spent an estimated $21 billion on clothing and footwear in This would make the Western Muslim clothing market second only after Turkey In 2013 faith and fashion have combined to showcase Muslim modest clothing creativity through fashion shows taking place in Indonesia, Malaysia, Dubai, Turkey, US, UK, Germany, and Russia it s a growing trend reflecting the young Muslim demographics desire to keep their faith in a modern, presentable and creative ways

7 II. CLOTHING/ FASHION SECTOR - VALUE CHAIN About Trends and Numbers The key segments of the global clothing industry value chain that are structurally impacted by halal clothing needs are: clothing manufacturers (specifically on women wear), distribution channels (i.e. retailers including those online), and designers. From the wider industry support eco eco-system, marketing, media and financial services are also impacted Designers Clothing manufacturers Distribution channels Financial services Marketing Media/Events Eco-System Developing unique halal clothing designs Manufacturing halal clothing Developing shelf space or distinct retail brands for halal clothing Supporting Sharia compliant financing for Muslim clothing businesses/startups Marketing campaigns that consider unique Muslim values Media and events catering to halal clothing R & D, Marketing, Technology, Financial Services, Regulation, Training

8 III. ABOUT DESIGN What does wide diversity in interpretation mean?

9 III. ABOUT DESIGN Essential and traditional

10 III. ABOUT DESIGN Asiatic and traditional

11 III. ABOUT DESIGN Excessive

12 III. ABOUT DESIGN Excessive n2

13 III. ABOUT DESIGN Stylish

14 III. ABOUT DESIGN Geometric

15 III. ABOUT DESIGN Colorful

16 III. ABOUT DESIGN Aggressive

17 III. ABOUT DESIGN A market bigger than expected Style It Kosher.Com

18 IV. A Few Notions on Modest Fashion - Raehan Afrilicia, Domus Academy A market of $ 96 billion (Bloomberg) of which 10% Christians Modest fashion embraces cultures, faiths and more. A research project by the London School of Fashion states that even women not motivated by faith are now demanding "something other than spaghetti straps on a mini-dress to wear. Young women are main consumer of modest fashion. This is a generation who has grown up with consumer culture, and who expects to express every aspect of itself through participation in consumer a culture, therefore avoiding using traditional or so called ethnic clothing. This clothing is beautiful, and the beauty is made for every woman, Indonesian Fashion Designer Amy Atmanto

19 IV. A Few Notions on Modest Fashion - Raehan Afrilicia, Domus Academy A quest for integration. "Young Muslims are increasingly looking for fashion that doesn't set them apart from the rest of society., Jana Kossiabati, owner of the first blog on Islamic fashion. A quest for identity. "I wanted to design prints and clothes that Muslims could look at and instantly identify with, says designer Sarah Elenany. A freedom for women s bodies. Performance sportswear that covers your body and gives you the freedom to reach your fitness goals, states Botswana-based Friniggi sportswear maker. Same for ResportsOn: Sports headscarf. Be yourself. Unveil your performance. Covered is the new couture, Walker Tamara, examiner.com

20 IV. A Few Notions on Modest Fashion - Raehan Afrilicia, Domus Academy A Survey in Milan Shows That

21 V. THE CONTAMINATION OF WESTERN FASHION

22 V. THE CONTAMINATION OF WESTERN FASHION

23 VI. SOME FOOD FOR THOUGHTS Clothing companies and brands are quite fragmented globally. In most OIC countries, local clothing companies that are local culture-driven (national dresses) dominate the market: a special segment of Islamic/modest clothing companies are emerging globally some of the more established producers and labels understandably come from Muslim-majority countries however, new labels from other countries especially those targeting the younger generation of Muslim women are quickly gaining tractions in their local markets and beyond Some of the select niche modest/islamic clothing companies are as follows: Shukr (Jordan) has been serving the Muslim consumers, especially those in the West, through its selection of modest fashion since Shukr s main retail markets are North America and the UK, but there are substantial retail sales to over 50 countries across the world as well as numerous wholesale customers and franchisee holders Rabia Z (UAE) brand is sold in 45 countries, from the UK, GCC to Australia and Southeast Asia. It has been showcased on many catwalks around the world Tekbir (Turkey) is a leading manufacturer of fashion scarves since It has distribution centers in Europe and Africa (Egypt) as well

24 VI. SOME FOOD FOR THOUGHTS Balqees (UAE) is a high-end abaya brand from Dubai. It is famous for its diamondstudded abaya collections. Its current distribution covers Middle East, South Asia and South East Asia Armine (Turkey) aims to be the Armani for Muslim women through its complete offering of high-end head scarves and Muslim apparels. Armine apparel and accessories are sold in 1,400 stores, including in the U.S., the Netherlands, Britain and the Middle East Islamic Design House (UK) With Faith, Fun and Fashion as its tagline, it is one of the pioneering enterprises in the western hemisphere that are in the business of creating alternatives for Muslim apparels. It has distribution in UK, USA, Canada, Egypt, UAE and Jordan Hijup (Indonesia) is an Islamic fashion e-commerce service established in It serves as an online mall offering a wide range of the products from Indonesian Islamic fashion designers. It currently has 85 designers that have joined as tenants. The company has served 40,000 customers thus far

25 VII. OPPORTUNITIES Islamic finance/investments & consolidation: a large sizeable market with thousands of small retailers/ producers but without any sizeable companies should spell opportunity for Islamic finance institutions. With a focus on SME development and financing, this sector should be an important one to consider given its fragmented but large volume activity clothing production is a major industry for many of the OIC countries (Bangladesh, Turkey, Indonesia, Morocco, and Pakistan). Manufacturers who are producing clothing for global brands from the OIC already have the infrastructure to engage this market segment in a much focused way Western Muslim fashion market: this is a large segment in itself with relative homogenous clothing patterns. While brands exist and certain Western retailers are also looking at this segment, there still remains a big opportunity centers of excellence: opportunity exists to further develop this sector. Especially given no standardization requirements, such a center can also facilitate best practices in ensuring integrity of modest fashion

26 VII. OPPORTUNITIES consumer media platforms: tremendous opportunity exists in engaging this global audience with modest fashion media solutions. Solutions could still be developed and expanded to gain global reach and in multiple languages Italian imprint?

27 VIII. TO DO LIST Reciprocal capacity building. Work with designers and brands to develop an offer consequent with brand s personality and specific for the target area. Structuring of a communication strategy. Monitoring of the whole production and communication (from photo shooting to press clipping) Sharing the information with the target audience, reaching the commercial and distribution sectors Use islamic financial tools to raise capital, partner with important distribution groups, create a fund of top-quality Italian companies targeting the modest fashion sector with a full range of products, ecc

28 Grazie