Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Transcription

1 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions Glen O. Brechbill Fragrance Books Inc. New Jersey - USA 2009

2 Glen O. Brechbill 2 To my parents & brothers family whose faith in my work & abilities made this manuscript possible ARRANGING FINE PERFUME COMPOSITIONS This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Designed by Glen O. Brechbill Library of Congress Arranging FinePerfume Compositions / Glen O. Brechbill P. cm. 338 pgs. 1. s Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals. 4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title. Certificate Registry # Copyright 2009 by Glen O. Brechbill All Rights Reserved PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA First Edition

3 3 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions About The Book What can I say about a fine perfume. Of course the art of creating a fine fragrance in this industry is a very carefully guarded craft. In order to learn how to assemble a formula takes a very good memory, talent and years of hard work. In fact the three leaders in the industry including Givaudan, IFF and Symrise have their own schools where a student apprentices under a master perfumer. A fine fragrance is nothing more then an assemblage of pleasing materials that together works harmoniously in a blend. I decided to add my arrangements in order to display the art as simple as it is complex. If one works a composition as a percentage of various materials a fine fragrance formula can be deciphered. Unfortunately one will very rarely find any compositions on the world wide web. Part of this is due to the paranoia within the industry. A material understanding will allow you to decipher the complexity of just about any fragrance excluding Estee Lauder's Beautiful. Creating a formula with fifteen or more pages just over complicates the art, and of course the fragrance. I decided to add my personal classification of aroma chemicals through the book to help explain the simplicity of a creation and each fragrance family's uniqueness. Any given material can play an important role, or a subordinate one. Again, that is the nature of the creative art. Personally I believe a fine fragrance can be assembled utilizing a page and a half of various materials. What works together in a blend depends on skill and in part luck by the artist. Most fragrance houses in the states utilize test panels. Trying to get a scent created with endless critics further degrades the fine art. Asking someone a pointed question the answer can be what you want to hear, but not necessarily the truth. Fragrance launches today are to many often tied to stars and gimmicks. Chandler Burr in his recent book show casing the industry states the business needs to get back to its roots. I think he is one hundred percent correct in his assessment. The miss truths put out by the marketing, public relations and ad advertising folks ads to the declining sales and many failures. Whether any particular fragrance in my book works is unknown. However, I do know one will not find a finer collection of fragrance compositions anywhere on the internet. The craft and its art are that highly prized. If one finds a book the formulas are either old, useless or misleading further obfuscating the art. Enjoy presentation into the creative art.

4 Glen O. Brechbill 4 Index Index Pages Copyright 2 About the Book 3 Index 4-5 Fragrance Families 6-13 Fragrance Pyramid Costing Out a Fragrance 17 Floral Fragrance Chemicals Floral Floral Compositions Floral Bouquet Compositions Green Fragrance Chemicals Floral Green Compositions Fruit Fragrance Chemicals Floral Fruit Compositions Rose Fragrance Chemicals Violet Fragrance Chemicals Jasmin Fragrance Chemicals Floral Fresh Compositions Floral Sweet Compositions

5 5 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions Floral Aldehydic Compositions Chypre Floral Compositions Chypre Fresh Compositions Chypre Fruity Compositions Musk Animalic Fragrance Chemicals Chypre Floral Animalic Compositions Chypre Green Compositions Floriental Compositions Oriental Sweet Compositions Oriental Spicy Compositions Masculine Fragrance Families Herbaceous Fragrance Chemicals Lavender Fresh Compositions Lavender Spicy Compositions Fougere Fresh Compositions Fougere Floral Compositions Fougere Woody Compositions Fougere Sweet Compositions Oriental Sweet Compositions Spice Fragrance Chemicals Oriental Spicy Compositions Woody Fragrance Chemicals Chypre Woody Compositions Moss, Amber & Tobacco Fragrance Chemicals Chypre Coniferous Compositions Leather Fragrance Chemicals Chypre Leather Compositions Chypre Fresh Compositions Chypre Green Compositions Citrus Fragrance Chemicals Citrus Floral Compositions Citrus Fantasy Compositions Citrus Fresh Compositions Citrus Green Compositions Bibliography

6 Glen O. Brechbill 6 Fragrance Families CLASSIFICATION IS VARIED, and their are new sub-divisions constantly being added. Keep in mind the subgroups are part of the below families. Tastes and popularity of any particular group can vary from country to country. With the launch of more, and more fine fragrances the market is getting increasingly over saturated. Employed today one will find a lot of marketing hype. This includes of course the use of movie stars, personalities, custom bottles, and fancy packaging. Fine fragrances can be categorized in several different aroma groupings. All scents no matter how unique and distinct fall into fragrance families that include Floral, Chypre, Oriental, Lavender, Fougere and Citrus. They are further divided between women, and men. Listed below are the original families as outlined by Haarman & Reimer. Feminine Notes Floral Family: The largest family of fine fragrances is by far the florals. Floral notes can find their way into the heart of many fragrances. A floral fragrance can be classified as light, green, floral, and heavy. Scents in this family include violet, carnation, rose, gardenia, lily of the valley, tuberose and narcissus. A light fragrance is often described as springtime flowers like Lily of the Valley, Lilac and Freesia often with citrusy or fruity top notes. Green accords can also be based on Muguet, and other leafy stem like materials sometimes based on herbaceous, earthy notes like Galbanum. Narcotic floral effects can be achieved by blending different floral materials with rose notes plus adding exotic Ylang-Ylang, Methyl Benzoate, and other diverse floral materials. They are often found in southern climates than in more northerly regions, and are thus considered heavy. These include, first and foremost, Jasmin represented by Benzyl Acetate, Hedione to name a few of the fragrance ingredients that are available to a creative artist. Other exotic types include Tuberose, Orange Blossom and Narcissus. Floral notes in this family can also be balsamic such as Hyacinth. Various violet compounds are a favorite addition to many compositions. The fragrances included in this group enjoy the greatest acceptance around the world. Many formulas display distinctive accords that are reminiscent of their natural counter parts. It can be made up of a wide variety of floral bouquets, or a certain note which predominates. The floral family has six main sub divisions as Floral,

7 7 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions Green, Fruity, Fresh, Aldehydic and Sweet. Floral Floral A floral fragrance owes its nature to flower blossoms that may differ from one another. Rose materials such as Citronellol, Geraniol, and Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol predominate. Again Jasmine in combination with rose ingredients are the central part of this theme. By adding carnation, ylang-ylang, tuberose, iris and others a purely floral effect can be achieved. Today more synthetic ingredients including the use of artificial bases are utilized due to the high cost and unavailability of essential oils. For example, a fine fragrance such as Chanel # 5 created by Ernst Breaux in 1923 would smell entirely different today. Floral Green A floral green fragrance are natural in nature compounded by blending of herbs, ferns, mosses and citrus fruits. This group is characterized of typical botanical fragrance notes, like those of leaves, stalks or freshly mown grass as well as cucumber-violet-like green notes. Generally relying on parts of plants, and flowers such as Muguet, or Lily of the Valley. They can be delicate as Muguet or have a strong stem like note characteristic of Styrallyl Acetate or Cyclamen Aldehyde. Green is often used to describe lush forests, fallen leaves during the autumn, a woodland meadow, or grassland. They can be further subdivided under Fresh and Balsamic. Galbanum or Olibanum would be in the later family, or the can be a green accord such as Cassis. Floral Fruity A fragrance of a floral fruity type can be achieved by blending fruity elements of a single fruit or a combination of two or more of which one can dominate. Apple accords that include, peach, apricot, pineapple, cassis, prune, strawberry, and raspberry. Mixed with fine floral ingredients that include jasmine, violet, hyacinth and others provide a rich show case of what can be achieved within this family. Becoming more popular each day is the utilization of Papaya, and Passion Fruit. These perfumes are known to have a clean fruit quality and a soft warmth. Floral Fresh A flower that is found in nature can be fresh, yet sweet and green. This is part of the classification of fine fragrances that is open to interpretation. Some suggest that this type of fragrance can be based on hyacinth, lily of the valley and orange blossom with a fresh fruity note of Bergamot and other citrus materials. Jasmine based on Benzyl Acetate or Hedione can also be part of the theme. Floral Aldehydic Floral aldehydic compounds were discovered in the 19th century. Aldehydes have a powerful diffusive effect, and are characterized by a rich opulent top note. In small parts certain aldehydes are used as a top note effect simulating a variety of floral scents that are found in nature. Muguet or Lily of the Valley based on Hydroxycitronellal is a popular example. Utilizing aldehydes provide modern accords with a richness and

8 Glen O. Brechbill 8 depth. The first fine fragrance utilizing a large percentage of synthetic components was Chanel # 5 created by Ernest Beaux for Coco Chanel. Other sub groups can include woody and powdery notes that are a combination of Anisic Aldehyde, and Cedarwood Oil of Virginia. Floral Sweet A floral sweet fragrance is often described as a floriental. Fragrances in this family can include gardenia, jas mine, freesia, and orange flower. A fine sweet fragrance can be based on Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde, Vetiver including exotic spices and their essences. Chypre: The term Chypre was coined by Francois Coty who created the original perfume in They were based on aroma materials that had an origin from Mediterranean countries. Mr. Coty was born on the island of Cyprus thus he came up with his namesake Chypre. The concept is based on a citrus fresh accord and moss. Originally the accord was founded on Bergamot Oil although scents in the family can include clary sage, lavender, patchouli and resins. The scents feel perfect for those who enjoy the fresh outdoors. In women's fragrance there are five main subdivisions that include Floral, Fresh, Fruity, Musk and Green. Chypre Floral Keeping this concept true to form the rose is used as a dominate theme. In my book titled, A Reference Book On Fragrances I have a sub division that lists over 200 rose materials. Also used is a Gardenia accord that can be artificially recreated using a Jasmin rose theme with Styrallyl Acetate as a predominate green note. Chypre Fresh The term fresh is open to a wide variety of interpretations. Fresh can be floral directed having its origins in many different flowers, and of course with citrus top note components. With time this term has become increasingly generic in its use. Chypre Fruity This concept is characterized by a predominate fruitiness often having a peach like fragrance. It is more pronounced in this group having components that are inherent to this family. Chypre Floral Musk There are several popular animal notes that are employed in modern perfumery today. Musk was originally obtained from the musk deer native to Asia. In dilution otherwise known as a tincture it has a distinctive animal like note. Civet is a cat native to Ethiopia in Africa. The animal has a gland that produces a sweet urine musk like odor that produces a velvety nuance to many fragrance blends in trace amounts. A third is Ambergris produced by the sperm whale. Often this material gray in color is found washed up on the shores of beaches

9 9 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions around the world after being vomited by the whale. A pound of this material can bring a King's ransom. Today most of the musk like animal materials are produced synthetically. Fine representations of this group include Galaxolide 50, Ethylene Brassylate including Cashmeran, and Nepalva. Materials that include Phenyl produce a musk like honey fragrance. Chypre Green A delightful concept, and one of my favorites is the Green theme. It is always open for experimentation and interpretations. Generally a wide variety of floral components are incorporated into this arrangement with a greenness based on Galbanum, Muguet, or Lily of the Valley, with strong green like synthetic notes. Often added are herbaceous coniferous traces to round off this accord. Oriental Family: The Oriental family of fragrances is often referred to as Amber. These perfumes have a strong, musky, spicy scent that often conjure up memories of Arabia and India. They are rich, heavy and diffusive. The sweetness can be derived from vanilla, sandalwood to name a few. Combining floral ingredients they are mysterious and sensual. The first Oriental was Jicky created by Guerlain in This group contain aroma materials often are reminiscent of the Far East. There's a wide range of interpretations some flowery related whereas others have a heavy spicy theme. Oriental Sweet An oriental sweet scent can have a citrus top note and a sweet vanilla amber foundation. Vanillin, and Ethyl Vanillin both aldehydes can be used up to 10 % providing that extra sweetness. One can also utilize Balsam Peru Oil, Vanilla Tincture, Vanilla Sur Abs. C'Less MD in conjunction with Benzyl family of materials. Oriental Spicy Incorporating spicy ingredients often from Indian can include clove, nutmeg and carnation, cardamom and curry. Adding musk materials that can include floral accords such as jasmine and ylang-ylang tend to provide a delicate touch to this group. The notes can be bitter, or contain sweet elements A fragrance in this area is distinctive, and can be enjoyed by both men and women. Many perfumers add balsamic notes derived from balsam materials including resinous notes derived from Balsam Peru. MEN'S FRAGRANCES TODAY ARE OPEN TO A MYRIAD of interpretations based on Lavender, Fougere, Oriental, Chypre and Citrus. The Oriental, and Chypre group shares a common theme with women's fragrances. Lavender Family: Masculine Notes The fragrances are comprised of a union of lavender, or lavandin notes atop a mossy base with a citrusy freshness. Fougere Royale by Houbigant was the first scent in this class. The Lavender and Fougere families

10 Glen O. Brechbill 10 are similar often incorporating aroma materials that can be found in either theme. Originally it was intended for women, but soon found its way to the men's side. Having fresh lavender as the main part of the fragrance there is less room for creative interpretation. Both fresh and spicy themes predominate. Lavender Fresh This group is categorized by a predominate Lavender accord. Supporting notes can come from many areas opening up this theme to a wide range of creative interpretations. Lavender Spicy Again Lavender is the dominate theme. However added to it is a pine like spiciness with a herbaceous tone centered on the fresh flower. It is generally found its way in many masculine applications possessing a wide range of different themes. Fougere Family: The French word for Fern is Fougere. Ferns found in nature have very little odor. Generally the concept is based on herbaceous materials that include Coumarin, Oak Moss, Lavender and Geranium. They are aromatic often with a camphoraceous, minty, eucalyptus like with an earthy nuance. They are usually found on lowgrowing, unobtrusively blossoming plants. Other examples include rosemary, sage as well as peppermint and lavender. It also can be quite representative of a woodland accord. Fougere Royale first introduced by Houbigant in 1882 was the start of this family. A composition can utilize a wide range of aromatic chemicals as mentioned above including a variety of herbs, geranium and ferns. The group was originally intended for the feminine market. However, it soon found its way to the men's side of the fragrance isle. There are four sub-divisions in this group headed by Floral, Fresh, Woody and Sweet themes. Fougere Fresh This group has a predominate lavender freshness. Many of today's fragrances have utilized a dry-fresh approach that can often incorporate a variety of different accords. Fougere Floral The fougere floral theme can incorporate a variety of different components. This can include combinations of dry fresh lavender often utilizing muguet, cyclamen and spicy woody notes. Fougere Woody This is a predominate woody theme. However, to keep the fragrance a fougere woody materials have to be used that are part of this group. Sub divisions within this family can include ones with a leather, tobacco and animal materials.

11 11 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions Fougere Sweet This division has a predominate lavender interpretation usually built on the tonka bean otherwise known today as coumarin. Depending on who smells the fragrance it can be sweet, fresh and yet woody depending on the percentages of fragrance ingredients utilized. Oriental Family: The oriental family of fine fragrances is shared with the women. Scents in this family include amber, vanilla, woods, and resins. Spice materials such as cardamom, nutmeg, caraway, cassia, carnation, cinnamon find their way in a variety of interesting combinations with a masculine theme. Floral notes such as rose and jasmine including the violet are part of the accord. Bay Oil from the West Indies including Pepper, Basil and Olibanum are popular base materials. The mystery of the orient gives forth to an interesting, and at the same time delightful group of fragrances. Oriental Spicy Scents in this family can include combinations of spicy notes along with amber, vanilla, woods and resinous materials. Fine fragrances in this group can be on the heavy side, and long lasting. Oriental Sweet An oriental sweet fragrance can share many similarities with its spicy counter part. In this family of fragrances there is a sweetness that can be based on vanilla, jasmine, or synthetic aldehydes to provide strength. Of course cloves, ginger, carnation, nutmeg, including caraway, and nutmeg are characteristic of this theme. Chypre Family: A Chypre fragrance was originally created by Francois Coty, and is based on ingredients originally from the Mediterranean countries. It emphases the contrast between the citrus freshness of bergamot type top notes and a mossy patchouli base. Chypre perfumes tend to be strong, and aromatic. In the men's side of the family there are five main groups that have a woody, leathery, coniferous, fresh and green themes. There is a wide range of accords that can be achieved by combining masculine aroma notes in daring ways. It is reminiscent of those who love to explore, and enjoy the fresh outdoors. Chypre Woody This is a group that is highly reminiscent of chipped wood. One of the exceptions is that of cedar which smells like a cedar chest odor with a slightly camphoraceous off-note. Sandalwood tends to smell sultry, and warm at times described as somewhat animalic. Vetiver from Haiti has a pronounced grassy earthy wood like note that varies depending on its purity. Patchouli can smell earthy, herbaceous sweet yet possess a slightly fruity tone. Other wood like materials include rosewood and pine oils. Each theme has a distinct pattern, and can incorporate materials that are utilized in other groups.

12 Glen O. Brechbill 12 Chypre Leather Fragrance notes derived from genuine leather are dominate in this accord. Typical components can include Birch Tar Oil that is distilled from Birch Trees. Cade Oil can often be used to simulate the odor including Costus Oil. Other materials include Cedryl Acetate, 2, 6 Xylenol, Suderal LT & HT plus the Quinolines. Of course fine leather bases such as Leather LWS , and Hydrocarbon SB are often used to great effect. Great care has to be taken to tame the materials. Keep in mind some have restrictive uses in the European Union that includes Birch Tar Oil. I clearly remember on one occasion sampling this odor finding it lasted on a smelling strip well over a month. Chypre Coniferous A coniferous fine fragrance is reminiscent of crushed conifer needles, or resins that often display citrusy, herbaceous, or aromatic spice like elements. They can also possess an earthy note. This group is predominately resinous and green. Pine needle oil like Iso Bornyl Acetate, Fir Needle Canadian is preferred. Citrus top notes are often utilized to create sweet like fresh notes. Chypre Fresh A chypre fresh concept can include notes of sage, lavender, oakmoss, patchouli and resins. The scents have a woodsy outdoor feel reminiscent of the forest. Chypre Green The chypre green accord incorporates the same group of aromatic chemicals. However, in this case often Galbanum Oil and other green related floral materials are added to provide a fresh green effect. Citrus Family This is predominately a man's group of fragrances. Often citrus notes are combined in fine floral fruity accords to strengthen the top note of this group of fragrances. They are predominately light and fresh with an overwhelming citrus note such as bergamot, orange, lemon, lime, petitgrain, grapefruit, tangerine, and mandarin. Citrus fragrances are refreshing very popular in the summer. Citrus Floral A citrus floral arrangement is predominately floral based with a distinctive citrus note based on the above. Citrus Fantasy A citrus fantasy concept can also have a floral theme different base materials including the combination of many different citrus notes to produce different effects.

13 13 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions Citrus Fresh A citrus fresh fragrance is open for interpretation. What's fresh to one interesting can be green to another. A fresh fruit can be tart, sweet, juicy strong or weak. Citrus Green A citrus green fragrance has elements of all of the above. The greenness can be derived from Galbanum Oils, Olibanum that can possess a natural green note to many floral materials including powerful top note green note aromas. Ozone Family: Oceanic, ozone, watery are an example of a new group of fragrances. Often they are described as things you can't bottle naturally like ocean spray, mountain air, or freshly laundered clothes. There is a wide range of fragrant ingredient materials available as outlined below:

14 Glen O. Brechbill 14 Fine Woman s Fragrance - L Air du Flor Citrus Galbanum Gardenia Styrallyl Acetate Green Aldehydes Floral Jasmin Carnation Rose Violet TOP MIDDLE BASE Bergamot Lemon Lime Orange Spicy Cinnamon Cloves Nutmeg Fruity Apple Melon Peach Strawberry Wood Cedar Patchouly Sandalwood Vetiver Mossy Oakmoss Tremoss Amber Amber Labdanum Vanilla Bean Animal Civet Castoreum Musk Musk Traseolide Oriental Balsamic Benzoin Opoponax Tonka The Scent Pyramid

15 15 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions The florals represent the soul of every feminine perfume. They are basically middle notes. Nevertheless, as you can see, they also plan an important rolse in the devleopment of the top and the base of the fragrance. The citruses, first of the top notes, also play a fairly important rose in the development of the middle of a fragrance. Then come the green notes, the fruity notes, and lastly the aldehydes, pure aroma chemicals with no bases in nature, which are used to give diffusion and originality to a fragrance. From there, we move on to the base notes, which include the spices ( which may also play an important rose in the development of the top of the fragrance), the mosses, the woods, the oriental/balsamic, the animal and the amber notes. A triangle such as the outside one will give you a fragrance such as L Air du Temps. The narrow inside triangle with its emphasis on the top notes shows a fresh fragrance such as Diorella. The wide traingle with its emphasis on the base notes illustrates a fragrance such as Shalimar. While this is a very much a generalization, by varying the form of the traingle one can obtain an idea of the performance of a fragrance and of the corresponding raw materials which go into its development. The above should not be interpreted as an attempt to reduce a perfume to a mere traingle: the grandeur of a fragrance comes from its richness, not from its austerity. Nevertheless, the triangle approach seems the most apt for visually translating notions which we all know are particularly difficult to grasp and express. L Air du Flor / Floral Floral Top Notes Bergamot Rosewood, Neroli Fresh Flowery Peach, Spice Notes Middle Notes Clove Rose de Mai, Ylang - Ylang, Jasmin Floral Spicy Orris, Orchid, Lily Base Notes Sandalwood Musk, Vetyver, Benzoin, Cedar Mild Powdery Amber, Moss

16 Glen O. Brechbill 16 Chypre Green 83 Iso E Super 18 Musk 50 DPG.1 Alcohol C Lavander Abrialis - Aldron 3 Germacrene D Natural 40 % PC Hydroxycitronellal Substitute 11 Benzyl Alcohol FR 4 Santal Blanc 18 Argumen Aldehyde Substitute.1 Vanilla Sur Abs. C Less 57 Geraniol Extra 8 Top Galbanum Di Ethyl Phthalate 29 Terpineol - Prodasynth 8 Citronellol 14 Ionone Alpha White Coeur 1 Rose Oil - Lebanon 11 Aubepine 28 Benzyl Salicylate 15 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 19 Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme 11 Persicol SA 22 Hercolin - D 3 Cassis Fragrance 14 Tangerine / Brazil 3 Styrallyl Acetate.1 Iris Abs. 11 Ethyl Linalool 327 Di Propylene Glycol 1 Applinal.1 Phellodedrine Fruit Oil 3 Bois Iris 1 Coriander Seed 1 Perryfix.1 Viola Odorata 2 Eugenyl Acetate 6 Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol 1 Geranyle Acetate Pure 4 Petunial 1 Frescile 6 Nectaryl 7 Hydrofix L 22 Linalyl Acetate 4 Heliotropine 12 Benzoato Benzila 15 Sandela 7 Etil Vanilina Thodarome 1 Mousse De Chene 23 Benzyl Acetate FFC 1 Anisyl Alcohol 4 Ethyl Vanilline.1 Neofolione 5 Blood Orange Oil.1 Acetophenone 14 Allyl Amyl Glycolate.1 Aldehyde C - 11 Cyclic 3 Bois Ambrene Forte 16 Aldehyde C cis Hexenyl Salicylate 3 Ionone 2 Floralyn 1 Florol

17 17 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions The Formula - Converting Pounds into Kilos 100 Lbs. Divided by = Divided by = X Parts = Grams Per Item = 1000 Parts Costing Out a Fragrance - Pine - All Purpose Cleaner Parts Aroma Price Per Raw Material Material Pound Impact 291 Pine Oil Yarmor Iso Bornyl Acetate Alpha Pinene Eucalyptol Camphor Powder Galaxolide Alpha Terpineol Benzyl Salicylate Benzyl Benzoate Ionone Beta Pure Vertenex 2/ Di Ethyl Phthalate Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Cedarwood Oil of Virginia Piconia Fir Needle Canadian Coumarin Santalex T - Sandela Di Propylene Glycol Terpinyl Acetate $ Per pound

18 Glen O. Brechbill 18 Floral Fragrance Chemicals Acetate Eugenol Sweet spicy carnation. Acetate C - 8 Fruity, slightly fatty waxy floral odor. Acetate C - 9 Powerful fruity green leafy. Acetate Iso Eugenol Balsamic, warm faintly spicy. Acetophenone Pungent sweet odor, dilution - resembles hawthorne. Adoxal Sweet floral waxy rosy referred to as ozone like. Alcohol C - 8 Powerful fresh, orange rose like waxy and sweet odor. Alcohol C - 9 Powerful oily floral fresh petal like, dilution - rosy. Alcohol C - 10 Sweet slightly fatty oily waxy floral odor. Alcohol C - 11 Lenic Fresh rather fatty odor citrusy waxy rosy, petal like note. Aldehyde C - 8 Soft woody green mildly floral odor. Aldehyde C - 9 Diffusive fatty floral waxy odor. Aldehyde C - 11 Cyclic Pleasant waxy floral refreshing odor. Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic Powerful waxy rosy citrusy odor. Aldehyde C - 11 Undecyclic Fatty odor green floral. Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric Fresh sweet waxy herbaceous clean floral odor. Aldron Floral. Allyl Ionone Oily sweet slight flowery, but also fruity woody bark like green. Alpha Damascone Intense fruity reminiscent of plums and roses. Alpha Ionone Soft warm, orris violet like, sweet and extremely diffusive. Alpha Ionone 60 Mild floral violet odor. Alpha Ionone White Coeur Floral violet like. Alpha Terpineol Extra Delicately floral and sweet of lilac type. Ambrette A fragrance with a floral musk like scent. Ambrette XNM Sweet, but heavy floral musk odor. Ambrettolide Floral musky sweet odor. Ambrose Abs. A very strong green floral type fragrance. Amyl Cinnamic Alcohol Mild oily waxy floral and sweet. Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Mild herbaceous reminiscent of many types of flowers. A C A Di Methyl Acetal Peculiar animal green odor reminiscent of parts of jasmin. Amyl Salicylate Sweet herbaceous green slightly floral. Anatoly A floral material originating in Western Turkey. Andrane A very faint nondescript odor of floral type not sweet or green.

19 19 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions Anisic Aldehyde Anisyl Acetate Anisyl Alcohol Argumen Aldehyde Aurantesin Aurantiol Balinol Benzophenone Benzyl Acetate Benzyl Butyl Ether Benzyl Butyrate Benzyl Iso Amyl Ether Benzyl Iso Eugenol Benzyl Phenyl Acetate Benzyl Salicylate Beta Ionone Bois Amberene Forte Bois De Rose Oil Boisinal Bonorax Bourgenal Bromystrol Alpha Bromystrol Omega Brouts Abs. Eau D ' Oranger Intensely sweet floral yet somewhat hay like hawthorne. Mildly fruity floral slightly balsamic vanilla like in plums, lilac. Mildly floral sweet odor reminiscent of vanilla. Floral aldehydic hyacinth type. Sweet floral odor reminiscent of orange blossom. Very sweet heavy floral orange blossom to linden flowers. A green floral compound. Powdery geranium rose like. Pw thin sweet fresh fruity floral of jasmin gardenia muguet lily. Sweet fresh floral and somewhat chemical. Heavy fruity floral, plum like. Floral fruity odor somewhat greener and herby then benzyl acetate. Faint rosy balsamic carnation. Mild sweet honey floral. Very faint sweet floral. Warm woody dry floral odor with a fruity undertone. Green floral odor. Floral odor reminiscent of rose orange mignoette. A very weak and sweet fruity floral odor. An extremely green floral, not excessively sweet or cloying. A powerful muguet floral note. Pungent sweet grassy floral odor, reminiscent of hyacinth. Powerful pungent floral somewhat grassy odor Rem of hyacinth. Strong and tenacious odor, musty dry faintly floral. Camomile German Typically sweet, and herbaceous. Camomile Moroccan Similar to above and below except for a rose, honey character. Camomile Roman Characteristic odor of the flowers, fresh, sweet, herbaceous. Cananga Oil Java Sweet and floral, ylang ylang oil, jasmin. Cassie Abs. Powerful strong spicy floral odor. Cassie Bengale A spicy floral odor whose source is located in s.e. asia Cassione Intensely sweet floral, very slightly woody powdery. Cassis Base 345B A green fruity floral character. Cassis A 50339/ Fruity green sweet and very delicate, but at same time tenacious. Cassis D A strong green floral slightly sweet material. Cassis Fragrance Strong green fruity floral fragrance. Cassis Givco Very diffusive strong green fruity floral odor. Cetone Alpha Tenacious floral violet compound. Chamomile Flowers AF - 26 A herbaceous reproduction of the true flower oil Cinnamalva Powerful warm spicy oily slight floral. Cinnamyl Acetate Sweet mild balsamic slightly floral fruity odor. Cinnamyl Iso Valerate Fresh, but delicately floral rosy odor. CIS Jasmone Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral.

20 Glen O. Brechbill 20 Citronella Oil Java Fresh and sweet revealing high content of citronellol rose odor. Citronellol Oil Coeur Fresh, rosy, floral rosy. Citronellol Oil Extra Purer grade, fresher rosy. Citronellol 750 Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 73 %. Citronellol 80 Intermediate Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 83.5 %. Citronellol 850 Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 86 %. Citronellol Last Fraction Rosy, not as sweet as a typical fresh floral rose. Citronellyl Acetate Fresh, rosy, fruity odor reminiscent of geranium oil. Citronellyl N Butyrate Intensely fruity, sweet and somewhat rosy leafy, petal like. Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Fresh almost citrusy rosy, intensely fruity and sweet odor. Citronellyl Formate Pw leafy green fruity rosy fresh and light Rem of geranium rose. Citronellyl Nitrile A green rose like scent almost reminiscent of citralva. Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet herbaceous rosy, heavy and reminiscent of rose petals. Citronellyl Propionate Fresh fruity, sweet rosy odor more berry fruity odor. Cyclal C Powerful green leafy floral. Cyclamen Aldehyde Diffusive powerful floral green stem like odor. Damascenia Damascenia Rosa Abs. Damascenia Rosa Concrete Damascenia 185 SA Damascenone Delphone Delta Damascone Dianthanol Di Benzyl Either Di Hydro Floralate Di Hydro Iso Eugenol Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate Di Hydro Linalool Di Methyl Anthranilate Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl D M B C - Acetate D M B C - Propionate Di Methyl Octanol Di Methyl Octanyl Acetate D M Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol D I O L A Di Phenyl Menthane Di Phenyl Oxide Dorina S A Dupical Efetaal Rich sweet deep floral rose. Rich warm spicy floral and very deep rose odor, honey tones. Extremely rich deep & sweet floral truly reminiscent of pink rose. Floral fruity rose odor at same time very sweet. A powerful floral fruity note, very natural rose plum like. Diffusive fruity floral odor of jasmin. A hybrid floral rose compound. A spicy carnation floral rose compound. Faint sweet odor of aubepine. A light green floral lily like odor not sweet. Warm spicy sweet slight floral balsamic odor. Fruity odor of floral jasmin. Fresh floral citrusy. Heavy orange blossom mandarin peel odor. Warm herbaceous floral reminiscent lilac, eldiflowers. Fresh powerful fruity floral odor of jasmin, lily. Sweet floral fruity of freesia, sweet pea, peony, magnolia. Waxy dry rosy odor. Sweet floral fruity somewhat waxy odor. Soft floral green. Reminiscent of sweet lavender oil, herbaceous. Harsh geranium leaf, orange blossom type odor on dilution. Harsh floral green, metallic geranium rose type. Floral rose specialty base extremely fresh and floral. Floral, muguet. A floral type odor.

21 21 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions Ethyl Caproate Ethyl Laurate Ethyl Linalool Farenal Farnesol Oil Feuilles E ' Oranger Abs. Eau Fleuroxene Fleur D ' Oranger Abs. Eau Fleur D ' Oranger 175 SA Floraline Tuberose Concrete Floraline Tuberose Pommade Floral N Florapal Florex Floromat Florosa Florosia Framboise 2222 Geraniol Geraniol 60 Geraniol 90 Geraniol X Palmarosa Oil Geraniol Extra Geranium Algerian Geranium Moroccan Geranyl Acetate Geranyl Acetate Extra Geranyl Acetone Geranyl Anthranilate Geranyl Benzoate Geranyl N Butyrate Geranyl Caproate Geranyl Formate Geranyl Iso Butyrate Geranyl Phenyl Acetate Geranyl Propionate Strong fruity winey odor of apple blossom, pineapple. Fatty flower petal like odor. Floral oily slight woody green soft odor. Powerful intense aldehydic waxy like slightly floral. Mildly floral delicately sweet oily fresh green odor. Floral odor of feuilles d ' oranger. A strong green floral woody non descript odor. Dry floral herbaceous reminiscent of mandarin leaf oil. Floral herbaceous odor not sweet or fruity. Heavy floral almost nauseating sweet heavy slightly spicy odor. Heavy sweet floral honey like. A soft slightly green floral odor. Herbal fresh floral green. A deep not sweet floral rose fragrance. A floral green type odor. A light sweet green floral. A light sweet green floral. A sweet fruity floral odor. Mild, and sweet floral rose. Sweet floral rose. Mild and sweet floral rose. Sweet and floral rose like. Sweet floral rose coeur grade. Lighter more rosy leafy. Sweet and powerful, rosy leafy slightly herbaceous odor. Sweet fruity floral rosy. The finest sweet fruity floral rosy material available at low cost. Fresh floral light, but rather penetrating sweet rosy light green. Heavy sweet floral rose. Faint rosy, very tenacious mildly floral. Sweet rather heavy fruity rosy odor. Fruity geranium rose like. Fresh somewhat dry green leafy rosy odor. Sweeter then n butyrate. Soft floral honey rose like. Sweet fruity rose warm. Hedione Warm, and sweet floral jasmin. Helioforte Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate. Heliomet Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate. Heliotropex B Liquid form of heliotropin, very sweet and floral. Heliotropex N M Replacement Warm powdery floral like.

22 Glen O. Brechbill 22 Heliotropine Sweet floral warm slightly spicy, in dilution - cherry pie. Heliotropine N Liquid form of heliotropine very sweet floral slightly spicy. Heliotropyl Acetate Very sweet light floral with distinct fruity cherry top note. Hexalon Oily sweet slight flowery. Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Mild and sweet oily slightly floral. Hexyl Cyclo Pentanone # 405 Powerful and diffusive dry floral green herbaceous odor. Hexyl Salicylate Faint sweet herbaceous floral odor. Hyacinth Body Powerful leafy green with hyacinth note. Hydratropic Alcohol Coeur Sweet floral, but rather heavy odor of lilac, hyacinth. Hydrofix L Sweet floral lily with a fresh green dry out. Hydrofix R Floral lily. Hydroxycitronellal Sweet floral mild odor of muguet. Hydroxycitronellal X Citronellol Muguet sweet floral green, citrusy fresh. Hysimal Floral, lily of the valley. Indolarome Diffusive, and powerful floral in extreme dilution. Indole Powerful choking odor, in extreme dilution - floral. Interleven Aldehyde Waxy rose floral. Ionone Alpha Extra Floral violet. Ionone Alpha Regular A very diffusive orris violet. Ionone Alpha Methyl C Floral violet. Ionone Alpha Methyl Naphyl A very faint slightly sweet floral violet type odor. Ionone Alpha Refined Floral violet. Ionone Alpha White Coeur Floral violet. Iralia A very pure orris or violet note of powdery woody character. Iris Aldehyde Extremely powerful, and diffusive orisy odor. Iris Concrete Woody oily violet like odor. Iris Concrete 199 KSA Woody fatty oily but distinctly violet floral. Irival Orris. Irone Alpha Refined Soft warm orris violet like sweet and diffusive. Iso Butyl Benzoate Weak fresh orisy odor. Iso Butyl Salicylate Sweet harsh herbaceous floral. Iso Cyclo Citral Powerful and diffusive floral green. Iso Damascone A nice sweet slightly fruity green rose complex. Iso Eugenol Mild and sweet deep floral carnation like. Iso Eugenol # 6504 A sweet spicy warm floral odor of carnation very nice. Iso Eugenol Ethyl Acetal Spicy floral carnation like, softer. Iso Jasmone Isomeric floral jasmin mixture. Iso Phytol Virtually odorless pure, carries dry leaf tea like odor. Iso Plugeol Minty herbaceous reminiscent of first smell of tuberose. Jacinthe 127 SA Jacintheme 135 SA Jasmal A reconstruction of the natural oil. Reminiscent of the green floral heart of hyacinth. Powerful oily herbaceous warm jasmin odor.

23 23 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions Jasmaprunate Jasmin # 187 Jasmin Abs. Jasmin Abs. Concrete Syn. Jasmin Abs. Italian Max. Jasmin Egyptian Jasmin Petals Abs. Egypt Jasmolactone Jasmo Lactone CNC Jasmonyl Jessemal Kir Base # 9741 Koavone Fruity like apple jasmin dry slight green like wild grapes. A sweet floral fruity jasmin floral complex. Floral jasmin not overly sweet like cananga oil. A pleasant fruity sweet floral jasmin odor. The purest heart of the floral jasmin. An extremely fine floral jasmin fragrance. A sweet strong jasmin green floral petal like odor. Sweet fruity floral jasmin. Oily fruity floral petal like odor. Intensely sweet floral jasmin. Herbaceous floral jasmin. Woody floral complex with amber violet note. Woody floral complex with amber violet note. Lactone CIS Jasmone # 114 Soft floral odor of jasmin. Lactone CIS Jasmone # 411 Floral waxy jasmin absolute character. Laevo Citronellol Fresh and light rosy leafy. Lavandin Abrialis Sweet floral herbaceous lavandin. Lavandin Abs. Strong herbaceous with a camphoraceous character. Lavandin Abs. In Color Powerful camphoraceous herbaceous floral type odor. Lavandin Concrete Captures the heart of the sweet lavandin flower. Lavandin Grosso Sweet balsamic herbaceous. Lavandin Grosso C Sweet herbaceous slightly camphoraceous lavandin. Lavender Abs. Barren Green Powerful balsamic camphoraceous, herbaceous floral odor. Lavender 40/42 Sweet floral herbaceous. Lavender Oil Spiked Typically sweet, balsamic and herbaceous. Lavender Oil Spike Sub Fresh herbaceous lavender like. Liffarome Violet green. Lilial Sweet yet refreshing floral green. Lile Strallis 22 Fresh light green floral, reminiscent of lilial. Linalool Floral. Linalool Intermediate Light and refreshing floral woody odor. Linalool Oxide Powerful sweet woody floral. Linalool Terpenes Floral woody iris, quite harsh odor not pleasant. Linalyl Acetate Sweet floral fruity odor, bergamot pear. Linalyl Benzoate Balsamic floral bergamot fruity odor. Linalyl Butyrate Heavy fruity sweet bergamot like. Linalyl Formate Fresh citrusy green bergamot like. Linalyl Iso Butyrate More floral less fruity then n butyrate. Linalyl Propionate Fruity floral fresh very sweet bergamot. Lychee Green floral, very pleasant in extreme dilution. Lyral Delicately sweet, light and floral.

24 Glen O. Brechbill 24 Mallow A slightly green sweet floral fragrance. Merion A diffusive floral oriental woody complex. Methoxy Ortho Cinnamic Ald. Sweet and warm spicy floral. Methyl Acetophenone Pungent harsh warm sweet odor. Methyl Acetyl Anthranilate Floral linden blossom not nice. Methyl Anisate Sweet herbaceous delicately floral odor. Methyl Anthranilate Musty, fruity & dry floral odor reminiscent of concord grapes. Methyl Benzaldehyde Warm mildly floral sweet spicy odor of benzaldehyde. Methyl Benzoate Heavy sweet deep floral odor reminiscent of tropical flowers. Methyl Hexyl Ketone Pleasant floral bitter green, slightly musty. Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra Orris violet floral. Methyl Ionone Extra Mild floral odor of violets. Methyl Ionone Gamma A A floral violet woody isomeric mixture. Methyl Ionone Gamma X Mild floral odor of violets. Methyl Ionone Regular Mild floral odor of violets. Methyl I G Replacer Familiar woody floral complex, tobacco like undertone. Methyl Iso Residue Harsh floral violet slight woody. Methyl I G Supreme Floral violet woody fruity comlplex. Methyl Ionone Tails A harsh woody floral violet odor, reminiscent of ionone beta. Methyl Iso Eugenol Sweet and warm mild floral tea like slightly spicy. Methyl Jasmonate Powerful herbaceous floral. Methyl Lavandin Ketone Floral sweet lavandin like. Methyl Lavender Ketone Sweet floral lavender. Methyl Nonyl Ketone Fruity rosy orange like. Methyl Octine Carbonate Green violet leaf like. Methyl Para Cresol Sharp and sweet, dilution - ylang, hyacinth & wallflower. Methyl Phenyl Carbinol Earth green reminiscent of gardenia and hyacinth. Methyl Tuberate Floral most likely tuberose, rose like material not sweet. Mimosa Abs. Essence A green floral delicately mimosa like. Mimosa Abs. Morocco Powerful floral green. Mimosa Odor Essence Green floral capturing the heart of the mimosa flower. Mirabelle 2000 A fruity floral creation. Muguet Aldehyde 50 Diffusive green muguet lily type odor. Mugone 207M A faintly sweet muguet floral odor extremely viscous. Neo Jasmin # 937 Sweet floral jasmin. Neral Crude 88 % Sweet floral citral lemony floral. Nerol Sweet rosy refreshing wet seashore like. Nerol A Sweet rosy refreshing. Nerol Petals Sweet rosy leafy refreshing. Nerol Special A fresh sea shore like floral rose. Neroli Bigarrade Moroccan Sweet spicy orange blossom obtained from sour orange. Nerolidol Mild and delicately floral slight green reminiscent of apple lily.

25 25 Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions Nerolin Bromelia Crystals Soft floral. Neryl Acetate Very sweet fruity, floral odor of raspberry rose. 2,6, Nonadienal # 332 Intense powerful vegetable green, reminiscent of violet leaves. 2,6,Nona 1 al Diethyl Acetal Smooth floral violet, melon odor. Octanol 2 Octanol Nitrile 10 B Octyl Formate Oranger Crystals Oranger Liquid Orris Concrete Orris Oil Orris Resin Abs. Orris Resinoid Osmantha Osmanthus CC Abs. Osmanthus NT 5232 Oxyertaline Formate A floral rosy fresh odor. A rosy floral odor. Powerful, and relatively diffusive fruity green orris. Sweet and very tenacious orange blossom. Sweet floral rather harsh orange blossom. A floral green violet like odor. Floral violet. Floral violet. A very herbaceous slightly green floral like odor. Floral. A sweet floral jasmin odor slightly green. A sweet floral jasmin odor. A faint green slightly sweet floral door. Palmarosa Oil Sweet floral rosy odor. Para Cresyl Acetate Lily like odor. Para Cresyl Iso Butyrate Pronounced lily narcisus like odor. Para Cresyl Methyl Floral odor of wallflower, and ylang ylang. Para Cresyl Phenyl Acetate Floral odor of lily, hyacinth, jonquil. Para Cresyl Redistilled Floral odor. Para Methyl Quinoline Powerful and penetrating, dilution - sweet floral and tobacco like. Para Methoxy Acetophenone Sweet, but somewhat harsh hay like odor. Parmavert Powerful floral green, sweet and violet leaf like. Petilyn A very delicate and faint light green floral. Petitgrain Bigarade Oil Pleasant fresh floral sweet odor. Petitgrain Citronner Oil Distinct and pleasant, a fresh lemony floral woody odor. Petitgrain Oil Moroccan A fresh lemony floral woody odor extremely tenacious. Petitgrain Oil S A A fresh lemony floral woody odor. Petitgrain Oil Terpeneless Diffusive less better sweet floral woody odor. Petitgrainol Intensely woody neroli note. Phenoxanal Fresh floral rose. Phenoxy Ethanol Mild rosy, but also metallic. Phenoxy Ethyl Alcohol Mild honey rose odor. Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Sweet fruity rosy floral. Phenyl Di Methyl Acetal Powerful green earthy flower stem like odor. Phenyl Ethyl Acetal Warm, green leafy also rosy balsamic odor. Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor. Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Mild and warm rose honey like odor. Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate Very faint floral balsamic odor reminiscent of dry rose petals.

26 Glen O. Brechbill 26 Phenyl Ethyl Cinnimate Very faint and sweet pleasant balsamic rosy odor. Phenyl Ethyl Formate Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor. Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate Fresh fruity tea rose type. Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether Powerful diffusive, dilution - jasmin tobacco like. Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Heavy and very sweet floral balsamic odor, musky honey like. Phenyl Ethyl Pivalate Floral possibly faintly rosy pratically no odor. Phenyl Ethyl Propionate Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity. Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate Faint, but sweet and delicate balsamic floral. Phenyl Propyl Acetate Fresh floral powerful fruity green. Phenyl Propyl Alcohol Warm and mild balsamic floral, sweet odor. Phenyl Propyl Aldehyde Floral hyacinth, lilac, balsamic green. Phixia Sweet, floral at first delicate refreshing mild. Phytia Abs. Powerful floral herbaceous balsamic, not sweet. Phytol Delicate floral balsamic notes reminiscent of nerolidol, farnesol. Pivarose Floral tea rose. Piviane 2 A sweet rosy floral fragrance. Polarose Powerful fatty oily waxy rosy odor. Pseudo M I Terpenes A harsh floral violet like odor. Racinia Reseda Body Rhodinol X Citronella Rhodinol Coeur Rhodinyl Acetate Rhodinyl N Butyrate Rhodinyl Formate Rhodinyl Phenyl Acetate Rhodinyl Propionate Rhodinyl Salicylate Rhodinyl Valerate Rosacene Rosalva Rose Abs. Moroccan Rose Abs. Turkey Rose Crystals Rose Essence 193 Rose Essence Bulgare Rosemary Oil Rose Nitrile Rose Oil Moroccan Rose Oil Moroccan Select Rose Oil Templar Rose Oil Turkey A dry floral rose complex. Delicate, but powerful hyacinth, narcisus, reseda note. Naturally sweet rosy floral. Geranium rose. Sweet, light refreshing rose muguet, green leafy notes. Intensely sweet mellow fruity deep rosy. Fresh leafy green delicate rosy. Sweet, very deep soft honey like rose. Rich and sweet fruity floral rose geranium type. Very weak sweet rosy powdery balsamic odor. Heavy fruity, slightly earthy green, but also sweet odor. A nice light delicate floral rose compound not overly sweet. Powerful fatty oily, waxy rose odor. Extremely fresh and sweet floral rose odor. A tenacious diffusive sweet floral, truly captures fresh flower. Mild, at first very weak green rosy balsamic odor. A very strong, but yet sweet floral rosy fresh odor. A very diffusive vivacious rose odor, slightly sweet floral nice. Woody herbaceous, reminiscent of spike lavender oil. Rich rose geranium woody iris. Deep sweet, rich and tenacious floral rose. The finest moroccan rose fragrance at an attractive cost. A typical sweet rose odor whose source is rooted in English lore. Diffusive strong vibrant floral rose scent reminiscent of the rose.