International Symposium of Local Artisanal Cheeses in Turkey and the World: The Use of Geographical Indication for Kars Kaşarı Cheese July 2016

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1 International Symposium of Local Artisanal Cheeses in Turkey and the World: The Use of Geographical Indication for Kars Kaşarı Cheese July 2016 Convenor: Bogatepe Environment and Life Association, and Ecomuseum Zavot This Symposium is sponsored by Serhat Development Agency Bogatepe Environment and Life Association Kafkas University Metro Turkish Republic Ministry of Food, Agriculture and Livestock The Governor of Kars The Municipality of Kars Kars Chamber of Commerce and Industry Friends of the Kitchen Association Logos Slow Food Kars Convivium Slow Food Balcony Gardens Convivium Slow Food İzmir Bardacik Convivium Turkish Republic Ministry of Development

2 SCHEDULE AT A GLANCE 15 July 2016 Kafkas University (Faculty of Veterinary, Necdet Leloğlu Conference Hall) 09:00-10:30 Opening Ceremony 10:30-11:00 Keynote Speech- Tracing the History of Local Artisanal Cheeses 11:00-11:20 Coffee-Tea Break 11:20-12:00 Panel Session- The Geographical Indication Control Mechanisms of Swiss Cheeses 12:00-12:20 Keynote Speech Cultures and Borders in Caucasus 12:20-13:30 Lunch 13:30-14:30 Paper Sessions Kars Cheesemaking: Tradition and Future 14:30-14:50 Keynote Speech- Food, Locality and International Certification 14:50-15:00 Coffee-Tea Break 15:00-16:00 Paper Sessions - Researches on Local Artisanal Cheeses in the World 16:00-17:00 Paper Sessions - Production of Scientific Evidence for Territorial Distinctiveness 17:00-17:30 Paper Sessions - The Awareness on Geographical Indications and Trends in Consumption Patterns of Cheese in Turkey 20:00 Dinner 16 July 2016 Kafkas University (Faculty of Veterinary, Necdet Leloğlu Conference Hall) 09:00-10:00 Panel Session- Geographical Indication, Traditional Production and Food Production Standards 10:00-10:20 Keynote Speech -Milk, Locality and Kashkaval Tradition 10:20-10:30 Coffee-Tea Break 10:30-11:30 Paper Sessions- Researches on Local Artisanal Cheeses in Turkey 11:30-11:50 Keynote Speech Ecological, Cultural Heritage and Sense of Place 11:50-12:00 Coffee-Tea Break 12:00-13:00 Panel Session - Local Cheese Producers: Problems and Organization 13:00-15:00 Fieldtrip Industrial Zone and Lunch 15:00 Fieldtrip Ani Ruins / Cildir Lake 20:00 Dinner 21:30 Party- Kars Castle 17 July 2016 Boğatepe Village 08:30-10:30 Breakfast and Presentations 10:30-11:30 Dairy and Ecomuseum Tour 11:30-12:30 Cheese Tasting Workshop 12:30-13:30 Feast Table 14:15 Departure for Kars 15:00 Documentary Premiere: Zavot

3 DETAILED SCHEDULE 15 JULY 2016 (KAFKAS UNIVERSİTY) 1-OPENING CEREMONY (09:00-10:30) İlhan Koçulu Prof. Mitat Şahin Selçuk Can Tez Fahri Ötegen Çetin Demirci Assoc. Prof. Hüsnü Kapu Dr. Hüseyin Düzgün Murtaza Karaçanta Prof. Sami Özcan Rahmi Doğan Bogatepe Environment and Life Association Symposium Organizing Committee Metro Kars Chamber of Commerce and Industry Ardahan Chamber of Commerce and Industry Serhat Development Agency Kars Province Directorate of Food, Agriculture and Livestock The Municipality of Kars Kafkas University The Governorship of Kars 2-TRACING THE HISTORY OF LOCAL ARTISANAL CHEESES (10:30-11:00) The Long Lasting Journey of Cheesemaking in Turkey: Past, Present and Future Prof. Artun Ünsal (Galatasaray University, Political Science) 3-THE GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION CONTROL MECHANISMS OF SWISS CHEESES (11:20-12:00) Moderator: Dr. Saduman Karaca (Üsküdar University, Medical and Aromatic Plants) The Code of Conducts and Control Mechanisms in Geographical Indication Protection of Traditional Emmentaler Cheese Andreas Bigler (Switzerland Milk Industry Archive, Switzerland) The Conditions of High Quality Traditional Cheese Production and Artisanship Training Ernst Beyeler (Switzerland Milk Industry Archive, Switzerland) The Story of the Emergence of Four-cornered Emmentaler Cheese: Advantages and Disadvantages Christian Juan (Michael Bergkäserei Mountain Cheese- Marbach AG, Switzerland) 4-CULTURES AND BORDERS IN CAUCASUS (12:00-12:20) Geographical Indication in Caucasus: Lost in Transmission Prof. Neşe Özgen (Mimar Sinan Güzel Sanatlar University, Sociology) 5- KARS CHEESEMAKING: TRADITION AND FUTURE (13:30-14:30) Moderator: Prof. Neşe Bilgin (Boğaziçi University, Molecular Biology and Genetics) Aromatic Finger Prints of Kars Kasarı Prof. Yahya Kemal Avşar (Mustafa Kemal University, Food Engineering) The Role of Plants in the Positive Effects of Kars Kasarı on Human Health Dr. Saduman Karaca (Üsküdar University, Medical and Aromatic Plants) The Taste of History in Kars Cheesemaking Fatih Tatari (University of California Davis, Anthropology, USA) The Effect of Neoliberal Economic Policies on the Relations of Production: The Case of Bogatepe Village Dr. Özkan Aydar (Iğdır University, Sociology)

4 6- FOOD, LOCALITY, AND INTERNATIONAL CERTIFICATION (14:30-14:50) Can Keşkek Have a Nation? Cultural Heritage and Food Prof. Zafer Yenal (Boğaziçi University, Sociology) 7-RESEARCHES ON LOCAL ARTISANAL CHEESES IN THE WORLD (15:00-16:00) Moderator: Armine Avetisyan (Independent Researcher) The creation of a local cheese: How the local became a quality in the history of Danish cheesemaking Asmus Gamdrup Petersen Jensen (Kopenhag University, History and Co-owner of Kost, Denmark) Cheese Production as Cultural Heritage Dr. Nanuli Azikulii (I. J. Tbilisi State University, Ethnology of Georgia, Georgia) Cheesemaking Culture in Armenia, Traditions and Novelties Dr. Svetlana Hayk Poghosyan (National Academy of Science of Armenia, Institute of Archeology and Ethnography) 8- PRODUCTION OF SCIENTIFIC EVIDENCE FOR TERRITORIAL DISTINCTIVENESS (16:00-17:00) HACCP Based Practical Food Safety System for the Conventional Cheese Manufacturers Assoc. Prof. Nezih Müftügil (Okan University, Food Engineering) Determination of the Geographical Origin of Kars Kaşar Cheese: A Preliminary Study Dr. Muammer Kaplan (TÜBİTAK Marmara Research Centre, Food Institute), Somer Bekiroğlu (TÜBİTAK MRC, Chemical Technology Institute), İbrahim Sani Özdemir (TÜBİTAK MRC, Food Institute), and Elmas Öktem Olgun (TÜBİTAK MRC, Food Institute) Use of Mitochondrial DNA in Determination of Authenticity of Diary Product Müge Arkadaş (Mustafa Kemal University, Food Engineering) and Prof. Yahya Kemal Avşar (Mustafa Kemal University, Food Engineering) Human Sensory Evaluation of Cheese Assist. Prof. Birsen Bulut Solak (Selçuk University, Gastronomy and Culinary Arts) 9- THE AWARENESS ON GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS AND TRENDS IN CONSUMPTION PATTERNS OF CHEESE IN TURKEY ( :30) Moderator: Dr. Derya Nizam Consumers Evaluation of Food Quality Labeling as a Geographical Indication: A Case Study in Yalvac Slowtown, Isparta Birgül Gök (Selçuk University, Department of Tourism Management), Assist. Prof. Birsen Bulut Solak (Selçuk University, Gastronomy and Culinary Arts), Osman Altıntaş (Selçuk University, Department of Travel Management and Tourist Guidance), Vedat Eken (Selçuk University, Department of Travel Management and Tourist Guidance), Consumers Knowledge about Geographical Indication of Food Products Reasons of Their Preference for Traditional Cheeses with Geographical Indication: A Case Study in Konya Mehmet Ertaş (Selçuk University, Department of Tourism Management), Assist. Prof. Birsen Bulut Solak (Selçuk University, Gastronomy and Culinary Arts), Hasan Avcı (Selçuk University, Department of Tourism Management) and Ali Kurnazı (Selçuk University, Department of Tourism Management)

5 16 JULY 2016 (KAFKAS UNIVERSİTY) 10-GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION, TRADITIONAL PRODUCTION, AND FOOD PRODUCTION STANDARDS (09:00-10:00) Moderator: Prof. Zafer Yenal (Boğaziçi University, Sociology) The characteristics of Local Artisanal Cheesemaking in Anatolia İlhan Koçulu (Boğatepe Gravyer Cheese Producer) Food Hygiene, Traditional Products, Exceptions and Regulations Halil Apaydın (T.R. Ministry of Food, Agriculture and Livestock) The importance of Tradition and History for Geographical Indications Gonca Ilıcalı (Turkish Patent Institute) BUKOOP: Creating Alternative Supply Chains for Food Sovereignty Kamber Yılmaz (BUKOOP: Boğaziçi Members Comsumer Cooperative) 11-KASHKAVAL CHEESE AND TRADITIONAL CRAFT PRACTICES (10:00-10:20) Protection of Origin of Traditional Galichki Kashkaval Prof. Sonja Sbrinovska (Ss. Cyril and Methodius University, Agricultural Science and Food, Macedonia) 12- RESEARCHES ON LOCAL ARTISANAL CHEESES IN TURKEY (10:30-11:30) Moderator: Nedim Atilla (Slow Food İzmir Bardacik Convivium) Cheese Journey from The Balkans to Aegean: Oral History of İmren Dairy Farm Assist. Prof. Erhan Akarcay (Anadolu University, Sociology) Kopanisti: The Cheese which Resists Industrialization Assist. Prof. Engin Önen (Ege University, Sociology) Localization of Tradition in Global Competition: Geographical Indication and Divle Obruğu Tulum Cheese Zafer Yaşar ( T.R. Ministry of Food Agriculture and Livestock) Çivil Cheese 13- ECOLOGICAL, CULTURAL HERITAGE AND SENSE OF PLACE (11:30-11:50) The Ecomuseum Ideal and Sense of Place Prof. Gerard Corsane (Newcastle University, Heritage, Museum and Gallery Studies) 14-LOCAL CHEESE PRODUCERS: PROBLEMS AND ORGANIZATION (12:00-13:00) Moderator: Prof. Artun Ünsal (Galatasary University, Political Science) Tire White Cheese Mahmut Eskiyörük (The Milk Cooperative of Tire) Karaman Divle Obruğu Cheese İbrahim Bayrak (Cheese Producer, Karaman)

6 Erzurum Çivil ve Küflü Çivil Cheese Abdurrezzak Cellat (Cheese Producer, Erzurum) İzmir Bergama Deri ve Teneke Tulumu Harun Egi (Cheese Producer, Dikili) Erzincan Tulum Cheese Süleyman Efendigil (Cheese Producer, Erzincan) Gelibolu Cheese Halva Süleyman Burak Batır (Cheese Halva Producer, Gelibolu) FIELD TRIP: INDUSTRIAL ZONE AND LUNCH (13:00-15:00) FIELD TRIP: ANİ RUINS / ÇILDIR LAKE (15:00) 17 JULY 2016 (BOGATEPE VILLAGE) 15- BREAKFAST AND PRESENTATIONS (08:30-10:30) The Journey of Gruyere From Alps to Caucasus Andreas Bigler (Switzerland Milk Industry Archive, Switzerland) Friends of the Kitchen Association s Projects Supporting Sustainable Cheese Production Zeynep Kakınç (Friends of the Kitchen Association) The Ark of Taste and Presidium Activities in Boğatepe Village within the project of ESSEDRA Burcu Gezeroğlu (The Previous Project Coordinator of ESSEDRA) New Tastes for Traditional Palates Beyhan Gence Unsal (Sociologist and Mest Executive Chef) DAIRY AND ECOMUSEUM TOUR (10:30-11:30) CHEESE TASTING WORKSHOP (11:30-12:30) Assoc. Prof. Fügen Durlu Özkaya FEAST TABLE (12:30-13:30) DEPARTURE FOR KARS (14:15) DOCUMENTARY PREMIERE: ZAVOT (15:00 in Bogatepe Village) Director: Erdinç Yılmaz

7 Posters Flavor Formation in Cheese Assoc. Prof. Meryem Aydemir Atasever (Atatürk University, Food Hygiene and Technology) Assist. Prof. Hayrunisa Ozlu (Atatürk Üniversity, Nutrition and Dietetics) Lactic Acid Bacteria Heat-induced Dissociation of Casein Micelles Assist. Prof. Selda Bulca (Adnan Menderes University, Food Engineering) The renneting properties of ultra-high heated casein dispersions Assist. Prof. Selda Bulca (Adnan Menderes University, Food Engineering) Kars Kaşar Peynirin Özellikleri ve Kars ta Üretim Durumu Assist. Prof. Asya Çetinkaya (Kafkas University, Food Engineering) Dil Cheese Dilek Say (Cukurova University, Food Engineering) Flavoring Agents Utilization in Turkish Cheeses Mine Çürük (Cukurova University, Food Engineering) Geographical Indication in Turkish Cheese Örgü Cheese Geographical Indication for Foods and the Geographical Indication Products in Erzurum Assist. Prof. Hayrunnisa Özlü (Atatürk Üniversity, Nutrition and Dietetics) Assoc. Prof. Meryem Aydemir Atasever (Atatürk University, Food Hygiene and Technology)

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