IV. Culture on the border of East and West

IV. Culture on the border of East and West IV Do not just be a spectator of our bustling cultural life, be a participant, get involved! Hungary is a real cultural adventure: someone living here will not lose contact with European culture, and can experience other spiritual novelties not found elsewhere, and also become a part of a totally autonomous cultural world. Those coming to Hungary, naturally, have the opportunity to see the traditional tourist sites. Utilizing tour books, one can discover the renowned cultural symbols. The Castle of Buda, the Parliament building, the Chain Bridge, the National Museum, the Great Church of Debrecen, the Cathedral of Szeged, the Mosque (Jami) of Pécs, the Minaret in Eger, the nine-arch bridge of Hortobágy, the village museum of Szentendre, and others are all important treasures of European architecture. A trip to the wooden church of Miskolc, a walk in the rustic courtyards of Budapest s downtown, or the discovery of the romantic Abbey of Zirc, can add a great deal to the post card experience. But Hungary is the pulsating living reality of continuously renewing traditions. It is a culture that amazingly combines West-European style and standards with eastern-balkan spice. From arts through fashion and entertainment, Hungarian culture is unmistakable. Beyond this cultural sphere, Hungarian music is perhaps best known by and most accessible to foreigners. Excellent recordings of the classics of Liszt, the epochal works of Bartók, the genius of Dohnányi, Werner, Kodály and Kurtág are all at hand for visitors. The twentieth century revival of folk traditions created new Hungarian music: novelties, beginning with the folk music of Szék, all the way to the chart-topping co-operation between Deep Forest and Hungarian folk-singer, Sebestyén Márta. For those interested in some real Central-European sentimental- 75

IV stuff, there are the tunes of the Vienna-Budapest operettas, and the melodies of Lehár Ferenc and Kálmán Imre. Film and movie fans already know that the golden age of European and American movies, the 1960s and 1970s, cannot be conceived without the contributions of Hungarian filmmakers. An excellent opportunity is provided in Hungary to again experience the films of Jancsó Miklós, Makk Károly, Illés György, Zsigmond Vilmos, but this time in their native environments. Contemplative visual experiences are offered by the Csontváry Museum of Pécs, by the periodical exhibitions of the Ernst Museum, or by the unique Feszty Panorama-Painting, constructed in the very centre of the country, in Ópusztaszer. Serious readings in Western languages are also available. Today s Hungarian cultural reality is better accessible through the works of Esterházy Péter, Bereményi Géza, Czakó Gábor, Csaplár Vilmos, Nádas Péter, Konrád György, Petri György and Kertész Imre. The preservation of folk-culture is an organic part of Hungarian art. The work of Bartók and Kodály created a whole new school, renowned throughout the world, especially in the field of music teaching (the Kodály-method). Today, folk-song groups, traditional folk-dance ensembles and a multitude of village museums present the variety of folk-dresses and handicrafts. The so-called dance-houses provide a natural form of entertainment for thousands of young people. Consumer type multiplex movie theaters and shopping malls are a pain in the neck for some, but they perfectly complement the liveliness of Hungarian culture. Alternative culture also finds its place, especially in Budapest s nightlife. This boundless cosmopolitan culture gets along very well with Hungarian national traditions, the latter having absorbed the tumbling history of the whole of Europe. The heritage of ancient Greek-Roman culture, elements of Jewish culture, the multi-ethnic traditions of neighbouring peoples, German and French orientations, Anglo-Saxon inclinations, as well as modern satellite culture are all brought together in a tantalisingly unique mix. So if you are a student looking for an exciting and inspiring environment, where you can spend your wandering collegeyears, Hungary is the ideal place for you! 76

IV Hungarian Cultural Institutes Abroad For more information in your own home country, look for one of the many Hungarian Cultural Institutes. Accademia d Ungheria_ ROMA Via Giulia 1. Palazzo Falconieri, 00186 Roma - IT (39-06) 688-9671 www.target.it/accadung/index.html Centrul Cultural al Republicii Ungare_BUCURESTI Str. Batistei 39., 70206 Bucuresti - RO (40-1) 21-04-884 Collegium Hungaricum_WIEN Hollandstr. 4., 1020 Wien - AS (43-1) 214-0581 www.collegium-hungaricum.at Haus Ungarn_BERLIN Karl Liebknecht Str. 9., Berlin 10178 - D (49-30) 24-23-738 www.hungaricum.de Institut Hongrois_PARIS 92 rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris - FR (33-1) 43-26-06-44 www.hongrie.org Hungarian Cultural Centre_LONDON 10 Maiden Lane Covent Garden WC 10 E7NE - UK (44-207) 240-8448 www.hungary.org.uk Ungarisches Kultur- und Informationszentrum_STUTTGART Haussmannstrasse 22. 7000 Stuttgart - D (49-711) 164-87-11 Kultúrny institút Mad arskej republiky_bratislava Palisády 54., 811 06 Bratislava - SK (421-7) 52442961 www.hungist.sk Unkarin Kulttuurija tiedekeskus_helsinki Paasivuorenkatu 4-6., 00530 Helsinki 53 - FI (358-9) 750-866 www.dlc.fi/~hungcult/finnul/index.htm 77

IV Mad arské Kulturni Stredisko _PRAHA Rytírská 25., 11000 Praha 1 - CZ (420-2) 242-22-424 Ungarszki Kulturen Institut_SOFIA Akszakov 16., 1000 Sofia C - BG (359-2) 987-2307 Wegierski Instytut Kultury_WARSZAWA Marszalkowska 80., 00-517 Warszawa 4. - PL (48-22) 629-32-43 IV INFORMATION Once you have arrived, dumped your bags and taken a shower, the first thing to do is to become informed. Entertainment Guides Programme in Hungary/Ungarn is a free monthly publication available at most major tourist offices. It contains information regarding various venues, concerts, theatrical productions, jazz clubs, major sports events, recommended restaurants, nightclubs, etc. It also carries useful addresses and phone numbers and not just in Budapest. The Budapest Sun contains a supplement, entitled Budapest Style focusing on the capital. It includes a very comprehensive Event Diary. The most complete guide, however, is probably the Hungarian language Pesti Est (Evening Pest). It is available in almost every cinema free of charge. Knowing just a few Hungarian words, you will be able to make use of it in no time. This guide truly has everything (including a special listing of films in their original languages). Guides similar to the Pesti Est, are being established all around the country (e.g. Miskolci Est, Pécsi Est, Veszprémi Est). These can also be found on the Internet: www.est.hu You can find general tourist information on the homepage of Tourinform: www.hungarytourism.hu Budapest Leisure Time Guide: www.leisuretime-guide.com 78

INFORMATION IV Papers and Periodicals www.bbj.hu www.pesterlloyd.hu www.budapester.hu www.budapestsun.hu www.hungary.com/hunq www.jfb.hu Best known Internet-magazines: www.index.hu www.origo.hu www.netlap.hu If you do not speak Hungarian, the best way to get informed and find your way around Budapest and Hungary, is to pick up one of the foreign language papers. A wide selection of these are now available. Some focus on economic, or financial matters (e.g. Budapest Business Journal and Investment in Hungary), while others are general weeklies (e.g. the German language Pester Lloyd, the English language Budapest Sun, the French language Le Journal francophone de Budapest), others are entertainment guides (e.g. Seven). Still other publications are more academic such as The Hungarian Observer or The Hungarian Quarterly. These papers and journals, as well as the standard international papers can be purchased at most larger newsstands, such as Hírker, Hungaropress, at the airport, or at main Metro stations: Nyugati tér (West Square), Kálvin tér (Kálvin Square), or Keleti Pályaudvar (East Railways Station). If you manage to pick up some Hungarian take a peek into some of the local papers. Political and cultural variety characterises the abundant Hungarian printed media, both in relation to dailies, as well as the various informational and gossip-papers. The Heti Világgazdaság (HVG), a weekly journal in the style of The Economist, is also recommended. Outside Budapest check out some of the regional papers. TV, Radio M1, M2 www.mtv.hu Duna TV www.dunatv.hu RTL Klub www.rtlklub.hu TV2 www.tv2.hu In urban areas cable TV is available, elsewhere satellite-antennas provide access to foreign stations, as well as a wide range of Hungarian stations. In addition to Hungarian public television (M1, M2, Duna TV ) there are multiple commercial stations (e.g. RTL-Klub, TV2, ATV, etc.) and foreign channels (e.g. CNN, BBC, Discovery, Music TV, etc.) available. The majority of programmes on Hungarian television are dubbed, but check them out as an aid for language learning. Listening to radio is perhaps a better source of locally produced foreign language programmes. Public radio stations (Kossuth, Petôfi and Bartók Rádió) broadcast minority programs (in Slovakian, Romanian, German, etc.). Bartók plays mainly classical music. There are numerous pop-music stations (e.g. Juventus, Sláger, Danubius). EstFM radio station (FM98.6) 79

IV INFORMATION broadcasts a 5 minutes English language program every morning between 9:00-9:05 a.m. Hullámvadász Homepage (Broadcasting in Hungary) www.hullamvadasz.hu Books Foreign language books can be purchased at a number of places. In Budapest: Academic and scientific literature is stocked at: Atlantisz Book Shop_V. Piarista köz 1-3. Central European University Bookshop_V. Nádor u. 9. For light reading try: Bestsellers_V. Október 6. utca 11. For an eclectic mix, visit: Rhythm and Books_V. Szerb u. 21-23. Translated Hungarian books are available at the: Writer s Bookshop (Írók Boltja)_VI. Andrássy út 45. Many second-hand bookshops (Antikvárium) also sell foreign (mostly German and English) books. Read the works of Hungarians! Three Contemporary Hungarian Plays_(Gábor Czakó, Géza Bereményi, György Spiró) (Forest Books-Corvina Books) Give or Take a Day_Contemporary Hungarian Short Stories/Corvina) The Lost Rider_A Bilingual Anthology (The Corvina Book of Hungarian Verse) The Kiss_20thh Century Hungarian Short Stories (Corvina) Péter Esterházy_A Little Hungarian Pornography (Quartet Books) Péter Esterházy_The Book of Hrabal (Wiedenfeld-Quartet) Árpád Göncz_Homecoming and Other Stories (Corvina) Winter Night_Selected Poems of Attila József (Corvina) George Konrád_The Case Worker (Noran Books) Gyula Krúdy_Sunflower (Corvina) Miklós Mészöly_Once There Was a Central Europe - Selected Short Stories and Other Writings. (Corvina) Zsigmond Móricz_Relations (Corvina) Géza Gárdonyi_Eclipse of the Crescent Moon (Corvina) Péter Nádas_A Book of Memories (Vintage) István Örkény_One Minute Stories (Corvina) Sándor Weörös_Eternal Moment - Selected Poems (New Rivers Press) János Pilinszky_Crater - Poems 1974-1975 (Anvil Press Poetry) Iván Mándy_On the Balcony - Selected Short Stories (Corvina) Imre Madách_The Tragedy of Man (Corvina) Áron Tamási_Ábel Alone (Corvina Press) Dezsô Kosztolányi _Anna Édes (A New Directions Book - New York) George Konrad_A Feast in the Garden (Faber and Faber - London-Boston) Gyula Illyés_What You Have Almost Forgotten (Kortárs) Sándor Petôfi_John the Valiant (A Bilingual Edition - Corvina) László Krasznahorkai_The Melancholy of Resistance (Quartet Books Limited) 80

SEEING - LISTENING IV Museums and Galleries www.szoborpark.hu (Statue Park) www.mucsarnok.hu (Palace of Arts) www.hem.hu (Hungarian Ethnographic Museum) www.ludwigmuseum.hu (Contemporary Arts Museum Ludwig Museum) www.meo.org.hu (MEO Contemporary Arts collection) www.osa.ceu.hu (Central Gallery) www.btm.hu (Museum of Kiscell) Besides the big state museums, there are countless small private galleries. If you want to get a standard overview of Hungarian culture, art and history, visit the permanent exhibitions of the great central museums: the Ethnographic Museum ( The Traditional Culture of the Hungarian People ), the National Museum ( The History of Hungary from Statehood to the Spring of 1990 ), the Museum of Contemporary Arts and the Museum of Fine Arts. If you are interested in the gigantic memorials from the communist dictatorship you must go to the Statue Park Museum (Szoborpark Múzeum). Most museums are open between 10:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. and closed on Mondays. Some museums and exhibition halls can be visited free of charge on Tuesdays. You can find information on exhibitions and other events in entertainment guides or at the following sites: www.ace.hu/mnm/mn/eng www.port.hu Cinema HELP_Many cinemas have discount days (e.g. Corvin - Wednesday, Toldi - Tuesday). Like in many other countries, cinema in Hungary is dominated by Hollywood movies. Some are dubbed, but most can be found in the original language. Art films are also widely available: check the cinemas of the so-called Art Kino Network. They are usually listed separately under Art Mozi. For a good movie guide check out: www.est.hu www.port.hu You can find information on Hungarian film making at the following address: www.hungarianfilm.com 81

IV SEEING - LISTENING Theatre Theatre life is quite rich all over the country. In fact, considerable competition exists between the metropolitan and the rural theatres. Many famous actors and directors started their careers and first earned their reputations in the countryside (e.g. Kaposvár, Szolnok, Nyíregyháza, Veszprém etc.). Foreign language performances are held at the: Merlin International Theatre_V. Budapest, Gerlóczy u. 4. (1) 317-9338 www.szinhaz.hu/merlin as well as at the International Buda Stage_II. Budapest, Tárogató út 2-4. (1) 391-2525 www.ibs-b.hu Deutsches Theater Budapest_V. Budapest, Vigadó tér 2. (1) 342-0864 www.deutschestheater.hu/ Deutsche Bühne Ungarn_Szekszárd, Garay tér 4. (74) 510-257 In Pécs, besides Hungarian performances at the National Theatre (Nemzeti Színház), some German language productions are staged, and a few performances in Croatian can also be found. The theatre season begins in September and performances generally start at 7 p.m. It is worth buying tickets in advance. For specifics, check foreign language papers or the local Ests. Opera In addition to Hungarian celebrities, countless excellent foreign performers come to visit. The best pieces of the opera-repertoire are staged at the architecturally outstanding Magyar Állami Operaház (Hungarian State Opera)_ 1061 Budapest, Andrássy út 22. (1) 331-2550 Provincial theatres also have excellent opera companies (e.g. Szeged and Debrecen). www.opera.hu 82

SEEING - LISTENING IV Operetta Although not the most fashionable genre, operetta is still very popular in Hungary. The Operetta Theatre does stage contemporary musicals, as well as the operettas of Kálmán Imre and others. These provide a pleasant journey back into (musical) history. No rural theatre can go a season without showing at least one or two operettas. Budapesti Operettszínház_(Budapest Operetta Theatre) 1065 Budapest, VI. Nagymezô u. 17. (1) 269-3870 Dance The unique performances of Yvette Bozsik and her Company are a real must see! Although there is no separate building dedicated to ballet performances, several prestigious ballet companies exist such as the Ballet Company of the Opera (usually appearing at the Erkel Theatre), or the renowned Ballet Company of Gyôr. The cities of Szeged and Pécs also have their own excellent companies. Budapest has a very active dance theatre scene. In addition to Hungarian groups, weekly encounters with well-known international companies are also available. Main venues: Trafó - House of Contemporary Arts_1094 Bp., Liliom u. 41. (1) 456-2040 www.trafo.hu MU Theatre_1117 Budapest, Kôrösy u. 17. (1) 466-4627 www.mu.mentha.hu Central-Europe Dance Theatre (Közép-Európa Táncszínház)_ Budapest, 1071 Bethlen G. tér 3. (1) 342-7163 www.cedt.hu Music Listen to Hungarians! (compact disks and LP-s) Béla Bartók: Bluebeard s Castle. (Jessye Norman, László Polgár, Pierre Boulez. Chicago Symf. Orchestra) L. Beethoven: Piano Sonatas vol.1-9. By Annie FISCHER Sir George Solti: (The Last Recording) Bartók Cantata You should look at entertainment guides and street posters attentively, for no week will go by without some world famous musician or musical company appearing somewhere around the country. This is true concerning all genres of music, be it classical, contemporary, world-music or jazz! Classical music concerts usually begin at 7:30 p.m. The most prestigious concert and recital halls in Budapest are the Academy of Music (Zeneakadémia), the Budapest Congress Centre (Budapesti Kongresszusi Központ) and the Matthias 83

IV SEEING - LISTENING Church (Mátyás-templom), whereas in the countryside, the castles of Martonvásár, Fertôd, Keszthely, as well as the Churches of Szeged, Debrecen and Pécs serve this purpose. Jazz fans will enjoy the various clubs and restaurants featuring all styles of jazz from classical and standard, to free and experimental. The yearly menu of pop-rock concerts is qualitatively (if not quantitatively) similar to the rest of Europe. Budapest is now a regular stopover for many famous rock bands. Most of them are advertised by posters on the streets of Budapest, so keep your eyes open. Gypsy music (cigány zene) is the favourite genre of restaurants and wedding receptions. It is in fact a special hybrid genre of folk elements from both Gypsy and Hungarian traditional music, combined with popular tunes of the last century. www.fono.hu www.hunmusic.hu Profana, Kodály: Psalmus Hungaricus, Weiner Serenade. Ferenc Liszt: Hungarian Rhapsodies. (Budapest Festival Orchestra, Ivan Fischer) Liszt s Complete Organ Works by András Virágh György Kurtág: Games by Márta and György Kurtág Donizetti: Lucia de Lammermoor by Andrea Rost with Sir Charles Mackerras Zoltán Kocsis: Rachmaninoff Sonata No.2. Préludes-études. Schubert Piano Sonatas, KlavierSonaten. By András Schiff The Best of Márta Sebestyén Muzsikás: Bartók Album (Sebestyén Márta, Alexander Balanescu) Ticket Offices It is advisable to buy tickets in advance for popular performances. In Budapest: Central Box Office for Theatres_VI. Andrássy út 18. (1) 312-0000 Central Box Office for Concerts_V. Vörösmarty tér 1. (1) 327-4322 InterTicket_Telephone Ticket Service (1) 266-0000 IV MISCELLANEOUS Community Centres The 18 th century cafes such as the Casino of Pest (1830) and the Vigadó (Budapest V., Vigadó tér 2.) can be regarded as the forerunners of today s Community Centres. The impressive cafe buildings were actually designed for cultural events (literature evenings, balls, exhibitions). After the 1950 s a state network of community centres was built. Consequently, almost all Hungarian cities have such establishments today. Programs are available for nearly all generations: libraries, clubs, sport 84

MISCELLANEOUS IV communities all operate in these centres. Those interested in crafts, folk concerts, dance programs should visit one of these centres in Budapest (e.g. Community Centre of the Capital (FMH): Budapest XI., Fehérvári út 47.). Hungarian National Holidays March 15 Perhaps the most significant national holiday commemorates the 1848 Democratic Revolution and the War of Independence against the Habsburg rule. There are countless events throughout the country all day. Most Hungarians wear the socalled kokárda. October 23 - Remembrance Day Commemorates the launch of the 1956 Revolution that was suppressed a few days later (November 4) by the invading Russian troops. Many official programmes are organised during the day remembering the victims of the revolution. August 20 - St. Stephen s Day The celebration of independent statehood. Honours the first Hungarian king, St. Stephen (c. 967-1038). As part of the celebration a Corpus Christi procession is held and the Holy Right Hand (Szent Jobb) of St. Stephen is displayed in the St. Stephen Basilica. Spectacular fireworks over the Danube are organised by the government in the evening. The other public holidays are January 1 (New Year s Day), Easter Monday, Whit Monday, (April-May), May 1 (Labour Day), Day of the Dead (November1), December 25-26 (Christmas). 85

IV MISCELLANEOUS Cultural Calendar PROGRAMS - BUDAPEST DATE LOCATION OFF - Open Film Festival January Blue Box cinema Hungarian Film Week (Filmszemle)_A preview of the new usually in Budapest cinemas Hungarian films of the year. February Budapest Spring Festival_Hungary s most prestigious and biggest festival of the arts showcases the variety and richness March The concert halls of Budapest of Hungarian culture with gala programmes, including world premieres. www.festivalcity.hu/btf2002 Festival of Alternative Theatre April Budapest Open-Air Summer Festival June - August Margaret Island Danube World Carnival June 14-23 Danube Palace Budapest Farewell Festival (Budapesti Búcsú)_The celebration of the departure of the last Soviet troops leaving Budapest. This is a popular festival with various cultural programmes. www.festivalcity.hu World Music Festival (WOMUFE) Island Festival (also known as Diáksziget)_The Island Festival is one of the biggest festivals in Europe for rock and underground music held on the Hajógyári Island just a few minutes from the centre of Budapest. It lasts one week, and some call it a mini-woodstock. www.sziget.hu/english June 29-30 the first half of July July 31 - August 6 86 Vörösmarty Square, Liszt Ferenc Square, Heroes Square, City Park Tabán (1 st district) Hajógyári Island (Óbuda) Budapest Summer Opera and Ballet Festival August 4-19 Budapest Celebration of Crafts_This is the most comprehensive exhibition August 17-20 Buda Castle of artisans organised in the Buda Castle. Jewish Summer Festival_ August 25 Budapest www.jewishfestival.hu - September 1 Budapest International Festival of Wine and Sparkling Wine September 5-8 Buda Castle and Szentendre September Fest_Lectures about art with the participation of young artists, stew-cooking competition. September 13-15 Pestlôrinc, Bókay Garden National Day of Cultural Heritage_On this day anyone can visit architectural and cultural monuments otherwise accessible to only a very small group of society, such as governmental buildings etc. September 22-23 Budapest Fairs Centre Budapest Autumn Festival_This festival of artists seeking and experimenting with new forms covers practically all branches of the arts and gives a complex overall picture of contemporary arts. October 18 - November 3 concert, performance and exhibition halls Titanic Film Festival October Toldi Movie Theatre International Silent Theatre Meeting October Szkéné Theatre

MISCELLANEOUS IV PROGRAMS - IN THE COUNTRYSIDE DATE LOCATION Busó Parade_An ancient parade with busó revellers wearing mid-february Mohács masks, dancing till dawn and greeting spring with the burning of winter s coffin. Spring Festival_One of the major cultural festivals is now a twelve-year old tradition. The festival is mostly composed of classical music events. For music lovers interested in the world s top performers, it is a must. March Debrecen, Gyôr, Pécs, Sopron, Szentendre, Szombathely, Szeged Bohém Ragtime and Jazz Festival end of March Kecskemét Festive Days and Traditions_The Museum presents folk architecture, customs, culture and traditions of different regions of Hungary. Debrecen Jazz Days_One of the most prestigious jazz events in Central Europe. Veszprém Summer Festival_Including the Mid-summer Nights Feast at the Zoo. www.vmk.veszprem.hu/events.html Hunnialis and Events related to the Feszty Cyclo-rama_ Horse shows are the focal point of this programme evoking the Hungarian past. The Entry of the Hungarians, the gigantic Feszty cyclorama can be seen here. www.opusztaszer.hu 87 April - October June 28-30 July 5 - August 20 last Saturday of June Open-Air Museum of Ethnography in Szentendre Debrecen Veszprém Ópusztaszer Gyôr Summer International Cultural Festival June 21 - July 20 Gyôr Sopron Art Festival_This festival offers unique artistic performances. Its most outstanding site is the Cave Theatre of Fertôrákos, the ancient walls of which ensure excellent acoustics for the exceptional musical programs. The events of the Days of Old Music are traditionally part of the week of festivities. June 21 - July 14 Sopron Szeged Open-Air Theatre Festival July 5-20 Szeged Celebration of Bull s Blood of Eger on Saint Donatus Day July 11-14 Eger The Miracle of Flavours - Gastronomic Competition and July 20-21 Miskolc- Diósgyôr Festival Kiskunság Shepherd and Horse Days July 27-28 Apaj Festival of Kapolcs_A summer arts festival in the neighbouring villages organised on multiple locations: exhibitions, daily concerts, theater performances. It is also worth visiting the picturesque hills of the Lake Balaton area and to take a swim in the lake, end of July- Beginning of August (9 days) Kapolcs, Vigándpetend, Taliándörögd, Monostorapáti the Hungarian Sea during the day. www.kapolcs.hu Debrecen Flower Carnival August 20 Debrecen Hirös Festival Week www.countypress.hu/hiroshet August 27 - September 1 Kecskemét World Festival of Wine Songs_The ancient city of Pécs hosts this unique event where singers and musicians from four continents present centuries-old traditions related to wine culture and their nation s finest wine songs. September 19-29 Gödöllô International Harp festival October 8-13 Gödöllô Pécs

IV MISCELLANEOUS Foreign Cultural Institutes in Hungary The British Council 1068 Budapest, Benczúr u. 26. (1) 478-4700 www.britishcouncil.hu Bulgarian Cultural and Information Centre 1061 Budapest, Andrássy út 14. (1) 269-4246 Institut Français 1011 Budapest, Fô u. 17. (1) 489-4200 www.inst-france.hu Armenian Cultural and Information Centre 1054 Budapest, Deák Ferenc u. 17. (1) 267-3181 Austrian Cultural Institute 1065 Budapest, Benczúr u. 16. (1) 351-1770 www.austrian-embassy.hu Czech Centre 1063 Budapest, Rózsa u. 61. (1) 342-5818 www.czech.cz Danish Cultural Institute 6000 Kecskemét, Zimay u. 4. (76) 323-923 www.oturai.subnet.dk Goethe Institut 1061 Budapest, Andrássy út 24. (1) 374-4070 www.goethe.de/ms/bud Istituto Italiano di Cultura 1088 Budapest, Bródy S. u. 8. (1) 483-2040 www.datanet.hu/iic Polish Institute 1065 Budapest, Nagymezô u. 15. (1) 311-5856 www.polinst.co.hu House of Rumanian Culture 1146 Budapest, Izsó u. 5. (1) 343-6293 Slovakian Cultural Institute 1088 Budapest, Rákóczi út 15. (1) 318-1522 Russian Cultural Centre 1062 Budapest, Andrássy út 120. (1) 332-2154 Estonian Institute of Hungary 1114 Budapest, Bartók Béla út 19. IV.em.32a. (1) 386-2462 www.einst.ee Aula Cervantes, Universidad Eötvös Loránd 1088 Budapest, Múzeum krt.4/c I. em. 265. (1) 267-5444/2291, 2292 http://cervantes.es 88

MISCELLANEOUS IV Religious Services Addresses Hungarian Catholic Church 1071 Budapest, Városligeti fasor 45., (1) 342-6959 Hungarian Reformed (Calvinist) Church 1085 Budapest, Abonyi u. 21., (1) 343-7878 Hungarian Evangelical (Lutheran) Church 1146 Budapest, Üllôi út 24., (1) 317-1637 Federation of Hungarian Jewish Communities 1075 Budapest, Síp u. 12., (1) 342-1335 Hungarian Greek-Catholic Church 1027 Budapest, Fô u. 75., (1) 212-6962 Hungarian Orthodox Church 1052 Budapest, Petôfi tér 2., (1) 318-4813 Buddhist Congregation (Gate of Dharma - A Tan Kapuja) 1068 Budapest, Börzsöny u. 11., (1) 280-6712 Community of Hungarian Krishna Believers 1028 Budapest, Máriaremete u. 77., (1) 391-0435 Szent Margit Anglican Church Budakeszi, Vörösmarty u. 31., (23) 452-023 English language services Presbyterian_Scottish Mission Church of St. Columba Budapest, VI. Vörösmarty u. 51. Sundays 11:00 a.m. Baptist_Budapest, II. Törökvész út 48-54. Sunday 10:30 a.m. Catholic_Church of the Sacred Heart Budapest, VIII. Mária u. 25. Saturday 17:00 p.m. Anglican_Church of Hungarian Saints Budapest, XI. Goldmann Gy. tér Sunday 10:30 a.m. German language services Lutherrischer Gottesdienst Budapest, I. Táncsics M u. 28. (Burgberg) Sonntag/Feiertag 10 Uhr Reformierte Gemeinde Budapest, V. Alkotmány u. 15. Sonntag/Feiertag 10 Uhr 89

IV PARTYING Discos Every major type of disco is available in Budapest (Rock, Acid, Techno, Rave, Funk and House), but mind the bouncers! Musical events are often organised at unique sites such as thermal spas, industrial warehouses or natural caves. These attract large crowds that can enjoy not only the music but also some famous architectural and natural sites of the country. Other common places for entertainment are the university clubs where entrance for students is often free of charge (e.g. Cellar Club of the Budapest University of Economic Sciences and Public Administration (IX. Fôvám tér 8) or the E-club (X. Népligeti u. 2.). Dance Houses Dance Houses (táncház), popular among Hungarian students, provide a special type of entertainment. Originally created in the 1970 s as a forum for the preservation of traditional Hungarian folk music and dance, they eventually spread both in scope and popularity, creating a whole new type of cultural community. The movement that openly undertook the idea of preserving and emphasising national identity (and thus was often surrounded by political disputes) today offers outstanding cultural programmes. The Dance House scene is now totally multi-ethnic: in addition to Hungarian, Greek, Balkan, Irish, Jewish, and Latin American dance houses can also be found. Since the language of music and dancing is international, such places are ideal for visitors. www.tanchaz.hu Get-togethers University life is inseparable from partying. College dorms have wild annual parties. The previously mentioned Stork Balls organised for freshmen are somewhat more respectable. It is worth mentioning that besides birthdays Hungarians also celebrate name days a good excuse as any to party. 90

FITNESS IV Sports HELP_If attending an FTC v. Újpest football match, be careful of who you make friends with. Choose oneof the more peaceful areas of the grandstands, where the authentic fans outnumber the more over-excited followers of the game. Active When abroad, it is easy to get lazy. Many Hungarian universities, however, have their own sports facilities, including running tracks, swimming pools, and so on. Do not wait for others to inspire you to become physically active: they probably will not! You will rather have to be self-motivated. The so-called Pesti Est program booklet provides detailed information about sport facilities and events. Advertisements for swimming pools, fitness clubs, sports fields, training programs and associations are also included in the booklet. The ice-rink of the City Park opens in the autumn, while a large variety of outside sports are available for visitors from the spring. Those who are interested in spending time in the fresh air can find numerous hiking routes and more and more bicycle routes in the mountains of the country. In considering water sports, Lake Balaton is a popular destination (swimming, surfing etc.) while fishing and rowing can be a lot of fun in Hungary s larger rivers (Danube, Tisza, Kôrös, Dráva). Renting kayaks and canoes is possible for example in Budapest at Rómaishore and in Tiszafüred on the Tisza River. Travel agencies offer horse-riding tours all year round, golf-courses are also available (e.g. Budapest Hajógyári Island), and finally the truly brave might even try gliding or skydiving! 91

IV FITNESS Sport Events Everyone is invited! DATE EVENT LOCATION February 24 Ice-day Budapest March 24 Canoeing tour Római shore - Szentendre April 6 MATÁV-Vivicittá Running Race for City Protection Budapest April 13 Mátrabérc 2002 Achievement Tour Mátra (Sirok, Kékes, Galyatetô) April 14 Canada Dry Duatlon Gala (running, bycycling) Budapest April 21 Marathon Visegrád-Budapest Budapest, Visegrád May 4 14 th Libresse Women s Running Race and Budapest Fitness Festival May 4 ABN-AMRO Biking Tour Dunaújváros May 11 Lantern Running Competition Majális Park, Miskolc May 12 Pécs-Szigetvár Marathon Pécs - Szigetvár May 15-16 Running archery competition Gödöllô, Pest County May 29 Challange Day countrywide June 2, 9 9 th Dreher Marathon Relay Budapest July 6-7 Duna Marathon Mountainbike Contest Budapest-Visegrád July - August 4 th National Amateur Beach Ball Balatonalmádi Championship July 7 Balaton Cross-Bay Swimming Balatonboglár August 10-18 Grand Triathlon Week Tiszaújváros August 24 Extreme Sports Festival Budapest September 1 17 th NIKE BUDAPEST International Half Budapest Marathon (21 kms) September 7-8 Competition around the island Danube bend, Horány September 15 Városliget Roller-skating Festival Budapest, City PArk September 22 Futapest Street Running Competition (12km) Budapest, Népstadion September 29 17 th KAISER S PLUS Budapest Marathon Budapest October 6 World Walking Race countrywide October 12 Tour de Pilis Cycling Marathon Pilis Mountain November 16 9 th Lillafüred Running Competition Lillafüred 92

FITNESS IV Sport Spectacles DATE EVENT LOCATION May 17-19 Offroad-Festival Somogybabod end of June Old-timer car derby Tapolca-Pápa-Sümeg end of August - middle of May Regular Sports Events (soccer season) countrywide June Hortobágy Equestrian Days Hortobágy June 22-23 Formula-I motor boat world Budapest championship July International Triatlon Championship Kisköre July Hungarian Derby Park Kincsem, Budapest July 18-21 Adult Kayak-canoe European championship Szeged mid-august Formula One Grand Prix_ www.hungaroring.hu Hungaroring (near Mo gyo ród, approximately 24 kilometres from Budapest, on the M3 motorway) August 25 International High Jumping Gala Somoskô end of August Budapest Athletics Grand Prix Budapest 93

IV FITNESS Thermal Baths Budapest Many hot springs can be found within the city of Budapest. This was fully appreciated during the nearly 150 years of Turkish occupation when several Turkish baths were built (Rudas, Király, etc.). These are still operating today. Other spas built around the turn of the century, such as the Széchenyi or the Gellért, are also integral parts of the city s bath-culture, and most definitely worth visiting. Around the country There are several interesting thermal spas elsewhere in the country. Gyula, Hajdúszoboszló, Sárvár and Harkány are important to note. If the opportunity arises, be sure to visit the Cave Bath of Miskolc Tapolca, and the Thermal Lake at Hévíz. Puskás Football, the most popular game in the world is a real national matter, and a source of legends in Hungary. This is partly related to the fact that, at certain points in history Hungarian football achieved extraordinary results. This was so already in the 1930s, but the true peak was reached during the first half of the 1950s. The legendary eleven, the Golden Team comprised of Grosics, Lóránt, Lantos, Zakariás, Buzánszky, Hidegkúti, Bozsik, Budai, Puskás, Kocsis, and Czibor went undefeated for a most remarkable period of time. During their series of victories they defeated the English team at Wembley stadium in April 1953. Although the dictatorial communist regime took full advantage of the team s success, the football stars, most of whom emigrated from Hungary, and Puskás Öcsi in particular, have become living legends for Hungarians. Public opinion holds that it is primarily through them that Hungarians are known outside Hungary, and this explains the significance of Hungarian football, despite the fact that its level and internal state today are light-years away from those early achievements as well as from contemporary European standards. 94