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302 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Markku Alho, Federico Buldrini, Daniel Griffin, Jana Kocjan, Hilkka Laikko, Manuela Linder, Chiara Manenti, Bethan McIlroy, Lakhraj Minhas, Eirik Olsen, Harold Poylio, Helen Strong. AUTHOR THANKS Andy Symington I owe a large kiitos to many across the country, including Iain, Teija, Jonah and Alex Campbell, and the Schulman family for generous hospitality, Eira Torvinen for great company and an excellent dossier, Satu Natunen, Alexis Kouros and Heikki Paltto for various contributions, Ari-Matti Piippo and Tuomo Polo for sterling bar research and Laura Klefbohm for Suomenlinna help. Various much-appreciated friends keep things well-oiled at home during my frequent absences, particularly Eduardo Cuadrado Diogo, José Eliseo Vázquez González, Mike Burren and Richard Prowse. Excellent co-author Catherine Le Nevez and editor Gemma Graham have been an absolute pleasure to work with and my parents are a constant support. Catherine Le Nevez Kiitos paljon/tack så mycket first and foremost to Julian, and to all of the locals, tourism professionals and fellow travellers who provided insights, inspiration and good times. Thanks especially to Maria and family in Turku, Raisa in Uusikaupunki (and Newcastle), Mark for the language lessons and René for the beers. Huge thanks too to ace coordinating author Andy Symington and destination editor Gemma Graham, and all at LP. As ever, merci encore to my parents, brother, belle-sœur and neveu. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Aurora borealis over the Pyhä-Luosto National Park, Nicholas Roemmelt/Getty

303 THIS BOOK This 8th edition of Lonely Planet s Finland guidebook was researched and written by Andy Symington and Catherine Le Nevez. The previous edition was written by Andy Symington and Fran Parnell. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor Gemma Graham Product Editor Tracy Whitmey Coordinating Editor Kristin Odijk Book Designer Wibowo Rusli Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Cartographer James Leversha Assisting Editors Kate James, Kate Mathews, Gabrielle Stefanos, Jeanette Wall Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Sasha Baskett, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Martine Power, Samantha Tyson, Lauren Wellicome BEHIND THE SCENES

304 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index Note that Å, Ä and Ö come at the end of the Finnish alphabet. A Aalto, Alvar 280 buildings in Helsinki 61, 62 buildings in Lahti 141 buildings in Jyväskylä 156 buildings in Muuratsalo 160 buildings in Rovaniemi 231 buildings in Säynätsalo 160 buildings in Seinäjoki 198 accommodation 18, 288 9, see also individual locations, snow hotels farmstays 172 hiking huts 31 summer cottages 11, 152, 277, 11 activities 28 35, 221, see also individual activities adventure sports 79, 103, see also individual sports Air Guitar World Championships 211 air travel to/from Finland 293 within Finland 295 airports 17 alcohol 286 amusement parks Jukupark Turku 79 Linnanmäki & Sea Life 53 Mariehamn 112 Muumimaailma 84 Santapark 236 7 Santa s Reindeers 180 Serena 73 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Särkänniemi 128 Waslandia 200 Anderson, Amos 50, 89 animals 36 7, 231, see also individual animals aquariums 53, 103, 128 Archipelago National Park 89 90 architecture 19, 20, see also Aalto, Alvar Arctic Circle (Napapiiri) 236 7 art 18 19, 284 art galleries Ars Nova 77 Ateneum 49 Didrichsen Taidemuseo 49 Gösta 136 Kiasma 49 Villa Gyllenberg 49 arts 282 4 ATMs 291 aurora borealis (Northern Lights) 24, 249, 2 B bathrooms 292 bears 11, 18, 220, 11 bear watching 11 Kuhmo 218 Kuusamo 221 Lieksa 182 beer 102, 111, 286 berries 32 bicycling, see cycling, mountain biking birdwatching 35 Lemmenjoki National Park 258 Liminganlahti 215 Patvinsuo National Park 182 3 Ruka 220 boat travel, see cruises, ferry travel books 264, 282-3 border crossings 293 4 Brahe, Per 267 breweries, see also beer Beer Hunter s 196 Malmgård 102 Rekolan Panimo 97 Stallhagen Brewery 117 Bronze Age sites 194 brown bears 11, 18, 11 brunssi 61 budgeting 16 bus travel to/from Norway 293 4 to/from Russia 294 to/from Sweden 293 within Finland 295 6 business hours 291 C camping 30 1 canoeing & kayaking 13, 34, Ekenäs 94 Kitkajoki 226 Kolovesi National Park 153 Kuusamo 225 6 Linnansaari National Park 152 Nurmijärvi 185 Oulanka National Park 223 5 Oulankajoki 225 Ruka 221 Ruunaa 183 Squirrel Route 153 car travel 277, 294, 296 castles 36 Hämeenlinna 137 Kajaanin Linna 216 Kastelholms Slott 117 Kultaranta 84-5 Olavinlinna (Savonlinna) 146-7 Raseborg 96 Turun Linna 76 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals cell phones 291 2 children, travel with 36 7 churches & cathedrals Kerimäki Church 151 Pyhän Ristin Kirkko 137 Temppeliaukion Kirkko 50 3 Tuomiokirkko (Helsinki) 45 Tuomiokirkko (Porvoo) 98 Tuomiokirkko (Tampere) 126 Tuomiokirkko (Turku) 76 cinema 67, 94, 115, 133, 193, 291 see also films climate 16, 21 4, see also individual regions climate change 265 convents & monasteries Lintula 156 Valamo 155 costs 16 credit cards 291 cross country skiing 33 4, see also skiing Hossa 219 Patvinsuo National Park 182-3 Pyhä Luosto National Park 247 Ruka 221 Sotkamo 217 Syöte 216 cruises Helsinki 55 64 Jyväskylä 156 Kotka 105 Kuopio 162 Lahti 141 2

305 Lake Saimaa 169 Savolinna 147 Tampere 129 30 Turku 78 9 Uusikaupunki 189 culture 264 5, 276 8 currency 291 customs regulations 289 90 cycling 32 3, 295 Mail Road 116 Oulu 211 Åland Archipelago 14, 116, 14 D dance 277 debit cards 291 design 10, 279 81 disabilities, travellers with 292 diving Hanko 91 Mariehamn 112 dog sledding 9, 33, 9, see also reindeersledding Hetta 242 Ivalo 254 Koli 179 Lieksa 182 Muonio 242 Ruka 220, 221 downhill skiing 33, see also cross-country skiing, skiing drinking & nightlife 13, 286, see also beer, individual locations driving, see car travel E Eckerö 122 3 economy 264 5 Ekenäs 94-6 Ekenäs Archipelago National Park 95 electricity 290 elk 18 emergencies 17 language 300 environmental issues 265 Espoo 71 3 Estonia, travel to 71 events see festivals & events exchange rates 17 F farmstays 288 ferry travel to/from Estonia 295 to/from Germany 295 to/from Russia 295 to/from Sweden 294 5 within Finland 295 festivals & events 21 4, see also film festivals, music festivals, sports events Baltic Herring Fair 57 Helsingin Juhlaviikot 57 Helsinki Päivä 22, 57 Itsenäisyyspäivä 24 Juhannus (Midsummer) 22 Pitsiviikko 191 Runeberg Day 21 Siirrettävien Saunojen 197-8 Unikeonpäivä 23 Vappu 22, 57 Wife-Carrying World Championships 160 film festivals Midnight Sun Film Festival 248 Rauma 193 Skábmagovat 256 Tampere Film Festival 130 films 264, 291 Finnish language 299-301 Finström 116 17 fishing 34 5, see also ice-fishing Hossa 219 Imatra 173 Kymijoki 105 Lieksa 181 Muonio 242 Nuorgam 261 Nurmijärvi 185 Ruka 221 Ruovesi 134 Ruunaa 183 Tornio 238 Fiskars 96 7 food 12, 20, 285 6, 290, see also individual locations Franck, Kaj 281 Fäboda 205 G Gallen Kallela, Akseli 49, 72, 77, 282, 284 galleries, see art galleries gay travellers 290 Helsinki 55 Geta 120 go karting 79 H Halonen, Pekka 73, 104, 284 Halonen, Tarja 272 Hamina 106 7 Hammarland 121 2 handicrafts 257-8, 275 Hanko 14, 90 4, 92, 14 Hattula 137 Hattuvaara 178 9 health 290 Helsinki 38, 42-71, 43, 46 7, 52 3, 72 accommodation 42, 57 60 activities 55 6 climate 42 drinking & nightlife 65 6 entertainment 66 7 festivals & events 57 food 42, 60 5 highlights 43 shopping 68 sights 44 55 tourist information 69 tours 56 travel seasons 42 travel to/from 70 travel within 70 1 walking tour 51 websites 60 Helvetinjärvi National Park 135 Hetta 242 3 Heureka 50 Hiekkalinna sandcastle 169 Hiekkasärkät 206 7 Hiidenportti National Park 217 hiking 9, 24, 28, 30 2 Hossa 219 Juuma 226 Karhunkierros Trek 223 Karhunpolku (Bear s Trail) 185 Kuhmo 218 Lapland 227 Lemmenjoki National Park 258 North Karelia 184 5 Nuuksio National Park 73 Pallas Yllästunturi National Park 243 4, 244 Pyhä Luosto National Park 247 Ruka 220, 221 Ruunaa 183 4 Saariselkä Wilderness 251, 254 Sevettijärvi 262 Susitaival (Wolf s Trail) 184 Tampere 129 Tapion Taival (Fighter s Trail) 185 UKK route 218 Ylläs 239 history 266 73 Cold War 271 2 early settlement 266 nationalism 268 71 post Cold War 272 Russian occupation 268 Swedish rule 190, 267 8 Winter War 91, 137, 218, 219, 230, 270 WWII 73, 137, 154, 179, 198, 270 hitchhiking 296 holidays 291 Hollola 143 horse riding Eckerö 122 Inari 256 Kemijärvi 246 Koli National Park 179 Lieksa 181 Hossa 219 house museums Amurin Työläismuseokortteli 128 Palanderin talo 138 Tuupalan Museo 218 Houtskär 88 9 huskies 9, 231, see also dog sledding Häme 137 43 Hämeenlinna 137 40, 138 Hämeenlinna Castle 137 I ice hockey 67, 129, 133, 214 ice hotels 14, 21, 234, 237, 240, 15 ice skating 55 ice fishing 34, see also fishing INDEX C I

306 INDEX I N ice-fishing continued Iittala 136 7, 281 Ilomantsi 177 8 Imatra 172 4 immigration 293 Inari 255 8 Iniö 88 9 insurance 290 internet access 291 islands 20 itineraries 25 7, 51 Ivalo 254 5 J Jakobstad 203 5, 204 Jansson, Tove 84, 283 Joensuu 174 7, 175 jokamiehenoikeus 30 Jomala 116 Juminkeko 218 Juuma 226 Jyväskylä 155 60, 158 K Kaamanen 260 Kainuu 219 Kajaani 216 17 Kakslauttanen 251 2 Kalajoki 206 7 Kalevala 50, 217, 218, 266, 282 Kallenaution Kievari 134 Karelia 39, 166 86, 167 accommodation 166 climate 166 food 166 highlights 167 travel seasons 166 Karhunkierros (Bear s Ring) Trek 223-5, 224, 9 Karigasniemi 260 Kauppatori (Oulu) 210 kayaking, see canoeing & kayaking Kekkonen, Urho K 271-2 Kemi 237 Kemijärvi 245 6 kesämökkejä 11, 152, 277, 11 Keuruu 135 Kevo Strict Nature Reserve 260 1 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Kiilopää 251 Kilpisjärvi 244 5 Kimito Island 89 90 kimppakyyti 174 Kittilä 241 Kokkola 205 6 Koli National Park 179 80 Kolovesi National Park 153 Korpo 88 Kotka 103 6, 104 Kristinestad 196 7 Kuhmo 217 20 Kuopio 161 5, 162 Kustavi 89 Kuusamo 220 3 Kuusamon Suurpetokeskus 220 Kvarken Archipelago 203 L Lahti 140 3 Lakeland 39, 144 65, 145 accommodation 144 climate 144 food 144 highlights 145 travel seasons 144 Lake Pielinen Region 179 86 language 16, 299 301 Sámi 230, 275 Swedish 191 Lapland 40, 227 62, 228 9 accommodation 227, 230 activities 230 climate 227, 230 highlights 228 9 history 230 travel seasons 227, 230 travel within 230 Lappeenranta 168 72, 168 Lemi 171 Lemland 123 Lemmenjoki National Park 258 60 Lenin, Vladimir Ilyich 129, 269 lesbian travellers 290 Helsinki 55 1 Lieksa 181 2 Lindfors, Stefan 281 Linnansaari National Park 152 3 literature 264, 282 3 Lohja 97 8 Loviisa 101 2 Lumilinna 237 Lumparland 123 Lönnrot, Elias 282, 283 M Mannerheim, Gustav 54, 154, 270 Mariehamn 111 16, 112 Marimekko 68, 281 markets 12, 64 measures 291 media 291 Midsummer poles 118 Mikkeli 154 5 mobile phones 291 2 monasteries & convents Valamo 155 Lintula 156 money 291 moneychanging 291 Moomins 68, 84, 86, 129 moose watching 233 motorcycle travel 294, 296 mountain biking, see also cycling Hamina 106 Ruka 220 Ylläs 239 Muonio 241 2 museums 37, see also art galleries Aboa Vetus 77 Amurin Työläismuseokortteli 128 Arktikum 231 Bonk Museum 189 Carelicum 174 Kierikkikeskus 215 Linnoitus 169 Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Museum 76 7 Mannerheim Museo 54 Maritime Centre Vellamo 103 Palanderin talo 138 Pilke Tiedekeskus 231 Pohjanmaan Museo 199 200 Seurasaaren Ulkomuseo 53 4 Siida 255 Sjöfartsmuseum 111 Tietomaa 210 Tuupalan Museo 218 Tytyrin Kaivosmuseo 97 Vapriikki 129 Visavuori 136 music 283 4 music festivals 10, 18, 21-24 Air Guitar World Championships 211 April Jazz Festival 73 Down by the Laituri 80 Flow Festival 57 Hamina Tattoo 107 Hietsku Rock 201 Ijahis Idja 257 Ilosaari Rock Festival 176 Imatra Big Band Festival 173 Jurassic Rock 154 Kaustinen Folk Music Festival 205 Kuhmon Kamari musiikki 218 Lemin Musiikkijuhlat 170 Lieksa Brass Week 182 Mikkeli Music Festival 154 Naantali Music Festival 85 Pori Jazz Festival 196 Provinssirock 198 Rauma Blues Festival 191 Rauma Rock 191 Rockoff 112 Ruisrock 80 Ruska Swing 246 Savonlinna Opera Festival 22, 147 Savonlinna Opera Festival 10 Sibelius Festival (Loviisa) 102 Sibelius Festival (Lahti) 142 Tammerfest 130 Tampere Biennale 130 Tangomarkkinat 199 Turku Jazz 80 Turku Music Festival 80 mustamakkara 131 Mänttä 135 6 N Naantali 83 6 Nagu 87 8 Napapiiri (Arctic Circle) 236 7 national parks 9, 28, 30, 29 Helvetinjärvi National Park 135 Hiidenportti National Park 217 Koli National Park 179 80

307 Kolovesi National Park 153 Lemmenjoki National Park 258 60 Linnansaari National Park 152 3 Oulanka National Park 223-5, 224 Pallas Yllästunturi National Park 243 4 Patvinsuo National Park 182 3 Perämeri National Park 238 Pyhä Luosto National Park 246, 2 Riisitunturi 222 Urho Kekkonen National Park 253 4, 252-3 Natunen, Satu 275 Nellim 255 newspapers 291 nightlife, see drinking & nightlife Nordic walking 31, 206 Northern Lights 24, 249, 2 North Karelia 174 9 Nuorgam 261 2 Nurmijärvi District 184 6 Närpes 197 8 O Olavinlinna 146 7 opening hours 291 Oulanka National Park 223-5, 224 Oulu 209 14, 210 P Paalasmaa 181 painted churches 284 painting 284 Pallas Yllästunturi National Park 243 4 Paltaniemi 217 Pargas 87 Patvinsuo National Park 182 3 Perämeri National Park 238 pesäpallo 217 Petäjävesi 160 Pirunpesä 198 planning, see also individual regions activities 28 35 budgeting 16 17 calendar of events 21 4 children, travel with 36 7 Finland basics 16 17 Finland s regions 38 40 internet resources 17, 289 itineraries 25 7 travel seasons 16 17, 21 4 politics 264 5 population 265 Pori 194 6, 195 Pori Jazz Festival 196, 19 Porvoo 98 101, 100 public holidays 291 Punkaharju 150 1 Pyhä Luosto National Park 246 8, 2 R radio 291 rallying 23 rafting, see whitewater rafting Raseborg 94 6 Raseborg Castle 96 Rauma 15, 190 4, 192, 15 reindeer 18, 180, 231, 256, 275, 5 reindeer sledding, see also dog-sledding Muonio 242 religion 278 Riisitunturi National Park 222 road distance chart 296 road rules 296 Route 66 134 5 Rovaniemi 231 62, 232 rowing 34 Ruisrock 22 Ruka 220 3 Ruotsinpyhtää 102 3 Ruovesi 134 5 ruska 24 Russia relationship with 264 travel to 69, 70, 71, 170 Ruunaa Recreation Area 183 4 S Saariselkä 249 51 Saariselkä Wilderness 253 4, 252 3 safety 223, 230 Saimaa ringed seal 151 2 Saltvik 119 Sámi people 12, 255, 259, 274 5, 5 Santa Claus Post Office 236 Santa Claus Village 236 Sarpaneva, Timo 281 sauna festival 197 8 saunas 13, 20, 277 8, 13 Helsinki 55 Kuopio 161 Tampere 129 Savonlinna 145 50, 146 Savonlinna Opera Festival 22, 147, 10 sculpture 284 Seal Lakes 151 3 seals 18, 151-2 Seinäjoki 198 9 Serlachius, Gösta 136 Sevettijärvi 262 Shipwreck Beer 111 shopping 10, 279 see also individual locations Sibelius, Jean 77, 102, 139 Siikaneva 134 sisu 276 skiing 21, 33, see also cross country skiing Hamina 106 Koli 179 Rovaniemi 231 Ruka 220 Sotkamo 217 Syöte 216 Turku 79 Ylläs 239 ski jumping 142, 157, 231 sledding, see dog sledding, reindeer sledding snow castles Hetta 242 Kemi 237 snow hotels 14, 21, 234, 237, 240, 15 snowboarding 33, 179 Ylläs 239 snowmobiling 9, 33 Hossa 219 Muonio 242 Ruka 220, 221 snowshoeing 250 Ruka 221 Sodankylä 248 9 Sotkamo 217 South Coast 38, 74 107, 75 accommodation 74 climate 74 food 74 highlights 75 travel seasons 74 South Karelia 168 74 sport 67, see also individaul sports sports events 142 Hanko Regatta 92 King s Cup 256 Kotkan Meripäivät 105 Mobile Phone Throwing World Championships 147 Napapiirinhiihto 233 Neste Oil Rally Finland 157 Paavo Nurmi Marathon 80 Sulkavan Suursoudut 154 Tervahiihto 211 Wife Carrying World Championships 160 Sulkava 154 summer cottages 11, 152, 277, 11 Sund 117 19 Suomenlinna 44 5 Suomussalmi 219 Säynätsalo 160 T Tallinn (Estonia) 56 Tampere 12, 125 34, 126 7, 12 Tankavaara 252 3 tango 199 tar 209, 268 taxis 298 telephone services 291 2 television 291 theme parks 37, see also amusement parks time 292 tipping 291 toilets 292 Tornio 238 9 tourist information 292, see also individual locations INDEX N T

308 INDEX T Å train travel to/from Finland 294 to/from Russia 294 within Finland 297, 298 transport 293 8 language 301 travel to/from Finland 293 5 travel within Finland 295 8 trekking, see hiking Tuomiokirkko 45 Turku 76 83, 78, 13 Turku archipelago 86 9 Tuusulan Rantatie 73 TV 291 U Urho Kekkonen National Park 253 4, 252 3 Utsjoki 261 Uusikaupunki 189, 189 90, 190 V Vaasa 199 202, 200 vacations 291 Valamo 155 Vanha Porvoo 98 vegetarian travellers 286 Virrat 135 visas 69, 292 Vuonislahti 181 Vårdö 119 W walking, see hiking walking tour 51, 51 water sports 34 5, see also individual sports weather 16, 21 4, see also individual regions websites 17, 289 weights 291 West Coast 39, 187 207, 188 accommodation 187 climate 187 food 187 highlights 188 travel seasons 187 whitewater rafting 34 Kitkajoki 226 Kuusamo 225 6 Lieksa 181 Oulanka National Park 223 5 Ruka 221 Ruunaa 183 Tornio 238 Wickström, Emil 136 Wife Carrying World Championships 160 wi-fi 291 wildlife 18, see also individual species wildlife watching 218 windsurfing 91 winter sports 33-5, see also individual sports Wirkkala, Tapio 281 wolverines 18, 19 women s emancipation 269 Y Ylläs 239 40 Å Åland Archipelago 14, 38, 108 23, 109 accommodation 108 climate 108 food 108 highlights 109 travel seasons 108 travel to/from 110, 115 travel within 110 Åland Northern Archipelago 120 Åland Southern Archipelago 120 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

309 NOTES

310 NOTES

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 311 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro/MRT/MTR station Monorail Parking Petrol station Skytrain/Subway station Taxi Train station/railway Tram Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

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