Messerschmitt Me-410 Hornisse Manual Version 1.0 July 2009 Scale: 1/12 Wingspan: 51.6 in Area: 387 sq in Weight: Power: 2x C3536 Brushless Outrunner Motors Original Design By and Copyright of Timo Starkloff
Introduction The Me 410 features simple, robust construction and fast, nimble flight that make it an ideal combat model. It isn t a beginner s model though. For strength, white glue or aliphatic resin should be used throughout. Construction Fuselage: Each main fuselage side is made of four parts: FS1, FS2, FS3 and FS4. Glue the four parts together, noting the grain orientation of FS4. Builder-supplied parts: 2 each 3/8 x 3/4 x 24 Balsa sticks 6 each 3/16 square x 24 Balsa sticks 6 each 1/16 x 4 x 24 Balsa sheets 4 each 3/16 x 3 x 24 Balsa sheets 1 each 3/16 x 4 Hardwood dowel 1/4" Nylon bolt Flexible pushrods as desired Finishing materials Glue the wing saddle doublers F3, tail doublers F14 and the 3/16 square stringers to the fuselage sides. Be sure to make a left and a right side. Taper the tail doublers F14 until they will fit according to the plan top view. Version 1.0 Page 2
Glue a 3/16 stringer across the front of former F9, aligning it with the bottom edge of the former. Glue formers F8, F9 and F10 between the two fuselage sides. Glue the servo tray F14 in place. Glue doubler F8A in place. Moisten the fuselage sides at FS4 and glue former F7 in place. Glue formers F11, F12 and F13 in place, and glue formers F14 together. Make a wing mounting plate from 1/8 ply, about 2-3/4 x 1-1/2 inches. Trim to fit and glue it in place in the notches in wing saddle doublers F3. Install flexible cables or pushrods for the rudder and elevators as desired. For best control install a separate pushrod for each elevator. Plank the fuselage top and bottom with cross-grain 3/16 balsa. Glue former F6 to the nose of the fuselage. Add two pieces of scrap 1/4 balsa to round out the nose as shown on the plan. Carve and sand the fuselage to the shape shown on the cross section views. Version 1.0 Page 3
Make four nacelle skins from 3/16 balsa, 10 inches by 1-1/2 inches. Again, make them cross grain so that they will bend to fit the bottom curve of the nacelle. Glue a 1-3/4 inch wide nacelle skin to the bottom of the nacelle, centered on the keel N3 and running to the forward edge of N4. When that nacelle skin has dried, use a sanding block to sand 45-degree edges into the bottom skin and the nacelle sides N1 and N2. Refer to the cross section view on the plan. Nacelles: Glue formers N4, N5 and N6 to keel N3. Glue a 1-1/2 inch wide nacelle skin across N1 and the bottom skin. Glue another across N2 and the bottom skin. Carve and sand per the cross section shown on the plan. Glue nacelle sides N1 and N2 to the formers N4, N5 and N6. Note that N1 must be on the inner side of the nacelle, nearest the fuselage. Be sure to make a right nacelle and a left nacelle! Glue a 3/16 square balsa strip into the corners where N1 and N2 meet N4. Also glue a 3/16 square strip to the insides of N1 and N2, aligning the strip with the top edge of the nacelle sides. Make two nacelle skins from 3/16 balsa. The skins should be 10 inches by 1-3/4 inches, with cross grain so that the skins will bend along N3. Version 1.0 Page 4
Motor Mounts: Each motor mount consists of six 1/16 plywood parts. Glue the two sides and a top and bottom together. Glue the motor mount to the sides, top and bottom. Glue the motor mount doubler to the inside of the motor mount. Glue the motor mount assembly to N4. Version 1.0 Page 5
Wing: Edge-glue the three piece bottom wing skin together. Make up a top wing skin to match, but make it about 1/8 inch wider chord. Glue the aileron servo mount in place. Pin the bottom wing skin to a flat building board. Pin just in front of the spar position. Don t pin the fore or aft portions in place. Glue the main spar W13 and spar doubler W14 together. Put false leading edge W12 in place on top of the bottom wing skin(but do not glue) and hold it there by pinning the leading edge stick against it. Fit ribs W2 through W9 to the spar. Then set the assembled ribs and spar in place on the bottom wing skin. Push the ribs forward into contact with the false leading edge, and align the ribs with the etched marks on the bottom skin. Now glue the spar to the bottom wing skin, and glue the ribs to the spar. Install the wing jig under the rear of the bottom wing skin as shown on the plan. Pin the bottom wing skin and the wing jig in place. Unpin the leading edge stick and remove the false leading edge. Use scrap balsa under the skin to raise the wing bottom skin into contact with the ribs forward of the spar. Glue the ribs to the wing bottom skin. Glue the false leading edge in place. Glue ribs W1 and W10 in place. Glue the aileron leading edge in place. Glue false ribs in place at each end of the aileron. Remove any pins that would be inside the finished wing. Gently press the aft ends of the ribs against the bottom wing skin and glue the ribs to the bottom wing skin from the spar to the trailing edge. Version 1.0 Page 6
Construction Manual: Messerschmitt Me 410 Hornisse K Glue the top wing skin to the assembled ribs, spar and bottom skin. Pin and apply weights to hold it firmly in place until the glue sets. K Glue the 3/8 x 3/4 balsa leading edge in place. Carve and sand to the correct contour. Make sure the nacelles fit correctly. K Glue the wing tips in place. Carve and sand to the correct contour. K Cut out the aileron. Trim 1/8 inch from the leading edge of the aileron. Cut an aileron leading edge from scrap 1/8 balsa and glue it in place. K Hinge the aileron to the wing panel. K Build the other wing panel. K Glue the wing panels together. Reinforce the joint with fiberglass tape and epoxy. K Fit the 3/16 dowel in the leading edge of the wing. Install the wing in the fuselage. Mark the location of the wing mounting bolt and drill a hole for it through the wing and the wing mounting plate. K Glue the nacelles in place. Version 1.0 Page 7
Bring the motor wiring through the wing and nacelles. Trim and fit the plastic nacelle covers. Trim and fit the plastic cowlings. Use small wood screws such as servo mounting screws to hold the nacelle covers and cowlings in place. Inlay small hardwood block at the screw locations for more secure mounting. Canopy: Make a cockpit floor from 1/8 sheet balsa. Add a piece of 3/16 balsa at the rear for the canopy frame. You can make the canopy removable for access to the interior of the fuselage. Glue lengths of 1/8 square balsa along the sides of the cockpit floor. Glue a 3/4 wide strip of 1/8 balsa across the nose of the cockpit floor. Sand the cockpit floor to shape. Paint the cockpit floor black or dark grey. Version 1.0 Page 8
Empennage: Cut and fit all hinge slots before installing the fin and horizontal stabilizer. Mark and cut the fuselage top planking to permit installation of the fin. Slide the horizontal stabilizer in place in the fuselage slot. When satisfied with its alignment, glue it in place. Glue the fin in place. Trim and fit the plastic canopy. Glue the plastic canopy to the cockpit floor. Hinge the rudder and elevators and glue in place. Version 1.0 Page 9
Gun Barbettes: Assemble the gun barbettes from parts B1, B2 and B3. Sand to correct shape. Make gun breeches from scrap balsa wood. Paint and glue in place. Install lengths of 1/16 aluminum tube to simulate gun barrels. Use a short length of toothpick or 1/16 dowel to mount the barbette onto the fuselage in the hole provided. This is a photo of a full-scale gun barbette on an actual Me 410: Finish: We suggest that you cover the entire model with lightweight iron-on plastic covering. Fiberglass cloth and thinned finishing resin can be used to reinforce the bottom of the fuselage and the nacelles, but be careful not to let the weight build up. Control Surface Deflections: Use the suggested control surface deflections for the first flight! Aileron +/- 3/8 inch Elevator +/- 3/8 inch Rudder +/- 1-1/4 inch Version 1.0 Page 10