How To Build A Plane From Scratch

Transcription

1 BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SOLANGE (SUN ANGEL) The Solange has had a very long period in which to develop. It was originally designed for flying from the Bwlch in South Wales during 1993 as a glider which would be easy to distinguish from the crowd on the slope. However work commitments took me away from the hills, therefore it languished on the shelf for some years. Fast forward to 2008 where relocation and work allowed me the time, but no one in my new location to go slope soaring with. A very good friend of mine lived nearby who was very well known throughout the BFMA and the Scale model scene, so I planned to entice him into mid-week soaring by the simple method of giving him a few surplus models and the Solange was one of them. In short my friend was very taken with the flying properties of the Solange and thinking that it would make a welcome change from the usual crop of ARTF s suggested that the model should be kitted. Things progressed very nicely with my friend building extra models for the slope and many extremely enjoyable sessions were spent on various hills around the country, (Lincolnshire not being noted as a Mecca of slope soaring). However a short while ago my good friend was diagnosed with terminal cancer therefore I have taken the step of having the model kitted as a tribute. I sincerely hope that you enjoy both the building and flying of the Solange Tricks GOOD FRIENDS AND GOOD FLYING Prior to building please take time to read these instructions and study the required construction techniques. All plywood when manufactured has slight traces of release agent on its surfaces and will benefit from a light sanding to ensure good glue adhesion. You will need where appropriate various glues depending upon your preference. The glues used for all the prototypes will be indicated in the instructions as detailed below. a. Sandable PVA/Aliphatic. PVA. b. 30 min/5 min epoxy. 30E or 5E. c. Super glue (Thick). Sg. d. Laminating/Finishing epoxy. L/FE. Throughout all my building over the last twenty odd years I have always used Deluxe Material glues and Perma Grit tools. I hasten to add that I receive no discount or favours from these supplies but just believe in promoting good British products. With the possible building novice in mind I have made the building instructions quite comprehensive. If you have previous experience in model building no doubt your methods may differ and I never feel disappointed if people amend or change any of my designs.

2 . IMPORTANT PLEASE READ It is strongly recommended that you carry adequate insurance and only fly in areas designated for model flying keeping well away from people and property. Models are capable of serious injury or even death and should not be abused The BMFA is a good source for information and insurance. The kits are model aircraft NOT toys and NOT suitable for children. The builder/flyer is responsible for the safe building and flying of the model. The model should be checked thoroughly for damage and wear particularly linkages prior to every flight and radio equipment should be charged and reliable. If in doubt DO NOT fly fix the problem. C M Manufacturing (Cloud Models) do not accept any responsibility whilst models are being operated. If in doubt about building or flying please contact your local model flying club and seek skilled help particularly if you have not flown this type of model, get an experienced pilot to test fly and trim your model. If we can be of assistance please your question to sales@cloudmodels.com.

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4 FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION On your building board/table draw a heavy black line about four foot long and then cover your building surface with clear plastic sheet/polythene. Identify the two piece 1.6mm ply fuselage sides. The top is straight, therefore glue the front and rear sections with the tops placed together.(pva). This will also ensure you build a left and right side. Cut to size and glue in place the spruce and balsa longerons and the light ply wing seat. You will need to rebate the longerons to fit over the wing seat.(pva). Once the glue has dried pin the two sides together back to back with the ply sides innermost. Using your sanding block sand the edges to make them identical. Drill holes and elongate each side at the rear of the fuselage for Bowden cable outers using formers F3, F5 and F6 as a guide. DO NOT GLUE Measure and mark the vertical centre line of both of F3 and F5. Glue F2 to F3. (5E).Pin the right hand side down on the board. Test for fit and glue in place as indicated upon the supplied sketch. (5E). Ensure that they are upright (90 degrees) Place the left hand side in place and check that it is directly above the other side using a set square at various points including the front. Unless you are very accurate or lucky, you will need to trim small amounts from the cut-outs on the sides of the formers to obtain this fit. Once satisfied glue the left hand side in place and keep checking with the set

5 square until set. This will help to ensure that the fuselage is square. Feed the Bowden cable outer through the holes and glue in place Sg. Using the drawn line on the board place the fuselage inverted on the board so the centre lines on the two formers line up with it. Hold the fuselage in place with the supplied MDF jig blocks. You will need wire nails for this. Note the triangular gussets by the formers and the triangular reinforcement (relieve to fit over Bowden outer) for the wing nut support plate, F4. Glue in at this stage.(pva). It is very important that when the rear fuselage sides are drawn together that the area upon which the tailplane is located are parallel. This ensures that the wing/tail incidence is correct. Use the supplied MDF blocks for this. First draw the sides together and glue in formers F6,F7 and F8. (PVA). F7 fits below the spruce stringers. When dry draw the rear together with the plywood sub-fin between the sides the stringers will need tapering till the sides touch the subfin,practice it several times before you glue it. (PVA). The two small spaces either side of the sub-fin can now be filled with small off cuts of shaped 6mm square balsa. (PVA). Just at the front of the sub-fin you can see a small balsa cross piece to enable the sub-fin to be fully seated you must make a small groove with a junior hacksaw blade on the centre line of the cross piece.. Before proceeding any further with the fuselage you will need the completed wing and tailplane therefore place the fuselage to one side and commence with the wing and tailplane.

6 TAILPLANE The tailplane halves are each made from two pieces main and tip. To make a clean join hold the two parts together with masking tape along one side. Crack the two parts open like a book, run a bead of glue (PVA) in the hinges close the book and pin down to the board to keep flat round off the tips and the leading edges. The tailplane roots are cut at 55 degrees. Join with masking tape, glue (PVA), close and hold at the shown angle. Whilst the 110 degree has proven to be very satisfactory, up to +/- 5 degrees can be used. The spruce longerons need to have an angle sanded onto to match the angle of the tailplane and to ensure a good seating. Sand only the spruce longerons and not the ply sides. This will maintain the correct incidence between the wing and tailplane. Once satisfied with the fit mount and bolt the wing onto the fuselage. Place the tailplane in place and adjust so that it is upright in relation to the wing, not leaning one way more than the other. Mark the position of the hole through the bolt plate F7 then open up to accept the small hardwood dowel, glue in place as in the second picture with the top of the dowel protruding thus (PVA). When dry drill the dowel through the bolt plate F7 to accept the tail mounting bolt. Sand the bottom part of the dowel so it is flush with the underside of the tailplane. The centre join requires reinforcing with epoxy and glass cloth best done at the same time as the wing centre join.

7 WING CONSTRUCTION Each wing panel requires the leading and trailing edges gluing on. The leading edge is Obechi and the trailing edge is balsa. Glue on (PVA) and hold as shown with masking tape. Once dry trim and sand the balsa trailing edge to follow the profile of the wing. For the leading edge plane and sand initially to follow the profile of the wing and then round to complete the aerofoil shape. See the diagram sheet for the various stages. Glue on the wing tip blocks (PVA). When dry initially plane and sand the top and bottom surfaces to match the upper and lower surfaces of the wing. Aim for a thickness of about 1/16 at the trailing edge of the block. Finally round off to the shape shown in the middle picture. By way of a tip, don t if possible carry out any of the planning/shaping jobs whilst sat on the sofa in front of the TV. The third picture shows the shavings from just one wing tip, not to mention the dust on the carpet. Been there, have the T-shirt and the scars.

8 On the top surface of the wing remove the foam and veneer disc from the cut circle and level of the base to the depth required for your servos. (The width of your servo plus 5mm). Ensure that the servo lead tunnel is clear and mark its location on wing surface. Scuff the outside of the plastic servo tub and glue into place.(5e). When set, trim to the wing surface and using the marks open up the access to the tunnel. At the wing root mark the point on the upper surface where the servo lead tunnel exits the root. You are now ready to join the wing panels. Note the use of clear plastic and one of the MDF jig blocks under the trailing edge. The wing is joined upside down with the upper surface to the table. This is important as it will give the wing slight dihedral. Slide into the slots the Main and forward wing braces. Then slide the second panel into placeyou may find a slight variation in wing root thickness just ensure that the leading and trailing edges line up Practice placing the wings together until you feel comfortable with the process. Apply glue to the braces and one of the wing root faces and bring together make sure you get plenty of glue in the slots for a good joint (5E). Use masking tape to hold the panels whilst the glue sets. If some is forced out of the join leave it to set and remove. Should you have a slight step due to thickness variation use light filler to blend. To repeat, the wing is joined upside down and the leading edges must line up. Where the wing panels meet there is a point. Measure the width of your fuselage transfer the measurement to the wing plus 6mm. Remove this point and glue on the 1.6mm ply leading edge former. (5E). Line up the hole with the centre of the wing. When set shape to match the wing leading edge. Cut 125mm of each aileron then offer up the root trailing edges adjust the fit where they meet at the root if necessary. Glue to trailing edge (PVA) ensuring that the top and bottom conform to the upper and lower contours of the wing surfaces. You can check this by placing position on the fuselage). Hold with pins and masking tape. Check the wing fit to the fuselage and drill a hole F3 into the wing to allow the insertion of the brass wing dowel tube which also has to go through the ply former. Now fit the brass tube to prevent glue entering the tube sharpen one end slightly and use like a drill on a scrap piece of balsa. This will leave a well fitting balsa plug in the tube. Using the servo lead tunnel marks open up a 18mm hole. Shown in the picture are the component parts for the wing dowel prior to gluing. By using a brass tube and dowel you can easily replace the wooden dowel should you have a rough landing

9 which usually breaks both dowel and nylon wing bolt. When set trim the brass tube flush with the front of the wing leading edge. If the dowel is slightly loose wrap with masking tape for a good but not tight fit. Offer the wing up to the fuselage and mark through the wing bolt plate onto the wing the position of the wing bolt dowel cut a circle out to fit the dowel. Glue into place with one end of the dowel flush with the bottom surface of the wing.(5e). (You can prior to gluing insert the dowel and mark the surplus and remove the majority of waste). Once set remove the protruding end of the dowel flush with the top surface of the wing. Using the wing dowel place the wing and fuselage together make absolutely certain that the wing is straight on the fuselage, check the angles between the leading/trailing edges and the fuselage. When certain of the location using the hole in the wing bolt plate drill a 6mm through the dowel. Slightly open the hole in the plate to match the blind T nut, cut the four tangs off the nut and glue in place. (30E). The wing centre join requires reinforcing with epoxy and glass cloth. Make paper templates from the diagram sheet for the three shapes needed. (Kites and rectangles). The cloth at this stage is quite delicate, handle with care to avoid distortion or pulling of threads. Lay the two kites on the wing root, long point towards the tip. Then lay down the wider of the strips followed by the narrow one. This method gives a very good centre with the strength tapering off from the root. There are various methods of applying thin epoxy resin. (LF/E). I prefer to use a roller but use whatever method you fell comfortable with. If you have never used this method before use a stiff old (disposable) brush and lightly stipple the epoxy through the glass cloth. You can gauge the correct amount of epoxy required by the surface appearance. A soft satin sheen is ideal. Should you apply too much resin lay and press down kitchen towel to absorb the excess. Be careful that upon removing the towel you don t take the glass cloth with it. Turn the wing over using supports to keep the wet epoxy away from the table and repeat the process on the other side. When fully set/cured, about two to three days, lightly sand and use light filler to blend away the slight ridges in the glass cloth.

10 Return to the fuselage. At this stage you now have a choice. Wherever there is a removable component, wing, tailplane or hatch I line the mating faces with 0.4mm ply ( Not supplied). This ensures a clean sharp edge which doesn t dent. In order to do this you will need to slightly increase the gaps in the balsa top cladding on the fuselage. Here the balsa top decking, rear ply bottom and balsa sub-fin cladding have been added. Note the gaps. Should you not require to face the mating faces the gaps should be 0.4mm. If you face the mating faces then the gaps should be 1.5mm. To glue these pieces use PVA and hold in place with strips of masking tape. Spot glue the decking which is the over tailplane fairing. Also if lining the faces you should first spot glue, three of four spots, two strips of 0.4mm ply to the fuselage and then glue the hatch to the ply strips. The object of spot gluing is the make a firm joint for shaping and sanding which can then be easily separated with a knife blade down the join. Here the front and rear of the fuselage top and the sub-fin is shown after shaping with a razor plane and sandpaper. On the underside note the 0.8mm ply fuselage bottom. The balsa sub-fin cladding has been glued on (PVA), shaped and blended into the fuselage. To assist with the blending/filling of any voids use the very light filler form a DIY store. The one which when you pick it up the plastic tub feels empty. It can be applied very easily, is very light and is easy to shape. Lightly round off the fuselage bottom/sides corners.

11 With the wing bolted to the fuselage trim the large plastic belly fairing to fit the underside of the wing and match the bottom. When satisfied with the fit, scruff the inside and glue in the light ply fairing former. (5E). Mark on the fairing the location of the wing bolt and open up a hole to clear the head of the bolt. Glue the fairing to the wing. (5E). When set, use the shape of the fairing to shape the underside of the fuselage nose decking. If you wish to face the rear of the fuselage former F3, remember to leave sufficient clearance for the 0.4mm ply and whatever covering material you are using. Concerning the wing servos. You have a choice as the mounting method. Either glue them in or have them removable. I will detail both methods. To glue the servos in cover the servo with masking tape or use heat shrink tubing and use a mixture of epoxy and micro-balloons to secure the servo to the base of the plastic tub in the wing. Make sure that the servo arm is in the correct position and securely tightened to the splined servo shaft before you use the glue. Of course the big disadvantage of this method is that the replacement/removal of the servo is somewhat difficult. To cover the servo, after covering the wing cut the supplied plastic moulded servo cover to the required shape and secure using clear plastic tape. To make removable mounting for the servos follow the instructions and pictures. The slot in the ply disc is for the servo output arm. Using your servo for positioning, glue the ply blocks to match the mounting lugs on the servo. (Sg). With the servo in place mark three suitable locations for the mounting screws. Glue the balsa to the assembly as shown. (Sg). Trim the balsa to match the ply disc and open up the slot in the balsa for the servo output arm. Turn the disc over and using a suitable piece of sharpened brass tubing open up the three holes to clear the heads of the mounting screws. Drill the two ply blocks to match your servos.

12 Place the hatch assembly in the wing tub slot ensure that the slot is in line to the direction of airflow/parallel to the join line of the two wing panels. Mark the location of the screw holes. Remove the hatch assembly and trim the three ply and balsa blocks to locate by the three marks. You may need to adjust the height of these blocks to ensure that whilst there is adequate depth for your servo the tops of the screw heads are just about 0.8mm below the wing surface. Once you are satisfied glue the blocks in place. (Sg). Using the hatch assembly as a guide, mark the position of the three holes onto the blocks and drill to suit the mounting screws. Take three off cuts of from the base walls of the supplied plastic servo covers. Place them as spacers between the three blocks and the hatch assembly. Screw the hatch assembly into place and plane/sand down the balsa to match the upper wing surface. (That is why you must have the screw heads just below the wing surface). Remove the hatch assembly and glue the plastic moulding to it ensuring that the slot for the servo arm matches raised fairing. (Sg). When set trim the plastic moulding to the circumference of the hatch assembly and open up the holes for the mounting screws and the end for the control link. Place the wing to one side and recommence work on the fuselage.

13 Using a sharp, thin blade separate both the front hatch and the over tailplane fairing. You can see on the pictures the small spots of glue that were used to temporarily hold them in place. You can if you wish add the 0.4mm ply facings at this stage. With the tailplane bolted in place. Mark the position of the bolt head on the recently separated over tailplane fairing. Using either a drill or a sharpened piece of tube, the tube is neater, make a hole through the fairing. Trim the bottom face of the fairing to allow it to sit in the V of the tailplane and match the contours of the fuselage top. When satisfied with the fit glue in place (PVA) and hold with pins as shown. Should you any small gaps fill as required using lightweight filler. Top tip 1 for the build. On both wing and tailplane joins to the fuselage it looks good if you can achieve a tight fit. If not don t worry I always cheat. Obtain as good a fit as possible then wrap both the tailplane and wing with thin polythene held by masking tape. Mix up a stiff slurry of 30E and microballoons. Place a bead of the mixture on the parts of the fuselage sides that meet with the wing and tailplane and bolt them in place. Leave overnight to set. Remove the wing and tailplane and trim away the surplus mix that has leaked out the sides. Take the plate for mounting the servos and cut two holes to suit the size of your servos. Trim to fit inside the fuselage sides and adjust its height from the bottom to ensure that the projected run of the Bowden cable control wire is in line with the servo output arm. When satisfied, glue the servo plate to the fuselage sides. (5E). Offer up and trim the front hatch ply plate and glue to the underside of the hatch to act as a locator for the hatch. I have used various methods for restraining the

14 rear of hatch the best being a hard point with a small screw holding into a small hardwood block glued to the front face of F3. There are many, commercial catches available which perform the same function but at greater cost and complication. Take both the ailerons and tail control surfaces which are called tailerons because they are mixed to perform the functions of both the elevator and rudder. The ailerons are pre-shaped to match the aerofoil section of the wing. Using a plane and sandpaper shape the tailerons to the same style of cross section and round off the end of the tip to match the tailplane tip. On all the prototype models the control surfaces have been top hinged with either clear tape or the same covering film used to cover the model. To provide for movement you need to chafer the leading edge of the control surfaces. On the underside of the control surfaces draw a line 3mm back form the leading edge of the surface. Using a plane at the appropriate angle remove wood back to the line. Repeat this for all the control surfaces. Take the tailerons and hold in place on the tailplane with masking tape. Using the Bowden cable as a guide, determine the correct location of the control horns. The holes in arm of the control horn should be directly under the where the control surface will be hinged to the tailplane. Mark the location of the control base mounting holes on the tailerlon. Repeat for the other taileron. Drill 3mm holes and insert small sections of the supplied plastic tube and glue. (Sg). When set sand them flush with the taileron. Do not leave these out as they prevent the securing screws crushing the control surface. Take each aileron and trim to fit at the trailing edge of the wing between the root and the tip. Angle the leading edge the same as the taileron. As in the picture mark the wing to show the direct of travel for the control rod, transfer this mark to the aileron and carry out the same procedure with sitting the control horn from Para. 34. You can, should you wish centre hinge the control surfaces with commercial plastic hinges. In order to do this you will need to angle the leading edges of the control surfaces differently. See the diagram sheet at the end of the instruction.

15 The Solange is now at the stage for covering. Check over the entire model for any lumps, dents or high points and sand smooth. Any imperfection will usually show through the covering and spoil the finish. Cover with the material of your choice, be it plastic film, tissue and dope or glass cloth and epoxy. The control surfaces are hinged with either strips of the plastic covering material or a commercial clear sticky tape (Diamond /Crystal tape etc.). For commercial tape hold the control surface in the required location with small pieces of masking tape. Run an appropriate length of tape along the top surface, bridging the gap between the wing/tailplane and the control surface. Check for free and full movement up and down. Bend the control surface upwards as far as it will go with the top surface of the surface resting on the top surface of the wing/tailplane. Again run an appropriate length of tape along the under surface bridging the gap as with the top surface. Check for free and full movement. Attach the supplied control horns. If you chose to use the covering film to form the hinge cut suitable sized strips and use in the same manner as the tape. You will of course need to use a sealing iron to attach the strips. Install the servos of your radio equipment. Cut the supplied Bowden cable into two equal pieces. Clean one end of each cable and glue the supplied ball joint clevis to it. (Sg). Once set, test with a strong steady pull to check the integrity of the joint. Slide the cable into the plastic outer and attach the ball joint clevis to the control horn with the nut and bolt provided. It is advisable to use thread lock to prevent the nut and bolt loosening. Using clothes pegs/spring clips and scrap pieces of balsa to protect the surfaces lock the tailerons in a neutral position Assemble a metal quick link, nut and metal clevis adaptor, connect to the servo output hole of your choice. Allowing for the interior depth of the hole in the clevis adapter, cut the end of the cable to size. Remove the clevise/quick link assembly from the servo output arm and solder together. When soldering always remove any plastic/nylon items that may be affected by the heat. Using the supplied threaded rods, nuts and quick links carry out the same procedure on the ailerons. Top tip 2 for the build. For the wing mounted servos you will require to extend the servo leads. If you use an extension lead the risk is that the plugs may detach themselves not withstanding that the plugs are bulky. This is the method that has served me well over the years. Take an appropriate extension lead/servo and take a close look at the plugs. You will see that the crimped pins/sockets are retained by little plastic tags. Carefully lift these tags and the pins/sockets will slide out. Using small pieces of heat shrink tubing you can plug the extension lead and servo together, maintaining correct colour orientation, without the bulk of the plugs and sockets.

16 Control surface movements are always a matter of personal choice. The ones given below are a good starting point: a. Elevator. Up 10mm. Down 10mm. b. Rudder. Up maximum possible. Down Maximum possible. c. Aileron. Up 15mm. Down 10mm. The balance point needs to be 125mm behind the leading edge measured at the wing root. A good method is to mark the point on the centre line of the fuselage, drill a small hole through and suspend the model. This will allow you to check both axis of balance. In the nose between F1 and F2 there is a small ballast compartment. Make a small hole from underneath with a 6mm sharpened tube and insert lead shot until the model hangs horizontally back and front. Seal the hole with a plug of balsa from the sharpened brass tube and a segment of covering material. Unless you are lucky one wing will be heavier that the other. If only marginally so put a graphic/sticker on the lighter wing. If more weight is required insert lead shot into the lighter wing tip. The Solange is now complete. Pick a day when the weather is kind and the wind is directly on your favourite slope. If uncertain about your abilities to test fly a new model pick capable and trusted colleague. Take time on the first few flights to adjust to the look of the model which initially from some angles can be confusing. Aerobatic potential is as always up to the capabilities of the pilot. As the Solange is equipped with a semi-symmetrical outside loops can be challenging. To improve this requires the use of coupled elevator and ailerons, commonly called snap fall, where both ailerons move down when the elevator goes up. Most radios available today have this any many other mixing facilities. Ask any older modeller with control line stunt experience about the effect of snap flap. Where all the prototype solange s have really excelled is in their ability to remain comfortable to fly in very light conditions. A big advantage over a fully symmetrical wing. Wishing the best of fun both building and flying. El Tricks..

17 DIAGRAM PAGE Wing leading edge shaping. 1. first plane angle to follow contour of wing 2. Increase angle at the nose. 3. plane away the highpoints and smooth. Control surface hinging. 1. Hold surface in place with masking tape. Apply tape on the top surface over the wing/tailplane control surface join.. 2. Bend surface back and apply tape on the lower surface. 3. Completed hinge check for full and free movement. Glass cloth for wing root reinforcement.