Arctic Haven Lodge Fall Itinerary One of the largest herds in North America, the 350,000 strong Qamanirjuaq caribou herd roams the Barrens west of Hudson Bay. From late August onwards, throughout the autumn, the caribou are spread out over the tundra of south western Nunavut. Experience the reward of autumn colours of the tundra crimson reds, vibrant yellows and shimmering oranges as a backdrop to caribou with full racks that can, at times, walk within meters of you. The caribou are typically seen in groups of one to twenty. There are mothers with young calves along with males with their fully-grown antlers of velvet. Flying from Yellowknife with our private plane, we land at Arctic Haven lodge on Ennadai Lake. The lodge sits on a peninsula overlooking the lake. This eight-four kilometer long lake has natural narrow points where the caribou cross. Using our fleet of aluminum boats we conduct day trips from the lodge along the lake to look for opportunities to observe and/or photograph the caribou swimming in the water as they cross the lake or walk along the shore. Migratory birds call the lakeshore home - over twenty five species of ducks, tundra swans, thousands of snow geese, eagles and more. The wolves and wolverines also know about the crossing points and wait for the caribou. We occasionally see these wary animals. The caribou walk along the eskers following the trails they have been using since the last ice age. You too can walk these trails that are worn into the ground - unique paths that stretch for nearly 500 kilometres and can be seen from the air. Arctic Haven s surroundings are home to a unique history - inhabited by the people of the deer for nearly 1000 years, numerous historical sites dot the tundra; unspoiled. For the fisherman, or just simply the inquisitive: Ennadai Lake has huge pike, lake trout and arctic grayling. Bring your fly rod!
For anyone who wishes to see a grander view, there is a helicopter available for charter. Please contact if you wish to use this service. This is an experience you will never forget. From local guides who know the traditional routes of the caribou, shimmering northern lights in the evening, to the silence of the tundra broken by the hooves of caribou, this late summer/early autumn Arctic photography safari will surprise and delight at every step. This uniquely Canadian safari is suitable for adventurous families as well as the professional photographer. Highlights Arctic eco-lodge with full amenities Views of the vast and brightly coloured tundra. Sit amongst the autumn tundra colours and photograph caribou Northern lights on clear nights Travel by aluminum boat on Barren Land lakes and rivers Caribou with fully grown racks swimming and on land Fishing for lake trout, northern pike, grayling Arctic wolves Other wildlife includes birds, wolverine, bears, foxes A suggested itinerary: Please be aware that any itinerary is subject to weather, the availability of certain wildlife, and the wishes, desires, concerns and abilities of our individual guests. All activities are lead by a guide. Day 1 In the early afternoon, at the airport in Yellowknife, Arctic Haven guests meet the private charter plane that will fly them the 500 miles to Arctic Haven Wilderness Lodge. Your wallet is no longer of any use, your worries from the south are behind you, this is the start of your arctic adventure. The plane is a modern and comfortable aircraft; you will pass from trees, across the tree line and over the Barrens; it s time to sit back and relax. Flying to Arctic Haven, you ll see the Barrens from the air; the endless lakes and caribou paths forged into tundra, the sparse trees dotting the tree line amidst a fall backdrop of crimson reds, bright oranges and dark greens. The plane lands on the private strip beside Arctic Haven Wilderness Lodge. Nestled on the tree line, Arctic Haven is situated on the shores of one of the largest expanses of water on the Barrens, the one hundred kilometer-long Ennadai Lake. Guests are welcomed into the lodge, and a short introduction is given and guests are given the opportunity to settle into their private rooms. Prior to dinner, a short excursion by foot into the tree line is lead by polar-guide Richard Weber. We begin to scout for the caribou following the natural eskers; paths worn into well-defined trails from centuries of migratory travel.
For the keen fisherman, or avid learner, the local honey-hole aptly nicked named for the abundance of lake trout, offers great opportunities for catch and release fly fishing, is a short walk from the lodge. That evening, a presentation is given on the history and natural history of the Barrens; the Ihalmiut who thrived for nearly three hundred years on the Qamanirjuaq and Beverly caribou herds, lived on the very shores of Ennadai Lake until the 1930 s. The informative lecture also highlights the Qamanirjuaq caribou herd s migratory path, and the current decline of the herds across North America. Each evening and night at Arctic Haven is a chance to witness the northern lights. Virtually every clear night there is a light show in the sky. Day 2 Breakfast, served at 8:30, typically includes fresh espresso coffee, home-baked pastries, muffins, cinnamon rolls, fresh fruit, yogurt, muesli, French toast or pancakes with Quebec maple syrup, eggs, organic double-smoked bacon and sausages. Guests are given a introduction prior to heading out onto the waters of Ennadai Lake by boat. Arctic Haven has three twenty-five foot enclosed custom boats as well as a fleet of smaller boats. Today s excursion is off towards the Grayling Rapids. Driving northward from Arctic Haven, we head towards the rapids on the west arm of Ennadai Lake. The shallow waters of the rapids spilling into the lake and the narrow crossing point of land make for the perfect location for a convergence of wildlife. The caribou trails dig deep into the tundra. Caribou frequent this crossing point. A relaxed walk across the tundra which in rich in colors, mosses and berries. Guests who wish to try their hand at fishing for Arctic Grayling, either on a fly or spinning, have the opportunity to do so. No prior experience is required, some love the way a winged Arctic Grayling will treat a well-presented fly. Others are fascinated by it's rarity and appearance. Either way, this fish provides ample action for a great light tackle experience. For the photographer at heart - bald eagles frequently choose the location as a summer retreat. The caribou and wolverine often pass through the area as well. Across the lake is an abandoned prospector s cabin complete with racks of rock core samples. From the 1940s onwards, prospectors inhabited the area in search of the next lucky strike. The full day of adventure stirs up appetite. Our chef greets guests from a day of adventure on the Barren Lands tundra with a Canadian gourmet meal. Flavours include AAA Alberta prime rib glazed with a Dijon, garlic and rosemary rub; radicchio, prosciutto and reduced maple-balsamic appetizers rolls, fresh arugula
and blueberry salads with desserts such as maple creme brûlée. That evening, Richard Weber, internationally recognized polar explorer and owner of Arctic Watch, offers an informal lecture on his North Pole adventures. His historic 1995 unassisted journey to the North Pole and back a feat that has never been repeated is highlighted. For those wishing to perfect their aurora borealis skills, our staff provide an evening excursion beneath the northern lights to focus on capturing the green, red and purple shimmer as they dance along the evening skies. Day 3 We start this days adventure with a 30-minute boat ride north to the Caribou Islands. The Qamanirjuaq caribou cross the lake using this chain of islands. Groups of two to twenty caribou often island hop. The lodge has a cabin on one of the islands. This island, though only a few hundred feet across is a wildlife highway, here we have seen caribou, grizzly bears, black bears, wolves, wolverine, pine martins and even a moose! At our basecamp cabin, a fleet of kayaks await. Kayaking is a great way to quietly explore the islands and not scare the wildlife and birds. Many of the islands have archaeological remains from Inuit and Indian; camp sites and even stone tools. Travelling by boat is an excellent chance to take in the surrounding landscapes, shifting from trees to barren hills as we travel along the shoreline, away from the tree line towards the local Islands. Migratory birds including eagles, tundra swans, falcons and over 25 species of ducks call the water s edge home. The full day excursion is complemented by a gourmet meal that awaits guests upon arrival. Arctic Haven s chef focuses on local flares to the evening dishes, including fresh arctic lake trout gravlax. The Arctic Haven wine list offers some of Canada s best wines, paired to match the local dishes. That evening, guests are given free time to wander - calm, clear and cool evenings are perfect for unspoiled aurora borealis viewings during the fall season at Arctic Haven. Guest can also fish from the shore at the Honey Hole, a great place to catch lake trout and northern pike. Day 4 Another hearty breakfast begins the day at 8:30. Guests head north for the Blind Hill Hike. This seven and a half kilometer walk cross the tundra, around some small lakes then up on to the eskers. Eskers are gravel ridges that run north south for many kilometers. The glaciers formed them during the last ice age. Now they are used by the caribou during their migration because it provides an easier surface for walking. The tundra Richly coloured
tundra and small trees make for the perfect observation posts as caribou pass through, generally unaware. Crow berries, blue berries and arctic cranberries provide essential nutrients for the barren land grizzly and black bears getting ready to hibernate for the winter. A stone hunting blind lends this place its name. An observer on top of the esker can look northward and see treeless Barrens or look south and see the dark green of the boreal forest. We are standing on the tree line! That evening, after another spectacular meal, photographer Nansen Weber, offers an informal lecture on his photographic experiences on the Barren Lands. The principal photographer at Arctic Haven and Arctic Watch Wilderness Lodge, Nansen has spent the past 10 years photographing some of the most important and dramatic wildlife events in the arctic. He highlights his presentation with local photography - both of wolves and caribou. DAY 5 Today s breakfast begins with espresso, tea or juice, arctic blue berry and lingonberry waffles topped with fresh cream, French Canadian maple syrup, fresh fruit and organic Alberta breakfast sausages. This full day excursion takes us to the northern end of the Lake Ennadai. There are generally more caribou in this area. There are places with enormous sand dunes. At the north end of the lake, the lodge has a remote camp. Spending the night here is an option. Above the Arctic tree line, this is the open tundra. The area was used by the Aaharmiut or people of the deer as a hunting ground for nearly 1,000 years. Wolves also inhabit the area. That evening, guests are invited to attend a presentation on the history of Ennadai Lake - how the Aaharmiut inuit survived in the area for nearly 1,000 years, their extinction during the 1950s and the forces that came into play. Farley Mowat s book People of the Deer famously portrays the Barrens and the nomadic Inuit who once lived in this area during the infamous starvation. Several thousand Inuit lived along the shores of Ennadai lake and the surrounding area, a population that was reduced to forty-five people by the mid-1950 s; a result of starvation and disease. DAY 6 Today s adventure necessitates a gourmet breakfast to start, served at 8:30. Heading south into the tree line, today s excursion starts with a short boat ride up the Kazan River - one of the largest rivers on the Barrens. Here, the tundra begins to turn into forest birch, black spruce and tamarack trees lay claim to the territory, with caribou trails weaving amongst the sparse yet impressive arctic forest. This location is also excellent for tundra swans; the majestic Arctic swans nest on the edge of the river bank, in small grassy openings. This area was burnt by natural forest fire some years ago. Now the new growth is clearly visible all around.
For the more adventurous, there is a spectacular 7 km walk along the eskers, following caribou and wolf tracks that takes us back to Birch bay on Ennadai Lake. The walk normally takes about four hours. For those who want to walk less, a short walk amongst the forested eskers bring us to the final paths of the Qamanirjuaq caribou - only a few miles south from here they overwinter. Have your camera ready! Wolves have been seen here in the past and a den is strategically placed near one of the eskers. After lunch, guests are given the opportunity to try a final hand at fishing for Arctic grayling. The swift current of the Kazan is an excellent location for the species. Near-to world record grayling has been caught in these waters! The same location is also excellent for ducks and other birds. After dinner guests are welcome to join Arctic Haven guides for catch-and-release arctic lake trout fishing. The shallow beach on the shoreline in front of Arctic Haven is excellent for lake trout at sunset. That evening, for the foodies at heart, Josée Auclair, co-owner of Arctic Watch, provides an informal cuisine class. At Arctic Haven, everything is prepared fresh and homemade from bread to ice cream. All the meat is organic. On the tundra are edible wild foods. There is also a seminar of cleaning and filleting fish. DAY 7 Today s adventure begins inside tree-line. Following the caribou trails either on foot, by ATV or Fat Bike.. A local trapper s cabin, abandoned in the 1950s, served as one of the staple trading posts in the area for numerous years. Privately run, the cabin probably served as a depot for the nearby Nuletin Lake Hudson s Bay post. Built by hand, the unique historical site sits abandoned; hand-hewn logs, scattered pots, worn snowshoes, the site is a perfect window into time. A once-local elder explains the trapper s post: It served as a depot for trading fox furs during the 1930s. I can remember visiting the post with my parents when I was probably no more than 6 years old. We once got caught in a storm en-route to the cabin. I nearly died of hypothermia - the trapper found us, saving our lives. The full day excursion returns to the lodge in the early evening. Day 8 By their last day in the Barren Lands Arctic, guests are familiar with the area of Ennadai Lake and Arctic Haven Lodge. If there is an activity that was missed during the week or one that a guest particularly enjoyed and wants to repeat, such as special walk or fish the Honey Hole one more time. In the late afternoon, the plane will arrive to take guests back to Yellowknife. Guests can choose to spend some time visiting Yellowknife or catch a flight south.
During the week, a helicopter stationed at the lodge is available for charter to fly to more inaccessible areas or to do aerial viewing or photography. For this service, please contact us before you arrive at the lodge. Embracing the unexpected is part of the legacy and excitement of an experience at Arctic Haven. In the Arctic, there are no guarantees that we can achieve everything we set out to accomplish. The weather and the wildlife run on their own schedule. A measure of flexibility is something all of us must bring to an Arctic experience.