Measured and Modelled Wave Climates of South-Eastern Australia Ian Coghlan & Bill Peirson WRL, UNSW Russel Morison & Michael Banner Maths, UNSW The University of New South Wales, Sydney, 2052.
Wave Measurement Records 18 long term datasets recorded in 15 to 100 m water depth from around the Australian coastline.
Queensland
New South Wales
Victoria
Tasmania
South Australia
Western Australia
Northern Territory
Wave Measurement Records 18 long term datasets recorded in 15 to 100 m water depth from around the Australian coastline.
National Wave Climatology Mean H S (m) over all NWW3 data Hemer et al 2007 A tongue of increased H S was observed extending into the Tasman Sea for all of the datasets examined The maximum of this tongue is located 2/3 rds the way from the NSW coast to New Zealand
NSW Wave Buoy Statistics H S (m) Statistics (Shand et al, 2010) Location Mean Median 10% Exc. 1% Exc. Max. Location Depth (m) Distance Offshore (km) Capture Rate (%) Length ( years) Byron Bay 1.66 1.50 2.59 3.93 7.64 Byron Bay 62 6.0 73.1 33.2 Coffs Harbour 1.58 1.43 2.44 3.85 7.37 Coffs Harbour 72 12.4 84.7 33.6 Crowdy Head 1.61 1.46 2.48 3.94 7.35 Crowdy Head 79 10.3 85.6 24.3 Sydney 1.63 1.46 2.55 4.19 8.43 Sydney 92 9.5 84.5 22.5 Port Kembla 1.58 1.43 2.47 3.94 8.43 Port Kembla 80 10.4 85.1 35.9 Batemans Bay 1.43 1.30 2.22 3.57 7.19 Batemans Bay 73 5.0 89.7 23.6 Eden 1.64 1.52 2.43 3.93 7.14 Eden 100 12.8 83.5 31.9
Web-Marvl: https://portal.marvl.org.au/
http://polar.ncep.noaa.gov/waves/wavewatch/license.shtml WAVEWATCH III 2009 National Weather Service (NWS), National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, all rights reserved. WAVEWATCH III is a trademark of the NWS. No unauthorized use without permission. N t + x cσ N cθ N Stot [( c + U ) N ] + + = N = E( σ, θ ) g σ θ σ, σ S tot = S in + S wc + S nl 4 + S bot + S brk + S nl3 + S xx NCEP / NWS supported Community model: Current Release version 4.18 New grids, new numeric, new physics Improved computer performance, Improved MPI Performance. 2 way nested rectangular grids, curvilinear grids, (lambert conformal, polar stereographic etc) and unstructured grids (triangular grids). New Physics packages, new Sin, Snl, and Sds source terms available.
WaveWatch III Pacific Ocean Domain
SE Australia Domain
Sydney Buoy: Significant Wave Height
Sydney Buoy : Peak Period
Coffs Harbour Significant Wave height
Coffs Harbour Peak Period
SWAN SWAN is a third-generation wave model, developed at Delft University of Technology, that computes random, short-crested wind-generated waves in coastal regions and inland waters SWAN accounts for the following physics: Wave propagation in time and space, shoaling, refraction due to current and depth, frequency shifting due to currents and non-stationary depth. Wave generation by wind. Three- and four-wave interactions. Whitecapping, bottom friction and depth-induced breaking. Dissipation due to aquatic vegetation, turbulent flow and viscous fluid mud. Wave-induced set-up. Diffraction Propagation from laboratory up to global scales. Transmission through and reflection (specular and diffuse) against obstacles. http://swanmodel.sourceforge.net/
Swan Bathymetry: 2 domains
SWAN Model Parameters
Bathymetry: MARVL.vs. OEH
Swan : Time series: Marvl & OEH
Sydney Buoy: Swan: MARVL- NCEP winds Significant Wave Height Time Series
Sydney Buoy: Swan OEH Significant Wave Height Time Series
Sydney Buoy: SWAN-MARVL-ACCESS Modelled.vs. Observed Wave Height
Sydney Buoy: SWAN-MARVL-NCEP Modelled.vs. Observed Wave Height
Sydney Buoy: SWAN-OEH Modelled.vs. Observed Wave Height
Coffs Harbour buoy: SWAN-MARVL-ACCESS Significant Wave Height Time Series
Coffs Harbour buoy: SWAN-MARVL-NCEP Significant Wave Height Time Series
Coffs Harbour buoy: SWAN-OEH Significant Wave Height Time Series
Coffs Harbour buoy: HF-RADAR Significant Wave Height Time Series
Coffs SWAN MARVL (ACCESS / NCEP) Observed.vs. Modelled Wave Height
Coffs SWAN-OEH / HF-RADAR Observed.vs. Modelled Wave Height
Coffs Harbour BIAS / RMSE.vs. Height
Conclusions. Not Enough Wave Data collected in Australian waters. No national buoy storage facility: (IMOS?) Web_Marvl : great new way of helping researchers get the data to run models. Still need to know what you are doing. SWAN & WWIII available in Web Marvl. SWAN & WWIII source codes freely available. Both do well forecasting waves, and work best combined when looking in shallow coastal zones.