Sliding Door Replacement Installation Instructions Please make sure you have: Fixed 1 - Operating (X) Panel (Glazing Bead Inside, Roller Adjustment Holes Outside) 1 - Fixed (O) Panel (For 3-Panel doors, there are 2 fixed panels!) 1 - Patio Door Screen Carton 1 - Patio Door Main Frame Carton OX XO Rough Opening Size Finished Tip-to-Tip Operating Operatin g As viewed from outside Fixed 5'0" x 6'8" 6'0" x 6'8" 8'0" x 6'8" 9'0" x 6'8" 12'0" x 6'8" 58 7/8" x 79 1/2" 70 7/8" x 79 1/2" 94 7/8" x 79 1/2" 107 7/16" x 79 1/2" 143 7/16" x 79 1/2" Step 1 Pre-Installation Check (before beginning tear-out) Confirm that the replacement door is handed correctly, and is the right size and color. Check the color of the screen. Check the contents of the Main Frame Carton. Identify: A 1 - Head -- Make sure the top hung screen adapter, the roller track, and the bumper are pre-installed and the rollers are tightly attached B 1 - Sill -- Consists of PVC sill, aluminum screen track, aluminum threshold, fixed panel shim, and stainless steel roller cap (all pre-assembled) C 2 - Jambs (1 Left & 1 Right) D 2 - Interlocks (1 Interior & 1 Exterior) E 1 - Screw Hole Cover for Exterior Interlock F 3 - Jamb Pocket Covers (1 Interior, 1 Exterior, & 1 Head) 1 - Box containing Handle Hardware G 1 - Installation and Assembly Screw Package 2 - Mini-Blind Cords & Tensioners (only for optional mini-blinds) For 3-Panel doors, you will also have 1 exterior astragal post and 1 interior astragal post (illustrations inside).
Step 2 Remove the existing door & Prepare the opening 1 Repair loose or rotted boards. 2 It s most important that the sill is flat & level. Step 3 Patio Door Mainframe Assembly 1 Locate 20 frame assembly screws - #10 x 2". 2 Lay out the four frame parts, interior face down, on a flat, clean surface. Gasket seals are factory-applied to the head & sill. 3 Important: Silicone the ends of each frame member at joint to ensure adequate water protection. 4 Line up the screw holes in the head & sill with the jambs and fasten together with the 20 - #10 x 2" screws. Note: If you are installing an optional vent latch, attach the keeper to the sill before installing the frame. See Step 12. If you are installing a two-panel door, skip Step 3A and proceed to Step 4. Step 3A Three-Panel Mainframe Assembly Photo 1A Photo 2A Insert the interior astragal post into the assembled mainframe. Attach it with 8 - #10 x 2" screws. (Photos 1A & 2A)The mainframe is now ready for installation. Cross-Section of Interior Astragal Post Step 4 Mainframe Installation Each jamb requires 3-4 installation screws. The installation screwholes are not drilled in the jamb, as you could locate the installation screws through either the interior or exterior channel of the jamb. If you do not want to install the installation screws in the outside channel, you can remove some of the short screws that hold the striker into the jamb and screw long installation screws in their place. 1. Apply (2) 3/8 beads of sealant along the sill opening and continue them up both jambs at least 6 and apply shims where necessary. (The sill should never angle towards the interior of the home and lay on both lines of sealant) A sill pan is suggested for every installation application but is optional for replacement application. *Creating a sill pan The pan should have at least 2 end dams and a ½ back dam and 1 downward front leg. This can be created using a preformed pan, self-adhesive flashing tape, or a combination of both. (If using multiple materials for the creation of the sill pan be aware that all items need to be place in a water boarding fashion one overlapping the other for easy water drainage). In some occasions it may be necessary to apply a bead of sealant along the back side of the 1 downward leg on the sill pan prior to installation. Press the sill pan into the sealant. Check for level, plumb and square If this is a New Construction Installation Follow the Flashing instruction on the last page of this pamphlet. Photo # Photo #2 2. Set the frame into the opening and install it with the 8 - #8 x 2 1/2" pan head screws. (Photos #1 & 2) Note: Pre-drill an 1/8" pilot hole, then drill a 3/8" diameter hole through the interior wall to allow the installation screws to be covered by a screw hole plug. Even though the installation holes and screws are covered by the snap-in pocket covers, it is necessary to snap in the screw hole plugs to minimize possibility of air and wind noise.
Step 4 Mainframe Installation (Continued) Photo #3 3. It is recommended that 1-2 screws be run into the head through the outer channel of the frame into the home. (Photo #3) Photo #4 Photo #5 4. Use shims to square up the frame and make the diagonal corner-to-corner measurements equal. (Photos #4& 5) 5. Seal around the roller track support where it meets the operating jamb. If you are installing a two-panel door, skip Step 5A and proceed to Step 5. Step 5A Three-Panel Fixed Panel Installation Photo 3A 1 Lift the fixed panel up & into the head pocket (Photo 3A), swing the bottom in, and set it down onto the fixed panel shim. Note: The fixed panel can be installed from either the inside or outside. Also, there are 2 fixed panels with a 3-panel door. Make certain the weeps are to the bottom and the wide stile goes into the jamb. 2 Slide the fixed panel completely into the jamb pocket. (Photo 4A) Photo 4A Photo 5A 3 Secure the fixed panel to the mainframe using 3 - #8 x 1 1/4" security screws. (Photo 5A) Cross-Section of Exterior Astragal Post Photo 6A Photo 7A 4 Insert the exterior astragal post, positioning the head end first, and taking care to line up the notches on the sill end with the sill track. (Photos 6A & 7A) 5 Use a mallet to firmly tap the bottom into its final position. (Photo 8A) Photo 8A
Step 5A Three-Panel Fixed Panel Installation (Continued) Photo 9A Photo 10A 6 Fasten the exterior astragal post to the fixed panel using the 5-2 1/2" installation screws in the 5 pre-drilled holes. (Photo 9A) Note: Make sure not to overtighten the screws. 7 Fasten the exterior astragal post to the interior astragal post using the 6 - #8 x 1 1/4" security screws in the 6 pre-drilled holes. (Photo 10A) Note: Make sure not to overtighten the screws. 8 Apply a bead of silicone around the bottom of the pocket in the exterior astragal post. Photo 11A 9 Install the jamb pocket cover. (Photo 11A) You can now resume installing the patio door like a two-panel door, following the remaining steps, including Step 5. Step 5 Two-Panel Fixed Panel Installation Photo #7 Photo #9 Photo #11 1 Lift the fixed panel up & into the head pocket (Photo #7), swing the bottom in, and set it down onto the fixed panel shim. Note: The fixed panel can be installed from either the inside or outside. 2 See that the panel is sitting level on the shim and snap the exterior interlock into the panel. The angled side of the interlock is the bottom. (Photo #8) 3 Screw the interlock to the fixed panel. Use the 5 #6 x 3/4" flat-head screws. (Photo #9) 4 Snap the filler strip in the channel to cover the interlock screws. (Photo #10) Note: Use a hammer and wood block (to avoid marring) to snap in the filler strip. 5 Slide the panel along the shim completely into the jamb pocket. Photo #8 Photo #10 CAUTION: Do not install screws to fixed panel (next, step 6) until the operating panel is installed and locked. 6 Secure the fixed panel into place by putting the 3 #8 x 1 1/4" screws through the jamb center leg and into the fixed panel. (Photo #11) These holes will be covered when the pocket cover is snapped in.
Step 6 Screen Installation 1 Before setting the screen in the top hung track, apply tension on the rollers (pry on the roller leaf spring) at the bottom of the screen door that goes along the guide track to eliminate the possibility of the screen slipping off the lower guide track. (Photo #14) Note: There may be a plastic bag of parts in the patio door screen box which is not Photo #14 required in the installation. Photo #15 Pry up the guide roller for added tension. Step 7 Photo #12 2 Insert the screen into the roller track in the head. 3 Carefully snap lower guide rollers over the track of the sill. 4 Attach the screen through the pre-drilled slots in the roller track with the supplied screws which go right into a bushing in the screen frame. Then adjust the height for a free & easy rolling screen. (Photo #15) CAUTION: It is necessary to completely adjust the height and operation of the screen before installing the operating panel; otherwise, the top screen adjustment screw is difficult to access unless you have an offset Phillips screw driver Operating Panel Installation 1 From the inside, lift the operating panel up & into the head pocket - swing the bottom in - set it down onto the stainless steel roller track. (Photo #12) 2 Check the leading edge of the operating panel to frame for perfect sight line. 3 If necessary, adjust rollers by using a phillips screwdriver through the access holes in the exterior face of the bottom sash rail. After final adjustment, snap screw hole plugs in roller access holes. Note: Initially, after adjusting rollers, door may operate tightly as the operating panel is coming in contact with the gasket that Photo #13 is attached to the sill. After some operation of the door, the gasket on the sill will naturally compress, allowing easier operation of the door while providing a tight seal along the sill. 4 Attach the interior interlock to the operating panel (the interior interlock has the square notch at the bottom to fit over the sill track). Position it so that the short side of the notch is even with the bottom of the sash rail and snap it into the end of the panel. (Photo #13) Note: Interior interlock doesn t require any screws to attach it to the operating panel. Step 8 Attach Interior & Exterior Handle to the Operating Panel Note: Handle assembly instructions are packaged with the handle in a separate box. Photo #17 Photo #16 1 If provided, insert grommit into the two interior holes for assembly screws. (Photo #16) Follow the installation instructions in the handle set box using step 1 first, then step 2 for the trim set with the key cylinder. CAUTION: If you have difficulty removing the key or operating the key lock, rotate the actuator pin 180 and reattach. (Photo #17) Note: To insure proper lock alignment, check that the height of the keeper aligns with the height of the lock openings in the active style. Adjust the height by loosening the screws that attach the keeper to the jamb and sliding the keeper either up or down, or by raising or lowering the operating sash. Note: In order to make the lock operate easily, you may have to shim behind the end keepers. The factory has already installed one shim behind the center keeper. Actuator Pin CAUTION: Slamming the door closed will cause the operating panel to hit the compression seals in the jamb and bounce out, not allowing the door to be properly locked. To easily lock the door, slide and hold the door closed, and turn the thumb knob or the keylock.
Step 9 Snap in Pocket Covers Photo #18 1 Snap in the first pocket cover in the interior channel of the jamb in front of the fixed panel. This covers installation screws as well as the screws that secure the fixed panel in place. (Photo #18) 2 Snap the pocket cover in the exterior channel of the jamb that the operating panel slides into. Note: This pocket cover has the rotating screen latch pre-attached to it. Photo #19 3 Snap the short pocket cover into the head between the jamb and fixed panel, aligning the indicator line to the same line in the jamb. (Photo #19) Step 10 Latching of Screen Door Photo #20 1 Slide the patio door screen closed and, while holding the door closed, rotate the knob into the latch in the face of the screen. (Photo #20) Note: Shims have been pre-installed behind the screen knob. Adjust as necessary. For Doors with Optional Mini-Blinds: Step 11A Cord & Tensioner Attachment: Sizes > 74" x 81 1 /2"* CAUTION: There is double-sided tape on the back of the magnet operator for the mini-blinds. Once the tape is removed and the magnet is attached to the door, it cannot be adjusted. Make sure to follow these procedures to insure proper alignment: Photo #21 1 Position the external magnet after carefully cleaning the glass area where it will be placed. For proper operation, the external magnet must be perfectly interfaced with the internal one. Therefore, before removing the adhesive protecting film, position the external magnet on the glass next to the internal one. Verify smooth raising and lowering of the blind. Then remove the film and position the external magnet on the glass following the magnetic attraction. (Photo #21) Photo #22 2 Position the cord tensioner, keeping the cord in tension. The operator tip on the cord tensioner should be positioned at approximately the line on the tensioner or slightly higher to keep the cord engaged. Excessive tension on the loop will hinder cord movement. (Photo #22) Note: Pulling the cord on the right side lowers the blind, while pulling the cord on the left side raises the blind. Small adjustments by pulling on the right and left side of the cord will enable optimum slat positioning. Close-up of Cord Tensioner Close-up of External Magnet & Cord *White blinds may come cordless; see step 11B. All other colors will be corded.
Step 11B Cordless Side-Slide Lift and Tilt Operator: Sizes < 74" x 81 1 /2" Photo A Photo B If you are installing a door smaller than or equal to 74" x 81 1/2", you may be installing a door with a Cordless Side-Slide Lift and Tilt Operator. Photo A is of the Lift Operator (on side), and Photo B is of the Tilt Operator (on top). Note: These operators are factory installed. For Doors with Optional Vent Latch: Step 12 Vent Latch & Keeper Attachment Note: If you are installing an optional vent latch, attach the keeper to the sill BEFORE installing the frame. Note: Attach the vent latch AFTER the door is completely installed and any adjustments are made. Parts: Latch, Keeper, Latch Locator Template, 4 - #8 x 1 1/4" white-head latch screws, 2 - #8 x 1 1/4" brown-head keeper screws. Photo #23 Photo #24 1 Attach the keeper to the sill with the 2 #8 x 1 1/4" keeper screws. (Photos #23 & #24) Photo #25 2 Align the locator template with the bottom corner of the operating panel and tape in place. (Photo #25) Note: One side of the template is for XO doors; the other side is for OX doors. Photo #26 Photo #27 3 Position the latch screw holes over the indicator lines so that the extended plunger is centered in the first slot of the keeper and mark the four hole positions. (Photos #26 & #27) Photo #28 Photo #29 4 Pilot drill the holes with a 3/32" bit. (Photo #28) 5 Remove the template and install the latch. (Photo #29)
Frame Package Contents A Head w/ Top Hung Screen Adapter & Roller Track B Sill Jamb - Operating Side Jamb - Fixed Side D Interior/Exterior Interlocks C Jambs E Interlock Screw Cover G Screw Package contents SCREW HOLE PLUG 10-3/8" Diameter INTERLOCK SCREW 5 - # 6 X 3/4" FIXED-PANEL SECURITY SCREW 3 - # 8 X 1 1/4" FRAME ASSEMBLY SCREW 20 - # 10 X 2" INSTALLATION SCREW 10 - # 8 X 2 1/2" F Interior/Exterior/Head Pocket Covers extra Screw Package for 3-Panel DoorS FIXED-PANEL SECURITY SCREW 6 - # 8 X 1 1/4" FRAME ASSEMBLY SCREW 8 - # 10 X 2" INSTALLATION SCREW 5 - # 8 X 2 1/2"
New Construction With/Without Sheathing: With Sheathing: Step One: Rough Opening (RO) Prep Check opening for level, plumb and square. Note any discrepancies for proper shimming in later steps, or if possible, adjust rough opening to create a level, plumb and square opening. The exterior surface of the home should already have a weather barrier such as but not limited to Tyvek, TYPAR, or PINKWRAP. At the opening, create a modified I cut running from the top middle portion of the opening running down the middle (fig.1-1 Steps 1 ) Cut along the top or head of the opening. (fig 1-1 Step 2) Cut along the bottom of the opening to create two flaps. (Fig. 1-1 Step 3) Fold the wrap toward the interior of the home and staple along the rough framing. Cut any excess house wrap off. At the top left corner of the opening, come up 9 and out away from the opening 9 and make a mark. Repeat this step for the right side. From each of the corners using a utility knife, cut from the created mark down to the top corner of the rough opening. From the left mark, cut down to the upper left of the rough opening. From the right mark, cut to the upper right corner of the rough opening. This will create a flap at the top of the opening Fold the flap up and temporarily tape.(fig. 1-1 Fold line) Below is the formula to determine the flashing tape lengths: Sill is RO width + 18 Jamb is RO width + 17 Head is RO width + 20
Cut the self-adhesive flashing tape to size using the formula provided above. If 9 flash tape is not being used, formulas will need to be adjusted. 9 is the minimum width permitted. At the bottom left corner of the opening, come down 9 and out 9 ; mark this spot and repeat for the bottom right corner. Apply your precut sill flashing tape starting at the one of the predetermined spots made in the previous step and end at the other pre-marked spot. The flashing tape should touch both marks and reach up to the outside bottom of the rough opening. (fig. 1-2) Use a hand roller to ensure a smooth even application of the flashing tape. Using a single piece of self-adhesive flashing tape, make a sill pan with end dams (sides) that run up the Rough framing jamb at least 6 and fold over on to the face of the rough opening and extend outward from the rough opening at least 2. (Figure 1-3 and 1-4) Next, set your level on the sill of the rough opening and shim accordingly.
Step Two: Door installation If applicable, apply loose nail fin flange to the head and jambs of the door frame. (Fig. 0-2) To apply, press nail fin into the accessory groove located on the frame 1 back from the exterior face of the door frame. At each corner on the back side of the nail fin, (side closer to the interior of the door) apply the Sunrise Window supplied chevrons connecting each corner. Apply a 3/8 thick bead of sealant across the enter perimeter of the nail flange/j-channel nail flange following along the same line as nailing flange holes. Set the door in place tilting it so that the bottom of the unit is set in place first with the head of the unit tilted in afterwards. Make sure the door is centered in the rough opening. Press the nailing flange against the sheathing to create a seal good seal between the seething and nail fin. (Squeeze out of the sealant should present around the entire perimeter of the unit) Check for level, plumb and square. Shim around the door placing shims staring 4-6 up from the each of the corner. Each jamb side and the head should have at least three sets of shims. (fig. 2-1) Starting at the top of the left jamb side, loosely install one mounting fastener. (tighten after final adjustments have been completed) Check for level, plumb and square. Apply a fastener at the bottom right jamb nail flange. Check for level, plumb and square. Adjust if necessary. Apply fasteners to the remaining nail flange holes occasionally checking for level, plumb and square. Place a 3/8 thick bead of sealant around the door unit in a U shape. Each leg of the U should extent up past the head of the door unit up approximately 8.5 Fig. 2-1
Apply the left side and right side flashing tape. Each piece should extend 8.5 above the head of the door and set 1/2 above the bottom of the sill flashing tape. (Fig. 2-2) Use a hand roller to press the flashing into the previously applied sealant making sure that the flashing tape has a smooth even application. Apply a 3/8 thick bead of sealant across the top of the nail flange following along the line of nail flange hole overlapping the jamb side flashing tape to the end of the nail flange on both sides. Apply flashing tape to the head of the unit. The flashing tape should overlap the left and right jamb flashing by 1. Using a hand roller, press the flashing tape into the previously applied sealant while make sure that the flashing tape is smooth and evenly applied. Lower the house wrap flap that was previously taped in the upward position and apply house wrap tape along the diagonal cut lines. Fig. (2-2) Fig. 2-3 Step Three: Interior Finishing Secure the door using the provided installation screws (Fig.2-1) At the bottom left shim, drill a 3/8 hole into the exterior jamb pocket and install one 2 ½ pan head screw loosely. Follow this up with a screw at the top right jamb shim making sure to predrill a 3/8 hole. Do not fully tighten this screw. Install a screw in each shim point on the left and right jambs. Predrill, 4 up/down, Apply at least one screw into exterior pocket of the frame head at the or near the center predrilling a 3/8 hole prior to the installation of the screw. Check level, plumb and square. Using low expansion foam, insulate around the interior of the door unit making sure to follow the manufacturer s instruction on proper usage. Loose insulation can be substituted for low expansion foam. Finish as desired.
New Construction material diagrams:
Installation without Sheathing: Step One: Rough Opening (RO) Prep Check opening for level, plumb and square. Note any discrepancies for proper shimming in later steps, or if possible, adjust rough opening to create a level, plumb and square opening. Pre-cut your flashing tape using the following formulas: Sill: RO width + (2 x tape width) Jamb: RO height + (2 x tape width) - 1 Fig. 1-1 Head: RO width + (2 x tape width) + 2 Using a staple gun, attach the sill flashing to the sill of the rough framing leaving 9 on both the left and right side of the rough opening. Only staple along the top portion of the flashing only at the sill of the rough opening leaving the bottom and side section open. (Fig. 1-1) All staples should be between 12-16 apart. Using a single piece of self-adhesive flashing tape, make a sill pan with end dams (sides) that run up the Rough framing jamb at least 6 and fold over on to the face of the rough opening and extend outward from the rough opening at least 2 (Fig.1-3) Fig. 1-2
Step Two: Installing the door Check the sill for level once again and shim if necessary. If applicable, apply loose nail fin flange to all four sides of the door frame. To apply, press nail fin into the accessory groove located on the frame 1 back from the exterior face of the door. At each corner on the back side of the nail fin, (side closer to the interior of the door) use a piece of self-adhesive flashing tape in the shape of an L to connect the nail fins at each top corner. Using a 3/8 bead of silicone sealant, apply a line of sealant along the nailing flange/j-channel nail flange holes around the head and jambs of the door. An optional bead of sealant can be placed along the rough framing where the flange will be in contact with the rough framing. Set the door in place by tilting it so that the bottom of the unit is set in place first with the head of the unit tilted in afterwards. Press the nailing flange against the sheathing to create a bond with the sealant. There should be squeeze out present around the entire perimeter of the flange. Place a fastener on the top of the right jamb nail flange making sure not to fully tighten the fastener leaving room for further adjustment. (Tighten after final adjustments have been made) Shim around the door placing shims starting 4-6 up from the each of the corner. Each jamb side and the head should have at least three sets of shims. (fig. 2-1) Check level, plumb and square. Apply fasteners to the remaining nail flange holes occasionally checking for level, plumb and square.
Step Three: Finishing exterior flashing Apply a 3/8 bead of silicone sealant along the left and right jamb nail flange holes continuing up the 8½ above the head of the window on both sides. Apply the left and right jamb flashing extending 8 ½ above the head of the window unit on both sides. The jamb flashing should sit on top of the sill flashing and NOT extend past it on the bottom. (fig. 3-1) Press the jamb flashing into the sealant. Using a staple gun attach the flashing to the rough framing making sure not to staple on the nail flange of the window unit or below the sill of the rough opening. (fig. 3-1) Repeat the steps on the opposite jamb. Apply a bead of sealant across the head where the nail flange holes are placed and a second bead of sealant horizontally 8 ½ above the head of the window. Place head flashing at the top of the window pressing it into the sealant. The head flashing should extend out past the both jamb flashing pieces by a least a ½. (Fig. 3-2) A water resistant barrier should then be installed. Fig. 3-1 Fig. 3-2 Step Four: Water resistant barrier The barrier should be installed in water board fashion. The water board method starts by placing the bottom section on first and each additional layer should overlap the previous layer. The first layer of the water resistant barrier should be set under the loose section of the sill flashing. Each following section of water resistant barrier should be placed over top of the previous. This can be done by someone other than the window installer.
Step Five: Finishing Interior Secure the door using the provided installation screws. (Fig.2-1) At the bottom left shim, drill a 3/8 hole into the exterior jamb pocket and install one 2 ½ pan head screw loosely. Follow this up with a screw at the top right jamb shim making sure to predrill a 3/8 hole. Do not fully tighten this screw. Install a screw in each shim point on the left and right jambs. Predrill 4 up/down. Apply at least one screw into exterior pocket of the frame head at the or near the center predrilling a 3/8 hole prior to the installation of the screw. Check level, plumb and square. Using low expansion foam, insulate around the interior of the door unit making sure to follow the manufacturer s instruction on proper usage. Loose insulation can be substituted for low expansion foam Finish as desired. Water Barrier Step NOTE: There are many variations of install that may be encountered when replacing windows. One conventional installation is described in these instructions. For questions on appropriate installation procedures, refer to your GENERAL CONTRACTOR, LOCAL and STATE BUILDING CODES, ARCHITECTURAL SPECIFICATIONS, and ASTM E2112.