Portugal - The Azores

Naturetrek Tour Report 7-16 July 2006 Mount Pico Sete Cidades Sperm Whale Natural Pools Images and report compiled by Gerald Broddelez Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: info@naturetrek.co.uk W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Portugal - The Azores Tour leader: Gerald Broddelez Local guides: Maria (Sao Miguel) Mario (Terceira) Lucia (Faial and Pico) Tour participants: David Wheelock Donna Fuchsluger Nigel Logan Margaret Logan Cherie Wilcox Mark Bennet Sally Bennet Louise Kelly Greg Mallender Day 1 Friday 7th July London Lisbon Sao Miguel Ponta Delgada We departed in the morning from London Heathrow on an Air Portugal flight to Sao Miguel in the Azores, changing at Lisbon. We were met at Sao Miguel by our local guide, Maria, who stayed with us for the remainder of our stay on the island. After a short drive, we arrived at our hotel in Ponta Delgada s attractive centre. During dinner we discussed the plans for tomorrow. Day 2 Saturday 8th July Sao Miguel: Ponta Delgada Sierra de Tronqeira Furnas Weather details: warm, overcast with sunny periods Today we planned to visit the eastern half of the island, home to the only endemic bird of the Azores, the Priolo or Azorean Bullfinch. Our route took us along the rocky north coast through small villages. The road was quite amazing with wonderful views. All along the road were flowering plants. In addition to hydrangeas and agapanthus there were some rhododendrons with a few flowers on and some Crinum moorei in flower. Once we arrived at Povoacao we stopped for a quick comfort break and then took the dirt road to the Serra Tronquera. At the turnoff, we walked along a side road, in search of the elusive Bullfinch. We easily found good numbers of Blackcap, Atlantic Canary and Chaffinch but no Bullfinch at first until we heard a single bird calling. Then after a short wait two birds sat right out in the open for a few minutes allowing us to compare the male and female and giving scope views of one of the world s rarest birds! With the main quest under our belt we Naturetrek September 06 1

Tour Report drove to one of the lookouts and ate our picnic lunch in the company of some of the locals that had come out for a BBQ. After a great picnic and admiring the views, the bus took us down to Furnas where we visited the hot springs in the town. Some members of the group tried the cold spring water but no one was tempted to eat the sweet corn, which is cooked in the springs. A stop at Terra Nostra Park on the way back to Ponta Delgada was made to check for birds and a swim in the natural pools. Back in town, many of us went down to the sea front to watch the Festival which involves each of the local chapels participating. Each chapel would start with its name and then its flag. Then a wooden cart beautifully decorated with flowers came along towed by a pair of bullocks. The noise from the cart was quite loud as even the axles and bearings appeared to be made of wood. This would then be followed by a float symbolising the provision of food and then dancers. Invertebrates: Large White, Clouded Yellow, Red Admiral, Painted Lady Birds: Common Buzzard, Atlantic Canary, Azores Bullfinch, Greenfinch Mammals: European Rabbit Day 3 Sunday 9th July Sao Miguel: Ponta Delgada Sete Cidades Mosteiros Weather details: warm and sunny After a good breakfast we were off to the north-east side of the island. Everyone was admiring the vast banks of blue hydrangeas on the roadside. Our first stop was at the viewpoint Pico do Corvao, where we had a good introduction to the wildlife of the Azores. Along the roadside we found many different plant species, including agapanthus which were flowering by the thousand, and our first birds, the Common Buzzard and Grey Wagtail (both of them Azorean subspecies). It was only a short drive to Lago Canario where we made a short walk to the edge of the crater seeing the lakes below us. Next we stopped at the viewpoint at Vista de Rei (named after the King s visit in 1901). Here we had a wonderful view over the twin crater lakes of Sete Cidades. These are famous for being blue and green (one of each colour), but because of the many algae in the water they both now look brownish green. Canaries and the local form of Blackcap were singing all around us while we took in the view. We then made a short walk along the lakeshore of Lago Azul adding an unexpected Purple Heron walking along the lake s edge, the rare Coot in the company of a single Moorhen, several plants, including the New Zealand Christmas tree, butterflies and frogs to the list. We ate our picnic lunch near the lake,where we watched a single Grey Heron. 2 Naturetrek September 06

Tour Report On the way back to Ponta Delgada, we stopped for a swim at the natural pools near Mosteiros. A short seawatch produced a few distant Cory s Shearwaters and a couple of Whimbrel and Turnstones on the rocks. Later in the evening there was a spectacular firework display on the waterfront. Butterflies: Long-tailed Blue, Clouded Yellow, Red Admiral Birds: Coot, Purple Heron, Grey Heron, Canary, Common Buzzard Others: Marsh Frog, Wall Lizard, Freshwater Crayfish Day 4 Monday 10th July Sao Miguel Terceira Angra Monte Brasil Serra do Cume Cabo de Praia Praia da Vitoria Angra Weather details: sunny Today we had an early breakfast, followed by a 40-minute flight to the island of Terceira. Mario, our most impressive local guide, was waiting to take us to the Angra Hotel in the centre of Angra do Heroismo, which was our base for the next two nights. Fortunately we were able to settle into our rooms as soon as we arrived and we had a little time to explore the lovely surroundings in the town and freshen up before setting off for Monte Brasil, a crater with a superb view across the town. Mario gave us a good introduction to the history of the city, which is a world heritage site. On our way back from the crater we passed the impressive Spanish fort built in the sixteenth century to protect the island against pirates. Mario explained also about the brotherhood of the Holy Spirit, in particular, about its 91 chapels. They are all different and we were lucky enough to be able to visit the one at Sao Sebastiao which was open. It was beautifully decorated with flowers and, as the church was nearby, this was also visited by the group. Before driving for lunch, we went to the spectacular viewpoint at Serra do Cume. Here we found five Little Egrets in a wetland and several Quail were heard. We saw a large part of the island including the airport (which includes a large American Air Base) below us. Lunch today was at a local restaurant in an old watermill, Os Moinhos at Vila de Sao Sebastiao. Here we enjoyed vegetable soup and a beef stew cooked in a traditional style, accompanied by a good local red wine, cheese, pie and coffee. It was quite a feast and the wine flowed freely so it was a good that we did not have to do anything too active in the afternoon! From here we continued in our bus to the tide pools at the quarry at Cabo de Praia. There was a lot of new construction going on but fortunately the area of pools was still intact. Water levels were low but we still managed to see some good birds. Best were undoubtedly the Turnstones in summer plumage, Kentish Plover, Grey Plover and Black-tailed Godwit. Naturetrek September 06 3

Tour Report A short ride then took us to the town of Praia where we walked along the pretty main street to the new marina via a small market. The scenic coastal road then took us back to Angra. Some of us explored the town and the interesting botanical park just outside the hotel before dinner. After dinner, some of us went to the roof terrace to see bats and shearwaters flying in the twilight and have a look at the stars. Birds: Little Egret, Grey Heron, Kentish and Grey Plover, Turnstone, Black-tailed Godwit, Quail Reptiles: Wall Lizard Invertebrates: Clouded Yellow, Large White, Ruddy Darter Mammals: Azores Noctule Day 5 Tuesday 11th July Terceira: Angra Serreta Biscoitos Vila Nova Pico Alto Algar do Carvao Weather details: overcast with some sunny spells Our first stop today was at the harbour of Mateus da Calheta, where we saw fishermen bringing their catch ashore. We searched among the Yellow-legged Gulls, for any other gull, along the harbour walls and among the Common Terns for any Roseate Terns but could not find any. In the old whaling boathouse we could see the long boat used in the old days for whaling. We then paid a short visit to one of the local cheese factories to sample three tasty varieties of cheese, before driving on along the west coast stopping at a wine farm. Here we had a look in the small museum and tasted some of the dry local white wine. We then had a look at the natural rock pools, and soon some of us were enjoying a dip. Next, we drove up to the Pico Alto mountain where we had our picnic lunch. While we were enjoying the wine and rolls provided by the hotel, a Noctule bat flew over and Grey Wagtails were seen. We then decided to walk along the dirt road for an hour in search of some of the endemic plants. The botanists added several plant species to the growing list including Lobelia urens and Erica azorica while the birders had good looks at the local endemic subspecies of Goldcrest. We then boarded the bus again and a short ride took us to the Algar do Carvao, a spectacular lava cave into which we were able to descend. The inside of the cave is awe inspiring, with stalactites and stalagmites and interesting rock formations. The local guide explained how the cave was formed and we spent some time exploring it. After dinner, some of us went to the roof terrace to see bats flying in the twilight and another look at the stars and the moon. 4 Naturetrek September 06

Tour Report We were surprised to find a rare single Long-eared Owl and several large Greater Mouse-eared Bats flying low overhead at high speed joined by several Cory s Shearwaters, some of which were even trying to land in the middle of town!! Birds: Quail, Cory s Shearwater, Long-eared Owl Invetebrates: Azores Grayling Mammals: Noctule Bat, Greater Mouse-eared Bat Day 6 Wednesday 12th July Terceira Faial Weather details: warm, sunny, windy!! After breakfast we drove to the airport for our flight to Faial. After a smooth check-in we took the 40-minute flight to Faial and those of us sitting on the left side of the aeroplane where able to see the top of Mt Pico above the clouds. After freshening up, a quick swim for some and lunch at a local restaurant, we went on our afternoon excursion accompanied by our local guide, Super Mario. We spend the afternoon in the northern part of the island. Our first stop was at the Mirador Sra do Conceicao. Here we had a great view over the Flanders valley and saw the typical Azorean windmills. The rest of the afternoon was spent at the Caldeira. The weather was fantastic during the whole walk and allowed for great views of the crater and all the way to Mt Pico!! Our circumnavigation of the crater took us around three hours and was a great walk, although a little rough under foot and steep in places but with excellent views. We saw several rare Azorean Grayling of the Faial variety, together with the Goldcrest which is different to the one found on Sao Miguel, and added several endemic plants including Lysimachia azorica and Vaccinium cylandraceum to the growing list. Towards the end great views of several Red Admirals and Painted Lady were had by all. It was an afternoon that most of us will not easily forget! We returned to our hotel in Horta, with time to explore the town a little and try out the swimming pool. After dinner some of us decided to have a drink at Peter s café, which is a famous meeting place for local sailors and the yachting community. Those of us who sampled the gin and tonics agreed that they were among the best we had ever tasted. It was very pleasant to sit on the wall above the harbour in the warm evening air, chatting to old and new friends. Invertebrates: Azores Grayling, Red Admiral, Painted Lady Birds: Goldcrest, Grey Wagtail Drink: Gin and Tonic Amphibians and reptiles: Wall Lizard Naturetrek September 06 5

Tour Report Day 7 Thursday 13th July Faial Weather details: sunny and humid The morning was spent whale watching. It took a while before we were finally underway but eventually we left the harbour in our boat and went full ahead towards the open sea. There was hardly any wind, so the sea was very calm. We soon found groups of Cory s Shearwaters but there was no sign of any whales. Still we soon saw Bottlenose Dolphins which accompanied the boat for some time allowing excellent views and ample photo opportunities. The skipper had seen a blow in the distance so off we went at full speed. Unfortunately we could not relocate the whale when we arrived at the right spot but had great views of ever playful Common Dolphins. We then went back to town for lunch in a local restaurant. After lunch most of us went for a walk up the 145m high Monte de Guia. Here we saw several Buzzards, many Blackcaps and some new plants including Ipomea imperati and Pancraticum maritimum. Once at the top of the collapsed caldera we had great views of the bay and found several Grey Herons at a small pool in the caldera below us. Birds: Cory s Shearwater, Grey Heron Mammals: Common Dolphin, Bottlenose Dolphin Amphibians and reptiles: Wall Lizard Day 8 Friday 14th July Faial Pico Weather details: sunny, overcast We took the ferry to Pico this morning for a full day s visit of the island. Our driver met us with the bus and we were soon on our way. Our first stop took us to the famous vine fields on the island. We made a short visit to one of the oldest winehouses where we could taste some of the famous white Pico Verdelho wine as well as a sweet raspberry liqueur. For our picnic lunch we drove to the town of Lajes. Here we walked along the concrete wall along the seafront in search of the Roseate Tern. We found good numbers of Common Tern, several Turnstones and a single Grey Plover but no Roseate Terns! We then visited the Whalers museum watching the film about the whaling and seeing the exhibition of scrimshaw. We then drove across the island to the east coast and made a short stop at a small mountain lake from were we had great views of the east coast, closely watched by a group of tame Muscovy duck. 6 Naturetrek September 06

Tour Report Next stop was at the old whaling factory that was still working until about 20 years ago. Here ice creams were purchased by some. After this we drove on to Sao Roque where we stopped at a Common Tern colony. Most had already fully grown young, although they were still expecting to be fed, and we could see their parents fly by with their beaks loaded with fish. We tried hard to locate any nesting Roseate Terns but had to be content with a flyby only. From here it was only a short ride back to Magdalena and the ferry to Faial. Birds: Roseate Tern, Whimbrel, Turnstone Amphibians and Reptiles: Wall Lizard Day 9 Saturday 15th July Faial Weather details: overcast with sunny spells We spent most of the morning visiting the dramatic scenery at Capelhinos. Here we could see the new land in front of us, formed by the volcanic eruption of 1957, and the old lighthouse that was partly submerged by volcanic ash. We walked down to sea level to see the Tern colony on the shoreline, where there were many Common Terns and a single Roseate Tern. Some then walked to the other side to see the caves and strata formed by the volcanic activity and ash deposits: a spectacular and strange sight, like walking on the moon, whereas the others walked all the way to the top of the volcano and had great views of the newly formed land. After our picnic lunch taken along the seafront, we went on our second whale watching trip. Soon we were on our way this time we went south-west towards Pico. The weather was sunny and there was hardly any wind, so conditions were pretty smooth. Dolphins were spotted and we had excellent views of a small pod of Bottlenose Dolphins, who played all around the boat and swam with us for quite a while. We then proceeded into deeper water and soon came the call whales ahead. Soon we had a Sperm Whale closeby followed by another in the distance. We waited for a while until suddenly one came up just ahead of the boat, followed by another, followed by another, followed by another.until no less then 6-8 male Sperm Whales were seen lying on the surface at close range!!! What an incredible sight. We spent some time with them until it was sadly time to leave. It was a great spectacle watching these playful animals from so close and for so long and a nice ending to another fantastic afternoon. We took our final dinner in the hotel before making our last visit to Peter s to celebrate the afternoons success! Birds: Cory s Shearwater Mammals: Bottlenose Dolphin, Sperm Whale Naturetrek September 06 7

Tour Report Invertebrates: Portuguese man-of-war Day 10 Sunday 16th July Faial Lisbon London Weather details: sunny For the last time in the holiday, at breakfast time, we could see the whole of the Pico island including Mt Pico itself (this for the 4th day in a row!!!!). It was a fine morning which we had free to take a final look at the lovely town and harbour before setting off for the airport. Here we took the Air Portugal flight bound for London with a change of planes in Lisbon. We arrived home tired but happy, our heads full of the natural beauty of the islands with their plants, dolphins, birds, beautiful landscapes and the endless blue of the Atlantic ocean. Obrigado Azores! We are all in the gutter but some of us are looking at the stars (Oscar Wilde 1852-1900) 8 Naturetrek September 06

Azores NT06 birds Date Site Count Ages Notes Cory's Shearwater [sp] (Calonectris diomedea) Grey Heron [sp] (Ardea cinerea) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 7 Purple Heron [sp] (Ardea purpurea) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 1 a single bird at Sete Cidades was an unexpected find!a straggler in the Azores! Little Egret [sp] (Egretta garzetta) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 5 together in a marshy spot on Terceira! Another rare bird in the Islands! Mallard [sp] (Anas platyrhynchos) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 8 Common Buzzard [sp] (Buteo buteo) Common Quail (Coturnix coturnix) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 Scarce Heard only on terceira. Common Moorhen [sp] (Gallinula chloropus) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 1 Common Coot [sp] (Fulica atra) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 1 Grey Plover (Pluvialis squatarola) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 2 Kentish Plover [sp] (Charadrius alexandrinus) Common Snipe [sp] (Gallinago gallinago) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 1 24/07/2006 10:42: Page 1 of 3

Date Site Count Ages Notes Black-tailed Godwit [sp] (Limosa limosa) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 2 Whimbrel [sp] (Numenius phaeopus) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 5 Ruddy Turnstone [sp] (Arenaria interpres) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 12 Yellow-legged Gull [sp] (Larus michahellis) Roseate Tern [sp] (Sterna dougallii) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 2 Single birds in flight only, distinctive call! Common Tern [sp] (Sterna hirundo) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 Very Common Feral Pigeon (Columba livia 'feral') Common Wood Pigeon [sp] (Columba palumbus) Northern Long-eared Owl [sp] (Asio otus) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 1 A bird flying over the hotel on Terceira at dusk was unexpected, another NT first for the islands. Grey Wagtail [sp] (Motacilla cinerea) Goldcrest [sp] (Regulus regulus) Common Blackbird [sp] (Turdus merula) Blackcap [sp] (Sylvia atricapilla) European Robin [sp] (Erithacus rubecula) 24/07/2006 10:42: Page 2 of 3

Date Site Count Ages Notes Common Starling [sp] (Sturnus vulgaris) House Sparrow [sp] (Passer domesticus) Chaffinch [sp] (Fringilla coelebs) European Greenfinch [sp] (Carduelis chloris) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 3 European Goldfinch [sp] (Carduelis carduelis) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 5 Island Canary (Serinus canaria) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 Scarce Azores Bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula murina) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 2 A pair gave scope views while feeding in the roadside bushes!the typical call was heard before the birds were seen!- 24/07/2006 10:42: Page 3 of 3

Azores nt06 mammals Date Site Count Ages Notes Large Mouse-eared Bat (Myotis myotis) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 4 Some from the terrace at Terceira! Noctule (Nyctalus noctula) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 Scarce European Rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 2 Sperm Whale (Physeter macrocephalus) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 8 Fantastic sighting off 6-8 animals together in a dead calm sea!!!!! For most the highlight of the trip! Atlantic Bottlenose Dolphin (Tursiops truncatus truncatus) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 25 Incredible looks as they swam next and under the boat and performed some of there typical "flipper"tricks! Common Dolphin (Delphinus delphis) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT06 30 Wonderfull looks at these ever playfull mammals! 24/07/2006 11:02: Page 1 of 1

Azores NT06 Butterflies Date Site Count Ages Notes Large White (Pieris brassicae) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT 2006 Common Seen daily in good numbers Clouded Yellow (Colias crocea) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT 2006 Common Long-tailed Blue (Lampides boeticus) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT 2006 2 A single at Sao Miguel and Terceira Red Admiral (Vanessa atalanta) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT 2006 5 Painted Lady (Vanessa cardui) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT 2006 2 Only seen during crater walk Faial Azores Grayling (Hipparchia azorina) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT 2006 2 Seen only during crater walk on Faial 24/07/2006 10:46: Page 1 of 1

Azores NT06 Dragonfly Date Site Count Ages Notes Emperor Dragonfly (Anax imperator) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT 2006 4 Ruddy Darter (Sympetrum sanguineum) 7/07/2006 Azores trip NT 2006 3 24/07/2006 10:44: Page 1 of 1