Costa Rica. Matthew D Firestone Carolina A Miranda, César G Soriano

Costa Rica Matthew D Firestone Carolina A Miranda, César G Soriano

Costa Rica Highlights Few travel destinations have the vast spectrum of stunning landscapes and exotic wildlife offered by Costa Rica, a tiny Central American country lodged between two great oceans. Of course, what Costa Rica lacks in size, it more than makes up for in biodiversity. In one day you can watch the sunrise over the Caribbean, and the sunset over the Pacific. Or spend the morning trekking through the highland cloud forests, and wind down in the afternoon with a cup of shade-grown brew on an organic coffee plantation. This incredible complement of landscapes is also inhabited by some of the planet s most charismatic species, including the scarlet macaw and squirrel monkey in the canopy above, and the jaguar and tapir on the forest floor. 1 LUKE HUNTER MONTEVERDE CLOUD FOREST This iconic cloud forest was first settled by a community of Quakers who sought to protect their invaluable watershed. Home to such rare fauna as the resplendent quetzal, which is the Maya bird of paradise, Monteverde (p191) is partly responsible for Costa Rica s international fame as an ecotourism hot spot. Matthew D Firestone, Lonely Planet Author, USA 02-highlights-cos9.indd 5 28/05/2010 1:11:19 PM

CHRISTOPHER BAKER MANUEL ANTONIO One of the country s original ecotourism destinations, Manuel Antonio (p349) practically put Costa Rica on the map for international jet-setters. While the secret has long been let out, capuchin monkeys bounding across a tropical beach remain an arresting sight. Matthew D Firestone, Lonely Planet Author, USA COREY WISE LA FORTUNA AREA In the shadow of Arenal (p171), one of the most active volcanoes in the world, there s something for everybody including luxurious hotels, romantic restaurants and Tabacón Hot Springs (p159), man s recreation of the Garden of Eden. César G Soriano, Lonely Planet Author, USA 02-highlights-cos9.indd 6 28/05/2010 1:11:24 PM

PARQUE NACIONAL CORCOVADO Costa Rica s ultimate outdoor experience is anything but a walk in the park. With the proper gear, ample supplies and a healthy appetite for adventure, Corcovado (p421) is where you can leave behind the tourist crowds and lose yourself in the wilds. Matthew D Firestone, Lonely Planet Author, USA JOHNNY HAGLUND AKER COREY WISE MONTEZUMA A laid-back, budget beach town (p298) with a hippie vibe (locals call it Montefuma ), beautiful beaches, a chill atmosphere and great restaurants. It s the perfect base for exploring the southern part of the Península de Nicoya. César G Soriano, Lonely Planet Author, USA WISE R H PRODUC TIONS / PHOTOLIBRARY JACÓ I know it s not the real Costa Rica, but I can t deny that Jacó (p322) isn t a blast every time I pass through. Sure, there are better surf spots and cleaner beaches, but its bar, restaurant and club scene is the best you ll find along the entire Pacific coast. Alex, Traveler, USA 02-highlights-cos9.indd 7 28/05/2010 1:11:28 PM

Contents 13 On the Road 4 Costa Rica Highlights 5 Destination Costa Rica 16 Getting Started 17 Itineraries 25 History 32 The Culture 41 Food & Drink 49 Environment 55 San José 66 History 67 Orientation 67 Information 67 Dangers & Annoyances 72 Sights 73 Activities 79 Courses 80 San José for Children 80 Tours 80 Festivals & Events 81 Sleeping 82 Eating 88 Drinking 92 Entertainment 92 Shopping 94 Getting There & Away 96 Getting Around 99 AROUND SAN JOSÉ 100 Los Yoses & San Pedro 101 Escazú 105 Central Valley & Highlands 113 ALAJUELA & THE NORTHERN VALLEY 114 Alajuela 114 Butterfly Farm 123 Volcán Poás 124 West to Atenas 126 Northwest to Sarchí 128 Zarcero 130 Bajos del Toro 131 Juan Castro Blanco 132 Palmares 132 San Ramón 132 Los Ángeles Cloud Forest Adventure Park 133 HEREDIA AREA 134 Heredia 134 Barva 137 CARTAGO AREA 138 Cartago 138 Volcán Irazú 140 Valle de Orosi 141 TURRIALBA AREA 145 Turrialba 146 Monumento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo 149 Volcán Turrialba 151 Northwestern Costa Rica 153 ARENAL ROUTE 155 Ciudad Quesada (San Carlos) 155 La Fortuna & Around 158 Volcán Arenal 171 El Castillo 174 Laguna de Arenal Area 175 Tilarán 180 Costa Rica Wildlife Guide 181 INTERAMERICANA NORTE 189 Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Peñas Blancas & Around 189 Costa de Pájaros 190 Juntas 190 Monteverde & Santa Elena 191 Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde 211 Reserva Santa Elena 214 Ecolodge San Luis & Research Station 215

153 Northwestern Costa Rica Iconic Costa Rica lives in the northwest. Whether it s for a glimpse of Volcán Arenal spitting fiery lava, the flash of green from a quetzal s wing or the perfect barrel ride at Witch s Rock, this region is heavily traveled for these and a wealth of other reasons. The landscape ranges from the blazing, dry beaches of the Guanacaste coast to the mist-shrouded heights of Volcán Miravalles (2028m) along the region s chain of volcanoes. The number and diversity of national parks and reserves alone sums up northwestern Costa Rica s classic ecodestination status. Many visitors make Arenal and Monteverde their first and last stops in the region, but if you have more time, it s worth seeking out the smaller, less-visited spots for a taste of something more authentic. Fumaroles and bubbling mud pots, impossibly aquamarine waterfalls and jewel-toned frogs and toucans add unexpected wonder to swaths of tropical wet forest and the humid slopes of the Cordillera de Guanacaste. At lower elevations, the open stretch of big-sky country along the Interamericana is lined with fincas (farms) and the odd guanacaste tree, for which the province is named. Just short of the Nicaraguan border, a detour west off the Interamericana leads to out-of-the-way bays some kick up consistent wind for kiteboarding addicts while others shelter tranquil sands for unruffled sunbathers. While the hot spots in the northwest are undoubtedly well traveled, the infinitude of natural attractions and remote destinations means that the experience can be as small, or as sprawling, as you want to make it. Back roads abound, offering independent travelers endless opportunities to explore the lesser-known, tucked-away treasures of the region. NORTHWESTERN COSTA RICA HIGHLIGHTS Watching lava light the night above the peak of Volcán Arenal (p 171 ) from viewpoints in La Fortuna or El Castillo Waking early to hike in the magical mists of Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde (p 211 ) and Reserva Santa Elena (p 214 ) before the busloads arrive Satisfying your need for speed on windy Bahía Salinas (p 240 ) with a kitesurfing course, or taking the chance to bronze on a deserted bay Trekking the circuit of waterfalls, thermal pools and volcanic vents of Volcán Rincón de la Vieja (p 231 ) by foot and horseback Hiking out to the otherworldly ceruleanblue waters of the Río Celeste at Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio (p 219 ) Watching wildlife at Costa Rica s largest wetland sanctuary, Palo Verde (p 223 ) Bahía Salinas Volcán Rincón de la Vieja Volcán Tenorio Palo Verde Reserva Santa Elena Volcán Arenal Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde

154 NORTHWESTERN COSTA RICA lonelyplanet.com NORTHWESTERN COSTA RICA History The first occupants of Guanacaste are believed to have been the Chorotega, who inhabited large tracts of land throughout Costa Rica, Honduras and Nicaragua in the 8th century BC. Unfortunately, our knowledge about the group is incomplete due to the lack of extensive ruins typical of populations in other parts of Central America. For more information on the Chorotega, see boxed text, p 279. Although their civilization prospered for over 2000 years, the Chorotega were wiped out by warfare and disease during the Spanish colonial period. During this era, the Spanish systematically clear-cut large tracts of dry tropical rainforest as the table-flat landscape was perfect for growing crops and raising cattle. Following the independence of Central America from Spain, the newly independent provinces formed the Central American Federation. At the time, Guanacaste was part of Nicaragua, although border disputes resulted in skirmishes with Costa Rica. But on July 25, 1824, guanacastecos voted to separate and join Costa Rica. Contemporary Guanacastecos take pride in their unique origin and culture, and it s not uncommon to see flags proclaiming an independent Guanacaste. Climate The climate in northwestern Costa Rica varies widely from the heat of Guanacaste to the peaks of the chain of volcanoes in the region. As Costa Rica s driest province, Guanacaste gets little to no rain during the months of November through April, in sharp contrast to the rest of the tropical country. At higher elevations that range from dry tropical forest to the famous misty cloud forests, temperatures are significantly cooler (averaging at around 18 C/65 F year-round), and places like Monteverde alternate between humid and rainy. Parks & Reserves Northwestern Costa Rica has a wealth of parks and reserves, ranging from little-visited national parks to the highlight on many visitors itineraries, Monteverde. Guanacaste (p 237 ) One of the leastvisited parks in Costa Rica. The land transitions between dry tropical forest to humid cloud forest. Palo Verde (p 223 ) Stay at the research station here and take a guided tour to see some of the 300-plus bird species that have been recorded in this rich wetland. Rincón de la Vieja (p 231 ) Peaceful, muddy isolation can be found just outside of Liberia, where bubbling thermal activity abounds. Santa Rosa (p 234 ) Access legendary surf, hike through the largest stand of tropical dry forest in Central America and visit a historical battle site. Volcán Arenal (p 171 ) Centered on the perfect cone of Volcán Arenal, the clouds will sometimes disperse to reveal red-hot lava or a plume of smoke. Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Peñas Blanca (p 189 ) If you re self-sufficient, it s possible to visit this wild refuge in the southern Cordillera de Tilarán. Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Bahía Junquillal (p 237 ) Another small, peaceful protected site, this refuge has a beach backed by mangrove swamp and tropical dry forest. Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde (p 211 ) Costa Rica s most famous cloud forest, Monteverde receives a steady stream of visitors without having lost its magic. Reserva Biológica Lomas de Barbudal (p 224 ) If you re here in March, you might be lucky enough to catch the yellow blooms of the corteza amarilla tree in this tropical dry forest reserve. Reserva Santa Elena (p 214 ) Slightly less crowded and at a higher elevation than Monteverde, this is also a good spot to seek a quetzal sighting. Dangers & Annoyances While foreign women generally have no problems traveling in Costa Rica, they may sense a whiff of machismo in Guanacaste, most often if traveling alone, and usually in the form of harmless hissing or catcalls. This constant annoyance may become exasperating (especially when combined with heat and humidity), and the best way to combat it is simply to ignore it. Getting There & Around More and more visitors are flying directly into Liberia, a convenient international airport that makes for quick escapes to both northwestern Costa Rica and the beaches of the Península de Nicoya. Liberia is also a major transportation center for buses traveling the Interamericana, from the border with Nicaragua to San José. Regular buses also serve the Península de Nicoya to hubs such as Santa Cruz and Nicoya and coastal points beyond. The most unusual mode of transport in the area is the jeep-boat-jeep transfer between Monteverde and La Fortuna, but it s also possible to do the trip on horseback.

lonelyplanet.com ARENAL ROUTE Ciudad Quesada (San Carlos) 155 ARENAL ROUTE If you ve got your own wheels and you ve got a little time, take the road from Ciudad Quesada to the Arenal area you are in for one beautiful ride. With the backdrop of Volcán Platanar, the road winding through this green, river-rich agrarian region passes through prosperous, quaint towns bright with bougainvillea. In front of you, if the weather cooperates, the smoking peak of Arenal will loom in the distance. Past La Fortuna, the paved road (beware of potholes) hugs the north bank of Laguna de Arenal. On either side of the road, up the green slope and down on the lakeside, turnouts and driveways for lovely inns, kooky ersatz Austrian mini-villages, hip coffeehouses and eccentric galleries appear invitingly like pictures in a pop-up book. Scattered in between, you can t help but notice the scads of real-estate signs offering lots for sale, but the area is bucolic and not overdeveloped, and each stop feels far enough away from the next to give a sense of isolation. Heading back around the western edge of the lake, you ll pass through the lakeside Nuevo Arenal and down to the pleasant mountain town of Tilarán before descending back toward the Interamericana. Note that the route is also well served by public transportation. CIUDAD QUESADA (SAN CARLOS) pop 27,300 The official name of this small city is Ciudad Quesada (sometimes abbreviated to Quesada ), but all the locals know it as San Carlos, and local buses often list San Carlos as the destination. It s long been a bustling ranching and agricultural center, known for its talabaterías (saddle shops), where some of the most intricately crafted leather saddles in Costa Rica are made and sold; a topquality saddle can cost US$1000. The city is also home to the Feria del Ganado (cattle fair and auction), which is held every April and accompanied by carnival rides and a tope (horse parade). Although San Carlos is surrounded by pastoral countryside, the city has developed into the commercial center of the region it s also gritty and congested, and driving here can be harrowing for the uninitiated driver. Fortunately, there s no real reason to enter the city, except to either change buses or visit one of the area s fine hot springs. As the regional market town, you ll find plenty of ATMs, internet cafes and groceries and shops around Parque Central. If you re not staying at one of the two private hot-springs resorts, you can visit the budget-friendly Aguas Termales de la Marina (%2460-1692; admission US$2). The springs, on the outskirts of town, are referred to locally as El Tucanito (El Tucano is the name of the most expensive resort in town). Sleeping & Eating There is no shortage of budget hotels and eateries around town. Apart from the plethora of chain restaurants, you ll find a few decent local spots on or near the park. Hotel Don Goyo (%2460-1780; s/d US$20/30; p) This is the most established hotel in San Carlos proper, and has small, pleasant, salmon-colored rooms with private hot shower. The attached restaurant (mains 2300 to 5800) is well respected for its high-quality food, including traditional Tico favorites and a good variety of Western dishes. It s 100m south of Parque Central. Loma Verde Hotel (%2460-1976; s/d incl breakfast US$40/62; pacw) Located about 2km north of town on the road to Florencia, this hotel is on a hilltop garden with great vistas. It s popular with Christian retreat groups and features a games room, internet cafe and pretty landscaping. It s a good, quiet budget option if you just need a place to crash for the evening. All rooms have private bathroom with hot water, air-con and TV. The hotel is well signed from the highway. Termales del Bosque (%2460-4740; www.termales delbosque.com; s/d incl breakfast US$62/78; ps) Several airy cottages are arranged around the jungle-like grounds at this recommended resort designed with Tico tourism in mind, though it s popular with foreigners who don t want to fork out the cash at nearby El Tucano. Luxury here is low-key with therapeutic soaking taking place in seven natural hot- and warm-water springs (adult/child US$22/6), which are arranged on the riverbank in a forested valley populated by morpho butterflies. To reach the resort, turn right behind the cathedral and continue for 7km to the east; you will see a sign on the left. Hotel Occidental El Tucano & Spa (%2460-0600; http://en.occidentalhotels.com/hotels/eltucano.asp; d NORTHWESTERN COSTA RICA

575 Index 4WD see car travel A accommodations 523-4 language 559-60 activities 405-12, 524-9, see also individual activities addresses 534 Afro-Caribbean culture 43, 454, 473 itinerary 27 AIDS 554 air travel airfares 542-3 airlines 541-2 airports 541-2 to/from Costa Rica 541-3 within Costa Rica 546-7, 543 Alajuela 114-23, 118 accommodations 119-22 entertainment 123 festivals 119 food 122-3 travel to/from 123 amphibians 184-5, see also frogs animals 56-8, 181-8, 556, see also individual animals books 56, 58 anteaters 187 archaeological sites Alma Ata Archaeological Park 503 internet resources 34 Monumento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo 149-51, 12 Palmar 380 Carara 318 Manuel Antonio 351 Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño 402-3 Arenal Observatory Lodge 172 Arias Sánchez, Oscar 16, 39, 40 art galleries, see museums & galleries arts 46-8, see also handicrafts, individual arts Atenas 127 ATMs 534, see also money Aviarios del Caribe Sloth Sanctuary 469 B Bagaces 222-3 Bahía Drake 395-400, 395 Bahía Gigante 295-6 Bahía Potrero 256-8 Bahía Salinas 240-4 Baird s tapir 58, 187, 368, 375, 388, 423, 424, 428 Bajos del Toro 131-2 banana industry 37-8, 42, 311, 429, 448 bargaining 536 Barra del Colorado 467-8 Barva 137-8 basilisk 185, 407 bathrooms 537 bats 196 Battle of Santa Rosa 36, 234 beaches 22, see also playa itineraries 25, 26, 27 La Playita 347, 348 Montezuma 298-9, 7 Playa Carrillo 290-1 Playa Coyote 292-4 Playa del Coco 247-53, 250-1 Playa Esterillos 334-5 Playa Hermosa (central Pacific coast) 332-4 Playa Herradura 321-2 Playa Naranjo (Península de Nicoya) 294 Playa Sámara 286-90 Playa San Miguel 292-4 Playa Tamarindo 263-71, 265 bicycle travel, see cycling Binational Green Macaw Festival 516 biological reserves, see also national parks & refuges Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde 211-14 Reserva Biológica Dúrika 378 Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere 469 Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño 402-3, 411 Reserva Biológica Lomas de Barbudal 224-5 Reserva Biológica Oro Verde 358-9 birds 56, 182-3, 181, 182, 183, see also individual species books 57 bird-watching 57, 407-8, 528 Costa de Pájaros 190 Costa Rican Bird Route 510 Ecolodge San Luis & Research Station 215 Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge 354 Isla Bolaños 240, 241 Juntas 191 La Fortuna 162 Laguna de Arenal 175 Los Ángeles Cloud Forest Adventure Park 133 Los Cusingos Bird Sanctuary 372 Mata de Limón 317 Monumento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo 150-1 Parque Internacional La Amistad 388-9 Braulio Carrillo 444 Carara 319 Chirripó 375-6 Corcovado 422 Isla del Cocos 440-1 Los Quetzales 368 Manuel Antonio 351-2 Marino Ballena 360 Marino Las Baulas de Guanacaste 262 Palo Verde 223, 224 Rincón de la Vieja 231-2 Santa Rosa 236 Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte 144 Tortuguero 460 Volcán Arenal 172 Pavones 437 Puerto Jiménez 415 Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí 505 Rancho La Merced National Wildlife Refuge 359 Rara Avis 509 Refugio de Vida Silvestre Cipancí 217 INDEX

576 INDEX (B-C) INDEX bird-watching continued Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional 286 Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Bahía Junquillal 237 Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro 517 Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú 297 Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo 494 Reserva Biológica Alberto Manuel Brenes 190 Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde 213, 214 Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere 469 Reserva Biológica Lomas de Barbudal 224 Reserva Biológica Oro Verde 359 San Gerardo de Dota 366 San Isidro de El General 370 Wilson Botanical Garden 382-3 blue morpho 183, 183 blue-gray tanager 183 boa constrictor 185, 185 boat travel, see also canoeing, kayaking, white-water rafting to/from Costa Rica 546 within Costa Rica 547 Boca Barranca 317 Boca Tapada 512-13 Bogarin-Solano, William 163 books Afro-Caribbean culture 473 animals 56, 58 birds 57 fiction 46-7, 65 food 49 health 553 history 35 indigenous cultures 32, 42, 473 language 558 politics 39 rainforests 63 travel 23-4, 316 border crossings 543-5 Nicaragua 242-3, 468, 515 Panama 383, 497 Boruca Dam 379 Boruca (Brunka) people 378-80 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages Bosque Eterno de los Niños 197-8 Bribrí 496-7 Bribrí people 388, 472, 481, 489 Brunka (Boruca) people 378-80 Buenos Aires 378 bullfighting 43-4, 94, 163, 180, 216, 249 bungee jumping 524 La Fortuna 162 Rosario area 128 bus travel to/from Costa Rica 545 within Costa Rica 547-8, 551 bushmaster 185 business hours 529, see also inside front cover butterflies 162, 174, 183, 193, 197, 299, 354, 470, 488, 502, 183 Butterfly Farm (La Guácima) 123-4 C Cabécar people 378, 388, 489 Cabo Matapalo 418-20 Cabuya 303-4 cacao 479, 481, 503 Cacao Trails 479 Café Britt Finca 137 Cafta (Central American Free Trade Agreement) 40 Cahuita 469-77, 471 accommodations 472-6 activities 470 drinking 477 food 476-7 national park 477-9 tours 470-2 travel to/from 477 travel within 477 Cañas 216-18, 217 canoeing, see also kayaking, white-water rafting Bahía Drake 397 La Fortuna 162 Tortuguero 460, 461, 462 canopy tours 525 Bahía Drake 397 El Castillo 174 Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge 354 Jacó 325 La Fortuna 162 La Virgen 501 Laguna de Arenal 175 Los Ángeles Cloud Forest Adventure Park 133 Monteverde 199-200 Montezuma 299-300 Nosara 282 Península de Nicoya 256 Playa Hermosa (central Pacific coast) 333 Playa Sámara 287 Puerto Jiménez 415 Puerto Viejo de Talamanca 488 Santa Elena 199-200 Turu Ba Ri Tropical Park 317 Veragua Rainforest Research & Adventure Park 451 canyoning 162 car travel crossing rivers 304, 548 driving accidents 533-4 insurance 548-9 rental 548-9 road conditions & hazards 550 road distances 549 road rules 550 road signs 564 to/from Costa Rica 545-6 west coast by 4WD 304 within Costa Rica 548-50 Carate 420-1 Cariari 449-50 Caribbean coast 442-97, 446-7, 8 itineraries 27, 28 Cartago 138-40, 139 Catarata de la Fortuna 161 Catarata de Río Celeste 219 Catarata La Cangreja 232 Catarata Manantial de Agua Viva 320 Catarata San Luis 199 Cataratas y Senderos Avellán 431 cathedrals, see churches Catholicism 45, 138 Catie (Centro Agronómico Tropical de Investigación) 146-7 caves Las Cavernas de Corredores 381-2 Barra Honda 55, 279-81 Venado Caves 520-2 ceiba tree 62 Central Valley 113-52, 116-17 Centro Neotrópico Sarapiquís 503 ceramics 536 Cerro Chirripó 374, 10