Web Fragrant Newsletter

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1 Web Fragrant Newsletter The Independent Fragrant NL Content WFN 52 Nov 2014 Fragrant People Juliette Karagueuzoglou (IFF) Randa Hammami (Damascena) Accords et Parfums Dear Reader, Enjoy your latest Web Fragrant Newsletter 52! WFN is free, independent, co-signed by people, bimonthly, written in English, for professionals only... And still a pleasure! See you next year! [topnotes] Nathalie Pichard Fragrance Training Specialist & Evaluator Fragrant Ethic Materials Stéphane Piquart (BeHave) JE Sozio and the Green Vanilla Fragrant Events Atkinsons Comité Joséphine Selection of Fragrances Nina Frydlender Creazioni for Penhaligon s Un Soir à Paris... by Korloff Other new launches Patricia de Nicolaï and her husband Jean-Louis Michau founded their own fragrance brand in Nicolaï was one of the first niche fragrance brands with L Artisan Parfumeur or Diptyque... Patricia is perfumer and responsible for the creation, Jean-Louis is sales and business development manager. Happy Birthday! The duo signs, 25 years later, their first book dedicated to their debut story and creative work. The book is available on line, in the boutiques and bookshops. Congrats! The book is superb! [email protected] Thanks to Jan Henson (Corporate Trainer-English for Business) for rereading and Sylvaine Delacourte (Guerlain) for blogging (espritdeparfum)

2 Fragrant People JULIETTE KARAGUEUZOGLOU IFF As her name is quite difficult to spell at first glance, you can be sure you won t forget it! Since her childhood, Juliette has always been passionate about perfumes and scents. Juliette Karagueuzoglou did her internship at Expressions Parfumées during her studies at ISIPCA and then went on to make her career at IFF Paris and NY where she was taught by great perfumers. She loves chypre and spicy structures and likes to work with woods, iris she treats in short formulas. Juliette has now many creations in her fine fragrances portfolio she signed with other perfumers or by herself: La Nuit de L Homme YSL (co creation), L Homme Sport YSL (with Anne Flipo), and also for The Body Shop, Yves Rocher, Vespa, Bruno Banani, Salvatore Ferragamo, Massimo Dutti, Esprit, Versace Pour Femme Oud Oriental by Versace, Yardley,...Remember her name! RANDA HAMMAMI DAMASCENA With a Syrian father and a French mother, Randa Hammami lived initially in Damascus and then Atlanta before settling in Paris in Originally a pharmacist, she made the decision to follow her true passion and reinvent herself in the fragrance industry. As a first step, she graduated from the highly reputable ISIPCA, mentored by the Master Perfumer Dominique Ropion (now working at IFF). She then furthered her experience at Symrise where she assisted the Master Perfumer Maurice Roucel in the creation of two iconic fragrances for Guerlain: l Instant and Insolence. She created her own company Damascena in tribute to the rose of her hometown Damascus, and partnered with Art et Parfum the historical supplier of Maison Dior in Grasse. Among her creations, we can find many Guerlain with the complicity of Sylvaine Delacourte, Cruel Gardenia, L Instant Magic 2, Insolence Eau Glacée but also Amouge Epic Man Randa s [email protected] ACCORDS ET PARFUMS «Je ferai fleurir les pierres et chanter les oiseaux» Edmond Roudnitska More and more perfumers choose to strike out on their own, when age, experience, freedom or necessity drive them to independence and to find another way to express their creativity and work. But there are then the following questions. Where to go? How to work? Sourcing, buying, formulation, logistics, laboratory, regulatory, supply chain etc. become huge issues tosolve. And investment costs. Olivier Maure and Michel Roudnitska Olivier Maure, manager of Art et Parfum (ex. Edmond Roudnitska s laboratory in Cabris) founded Accords et Parfums, a fragrance house dedicated to independent perfumers ten years ago. The platform is located in the south of France in the same building as Michel Roudnitska s Art et Parfum company, homage to his father. Accords et Parfums produces oils, allowing creations to be made up with the highest process standards. Each perfumer keeps his company names and own clientele, while benefitting from all technical supports. Accords et Parfums give perfumers the means and the tools to pursue their work by providing them the best conditions for creation... Without the administrative and production issues they might face if they were on their own. And for clients, it reassures them their perfumes will be produced in optimum conditions. Flexibility, integrity and rigor drive the company to serve demanding niche clients. The perfumers of Accords et Parfums are: Mélanie Leroux, Bertrand Duchaufour, Randa Hammami, Karine Chevallier, Thomas Fontaine, Michel Roudnitska, Sylvie Jourdet, Giorgia Navarra, Laurence Fanuel, Marie Duchêne, Stephanie Bakouche Kouidrui, Daniel Boubat, Marc Antoine Corticchiato, Jean Denis Saisse, Vanina Muracciole

3 Fragrant Ethic Materials STEPHANE PIQUART BeHave, Ethical hunter of scents Nicaragua, Zanzibar, Namibia, Australia... Stéphane Piquart has been running and travelling for 15 years to source the best raw materials for perfumery. What s Stéphane s job? Globetrotting seeker? Adventurer? Hunter of essences? Stéphane is a sort of fragrance missionary, who helps perfumers to create catching and innovative fragrances. A fair cause. Founder of Behave (be-have, to behave), Stéphane is a specialist of fairtrade materials. An unconventional metier: he sources natural ingredients in a way that respects the environment and is respectful and fair with the people who produce them. He travels around the globe to search for the best and rarest raw materials, for major fragrance houses and brands, in partnership with the NGO Cœur de Forêt and SWC in Australia. Behave helps local producers with financial investments. Among Behave s clients there are Hermès, L'occitane en Provence, Yves Rocher, Givaudan, Firmenich, IFF, Symrise,Takasago, Mane, Robertet, Accords et parfums, Kilian, Le Labo, Patou... Stéphane, smelling a Nicaraguan Gardenia We enable perfumers to add a little extra soul to their fragrances. It restores the rareness of perfume and enhances our enjoyment of and desire for elegant scents, S.P explains Ylang from Comores Green Vanilla from Flores BeHave s collection is made up of exceptional raw materials: Sandalwood from Australia, Vanilla from Madagascar or Flores Island, Ylang Ylang from Comores, Myrrh and Bushmen candle from Namibia, Piripiri from Peru, Ambergris from Haiti, and a sublime collection of alcoolats of flower... Among his new ingredients: Namibian myrrh, a.k.a. Himba gold, a new Ylang-Ylang that is distilled in under an hour, and a Green Vanilla. Some smell crude, rough, raw, others smell strong and wild, even animalic...like any stones or gems to be cut and magnified. They carry you into the deepest and strangest sources of mother earth, in far and distant countries. At the same time, they fulfill health and safety criteria and the capacity for long-term supply to ensure that each producer is remunerated fairly. In the trendy and buoyant world of niche brands searching for authenticity and quality, these raw materials are a must-have! [email protected] JE SOZIO, Green Vanilla and Fairtrade The JE Sozio perfume house represents over 250 years of history in the creation of fragrances. Since the start of Sozio, the French perfume house has always been a familyrun business where perfumery has always been both an art and a passion. Sozio has been developing and perpetuating the activity of Sozio, by bringing a modern industrial dimension to the perfume house as well as developing its international presence. A conference about fairtrade and sustainable development in perfumery was organized by Sozio at the Musée des Arts Asiatiques Guimet last October in Paris. The team presented its clients with Sozio s new fairtrade collection developed with the complicity and partnership of Stéphane Piquart (BeHave) and the NGO Cœur de Forêt. Since 2005, this organization has been running the promotion and protection of forests and local populations ( Charlotte Meyrueis, development manager & in charge of Madagascar, and Stéphane Piquart explained the project of the development of a new Planifolia Green Vanilla absolute (without solvant) in the Island of Flores: its exceptional quality is attributed to its 34% of vanillin... Charlotte Meyrueis and Stéphane Piquart The conference was animated by an olfactory workshop showing the raw materials highlighted in different applications (candles, edt) Patchouli from Indonesia, Ginger from Madagascar, Green Vanilla from Flores, Vetiver from Haiti, Cinnamon from Madagascar, Bushmen Candle from Namibia (wood discovered by Stéphane Piquart)... And many other secret flavors and odors...

4 Fragrant Events ATKINSONS (PERFUME HOLDING) In the early Spring of 1799, James Atkinson, an enterprising young gentleman from the wilds of Cumberland, set forth by carriage for the glorious city of London. In his suit pocket were recipes for fine scents and toiletries of his own devising. Next to him sat a sizeable quantity of rose-scented bear grease balm. Next to the balm sat a growly bear. The growly bear was thoroughly devoted to James. Within mere days the utterly fantastic balm became indispensable to London's most upper crust, who braved the bear at the door of 44 Gerrard Street ("that marvellous perfume shop with the most terrifying bear") to procure sufficient stock for the Social Season. In 1800, James Atkinson hit upon his most startling creation to date, a fearlessly English Eau de Cologne totally different from the Italianate colognes then in vogue. Curiously fresh yet warm and spicy 24 old Bond Street. The Emblematic Collection was born! The Legendary Collection launched in 2013 is composed of Nuptial Bouquet, British Bouquet, Fashion Decree and The Old Fellows Bouquet They are iconic traditional heritage of Atkinsons revamped with a modern twist! The Contemporary Collection is a haute parfumerie collection encapsulating the British Luxury Essence of the house. The great classics of perfumery treated with Atkinsons's vanguard spirit & a whole lot of eccentricity. The Contemporary Collection is composed of the following 4 fragrances: Lavender on the Rocks, Jasmine in Tangerine, Rose in Wonderland, Posh on the Green Perfumes are signed by Christine Nagel, Fabrice Pellegrin, Karine Dubreuil or Benoîst Lapouza. The brand is retailed in Harrods, Selfridges, Barneys New York, El Corte Ingles, in Germany, Dubai, Qatar, Koweït, UAE, Turkey, Singapour, Seoul, Netherlands, Switzerland, Russia and Printemps Haussmann... COMITE JOSEPHINE, Maisons Françaises de Parfums Rares The sector of rare fragrances is made up of a large number of houses that are usually independent. They are directed by passionate men and women who seek to offer patrimonial, new-patrimonial or contemporary jewels. Bound by dreams, desires, ambitions, frustrations and common pleasures, these entrepreneurs often have to face their everyday life alone due to lack oftime, ofconfidence, and common purpose. The 26 th of September An association, a name, a label, and a woman. Behind the creation of Comité Joséphine there is Marie Huet, Managing Director of Parfums d Orsay a woman of character, convinced by the cause, who decided to federate rare brands. Accompanied by a commission of experts, its mission is to federate, represent, help, support and promote the whole sector in order to help customers make informed choices, brands better communicate and distributors to better identify authentic houses of rare perfumes. Only the houses that will live up to the criteria of Comité Joséphine quality and commitment chart will be accepted as members by the committee of experts and will benefit from the quality label. Members of Comité Joséphine are Ann Gérard Parfum, Jardins d Écrivains, Jovoy, La Parfumerie Moderne, Le Galion, Olfactive Studios, Parfums D'Orsay, Parfums Volnay, Pozzo Di Borgo, The Different Company. The name Joséphine refers to Joséphine Bonaparte.Woman of France, captivating and surprisingly modern and free, Joséphine was also a passionate about sciences and botany. She contributed to the latter by introducing two new flowers in France and two roses bear her name. Joséphine is a meaningful name, with international resonance, that represents France, its genius, its contrasts and its modernity. Founders: Ana Estevane Co-founder of PERFARIUM, Luc Gabriel President at THE DIFFERENT COMPANY Marie Huet Managing Director of PARFUMS D'ORSAY François Hénin Founder of JOVOY Nicolas Chabot - President at LE GALION PARFUMS

5 Fragrant Launches PENHALIGON S Penhaligon s have worked with the workshop Nina Frydlender Creazioni, to create a unique one off collection of six bottles in six of the bestselling fragrances. Nina has created a unique design for each bottle, drawing inspiration from the name of each fragrance rather than the notes within each one. Available exclusively in Penhaligons St Honore boutique in Paris, the 500ml fragrances are available to buy on the 29 th of November and are priced at 850 each. 1.BLENHEIM BOUQUET The bottle of Blenheim Bouquet is inspired by the blue eyes of Gladys Deacon, the Duchess of Marlborough. Her eyes were so extraordinary that the English painter Colin Gill painted hundreds of eyes on the ceiling of a room in Blenheim Palace. 2.ARTEMISIA The bottle of Artemisia is inspired by Artemis the Goddess of hunting, wilderness, wild animals and the moon. She was a prominent figure in Greek and Roman mythology 3.ENDYMION Endymion is also inspired by romantic tales from Greek mythology. Endymion was a mortal put into a perpetual sleep by Artemis, the Goddess of the Moon, so that she could gaze upon him lovingly each evening LILY OF THE VALLEY This bottle is inspired by the freshness and femininity of spring. 5.MALABAH The bottle of Malabah is inspired by the beauty of East India. Peacocks are large and majestic birds, and the national bird of India. They are an integral part of the country s culture, art and architecture SARTORIAL Sartorial is inspired by the fantasy world of a gentleman in the 19 th century. The gentleman is a traveler refined and cultured and one who is a regular in Savile Row. UN SOIR A PARIS... by KORLOFF Korloff fragrances are like jewels, loyal to the values and tradition of the jewelry brand. The Korloff house gives priority originality, quality and exclusivity to its perfume collection. To express and evoke luxury, the Korloff house creates perfumes as if they were jewels, and exceptional pieces combining both opacity and transparency. Un Soir à Paris, 8 th fragrance of the brand, is a fruity chypre composed by Mylène Alran from Robertet with Rose, Patchouli and Peach. The new fragrance is inspired by the romance of Paris, presented by roses wrapped in patchouli and delicate fruity notes. It is intended for women who value quality and luxury and wants a touch of the magic that Paris, the city of light and love, offers. The shape of the bottle is round, with a soft touch effect, and evokes a precious ring combining gold and black glass, topped by the famous Korloff Cut diamond. The fragrances are sold exclusively in Korloff boutiques and through agreed points of sale. OTHER NEW LAUNCHES Original by Anja Rubik, B. Balenciaga, Secret de Rochas by Rochas, la Fumée Arabie by Miller Harris and Candle Bois Noisette (Miller Harris Chromatic Trilogy), Cuir Cuba Intense by Nicolaï and Parfums Bombay 1950, Copal Azur by ADV