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1 Web Fragrant Newsletter The Independent Fragrant NL Content WFN 56 September 2015 People Olivier Aron (Rosae) Philippe Paparella Paris (Symrise Shanghai) Daniela Andrier (Givaudan Paris) Dear Reader, Enjoy your latest Web Fragrant Newsletter 56! WFN is free, independent, co-signed by people, bimonthly, written in English, for professionals only... And still a pleasure! See you in November! [topnotes] Nathalie Pichard Fragrance Training Specialist & Evaluator What s up? Van Gogh & Sesame + Ecole Supérieure du Parfum Collection Notes de Fond by Affinessence Launches The first boutique Atelier Cologne in Asia - HK Différentes Latitudes, 10 years! Maison Incens by Philippe Constantin Fragrance Trends White vs Black fragrances, a selection of perfumes Happy 80, Shalimar! The famous Guerlain s oriental never ages with its legendary accord of bergamot, vanilla, leather, iris, jasmin, rose, tonka beans, opoponax, animalic notes Shalimar means Temple of Love in Indian Thanks to Jan Henson (Corporate Trainer-English for Business) for rereading and Sylvaine Delacourte (Guerlain) for blogging (espritdeparfum)

2 Fragrant People Olivier Aron ROSAE Olivier ARON is the founder of ROSAE, a specialized cosmetics market research company. Let s all share one of his latest research about addiction and performance of the juices. The 2 most important factors to assess the future performance of a juice (on the market) are, on one hand, its quantitative performance in terms of liking and purchase intention, and on the other, the density of the qualitative addiction expressed freely by the consumer (ie the words that measure the «wow» factor such as «I adore», «this perfume is made for me», «I want to buy it right away» etc.). Based on 15 years of experience helping the major brands such as Paco Rabanne, Thierry Mugler, Lancôme, Cacharel, Nina Ricci, Azzaro and many others, as well as working continuously for the major fragrance houses (Firmenich, IFF, Symrise, Mane and Givaudan), ROSAE has established a close correlation between these two factors. People tend to bring into opposition commercial performance and signature scent. ROSAE can explain how wrong they are, with Rosae s method. To go further, please do contact: [email protected] Philippe Paparella Paris SYMRISE SHANGHAI Expert in Asian markets. Philippe Paparella Paris began his career as a perfumer at Mane, in Bar Sur Loup after his studies at ISIPCA. He moved to Asia where he worked in Indonesia for 2 years, and then settled in Beijing and Shanghai where he stayed until Philippe had the opportunity to join Symrise there and work on local projects and international as well. Among his creations, there are Sweet Honesty Moments (Avon), Sweet Honesty Brillance (Avon) developed for the Philippines market. Philippe won Ferrari Bright Neroli Essence (cocreated with Lucas Sieuzac) and Ferrari Noble Fig Essence, Romano Metro Pulse and Colonia Cuoio (Renato Balestra). Daniela Andrier GIVAUDAN PARIS There is no fragrance in real life that perfumers can imitate to perfection. You can never render the beauty of nature... I don't think it is interesting to even try. You can never compete. Rather fragrance should be a powerful cocktail of memories and emotion. Daniela Andrier is well-known in the small world of perfumers. Daniela Andrier was born in Heidelberg (Germany). She studied philosophy at the Sorbonne before deciding on a career in perfume. Daniela started as a trainee at Chanel in 1988; the following year, she began attending at the Roure Perfumery School. Personality, charisma, and a special fragrant Italian touch enhance the way she composes the fragrances. Herlist of successes is long. To quote a few: the new launch from Miu Miu this fall, all Prada perfumes, many Bulgari and Bottega Veneta, not forgetting Guerlain Angelique Noire or Martin Margiela s Untitled, Kenzo s Le Monde est beau, and the latest Prada s Olfactories (shown). Courtesy of Givaudan

3 Fragrant What s up? Painting odors, smelling colors Van Gogh & Sesame by Ecole Supérieure du Parfum In 1890, when he was in Auvers sur Oise, famous painter Van Gogh told his brother that his dream was to exhibit his paintings in a coffee shop. Johann Vitrey (Sesame) and students from the Ecole Supérieure du Parfum Jasmin 2017 promotion made this dream come true by creating a line of scented candles reflecting 6 of Van Gogh s paintings. 6 paintings, 6 colors and 6 fragrances, «Promenade à Auvers» All benefits from the sale of the candles (available at Sens Unique, Jovoy, and also museums) will be given to Maison Van Gogh. Partners are among them Valérie Pasmanian, Bougies la Française, Carbonnel and Procos Affinessence Collection Notes de Fond by Sophie Bruneau The creator Sophie Bruneau is as sunny and energetic as her smiling and passionate face. She is entire as her first Collection Notes de Fond. After many years in the marketing and fragrance development, Sophie founded in 2013 her company Affinessence to accompany brands and develop their perfumes. This year, true to her convictions and passion, she decided to go further and dive into the world of niche brands by launching her first own Collection Notes de Fond. Risky but a calcutated one. A highly personal and daring collection of 4 fragrances made up exclusively with base notes and longlasting ingredients. Precious because of the ingredients Sophie didn t stint on the cost price to the perfumers and original (without the classical olfactory pyramid head-heart-base ). She wanted the best quality of ingredients for a rich sillage (trail): Vanilla from Tahiti and Madagascar, Labdanum, Patchouli from Indonesia, Benzoin from Siam, Iris Pallida, Myrrh, Sandalwood from Mysore, Cedar (3 varieties),a genuine Oud essence from Indonesia Sophie wanted them to be recognizable and emblematic. The result is that Collection Notes De Fond is altogether raw, direct, sensual, harmonious, refined and vibrant, with volume. This new line is currently available at Jovoy awaiting distribution in selected perfumeries. 100 ml retails at duos of extremely longlasting fragrances created by 3 perfumers for a collection of Perfumes of excellence presented in a natural cashmere pouch. The pure bottle is inspired by Art Deco design. - Nicolas Bonneville (Fragrance Resources): Cèdre Iris and Patchouli Oud - Corine Cachen (Drom): Vanille Benjoin - Alexandra Carlin (Symrise): Santal Basmati

4 Fragrant Launches Hong Kong, 5th boutique for Atelier Cologne After NY and Paris, Atelier Cologne brings its signature Cologne Absolue to Hong Kong with Asia s first Boutique at the Prestigious ifc mall. The opening of this store in Asia represents a key investment for Atelier Cologne and is the starting point of a growth strategy in this region. Additional openings are planed in Asia in 2016 and Relying today on more than 10 personalized points of sales in China (Lane Crawford, Sogo, 10 Corso Como) and Korea (Hyundai and Lotte), Atelier Cologne has already established a highly qualitative presence. The opening of this Boutique will serve to reinforce commitment to the region and also to its clients who are increasingly inclined to wear perfumes. A new challenge and retail concept to enhance the shopping experience and the discovery of about 25 Colognes Absolues in line with the evolution of the Chinese tastes in fragrances. Différentes Latitudes happy 10 years : ! In september 2005, David Frossard (picture) has co-founded Différentes Latitudes with Loic Leguen, as a trademark for independent perfumers. The company has grown with 10 employees and since 2008 has gained renowned expertise in the fragrance niche market by distributing a selection of outstanding brands such as Fornasetti, Arquiste, Dear Rose, Frapin, Odin NY, Piguet, Atkinsons, Pour Toujours, Miller Harris, Noble Isle, Room 1015 through a network of sales outlets in Europe, the United States, the Middle East and Russia. Différentes Latitudes has its own boutique Liquides in Le Haut Marais in Paris and owns P. Frapin & Cie. To celebrate this anniversary, conferences will be given between October and December in the boutique. Cuir Erindil Figue Aoudii Figue Eleii Musc Kalirii Oud Deneii Maison Incens by Philippe Constantin Maison Incens is a French based fragrance house founded in 2013 by Philippe Constantin who was born in Morocco to a French father and a Moroccan mother. He grew up in Casablanca, and decided to go to France for his studies. One encounter changed his destiny. The day Philippe Constantin met the perfumer Jean-Claude Gigodot (perfumer for Au pays de la fleur d Oranger) changed his life and his career. His passion for perfumes was born. A few years later, he decided to create Maison Incens in homage to his father and the manuscript he had left his son with: a compilation of drawings on leather, and scented stories. Maison Incens is available at Sens Unique Paris and is retailed by Nobile 1942 in Italy where the brand works well, and by Aromateka in Russia. Presence in Germany and UK is to be expected soon. More info:

5 Fragrance Trends Light! Softness! White strength! Some new White vs Black Fragrances White fragrances, white packaging, white sensations of breeze, creamy notes or white flowers Purity, cocoon, strength, coldness The white color in perfume is treated differently by brands in recent launches. Penhaligons plays on the strength of the wind against the rocks in England Blasted Heath and Blasted Bloom, creations signed by A. Morillas (Firmenich) Dear Rose s White Song enhances the white notes of the Galant de Nuit flower with spices, a new Fabrice Pellegrin s signature. Reminiscence s Patchouli Blanc sublimates the senses in the softness of the sandalwood, aubepine and white musks Fabrice Pellegrin (Firmenich) for the composition Nivea eau de toilette, the second time that the mythic cream is translated into a perfume a floral aldehydic powdery Selfie by Olfactive Studio is a modern sweet aromatic chypre created by Thomas Fontaine (Pallida), with angelica, moss, incense. On the other side, Black perfumes continue to grow, with black bottles or labels, dark and intense notes of oudsy, woodsy, ambery or white flowers How many ways to express sensuality? Noir Exquis by L Artisan Parfumeur with coffee beans, maple syrup and glazed chestnuts, signed B. Duchaufour Cuir Impertinent by Les Exceptions Mugler The smokiness of tanned leather meets the unexpected explosion of star anise, to create a unique scent, created by Jean-Christophe Hérault (IFF) The Scent by Hugo Boss with the note of ambery combined with maninka fruit and leather (IFF) Ambre Impérial by VCA created by Quentin Bisch (Givaudan) Kilian s new provocative Voulez-vous coucher avec moi? with sandalwood, tuberose created by Alberto Morillas (Firmenich) Dear Rose s Song for a Queen, with black vanilla in a floriental accord, signed Fabrice Pellegrin (Firmenich) Black Musk by The Body Shop signed by Cécile Matton and Ralf Schwieger (Mane)