Barolo - the sensational 2008s

Transcription

1 Barolo - the sensational 2008s 7 Jun :31 by Walter Speller See the Nebbiolo guide for more articles and tasting notes from the 2012 Nebbiolo Prima and read this in conjunction with Barolo - what's so great about Many of the points raised in the discussion of the 2009 vintage for Barbaresco, especially with regards to terroir, are applicable to 2008 Barolo too. The year, best described as variable, started off without any excesses of heat or cold, and was not particular early. Problems started with an unsettled and very rainy May, which affected fruit set and caused ongoing concerns about disease and rot, especially because the following period proved to be quite cool. All of this set the expectation for a considerable reduction in yield, and required intense canopy management in many vineyards. Local hailstorms hit several vineyards, reducing the potential crop further. The irregular and cool weather pattern delayed the growing cycle and ripening until the end of August when fine, warm rather than hot and completely dry weather set in, lasting more than 50 days. This meant that some of the lost time could be recouped while enabling the producers to delay the harvest for as long as they dared. Because this was a vintage without any extremes in high temperatures, there are excellent acidity levels combined with good sugar levels and extract. But 2008 is also charged with massive and at times downright tough tannin, which is why it is dubbed by many producers as classic. It has resulted in wines that will need substantial bottle age for those tannins to soften out. Reduced yields, in some cases 15% lower than the previous vintage, were a blessing more than a curse, as grape prices, which had reached a historic low the year before, started to climb up again. My impressions of 2008 Barolo are extremely favourable. It is undeniably a year charged with powerful and bold tannin, but in most cases this is balanced by good extract and appetising acidity. But I do admit that tasting the vintage was a tough and tiring exercise. Very compact and in some cases very closed, the wines tended to show a certain richness and density in ripe dark fruit (as opposed to stewed, which was the case for many a 2007 Barolo), which balances the bold structure. And that structure demands time to soften and integrate into the wine has the bones and the stuffing for prolonged cellaring, which it deserves. But I do see a potential problem for the wines: will anyone have the patience to hold back pulling corks for a decade, and sometimes even more? Opening the best wines earlier is bound to lead to disappointment. As with all fine wines, there is no shortcut for this ageing process if you want to see the 2008 Barolos shine. I also sense that I may be somewhat isolated in my opinion of the general excellence of 2008, which is not to say that all wines live up to my judgement. Because Nebbiolo is such a transparent grape it is difficult to cover up flaws caused by weather patterns or less suitable sites and exposition. Oak, in some cases, has been used to literally make up for these shortcomings, but in 2008 it is fairly easy to separate the chaff from the grain, and to observe which communes did better than others. The first thing that struck me is that, contrary to 2007, the entry level Barolos are not

2 as seductive and easy to appreciate. In 2008 it almost always pays to trade up to a cru or single-vineyard level throughout all Barolo communes. Castiglione Falletto showed in most cases good rather than great. The wines seemed generally balanced and with high levels of extract and concentration, but lacking a little bit in complexity. It could well be that that richness may be overlaying this for the moment. In some cases the wines gave the impression that some producers had struggled to get the balance between sweet and ripe fruit entirely right while avoiding overripeness resulting in stewed fruit flavours. La Morra, as always, showed huge stylistic differences, and no wonder, as it is the largest commune of all. What I did notice was that here acidity levels generally seemed to be lower than in the other communes, while quite a few wines showed a little raisiny on the nose. In several cases this was combined with gripping tannin. Perhaps this indicates prolonged hang time of the fruit in an effort from the producer to gain greater phenolic ripeness. It is unlikely that in these cases long bottle ageing will result in more complexity. Monforte d Alba made quite a confident impression, showing full-bodied, richly tannic wines, but at the same time richly fruity too. Quite a few Bussia wines, especially, showed lots of extract combined a good dollop of new oak. But it is hard to generalise about this cru, as since the introduction last year of Le Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive Ufficiali or official crus, Bussia has been unreasonably enlarged by incorporating adjacent vineyards into its demarcation. Hence, stylistic differences, due not only to winemaking, are inevitable here. On a more positive side: any producer who wants to mention a cru on the label, such as Bussia, is obliged to decrease the yield from that vineyard by 10% of what is standard and the minimum alcohol must be at least 0.5% higher than what is regulated for straight Barolo. The village of Barolo has produced the most elegant wines of 2008, with great extract, freshness, and a beautiful playfulness on the palate. The overall picture is one of excellent extract levels and good tannic grip, while some of the wines come dangerously close to being stewed. The best wines here are truly exceptional, although that is not to say that I didn t come across quite a few wines that I thought were rather modest and not living up to the name of this most famous of all the villages. Striking, too, was that this commune seemed to be the least enamoured with French oak compared with the others. Serralunga proved to be a true powerhouse in 2008 caused by marked, and at times dry, tannin. But it is not just brute force; the best wines combine that power with a fine balance. These tannin-charged wines need laying down, though. It was also in this commune that I noticed some very dark coloured wines, which I do not normally associate with Nebbiolo. Apparently, owing to the general coolness of the weather and the prolonged ripening period, polyphenols did accumulate. Ageing in new oak helps stabilise anthocyanins and can also contribute to the deep colour. I was particularly struck by the wines from the Magheria cru in this respect, which were impenetrable and so different from Nebbiolo s normally transparent ruby. But I must admit that I do remain a little suspicious every time I come across this type of wine.

3 New oak remains a notable feature in many a Barolo throughout the villages, and in combination with stewed fruit flavours (a feature I also noted on more than one occasion) this only seems to accelerate the ageing of the wines. During the actual tasting of some 350 Barolos, I asked the sommeliers quite a few times to have the same wine re-poured but from different bottles. But in many cases it was the wine, and not the particular sample, that showed dangerously oxidative already. Overripeness, ie raisiny fruit characteristics, is not something I readily associate with Barolo at a youthful stage. The noble complex dried-fruit and chinotto orange aromas need to develop slowly and not confront the wine taster as a sweet, impenetrable, raisiny wall. The problem of oxidative wine styles, together with quite a few cases of Brettanomyces, is something several producers will need to work on if they want to produce wine that can express their terroir without these blurring smells. But on the whole, arguably there isn t an Italian region that has reached such high overall quality and complexity as the Langhe, clearly showing it plays in the world league of fine wine. It s wine that deserves collecting and cellaring, and it is this strong proposition that the 2008 vintages offers. NOVELLO Marziano Abbona, Terlo Ravera 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Novello. Concentrated ruby with the beginning of orange. Quite ripe and sweet on the nose. pinch of spice from oak and hint of leather. Ripe, accessible and with lots of concentration. Big grainy tannin on the finish. Casetta 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Novello. Deep, still quite youthful ruby. Earthy, minerally and quite subdued Nebbiolo nose. Powerful but balanced palate with a restrained richness. Impressive tannic structure and long finish. Just not very complex yet. Elvio Cogno, Ravera 2008 Barolo 17 Drink Novello. Mid ruby with orange tinges. Ever so slightly reductive and minerally. Very restrained and a touch leafy on the palate. Fine Nebbiolo fruit just peeking up on the finish. Seems very closed and brooding. Lots of grainy tannin. Closes up again. Minerally finish. So slow! Le Ginestre, Sotto Castello 2008 Barolo 17 Drink Mid ruby with orange tinges. Fine Nebbiolo nose with notes of tea and minerally notes and a hint of cherry. Quite closed though. Concentrated, and powerful cherry palate. Very long. Powerfully tannic too. For laying down. Giacomo Grimaldi, Sotto Castello di Novello 2008 Barolo 17 Drink Novello. Concentrated maturing ruby. Balsamic and complex, leafy nose. Extremely youthful rich fruit framed by gripping tannin. Attractive oak note on a long finish. Substantial. Marenco 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Novello. Very dark ruby, almost impenetrable. Sped-up evolution, it seems, with ripe, dried fruit. Much more compelling on the palate, with good acidity and a tannic layer

4 contrasting the sweet fruit. Armando Piazzo 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Novello. Mid ruby with the beginning of orange. Fine sweet nose with black tea, herbs and sweet cherry. Same youthful sweetness on the palate. Dry tannin but will improve with some age. Very young and with good concentration. Le Strette, Bergera-Pezzole 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Novello. Deep, almost impenetrable ruby. Cherry and prune and a little bit of browning apple. Has this been too long in oak? Palate shows similar advanced development. Can be enjoyed now. BAROLO FROM MORE THAN ONE COMUNE Famiglia Anselma 2008 Barolo 14.5 Drink Barolo, Monforte d'alba, Serralunga d'alba. Maturing, mid ruby with orange tinge. Leafy, lifted and a touch herbaceous on the nose. Palate dominated by astringent tannin. Seems unripe. Ageing won t probably help a lot. Gianni Gagliardo, Serre 2008 Barolo 15 Drink La Morra, Barolo, Monforte d'alba, Serralunga d'alba. Mid ruby with orange rim. Lifted and a touch leathery. More focused on the palate with cherry fruit and stalky tannin. Ends a tad bitter, but has length. Gianni Gagliardo 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Grapes sourced from La Morra, Monforte d'alba, Barolo. Just mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Bit grubby and reductive. Dried fruit with some depth. Good acidity to keep it fresh, but aggressive tannin needs time to settle. Pio Cesare 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Grapes sourced from Serralunga d'alba, Grinzane Cavour, Castiglione Falletto, Novello. Mid ruby with orange rim. Sweetly perfumed dried fruit. Similar sweet driedfruit notes on an already accessible palate underlined by stalky tannin. Uncomplicated and appealing but not really for the long haul. Prunotto 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Grapes sourced from Barolo, Monforte d'alba, Castiglione Falletto. Only just mid ruby with broad orange rim. Not open yet, with spicy notes on the nose. Solid Nebbiolo fruit with stalky but not overpowering tannin. Terre da Vino, Essenze 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Grapes sourced from La Morra, Barolo, Novello, Serralunga d'alba, Monforte d'alba. Quite deep ruby with orange tinge. Sweet, oak-driven nose. Soft fruit attack with wellharnessed, dry tannin, but lacks a bit of that famous Nebbiolo bite. Terre da Vino, Paesi Tuoi 2008 Barolo 14.5 Drink Grapes sourced from Grinzane Cavour, Castiglione Falletto, La Morra. Tad lacklustre ruby with bricky rim. Brooding, dark and malty. Quite tough at first, followed by mellow fruit fragrance and a load of stalky tannin.

5 Terre del Barolo 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Concentrated ruby with orange rim. Very compact and unwilling on the nose. Grippy fruit palate with rustic, dry tannin. Not insanely long but satisfying. Probably better in a year or so. GRINZANE CAVOUR Bruna Grimaldi, Camilla 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Grinzane Cavour. Pale brick-stone ruby. Quite sweet, developed dried-fruit nose with a hint of shoe polish and black tea. Attractive lightness on the palate. Ends on creamy fruit and big tannin. Not knit together yet. Montaribaldi 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Grinzane Cavour. Mid ruby with dark centre. Quite leafy tobacco nose. Compact and not yet open on the palate. Quite stalky fruit and a tad astringent on the finish. Old school. Will this have enough fruit for the tannin to mellow out? RODDI Bruna Grimaldi, Bricco Ambrogio 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Roddi. Mature-looking mid ruby. Lifted and expressive nose. Sweet dried fruit promises sped-up evolution, but has good overall balance, length and well-judged tannin. Mid term. Negretti, Bricco Ambrogio Roddi 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Roddi. Quite deep, serious-looking ruby with orange tinges. Sweet and open knit with a layer of spicy oak. Perhaps a tad herbaceous? Good extract and balance with muscular powdery tannin. Not too complex though, but well built. VERDUNO Claudio Alario, Riva Rocca 2008 Barolo 14.5 Drink Verduno. Quite deep maturing ruby with bricky rim. Full blown, sweet dried-fruit nose with tobacco leaf notes underneath. Sweet, oaky fruit. A little bit contorted, and sweet. Fratelli Alessandria, Monvigliero 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Verduno. Quite deep ruby with brickstone rim. Intense, sweet and quite rich nose. Earthy too. Powerful palate with good balance, grip and length. Bel Colle 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Verduno. Concentrated ruby with orange rim. Quite restrained with interesting, minerally notes. Very young and compact and well balanced. Powerful tannin and brooding dried-fruit notes on finish. Lovely palate weight too. For laying down. Bosco Agostino, Neirane 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Verduno. Just mid ruby with broad orange rim. Very compact sweet fruit with a layer of muscular tannin and white pepper. Elegant palate weight, and great extract but

6 otherwise firmly closed. Castello di Verduno, Massara 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Verduno. Youthful mid ruby. Sweet and complex dried fruit with creamy oak. seems deceptively approachable and popular. Good balance and complexity. Quite easy going and with good acidity. Will undoubtedly improve. Comm G B Burlotto 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Verduno. Mid ruby with orange-tinged rim. Compact, herbal and a touch leathery. Very slow and subdued fragrant and well-balanced cherry fruit. Lots of stalky almost powdery tannin strikes a balance. Classic Barolo. Pietro Rinaldi 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Verduno. Deep ruby with orange tinges. Quite rich nose of cherry and generous, concentrated and richly tannic palate. Seems already quite mature on the fruit side but tannin needs to settle. Fragrant finish. Pietro Rinaldi, Monvigliero 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Verduno. Grilled meat and oak and ever changing in the glass. Cherry and Moroccan leather. Lovely palate weight with fine cherry and spice and lots of grainy tannin. Fragrant long finish. Very young and promising. Paolo Scavino, Monvigliero 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Verduno. Surprisingly deep ruby up to the rim with orange hints. Leafy notes. Elegant, concentred fruit and a good dose of boisterous tannin. Very, very young. BAROLO 460 Casina Bric 2008 Barolo 14.5? Drink Barolo. Lacklustre, concentrated ruby with orange tinges. Chalky shoe wax, and hints of dried fruit. Can t decide whether I like this or whether this is just unripe. Seems disharmonious with little fruit and lots of structure. Barale, Castellero 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Barolo. Mid ruby with orange-tinged rim. Sweet and modern. Slightly onedimensional and easy going. Already accessible. Serio e Battista Borgogno, Cannubi 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Barolo. Deep ruby with orange rim. Cherry, herbs, rhubarb and hints of white pepper. Gentle cherry palate with lifted acidity and rich tannin. Fragrant and elegant. Virna Borgogno, Cannubi Boschis 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Barolo. Concentrated maturing ruby with orange rim. Graphite, a hint of tar. Ripe and sweet and with pronounced dried-fruit notes, but in essence elegant. Before it becomes too overpowering gentle cherry turns up. Gritty but attractive, tactile tannin and a complex, long finish. Virna Borgogno, Preda Sarmassa 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Barolo. Very deep, youthful-looking ruby. Balsamic, fine nose followed by a sweet

7 and richly extracted palate with bittersweet, muscular tannin. Definitely needs more time. Ends a touch warm. Brezza, Bricco Sarmassa 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Barolo. Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Bright, leafy cherry nose with balsamic notes. Succulent fruit with coating tannin and a layer of spice. Elegant. Brezza, Cannubi 2008 Barolo Drink Barolo. Palish ruby with orange tinges. Wonderful cherry and strawberry fruit and a pinch of spice. Lots of extract supported by dry, structured tannin, but will integrate. Bric Cenciurio, Coste di Rose 2008 Barolo 17 Drink Barolo. Mid ruby with broader rim. Leafy cherry and hints of leather. Fine nutmeg note. Slightly stubborn cherry and orange fruit but great length, balance and extract. Cascina Bruciata, Cannubi Muscatel 2008 Barolo 14.5 Drink Barolo. Mature-looking deep ruby with brickstone rim. Quite ripe, stewed even. Very sweet and almost panna cotta-like fruit. Shame, really. Pretty much for immediate consumption. Cagliero, Ravera 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Barolo. Mid ruby with orange tinge. Savoury and spicy and a hint of band-aid. Multilayered cherry with great balance between acidity and stalky, but ripe tannin. Elegant and multifaceted finish. Lay down. Cavalier Bartolomeo, Cannubi San Lorenzo 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Barolo. Lacklustre deep ruby with orange tinges. Leafy, lifted cherry and raspberry compote. Round, balanced and succulent with just the right dose of firm tannin. Comm G B Burlotto, Cannubi 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Barolo. Mid to dark ruby with orange rim. Slightly reductive, overlaying the gentle fruit at this stage. Classic and certainly interesting, but in need of fine tuning. Damilano, Cannubi 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Barolo. Deep, lacklustre ruby. Complex perfumed, spicy nose. Quite rich and dense ripe fruit upholstered by lots of stalky tannin. A little bit upfront and sweet, but undeniably attractive and with good potential. Damilano, Liste 2008 Barolo 17 Drink Barolo. Deep ruby with brickstone rim. Complex nose of fruit, spice leather and hint of green walnut. Very backward and slow and with fine, complex aromas on the finish. Quite rich. Einaudi, Cannubi 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Barolo. Mid ruby with brickstone rim. Moroccan leather, earth and sweet strawberry fruit. Quite dense palate with stalky tannin. Perhaps not the most complex Cannubi, but has very good length.

8 Einaudi, Costa Grimaldi 2008 Barolo 14.5 Drink Barolo. Mid ruby, orange rim. Ever so slightly stewed, and contrasted by marked acidity and rather drying tannin. Angelo Germano, Mondoca Dardi 2008 Barolo Drink Monforte d Alba from the Cru Bussia. Very deep ruby up to the rim with orange tinge. Warm, sweet nose but quite compact and not willing to open up further. Hint of bandaid? Sweet fruit on the palate too, with coating tannin. Very ripe and generous offset by powdery tannin on the finish. Angelo Germano, Vigna Ruè 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Barolo. Lacklustre mid ruby with orange rim. Garden herbs. Savoury cherry and the merest suggestion of leather. Lots of extract and sweetness and elegant at the same time. Integrated acidity and ongoing, coating tannin. Great balance. Giacomo Grimaldi, Le Coste 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Barolo. Dark ruby beginning to mature. Spicy and savoury and almost exotic. Generous extract and richness with stalky tannin structure. Has both the bones and the stuffing. Marcarini, Brunate 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Barolo - La Morra. Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Touch herbaceous? Second sample seems quite closed with elegant, almost feather-light, fine strawberry fruit and lots of grainy tannin. Wait. Marchesi di Barolo, Sarmassa 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Barolo. Quite deep ruby with only the beginning of orange. Modern oak and fruit nose. Good extract but the oak determines the aromatics on the finish, at least for the moment. Well built and with wide appeal. Marchesi di Barolo, Cannubi 2008 Barolo Drink Barolo. Deep, youthful ruby. Creamy, popular oak nose and a layer of fruit. Lovely elegant weight and sweet, succulent strawberry still in the grip of that bold oak treatment. Very long and extracted and needs time. Bartolo Mascarello 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Barolo and La Morra. Mid crimson just beginning to lighten up on the rim. Very slow to emerge sweet fruit. Extracted and concentrated palate wrapping up quite bold tannin. Rich style but totally convincing. Mirafiore, Paiagallo 2008 Barolo 17.5 Drink Barolo. Deep, youthful ruby. Classic tea leaf and savoury, spicy cherry nose. Classy palate of red fruit with great balance and melting tannin. Terrific wine. E Pira di Chiara Boschis, Cannubi 2008 Barolo 17 Drink Barolo. Mid crimson. Spice and fine, sweet dried fruits. Lots of powerful grainy tannin framing a sweet cherry palate lifted by acidity. Quite complete, but the parts still need to integrate. Very long. Giuseppe Rinaldi, Brunate Le Coste 2008 Barolo 17 Drink Barolo. Youthful-looking mid ruby. Ripe cherry fruit with a bold tannic structure and

9 well balanced. Multilayered finish with lots of extract. Muscular. Giuseppe Rinaldi, Cannubi San Lorenzo Ravera 2008 Barolo 17+ Drink Barolo. Youthful-looking mid ruby. Quite sweet and monolithic at this stage. Lots of sweet, intense strawberry fruit overlaying dry tannin. Great stuffing and grip. Needs time. Francesco Rinaldi e Figli, Brunate 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Barolo - La Morra. Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Ripe, succulent fruit. Quite embryonic, but stuffing and balance is there. Francesco Rinaldi e Figli, Cannubbio 2008 Barolo Drink [Cannubbio in this case is spelt as the producer has it.] Barolo. Mid ruby with the beginning of orange. Herb liqueur, cherry and raspberry. Good balance and lovely lightness with great tactile grip. The best is yet to come. Le Strette, Bergeisa 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Barolo. Very deep ruby, almost impenetrable. Internationally styled with very ripe sweet fruit and oak. Ever so slightly oxidative it seems, and with for the moment astringent tannin. G D Vajra, Bricco delle Viole 2008 Barolo 17+ Drink Barolo. Cask sample. Deep, youthful ruby. Sweet red fruit and pepper. Multilayered, succulent and persistent sweet fruit. Dense without being heavy. Lots of promise for the future. CASTIGLIONE FALLETTO Cascina Adelaide, Pernanno 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Concentrated ruby with orange rim. Quite meaty, sweet and savoury dried-fruit opening. Quite ripe on the palate too, but with balancing acidity. Perhaps a little bit too uncomplicated. Boroli 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Just mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Sweet, gentle and quite creamy. A bit herbal too. Popular, but it works, if only just. Already approachable. Brovia, Rocche 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Just mid ruby with broad, orange-tinged rim. Quite balsamic and earthy. Medicinal. Seems a tad austere and at the same time a little overripe. Stalky tannin. Cavalier Bartolomeo, Altenasso 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Concentrated, almost dark ruby right up to the rim with orange tinge. Earthy, spicy, brooding fruit. Voluptuous, sweet strawberry palate with loads of stalky tannin as in contrast. Fratelli Cavallotto, Bricco Boschis 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink

10 Castiglione Falletto. Deep ruby with the beginning of orange. Cherry and orange and beginning of dried fruit. Sweet concentration matched with lifted acidity. Big, bold dry tannin. Very good, but will need time. Franco Conterno, Pugnane 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Only just mid ruby with broad orange rim. Complex and fine nose with a compact palate. Rich without being heavy, very young. Pretty, precise and yet to open up. Cordero di Montezemolo, Villero 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Deep ruby with orange tinge. A little bit herbaceous and a more than a hint of dried fruit. Quite dry tannin. Giacomo Fenocchio, Villero 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Mid ruby just beginning to show some orange. Intense strawberry and raspberry almost overpoweringly so. Dry bold structure on a long finish. Livia Fontana, Villero 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Savoury lifted. Ripe, rich and a little bit one-dimensional. Very extracted, big tannin. Ends rich. Fratelli Giacosa, Scarrone 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Deep, lacklustre ruby with orange tinge. Attractive spicy, savoury nose. Long, sweet cherry and raspberry palate with bold tannin. Massolino, Parussi 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Concentrated ruby with orange tinges. Lifted cherry nose. Lots of red fruit and cherry and well balanced with bitter sweet oak. Quite young but already appealing. Monchiero, Rocche di Castiglione Falletto 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Mid ruby with broad orange rim. Ever so slightly green on the nose. Dry oak with sweet fruit and contrasting highish acidity. Unsettled for the moment. Montanello 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Castiglione Falletto. From the Cru Montanello. Mid ruby with broader orange rim. Pleasant, gentle and not that complex. Quite popular and round until the dry tannin kicks in. Oddero, Rocche di Castiglione 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Mid ruby with broad orange rim. Pretty, perfumed and sweet and with a little bit of mocha and oak on a red and dried-fruit palate. Lots of grainy tannin and oak notes, which still need to integrate. Oddero, Villero 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Mid ruby with broad orange rim. Savoury tea leaf and tobacco. Slow to emerge on the palate. Brooding. Parusso, Mariondino 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink

11 Castiglione Falletto. Quite dark ruby. Intense, leafy sweet cherry and raspberry with a minerally layer. Lots of sweet concentration and density, and with creamy sweet oak notes on the finish. Ably made, but I don t think it needed all that oak. Very, very long. Roccheviberti, Rocche di Castiglione 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Mid ruby with broad brickstone rim. Green tea and raspberry with a hint of tobacco. Sweet and quite rich strawberry, but lacks finesse for the moment. Wait. Paolo Scavino, Bric del Fiasc 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Deep ruby with orange rim. Very closed. Lots of concentration on the palate. Good balance too. Francesco Sobrero, Ciabot Tanasio 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Castiglione Falletto. Deep ruby with orange rim. At first stalky on the nose. Quite ripe fruit. Pleasant and not too demanding. Swathes of tannin, though, but with impressive length. LA MORRA Crissante Alessandria, Galina 2008 Barolo 15 Drink La Morra. Concentrated ruby with orange tinges. Sweet and concentrated but lacks a bit of depth, perhaps the fruit was too ripe? Fierce tannin. Ballarin, Bricco Rocca 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Lacklustre ruby with orange-tinged rim. Sweet, ripe and intense nose contrasted by dense tannin. Wait. Enzo Boglietti, Fossati 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Barolo, La Morra. Very deep ruby with small orange rim. Meaty and savoury nose followed by a sweet ripe strawberry fruit palate. Fine palate weight too. Undeniably ripe, but on the right side of rich and bolstered by lots of grainy tannin. Bosco Agostino, La Serra 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink La Morra. Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Candied, cherry fruit and spice. Good complexity and length with muscular, drying tannin. Slow but with real depth. Very young. Camparo 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Concentrated ruby with orange-tinged rim. Ripe fruitcake nose but not without complexity. Pretty genuine on the palate, with elegant weight, but (oak) tannins seem rather dry. Wait. Casetta, Vigna Case Nere 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Concentrated ruby with the beginning of orange. Brooding complexity and multilayered and rich. Tad dusty too. Muscular but pretty, grainy tannin and has just enough acidity to keep it going. Ceretto, Bricco Rocche Brunate 2008 Barolo 14.5 Drink

12 La Morra. Deep ruby with orange-tinged rim. Stewed and herbaceous at the same time. perhaps it is oxidative. Very sweet finish. Two samples tasted. Unconvincing. Michele Chiarlo, Tortoniano 2008 Barolo 16 Drink La Morra. Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Sweet and ripe and with a touch of band-aid. Hints of marzipan. Fruit has good depth, but is not the most complex. Nice supporting acidity. Big, gripping tannin. Ciabot Berton 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. From the Roggeri, Bricco San Biagio and Rive vineyards. Lacklustre ruby with orange tinges. Soft and subdued raspberry fruit with good balance. Seems a little innocent for Nebbiolo. May come round. Ciabot Berton, Roggeri 2008 Barolo 16 Drink La Morra. Deep ruby with orange tinges. Creamy, sweet oak and dried fruit/fruitcake. Brash and modern and made in an accessible style. Low acidity, and gripping, full tannin. Cordero di Montezemolo, Gattera 2008 Barolo 15 Drink La Morra. Concentrated ruby with orange tinges. Very ripe and lifted (VA?). Marked acidity and bold tannin. Marco Curto, Arborina 2008 Barolo 16 Drink La Mora. Cask sample. Deep ruby with orange-tinged rim. Savoury, minerally and backward. Richly fruity with good balance and a good dose of grainy tannin. Quite ripe, but has some way to go. Marco Curto, La Foia 2008 Barolo 16 Drink La Morra. Cask sample. Concentrated ruby with orange tinges. Fruit cake, cherry and what looks like oak and with a good dose of that Nebbiolo tannin. Very well made. Mid term, it seems. Francone 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Mid ruby with broad rim. Starts off with a good dose of new oak, but Nebbiolo fruit creeps up. Very good extract and definition, and ends on creamy oak. Good tannin management. Popular appeal. Gagliasso, Torriglione 2008 Barolo 15 Drink La Morra. Dark ruby with orange rim. Full-throttle stewed, candied-fruit nose, and perhaps a little bit oxidative. Same dense fruit on the palate. All quite soft. For now, really. Gagliasso, Rocche dell'annunziata 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Concentrated ruby with orange-tinged rim. Rich and sweet and quite approachable. Consumer friendly. Silvio Grasso, Bricco Luciani 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Sweet ripe fruit and a pinch of oak. Very mellow and low in acidity. Not a lot of tension on the palate.

13 Silvio Grasso, Turnè 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Concentrated ruby with orange rim. Savoury oak nose. Sweet and mellow and easy going. Drying tannin on the finish, but fruit has upper hand. Not the most compelling Barolo, but good length. Grimaldi, Vigna San Biagio 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Just mid ruby with broad orange rim. Very, very closed. Seems in the grip of oak? Quite lightweight palate with fragrant finish. The big and astringent structure seems quite bold for this elegant wine. L'Illuminata, Tebavio 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Only just mid ruby with orange rim. Sweet oatmeal and fruitcake, already quite open. Pleasant, lightweight palate with attractive dried fruit. Firm finish, but already approachable and pretty much for now. Marcarini, La Serra 2008 Barolo 15 Drink La Morra. Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Balsamic, tending to fruitcake but otherwise quite closed on the nose. Reluctant on the palate too. Ripe with fairly modest acidity. Tannic crunch on the finish. Just not (yet) complex. Marco Marengo, Brunate 2008 Barolo 16 Drink La Morra. Deep, concentrated ruby with orange rim. Seems fairly accessible but there is complex, lingering fruit too, with a dense layer of ripe tannin. Gian Piero Marrone, Pichemey 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Mid ruby with the beginning of orange. Sweet and ripe dried fruit - perhaps a tad stewed. Straightforward, appealing and with muscular, grainy tannin. Mid term only. Good length, just not very complex (yet). Mauro Molino, Vigna Gancia 2008 Barolo 16 Drink La Morra. Dense mid ruby with orange tinge. Oaked sweet fruit. Lots of sweet extract and slightly bitter tannin. Attractively moulded, accessible and modern. Mauro Molino, Vigna Conca 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Deep ruby with orange rim. Sweet fruitcake and hints of sweet oak. Is there a little underripeness under all that sweet fruit? Good length though, but tannin is a bit dry. Cascina del Monastero, Bricco Luciani 2008 Barolo 15 Drink La Morra. Quite deep ruby with the beginning of orange. Firmly tannic and leathery. At the same straightforward and accessible and with only modest acidity. For now, it seems. Cascina del Monastero, Annunziata 2008 Barolo 15 Drink La Morra. Still quite youthful looking, deep ruby. Balsamic nose not giving away much. Very soft, round with a good dose of stalky tannin, but frankly a bit dull. Negretti, Mirau 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Deep ruby with orange rim. Brooding Nebbiolo fruit with notes of orange and iron. Good extract supported by stalky, dry tannin and surprisingly integrated acidity. Good length.

14 Andrea Oberto, Vigneto Brunate 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Concentrated ruby with orange tinge. Very ripe nose with dense fruit palate. Acidity peeks up on the finish. Andrea Oberto, Vigneto Rocche 2008 Barolo 16 Drink La Morra. Deep ruby with orange tinges. Very ripe fruit strikes a good balance between solid grainy tannin and acidity. Needs more bottle age. Luigi Oddero, Tenuta Parà 2008 Barolo 15 Drink La Morra. Concentrated ruby with the beginning of orange on broad rim. Slow to emerge Nebbiolo nose. Very stalky tannin dominates a medium-concentrated fruit palate. Tough finish. Wait? Vladimiro Rambaldi, Il Lauro 2008 Barolo 16 Drink La Morra. Deep ruby with orange tinge. Dense cherry fruit. Compact palate too, with good acidity and lots of powdery tannin. Good depth and complexity. Gianni Ramello, Rochettevino 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Cask sample. Serious looking, concentrated ruby with the beginning of orange. Lifted cherry and incense. Spicy, savoury fruit and rich tannin. Very closed and stubborn. Fully integrated acidity. Renato Ratti, Marcenasco 2008 Barolo 16 Drink La Morra. Quite deep ruby up to the rim with orange reflexes. Balsamic, savoury, perhaps a bit herbaceous even. Sweet, ripe fruit and surprisingly low in acidity. Stalky tannin delivers the contrast here. Very good length, but not built for eternity. Renato Ratti, Conca 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Deep ruby with orange rim. Seems lifted (VA?), monolithic and sweet. Wait. Rocche Costamagna, Rocche dell'annunziata 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Leafy raspberry and hints of tar. Bittersweet fruit. Strikes the balance just. Serradenari 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Lifted, leafy and a tad sour and leathery nose. Dusty (oak?) fruit palate with more complexity than the nose would have it. Grainy tannin. Improves a lot with air. Aurelio Settimo, Rocche dell'annunziata 2008 Barolo 17 Drink La Morra. Deep ruby with orange rim. Sweet raspberry and savoury, minerally notes. Very compact and young and concentrated. Opulent but stylish. Attractive, chewy and very long finish. Aurelio Settimo 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink La Morra. Mid ruby with broad orange rim. Oxo cube at first. Savoury. Hint of Moroccan leather. Marzipan cherry and grainy, muscular tannin. Lovely lightness on the palate.

15 Stroppiana, Vigna San Giacomo 2008 Barolo 16 Drink La Morra. Quite dark ruby with orange-tinged rim. Stalky notes of leather and tobacco leaf. Quite sweet and with just enough acidity to keep the fruit going. Lacks a little bit in class. Trediberri 2008 Barolo 15 Drink La Morra. Concentrated ruby with orange tinges. Sweet savoury dried-fruit nose and generous oak. Sweetness and extract underpinned by dry tannin. Needs time to soften out, but will the fruit keep its complexity in the process? Alessandro Veglio, Gattera 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink La Morra. Quite dark ruby with very small orange-tinged rim. Sweet, spicy and a tad stewed, but saved by good acidity. Dry, dusty tannin but otherwise consumer friendly. Alessandro Veglio 2008 Barolo Drink La Morra. Mid ruby with orange rim. Dusty, sweet oak sawdust and concentrated fruit nose. Lovely palate weight and length with powerful, grainy tannin. Dusty oak still needs to integrate more, but already looking very good. Mauro Veglio, Gattera 2008 Barolo 16 Drink La Morra. Maturing mid ruby with orange rim. Dusty, almost chalky and sweet but otherwise rather closed on the nose. Quite mature palate, with soft, rich fruit and low acidity. A tad astringent on the finish. Good length, just not complex (yet). Vietti, Brunate 2008 Barolo Drink La Morra. Deep ruby with small orange rim. Leafy cherry fruit and tobacco. Compact core of gripping tannin with sweet, ripe fruit and integrated acidity and with a very good length. Well made. Alberto Voerzio, La Serra 2008 Barolo 15 Drink La Morra. Very dark ruby with orange rim. Lifted (VA?) and with lots of concentration, but otherwise pretty straightforward and open knit. MONFORTE D ALBA Marziano Abbona, Pressenda 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Monforte d Alba. Touch leathery to begin with. Quite backward and rich, perhaps a little bit of this browning apple? Loads of tannin. Second sample less oxidised. Sweet and dense and lacks tension and complexity. Fratelli Alessandria, Gramolere 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Monforte d Alba. Deep ruby with orange tinges. Sweet lifted strawberry. Elegant palate weight. Huge concentration and length and very good balance. Very youthful and boisterous. Needs time to settle. Amalia 2008 Barolo 15.5? Drink Monforte d Alba. Deep ruby with orange reflexes. Quite multilayered, elegant. Concentrated, almost rich finish with a little bit of astringency.

16 Ballarin, Bussia 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Monforte d Alba. Deep ruby with orange tinges. Spicy cherry. Lots of sweet fruit extract, very good balance and grip. Huge, sweet finish. Barale, Bussia 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Monforte d Alba. Concentrated ruby with broader orange-tinged rim. Stalky and a little bit leathery. Strawberry fruit shines through. A bit tough on the finish. Silvano Bolmida, Bussia 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Monforte d Alba. Unusually dark ruby with orange tinges. Moroccan leather is a tiny bit too dominant on the nose for now. More fruit driven on the palate with nice lightweight feel, but ends a tad austere. Silvano Bolmida 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Monforte d Alba. Deep ruby with the beginning of orange. Quite leathery. Slightly sharp tannin. Looks like the fruit is in the grip of Brett. Ends on almost jammy strawberry. Has the concentration but it is all a bit rustic. Chicco, Rocche di Castelletto 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Monforte d Alba. Concentrated ruby with orange rim. On the right side of dried fruit. Dense, dry tannin but manages to maintain elegant palate weight. Colla, Dardi le Rose Bussia 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Monforte. Mid ruby with broad orange rim. Smoky bacon and camphor. Very mellow and round, lacks the real Nebbiolo tension and bite. Diego Conterno, Le Coste 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Monforte d Alba. Concentrated ruby with the beginning of orange reflexes. Iron, orange and strawberry. Fine elegant palate weight. Lots of concentration, very good balance and gripping but ripe tannin and oak, notably. Not for approaching right now. Franco Conterno, Bussia Munie 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Monforte d Alba. Concentrated ruby with orange-tinged rim. Quite closed and compact and with more than a hint of leather. Good acidity, but fruit could be a little bit fresher. Costa di Bussia, Campo dei Buoi 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Monforte d Alba. Cask sample. Lacklustre, concentrated ruby with orange on the rim. Sweet, almost jammy cherry and raspberry, but there is some complexity too. Round, rich, and more of that dried fruit on the palate. Has just enough acidity to pull it off. Costa di Bussia 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Monforte d Alba. Concentrated ruby with broader orange rim. Bold, lifted leather and spice. Much finer on the palate with elegant palate weight. A touch leathery still but more fruit driven. Lots of stalky tannin but there is freshness too. Duecorti, Castelletto 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Monforte d Alba. Concentrated ruby with small orange rim. Leafy, horse-saddle note. Nice gentle and concentrated sweet fruit without going over the top. Very dry tannin

17 though impression enforced by Brett? Giacomo Fenocchio, Bussia 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Monforte d Alba. Mid ruby with orange rim. Sweet raspberry and cherry fruit and a load of drying tannin on the finish. Livia Fontana, Bussia 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Monforte d Alba. Concentrated ruby with orange rim. Lifted orange and cherry and a little herbaceous. Elegant and sweetly concentrated. Bitter tannin. Long, sweet-sour cherry finish. Slightly confected? Fratelli Giacosa, Bussia 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Monforte d Alba. Mid ruby with just the beginning of orange. Fine lifted ethereal red fruit nose. Slightly strange dry raspberry attack. Drying tannin kicks in. Manages, just, to refrain from being jammy. Giovanni Manzone, Gramolere 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Monforte d Alba. Concentrated ruby with the beginning of orange. Cumin, cherry and iron. Balsamic. Concentrated, sweet fruit still looking for definition. Intense and perhaps a little bit too sweet for my taste. But it certainly has the stuffing. Monti, Bussia 2008 Barolo 14.5 Drink Monforte d Alba. Lacklustre, maturing mid ruby orange rim. Seems herbaceous and a little bit leathery? Quite sweet and lacking in contour. Monti 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Monforte. Maturing mid ruby with orange rim. Mid-palate weight and quite elegant, but the fruit is already quite evolved. Still, good balance and with lovely grainy tannin. Good length too, but for how long will this last? Parusso, Bussia 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Monforte d Alba. From the Vigna Munie, Vigna Rocche and Vigna Fiurin Bussia. Deep, youthful ruby. Sweet, oaky and quite dry on the finish. Overly ambitious winemaking? Very modern and with huge oak-dominated length coconut and caramel. Pecchenino, Le Coste 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Monforte d Alba. Deep ruby with orange rim. Balsamic raspberry nose with camphor notes. Sweet and rich and a little monotonous. But that may be just its youth. It does have length, though, just not very complex. Prunotto, Bussia 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Monforte d Alba. Pale orange-tinged ruby. Leather note masks the fruit on the nose. Pretty lightness on the palate with sweet strawberry fruit. Just enough acidity and savoury coating tannin. Pretty. Rocche dei Manzoni, Vigna Cappella di Santo Stefano 2008 Barolo 14.5 Drink Monforte d Alba. Deep, concentrated ruby with very small orange rim. Sweet and almost a touch oxidative fruitcake, hence new sample requested: All sweet oak and rich, sweet fruit. Overworked. Less is more.

18 Rocche dei Manzoni, Rocche 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Monforte d Alba. Deep ruby with small orange rim. Intense and opulent with a touch bacon. Rich dried fruit with elegant palate weight. Crunchy, sweet tannin. Quite a charmer. Seems to mature quickly? Ruggeri Corsini, Bussia 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Monforte. Very concentrated ruby with just the beginning of orange. Savoury and reluctant. Elegant palate weight, precise sweet fruit and huge tannin. Convincing. Ruggeri Corsini, San Pietro 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Monforte d Alba. Quite dark, youthful ruby. Sweet and ripe with notes of tea leaves and fruitcake. Dry palate but with good depth and genuinely fruity. Quite restless, dry tannin but Nebbiolo fruit determines the finish. Josetta Saffirio, Millenovecentoquarantotto 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Monforte d Alba. Unusually dark and youthful ruby right up to the rim. Hints of spicy oak, rich raspberry and a touch of graphite. Serious, concentrated, compact and well balanced, with a complex finish with a dollop of dry (oak) tannin. Much more Nebbiolo on the palate than on the nose. Deserves more time. Josetta Saffirio, Persiera 2008 Barolo Drink Monforte d Alba. Unusually dark, youthful ruby for Nebbiolo. Very concentrated but at the same time elegant and balanced. Dry tannin still to be absorbed in the rich, but focused fruit. Endlessly long. Simone Scaletta, Chirlet 2008 Barolo 13 Drink Monforte d Alba - Bricco San Pietro. Concentrated ruby with orange tinges. Lactic and beginning of oxidation. Clumsy. Seghesio, Vigneto La Villa 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Monforte d Alba. Lacklustre deep ruby with orange-tinged rim. Fine, ripe, and backward Nebbiolo. Ripe strawberry and cherry palate with just the right amount of acidity and muscular tannin. Quite impressive and certainly deserves more age. Sordo, Ceretta di Perno 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Monforte d Alba. Deep ruby with the beginning of orange. Almost jammy strawberry palate. but gripping tannin pulls it up. Long and intense and not that sweet on the finish. Stroppiana, Gabutti Bussia 2008 Barolo 14.5 Drink Monforte d Alba. Quite deep ruby with orange rim. Leather and a touch of Oxo cube. Little bit herbaceous. Grubby. Quite low in acidity. Mauro Veglio, Castelletto 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Monforte d Alba. Backward and intense. The very big, stalky, dry tannin is a perfect match for the richness. Ends on bitter sweet, dry tannin and mocha notes. SERALUNGA D ALBA

19 Claudio Alario, Sorano 2008 Barolo 14.5 Drink Serralunga. Dark, evolved-looking ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Tobacco and malty black bread. Sweet, ripe tobacco fruit. Lacks a little complexity, perhaps should have spent less time in oak? Sweet oaked fruit on the finish is a bit too overbearing. Giacomo Anselma, Collaretto Serralunga d'alba 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Dark ruby with broad orange rim. White pepper and a bit of horse saddle, which suppresses a little bit the fruit. Tad astringent for now, but finish shows complex Nebbiolo aromas. Ascheri, Sorano 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Dark ruby with a narrow orange rim. Minerally, graphite and blacktea nose. Very closed on the palate, elegant, light palate weight. Very good balance between sweet concentration, prominent acidity and well-managed grainy tannin. Ascheri, Sorano Coste & Bricco 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Serralunga d Alba with orange tinges. Concentrated, sweet raspberry and strawberry compote. Elegant light mouthfeel but seems a little hollow on the palate lacks a little bit of extract. Enzo Boglietti, Arione 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Impenetrable, almost blackish ruby. Very deep colour almost always indicates barrique ageing. New oak and sweet herb liqueur. Sweet and a bit popular, and dry oak tannin needs more time to integrate. Populist and a little bit over the top. Potentially overoaked. Brovia, Ca' Mia 2008 Barolo 17 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Deep, youthful ruby. Very young, backward and fine nose of red fruit and leather. Muscular, ripe structure. Elegant, the proverbial fist in the silk glove. Complex and aromatic finish. Lay down. Le Cecche 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Very dark ruby with orange rim. Very subdued, even a tad reductive, it seems. Sweet and a little bit one dimensional. Grainy tannin and absorbed acidity. Ceretto, Prapò 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Deep, youthful ruby. Quite modern, extracted and pushing the dried-fruit button, but not only that. A bit too sweet and dried fruit-like, and quite developed (looks like this is already becoming oxidative), but very good acidity. Perhaps a little bit simple. Cucco, Cerrati 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Very deep ruby with orange rim. Sweet chinotto and herb nose. Quite rich and full-bodied palate with a good dose of acidity. Sweet oak on the finish and coating tannin. Popular but well made, and more or less ready. Fontanafredda, La Rosa 2008 Barolo 15 Drink

20 Serralunga d Alba. Very deep ruby with orange-tinged rim. Baking spice and perhaps a tad herbaceous? Sweet oak, it seems, trying to even out a somewhat astringent, but sweet palate. Fontanafredda, Serralunga d'alba 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Deep, orange-tinged ruby. Sweet and very slow to open up. Cherry and tea leaves, iron and orange. Elegant mouthfeel, nothing heavy. Sweet concentration but otherwise not open yet. Stalky, tannic support. This will need time. Could perhaps be a little longer. Gemma, Colarej 2008 Barolo 14.5 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Very dark ruby with small orange-tinged rim. Intense dried fruit and loads of new oak. Seems very evolved and speedily ageing. More Langhe Nebbiolo than Barolo material? Lightweight. Gemma 2008 Barolo Drink Serralunga d Alba. Deep ruby with orange rim. First signs of maturation notes of tobacco. Good extract and sweet fruit, bitter powdery tannin and integrated acidity. Ettore Germano, Ceretta 2008 Barolo 17 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Very dark with orange rim. Savoury and minerally nose. Succulent fruit and a big mouthful of stalky tannin. Very young, very slow and lingering. Lots of concentration, but not overtly sweet. Elegant. Ends on a generous dose of tannin. Lay down. Ettore Germano, Prapò 2008 Barolo 17+ Drink Serralunga d Alba. Deep ruby with orange rim. Reserved and impenetrable on the nose like hitting a brick wall. Fine spicy edge, but totally backward. Minerally extract, fine, lingering raspberry and cherry with a massive but fine tannic structure. And yet so elegant. Great stuff. Luisin, Leon 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Dark maturing ruby with narrow orange rim. Very sweet and ripe fruit nose. Light-bodied feel with dry (oak) tannin. Paolo Manzone, Meriame 2008 Barolo 15.5 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Deep ruby with small orange rim. Very sweet and almost dense if it weren t for the elegant palate weight. Firmly in the dried-fruit corner, so not for the long haul. But there is good acidity to pull up the sweet fruit. Big tannin. Paolo Manzone, Serralunga 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Deep ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Minerally, graphite and perfumed, sweet dried fruit and raspberry. Chalky, dusty fruit with almost orange-like acidity and powdery, slightly drying tannin. Closes up on the finish. Lightness of touch, could perhaps be a little bit more concentrated but elegant, all the same. Massolino, Margheria 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Deep ruby with only the beginning of orange. Complex, dried fruit and raspberry nose. Finely tuned balance and length and with grainy, sweet tannin.

21 Palladino, Parafada 2008 Barolo 16.5 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Deep ruby with broad orange rim. Savoury, minerally, with ongoing sweet fruit impressions and waves of coating tannin. So easy to enjoy, with fine acidity, but should really be laid down. Palladino, Serralunga d'alba 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Cask sample. Dark ruby with orange rim. Chinotto orange and herb liqueur. Very compact and with a rather hard, sweet finish. Sweet dried fruit, and doesn t seem to be that complex. Pio Cesare, Ornato 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Very deep, almost impenetrable ruby with a narrow orange rim. Genuine Nebbiolo with lots of concentration and hints of vanilla. Modern, but got the substance and the tannic bite and complexity. The oak tannin adds to the dryness of the finish. Long, complex and backward. Luigi Pira, Margheria 2008 Barolo 17 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Very dark, impenetrable ruby. Very compact and young with a minerally edge. With air, perfumed and iron. Very compact and elegant. Sweet fruit still to open up. Profoundly tannic, but very ripe and grainy. Brooding complexity. Luigi Pira, Marenca 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Very dark, almost impenetrable. Brooding and backward. Deceptively open-knit attack. Hugely tannic perhaps a bit too much for its constitution? Guido Porro, Vigna S Caterina 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Deep, maturing ruby. Dusty and evolved tobacco and sweet red fruit followed by astringent, slightly bitter tannin. Not for the long haul, although tough tannin indicates otherwise. Guido Porro, Vigna Lazzairasco 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Concentrated, sweet Nebbiolo fruit, with almost completely integrated acidity. Grainy, muscular tannin. Good length, just not very complex (yet). Rivetto, Serralunga d'alba 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Almost impenetrable dark ruby with orange rim. Upfront sweet candied and dried fruit. A bit pasticceria-like. Flattering lightness of touch but not very concentrated and the fruit struggles a little bit with the dry tannin. Gigi Rosso, Arione 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Unusually dark, almost impenetrable. Rhubarb, spice and oatmeal on the nose. Round attack with quite absorbed acidity, but manages to strike a balance. Somewhat astringent finish. A little bit too innocent for me, except for the tannin, that is. Giovanni Rosso, Serralunga d'alba 2008 Barolo 13.5 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Deep ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Already dangerously

22 evolved nose with oxidative browning apple notes. Two samples tasted. Too long in oak for its own good? Flat finish. G D Vajra, Baudana 2008 Barolo 16 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Almost impenetrable ruby with small orange-tinged rim. Fine oak and sweet fruit. Accessible but with good complexity. Red fruit and fruitcake. Elegant, perhaps just a little bit too sweet and forward, but with a nice tannic crunch. Veglio Michelino & Figlio 2008 Barolo Drink Serralunga d Alba, Diano d Alba. Mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Spicy red cherry, Iron. good extract and pretty lightness of touch. A bit rustic but genuine, and with very good Nebbiolo expression. Vietti, Lazzarito 2008 Barolo 17+ Drink Serralunga d Alba. Deep, almost dark ruby with orange rim. Minerally, fine nose, but very compact and reluctant. Perfect balancing acidity. Fierce tannin, but it is elegance and power. Notes of orange and dried fruit. All-encompassing wine. Villadoria 2008 Barolo 15 Drink Serralunga d Alba. Mid ruby with broad orange rim. Seems ever so slightly evolved. Very closed, though. Sweet soft fruit with vanilla creaminess on the palate. Bit popular and for drinking now it seems. Tags: Nebbiolo, Barolo, Piemonte, Italy