LAFHAB GB2. Change men's colour. Session 4 of 6. Level 2 Barbering. Learner Name Date session started Date session finished

Transcription

1 GB2 Change men's colour Learner Name Date session started Date session finished Session 4 of 6 Level 2 Barbering

2 GB2.4.1a Colour and Light When looking at an object or at the colour of hair, what you are actually seeing is light reflected from the object or from the hair. White light is a mixture of many colours. The spectrum of colours is: Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Violet/purple Therefore, the colour of a solid object is dependent upon the absorption of some colours and the reflection of others. For example, a yellow flower is yellow because all the other colours in the spectrum (red, orange, green, blue and violet/purple) have been absorbed and only the yellow colour is reflected. Melanin is the natural colour pigment in hair and the hair colour we actually see in hair is dependent upon which pigment is not absorbed, but reflected. To illustrate simply, if all other colours except red are absorbed, it is red that is reflected from the surface of the hair, so the hair looks red. The surface of the hair is important. A smooth surface reflects light more easily. This means smooth cuticle scales will make the hair and its colour shine and appear more vibrant than dry brittle hair which may be the same colour. The colour spectrum can be remembered by the acronym: Richard Of York Gave Battle in Vain Remembering this will help you to place the colour in the correct order for the colour star.

3 GB2.4.1b The Colour Star The colour star (or circle) is made up of: Three primary colour Three secondary colours The three primary colours relating to pigment and hair colour are, red, yellow and blue. These colours cannot be made from any other colour hence the word primary or first. The secondary colours, which are made by mixing two primary colours together, are orange, green and violet/purple. Use coloured pencils to colour in the colour star The colour star is very important when choosing colour in the barbershop. It forms the basis of the colour chart.

4 GB2.4.1c The Colour Chart (International Colour Chart) What the eye transmits to the brain accounts for variations in a person s individual idea or perception of a colour. Some people will interpret the same colour differently to others. A client may ask for a new colour and describe it to you as golden blonde. You, in turn, will have your own idea about what golden blonde looks like, and may interpret the colour differently to the client. This would result in a disappointed client and an unsatisfactory result. Therefore, to overcome this problem, manufacturers follow a systematic method of defining colours on a colour chart. The system is known as the International Colour Chart (ICC). The colours on the colour chart are given numbers. The numbers represent: How light or how dark the colour is this is known as depth and The overall colour that is seen this is known as tone Depth can be described as light brown or dark blonde Tone can be described as warm colours copper, red, gold or cool colours - ash or matt. Therefore, every colour on the colour chart will have a number that represents the depth and tone of each colour. The numbers used to describe the depth of colour normally range from One being the darkest colour eg, black and 10 being the lightest colour eg, lightest blonde. The numbers (or letters) used to describe the tones of colour normally follow the depth number. It is important to recognise that while there are some similarities in the ICC numbering system from one manufacturer to another, there are also some differences. Some of the differences can be subtle, eg, the depth and the tone colour may be separated by: a point. (8.3) a slash / (8/3) a dash - (8-3) or not separated at all 83 or the depth may be a number and the tone may be a letter eg, 8G for gold on a depth on 8. All the above examples actually represent the same colour ie, light golden blonde. Explain that for most manufacturers, the 8 represents light blonde and the 3 (or G) represents gold

5 Activity GB2.4.1d Using the Colour Chart Your trainer will provide you with a colour chart. Working in pairs, use the chart to complete the following activity. Write down the numbers and the names of the colours you identify Find the natural depth of your partner s hair Find the natural tone of your partner s hair Find the artificial depth of your partner s hair Find the artificial tone of your partner s hair Find a colour that is one shade lighter than the natural depth of your partner s hair that has a golden tone Find a colour that is two shades darker than the natural depth of your partner s hair that has a copper tone Your partner would like to have some highlights or lowlights. Which three colours would you choose? Name and number of colour

6 GB2.4.2 How the natural pigment within the hair affects the choice of colour and colouring products and the possible need to pre-lighten The client s natural base shade will determine the outcome of the colour. The natural hair colour pigments are called melanin and the pigments responsible for; black and brown hair - eumelanin red and yellow hair pheomelanin Remember the final colour depends on the proportions of eumelanin and pheomelanin in the hair. Remember high lift tint will only lift the natural hair colour up to four shades and when the hair is lightened using high lift tint the smaller colour pigments (eumelanin) are removed but the larger pigments (pheomelanin) are more difficult to remove and they can become more noticeable for example; hair with a natural dark base that has a red or warm tone, when lightened using a high lift tint can sometimes look orange or yellow. Remember your earlier learning in GB when the hair is lightened using bleach it enters the cortex and the oxygen released from the hydrogen peroxide reacts with the natural colour pigments (oxidise) making the colour pigments colourless (oxy-melanin). Notes

7 Activity GB2.4.5 How porosity levels can affect the choice and application of products and the results of the colouring process Remember - Hair with poor porosity will absorb colour differently to hair that has good porosity Fill in the details Hair Condition Good porosity Poor porosity Uneven porosity Suitable Products Application of colour Expected colour result Uneven porosity; the ends of the hair are dry and brittle but the mid lengths and roots are in good condition Good porosity; the hair is in good condition Poor porosity; hair that is chemically damaged or heat damaged

8 Handout - (1 of 2) GB2.4.3 The effects of colour and lightening products on hair structure Temporary colour Large colour molecules on the outside of the cuticle. Semi-permanent colour Large and small colour granules penetrate the cortex and lie on the outer edge of the cortex.

9 Handout - (2 of 2) GB2.4.3 The effects of colour and lightening products on hair structure Quasi colour The addition of a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide allows colour to enter cortex. Permanent colour Tiny colour granules are mixed with hydrogen peroxide. The colour granules well and become trapped in the cortex. Bleach Natural colour molecules (melanin) are oxidised to form colourless oxy-melanin.

10 GB2.4.4 Hydrogen Peroxide Hydrogen Peroxide is mixed (in various strengths) with quasi and permanent hair colours. It is an unstable chemical that will decompose and form water in the following circumstances: If air is allowed to get into it If stored in direct sunlight If it gets hot If dust is allowed to get into it. Therefore stress that hydrogen peroxide should be stored upright, in a dark, cool place, with the lid firmly in place. Hydrogen peroxide is flammable and should be stored away from flame and heat. As with all chemicals PPE must be worn when using hydrogen peroxide. There are two types of hydrogen peroxide: Cream Liquid. The strength of hydrogen peroxide can be measured and expressed as either: Volume Percentage. 3% is the same strength as 10 volume 6% is the same strength as 20 volume 9% is the same strength as 30 volume 12% is the same strength as 40 volume 18% is the same strength as 60 volume The use of 18% or 60 volume is prohibited in Europe. How is the hydrogen peroxide measured in your own barbershop? Strengths of Hydrogen Peroxide The different strengths of hydrogen peroxide are used with different products to provide different amounts of lift. It is important to use the strength and type of hydrogen peroxide that is recommended by the manufacturer. You must always follow the manufacturers instructions that go with the product you are using. As a general rule: 3% or 10 volume Used for quasi colour 6% or 20 volume Used with permanent colour to achieve one shade of lift or to colour white hair 9% or 30 volume Used with permanent colour to lighten up to three shades 12% or 40 volume Used with some permanent colours (normally high lift) to lighten up to four shades Hydrogen peroxide can be diluted to make a weaker strength. Distilled water must be used for this process as tap water may have additives that could

11 Activity GB2.4.4 Diluting Hydrogen Peroxide (1 of 2) affect the result of the colour. To calculate the dilution of hydrogen peroxide use the following method: Example 1 There is only 40 volume hydrogen peroxide in stock and 30 volume hydrogen peroxide is required. Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4 Take the strength required from the strength in stock = 10 The first number of the answer tells you how many parts of water are required (1 part) To determine the number of parts hydrogen peroxide is required, use the first number of the volume strength required. In this case as the strength required was 30 volume, it is 3 parts that are required. Mix 1 part water with 3 parts of 40 volume hydrogen peroxide to achieve 30 volume peroxide. Example 2 There is only 30 volume hydrogen peroxide in stock and 10 volume hydrogen peroxide is required Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Take the strength required from the strength in stock = 20 The first number of the answer tells you how many parts of water are required (2 parts) To determine the number of parts hydrogen peroxide is required, use the first number of the volume strength required. In this case as the strength required was 10 volume, it is 1 part that is required. Step 4 Mix 2 parts water with 1 part of 30 volume hydrogen peroxide to achieve 10 volume peroxide.

12 Activity GB2.4.4 Diluting Hydrogen Peroxide (2 of 2) Now calculate the following: 1. From 30 volume hydrogen peroxide, make 20 volume 2. From 40 volume hydrogen peroxide, make 20 volume 3. From 20 volume hydrogen peroxide, make 10 volume 4. From 40 volume hydrogen peroxide, make 10 volume Notes

13 GB2.4.6 Factors (1 of 3) The following factors will influence your choice and application of colour products: Temperature Existing colour of the hair The percentage of white hair The test results The strength of hydrogen peroxide The porosity of hair The length of hair The skin tone. Temperature Temperature can affect colouring in two ways: 1. The temperature of the barbershop 2. The heat that is released from the scalp. The temperature of the barbershop The barbershop or additional heat can affect colouring services. A warm barbershop will speed up the processing time of a colour A cool barbershop will delay the development of colour Heat is sometimes added to achieve a quicker, lighter result this is very common with highlift colour. However, be aware that additional heat must only be used if recommended by manufacturers instructions. Too much heat will lead to over processing of colours and damage to the hair structure. Additional heat must not be applied to many bleach products. Heat will cause the product to develop very quickly, which can lead to damage to the hair and scalp. Always read manufacturers instructions. Body Heat A great deal of body heat is lost through the head. Therefore, body heat can affect the application of colour products. As the head is warmest at the root area, the colour will develop more quickly there than on the mid lengths and ends of the hair. Therefore, when colouring hair lighter for the first time (a virgin head application), the hair has to be coloured in the following order to ensure an even result. 1. Mid length of the hair 2. Ends of the hair 3. Roots. Failing to use this method of application when lightening virgin hair will result in root glow ie, where the colour at the roots is brighter and lighter than the mid lengths and ends of the hair. When colouring virgin hair darker, the colour can be applied from roots to ends in one application.

14 GB2.4.6 Factors (2 of 3) Existing colour of the hair The starting point for colour consultation is the existing colour of the client s hair. The existing colour may be: Natural Artificial. A colour product must be chosen to suit the requirements of, and work within the limitations of, the existing colour. The percentage of white hair The percentage of white hair will determine the choice of colour. For example: white hair can only be completely covered by using a permanent colour warm/red/copper temporary and semipermanent colours cannot be used on white hair as the resultant colour will be too bright the brighter, warmer shades of some permanent or quasi colours have to mixed with natural/base colours to prevent the final result being too bright. The test results Only hair that is in good condition should be treated with colour. The appropriate tests must be carried out and the results recorded on a client record card. Can you remember how to carry out the tests required for colouring covered in session two? The strength of hydrogen peroxide The strength of hydrogen peroxide to be used will be determined by the following: The existing colour of the client s hair The amount of lift (or lightness) required The amount of white hair that is present The type of colour that is being used The recommendations made by the product manufacturer. The porosity of hair The degree of porosity will have an effect on the finished result of the colour. Hair that is very porous will absorb more colour than hair that is resistant. Therefore, if allowances are not made, the colour result will be uneven.

15 GB2.4.6 Factors (3 of 3) The length of hair The length of hair will determine the amount of colour that is to be used: Long hair will require more product than short hair. In addition, the length of hair will determine the application of colour when lightening virgin hair. For example, on hair that is to be coloured lighter and is shorter than 6cms, the mid lengths and ends can be coloured at the same time, before colouring the roots of the hair. The skin tone Explain that the colour of the skin must be considered during client consultation. The colour of the hair should complement the tone of the skin. For example: A client with very red skin colouring should be advised against having red colours on their hair, but to choose a colour that will neutralise and cool down the high colour of the skin A client with very pale skin should be advised to avoid very dark colours on their hair. These would lead to the client looking even paler and drained. Notes

16 GB2.5.7 Using stock economically All commercially operated barbershops must be profitable, and when a barbershop owner creates a price list she/ he takes many factors into consideration, one of which is the cost of products. Manufacturers make recommendations about the amount of product that should be used. Explain that if they are careless and use more than is necessary they reduce the profit margins. This in turn leads to loss of jobs. There is another, very important, reason for using correct amounts: If too much colour is used (especially in foils, wraps or packets). The colour could leak out onto the scalp, and cause damage to both the hair and scalp. However, for some colour applications (especially highlift colours) if too little colour is used, ie, insufficient colour on the hair the end result will be unsatisfactory. Therefore, you must always read and follow manufacturers instructions and recommendations for the amount of colour that is used on the hair. State the approximate amount of tint you would use for a regrowth application. Maintaining Stock Levels It is also important to maintain stock levels. If you use more than the required amount of any product, the product will soon run out. This can result in loss of business. Clients will go elsewhere if they are unable to have their colour service because the barbershop does not have sufficient quantities of the product required. How does stock control work in your barbershop? Who do you report low levels of stock to?

17 Session 4 GB2 Change men s hair colour Learner Check Session 4 1. Name the colour of the spectrum. 2. State the three primary colours. 3. What does ICC stand for? 4. What is depth? 5. What is tone? 6. State the effect on the hair structure of a semi-permanent hair colour. 7. State the effect on the hair structure of permanent colour. 8. State how long a temporary colour will last. 9. State the storage requirements for hydrogen peroxide. 10. State the application method when colouring virgin hair, lighter Why is it important to emulsify colour prior to removing it? 11 Copyright Habia All rights reserved.