Level 3 Advanced Technical Diploma in Hairdressing (540) ( )

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1 Level 3 Advanced Technical Diploma in Hairdressing (540) ( ) Sample test Total marks: 60 Duration : 80 minutes

2 (S1 Ref.2.1) Knowledge Q1a. Label the diagram of the skin. (3 marks) Q1a. Answer, 1 mark for each of the following: A = Sebaceous gland B Hair follicle C = Dermis (S1 Ref.2.1) Knowledge Q1b. Describe two functions of the cuticle layers of the hair. (2 marks) Q1b. Answer, I mark each for any two of the following: Protects the inner structure (cortex, medulla) of the hair from damage Helps maintain moisture levels within the hair (for good elasticity) Helps support the strength of the hair Helps maintain even porosity Helps to regulate entry of chemicals to the cortex (S1 Ref.1.1) Knowledge Q2a. State two main requirements of the Working Time Directive. (2 marks) Q2a. Answer 1 mark each for reference to any two of the following:

3 Minimum daily, weekly rest breaks Maximum average hours per working week, 48 hours (may make reference to age group) Mandatory right to paid annual leave of at least 28 days (including bank holidays) (S1 Ref.1.1) Knowledge Q2b. State two requirements of the Consumer Protection Act. (2 marks) Q2b. Answer 1 mark each for reference to any two of the following: Description of products/services must not be misleading Products/services must be of a satisfactory quality Products/services must be fit for its intended purpose. (S1 ref.2.1) Knowledge Q3a. Describe each of the following disorders: Traction alopecia Keloid (5 marks) Q3a. Answer, 1 mark each for any five of the following; must have at least one from each disorder for full marks. Traction alopecia Traction causes hair to loosen from the follicle/roots causing thinning of the hair to the area prolonged tension will damage the hair follicle resulting in permanent localised baldness. Keloid Over grown scar tissue that develops around a wound the skin produces too much collagen and continues to produce it (S1 ref.2.1) Understanding Q3b. Give two examples of how traction alopecia might affect hairdressing services: (2 marks) Q3b. Answer, 1 mark each for any two of the following (or any justified examples): The style will require adapting to help disguise the bald/thinning area select a style with no tension to the affected area some services will not be able to go ahead (eg hair extensions, braiding) (S1 ref:1.2) Knowledge Q4. Give four examples of environmental and sustainable working methods in a salon environment (4 Marks) Q4. Answer, 1 mark each for reference to any four of the following:

4 Recycle in line with local government requirements Minimise wasteful use of utilities Use eco-friendly products where possible Noise pollution - volume of music/sounds Adequate ventilation (specific examples are accepted) Case study A client requests a graduated bob. Her hair has the following factors to consider: wavy hair low front hairline (H1 ref:2.1) Understanding Q5a Explain how to adapt cutting techniques to achieve the desired look (6 marks) Q5a.Answer Band 1 (1-3 marks) Candidates will have made reference to one or both factors with no or limited qualifying detail on how to adapt cutting techniques, or style Band 2 (4-6 marks) Candidates will have made reference to both factors with a broad range or extended qualifying detail on how to adapt cutting techniques and style. With reference to: Wavy hair Use of freehand cutting to: create guidelines reduce tension to allow for the protrusion of the ears when finalising the finished cut to give the appearance of balance and accuracy in line with the natural wave of the hair Texturising: the ends of the hair length to reduce bulk if required to add gentle layers if the natural wave gives too much bulk Carryout the cut on wet hair: leave the hair length longer to allow for the natural wave adjustment that gives the appearance of being shorter when dry keep the hair evenly wet throughout the cut avoid too much tension on the hair when cutting Low front hairline A fringe needs to be considered, adapt the style to give a short, light, textured fringe adapt the style to give a short blunt sharp fringe create the bob without a fringe (H1 ref: 2.4) Understanding Q5b. Give one example of the aftercare advice that you would give to the client following the graduated haircut. (1 mark) Q5b.Answer Any one of the following provided with an example that is relevant to the case study:

5 how to re-create the look between salon visits suitable professional products for home use suggested time intervals between cuts to maintain the graduated bob look other salon services that might complement/benefit the look. Understanding Q6. Describe the structural effect on the hair caused by: blow drying hair humidity on the finished style (5 Marks) Q6. Answer 1 mark each for reference to any five of the following, both must be covered to gain full marks. Blow drying hair Temporary hydrogen bonds that join the polypeptide chains are broken by stretching and addition of heat during the blow dry as the hair is dried, the hydrogen bonds join the polypeptide chain again in a new position when hair is cooled the hydrogen bonds harden into beta keratin. Humidity Hair is 'hygroscopic' hair has the ability to absorb moisture from the air Humidity breaks down the hydrogen bonds On styled hair the hydrogen bonds will reform to alpha keratin causing the style to drop. (H2 ref: 2.1) Understanding Q7a. Explain oxidation during the permanent hair colour process. (3 Marks) Q7a. Answer, 1 mark each for reference to any three of the following: hydrogen peroxide (oxidising agent) is mixed with permanent hair colour (para dye), hydrogen peroxide will dissolve salt crystals in the tint cream, oxygen is released, colour molecules expand and become trapped in the cortex (H2 ref: 2.1) Knowledge Q7b State the ph of each of the following: Para dye Powder lighteners Toners Q7b. Answer, 1 mark each for reference to the ph within the following range: (3 Marks) Para dye ph Powder lighteners ph10 11 Toners ph

6 (H2 ref: 2.3/H4 ref: 2.3) Understanding Q8a. Explain the reasons why the following might be carried out: pre-softening pre-pigmenting (4 marks) Q8a Answer, 1 mark each for reference to any four of the following (both must be covered to gain full marks): Pre-softening to enable colour to penetrate resistant hair/white hair to lift the cuticle layers allow improved product penetration into the cortex Pre-pigmenting To replace lost pigment/colour fill To avoid greenish tones To add depth and help prevent colour fade/patchy results (H2 ref: 2.3) Understanding Q8b Give two reasons why a toner might be used after lightening hair. 8b. Answer 1 mark each for any two of the following: (2 Marks) To add subtle tones To help neutralise any unwanted remaining warm tones To add tone without causing any further damage to the hair structure (H4 ref: 2.3) Understanding Q9. Explain how darkened colour banding can be corrected. (4 Marks) Q9. Answer, 1 mark each for the correct product (maximum 2 marks) 1 mark each for the explanation (maximum 2 marks), total of 4 marks. Apply colour reducer / lightener to the affected area lift to slightly lighter depth than the target colour Apply permanent colour with a low peroxide strength - of the target depth and tone/ or tone to neutralise Case study A client has returned from holiday with colour fade on the mid-length and ends of her hair. She would like to keep the lighter sun kissed colour, but is unsure about the darker roots. She also mentions that she had a tattoo whilst she was away. (H2 ref:2.2/2.3) Stretch Q10a. Discuss the following: o colouring and lightening techniques that could be used to maintain the effect o tests that might be carried out and the expected results

7 o how the test results may impact the service and the advice that should be given (12Marks) Q10a Answer Band 1 (1-4 marks) Candidates will have stated one or more considerations with no or limited qualifying detail. Band 2 (4-8 marks) Candidates will have discussed three or more considerations with two or more qualifying detail Band 3 (7-12 marks) Candidates have discussed four or more considerations with a broad range or extended qualifying detail. Candidates discussion may include, but not be limited to, the below considerations with qualifying details Colouring and lightening techniques slicing / weaving: o with natural hair colour to break up some of the mid-length and ends o with warm tones into the faded area to break up some of the fade and blend with the roots a little o with a lighter colour(s) added to the darker root area to breakup some of the dark root area o a mixture of dark and light shades to balance the look balayage / ombre: o apply a lighter colour to the mid-lengths when there is growth o apply a lighter colour in the root area underneath the crown area/side and back of the head Tests that might be carried out and the expected results Skin test : o There is a risk of a reaction because of the tattoo Incompatibility: o There should be no reaction, unless the client has used a product on their hair that might cause this Porosity: o Poor porosity on the ends as a result of environmental damage o Uneven porosity, progressively deteriorating from the root area to the ends Elasticity: o Hair affected by the environment may not have good elasticity How the test results may impact of the service Skin test reaction: prevent the use permanent and quasi permanent colouring products lighteners and some semi-permanent products may be accessible Skin test with no reaction: the service can go ahead as agreed with suitable products for the desired outcome The client should be advised of: what the result means the effects achievable using different/suitable products to have another skin test in a few months

8 before any permanent/quasi permanent colouring products are used Incompatibility reaction: Colour service cannot go ahead Incompatibility no reaction: the service can go ahead The client should be advised of: what the result means if a reaction recommend use of conditioning treatments/leave in conditioners Porosity: Very porous, carryout a course of conditioning treatments before carrying out the service Use a pre-chemical treatment to even out the porosity The client should be advised of: How poor porosity might affect colour durability Shampoos and conditioners for home use How to prevent further physical/environmental damage Elasticity: Good elasticity the service can go ahead Poor elasticity the colour service cannot go ahead until the hair is in better condition The client should be advised of: How poor elasticity might affect colour durability Recommended treatments Shampoos and conditioners for home use How to prevent further physical/environmental damage

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