Consultation Tools. The Educational Tool Kit. Porosity: The hair s ability to absorb moisture and liquids.

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1 Consultation Tools The Educational Tool Kit. Porosity: The hair s ability to absorb moisture and liquids. To explain porosity in the hair you need the following items: Wax paper, Construction paper, Paper towel. (Cut into strips) Line up a strip of each paper in a row and spray water on them. The wax paper is an example of low porosity hair, construction paper is an example of porous hair, and the paper towel is an example of overly porous hair. Show the guest which degree of porosity best describes their hair. Elasticity: The hair s ability to stretch & contract without damage or breakage To explain elasticity you will need a new rubber band and an old rubber band. Demonstrate elasticity by stretching the two rubber bands and observing the difference in results between the two. Layers of the Hair: Use an unsharpened pencil to show the cuticle, cortex, and medulla layers of the hair. Explain the function of each.

2 Curl Shape and Strength: You will need a Slinky to show curl strengths. Consultation Tools Curl shape is determined by the tool used to wrap the hair around. (Perm rod, curling iron, hair brush, etc.) Curl strength is the amount of spring or snappiness that the perm is going to create in the hair. As applied to texture services, the curl strength varies based upon which chemistry (Perm Formula) you choose. There are Four Degrees of Curl Strength: SOFT BODY: would be the type of curl that when the hair is wet you comb through, it does regain its shape but with a delayed reaction. There is no lift or volume at the scalp, just overall soft movement. The coils are very far apart. Soft body is generally recommended for shorter hair. Longer hair would have too much weight to support the curl. This is created by choosing an Acid formula. Medium: offers more versatility. This would be the type of curl that when you comb through it and release it, the curl regains its shape but rebounds noticeably slower than the Firm. You still get some lift and volume off the scalp but the coils are now even further apart. This is created from an Acid, Ammonia Free/Low Thio and Thio Free/Damage Free formulas. Firm: is just a bit more elongated curl still really springy but it s a little bit more moveable and workable. This would be the type of curl that when you comb through it and release it, the hair springs back up but not as quickly as the Ultra Firm. The coils are further apart. This is crated by choosing an Alkaline formula. Ultra Firm: is a really springy curl, it creates a lot of lift and volume off the scalp. It would be the type of curl that when the hair is wet and you comb through it, as soon as the comb releases the hair it springs back up really quickly. The coils are compacted closely together. This is created by choosing an Exothermic formula. Stretch the Slinky to demonstrate the varying degrees of curl strength

3 Varying Degrees of Curl Strength

4 Perm Chemistry Acid Waves Active ingredient: Glyceryl Mono Thioglycolate (GMT) Glyceryl Assists in producing a conditioned finished feel Mono One molecule reacts with Glycerin Thioglycolate Responsible for reducing or breaking the necessary number of bonds in the cortex. GMT penetrates the hair shaft gently due to the large size of its molecules. Acid waves produce soft, versatile curl and are designed to work on normal to multiple porosity hair types (tinted/highlighted).

5 Perm Chemistry Alkaline Waves Active Ingredient: Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG) Ammonium Completes the molecule so Thio can function effectively. Represents free Ammonia which aids in faster and more effective penetration into the hairshaft. Thiglycolate Responsible for reducing or breaking the necessary number of bonds in the cortex. ATG contains smaller molecules that enter the hairshaft more aggressively than GMT (acid) chemistry. Alkaline waves produce firm curls and are designed to work on normal, resistant and tinted/resistant hair types.

6 Perm Chemistry Exothermic Waves Active Ingredient: Ammonium Thioglycolate & Hydrogen Peroxide. This technology is an Alkaline Base that is mixed with a low volume hydrogen peroxide to create a chemical heat reaction. This causes the cuticle to soften and open more readily allowing the molecule to enter the hairshaft more aggressively than an acid or alkaline chemistry. Exothermic waves produce ultra firm curls and are designed to work on normal, resistant and tinted/resistant hair types.

7 Perm Chemistry Damage Free/Thio Free Active Ingredient: Cysteamine These cysteamine formulas are comprised of smaller molecules and a positive magnetic charge that easily and gently penetrate the hairshaft, leaving the cuticle damage free. Cysteamine waves produce versatile, natural looking curls and are designed to work on normal/resistant and multiple porosity hair.

8 Perm Chemistry Ammonia Free/Low Thio Waves Active Ingredient: Cysteamine & Ethanolamine Thioglycolate (CET) Cysteamine has a positive magnetic charge and is attracted to the hairshaft which allows it to diffuse gently into the hair, resulting in minimal damage to the cuticle. This technology combines with Ethanolamine which allows for controlled penetration into the hairshaft and less swelling of the cuticle. Ammonia free/low thio waves produce soft to medium, natural looking resilient curls and are designed to work on a variety of hair types and porosities normal, resistant, tinted and lightly highlighted.

9 Zotos Perm Selection QUANTUM CLASSIC BODY Curl Strength: Soft Body Hair Type: Normal to porous, multiple porosity up to 40% highlighted with 20 volume peroxide, previously permed. Ideal For: Style support, look of natural curl, short hair, first time permers. QUANTUM EXTRA BODY Curl Strength: Medium/Versatile Curl Hair Type: Normal to porous, multiple porosity up to 40% highlighted with 20 vol. peroxide, previously permed. Ideal For: Well defined workable curls, easy to maintain air dry. QUANTUM FIRM OPTIONS Curl Strength: Firm Hair Type: Normal to resistant, tinted resistant (20 vol. peroxide or less), moderate porosity. Ideal For: Styles with noticeable movement and texture, long/heavy hair. QUANTUM ULTRA FIRM Curl Strength: Ultra Firm Curls Hair Type: Normal to resistant, tinted resistant (20 vol. peroxide or less), low porosity. Ideal For: Styles with well defined springy curls, long/heavy hair.

10 Zotos Perm Selection QUANTUM PLATINUM Curl Strength: Soft Body Hair Type: High porosity, over 40% highlighted, high lift tint (up to 40 vol. peroxide) double process, bleached. Ideal For: Style support, look of natural curl, short hair, first time permers. QUANTUME HYDRA BALANCE Curl Strength: Firm Hair Type: Normal to porous, tinted 20 vol. peroxide. Hair lacking moisture, previously permed, gray hair, mechanically or environmentally stressed, pre teens/teens. Ideal For: Styles with noticeable movement and texture. QUANTUM TT PURPLE RING ACID PERM Curl Strength: Medium/Versatile Curl Hair Type: High porosity over 40% highlighted, high lift tint (up to 40vol. Peroxide) double processed, bleached, previously permed. Ideal For: Well defined workable curls, easy to maintain air dry. QUANTUM TT BLUE RING ACID PERM Curl Strength: Medium/Versatile curl Hair Type: Normal to moderate porosity, multiple porosity up to 40% highlighted with 20vol. Peroxide. Ideal For: Well defined workable curls, easy to maintain air dry.

11 Zotos Perm Selection QUANTUM INSITE NORMAL FORMULA Curl Strength: Medium/Versatile Curl Hair Type: Normal to moderate porosity, Semi/Demi Permanent color (up to 10 vol. peroxide). Ideal For: Well defined workable curls, easy to maintain air dry. QUANTUM INSITE RESISTANT FORMULA Curl Strength: Medium/Versatile Curl Hair Type: Normal to low porosty Ideal For: Well defined workable curls, easy to maintain air dry. Soft texture and added volume. Damage free perming. QUANTUM INSITE DELICATE FORMULA Curl Strength: Medium/Versatile Curl Hair Type: Normal to porous, multiple porosity up to 40% highlighted, up to 30 vol. peroxide. Previously permed. Tinted Hair (up to 30 vol. peroxide), highlighted hair up to 40% (up to 30 vol peroxide or bleach). Ideal For: Well defined workable curls, easy to maintain air dry. Soft texture and added volume. Damage free perming.

12 Zotos Perm Selection TEXTURE EFX NORMAL Curl Strength: Medium/ Versatile curl Hair Type: Normal to low porosity Ideal For: Well defined workable curls, easy to maintain air dry. Soft texture and added volume. Damage free perming. TEXTURE EFX COLOR TREATED Curl Strength: Medium/ Versatile Curl Hair Type: High porosity, over 40% highlighted, high lift tint (up to 40 vol. peroxide) double processed, bleached, Previously permed. Ideal For: Well defined workable curls, easy to maintain air dry. Soft texture and added volume. Damage free perming.

13 ph= 0 1 Drain Cleaner = ph 0.1 Sulfuric Acid = ph 0.3 ph= 2 3 Classic Coke ph 2.5 Vinegar(5%acid) ph2.4 Lemon Juice ph 3.0 Apples ph 3.0 Wines ph ph = 4 5 Tomatoes ph 4.5 Carrots ph 5.0 Black Coffee ph 5.0 ph = 6 7 Milk ph 6.6 Distilled Water ph 7.0 Eggs ph 8.0 Baking Soda ph 8.3 ph= 8 9 Borax ph 9.0 Milk of Magnesia ph 10.5 ph = Ammonia ph 11.0 Liquid Hand Soap ph 11.0 ph= Oven Cleaner ph 13.0 Sodium Hydroxide ph 14.0 Caustic Soda ph 14.0 ph Scale (Potential Hydrogen)