CHOOSING THE RIGHT COLOR FOR YOU HAIRCO LOR 101

Transcription

1 CHOOSING THE RIGHT COLOR FOR YOU HAIRCO LOR 101

2 1 ROAD MAP Start your colour journey here Where am I? Know your true color before you change it. What is my current natural hair color? To determine your natural color, look at the new growth at the scalp. What is the level? The level is the unit of measurement used to determine how light or dark a color is. There are 10 levels to determine hair color, from 0=black to 10=palest blonde. 1 Black 2 Very Dark Brown 3 Dark Brown 4 Medium Brown 5 Light Brown 6 Dark Blonde 7 Medium Blonde 8 Light Blonde 9 Very Light Blonde 10 Lightest Blonde

3 What is the tone? 2 Tone refers to the warmth or coolness of a color. Red, orange, yellow, and gold are warm. Green, blue, violets, and gray are cool. A balance of warm and cool tones is neutral. What is the percentage of gray/white? The higher the percentage of gray, the more N or neutral your formula will need to be. Also, a higher the percentage of gray requires longer processing time. Where do I want to go? What color do I want? Do I want to go lighter or darker? What is the final look I want to achieve? Do I want one solid color, dimensional, color, highlights or low lights or OMBRE?

4 3 How am I going to get there? What products should I use? Glossers are temporary, add tone and shine Color Rinses are temporary, They just add tone and shine. Semi Permanents are also temporary color, They add tone, sheer color, shine, and may blend gray. They are non-ammonia, Semi Permanent developers are 3% ammonia. Demi Permanents are longer lasting than semi-permanent, They add tone, deepen color, add shine, and are good for gray blending. They do not lift natural color or previously dyed hair. With or without ammonia. Their developers are 10 ammonia volume.

5 4 What should I do? What technique should I use? Root touch ups - to cover/blend gray - to lighten natural color - to darken natural color Color form scalp to ends - to create a uniform color from scalp to ends as in coloring for the first time - to create a uniform color from the scalp when the ends have faded Block color is side by side solid sections of different colors

6 Highlights selected sections of hair to be lightened Lowlights: selected sections of hair to be darkened - Use the cap technique - Use foils, a salon preferred method - Use balyage/baliage, free hand painting color onto the hair - Use colour bunz, select and separate precise pieces of hair to lighten or darken. Ombre: lightening only the ends

7 (oxidative color is a product that uses oxygen to develop the color molecule) It permanently alters natural color. It can lighten natural color up to 4 levels or deepen natural color. It is good for gray coverage and wiill not lift out previously dyed hair. Ammonia or non-ammonia, IMPORTANT Permanent Color is oxidative. Permanent color developers are 10, 20, 30, 40 ammonia. The higher the developer %, the more lift possible. Lift is the process of removing color and lightening hair. Permanent colors permanently alter natural hair color but will fade. High lift Blonde products are oxidative, with or without ammonia. They are best used for high lighting naturally light hair. They can lighten natural color up to 4 levels and will permanently alter natural color. They will not lift out previously dyed hair. The developer is 40 volume. Decolorizers & Bleaches are oxidative with or without ammonia. They lift and remove natural color and previously dyed hair. They can lift natural color up to 7 levels. These products give the most control for highlighting. Developers are 10, 20, 30, 40.

8 Hot Fashion Color: contain direct dyes. For best results, pre-lighten hair, and then apply for bright color. These colors fade quickly but often leave a soft residue of tone., Vegetable Dyes: temporary, plant based. These dyes can add depth, but cannot lighten. Gray hair blending may be possible. Henna. Permanent stain Ammonia color vs non ammonia color: No copy for this? Or does it belong somewhere above. Currently writing it outl WOW

9 What can prevent me from achieving the results I want? IMPORTANT 5 What should I check? What is my hair density? Density is the thickness or hair per square inch. (thin, medium, thick). The denser the hair, more product will be used for complete saturation. What is my hair texture? Texture describes the type/feel of the hair strand. (fine, medium, coarse). The more coarse the hair, the more product will be used for complete saturation. What is my hair porosity? Porosity is the hair ability to absorb water. Porosity indicates the health of the hair. All hair is porous and has the ability to absorb water. Healthy hair s bonds are strong, so when it absorbs water it s elastic. The hair will stretch and spring back. Unhealthy hair s bonds are weak. When wet, the hair has no elasticity and will snap and break. It is important to know your hair s porosity when choosing a color product. Do a simple test wet a strand of hair, gentle stretch a single strand if it stretches and returns, it s healthy, if it quickly snaps and breaks, your hair is damaged

10 What is my genetic disposition? Our genetic background plays a part in how our hair reacts to hair color. Our genes determine the pigments in our hair, as well as the texture and density of our hair. What other factors do I have to consider? Do I have any other chemical treatments in my hair such as relaxer smoothers, perms, straightening treatments? When in doubt. See a professional colorist!

11 6 How to get the color you want. Here s how to work out your formula Example You are a natural level 6 (using the hair level chart) and you want to be a level 8 blonde Take 8 x 2 = 16, Subtract your natural level 6. This gives you a tells you to use a level 10 color. Basic color formula example Desired color level 8 (8 x 2 = 16) (2 is a constant) Natural level 6 Subtract natural level from desired color level equation above = 10 Use a level 10 level dye Let s do one more with very different results.

12 You are a natural level 5 (see the hair level chart) and you want to be a level 9 blonde, Take 9 x 2 = 18, subtract your natural level 5. This gives you tells you, you have to use a bleach to become a level 9 blonde Basic color formulating Desired color level 9 (9 x 2 = 18) Natural level 5 Subtract the natural level from desired color level equation above = 13 Use a bleach or decolorizer for best results Do The Math Example If the end result number is higher than 13, you must use a decolorizer or bleach for the best results. The higher the percentage of gray/white hair, more neutral (ash) should be put in the formula to avoid hot roots (warmer tones) The more lift, the lighter color desired, the more warmth will be exposed. To control warmth, add ash to the formula or to be safe, use a decolorizer or bleach

13 Hair Hair is made of protein called keratin Hair is the second fastest growing tissue in the body, bone marrow is #1 Hair grows approximately one half inch per month Human hair s life span is 3-7 years on average Female s hair grows slower than males Hair loss averages hairs per day Hair grows faster in warmer weather up to 10% A strand of hair can tell if you smoke, drink, or take drugs, it can tell your ethnic origin, it cannot identify your gender Blonde hair has the most follicles (130,000), Black hair (100,000), red hair (90,000) Hair is actually dead material. If it were alive, a haircut would be painful!