Is West Greenland densely populated?

Transcription

1 Is West Greenland densely populated?

2 Historie Welcome to West Greenland West Greenland is the most densely populated area in Greenland. But everyone still has more than enough room. Actually all of 39.5 square kilometres - per person! West Greenland extends from Paamiut in the south to Sisimiut in the north. The capital of Nuuk is centrally located in West Greenland, and more than 13,500 of West Greenland s 30,000 inhabitants reside here. Therefore, West Greenland is also the centre of a large part of Greenland s political history. It was here that Hans Egede started his missionary work and colonisation in 1721 and it was here the head office of Greenland s Home Rule was located when self-government was founded in Regardless who is in power however, it seems like when all is said and done, nature is pulling all the strings. Strings that are both magnificent, beautiful An interpretation of life in Greenland from around and awe-inspiring. With long, deep fjords, sheer mountains and the enormous ice cap. With an animal life that ranges from the small snow bunting to the largest mammal in the world, the blue whale. West Greenland also reflects the enormous cultural development which Greenland has been through, especially in recent years. You can still visit the settlements along the coast where the age-old hunting profession is the basis for survival, Yes 30,000 people inhabit an area bigger than Great Britain or enjoy urban pleasures like fine restaurants and discotheques and a rich abundance of films, theatrical performances and more. Wander among the 200-year-old wooden houses of the colonial era, just a snowball-throw away from award-winning contemporary architecture. Ride a dogsled to a modern ski lift and race down one of the alpine slopes. Be titillated by neon signs in town and awed by northern lights on the night sky. Modern housing is also part of modern-day Greenland. West Greenland offers a greater variation of cultural and outdoor experiences than any other part of Greenland. Combined with fine accommodation sites, visitors to West Greenland feel they have discovered a kind of Arctic paradise. Welcome to West Greenland Contents: Nowadays, only the Greenlandic town names are used, whereas previously the Danish names were also included. Paamiut/Frederikshåb, Nuuk/Godthåb, Maniitsoq/Sukkertoppen, Kangerlussuaq/Søndre Strømfjord and Sisimiut/Holsteinsborg. 2-3 Welcome to West Greenland 4-5 From hunter culture to home rule 6-7 Hunting and fishing 8-9 Fauna 10 Travelling to West Greenland 11 Paamiut 12 Nuuk 13 Maniitsoq 14 Kangerlussuaq 15 Sisimiut 3

3 Have there been revolutions in Greenland?

4 Historie From hunter culture to home rule The fjords are teeming with new experiences. Greenland s capital, Nuuk, is located in West Greenland. Therefore, much of Greenland s political history takes place here. And it hasn t been run-of-the-mill. Modern history gathered momentum in 1721 when pastor Hans Egede set sail for Greenland with the intention of re-christening the Norse inhabitants, i.e. the descendants of Erik the Red. When Hans Egede arrived, he was surprised to discover that the Norse inhabitants had died out. So he started to do missionary work among the Eskimo hunters instead. He learned to speak Greenlandic and also developed a written Greenlandic so he could translate important Biblical texts. At the same time, the kingdom of Denmark- Norway annexed Greenland as a colony. This did not occur however until a vehement power struggle had been waged with the Dutch whalers who were ruthlessly overkilling the Greenlandic whales to get whale oil - a fuel used in lamps of the time. For the next 250 years, very close ties were kept between Greenland and Denmark. They did not loosen until 1979 when the Greenland Home Rule was founded. In contrast with many other colonies Yes but they have been peaceful that have received self-government, it took place quite peacefully through a joint decision. Hans Egede s beautiful old house at Nuuk Harbour is a splendid expression of the peaceful revolution. Today, the house is used for official receptions and as a residence for guests of the Greenland Home Rule. Nuuk is not the only place where old and new go hand in hand. Wherever you go, modern Greenland is springing up around the old churches and administration buildings of the colonial era. There are new educational institutions, companies and new entertainment offers wherever you look. No other place in the world issues as many CD per capita as Greenland, for example. But the rapping is in Greenlandic, not American. Because in the midst of these new developments, there is also a strong willingness to hold on to Greenland s unique culture. Greenland may have entered the information age, but the hunter culture is not dead. The kayak and dogsled live side by side with the PCs and CDs. That is why Greenland is still a very unique place in the world. And Greenland s unsettled history has had a peaceful ending for the time being. The Greenlandic flag was introduced on June 21, 1985, which is also Greenland s national day. The red semicircle symbolises the midnight sun, while the white surface symbolises the ice. 5

5 Are there immense workplaces in West Greenland?

6 Historie Hunting and fishing West Greenland s many rivers and fjords are every angler s dream. The great outdoors is the largest workplace in Greenland. For millennia, it was also the only one - hunting was simply the only way to survive. In this respect, life and death are closely connected in Greenland, perhaps closer than anywhere else in the world. The implements were the kayak and the harpoon, supplemented by the skiff and the rifle later on. From of old, the training of the Greenlandic boy started in his infancy. The family played Qajaasaartunnguaq with him, which means pretending to be a kayaker. Sitting on his mother s or sister s lap, he was gently pushed from side to side while the word qajaq was repeated. As the boy gradually grew up, this game was bolstered by other exercises of balance and strength, and as early as the age of 7 or 8, the boy was ready to hunt seals, the prime quarry of the Greenlandic hunter. Other favourite prey were whales, reindeer and polar bears. And they still are! Because hunting is still an almost indispensable part of life, no matter if hunting is a sideline or the primary occupation as it is for 2,600 full-time hunters. To preserve unchanged populations of the individual species, certain restrictions have been imposed on the hunting however. Hunting permits for animals like reindeer are therefore extremely coveted and are reserved for the local naturally! inhabitants of Greenland - but every year 60 musk oxen are put up for grabs in a trophy hunt. The fishing occupation is closely related to hunting and plays an important financial role in modern Greenland. Shrimp exports are gigantic, and crab fishing is gaining ground. And any angler who has visited Greenland will confirm that the char fishing is fantastic. The char briskly jump in rivers and fjords, and fishermen seldom wait long for a strike, usually followed by a delicious meal. In summer, it is very popular to move the kitchen outdoors. The Greenlandic hunting tradition can be studied in many parts of Greenland today. In most bays near the towns, youths still train kayaking leans, turns and rolls, and at Greenland s museums the old implements are on display and even the workplace itself - the great Greenlandic outdoors - for the most part just as unspoilt as it has been for thousands of years. The local market, Brættet, sells the catch of the day, in this case reindeer. Because of its northern location, Greenland has more hours of sunshine in summer than southern Europe but Greenland is not quite as hot. 7

7 8 Is watching the animals of West Greenland a colossal experience?

8 Historie Fauna The blue whale is the world s largest mammal. It weighs up to 70 tonnes, or the same as 25 large elephants. Therefore, it is no exaggeration to say that watching whales frolic in the sea off the coast of West Greenland is an enormous experience. Nor is it a rare sight either. Actually, many of the various whale species swim quite close to the West Greenland towns where they swim around and play in the surrounding bays. It is also possible to go on a photo whale safari where you can watch the whales gracefully lift their tails into the air just before slapping them against the water with colossal strength. A very fascinating sight. It is more difficult to approach the animal that for many years has been the very basis for existence in Greenland the seal. The reason they are seldom seen is not because they are rare however. Seals are merely shy but with good reason. Around 150,000 seals are killed each year. Even so, the population is enormous and not declining in the least. Actually, seals are so numerous they threaten the fish population around Greenland. There are many impressive animals on land too. One of them is the musk ox, the animal that led the first Arctic hunters to Greenland from North America. Today, the musk ox lives in the area around Kangerlussuaq where photo safaris are organised. The polar bear is a rare visitor to West Greenland. In return, the reindeer ranges throughout the region on dinner plates too Yes they weigh up to 70 tonnes where it is considered a great delicacy. A fully grown musk ox can weigh up to 300 kg. Lean your head back - the sky is also replete with imposing sights. With a wingspan of more than two metres, the white-tailed eagle is the greatest. The white-tailed eagle lives on birds and fish and is especially fond of Greenland s large char population. Much smaller, but in return much more numerous, is the mosquito which has a brief period of glory in midsummer. Fortunately there are many effective safeguards against these small pests. Of course, there are many other animal species in Greenland, but compared with more southerly latitudes, the profusion is nevertheless limited. The survival of the fittest, wrote Darwin. Had he experienced the fauna of Greenland, he probably would have added The survival of the very fittest. There are more than 500 different plant species in Greenland, including five species of the orchid family. The most fertile areas are found at the head of the long fjords of West Greenland. 9

9 Travelling to West Greenland The towns and settlements along the entire coast can be visited on the comfortable passenger ships of Arctic Umiaq Line. the head of the fjords local summer temperatures can rise above 20 C. In the height of summer, mosquitoes can abound, so remember to bring a mosquito net and mosquito repellent. How to get here: If your travelling to Paamiut, fly to Narsarsuaq international airport from where the rest of the journey is made by either helicopter or ship. The gateway to the rest of West Greenland is the international airport at Kangerlussuaq / Sdr. Strømfjord. It only takes 4.5 hours to fly here from Copenhagen and 2.5 hours from Iceland. From Kangerlussuaq, there are flights to Nuuk, Maniitsoq and Sisimiut, and in summer, boat service is also provided by Arctic Umiaq Line. Passenger ships from Arctic Umiaq Line serve the area from Sisimiut to Paamiut all year long, but do not call at Kangerlussuaq in winter however. Clothing: No matter if it is winter, spring or summer, you are recommended to clothe yourself according to the layeron-layer principle, the outermost layer of which should be wind- and waterproof. Since the summer sea temperatures are only a few degrees Celsius, it is a good idea to bring along a pair of gloves and a cap for sea travel. Proper footwear is essential both in winter and summer, i.e. waterproof shoes or hiking boots with thickly treaded soles. For dogsledding it is usually possible to rent very warm sealskin clothing. Health Services: The towns of West Greenland have well-functioning hospitals and dental clinics, and nurse stations are located in the settlements. In the event of acute illness or accidents, medical assistance is usually provided free of charge. You are advised to bring your own medicine or other medicaments for regular use, since special products are not always available. Currency: Danish currency is a valid means of payment, and there are no restrictions on the import or export of cash. In towns of West Greenland without banks, the post office provides banking services. Credit cards are accepted at fair-sized shops and at hotels and restaurants. Climate: During the coldest months of February and March, the temperature can drop below -25 C or more, while temperatures of 8 to 12 C are common in summer. The low humidity makes the climate feel milder than the temperature on the thermometer, and further inland at Since the Arctic climate is sometimes severe, travellers must be prepared for occasional delays in both plane and boat traffic. Travel is sometimes temporarily interrupted to prevent accidents, because safety is paramount in Greenland. 10

10 Paamiut Historie Paamiut The red and green wooden church is probably one of the most beautiful in Greenland. The town of Paamiut is located furthest to the south at the mouth of the Kuannersooq Fjord and the town s name also means inhabitants at the mouth. The town was built in 1742, and the very characteristic wooden church dates from The interesting local museum located at the town centre is fitted up in 19 th -century buildings that include a former carpentry workshop and a salt house. To all appearances, the area has been inhabited since around 1,500 BC. Like the other towns of West Greenland, the sea does not freeze over in winter, and the primary occupation for the 2,100 inhabitants in Paamiut and its only settlement, Arsuk, is naturally fishing. importance to the town is also emphasised by the fact that Greenland s maritime-trade training programmes are housed here. Paamiut s uplands are enormous, offering fine char rivers and deep fjords in addition to wonderful hikes. A favourite excursion for the inhabitants and guests alike is a boat trip through the fjord to the Nigerlikasik glacier. In summer the weather can get rather warm in here, and it is a very fertile area with plants like rhododendron and man-high willow scrub. Along the way there are many opportunities of seeing curious seals sticking their heads above water, and you also pass by a bird cliff with thousands of gulls and kittiwakes. Perhaps Paamiut ought to have been called the land of the whitetailed eagle, because the area has the largest population of white-tailed eagles in Greenland. If you choose to sail out on the open sea instead, you are almost certain to see whales in late summer and autumn. The whales will usually be lesser rorquals, fin whales, killer whales or humpbacks. In spring and summer however, the fishing and other maritime traffic can be obstructed by field ice floating along the east coast of Greenland and continuing up the west coast - but even so the field ice is a fascinating sight. The sea s great Special currents around Greenland prevent the sea along West Greenland from freezing over in winter. Therefore, the area is open to passenger ships and trawlers all year round. 11

11 Nuuk Nuuk In Nuuk, new meets old in charming style. Nuuk means the promontory and is located at the tip of a large peninsula by the mouth of gigantic Nuuk Fjord. The town is the oldest in Greenland, built by Danish missionary Hans Egede in 1728, after he had abandoned his first settlement at Håbets Ø (Isle of Hope) all the way out at the Davis Strait. The town is also the largest in Greenland with some 13,500 inhabitants, in addition to the 340 persons living in the settlements of Kapisillit and Qeqertarsuatsiaat. Nuuk is the capital of Greenland where old meets new in a distinctively Greenlandic fashion. A short walk from the colonial harbour with its beautiful old buildings takes you past Brættet - the local market where the day s catch of seal, fowl and fish are sold - and on to the modern administration buildings of the Home Rule, arriving at Katuaq, Greenland s Cultural Centre, prized for its beautiful architecture. Being the capital, Nuuk also houses a university, seminary, cathedral and the National Museum where visitors can spend many hours delving into the fascinating prehistoric times of Greenland. And Nuuk is also where Santa Claus s post office is locat- An international snow sculpture festival is held in Nuuk every year where blocks of snow 3 by 3 by 3 metres are transformed into beautiful sculptures. ed. From here, thousands of letters from children around the world are answered every year. Life in Nuuk throbs with town buses, cafés, restaurants and shops, while fantastic nature experiences are waiting for you just around the corner. The fjord system, one of the largest in the world, abounds with animal life. Around June, herds of seals and whales migrate here from the west, and the frolicking humpbacks and seals can even be seen from land. Inside the fjord you can also encounter reindeer herds, and especially the many birds that typify the area. Inland is also the location of good char rivers. The area is filled with overwhelming evidence that it has always been an attractive place for settlement. On a boat trip through the fjord, you will see former villages, ruins from the Norse era, abandoned settlements and many hunting cabins. And it also worth remembering that you are actually quite close to the world s oldest mountain, 3.8 billion years old. The northern lights are visible throughout West Greenland. According to the old Greenlandic myths, the northern lights appear when the souls of the dead play ball with walrus skulls. 12

12 Maniitsoq Historie Maniitsoq At the first opportunity, the boats head for the fjords. The town of Maniitsoq means rugged place in Greenlandic, and it thoroughly lives up to its name. The Maniitsoq area is typified by deep, narrow fjords and some of the highest mountains on the west coast. In 1755 the town was built as a colony on the site where Kangaamiut settlement is located today, but was moved to its present-day location in Archaeological finds prove that the area has been settled for more than 4000 years, and the town s museum, where four of the buildings from the colonial era have been fitted up, displays its abundant collection of these finds. One of the buildings is dedicated to the region s art and handicraft. The The town is situated on an island - actually several islands and tongues of land - so it is interconnected by many bridges, and since many houses and apartment blocks hug the mountain side, there are countless stairways too. Naturally, the island location means boats are a common means of transport, and therefore the harbour is filled with an impressive array of boats, ranging from small dinghies with outboard motors to large cabin cruisers. The primary occupation for the municipality s 4,000 inhabitants is shrimp and crab fishing, but traditional sealing and whaling is still very important, especially for the inhabitants of the three settlements in the municipality. Contrary to North Greenland, the sea around Maniitsoq does not freeze over in winter, so the fishing vessels and trawlers are busy all year round. The town is also known for its production of distinctive artwork and handicraft. The many fjords are ideal excursion spots by boat or kayak alike. Evighedsfjorden (the Eternal Fjord) is particularly impressive with its sheer mountain walls almost 2,000 metres high, as well as numerous glaciers. Freshly caught cod tastes best when cooked and eaten on a rock outdoors. building has exhibits of paintings, sculptures and carvings in ivory, bone and soapstone and other handicraft on all three floors. All the towns in West Greenland have fine opportunities for buying Greenlandic handicraft, like soapstone or reindeer-antler sculptures and carvings. There are also sealskin sewing workshops selling handbags, gloves and other sealskin products. 13

13 Kangerlussuaq Kangerlussuaq Throughout West Greenland, you will discover wonderful motifs for the drawing pad. Kangerlussuaq is located at the head of the fjord with the same well chosen name meaning the long fjord. The fjord is actually 160 kilometres in length. Kangerlussuaq is a former US airbase, built in 1941, but after technological progress eliminated its military significance, it was turned over to Greenland s Home Rule in the 1990s. Today, the airport is the gateway to most of Greenland as well as being the workplace for its slightly less than 600 inhabitants. Due to its location far inland, Kangerlussuaq has an exceedingly stable climate with very warm, dry summers and very cold winters. The animal life is abundant and just a few kilometres from the airport, you may encounter some of the more than 3,500 musk oxen that inhabit the region. Twenty-seven musk oxen were introduced to the area from Illoqqortoormiut in North-east Greenland, and under the favourable living conditions they have multiplied beyond expectation. There are many reindeer, and archaeological finds which prove that reindeer have been hunted here for thousands of years. On a trip through the hills, you can also meet hares, white and blue foxes and peregrine falcons. Just to keep the record straight, remember that the abundant fauna also includes the mosquito, which can be discouraged by mosquito net and repellent. From the mountain tops, you can gaze over the mighty ice cap just 25 kilometres to the east. As something unique for Greenland, a road actually leads all the way to the ice cap. So according to temperament and physical condition, you can hike, cycle or ride in or drive an off-roader up to the impressive edge of the ice. It is important to keep the ice at a safe distance however, because large and small chunks are constantly breaking off. From midautumn till spring, there are fine opportunities for seeing the northern lights, because it is rarely overcast in Kangerlussuaq and street lighting is scarce. Every January, a hotel of ice and snow is built, consisting of six double rooms shaped like traditional igloos with one big igloo in the middle. Everything is made of ice, even the glasses in the ice bar It goes without saying that the hotel has limited opening hours, because spring arrives already in April, bringing along thawing temperatures. Good hiking maps are available for most of the areas near towns in West Greenland, as well as for the area between Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut. Hiking maps can be purchased at the local tourist office. 14

14 Historie Sisimiut Sisimiut Sisimiut means inhabitants by the fox burrows. With its 5,400 inhabitants divided between the town proper and the nearby settlements of Sarfannguaq and Itilleq, Sisimiut is the second largest municipality in Greenland. It is located north of the Arctic Circle and is Greenland s northernmost town with an icefree harbour during winter and its southernmost town with dogsled traffic. Old meets new in a novel, unique manner in Sisimiut. In the beautiful old town quarter, there are wooden buildings from the colonial era. The town s old Bethel Church was consecrated in 1775 and is the oldest preserved church in Greenland. The museum has a unique exhibition on the Saqqaq culture (2, BC, the first people to inhabit Greenland), and also highlights Sisimiut as it was a century ago, as well as the history of Greenland s maritime trade. Moreover, the old town quarter consists of the new church (built in 1926 and expanded in the mid-1980s), the tourist agency and the Seamen s Home. Sisimiut is also a modern town however. A high-tech shrimp and crab processing factory emphasises the fact that fishing and hunting are the most important occupations. The young people know where things are happening too. The Net Café is a popular surfing spot, while street hockey is played outside. The new bridge and airport are connected by the airport road, where cyclists, joggers and roller skaters enjoy the outdoors, while others study the Saqqaq ruins along the same stretch of road. Climb up to the top of the town s landmark, a 784 metre mountain named Kællingehætten (literally old woman s cowl ), and you will be rewarded by a fantastic view of the town, sea and mountains, as well as the settlements of Assaqutaq and Sarfannguaq. These very same settlements can also be experienced on a boat trip through waters filled with seals and whales. But no other trip quite compares to a seven- to fourteen-day hike from Sisimiut to Kangerlussuaq. The entire Sisimiut hinterland opens up to the hiker who has the great Arctic landscapes all to him- or herself. Sisimiut s uplands are also the setting for many winter activities. As soon as the snow and ice permit, from around February to May, you can experience the winter s fantastic landscapes by dogsled and snowmobile, and there are also many fine skiing opportunities. The town has excellent cross-country facilities, and a ski lift at the foot of Kællingehætten. Every winter the most gruelling cross-country event in the world is held, the Arctic Circle Race. Contestants from the entire world meet and compete over a distance of 160 kilometres for three days, spending the nights in tent camps in the wilderness. A contestant who has completed the Arctic Circle Race. The Greenlandic language is polysynthetic, i.e. its words consist of a stem, one or more affixes and a suffix. In some cases, one word in Greenlandic corresponds to an entire sentence in a European language. 15

15 Make your dreams come true... Contact the local tourist office or start your adventures this very day at Paamiut Tourist Service, Paamiut Kommune P.O.Box 93, DK-3940 Paamiut, Tel: , Fax: , Tikilluarit Nuuk Tourism A/S, P.O.Box 199, DK-3900 Nuuk, Tel: , Fax: , Maniitsoq Tourist Service, P.O. Box 318, DK-3912 Maniitsoq, Tel: , Fax: , Kangerlussuaq Tourism, P.O.Box 49, DK-3910 Kangerlussuaq, Tel: , Fax: , Greenland Visitor Information Sisimiut, P.O. Box 65, DK-3911 Sisimiut, Tel: , Fax: , Copy: Greenland Tourism and Lowe Lintas & Partners. Photos and drawings: Jens Rosing, Keld Hansen, Kristjan Fridriksson, Greenland Tourism, Lars Reimers, Manfred Horender, Rolf Müller, Digo, Per Arnesen et al. Printing & repro: Comgraphic / Sept. 2000

16 Historie West Greenland Experiences of a world apart 17