Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Behind the Scenes

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1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 739 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Abby Gershenzon, Alen & Andrea Lai, Alexandra Bliss, Allan Smith, Annette Stamatiadis, Cengiz Aksu, Christian Ulrich, Collado Marimar, Dirk van Norren, Francisco Buny, George Moss, Jenn Hicks, Jonathan Amies, Jordi Bibià, Joy Morrison, Judi Moriarty, Judy Ridge, Katherine Pezet, Kathleen Doherty, Laura van Eerten, Linde Barrera, Liz Killebrew, Lloyd Collyer, Matheus Ferreira, Mike Priaulx, Nadine Pilz, Pernille Sand, Rainer Feichter, Robert Burkill, Sarah Heretz, Sien Hasker, Simon Sy Lui AUTHOR THANKS Korina Miller An enormous thank you to Kirk and my mum and dad for minding the fort while I was away and making it possible for me to take this project on. Thank you to my fabulous daughters, Monique and Simone, for letting me work and also encouraging me to take breaks. Thank you to Brana at LP for her support and to my co-authors for their insights and cameraderie. A warm efharisto to all of the people I met on the road both locals and travellers who shared their stories, knowledge and enthusiasm for Greece and were unwaveringly hospitable despite such difficult times. And thanks to Bing the loyal coonhound for keeping me company while I burned the midnight oil. Kate Armstrong I am constantly humbled by the generosity of the Greek people in tough times. Efharisto poli, as always, to the Zotos family in Nafplion, to Yiannis at Alsos House for your knowledge and for sharing so much, to Alex Groth in Makrinitsa for welcoming me regardless of time and distance, and to SB Barker for your Herculean friendship and driving skills. (I ll never catch up on the Omega intake.) Finally, to Brana you re the best, as is the LP team and my fellow team of authors. Alexis Averbuck Boundless gratitude to Alexandra Stamopoulou for her INSPIRATION. She travels with me everywhere. Ryan Ver Berkmoes was a peachy road companion and an aces navigator on unmarked Cretan tracks. Thanks to Ramona for an insider s take on Gavdos. Big cheer for Korina, Kate and Richard, who contributed so much to the Crete chapter. Applause for Brana: conscientious, informed and compassionate editor. Margarita, Kostas, Zisis, Anthy and Costas made Athens home. Efharisto poli to

2 BEHIND THE SCENES those who welcomed me so warmly around Crete, the Saronic Gulf and Athens. Carolyn Bain Efharisto poli to Brana Vladisavljevic for a wonderful gig, and to Team Greece for sterling work. Across the Cyclades, hundreds of kind, generous locals (and visitors) answered my questions, engaged in conversation, fed me (oh god, did they feed me!) and showed me the meaning of heartwarming Greek filoxenia. Sincere thanks to all of them. Thanks to old friends Fiona and William Reeve for fun on Santorini, and to my favourite co-traveller, Kelvin Adams, for three weeks of ace company and dedicated research of beaches and blue domes. Michael Stamatios Clark Ευχαριστω to all who made my ferry-hopping through the Greek islands a trip from the start. Special thanks to my splendiferous family, Janet, Melina and Alexandros, and to the editorial team of Brana Vladisavljevic and Korina Miller for cheerful support throughout. In the Sporades islands, many thanks to Chrysanthi, Amanda, Heather, Pakis, Alexandra, Georgos and Mahi, Makis, Bessie, Gisela; in the Aegean, thanks to Anastasia, Theofilos, the Fouskas family, Demetra and Vassilis, Naya and Petros, and Tasos, Margarita and Kostas. Anita Isalska Thank you to every shepherd who mimed driving directions, and every guesthouse owner who ushered me inside for tsipouro. Big thanks especially to the team at Arta s and Central Macedonia s tourism department, and Helen Tarbet for translations and insights. Thanks also to Richard Waters and Trent Holden for seasoned authorly advice. Bear hugs to Joe Revill, Jessica Crouch and Jane Atkin for cheering me on. Heartfelt thank yous to Normal Matt, for more than I can list. Anna Kaminski I would like to thank Brana for entrusting me with these chapters, my fellow scribes and everyone who enhanced my journey, particularly my mum for sharing two weeks on the road with me and being such an able research assistant; Mina of Antares; Byron in Monemvasia; Maria and Panos in Dimitsana; George in Kalavryta; Nikos in Kardamyli; Alexis and Ryan on Hydra; and Alexander in Nafplio. Greg Ward Thanks to the many wonderful people who make travelling in the Dodecanese such a pleasure, and thanks above all to my wife, Sam Cook, for sharing the fun. Richard Waters Special thanks to Michael in Corfu and Leonidas at Pachis travel. Also to Lily Alicabiotis. There are many Greek people who made my journey easy at what were difficult times for them, so my thanks to all. Thanks too to Korina Miller and Alexis Averbuck, my coordinating authors, for all their help and patience, and to Brana Vladisavljevic, my destination ed, for sending me out there. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Illustrations pp64 5, pp428 9 by Javier Martinez Zarracina. Illustration pp190 1 by Michael Weldon. Cover photograph: Parthenon, Athens; Alamy/Art Kowalsky THIS BOOK This 12th edition of Lonely Planet s Greece guidebook was researched and written by Korina Miller, Kate Armstrong, Alexis Averbuck, Carolyn Bain, Michael Stamatios Clark, Anita Isalska, Anna Kaminski, Greg Ward and Richard Waters. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor Brana Vladisavljevic Product Editors Kate James, Kate Mathews Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Book Designer Cam Ashley Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Pete Cruttenden, Melanie Dankel, Gabrielle Innes, Ali Lemer, Charlotte Orr, Susan Paterson Cartographer Mick Garrett Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Claire Murphy, Kirsten Rawlings, Dianne

3 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 741 Index A Abdera 270 accommodation 20, , see also individual locations Achaïa Acrocorinth 133 Acropolis 9, 63-9, 66, 8 activities 45-8, see also individual activities Adamas Aegean, see northeastern Aegean islands Aegiali Aegina , 296 Aegina Town Agapi 325 Agathonisi Agia Galini 444 Agia Kyriaki 218 Agia Marina (Leros) Agia Marina (Spetses) 313 Agia Paraskevi 313 Agia Pelagia Agia Triada 431 Agiasos 589 Agii Anargyri 313 Agion Oros Agios Ahillios 262 Agios Antonios 508 Agios Efstratios Agios Georgios (Agathonisi) Agios Georgios (Crete) 469 Agios Germanos 262 Agios Gordios 645 Agios Ioannis Agios Kirykos Agios Konstantinos Agios Kyprianos 162 Agios Nikitas 653 Agios Nikolaos (Anafi) 391 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Agios Nikolaos (Crete) 460-2, 460 Agios Nikolaos (Zakynthos) 668 Agios Pavlos 444 Agios Stefanos 643 air travel airports 724 to/from Greece within Greece 33, 728 alcohol 42-3, 362, see also wine Alexander the Great Alexandroupoli Alika 161 Alinda Alogoporos 218 Alonnisos 622-7, 624 Alopronia Ambelakia 206 Amfissa 196 Ammouliani 252 Amorgos , 369 Amphipolis 248 Anafi Anakasia 211 Anavatos 573 Ancient Agora (Athens) 75-7, 23 Ancient Corinth 132 Ancient Delos Ancient Delphi 10, , 10 Ancient Dion Ancient Eleusis 127 Ancient Messini Ancient Mycenae Ancient Nemea Ancient Olympia 17, 173-7, 176, 17 Andritsena Andros , 318 Angistri 300 Anilio 213 Ano Mera 339 Ano Meria 396 Ano Pedina 285 Ano Petali 405 Ano Syros 330 Anogi 664 Anogia Antia 612 Antikythira 674, 670 Antiparos 350-1, 344 Antipaxi 649, 647 Apella Beach 495 Aphrodite 671 Apiranthos 362 Apollo Coast Apollonas 363 Apollonia Arahova archaeological museums Ancient Mycenae Museum 137 Andros Archaeological Museum 320 (Agios Nikolaos) 461 (Ancient Olympia) 177 (Arta) (Astypalea) 522 (Chios) 571 (Fira) 381 (Florina) 261 (Fry) 497 (Halkida) 608 (Hania) 445 (Ikaria) 550 (Ioannina) 279 (Kalymnos) 526 (Kavala) 265 (Komotini) 270 (Kos) 515 (Lefkada) 651 (Mandraki) 509 (Mykonos) 334 (Myrina) (Nafplio) 138 (Parikia) 345 (Rethymno) 437 (Rhodes) (Samos) 561 (Samothraki) 599 (Sparta) 150 (Thessaloniki) 235 (Veria) 257 (Volos) 206 of Amfissa 196 of Argos 135 of Eretria 609 of Messenia 165 of Patras 180 of Pella 259 of Pythagorio 565 Heraklion Archaeological Museum 421-3, 433 Ierapetra Archaeological Museum 467

4 742 INDEX A-B archaeological museums continued Marathon Archaeological Museum National Archaeological Museum 84-6, 85 Sitia Archaeological Museum 465 Vergina Royal Tombs Museum 259 archaeological sites, see also Roman sites, temples & sanctuaries, tombs Acropolis (Athens) 9, 63-9, 66, 8 Acropolis of Lindos 486 Acropolis of Rhodes 481 Agia Triada 433 Alyki 604 Amphipolis 248 Ancient Agora (Athens) 75-7, 23 Ancient Agora (Thasos) 602 Ancient Akrotiri 388 Ancient Corinth 132 Ancient Delos Ancient Delphi 10, , 10 Ancient Dion Ancient Eleusis 127 Ancient Ialysos 488 Ancient Kamiros 488 Ancient Lato 464 Ancient Messini Ancient Mycenae Ancient Nemea Ancient Olympia 17, 173-7, 176, 17 Ancient Sparta Ancient Thira 388 Asklepieion 519 Dimini 209 Epidavros Gortyna 435 Heraion 566 Keramikos 83 Knossos 15, , 707, 427, 15 Malia 433 Mikro Horio 506 Mystras 152-3, 152 Nestor s Palace 172 Nikopoli 289 Paleokastro 509 Pella 259 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Sanctuary of the Great Gods 598-9, 563 Sesklo 209 Zakros Palace 466 architecture area codes 19 Areopoli Argolis Argos 135 Argostili 657-9, 658 Aristi 285 Aristotle 695 Arkadia Arki Armenistis Armeos Arta Artemonas 405 art galleries, see galleries arts 22, 701-5, see also individual arts Asklepieion 519 Assos 661 Astakos 202 Astris 603 Astypalea 520-4, 521 Atatürk 238, 687 Athens 10, 52, , 60, 68, 70, 80, 86, 88, 10 accommodation 56, 95-9 activities 91-2 cinemas 111 climate 56 courses 92 drinking & nightlife entertainment festivals & events 91, 94-5 food 56, gay & lesbian travellers 109 highlights 57 history itineraries 58 medical services 114 safety 114 shopping sights tourist information 115 tours 92-4 travel to/from travel within walking tour 92, 93 Athos Peninsula (Secular Athos) 251-2, 251 ATMs 720 Atsitsa 631 August Moon Festival 26, 95 austerity 676 Avgonyma 573 Avlaki 643 Avlemonas 674 B Barbati 643 bargaining 21 basketball 698 bathrooms 722 Batsi 319 beaches Agia Anna Beach 373 Agios Nikolaos 461 Anafi 391 Andros 321 Apella Beach 495 Argostoli 657 Astypalea Demir Ali Beach 272 Eftalou Beach 586 Egremni Beach 653 Eristos Beach Falasarna Folegandros 397 Fourni islands Halikia 457 Halki Hania 448 Ikaria 551 Ios 378 Iraklia 364 Iraklio 423 Kambos Beach Kasos 498 Kavala 265 Kea (Tzia) 413 Kos 518 Koufonisia 366 Lipsi 543 Livadi Beach 523 Mandraki Beach 509 Milos 401 Mykonos 339 Myrina 593 Nafplio 139 Naoussa 348 Naxos 360 Neapoli Beach 584 Pahia Ammos 457 Patmos 540 Poros 303 Potamos Beach 247 Preveli Beach Psara 578 Psili Ammos 567 Rhodes 485, 486, 487 Samos 567 Samothraki 600 Santorini (Thira) 388 Serifos 409 Shipwreck Beach Sithonian Peninsula Skiathos 617 Skopelos 622 Thasos 605 Triopetra 444 Vaï 466 Voidokilia Beach 172 Zaga Beach 169 bears 712 Benitses 644 bicycle travel, see cycling birdwatching Evros Delta 274 Fanari wetlands 247 Gialova Lagoon 171 Panagia Islet 603 Skala Kallonis 586, 587 Tilos 506 boat travel 31-3, see also boat trips, cruising, island-hopping to/from Greece within Greece 729 boat trips Alonnisos 625 Athos 254 Corfu 639 Diafani 495 Folegandros 395 Fry 497 Ithaki 663 Kastellorizo 499 Mt Athos (Agion Oros) 254 Naoussa 348 Platanias 219 Preveza 288 Schinousa 365 Skiathos 615 Skopelos 619 books 386, 676, history 681, 694 border crossings 725 Boukari 644 bouzoukia 110 budget 19 bus travel business hours 722 Byron, Lord 126, 200-1, 686 Byzantine Athens 78-9 Byzantine museums Byzantine & Christian Museum 87 Byzantine Museum (Chios) 571 Byzantine Museum (Ioannina) 279

5 743 Byzantine Museum (Kastoria) 263 Byzantine Museum (Mytilini) 581 Byzantine Museum (Veria) 257 Byzantine Museum (Zakynthos) 667 Byzantine & Post- Byzantine Collection 445 Church of Parigoritissa- Byzantine Museum 290 Ecclesiastical (Byzantine) Museum 561 Museum of Byzantine & Post-Byzantine Art on Kythira 674 Museum of Byzantine Culture 235 C camping 716 Cape Prasonisi Cape Sounion Cape Tenaro 161 car travel Carnival 24 Patra 180 Skyros 627 castles, see also fortresses Agios Georgios Kastro 659 Amfissa Castle 196 Byzantine-Genoese Castle 584 Castle of Faraklos 485 Castle of Lykourgos Logothetis 565 Castle of Myrina 592 Castle of Platamonas 257 Castle of the Knights 514 Gardiki Castle 645 Its Kale 279 Kastro (Astypalea) 522 Kastro (Kythira) 671 Kastro (Patra) 180 Kavala Castle 265 Knights of St John Castle 491 Koroni Castle 169 Kritinia Castle 488 Larissa Castle 135 Nafpaktos Castle 199 Neo Kastro 170 Pandeli Castle 532 Venetian Castle 291 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals caves Blue Caves 668 Cave of Antiparos 350 Cave of Philoctetes 594 Cave of Sykia Olymbi 576 Cave of the Lakes 185 Cave of the Sacred Icon of Agios Giannis 364 Cave of Zeus 360 Didyma Caves 145 Dikteon Cave 469 Diros caves 160 Ideon Cave 442 Kastania Cave 156 Korykeon Cave 193 Matala hippie caves 435 Pelekita Cave 466 Perama Cave 283 Theopetra Cave 225 cell phones 18, 722 central Greece 52, , 187 accommodation 186 climate 186 food 186 highlights 187 children, travel with Iraklio 423 Chios , 569 Chios Town 571, 572 churches & cathedrals Agia Irini 553 Agia Sofia 238 Agios Andreas 180 Agios Dimitrios 238 Agios Eleftherios (Little Metropolis) 79 Agios Nikolaos (Galaxidi) 198 Agios Nikolaos (Hania) 445 Agios Nikolaos (Pelion) 214 Agios Nikolaos Rangavas 81 Agios Spyridon (Corfu) 637 Agios Spyridon (Napflio) 139 Agios Spyridon (Rethymno) 437 Agios Therapon 581 Agios Titos 423 Agios Vlasios 286 Athens Cathedral 77 Cathedral of Agios Nikolaos 272 Cathedral of Christos Elkomenos 155 Chapel of Theoskepasti 552 Church of Agii Theodori 83 Church of Dionysios 667 Church of Kapnikarea 77 Church of Nikolaos Orfanos 239 Church of Osios David 239 Church of Panagia Evangelistria 323 Church of Panagia Kera 463 Church of Panagia of Portaria 211 Church of Sotira Lykodimou 81 Church of Taxiarhes (Mani) 158 Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary 225 Church of the Holy Apostles 79 Church of the Panagia Achiropiitos 238 Church of the Panagia Vrefokratousa 589 Churches of the Taxiarhes (Chios) 575 Kimisis Tis Theotokou Cathedral 305 Metamorfosis Sotiros chapel 568 Mitropolis (Cathedral of Agios Dimitrios) 153 Paleohora 299 Panagia Drosiani 361 Panagia Ekatontapyliani 344 Panagia Glykofilousa 586 Panagia Paraportiani 334 cinema, see film climate 18, 24-6, see also individual regions clothing 20 coffee 42 Colossus of Rhodes 475 columns 707 consulates convents, see monasteries & convents Corfu 15, , 635 Corfu Town , 638, 15 Corinth Corinth Canal 133 Corinthia costs 19, 717 courses, see also individual locations art 619 cooking 40, 389, 468 language 92, 328, 556 yoga 348, 626 credit cards Crete 53, , 416 accommodation 414 climate 414 food 414 highlights 416 history 415 cruising 35-8, see also boat travel, boat trips, island-hopping culture 676-7, ancient Greece customs regulations 718 Cyclades 12, 53, , 315 accommodation 314 climate 314 food 314 highlights 315 history Cycladic civilisation cycling 48, Cyprus 690 D Dadia Forest Reserve 274 Damouhari dance 705 dangers, see safety Delos 340-2, 354 Delphi 10, , 192, 10 Diafani Diakofti 674 Diakofto-Kalavryta Railway 184 Diapondia Islands 643 Didyma Caves 145 Didymotiho 276 Dimitsana Dimosari Gorge Dion Dipotamata Gorge 321 Diros caves 160 disabilities, travellers with 723 Distomo 198 diving 45 Alonnisos 625 Antiparos 350 Athens 91 Chios 575 Corfu 643 Fiskardo 661 Hania 448 Hora Sfakion 455 Ios 376 Kalymnos 526 Lefkada 653 INDEX B-D

6 744 INDEX D-H diving continued Milos 402 Mykonos 341 Paros 349 Pythagorio 565 Rethymno 437 Rhodes 481 Sithonian Peninsula 250 Skiasthos 618 Thasos 603 Dodecanese 54, , 471 accommodation 470 climate 470 food 470 highlights 471 history dolphins 714 domatia Donousa Doukades 645 drinks 42-3, 362, see also wine driving drugs 720 Dryopida 411 Durrell, Gerald 642 Durrell, Lawrence 642 DVDs 721 E economy 676-7, 693 Edessa Eftalou Beach 586 Elafonisi (Crete) 459 Elafonisi (Peloponnese) 157 Elati 220 electricity 718 Elefsina 127 Eleusis 127 Elounda embassies Emborios (Halki) Emborios (Kalymnos) Emborios (Nisyros) emergencies 19 Englouvi 654 environmental issues 714 Epanomi 247 Epidavros Epiros , 277 Eretria 609 Ermioni 145 Ermoupoli , 329 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 etiquette 21, 44 Evdilos events 24-6 Evia 54, , 607 accommodation 606 climate 606 food 606 highlights 607 Evros Delta 274 exchange rates 19 Exogi 664 F Falasarna Faros (Ikaria) 551 Faros (Sifnos) 406, 551 ferries, see boat travel, boat trips, cruising festivals 24-6 film 676 festivals 26, 239, 240 Filoti 360 Finiki 494 Fira 381-6, 382 fires 711 Fiskardo flora 712 Florina Folegandros 393-7, 395 folklore museums Centre of Folk Art & Tradition 74 Folk Museum 268 Folk Museum Collection 357 Folklore Museum (Aegina) 297 Folklore Museum (Arta) 291 Folklore Museum (Kymi) 610 Folklore Museum (Menetes) 493 Folklore Museum of the Northern Sporades 623 Folklore Museum (Skopelos) 619 Folkloric Museum (Edessa) 260 Historic & Folklore Museum 534 Historical & Folk Art Museum 437 Historical & Folklore Museum 275 Korais Library & Argentis Folkloric Museum 571 Korgialenio History & Folklore Museum 657 Manos Faltaïts Folk Museum 628 Milos Folk & History Museum 400 Museum of Folk Art 211 Museum of History & Folk Art 611 Mykonos Folklore Museum 334 Nautical & Folklore Museum (Gialos) 502 Nautical & Folklore Museum (Kalymnos) 526 Peloponnese Folklore Foundation Museum 138 Fonias River 600 food 21, 22-3, children, catering for 50 festivals 39 football 698 forests 712 fortresses, see also castles Acrocorinth 133 Bourtzi 138 Byzantine Fortress (Komotini) 270 Castello Rosso 613 Fortezza (Rethymno) 436 Fortress (Mytilini) 581 Fortress of Agia Mavra 651 Fortress of Trikala 219 Kales Fortress 467 Kastro (Kalamata) 165 Kastro (Methoni) 169 Kastro (Milos) 400 Kazarma 465 Koules Venetian Fortress 423 Lamia Fortress 203 Neo Frourio 637 Palaio Frourio 637 Palamidi Fortress 138 Spinalonga Fortress 463 Venetian Fortress 320 Fourni islands , 556-8, 548 Frangokastello 453 Frikes 664 Fry G Gaïos Galatas 145 Galaxidi Galissas 331 galleries, see also museums Art Space 388 Athens 94 Citronne 302 Collection of Post- Byzantine Icons 651 Cultural Foundation of Tinos 323 Diexodos Museum- Picture Gallery 201 Fish & Olive 361 Modern Greek Art Museum 477 Municipal Art Gallery (Hania) 448 Municipal Art Gallery (Iraklio) 423 Municipal Art Gallery of Larissa Museum of Contemporary Art (Andros) Museum of Contemporary Art (Rethymno) 437 National Gallery - Alexandros Soutzos Museum 139 National Sculpture Gallery 90 Phos Gallery 361 René Puaux Exhibition 170 Teriade Museum 581 Theophilos Museum 581 gardens, see parks & gardens Gavdos 458 Gavrio gay travellers 719 Athens 109 Mykonos 338 Gennadi 487 geography Geraki 148 Gerolimenas 161 Gialos 501-4, 479 Gialova Gialova Lagoon 171 Glossa Gortyna 435 Gournia 464 Gramvousa Peninsula 452 Greek language Gythio 157 H Hadrian s Arch 75 Halki (Dodecanese) Halki (Naxos) 361 Halkida 608-9

7 745 Halkidiki Peninsula hammams Athens 81 Loutra 248 Thessaloniki 238 Hania , 446 health Hellenic Festival 26, 94-5 Hephaistia 595 Heraion 566 Heraklion Archaeological Museum 421-3, 433 hiking 22, 47, 48 Andros 321 Corfu 643 Crete 448 Delphi Diafani 495 Fourni islands 556 Ghria Vathra Canyon 599 Ikaria 552 Imbros Gorge 453 Iraklio 424 Ithaki 663 Kalymnos 528 Kardamyli 163 Konitsa 287 Menanlon Trail 146 Meteora 224 Mt Ypsario 605 Nisyros 511 Paros 345 Pelion Peninsula 209 Psara 578 Samaria Gorge 454 Santorini (Thira) 383 Sifnos 404 Skiathos 618 southern Evia 613 Steni 610 Stoupa 163 Tilos 506 history Alexander the Great ancient civilisations Balkan wars 687 Byzantine empire civil war classical age geometric & Archaic ages 679 Hellenistic age 682 Independence 685 Ottoman rule Peloponnesian wars 681 Persian wars Roman era 683 WWI WWII hitching 732 holidays 721 Hora (Amorgos) Hora (Andros) Hora (Astypalea) Hora (Folegandros) Hora (Ios) Hora (Kythira) Hora (Kythnos) Hora (Mykonos) 334-9, 336, 5 Hora (Naxos) , 356 Hora (Patmos) Hora (Samothraki) 598 Hora (Serifos) Hora Sfakion Hora (Tinos) horse riding Corfu 643 Hydra 305 Kefallonia 657 Naoussa 348 Naxos 357 horses 631 Horto 218 hostels 717 hot springs Agios Kirykos 550 Lamia 203 Lefkada 551 Loutra 411 Loutra (Therma) 599 Polyhnitos Therma 551 Hristos Rahes Hydra 14, 303-9, 304, 14 Hydra Town I Ialysos 488 Ierapetra Igoumenitsa 290 Ikaria , 548 Imbros Gorge 453 immigration 677, 699, 724 Inousses insurance health 720 vehicle 728 internet access 720 internet resources 19 children, travel with 51 government advice 718 history 693 Ioannina , 280 Ionian Islands 54, , 633, 46 accommodation 632 climate 632 food 632 highlights 633 history 634 Ios 374-8, 374 Ioulida Iraklia Iraklio , 420 Ireon 566 island-hopping 30-4, 316, see also boat travel, boat trips, cruising Ithaki Iti National Park 204 Itilo 158 itineraries 27-9, 34, see also walking tours J Jewish heritage Athens 81 Hania 448 Rhodes 477 Thessaloniki 238, 239 K Kalamakia 626 Kalamata 165-7, 166 Kalambaka Kalami 643 Kalamitsa Kalamitsi 249 Kalavryta Kallithea 248 Kalymnos , 525 Kalyviani 452 Kamares Kamari (Kos) 520 Kamari (Santorini) 388 Kamariotissa Kambia 574 Kambos (Ikaria) 553 Kambos (Timos) 325 Kamini 309 Kamiros 488 Kapsali Karavostamo Karavostasis Kardamyla 574 Kardamyli Kardiani 325 Karlovasi Karpathos 491-6, 492 Karpenisi Karya 654 Karystos Kasos 496-8, 496 Kassandra Peninsula Kassiopi 643 Kastania Cave 156 Kastellorizo Kastoria Kastraki Kastro (Sifnos) Kastro (Sikinos) Katapola Kathisma 653 Kato Pedin 285 Kato Zakros Kattavia 487 Kavala Kea (Tzia) , 412 Kefallonia , 656 Kefalos 520 Kemal, Mustafa 238 Kendros 368 Keramikos 83 Keri 668 Kiliomeno 668 Kimolos 402 Kini Beach 331 Kioni 665 Kionia 324 Kissamos (Kastelli) Kissos 213 Kita kitesurfing 47 kitron 362 Kleftiko 399, 354 Klima 401 Klisova Lagoon 201 Knossos 15, , 707, 427, 15 Kokkari 567, 563 Komotini Kondouros 413 Konitsa Kontias 594 Korissia Koroni 169 Koryshades 202 Kos , 514 Kos Town , 516 Koufonisia Kranidi 145 Krithoni Kritsa 463 Krokos 325 Ktikados 325 Kyllini 179 Kymi 610 Kynouria 148 Kyprinos 276 Kythira , 670 Kythnos , 409 INDEX H-K

8 746 INDEX L- M L Lagia 162 Lakka Lakki Lakones 645 Lakonia Lakonian Mani Lamia Langada (Amorgos) 373 Langada (Chios) 574 Langada Pass 154 language Larissa Lasithi Plateau Lato 464 Lavrio 122 Lefkada (Ikaria) 551 Lefkada (Ionian Islands) , 650 Lefkada Town Lefkes 349 Lefkimmi 644 Lefkos 494 legal matters 720 Leonidio 148 Leros 530-5, 531 lesbian travellers 719 Athens 109 Skala Eressou 588 Lesvos (Mytilini) 17, , 580 Lesvos Petrified Forest 587, 563 Limenaria 603 Limenas Mesta 576 Limeni 160 Limni Limnia 574 Limnos 591-5, 592 Lindos Lionas 363 Lipsi 540-3, 542 Lipsi Village literature, see books Litohoro Livadi (Astypalea) 523 Livadi (Serifos) Livadia local tranport Loggos 648 Louha 668 Loutra (Kythos) 411 Loutra Edipsou Loutra (Therma) Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Loutraki Loutro 456 M Macedonia , 230 Magazia (Paxi) 648 Magazia (Skyros) 630 Makrinitsa Malia 431 Mandraki (Hydra) 309 Mandraki (Nisyros) Mani, the 16, Manolates 567 Mantamados 584 maps 720 Marathi 544 Marathon Marathounda 504 Maries 603 maritime museums Aegean Maritime Museum 334 Hellenic Maritime Museum 118 Maritime Museum of Crete 445 Maritime Museum 386 Nautical & Folklore Museum (Gialos) 502 Nautical & Folklore Museum (Kalymnos) 526 Nautical Historical Museum 198 Nautical Museum of Inousses 576 Marmari 161 Marmaro 574 Masouri Mastihari Mastihohoria 574 Matala measures 721 medical services 719 Megali Petra 653 Megalo Horio (Agathonisi) 545 Megalo Horio (Karpenisi) 202 Megalo Horio (Tilos) 507 Megalo Papingo 286 Megalohori 387 Meganisi Melanes 362 Melinda 590 Menalon Trail 146 Menetes 493 Merihas 410 Mersini 368 Messini Messinia Messinian Mani Messolongi Mesta Metaxas, Ioannis 688 Meteora 9, 221-4, 222, 9 Methoni Metochi 145 Metsovo 278 Mezapos 160 Mikro Horio (Karpenisi) 202 Mikro Horio (Tilos) 506 Mikro Papingo 286 Milies Milina 218 Milos , 397 Minoan sites 431 Minoans 678-9, 706 mobile phones 18, 722 Mohlos 464 Molos 630 Molyvos (Mithymna) monasteries & convents Agios Oros Convent of Galataki 611 Convent of Pantanassa 153 Holy Monastery of Zoodohos Pigi 539 Monastery of Kimisis Theotokou 578 Monastery of St John the Theologian 538 Monastery of the Apocalypse Monastery of Vlatadon 239 Monastery of Zyrgou 252 Moni Agia Paraskevi 285 Moni Agias Lavras 185 Moni Agias Triados 223 Moni Agias Varvaras Rousanou 223, 9 Moni Agiou Gerasimou 659 Moni Agiou Nikolaou 222, 9 Moni Agiou Stefanou 223 Moni Agiou Vissarion 220 Moni Arhangelou 605 Moni Arkadiou Moni Chrysopigi 406 Moni Dafniou 79 Moni Episkopis 392 Moni Evaggelistria 285 Moni Evangelistrias (Skiathos) 617 Moni Evangelistrias (Skopelos) 622 Moni Faneromenis 651 Moni Filanthropinon Moni Hozoviotissis 372, 354 Moni Kaisarianis 79 Moni Kalamiotissas 391 Moni Mega Spileo 185 Moni Megalou Meteorou 223 Moni Metamorfosis 198 Moni Osios Loukas 197 Moni Panagias Elonis 148 Moni Panagias Kounistras Moni Panagias Proussiotissas 202 Moni Panagias Spilianis (Mandraki) 509 Moni Panagias Spilianis (Vathy) 565 Moni Preveli 443 Moni Profiti Ilia (Amfissa) 196 Moni Profiti Ilia (Hydra) 309 Moni Taxiarhon 584 Moni Taxiarhou Mihail Panormiti 504 Moni Theotokou 645 Moni Toplou 466 Moni Varlaam 223 Moni Xenofondos 255, 16 Moni Zoödohou Pigis 303 Mt Athos (Agion Oros) Nea Moni 573 Vrontokhion Monastery 153 Monemvasia money 18, 19, 21, discount cards 718 Moni Arkadiou Moni Dafniou 79 Moni Hozoviotissis 372, 354 Moni Kaisarianis 79 Moni Osios Loukas 197 Moni Toplou 466 monk seals 625 Monodendri 285 Monolithos 488 mosques Bayezit s Mosque 276 Fethiye Mosque 199 Koursoun Tzami 219 Mosque of Süleyman 477 Neratzes Mosque 437 Yeni Tzami 581

9 747 motorcycle travel Moudros 594 Mountanistika 161 Mouressi Mt Athos Mt Ohi 613 Mt Olympus 256 Mt Parnitha National Park 126 Mt Psiloritis 442 museums 22, see also archaeological museums, Byzantine museums, folklore museums, galleries, maritime museums Acropolis Museum 73 Ali Pasha Museum 282 Antivouniotissa Museum 637 Art of Silk Museum 275 Bakratsa Mansion Museum 619 Bath House of the Winds 81 Benaki Museum 86 Benaki Museum Pireos Annexe 83 Botsari Museum 199 Bouboulina s Museum 311 Christos Capralos Museum 299 Cinema Museum 238 Citrus Memories Museum 573 Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian Museum 353 Delphi Museum 193 Ecclesiastical Art Museum (Alexandropouli) 272 Ecclesiastical Museum (Komotini) Ecclesiastical Museum of Milos 399 Eggares Olive Press 362 Epigraphical Museum 74 Ethnological Museum of Thrace 272 Focas-Kosmetatos Foundation 657 Giustiniani Palace Museum 571 Herakleidon Museum 83 Historical Archives Museum of Hydra 305 Historical Museum of Crete 423 Industrial Museum of Ermoupoli 328 Jewish Museum (Athens) 81 Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki 238 Jewish Synagogue Museum 477 Kanellopoulos Museum 81 Komboloi Museum Megaro Gyzi Museum 382 Milos Mining Museum 399 Mineralogical Museum 122 Mitropolis Museum 357 Museum House of Yannoulis Halepas 325 Museum of Asian Art 637 Museum of Cretan Ethnology 436 Museum of Cycladic Art 86-7 Museum of Decorative Arts 477 Museum of Greek Gastronomy 84-6 Museum of Greek Popular Instruments 74 Museum of Hellenic Culture 225 Museum of History & Art 201 Museum of Industrial Olive Oil Production 585 Museum of Islamic Art 84 Museum of Marble Crafts 325 Museum of Natural History 225 Museum of Nicopolis 289 Museum of Prehistoric Thera Museum of Samos Wines 561 Museum of Solomos 667 Museum of the City of Volos Museum of the History of the Olympic Games in Antiquity 177 Museum of the Kalavryta Holocaust 183 Museum of the Macedonian Struggle 236 Museum of the Memorial of the Refugees of Museum of the Olive 216 Museum of the Olive & Greek Olive Oil 149 National Historical Museum 83 National Museum of Contemporary Art 75 Natural History Museum of the Lesvos Petrified Forest 587 Old Radio Museum 218 Open Air Water Power Museum 147 Papadiamanti House Museum 615 Paragaea Olive Oil Museum 292 Pikoulakis Tower House Museum 158 Santozeum 382 Spetses Museum 311 Theophilos Museum 211 Thessaloniki Museum of Photography 238 Tobacco Museum 265 Tsalapatas Brickworks Museum 206 Vrana Olive-Press Museum 585 Vrisa Natural History Museum 590 War Museum music 23, bouzoukia 110 festivals 26, 95, 139, 240, 549 rembetika 704 Mycenae Mykonos , 332 Mylopotamos Mylopotas Myrina Myrties Myrtos 468 Mystras 151-4, 152 mythology 613, Mytilini Town 581-4, 582 N Nafpaktos Nafplio , 140 Nanou 504 Naoussa Nas 554 National Archaeological Museum 84-6, 85 national parks & reserves 713 Dadia Forest Reserve Iti National Park 204 Mt Parnitha National Park 126 National Marine Park of Alonnisos Northern Sporades Parnassos National Park 196 Vikos-Aoös National Park nature Naxos , 351 Nea Kameni 390 Neapoli Nekromanteio of Afyra 293 Nemea Neos Marmaras 249 Neraidochori 220 newspapers 721 Nikea 512 Nikiti 249 Nikopoli 289 Nimborios 504 Nisyros , 509, 479 northeastern Aegean islands 54, , 547 accommodation 546 climate 546 food 546 highlights 547 northern Greece 53, , 229 accommodation 228 climate 228 food 228 highlights 229 Nydri 652 O Oia 386-7, 354 Old Alonnisos 626 olives 165, 216, 585 Olymbi 576 Olymbos 495, 479 Olympia 17, 173-7, 176, 17 Olympic games 62, opening hours 722 Orestiada Ormos Ormos Marathokambou 567 Otzias 413 Ouranoupoli ouzo 42 P palaces, see also archaeological sites, castles Achillion Palace 644 Palace of St Michael & St George 637 Palace of the Grand Master 476 Palamari 631 INDEX M-P

10 748 INDEX P-S Paleohora Paleokastritsa 645 Paleokastro (Kastellorizo) 499 Paleokastro (Mandraki) 509 Paleokastro (Messinia) 172 Paleopoli (Andros) 321 Paleopoli (Kythira) 674 Pali 512 Palia Kameni 390 Paliki Peninsula 660 Palio Trikeri 218 Panagia 604 Pandeli 533 Panormitis 504 Panormos 325 Papadopoulos, Georgios 691 Papandreou, Andreas 691 Papandreou, Georgios Papingo Paralia Kymis 610 Parga Parikia 343-7, 346 parks & gardens, see also national parks & reserves Areopagus Hill 75 Filopappou Hill 74-5 Garden of the Heroes 200 Hill of the Pnyx 75 National Gardens 82 Serpentine Organic Garden 215 Waterfalls Park Zappeio Gardens 82 Parnassos National Park 196 Paros , 344 Parthenon 67-9 passports 724 Patitiri Patmos 12, , 536, 12 Patra (Patras) , 181 Pausanias 144 Paxi 646-9, 647 Peania 127 Pedi 504 Pefkohori 248 Pefkoulia 653 Pelekas 645 Pelion Peninsula , 210 Pella 259 Peloponnese 52, , 130 accommodation 128 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 climate 128 food 128 highlights 130 history 129 Pendalofos 276 Perdika Perissa Pertouli 220 Petra 586 Petrota 276 Phaestos 431 philosophers phonecards 722 photography 721 Pigadia Pinakates 216 Piraeus , 119 Plaka Plaka Litohoro Plakias planning 20-1 budgeting 19 calendar of events 24-6 children Greece basics Greece s regions 52-4 internet resources 19 island-hopping 30-1 itineraries 27-9, 34 travel seasons 18, 24-6 Platanias Platanos Plato 694 Platys Gialos 406 Poles 413 Poliohni 594 politics 676-7, Pollonia 401 Polyhrono 248 Polyrrinia 452 Pomakohoria 269, 270 population 677 Poros 301-3, 301 Poros Town Portaria 211 Porto Heli 145 Porto Kagio 161 Porto Katsiki 653 Posidonia 331 Potamos Pothia Pouri 212 Prespa Lakes 262 Preveza Psara Psarades 262 Psili Ammos 567 Psyhro 469 public holidays 721 Pyli 220, 519 Pylos Pyrgi 574, 563 Pyrgos 325, 387, 567 Pyrgos Dirou 160 Pythagoras 558 Pythagorio R Rafina religion 677, 700 rembetika 704 reserves, see national parks & reserves Rethymno , 438, 433 Rhodes 11, , 472, 11 Rhodes Town , 476, 480, 479 Rina 530 road rules 732 rock climbing Kalymnos 528 Meteora 224 Roman sites, see also archaeological sites, temples & sanctuaries, tombs Ancient Corinth Argos 135 Hadrian s Arch 75 Hadrian s Library 77 Roman Agora 77 Roman baths 82-3 Thessaloniki Rousoum Gialos 626 S safety 50, 114, 719, 721 sailing 36 Samaria Gorge 13, 454, 13, 46 Sami Samos , 560 Samothraki , 597 San Michalis 331 Sanctuary of the Great Gods 598-9, 563 Sangri 361 Santorini (Thira) 10, , 379, 11, 23 Sappho 587, 589 Sarakiniko 401 Saronic Gulf Islands 53, , 295 accommodation 294 climate 294 food 294 highlights 295 Sarti 249 scams, see safety Schinousa sculpture 695 senior travellers 718 Serifos 406-7, 408 Siana 488 Sifnos 402-6, 405 Sigri 587 Sikinos 392-3, 393 Sithonian Peninsula Sitia Skala (Angistri) 300 Skala (Astypalea) Skala Eresou Skala Kallonis 587 Skala Kamirou 488 Skala Marion 603 Skala (Patmos) Skala Polyhnitou 591 Skala Prinou 603 Skiathos , 615 Skiathos Town skiing 48 Florina 261 Metsovo 278 Mt Helmos 185 Mt Vermio 258 Skopelos , 620 Skopelos Town Skyrian horses 631 Skyros , 628 Skyros Town Small Cyclades 363-9, 363 smoking snakes 713 snorkelling 45, see also diving snowboarding 48 soccer 698 Socrates 681, 682, 694 Sougia Sparta , 150 Spartans 149 Spartohori 654 Spartylas 642 Spetses , 310 Spetses Town Spili 442, 2 Spinalonga Island 463, 433 Sporades 54, 606-7, , 607 accommodation 606 climate 606 food 606 highlights 607 sports 698

11 749 Stavros (Donousa) 368 Stavros (Ithaki) 664 Stemnitsa Steni Steni Vala 626 Sterea Ellada , 188 Stoupa Strinylas 642 surfing 47 Symi synagogues Etz Hayyim Synagogue 448 Kahal Shalom Synagogue 477 Monastirioton 239 Syriza Syros , 327 T Tarabados 325 Telendos 529 telephone services 18, 722 temples & sanctuaries, see also archaeological sites, Roman sites, tombs Parthenon 67-9 Sacred Precinct of Zeus 173 Sanctuaries of the Foreign Gods 342 Sanctuary of Apollo Sanctuary of Artemis 127 Sanctuary of Asclepius (Ancient Messini) 168 Sanctuary of Asclepius (Epidavros) 144 Sanctuary of Athena Pronea 193 Sanctuary of the Great Gods 598-9, 563 Sanctuary of the Kabeiroi 594 Sanctuary of Zeus 133 Temple of Aphaia 299 Temple of Apollo (Aegina) 297 Temple of Apollo (Naxos) 353, 2 Temple of Athena Nike 67 Temple of Demeter 361 Temple of Epicurean Apollo at Vasses 178 Temple of Hera 176 Temple of Olympian Zeus 75 Temple of Poseidon (Cape Sounion) Temple of Poseidon (Poros) 303 Thasos 600-5, 601 Thasos (Limenas) 602 The Island (To Nisi) theatre 694 festivals 95, 549 Theologos 603 Therma 551 Thermopylae 203 Thessaloniki 13, , 232-3, 13 accommodation drinking & nightlife entertainment 245 food history 235 medical services 245 shopping 245 sights tourist information 245 transport to/from transport within 247 walking tour 236, 236 Thessaloniki International Film Festival 26 Thessaly , 205 Thirasia 390 Thiva (Thebes) 189 Tholaria 373 Thrace , 267 Tilos 504-8, 505 time 18, 722 Tinos 321-5, 322 tipping 21, 38, 721 Tiryns 143 toilets 722 tombs Lycian tomb 499 Marathon Battlefield & Tomb 126 Mausoleum of Inousses 577 Treasury of Atreus (Agamemnon s Tomb) 137 tourist information 722-3, see also individual locations Tourlida 201 tours 733, see also individual locations tower houses 159 Toxotes 270 Tragaea 360 train travel Diakofto-Kalavryta Railway 184 Parga Tour Train 292 To Trenaki 217 to/from Greece 725 within Greece 733 transport to/from Greece transport within Greece travellers cheques 721 trekking, see hiking Trikala Triopetra 444 Tris Boukes Bay 631 Trypi 154 Trypiti (Athos Peninsula) 252 Trypiti (Milos) Tsagarada 215 tsipouradika 207 Tsipras, Alex Turkey, travel to/from 559 turtles 714 Tzermiado 469 V vacations 721 Vaï 466 Vale of Tembi 206 Vari Bay 331 Vasiliki Vasilikos Peninsula 668 Vatera Vathia 161 Vathy (Ithaki) Vathy (Samos) 560-4, 564 Vathy (Sifnos) 406 Vathys 530 vegetarian travellers 43 Venizelos, Eleftherios Vergina 259 Veria Vikos Gorge 284-5, 2, 15 Vikos-Aoös National Park visas 18, 723 visual arts 22, Vlyhos 309 volcanoes Nisyros 511, 2 Santorini (Thira) Volimes 668 Volissos 574 Volos volunteering 723 Votsalakia 567 Votsi 626 Vourliotes 567 Vourvoulos 387 Vouvourou 249 Vravrona 127 Vromolithos 533 Vrondero 262 Vrontados 573 Vroukounda 495 Vyzitsa 216 W walking, see hiking walking tours Athens 92, 92 Thessaloniki 236, 236 water 720 waterskiing 47 weather 18, 24-6, see also individual regions websites, see internet resources weights 721 white-water rafting 47-8 wildlife windsurfing 45-7 wine 42-3 Iraklio Wine Country 434 Kefallonia 659 Nemea 134 Santorini (Thira) 389 wolves women travellers 723 work 723 X Xanthi Xirokambos 534 Xylokeriza 313 Xylouris, Nikos 441 Y yachting 36 Z Zagora Zagorohoria 15 Zagorohoria, the 15, 283-7, 284, 5 Zakros Zakros Gorge 466 Zakynthos 665-9, 666 Zakynthos Town Zaros Zia 519 INDEX S-Z

12 750 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Taxi T-bane/Tunnelbana station Train station/railway Tram Tube station U-Bahn/Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

13 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Michael Stamatios Clark Northeastern Aegean Islands, Evia & the Sporades Michael s Greek roots go back to the village of Karavostamo on the Aegean island of Ikaria, home of his maternal grandparents who emigrated to America. His first trip to Greece was as a deckhand aboard a Greek freighter, trading English lessons for Greek over wine and backgammon. Since then, he has become a Greek citizen, visits the islands often and enjoys rembetika and retsina. He has also worked on Lonely Planet guides to Burma (Myanmar), New York and Hawaii. Anita Isalska Northern Greece Anita is a travel journalist, editor and freelance copywriter. Formerly a digital editor at Lonely Planet s London office, she flew the coop to write the world. As well as Lonely Planet, Anita writes for CNN Travel, Rough Guides, BBC Travel, Escapism and more, especially about the Balkans and Eastern Europe, adventure and wildlife travel. She s never happier than when roaming Soviet-era ruins or researching macabre folklore. Check out more of her writing on Anita also wrote the Outdoor Activities chapter. Read more about Anita at: Anna Kaminski Peloponnese The product of a Classical education and a Hellenophile since discovering Myths and Legends of Ancient Greece at the age of five, Anna has been coming back to Greece repeatedly since a memorable school trip back in 1997 to explore ancient ruins, hike its mountains and dive in the Aegean. She was thrilled to return to the myth-rich Peloponnese to explore its furthest corners and firmly believes that southern Mani is one of the most remarkable places on earth. Anna also wrote the Ancient Greek Culture chapter. Greg Ward Dodecanese Having first visited Greece as an InterRailing teenager, Greg Ward ( has been returning ever since, and honeymooned on Symi. He has written books and articles about the Greek islands for many publishers and newspapers. Richard Waters Ionian Islands Richard is an award-winning journalist and writes about Greece for the Daily Telegraph, the Independent and Sunday Times Travel Magazine. He lives with his family in the Cotswolds but his spiritual home is in the islands of Greece where he first went as a boy in Since then he has been more than 20 times, and is most at home sat in a kafenio talking about myths, digging into freshly caught calamari and island hopping. As ever his admiration goes out to the people of Greece who, despite unimaginably difficult times, remain among the friendliest on the planet.

14 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Korina Miller Coordinating Author, Crete Korina first ventured to Greece as a backpacking teenager, sleeping on ferry decks and hiking in the mountains. Since then, she s found herself drawn back to soak up the timelessness of the old towns and drink coffee with locals in seaside kafeneio. Korina grew up on Vancouver Island and has been exploring the globe independently since she was 16, visiting or living in 36 countries and picking up a degree in Communications and Canadian Studies and an MA in Migration Studies en route. Korina has written nearly 40 titles for Lonely Planet and also works as a children s writing coach. Korina also wrote Plan Your Trip (except for Outdoor Activities), Understand Greece (except for Ancient Greek Culture) and Survival Guide. Kate Armstrong Central Greece Having studied history and fine arts, Kate headed to Greece aeons ago to view a kouros, and fell in love with the country. The Pythia at Delphi told her she d return; she has, frequently. For this edition she climbed rock pinnacles at Meteora and tackled donkey paths in the Pelion. She devoured kilos of seafood, several sheep, thousands of kilometres and was constantly astonished by the Aphrodite-style she received mid-greece crisis. Read more about Kate at: Alexis Averbuck Athens & Around, Crete, Saronic Gulf Islands Alexis lives in Hydra, takes regular reverse R&R in Athens, and makes any excuse she can to travel the isolated back roads of her adopted land. She is committed to dispelling the stereotype that Greece is simply a string of sandy beaches. A travel writer for two decades, Alexis has lived in Antarctica for a year, crossed the Pacific by sailboat and written books on her journeys through Asia and the Americas. She s also a painter visit OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Read more about Alexis at: Carolyn Bain Cyclades Melbourne-born Carolyn worked on her first guidebook for Lonely Planet back in 2000, and it involved some serious island-hopping around Greece. There began two addictions: writing guidebooks, and the Greek islands. Fifteen years later, this trip fed those addictions over a glorious two-month stint, in which Carolyn visited all the Cyclades. She has now visited 50 Greek islands and has way too many favourites. Read more at carolynbain.com.au. Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN th edition March 2016 ISBN Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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