Index. Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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1 566 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index A accommodation 53, 542-3, see also individual locations language 557 Acropolis (Athens) 67-72, 432, 70, 12 activities 47-51, 52-3, see also individual activities, individual locations Adamas 233 Aegiali Aegina , 128 Aegina Town Agathonisi Agia Galini 272-3, 433 Agia Marina Agia Pelagia 503 Agia Triada 263 Agios Efstratios 417 Agios Georgios 297, Agios Kirykos Agios Nikolaos , 288 Agios Pavlos air travel 17, 37, Akrotiri Peninsula 279 Alexander the Great 511 Alinda Alonnisos 452-7, 453 alphabet 558 ambulance 17 Amorgos 201-6, 202 amusement parks 90 Anafi Analipsi 350 Ancient Agora 76, 79, 79 Ancient Akrotiri 222 Ancient Delos 230-2, 432, 231 Ancient Eleusis 125 Ancient Ialysos 315 Ancient Kamiros 316 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Ancient Lato 291 Ancient Thira 222 Andros 156-9, 157 Angistri 132-3, 128 animals , see also individual species Ano Meria 229 Ano Petali Ano Syros 163 Anogia Antia 443 Antikythira 504, 500 Antiparos 184-5, Antipaxi , 478 Aphrodite 501, 503 Apiranthos Apollo Coast 87-8 Apollonas 196 Apollonia 238 aquariums Cretaquarium Old Town Aquarium 307 archaeological museums Agios Nikolaos 287 Andros 158 Athens (National Archaeological Museum) 84, 92, 92 Chios Town 395 Fira 214 Hania Ierapetra 295 Iraklio Karpathos 320 Kissamos 279 Kos Town 341 Lefkada Town 482 Mykonos 171 Myrina 414 Mytilini Town 404 Naxos 188 Parikia 180 Piraeus 120 Plaka Pothia 352 Pythagorio Rethymno 267 Rhodes Town 305 Sitia 293 Skala 348 Thasos 424 Vathy 385 archaeological sites 51, 432-3, see also Roman sites, temples, tombs Acropolis 67-72, 70 Acropolis of Agios Andreas 239 Acropolis of Lindos 314 Agia Triada 263 Alyki 427 Ancient Agora 76, 79, 79 Ancient Akrotiri 222 Ancient Delos Ancient Eleusis 125 Ancient Ialysos 315 Ancient Kamiros 316 Ancient Lato 291 Ancient Thira 222 Ancient Zakros Asklipieion Eretria 440 Evpalinos Tunnel 387 Falasarna 280 Filakopi 236 Gournia Hephaistia 416 House of Homer 494 Ireon 389 Kea Lion 246 Keramikos 76-7 Keros 199 Kos Town Malia 263 Mikro Horio 333 Palace of Knossos , 259 Palamari 462 Paleohora 131 Paleokastro 337 Panathenaic Stadium 78 Phaestos 263 Poliohni 416 Ramnous 125 Sanctuary of the Great Gods Skarkos Thasos (Limenas) 424 Archaic Age architecture 84, area codes 17 Areopagus Hill 75-6 Argostoli 487-9, 488 Arkasa 322 Arki Armeos 355 art 20, 89, art galleries, see galleries Artemonas arts 89, 459, , see also individual arts festivals 91, 424 Asklipieion Assos 491 Astypalea , 348 Athena 63 Athens , 64-5, 73, 80-1, 86-7, 98-9, 106, 12, 42, 433, 436 accommodation 60, activities 88 children, travel with 90 climate 60 courses 88 drinking & nightlife emergency services 115 entertainment festivals 91 food 60, gay & lesbian travellers 111 highlights 61, 61 history 62-6 internet resources 114, 116 itineraries 62, 90, 94-5, 95

2 567 medical services 116 safety 115 shopping sights tourist information 116 tours travel seasons 60 travel to/from travel within Athens grand promenade 77 ATMs 546 Atsitsa 462 Attica 123-5, August Moon Festival 23, 435 B Balkan Wars 514 bargaining 19 basketball 113 bathrooms 548 Batsi Battle of Marathon battles, see wars & battles beaches beer 215 bicycle travel, see cycling birdwatching 539 Lesvos (Mytilini) 402 Panagia Islet 425 Skyros 459, 462 Tilos 334 Blue Caves 498, 21 boars 539 boat travel 30-7, 38-41, 552, 552-4, see also boat trips, cruising, island hopping, sailing & yachting fares 36 ferry routes 34-5 seasickness 37 tickets 32 travel seasons 31 boat trips, see also cruising, island hopping, sailing & yachting Alonnisos 454 Corfu Evia 442 Folegandros 228 Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi) 296 Gramvousa Peninsula 280 Ithaki 493 Karpathos 323 Kasos 325 Kastellorizo (Megisti) 327 Koufonisia 200 Limnos 415 Lipsi 367 Milos 236 Paros 184 Plakias 271 Rethymno 267 Santorini (Thira) 214 Saronic Gulf Islands 129 Skiathos 445 Skopelos 450 Skyros 459 Turkey 388 Zakynthos 498 Bonelli s eagle 539 Book of Revelations 365 books 506, see also literature Cyclades 211, 522 history 514, 517 politics 518 border crossings 551 Bouboulina, Laskarina 513 bouzouki 531 bouzoukia 112 Brooke, Rupert 462 budgeting 17, 40-1, 44 bus travel 551, 554 business hours 547 Byzantine Empire architecture 84, music 532 Byzantine museums Byzantine & Christian Museum (Athens) 85 Byzantine & Post- Byzantine Collection (Hania) 276 Chios Town 395 Ecclesiastical (Byzantine) Museum 385 Museum of Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Art on Kythira 503 Naoussa 182 Zakynthos Town C camping 542 canyoning 419, 490 Cape Prasonisi 317, 49 Cape Sounion 123 car travel 36, hazards hire 555 road conditions 555 road rules 556 Carnival 22, 435 Caryatids 68-9, 72, 75, 433 castles, see also fortresses Agios Georgios Kastro 489 Bazeos Castle 195 Byzantine-Genoese Castle 407 Castle of Antiparos Castle of Faraklos 313 Castle of Lykourgos Logothetis 387 Castle of Monolithos 316 Castle of Myrina 414 Castle of the Knights 341 Hora (Kythira) 501 Kastro (Astypalea) 348 Kritinia Castle 316 Pandeli Castle 358 Venetian Castle 285 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals caves Bekiris Cave 144 Blue Cave (Parasta) 327 Blue Caves (Zakynthos) 498 Cave of Antiparos 185 Cave of Philoctetes 416 Cave of Sykia Olymbi 399 Cave of the Apocalypse 365 Cave of the Sacred Icon of Agios Giannis 198 Cave of Zeus 193 Dikteon Cave Harkadio Cave 332 Ideon Cave 270 Kefallonia 490 Koutouki Cave 125 Matala 265 cell phones 548 cemeteries Ancient Cemetery (Parikia) 180 Athens First Cemetery 87 East Moudros Allied Military Cemetery 416 Keramikos 76-7 Krithoni war cemetery 360 Mausoleum of Inousses 399 Mycenaean cemetery 201 Portianos Military Cemetery 416 WWI Serbian cemetery 469 ceramics 459, 460 changing of the guard ceremony 82 children, travel with 52-4 Athens 90 food 536 Chios 392-9, 393 Chios Town 394-6, 394 churches & cathedrals 433 Agios Nikolaos Rangavas 83 Church of Agii Theodori 83 Church of Agios Eleftherios 77 Church of Agios Ioannis 314 Church of Agios Nikolaos 276 Church of Agios Spyridon 469 Church of Agios Therapon Church of Agios Titos Church of Dionysios 497 Church of Kapnikarea 77 Church of Panagia Evangelistria 160 Church of Panagia Kera 291 Church of Sotira Lykodimou 83 Churches of the Taxiarhes 398 Panagia Drosiani 195 Panagia Ekatondapyliani 179 Panagia Glykofilousa 409 Panagia Paraportiani 171 cinema 113, 529 civil war 515 Classical Age 510 classical architecture 525 coffee 536 Colossus of Rhodes 304 conservation 540 consulates 544 convents, see monasteries & convents cooking courses 43-4 Corfu 148, , 466, 14, 33 Corfu Town , 470-1, 33 costs 17, 36, 40-1, 547 INDEX A- C

3 568 INDEX C - F courses, see also individual locations cooking 43-4, 459 language 88, 167, 382, 405 painting 454 pottery 459 reiki 458 yoga 454 credit cards Cretaquarium Crete 148, , accommodation 248 climate 248 food 248 highlights history 249 travel seasons 248 travel to/from , 253 travel within 252 cruising Crusades, the culture 19, , 506-7, currency customs regulations Cyclades , 154 accommodation 153 books 211 climate 153 food 153 highlights 154 history 155 island hopping 155 travel seasons 153 Cycladic civilisation 508 cycling 51, 552 Corfu 474 Evia 442 Kefallonia 490 Naxos 188 Skopelos 450 Thasos Cyprus issue 516 D dance 532 dangers, see safe travel Delos 230-2, 432 Diafani 323 disabilities, travellers with discount cards 544 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 diving & snorkelling 48, 51 Alonnisos 454 Amorgos 205 Antiparos 185 Athens 88 Chios 398 Corfu 474 Hora Sfakion 281 Ios 208 Kalymnos 353, 356 Lefkada 483 Milos 236 Mykonos 176 Paros 184 Plakias 271 Rhodes Town 308 Samos 388 Samothraki 419 Skiathos 447 Thasos 426 Dodecanese , 300 accommodation 299 climate 299 food 299 highlights 300 travel seasons 299 dolphins 267, 450, 540 domatia 543 Donousa Dorian people 509 drinks 45, 536 beer 215 coffee 536 kitron 194, 195 ouzo 45 wine 23, 367, 443, 536 driving, see car travel Durrell, Gerald 475 Durrell, Lawrence 475 E Easter celebrations 22, 435, 523, 10, 600 economy 506-7, , 521 Eftalou Beach 409 El Greco 528 Elafonisi 286 electricity 544 Elefsina 125 Eleonora s falcon 539 Elounda embassies 544 Embonas 316 Emborios (Halki) Emborios (Kalymnos) 356 Emborios (Nisyros) emergencies 17 language endangered species 461 environmental issues 540 Epta Piges 313 Erechtheion 72 Eretria 440 Ermoupoli 165-8, 166 etiquette 19 churches 160 food 46 Evans, Arthur 259 Evdilos events, see festivals & events Evia , 438 climate 437 highlights 438 travel seasons 437 Evpalinos Tunnel 387 exchange rates F Falasarna 280 ferry companies 40 ferry travel, see boat travel festivals & events 22-3, 435 Aegina Fistiki Fest 130 Armata 142 arts 89, 424 August Moon Festival 23 Carnival 22 Dionysos Theatre Festival 376 Easter 22-3, 23, 10 Epiphany 22 Feast of Agios Vasilios (St Basil) 22 Feast of St John the Baptist 23 Festival of Agios Georgios (St George) 23 film 91 food 43, 130, 536 Frikaria Music Festival 376 Half-Marathon (Skyros) 458 Hellenic Festival 23, 91 Icarus Festival for Dialogue Between Cultures 376 Ikaria 374 Ikaria International Chess Tournament 376 Independence Day 22 International Eressos Women s Festival 410 International Mountain Biking Race Kalymnos Skandalopetra Diving Festival 353 May Day 23 Miaoulia Festival 137 music 91, 376 Navy Week 23 North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 353 Philippi Thasos Festival 424 rembetika music festival 457 Rockwave Festival 23 Skyros carnival 460 theatre 376 Wine & Cultural Festival (Evia) 443 Wine Festival (Lipsi) 367 feta 533 Filiki Eteria (Friendly Society) 512 film 506, 529 festivals 91 Filopappou Hill 75 Finiki 322 Fira , 216 fires 538 fish spas 218 Fiskardo flora Folegandros , 227 folk music 530 Fonias River 422 food 20, 42-6, 430, 533-6, 11, bread 382 children 53 cooking courses 43-4, 459 eateries 45 etiquette 46 festivals 43, 130 language markets 43 olives 408 seasons 43 street food 102 tyropita 456 forests 538 fortresses, see also castles Fortezza (Rethymno) 266 Fortress of Agia Mavra 482 Fortress of Drakanos 378 Frangokastello Frankish Kastro (Parikia) 180-1

4 569 Frankish Kastro (Plaka) 234 Kales Fortress 295 Koules Venetian Fortress 255 Mytilini Town Neo Frourio 469 Palaio Frourio 468 Venetian Fort (Sitia) 293 Fourni Islands 382-3, Frangokastello 281 Fry 325 G Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi) 296 Gaïos 478 galleries Art Space 222 Athens 89 Cultural Foundation of Tinos 160 Fish & Olive 194 National Museum of Contemporary Art 85 New Art Gallery 305 Patmos Gallery 364 Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music 89 gardens, see parks & gardens Gavdos Island Gavrio 156 gay travellers Athens 111 Mykonos 174 Gennadi 317 geography geology 537 Geometric Age 509 Gialos Glossa 451 Glyfada 87 golden jackal golf 474 gorges Agia Irini Gorge 284 Dimosari Gorge 443 Imbros Gorge 284 Rouvas Gorge 264 Samaria Gorge 282-3, 11, 49, 151 Zakros Gorge 295 Gortyna 264 Gournia Gramvousa Peninsula 280 grand promenade (Athens) 77 Great Idea, the Greek language H Hadrian s Arch 78 Hadrian s Library 77 Halki 194, Halkida Hania 273-9, 274-5, 14 health Hellenic Festival 23, 91 Hellenistic architecture 525 highlights 8-15, 31, 6 hiking 20, 48, 50-1 Alonnisos 454 Amorgos 205 Andros 159 Corfu 474 Evia 440, 442, Fourni Islands 382 Ghria Vathra Canyon (Samothraki) 421 Hydra Ikaria 378 Imbros Gorge 284 Ithaki 493 Kalymnos 353 Kefallonia 490 Milos 234 Mylopotamos 502 Plakias 271 Psara 401 Rethymno 267 Rouvas Gorge 264 Samaria Gorge Samos 390 Samothraki 418 Sifnos 239 Skiathos 448 Skopelos 452 Skyros 459, 462 Symi 330 Thasos 427 Tilos Zakros Gorge 295 Hill of the Pnyx 76 Hippocrates 339 Hippocrates Plane Tree 341 history Alexander the Great 511 Archaic Age Athens 62-6 Balkan Wars 514 Byzantine Empire 63, civil war 515 Classical Age 510 Crete 249 Crusades Cycladic civilisation 508 Cyprus 516 Geometric Age 509 Great Idea independence Minoan civilisation 221, 249, Ottoman Rule 63, 512 Roman era 63, Sparta 63 WWI WWII 515 hitchhiking 556 holidays 547 Homer 211, 396, 397, Hora (Amorgos) 204 Hora (Andros) Hora (Astypalea) Hora (Folegandros) Hora (Ios) Hora (Kythira) 501 Hora (Kythnos) 244 Hora (Mykonos) 171-6, 172, 21 Hora (Naxos) , 190 Hora (Patmos) Hora (Samothraki) Hora (Serifos) 242 Hora Sfakion Hora (Tinos) horse riding Corfu 474 Kalymnos 355 Naoussa 183 Naxos Thasos 426 horses (Skyrian) 461 hostels & hotels 543 hot springs Agios Kirykos Eftalou 409 Lefkada 377 Loutra (Therma) 421 Milos 235 Polyhnitos 412 Santorini (Thira) 214 Therma 378 House of Cleopatra 231, 36 hunting 539 Hydra , 147, 135, 12, 146 Hydra Town , 138 I Ierapetra Ikaria 149, , Imbros Gorge 284 immigration 521 independence Inousses insurance 545, 546 internet access 546 internet resources 17, 48, 114, 116 Ionian Islands , 464 accommodation 463 climate 463 food 463 highlights 464 travel seasons 463 Ios , 207 Ioulida 246 Iraklia Iraklio 252-9, 254 Iraklio market 256 Ireon island hopping 30-7 Ithaki 492-5, 486 itineraries 24-9, 24, 26, 29, see also walking tours Athens 62 cruising J jellyfish 545 K Kalamitsa Kalymnos 351-6, 352, 8 Kamares Kamari Kamariotissa Kanaris, Konstantinos 400, 401 Kapsali Karavostamo Karavostasis Karpathos , 319 Karystos Kasos 324-6, 324 Kassiopi 474 Kastellorizo (Megisti) Kastellorizo Village Kastro (Sifnos) 239 Katapola Kathisma beach 483, 148 Kato Zakros Katouni Bridge 503 INDEX F- K

5 570 INDEX K- M kayaking Alonnisos 454 Chios 398 Evia 442 Kefallonia 490 Lefkada 483 Milos 236 Paros 184 Kazantzakis, Nikos 257, 529 Kea (Tzia) 245-7, 245 Kefallonia , 486 Kefalos Bay Keramikos 76-7 Keros 199 Kimolos 236, 234 Kissamos kitesurfing 48, 48-50, 184 kitron 194, 195 Klima 235 Knights Quarter (Rhodes Town) Knossos , 524, 259 Korissia Kos 148, , 340 Kos Town 341-5, Koufonisia Krithoni Kritsa 291 Kymi Kypris, Yorgos 220 Kythira , 500 Kythnos 243-5, 243 L laïka 530 Lakka 479 Lakki 359 language courses 88, 167, 382, 405 whistling language 443 Lasinthos Eco-Park 297 Lasithi Plateau Lavrio 123 Laws of Gortyna 264 Lefkada 149, 480-4, 481 Lefkada Town 482 Lefkes 184 Lefkos 322 legal matters 546 Leros , 357 lesbian travellers Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Athens 111 Mykonos 174 Skala Eresou 410 Lesvos (Mytilini) 147, , 402, 14, 147 Limni 442 Limni Vouliagmenis 88 Limnos , 413 Linaria 461 Lindos Lipsi 366-9, 367 Lipsi Village literature 257, 475, Little Cyclades , 196 Livadi 241-2, 350 Livadia live music , 532 loggerhead turtles 498 Loggos 479 Loutra Edipsou Loutra (Therma) Loutraki 451 Loutro 283 Lykavittos Hill 85-7 M Magazia 460-1, 479 Malia 263 Mandraki maps 546 Marathi Marathon marine parks, see national parks & reserves markets Agora (Hania) 276 Central Market (Athens) 114, 42 food 43 Iraklio 256 Monastiraki Flea Market (Athens) 114 Potamos 502 Masouri 355 Mastihari 346 Mastihohoria 397 Matala 264-6, 152 mayirefta Megalo Horio 335 Meganisi Menetes Merihas Mesta mezedhes 534 Milos 232-6, 234 Minoan civilisation 221, 249, 508-9, 524 Minotaur 524 Mitsotakis, Konstandinos 517 mobile phones 548 Mohlos 292 Molos Molyvos (Mithymna) 407-9, 28 monasteries & convents Convent of Galataki 442 Holy Monastery of Zoodohos Pigi 364 Mantamados 407 Monastery of St John the Theologian 364 Monastery of the Apocalypse 364 Moni Agiou Gerasimou 489 Moni Arkadiou 269 Moni Evangelistrias 447 Moni Faneromenis 482 Moni Hozoviotissis Moni Panagias Kounistras 447 Moni Panagias Spilianis 337, 388 Moni Preveli Moni Taxiarhon 242 Moni Taxiarhou Mihail Panormiti 332 Moni Toplou 294 Moni Ypsilou Nea Moni 396 Skopelos money 16-17, 19, discount cards 544 monk seals 454, 455, 539 mosques Mosque of Kioutsouk Hasan 273 Mosque of Murad Reis 307 Mosque of Süleyman 307 Neratzes Mosque 267 Yeni Tzami 405 mosquitoes 545 motorcycle travel mountain biking, see cycling mountain refuges 543 mountaineering 277 mountains Mt Dirfys 440 Mt Eros 140 Mt Kerkis 390 Mt Kynthos 231 Mt Ohi 443 Mt Pantokrator 473 Mt Parnitha 123 Mt Profitis Ilias 323 Mt Psiloritis 270 Mt Ypsario 427 Mt Zeus 193 museums 20, see also archaeological museums, Byzantine museums Acropolis Museum 74-5, 75 Aegean Maritime Museum 171 Antivouniotissa Museum Bee Museum Benaki Museum 84-5 Bouboulina s Museum 142 Christos Capralos Museum 131 Church Museum (Mandraki) 337 Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian Museum 188 Ecclesiastical Museum of Milos 233 Epigraphical Museum 85 Folk Museum (Agios Nikolaos) 287 Folk Museum (Naxos) 188 Folklore Museum (Aegina Town) 130 Folklore Museum (Agios Georgios) 297 Folklore Museum (Naoussa) 183 Folklore Museum of the Northern Sporades 454 Greek Folk Art Museum 82-3 Hellenic Children s Museum 90 Hellenic Maritime Museum 120 Herakleidon Museum 84 Historical Archives Museum of Hydra 137 Historical & Folk Art Museum 267 Historical Museum of Crete 255 Industrial Museum of Ermoupoli 166 Jewish Museum 83 Kanellopoulos Museum 82 Karystos Museum 442

6 571 Korgialenio History & Folklore Museum 487 Lazaros Koundouriotis Historical Mansion 136 Manos Faltaïts Folk Museum 458 Maritime Museum of Crete 276 Maritime Museum (Oia) 219 Megaro Gyzi Museum 214 Milos Folk and History Museum 234 Milos Mining Museum 233 Mineralogical Museum 123 Mitropolis Museum 188 Museum of Ancient Greek Music 220 Museum of Asian Art 469 Museum of Contemporary Art (Andros) Museum of Cretan Ethnology 265 Museum of Cycladic Art 85 Museum of Greek Children s Art 90 Museum of Greek Popular Instruments 85 Museum of Industrial Olive Oil Production 408 Museum of Islamic Art 77 Museum of Marble Crafts 162 Museum of Popular Art 238 Museum of Prehistoric Thira 214 Museum of Solomos 497 Museum of the Decorative Arts 305 Museum of the Memorial of the Refugees of Mykonos Folklore Museum 171 National Archaeological Museum 84, 92, 92 Natural History Museum 255 Natural History Museum of the Lesvos Petrified Forest 410 Nautical Museum 330 Nautical Museum of Inousses 399 Nikos Kazantzakis Museum 257 Permanent Collection of Ancient & Traditional Shipbuilding 276 Spetses Museum 142 Teriade Museum 405 Theophilos Museum 405 Volcanological Museum 339 Vrana Olive-Press Museum 408 War Museum (Athens) 90 War Museum (Lakki) 359 music 21, festivals 91, 376, 457 Mykonos , 170, 150 Mylopotamos 502 Mylopotas Myrina , 150 Myrties 355 Myrtos 296-7, 491 mythology 63, 305, 460 Mytilini Town 403-7, 404 N Naoussa National Archaeological Museum 84, 92, 92 national parks & reserves 538 Mt Parnitha National Park 123 National Marine Park of Alonnisos-Northern Sporades 454 National Marine Park of Zakynthos 498 nature Navagio Bay 498, 145 Naxos 149, , 186, 149 neoclassical architecture 526 Nikea Nisyros 335-9, 336, 27 northeastern Aegean Islands , 373 accommodation 372 climate 372 food 372 highlights 373 travel seasons 372 O Odysseus 492, 494 Oia , 5, 9 olives 408 Olymbos 323-4, 15, 19, 151 Olympic Games 66, 78 Ormos Ottoman architecture 526 Ottoman rule 512 outdoor activities ouzo 45 P painting courses 454 palaces Achillion Palace 475 Agia Triada 263 Malia 263 Palace of Knossos , 259, 13 Palace of St Michael & St George 468 Palace of the Grand Masters 306, 28 Phaestos 263 Zakros Palace Paleohora Pali 339 Paliki Peninsula Panagia Drosiani 195 Panathenaic Procession 74 Panathenaic Stadium 78 Pandeli 359 Papandreou, Andreas 517 Papandreou, Georgios , Paradeisos Waterfalls 421 Paralia Kymis Parikia , 180 parks & gardens Mon Repos Estate 469 National Gardens 78 Zappeio Gardens 78 Paros , Parthenon 71-2, 12 Patitiri Patmos 361-6, 362 Paxi 477-9, 478, 150 Peania 125 pensions 543 Pera Kastro 354 Perdika Petaloudes 316 Petra 409 petrified forest (Lesvos) 410 Phaestos 263 photography 547 Pigadia Piraeus 120-2, 120 Plaka Plakias planning activities basic budgeting 17 children, travel with 52-4, 90, 536 cruising first-time travellers food 42-6 Greek Islands regions 55-8 internet resources 17 island hopping 30-7 itineraries 24-9 transport 17 travel seasons 16, 31 Platanos police 17, 548 politics Pollonia 235 Polyhnitos population 507, Porch of the Caryatids 72, 433 Poros 133-5, 133 Poros Town Potamos 502 Pothia pottery 459, 460 Preveli Beach , 13 Propylaia 70-1 Psara Psili Ammos 390 Psyhro public holidays 547 Pyli 346 Pyrgi 397 Pythagoras 390 Pythagorio R Rafina 122 reiki courses 458 religion 507, rembetika 112, 457, 530, 531 reserves, see national parks & reserves restrooms 548 Rethymno 266-9, 266 retsina 536 Rhodes 147, , 302, 10 Rhodes Town , 306, 308-9, 146 Rina 356 rock climbing 353 Rockwave Festival 23 INDEX M - R

7 572 INDEX R- W Roman sites catacombs 234 Gortyna 264 Hadrian s Arch 78 Hadrian s Library 77 Roman Agora 76 Roman Baths (Athens) 78 Roman baths (Loutraki) 451 Roman cistern 322 Roman quarry 443 Tallaras Roman baths 350 S safe travel 17, Athens 115 children, travel with 53 sailing & yachting 39, 474 Samaria Gorge 282-3, 11, 49, 151 Sami Samos , Samothraki , 418 Sanctuaries of the Foreign Gods 230 Sanctuary of Artemis 125 Sanctuary of the Great Gods Sangri 195 San Michalis 168 Santorini (Thira) 147, 148, , 212, 9, 146, 149 Saronic Gulf Islands , 127 accommodation 126 climate 126 food 126 highlights 127 internet resources 130 island hopping 129 travel seasons 126 scams 115 Schinousa scuba diving, see diving & snorkelling sculpture 528 sea urchins 545 seals 454, 455 seasickness 37 senior travellers 544 Serifos 240-3, 241 Shipwreck Beach 498, 145 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 shopping 21 language 560 Sifnos , 237 Sikinos 225-6, 225 Sitia Skala (Angistri) Skala (Astypalea) Skala Eresou Skala (Patmos) Skiathos 444-8, 445 Skiathos Town Skopelos , 449 Skopelos Town Skyrian horses 461 Skyros , 458, 15 Skyros carnival 460 Skyros Town smoking 548 snakes 545 snorkelling, see diving & snorkelling Sougia Sparta 63 Spetses 141-4, 141 Spetses Town Spili 270 Spinalonga Island 291, 30 Sporades, the , 438 accommodation 437 climate 437 food 437 highlights 438 travel seasons 437 St John the Divine 365 Steni 440 storks 539 surfing 48-50, 163 swallows 215 sweets Symi , 329 synagogues Etz Hayyim Synagogue 276 Kahal Shalom Synagogue 307 Syros 163-9, 164 syrtaki 532 T taxis 556 Telendos Islet telephone services 548 temples Erechtheion 72 Parthenon 71-2 Sanctuaries of the Foreign Gods 230 Sanctuary of Artemis 125 Sanctuary of the Great Gods Sanctuary of the Kabeiroi 416 Temple of Aphaia 131 Temple of Aphrodite 305 Temple of Apollo 130 Temple of Artemis 469 Temple of Asclepius 346 Temple of Athena Nike 71 Temple of Demeter 195 Temple of Dionysos 412 Temple of Olympian Zeus 78 Temple of Poseidon 123 Temple to Athena (Ancient Kamiros) 316 Temple to Athena (Lindos) 314 Thasos 422-8, 423 Thasos (Limenas) theatres 436 Ancient Delos 231 Apollo Theatre 168 festivals 376 National Theatre 113 Odeon of Herodes Atticus 74, 436 Theatre of Dionysos 72-4 thermal baths Kythnos 244 Loutra Edipsou 441 Thirasia 223 Tilos 332-5, 333 time 16, 548 Tinos , 161 tipping 19, 41, 547 toilets 548 tombs Lycian tomb (Kastellorizo) 327 Marathon Tomb 125 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier 82 tourist information 548 tourist police 548 tours 556, see also walking tours, boat trips, individual locations Homeric sites 493, 494 Tragaea 193 train travel 551-2, 556 travel to/from the Greek Islands 550 travel within the Greek Islands Triopetra Tris Boukes Bay 462 Trypiti Turkish baths Hammam Turkish Baths (Rhodes Town) 307 Therma 416 Turkish Baths (Athens) 77 turtles 498, 539, 151 tyropita 456 Tzermiado 297 V vacations 547 Vaï 294, 27 Valley of the Butterflies 316 Vasiliki 483 Vatera Vathy (Ithaki) Vathy (Samos) 385-7, 386 Vathys 356 vegetarian travellers 536 Vidos Island 469 visas 16, 549 volcanoes Nisyros 338 Santorini (Thira) 214 Volcanological Museum 339 volunteering 549 Vravrona 125 Vromolithos 359 W walking, see hiking walking tours Athens 90, 94-5, 95 wars & battles Balkan Wars 514 Battle of Marathon Greek Civil War 515 Persian Wars War of Independence WWI WWII 515 water (drinking) 241, waterskiing 50 whistling language 443 wildflowers wildlife windsurfing 48, 49, see also kitesurfing Corfu 474 Mykonos 176 Naxos 188

8 573 Paros 184 Rhodes 317 Syros 166 Vasiliki (Lefkada) 483 wine 536 festivals 23, 367, 443 wineries Embonas 316 Ikaria 380 Iraklio 262 Kefallonia 489 Naoussa 182 Rhodes 316 Santorini (Thira) Sikinos 226 Vathy (Samos) 385 women travellers 549 work 549 World Heritage sites Ancient Delos Ireon 389 Nea Moni 396 X Xirokambos 360 Y yachting, see sailing & yachting yoga courses 454 Z Zakros Zakynthos 495-9, 496 Zakynthos Town Zaros 264 zoos 90 INDEX W-Z

9 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.

10 574 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Taxi T-bane/Tunnelbana station Train station/railway Tram Tube station U-Bahn/Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

11 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.

12 564 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alan Graham, Andy White, Anette Uddqvist, Anita Vriend, Apostolos Spyros, Christopher Hansen, David Mason, Dimitris Efstratiadis, Eberhard Zantke, Efrat Ben Shalom, Ester van Zuylen, George Moss, Jeroen Meeboer, Jesse Naiman, Jim Maas, JJ Wytrwal, Joske de Roode, Judith Bowman, Katarzyna Podgorska, Katy Tydeman, Kit Arthur, Lia Spartali, Linda Moss, Linda Swinn, Lorna Hitchin, Marina Metalios, Marjatta Reinius, Martijn Huijnen, Martin Kummel, Megan van Rooyen, Melike Sayman, Nicola Long, Philip Howard, Ralf Kaefer, Roland Keller, Roy Sayegh, Sofia Lizzio, Stephen Lioy, Stephen Strand, Susan Howard, Walter Lars AUTHOR THANKS Korina Miller An enormous thank you to Mum and Dad for minding the fort while I was away and making it possible for me to take this project on. Thank you to my fabulous daughters, Simone and Monique, for letting me work and also encouraging me to take breaks. Thank you to Katie, Anna, Angela and Anthony at Lonely Planet for their support and to my co-authors for their insights and camaraderie. A warm efharisto to all of the people I met on the road both locals and travellers who shared their stories, knowledge and enthusiasm for Greece. And to Kirk, my own personal Bukowski. Alexis Averbuck Honour to Alexandra Stamopoulou for alwaysinspiring tips and overall inspiration. Marina Flenga is, yet again, a fairy godmother, connecting me to islanders everywhere. Marilee Anargyrou Kyriazakou and Cali Doxiadis (Kerkyra), Olga Karayiannis and Eleni Masselou (Andros), Elina Dallas, Dimitris Foussekis and Maria Liarikos (Tinos), Michail Karampatsos and Michalis Pateras (Syros), Christiana Sofianopoulou and Dimitris Liaroutsos (Serifos), Vula Bolou and Sotiris Iliadis (Sifnos), Manita Scocimara-Ponghis (Kefallonia), and Petros Haritatos and Mike Tsanas (Spetses) shared their love and knowledge of their islands. In Athens, Ilias Nikolaidis and Elina Lychoudi were the King and Queen of Nightlife. Margarita, Kostas and Zisis, and Anthy and Costas made it home. Michael Stamatios Clark Ευχαριστω, thank you, to those who helped make the road a welcoming destination in particular, Heather Parsons, George and Mahi (Skopelos); Gisela (Skiathos), Chrysanthi Zygogianni, Niko Sekkes (Skyros); Kostas and

13 Bessie (Alonnisos) and Kyrillos on Evia; the Fouskas family, Vasillis and Demetra, Kostas and Nana Vatsis (Ikaria). Special thanks to fellow authors Kate and Chris, and to Korina Miller for coordinating grace. And to my family Janet, Melina and Alexander Greek kisses on both cheeks for all. Victoria Kyriakopoulos Thanks to the great Greek Islands author team for sharing their food views and experiences, and to the Lonely Planet editors for another opportunity to write about Greek food and culture. Thanks to my ever-supportive husband Chris, and my Greek family and friends and the special and generous people who have made travelling in Greece such a joy. Kali antamosi next time my son Kostas will get his first taste of the Greece I love. Andrea Schulte-Peevers Fond thanks to all the wonderful friends and strangers who ve provided valuable local insights about Crete before and during my research ramblings around the island. These include (in no particular order): Miriam Bers, Utha Herzbruch-Ruess, Yiannis Zervakis, the Papadospiridaki family, Stravroula (Kissamos), Lynn (Elounda), Madalina (Elounda) and Vaggelis Alegakis. Richard Waters My special thanks to everyone who made my trip more colourful with their filoxenia and generosity. In no particular order, Efi and Spyros, Marianna Angelou, Mikalis Melenos, Antonios, George, Rena Kioulafi, the Greek Tourist Board in London, Lily Alicabiotis, Ioannis at Kilindra, Enetikon Travel, Alexis at Afendoulis, Fokas, Ilidi Rock. My thanks, too, to the mapping and editorial team, and commissioning editors Katie O Connell and Anna Tyler. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Illustrations pp68 9, pp260 1 by Javier Martinez Zarracina. Cover photograph: Oia, Santorini; Sakis Papadopoulos/Getty Images. 565 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK This 8th edition of Lonely Planet s Greek Islands guidebook was researched and written by Korina Miller, Alexis Averbuck, Michael Stamatios Clark, Victoria Kyriakopoulos, Andrea Schulte-Peevers and Richard Waters. In addition to these authors, Chris Deliso, Des Hannigan, Janet White, Gina Tsarouhas, Will Gourlay, Paul Hellander, Miriam Raphael and Andrew Stone also worked on previous editions of the book. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet s London office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editors Katie O Connell, Anna Tyler Coordinating Editors Paul Harding, Kate Mathews, Branislava Vladisavljevic Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Coordinating Layout Designer Nicholas Colicchia Managing Editors Bruce Evans, Martine Power Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler Senior Editor Karyn Noble Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Penny Cordner, Laura Gibb, Anne Mulvaney Cover Research Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Rebecca Skinner Thanks to Anita Banh, Elin Berglund, Barbara Di Castro, Brigitte Ellemor, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Genesys India, Jouve India, Andi Jones, Katherine Marsh, Wayne Murphy, Catherine Naghten, Chad Parkhill, Trent Paton, Angela Tinson, Gina Tsarouhas

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