CONTENTS. Marettimo 85. Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd INTRODUCING SICILY 4 THE BEST OF SICILIAN ART & ARCHITECTURE 97

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1 Lonely Planet Pulications Pty Ltd LONELYPLANET.COM CONTENTS 25 CONTENTS INTRODUCING SICILY 4 GETTING STARTED 8 FESTIVALS & EVENTS 1 CULTURE 12 FOOD & DRINK 16 OUTDOORS 2 FAMILY TRAVEL 24 THE AUTHORS 28 ITINERARIES 29 PALERMO 33 GETTING STARTED 36 Introducing Palermo 38 Essential Information 39 Orientation 39 Walking Tour 4 Exploring Palermo 41 Festivals & Events 56 Gastronomic Highlights 56 Transport 59 AROUND PALERMO 6 Mondello 6 Monreale 6 Solunto 62 Ustica 63 WESTERN SICILY 65 GETTING STARTED 68 GOLFO DI CASTELLAMMARE 7 Castellammare del Golfo 7 Scopello 71 Around Scopello 71 San Vito lo Capo 72 TRAPANI 73 Essential Information 73 Orientation 73 Exploring Trapani 74 Gastronomic Highlights 76 Transport 78 AROUND TRAPANI 79 Erice 79 EGADI ISLANDS 82 Favignana 83 Levanzo 85 Marettimo 85 SALINE DI TRAPANI 86 Exploring Saline di Trapani 86 THE SOUTHWEST 87 Marsala 87 Mazara del Vallo 91 Around Mazara del Vallo 94 Selinunte 94 THE BEST OF SICILIAN ART & ARCHITECTURE 97 TYRRHENIAN COAST 15 GETTING STARTED 18 CEFALÙ 11 Essential Information 11 Exploring Cefalù 11 Gastronomic Highlights 112 Transport 113 AROUND CEFALÙ 114 PARCO NATURALE REGIONALE DELLE MADONIE 115 Casteluono 116 Petralia Soprana 118 Petralia Sottana 118 Around Petralia Sottana 119 Collesano 12 Driving Tour: Monti Madonie 12 PARCO REGIONALE DEI NEBRODI 122 San Marco d Alunzio 122 Around the Nerodi Regional Park 123 COASTAL RESORT VILLAGES 123 MILAZZO 125 Essential Information 125 Exploring Milazzo 125 Gastronomic Highlights 126 Transport 127 AEOLIAN ISLANDS 128 LIPARI 129 GETTING STARTED 132 Essential Information 134 Orientation 134 Exploring Lipari 135 Gastronomic Highlights 14

Introducing Palermo 38 Essential Information 39 Orientation 39 Walking Tour 4 Exploring Palermo 41 Festivals & Events 56 Gastronomic Highlights 56 Transport 59 AROUND PALERMO 6 Mondello 6 Monreale 6

2 26 CONTENTS LONELYPLANET.COM Nightlife 142 Transport 142 VULCANO 143 Essential Information 143 Orientation 143 Exploring Vulcano 143 Gastronomic Highlights 146 Transport 147 SALINA 147 Essential Information 148 Orientation 148 Exploring Salina 148 Gastronomic Highlights 15 Transport 151 PANAREA 152 Exploring Panarea 152 Transport 153 STROMBOLI 153 Essential Information 155 Orientation 155 Exploring Stromoli 155 Gastronomic Highlights 157 Transport 158 IONIAN COAST 159 GETTING STARTED 162 MESSINA 164 Essential Information 164 Orientation 164 Exploring Messina 164 Gastronomic Highlights 166 Transport 167 AROUND MESSINA 168 TAORMINA 168 Essential Information 169 Orientation 169 Exploring Taormina 169 Festivals & Events 172 Gastronomic Highlights 172 Nightlife 173 Recommended Shops 174 Transport 174 AROUND TAORMINA 174 Giardini-Naxos 174 CATANIA 176 Essential Information 176 Orientation 176 Exploring Catania 176 Festivals & Events 181 Gastronomic Highlights 181 Nightlife 184 Transport 185 RIVIERA DEI CICLOPI 186 Acireale 186 Aci Trezza 188 Aci Castello 188 MT ETNA 189 Essential Information 189 Orientation 189 Driving Tour: Etna s Western Flank 19 Exploring Mt Etna 191 Gastronomic Highlights 193 Transport 194 SYRACUSE & THE SOUTHEAST 195 GETTING STARTED 198 SYRACUSE 2 Essential Information 2 Orientation 2 Exploring Syracuse 21 Festivals & Events 28 Gastronomic Highlights 28 Nightlife 21 Recommended Shops 211 Transport 211 AROUND SYRACUSE 211 Exploring Around Syracuse 211 THE SOUTHEAST 212 Driving Tour: Baroque Towns 212 Valle dell Anapo & Around 213 Palazzolo Acreide 214 Noto 216 The Noto Coast 219 Modica 22 South of Modica 222 Ragusa 222 CENTRAL SICILY 227 GETTING STARTED 23 ENNA 232 Essential Information 232 Orientation 232 Driving Tour: Enna to Etna 232 Exploring Enna 235 Festivals & Events 236 Gastronomic Highlights 237 Transport 238 SOUTH OF ENNA 238 Piazza Armerina 238 Around Piazza Armerina 243 Caltagirone 243

148 Exploring Salina 148 Gastronomic Highlights 15 Transport 151 PANAREA 152 Exploring Panarea 152 Transport 153 STROMBOLI 153 Essential Information 155 Orientation 155 Exploring Stromoli 155

3 LONELYPLANET.COM CONTENTS 27 THE WESTERN INTERIOR 246 Caltanissetta 246 MEDITERRANEAN COAST 248 AGRIGENTO 249 Essential Information 249 Orientation 249 GETTING STARTED 252 Exploring Agrigento 254 Festivals & Events 258 Gastronomic Highlights 259 Nightlife 26 Transport 261 WEST OF AGRIGENTO 261 Agrigento to Sciacca 261 Sciacca 263 Around Sciacca 266 EAST OF AGRIGENTO 267 Gela 267 Around Gela 268 BACKGROUND 27 HISTORY 271 THE SICILIANS 28 SICILY ON PAGE & SCREEN 287 FOOD & WINE 292 FOOD & DRINK GLOSSARY 299 ACCOMMODATION 32 Palermo 33 Western Sicily 35 Tyrrhenian Coast 38 Aeolian Islands 39 Ionian Coast 312 Syracuse & the Southeast 314 Central Sicily 317 Mediterranean Coast 318 DIRECTORY 32 TRANSPORT 33 LANGUAGE 339 GLOSSARY 345 BEHIND THE SCENES 347 INDEX 354 MAP LEGEND 36 Aeolian Islands p128 Western Sicily p65 Palermo p33 Tyrrhenian Coast p15 Central Sicily p227 Ionian Coast p159 Mediterranean Coast p248 Syracuse & the Southeast p195

Events 258 Gastronomic Highlights 259 Nightlife 26 Transport 261 WEST OF AGRIGENTO 261 Agrigento to Sciacca 261 Sciacca 263 Around Sciacca 266 EAST OF AGRIGENTO 267 Gela 267 Around Gela 268

4 SICILY PARCO NATURALE REGIONALE DELLE MADONIE p115 Enjoy spectacular scenery and delectale cuisine that changes with the season To Livorno (5km); Genoa (7km) Ustica Ustica To Naples (22km) To Cagliari (28km) PALERMO Savour the street life in this Falcone- Capo magnificently dishevelled and San Vito Borsellino Gallo lo Capo Carini Airport Mondello magically alive city 1 Palermo Riserva Naturale Capo Zafferano dello Zingaro Castellammare Palermo ^ U Solunto Trapani Erice Termini Levanzo ] Bagheria Castellammare Partinico Imerese Marettimo Favignana del Golfo Alcamo Termini Imerese 1 Egadi Islands Favignana Vincenzo Florio Segesta Himera Caccamo Collesano Riserva Naturale U (Birgi) Airport Parco Naturale di Stagnone Mozia Corleone ] Regionale delle Capo Boeo Marsala Madonie To Tunis, Tunisia Partanna S (15km) Castelvetrano Mazara del Vallo Rocche di Cusa Caltaellotta Menfi Selinunte Sciacca Riera p65 WESTERN SICILY Blaze a gourmet trail along the wild and wonderful west coast Catania Messina Palermo Syracuse Taormina Trapani Pantelleria Pantelleria $ Mt Grande (836m) Agrigento Catania Messina p33 DISTANCE CHART (KM) Palermo Note: Distances are approximate Syracuse Taormina 359 AGRIGENTO Eraclea Minoa Agrigento Favara Scala dei Turchi ] Porto Empedocle Valley of the Temples Pelagic Islands p249 Traipse among the temples at this world-famous archaeological site Same Scale as Main Map MEDITERRANEAN SEA Lampione Lampedusa Palma di Montechiaro To Pelagic Islands (15km) To Porto Empedocle (2km) Linosa Linosa Lampedusa Licata

Naturale Capo Zafferano dello Zingaro Castellammare Palermo ^ U Solunto Trapani Erice Termini Levanzo ] Bagheria Castellammare Partinico Imerese Marettimo Favignana del Golfo Alcamo Termini Imerese 1

5 AEOLIAN ISLANDS! p128 LEGEND Primary Road Secondary Road Stromoli To Naples (3km) Tertiary Road Stromoli Tyrrhenian Sea Alicudi Aeolian Islands Filicudi Railway line Airport Panarea Salina ELEVATION Freeway Clim hissing volcanoes, laze in coalt-lue waters and party alongside the glitterati 5 km 25 miles San Pietro 25m 2m 15m 1m 5m 2m 1m Santa Marina Salina Mt Fossa $ delle Felci Lipari (962m) Lipari Porto di Levante Gioia Vulcano Punta del Faro Capo Milazzo Milazzo Ganzirri (Capo Peloro) Mortelle Milazzo Villa San Patti ] Giovanni Messina Sant'Agata Barcellona t a ^ Reggio di i Tyndaris di Militello Calaria San Marco r Castel Cefalù el o d'alunzio di Tusa ti P CALABRIA n i d Mo ero Casteluono Mistretta Mo nti N Parco Regionale Savoca U $ dei Nerodi Gola dell'alcantara $ (1979m) Mt Soro U PizzoadCaronara (1847m) Taormina ti M onie n o M Parco Giardini-Naxos Bronte dell'etna U Petralia Petralia $ Sottana Soprana Giarre Lago di Mt Etna Pozzillo Adrano (3329m) Riviera dei Ciclopi Acireale Enna ] Aci Trezza Paternò ; Aci Castello Ionian Sea Castello di ] Catania Misterianco ] Lomardia Morgantina 1 Caltanissettà To Ravenna Fontanarossa Aidone (15km) Piazza Armerina Palagonia Catania Mazzarino Villa Romana del Casale Lentini Ravanusa Caltagirone Augusta Megara Butera Hylaea M Necropoli di o Augusta Niscemi nti Pantalica Falconara I ; Castello Eurialo Floridia Gela ] ] Syracuse Palazzolo Akrai SYRACUSE p2 Acreide Vittòria Gela Cómiso ] Avola Explore elegant piazzas, classical ] Ragusa Noto ruins and an ancient Jewish ghetto Noto Modica Eloro Scicli Ispica U Riserva Naturale Oasi Faunistica di Vendicari Pachino Cava Pozzallo MEDITERRANEAN d'ispica SEA Capo Passero Capo delle Correnti To Valletta, To Valletta, Malta (6km) Malta (6km) Str Me aits o ssin f a ni Capo Capo d'orlando Calavà le i HILL TOWNS p212 Head to the rilliantly aroque hilltop towns of Noto, Modica and Ragusa

hissing volcanoes, laze in coalt-lue waters and party alongside the glitterati 5 km 25 miles San Pietro 25m 2m 15m 1m 5m 2m 1m Santa Marina Salina Mt Fossa $ delle Felci Lipari (962m) Lipari Porto di

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THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sicily Aeolian Islands p131 Western Sicily p84 p48 Tyrrhenian Coast p112 Central Sicily p216 Ionian Coast p158 Mediterranean Coast p233 & the Southeast p188 THIS EDITION