CBI Trade Statistics: Apparel CBI Market Intelligence Product Factsheet Cloves in Germany 1
In billion Introduction Despite the negative impact of the economic downturn on European domestic consumption of apparel, Europe continues to be an attractive market for exporters from developing countries. The reputation and global reach of European brands presents opportunities for exporters from developing countries to reach a wider market with apparel products. Opportunities are also increasingly emerging for suppliers from smaller supplying countries. Import Figure 1: European import trends for apparel (2-214), in billion 7 6 2 211 212 213 214 5 4 3 2 Developing countries Intra-EU trade Rest of the world Figure 2: Imports of leading European buyers (2-214), in billion 25 2 211 212 213 214 2 15 5 CBI Market Intelligence Trade Statistics for Apparel 2
Figure 3: European import trends by product group (2-214), in billion 9 8 2 211 212 213 214 7 6 5 4 3 2 Knitted/woven clothing Sports clothing Bodywear Leather clothing Fashion accessoires Babywear Figure 4: Leading developing country suppliers (214), by product group and their Compounded Annual Growth Rate () Fashion accessories 2-214 1 China 98 58% -.1% 2 India 289 19% 5.4% 3 Turkey 96 6.1%.1% 4 Pakistan 6 3.8% 5.5% 5 Vietnam 39 2.5% 26% 6 Indonesia 32 2.1% 11% 7 Tunisia 31 2.% 11% 8 Morocco 23 1.5% 5.7% 9 South Korea 11.7% 12% Bangladesh.6% 8.9% Body wear 1 China 3,19 47% 1.1% 2 Turkey 833 13% 1.9% 2-214 3 Bangladesh 439 6.8% 32.3% 4 Sri Lanka 433 6.7% 5.7% 5 India 296 4.6% 9% 6 Indonesia 179 2.8% 13% 7 Tunisia 165 2.5% -7% 8 Serbia 152 2.4% -.5% 9 Pakistan 131 2.% 11% Morocco 127 2.% -3.2% Leather clothing 1 India 364 41% 2.3% 2 Pakistan 25 23% 2.6% 2-214 3 Turkey 114 13.% -1.8% 4 China 113 12.9% -13.8% CBI Market Intelligence Trade Statistics for Apparel 3
5 Vietnam 17 1.9% 16% 6 Ukraine 13 1.5% 2% 7 Sri Lanka 12 1.3% 12% 8 Mauritius 8.9% 2.4% 9 Tunisia 7.8% 12% Morocco 7.8% -3.9% Baby wear 2-214 1 China 993 48% -6.5% 2 Bangladesh 37 18% 18.5% 3 India 289 13.9% 11.3% 4 Turkey 5 5.% 7.1% 5 Sri Lanka 79 3.8% 13% 6 Cambodia 46 2.2% 58% 7 Tunisia 37 1.8% -2% 8 Morocco 3 1.5% 3.% 9 Vietnam 22 1.1% 15% Pakistan 22 1.1% 15.2% Sports clothing 1 China 4579 64% 4.4% 2-214 2 Vietnam 492 7% 11.9% 3 Bangladesh 432 6.% 26.5% 4 Turkey 267 3.7% 2.7% 5 Cambodia 215 3.% 36% 6 India 2 2.8% 6% 7 Indonesia 186 2.6% 2% 8 Tunisia 149 2.1% -2.5% 9 Pakistan 99 1.4% 2% Morocco 98 1.4% 9.% Knitted and woven clothing 2-214 1 China 1449 33% -3.1% 2 Bangladesh 881 2% 13.3% 3 Turkey 6427 14.7% 2.1% 4 India 374 7.% -.5% 5 Morocco 176 4.% 2% 6 Cambodia 1379 3.2% 27% 7 Tunisia 1312 3.% -4% 8 Pakistan 126 2.9% 15.4% 9 Vietnam 1173 2.7% 14% Indonesia 64 1.4% -2.% CBI Market Intelligence Trade Statistics for Apparel 4
Interpretations and Opportunities Traditional European apparel manufacturers (e.g. Italy, France, Spain and Germany) continue to be appealing destinations for exporters from developing countries. China remains the leading supplier to the EU, accounting for almost 4% of imports from developing countries in several product groups (see Figure 4). The position of the Chinese apparel sector is slowly weakening, however, due to rising labour costs, Renminbi appreciation and decreasing domestic demand. China s largest competitor is currently the ASEAN region, which is growing as a centre of low-cost manufacturing. Imports from Cambodia, Bangladesh and Pakistan have grown especially strong in recent years. Smaller suppliers (e.g. Myanmar, Ethiopia, Madagascar and several Central American countries) are also increasingly finding their way to the European market. This is due in part to the tendency of buyers to adopt a low-cost strategy of sourcing from countries with relatively low wages. Another factor could be the change in the European Union s Generalised Scheme of Preferences (GSP; effective since 214), which specifies new import tariffs for products from developing countries. Under these provisions, countries that had previously been exempted from paying import tariffs (e.g. China, Morocco and Tunisia) no longer benefit from this scheme. This has consequently strengthened the position of countries that continue to fall under the GSP scheme (e.g. Cambodia, Bangladesh and Pakistan). Price and European import tariffs (GSP) will remain key drivers in procurement and relocation strategies. Although the sourcing of such items and collections continues to take place in Asia, retail and brand buyers are widening their outlook with regard to alternative sourcing destinations. The April 213 collapse of the Rana Plaza in Bangladesh was the largest of several fatal incidents at garment factories in recent years. These and other recent events involving Bangladeshi apparel producing factories could potentially change the outlook for trade with Europe in the next few years. Further guarantees on labour conditions will be required, and it will become increasingly important for origin countries to adhere to ILO standards. Nevertheless, given that changes to trade agreements within the European Commission require the signature of all member countries, this is likely to take some time. Tips: A strategic fit with buyers is important. For suppliers who are able to deliver high-quality apparel, good opportunities are to be found in the middle and upper-middle segments, in which independent retailers and luxury department stores seek to purchase high-quality garments at attractive prices. One major advantage of these buyers is that their order sizes are small to medium, with less pressure on delivery times. For additional information about buyers in the supply chain, refer to the CBI document on Market Channels and Segment for Apparel. Exporters from developing countries are encouraged to enter the market and to target niche areas with fewer competitors and considerable potential for growth. For example, see the CBI factsheets on Niche Sportswear or Sustainable Apparel. Another recommendation is to sell to smaller, independent speciality shops. Differentiation could also ease market entry. The GSP is scheduled for another review after 31 December 216. Consult the European Commission regularly in order to stay abreast of developments, as they could have a significant impact on your competitive position. Work collaboratively with your buyers with regard to their expectations; encourage long-term sourcing relationships and strive for continuous improvement. A proactive approach by suppliers from developing countries with regard to respecting labour standards and addressing sustainability issues could become a deciding factor in the choice of partners. Export Clothing exports from Europe continue to increase. Further reductions in trade barriers are likely to stimulate European manufacturers to increase production and exports. CBI Market Intelligence Trade Statistics for Apparel 5
In billion Figure 5: European apparel export trends (2-214), in billion 7 6 2 211 212 213 214 5 4 3 2 Intra-EU trade Rest of the world Developing countries Figure 6: Export by country (2-214), in billion 25 2 211 212 213 214 2 15 5 Interpretations and Opportunities Germany is the most important exporter of apparel. Both within and outside of Europe, German manufacturing is highly regarded as synonymous with high quality and reliability. In addition to being an important exporter, Italy is a creative hub for fashion and apparel. France also remains an important centre for export as both a centre of trade and a creative hub for apparel and fashion. Eastern and South-eastern European countries (e.g. Poland, Romania and Slovakia) also represent important and growing producers and exporters. These countries will see further growth in the coming years, due to growth in the domestic market and easy access to the EU, Russia, EFTA, Turkey and the Middle East. Russia and the US remain the most important non-european markets. Tips: Italian and French brands remain very attractive to both traditional and new consumer countries (BRIC). Collaboration with buyers from these countries therefore presents an opportunity. Exporters from developing countries should approach Italian buyers with innovative and relatively low-priced products. Germany, Spain and the United Kingdom are important exporters, in addition to being important destination markets for the products of exporters from developing countries, as they are able to reach several other markets within and outside Europe with their branded products. Eastern and South-eastern European countries are also attractive destinations for the products of exporters from developing countries. For example, products can be exported to these countries specifically for further processing (e.g. denim washing and finishing), due to the large presence of factories. In addition, they can grant access to other European countries, as well as to Russia, Turkey and the Middle East. For additional information, refer to the CBI document on Market Channels and Segments for Apparel. CBI Market Intelligence Trade Statistics for Apparel 6
Production Clothing is a major sector of European industry, with a workforce of nearly a million people. The European textile and clothing sector is based on small and medium-sized enterprises. With its small, specialised companies, the European textile and clothing industry is at a crucial phase, given the increasing level of competition and rising production costs. Eastern European countries have become important centres for apparel manufacturing by European companies, due to their ability to cope with short delivery times, relatively low wages, the need to guarantee a qualified labour force, along with the presence of a developed infrastructure and relatively high standards for corporate social responsibility (CSR). Figure 7: European apparel production*(29 213), by product group, in billion 25 29 2 211 212 213 2 15 5 Knitted/woven clothing Fashion accessoires Bodywear Sports clothing Leather clothing Babywear *Apparent production (Prodcom) Figure 8: European production (213), in % 2% 2% 3% 4% 12% 46% Italy Spain Romania Portugal France 6% UK 7% Germany Poland 8% % Bulgaria Other *Apparent production Data source: Eurostat (Prodcom) 215 CBI Market Intelligence Trade Statistics for Apparel 7
Figure 9: European apparel production,* by country excl. major producers, in billion 18 16 14 12 8 6 4 2 29 2 211 212 213 Data source: Eurostat (Prodcom) 215 Interpretations and opportunities The European apparel industry exhibited a varied picture between 29 and 213, with several product groups undergoing strong growth: fashion accessories (11% ) and leather clothing (7.8% ). The production of all other product groups decreased, most notably in the case of knitted and woven clothing (-3.6%) and baby wear (- 3.7% ). The survival and competitiveness of the European industry will require innovation in terms of both products and materials. Apparel production is declining in many of Europe s core manufacturing countries, with the exception of Portugal. Notably, production has increased in Bulgaria and Croatia, and Eastern European countries have become important centres for apparel manufacture, providing short delivery times, a qualified labour force, a developed infrastructure and relatively high standards of CSR. In Eastern European countries, official standards for social security and the rights of workers are usually high. Tip: Exporters who can innovate for the European market by introducing new natural fibres and materials could find opportunities with European buyers seeking to revamp their competitive advantage. Connecting with Eastern European producers might help to reduce barriers and create a preferential route for exporters from developing countries who would like to reach the European market. Consumption Although consumption has declined since 211, Europe continues to be an attractive destination market for the products of exporters from developing countries. CBI Market Intelligence Trade Statistics for Apparel 8
In billion Figure : EU apparel consumption* (29 213), by product group, in billion 6 5 29 2 211 212 213 4 3 2 Knitted/woven clothing Bodywear Sports clothing Babywear Leather clothing Fashion accessoires *Apparent consumption (Prodcom) Figure 11: Apparel consumption* in the top European countries (29 213), in billion 2 18 16 14 12 8 6 4 2 29 2 211 212 213 *Apparent consumption Data source: Eurostat (Prodcom) 215 Figure 12: European apparent consumption* (213), in % Germany 24% 17% United Kingdom France Italy 2% 2% 4% 4% 8% 11% 12% 16% Spain Netherlands Austria Sweden Portugal Other *Apparent consumption Data source: Eurostat (Prodcom) 215 Interpretations and opportunities Consumption in several large consuming countries (e.g. Germany and the Netherlands) has displayed significant growth in recent years. The largest declines were experienced in Southern Europe, most notably in Greece and Spain. CBI Market Intelligence Trade Statistics for Apparel 9
Some Eastern European countries are also experiencing growth in the demand for apparel, with Estonia and Latvia experiencing particularly high increases in consumption in 213. Fashion accessories constitute the most strongly growing product category, with amounting to 1.5% for the period 29 213. Knitted and woven clothing (-1% per year) and leather apparel (-.6%) showed the most negative development of all product groups. The total demand for apparel decreased by an average of -.3% per year. In addition to the European market, many opportunities can also be found in the global marketplace. Emerging markets are growing particularly rapidly. For example, the global market for women s apparel is expected to grow by about 5% per year in the coming decade. Growth in this market is expected to be stronger in emerging nations than it is in mature markets (e.g. the European Union). The further development of cities in emerging markets will be a major force driving this growth (McKinsey, 214). Tips: Although domestic consumption is diminishing in traditional Western European countries, they are retaining their status in terms of creativity and quality of manufacturing, and they are likely to have no difficulty finding new markets for their products where consumption is still growing. Exporters from developing countries could address these markets either directly or through buyers from traditional manufacturing countries who export to countries with potential for growth. Regional and global markets also provide interesting opportunities. Promising targets include local, BRIC and ASEAN countries, as well as the European Union. CBI Market Intelligence Trade Statistics for Apparel
CBI Market Intelligence P.O. Box 93144 259 AC The Hague The Netherlands www.cbi.eu/market-information marketintel@cbi.eu This survey was compiled for CBI by CREM B.V. Disclaimer CBI market information tools: http://www.cbi.eu/disclaimer January 216