Steel Roofing & Siding s from Installation & Care Guide The information contained in this installation guide is intended to be an aid, and does not depict all possible situations. Modifications are the responsibility of the designer/user, and should take into account climate conditions such as wind and snow. Wherever possible, panels should be lapped away from prevailing winds. Requirements - All panels described in this book require a roof pitch of 3:12 or greater. Substrates - These details show the roofing panels over solid substrates. Many of our systems can be installed over spaced support members (skip sheeting). Please consult a representative for more information. Steel Roofing & Siding s from 2701 East Valley Road P.O. Box 329 Renton, WA 98057-0329 Phone: (425) 264-0264 FAX: (425) 264-0265 soundbuildingsupply.com Underlayments - Prior to panel installation, a minimum of one layer of 30# felt (or two layers of 15# felt) should be installed per the felt manufacturer s recommendations. The underlayment should be lapped with all flashings in a shingle-like manner. When a premium underlayment is required, a selfadhering, cold-applied rubberized asphalt membrane should be specified. Granulated products are not an acceptable as underlayment, and their use will void your warranty. Oil-Canning - Flat metal surfaces will display waviness (commonly referred to as oil-canning). This is the result of steel mill tolerances, and variations in the substrate and roofing underlayments. Oil canning is a characteristic, not a defect of panels manufactured from light-gauge metal. s are factory corrective-levelled to minimize oil-canning. Oil-canning is not a cause for panel rejection (Oil-canning can be minimized by installing Sound-Lok s pencil-ribbed or striated panels instead of flat panel configurations). Expansion & Contraction - Both the panels and the flashings must be installed in such a way as to allow for expansion and contraction of the materials, especially when long lengths are used. Drag Load Screw - s must be drag loaded at the top of the panel to resist drag caused by the weight of the panel, live loads, and snow loads. The intensity of the drag load is a function of slope, the loads involved, and the length of the panels. Warranty - offers a 40 year transferable paint warranty on all SMP and Kynar products. This warranty is only valid when registered within the terms of the warranty. Please contact a representative for more information.
Steel Roofing & Siding s from Step 2 - Head Flashing 1. The head flashing should be placed above the top of the curb, so that it can be marked for cutting and bending. The flap that is to be bent should extend past each end of the curb. The cuts should be made to a depth that matches the height of the curb (i.e. 3 1/2 deep for a 2 X 4 curb). Bend the flap up until it is parallel to the curb (usually 90 for a skylight, less for a chimney). Step 3 - Head flashing Assembly & Installation 1. Prepare the corner flashings by notching one leg out of a length of 90 L metal, and then bending the cut leg at 90. Make sure that the bent leg of the corner flashing extends at least 4 in from the corner of the curb, and that the L shaped leg matches the overlap of the head flashing. 2. Position the head flashing and corners around the curb and over the panels as shown in the illustration. Be sure to caulk all joints where the panels and flashings meet (laps, seams, etc.). Steel Roofing & Siding s from Step 4 - Final Assembly 1. Install the remaining upper panels now. When installing the upper panels, leave 2 to 4 of space between the bottom of the panels and the vertical (bent up) face of the head flashing. Be sure the panels overlap the head flashing by at least 8. Seal between the panels and the head flashing using butyl tape or caulking. 2. The Bottom Endwall Flashing should be installed next. Cut the bottom endwall flashing two inches wider on each side (4 total) than the width of the curb. Notch the bottom lip of the flashing to accomodate the ribs of the panels. Cut 2 along the upper bend of the flashing on each end. 3. Bend the top end of the sidewall flashing around the top of the curb and run it down the side. Notch the bottom end of the flashing so it will run underneath the bottom end-wall flashing. Fold the 2 ends of the endwall flashing over the sidewall flashing to finish. Caulk and seal as needed. 4. Fasten all components as needed, using rivets or neoprene gasketed screws. 2-4 18 19
Steel Roofing & Siding s from Normal Maintenance and Care of for your Steel Roofing & Siding s from A. In most areas, normal rainfall is sufficient to keep the metal surface clean. Where an unusual amount of dirt or debris (such as needles, leaves, or pollen) are deposited on the surface, a simple cleaning procedure should be scheduled annually, or more often, if conditions demand. The use of ordinary non-abrasive household detergent is recommended. B. For severe conditions, use the following solution: 1 gallon water 2/3 cup trisodium phosphate 1/3 cup ordinary non-abrasive liquid household detergent. CAUTION: Stronger concentrations of cleaners can cause damage to the finish. Rinse the surface with clear water immediately after cleaning. Avoid skin contact or getting the solution in the eyes. Always wash the metal from the bottom to top, and keep rinsing thoroughly with fresh water while cleaning. C. In some areas, mildew may be a problem. It appears as black spots on the surface dirt, and is usually detected in areas not subjected to rainfall. For removal, prepare a solution as follows: 1 gallon water 2/3 cup trisodium phosphate 1 quart 5% sodium hypoclorite (laundry bleach) 1/3 cup ordinary non-abrasive liquid household detergent CAUTION: Greater of concentrations of these ingredients may cause damage to the finish. Always test any cleaner on an inconspicuous area before application to major areas. Excessive rubbing may result in an undesirable glossy finish.
Steel Roofing & Siding s from SUGGESTED TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT Steel Roofing & Siding s from Roof Plan Showing Typical Flashing Locations Safety Glasses: Always wear approved safety glasses or other eye protection. Tape Measure: We recommend that the installer have two fifty foot tape measures on hand String Line: Required for proper measurements and alignment Chalk Lines: Used to mark for alignment, trimming, and field bending of panels and flashings Marking Tools: Indelible markers, pencils, or scratch awls Screw Gun: Clutch type screw gun allowing for variable torque settings, with depth locating nose piece is recommended to insure proper installation of the screws. The following bits will be needed: º 1/4 Hex driver bit º #2 Phillips screw driver bit Snips: Three pairs of compound snips will be needed, for left edge, right edge, and centerline cuts. Electric Shears: Electric shears can be used for general cutting of hips and valleys. does not recommend the use of circular power saws for cutting panels and flashings. Caulking Gun: For caulking and sealing to inhibit water infiltration. Locking Pliers: Both standard and Duckbill style for miscellaneous clamping and bending of parts. Ridge Prow Transition W-Valley W-Valley sidewall Skylight sidewall Ridge Skylight W-Valley Transition Ridge Pop-Rivet Tool: Used for miscellaneous flashing and trim applications. sidewall W-Valley endwall Chimney Backpan Transition 2 3
Steel Roofing & Siding s from Squaring Your Roof Steel Roofing & Siding s from Final Termination Detail Ridgeline Chalkline Ridgeline Chalkline 5 3 4 5 3 4 The easiest way to square up your roof is to use the 3-4-5 triangle. This size triangle works in smaller areas. In larger areas, use multiples of 3-4-5 (6-8-10 or 9-12-15) to increase the size of the triangle, in order to square up longer panels. Always square up from the eave. #1 Mark panel at roof edge Mark panel over from roof edge #2 Snap chalk line at roof edge marks Snap chalk line at marks 1. Measure in from the gable 1 to 3 inches along the eave, and mark. 2. Measure along the eave 4 feet past your first mark and mark again. 3. From your first mark, measure 3 feet up the roof, and make a third mark. 4. Measure from the 2nd mark to the 3rd mark. 5. This measurement should be 5 feet. If it is not, adjust the three foot side until this measurement equals 5 feet. 6. Once you have established your 3-4-5 triangle, snap a chalk line up the roof of the 3 foot side of the triangle. 7. This chalk line is your square line to start installing your panels. As you install your panels, you can use this same method to double check your work. 4 #3 Roof edge chalk line Cut panel at over chalk line #4 Bend panel up at roof edge line In the event that your last panel in a run does not end exactly at the edge of the roof, follow these steps to properly terminate the final panel. 1. Before installing the last panel, measure the distance from the 2 nd to last panel to the roof edge. 2. Mark the last panel at the top and bottom at the measurement from step #1. 3. Snap a chalk line from top to bottom where the marks were made. 4. Now measure over on the panel, mark at the top and bottom, and snap a line. 5. Cut the panel to the width of the second line. 6. Using metal benders, bend the panel up 90 at the 1st line. 7. Install panel, and cover false rib with flashing 5
Steel Roofing & Siding s from Steel Roofing & Siding s from Detail @ Gutter Transition - Notched Gutter Metal Nail or Screw Gutter 1 Closed hem Specific 7 8 Specific Standard Detail Shed Ridge - Vented Standard Nail or Screw 1-2 Specific Foam Closure 1 5-1/2 Specific 1/2 6 7
Steel Roofing & Siding s from Steel Roofing & Siding s from Valley Detail - Standard Prow - Standard Hold s out of Valley minimum of 2 11 1 1 11 Specific 4 8-1/2 Detail - Standard End Wall - Standard Siding Nail (new construction) 1/2Plywood 2 (re-roof application) 3-1/2 4 1/2 1/2 Closed Hem panel 1/2 Plywood Match 8 9
Steel Roofing & Siding s from Steel Roofing & Siding s from Endwall - Notched Sidewall - Standard Siding Nail (new construction) (re-roof application) 3 panel 1/2 Plywood Match Endwall - Vented Ridge Cap - Standard Siding Nail (New Construction) (re-roof application) panel 1/2 Plywood 3 Match Foam Closure 5-1/2 5-1/2 Bend to fit slope 10 11
Steel Roofing & Siding s from Steel Roofing & Siding s from Vented Ridge Cap Backpan - Standard Insect Screen Foam Closure 6 6 1 Bend to match 1 slope Chimney 4 Specific 12 Notched Ridge Cap Insect Screen Shed Ridge - Standard Foam Closure Foam Closure 6 Specific 4 6 6 1-1/2 Bend to fit 1-1/2 slope 1/2 12 13
Steel Roofing & Siding s from Hook Detail Snow Valley Detail Steel Roofing & Siding s from Hook Hold s out of Valley minimum of 8 Nail or Screw 3-3/4 Specific 23 1 1 23 Specific Mark ribs back from end of panel Snow Detail Cut away both ribs leaving panel face exposed 1/2Plywood Using panel bender bend exposed area down 4-1-3/4 Fold exposed area tightly underneath panel 14 15
Steel Roofing & Siding s from Standard Transition Steel Roofing & Siding s from Skylight or Chimney Flashing 7-8 Specific Step 1 - Installation The panels adjacent to the skylight/chimney curb are positioned so that the panels on either side are cut even with the top of the curb. The panels that fall completely within the width of the skylight/chimney are butted against the bottom curb (upend and seal the panels). Notched Transition The side panels will probably need to be notched in order to fit around the curb. When notching these panels, be sure to leave of metal to be bent up along the curb as shown. The upper panels will be installed later. 8 7 Specific 16 17