Sulfate-Free Made Easy

Sulfate-Free Made Easy Rationale and Guide to Formulating Highly Appealing Sulfate-Free Personal Care Formulations Dr. Tony Gough

Content Origins of sulfate free and current market status Options and challenges to formulating away from sulfates Innospec solutions for sulfate-free formulations Iselux as the solution Iselux in cleansing and shampoo bars The next generation in Iselux options

Origins of Sulfate Free and Current Market Status

Why consider eliminating sulfate? Concerns over alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates in personal cleansers started >10 years ago as a small fringe and an internet blog Over the past 4-5 years the ground swell of concern over the use of alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates has expanded significantly The debate for replacing sulfates in personal care products continues to gain momentum globally Market leaders are bringing an ever increasing number of sulfate-free formulas to the mass and professional markets BUT, economics will NEVER be the driver for elimination of sulfates in personal cleansers

R Alkyl Sulfates and Alkyl Ether Sulfates O O S O O - M + Alkyl Sulfate R O O O S n O - O Alkyl Ether Sulfate M + Pros Excellent foaming properties in soft and hard water Relatively inexpensive Excellent detergency Rinse easily Easy to use - Good water solubility - Can be thickened with salt Cons Skin and eye irritants - require irritation mollifying agents Strip the skin and hair - require conditioning agents Lauryl Ether Sulfates contain EO moieties - 1,4 dioxane They are sulfates and these have a negative connotation for a growing number of consumers.

Regional Annual Introductions of Sulfate- Free Personal Cleansing Products 120 100 80 60 40 Latin America Asia EMEA North America 20 0 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011

Sulfate Free Market Growing Global Trend

Consumer Perception of Sulfate-Free Products Milder to skin and hair than ordinary shampoo, body washes, or personal cleansers. Pure - which equates to safer for the consumer. Non Stripping and give gentler cleansing. Natural/Organic more environmentally friendly. Better for sensitive skin. Improves color retention in color treated hair. Better for chemically treated hair. Marketing Claims 279 209 447 Natural Beauty enhancing Ethical & environmental Improved performance Free from unwanted chemicals 302 331

Options and challenges to formulating away from sulfates

Technical Challenges and Options Sulfate-free typical considerations:- More expensive vs Sulfates formulas are therefore more expensive Performance deficiencies vs Sulfates Formulas have higher solids/actives vs Sulfates formulas Formulators compromise performance for sulfate free Current approaches:- Replace with other anionics Increase the levels of secondary surfactants Use combinations of co-surfactants

Formulation Considerations and Challenges INCI name (perception vs chemistry) Feedstock origins (synthetic, animal, plant origins) Perceived purity free of: EO, amides, nitrosamines, 1,4 dioxane, formaldehyde Performance Foaming/lathering Mildness (skin & eyes) Conditioning Aesthetics Viscosity/rheology Clear/opaque Ease of formulation and compounding Cost in the bottle

Most Common Sulfate-Free Surfactants Summary Sheet

Sulfate Free Formulations Thickening Agents & Rheology Modifiers Ingredient Examples Benefits Drawbacks Electrolytes Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride Sodium Sulfate Economical; Easy to use Limited impact on most Sulfate Free Surfactants Fatty Alkanolamides PEG Esters Natural Polymers Synthetic Polymers Cocamide MEA Cocamide MIPA PEG 150 Distearate PEG 120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate Guar Cellulosics Carrageenan Acrylates; Carbomers Acrylate/Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymers Foam stabilizers; Easy to use Efficient; Easy to Use Natural sources; Foam boosters; Yield Efficient; Yield; Particle suspension Inefficient; Irritation EO source; Poor rheology Micro concerns; Grainy, Stringy Rheology Ingredient & ph sensitive; Salt Sensitive Bio-polymers Xanthan Gum Succinoglycan Natural ; Yield; Particulate suspension Difficult to use; Clarity; Ingredient incompatibilities

Sulfate Free what if you want it all? Primary, Highly Foaming, Mild, Free of Inorganic Sulfate, EO Free, Naturally Derived and Thickens With Salt Type Innospec Trade Name Primary Secondary Fits all Criteria? Alkyl ether carboxylates Pureact T-A; WLL Alpha olefin sulfonates Alkyl benzene sulfonates Sulfosuccinates Pureact MD-318 Alkylamphoacetates Betaines Sultaines Acyl isethionates Pureact I Series; SLI Acyl methyl isethionates Iselux Taurates Pureact WS Conc, MS Sarcosinates Pureact SLR APGs Alcohol ethoxylates Sulfoacetates Fatty acid soaps

Innospec s Solutions

Sulfate-Free Anionic Surfactant Solutions Pureact Isethionates I Series: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate SLI: Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate O R O O S O O- M + Primary anionic sulfate-free mild surfactants Pureact I series benefit from the decades old reputation of syndet bars Ideal for syndet/combo beauty bars as well as liquid applications Excellent foaming and luxurious creamy dense lather with elegant after-feel For use in opaque systems, affords unique pearlescent effect Clear systems can be achieved at low usage levels Range of physical forms and activities e.g. powder, paste, noodle Innospec offers a wide array of prototype formulations Our applications team is available to help our customers create stable, high performing liquid systems

Sodium Cocoyl/Lauroyl Isethionate Applications Bar cleansers Syndet bars Main component is SCI, now SLI is also being used Typically contain high level of fatty acid Small level of soap to dilute cost Combo bars First introduced to the market in Lever 2000 Soap is the main component, but formulas vary SCI used to reduce overall irritation and improve feel Liquid cleansers Facial Cleansers Bath and Shower Gels Sulfate free Shampoos

Pureact SNDT-LO Proprietary Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Blend Pureact SNDT-LO is a unique ready-to-use flaked base: Optimised blend of SCI, stearic acid and a specialty polyethylene wax to enhance both processing efficiency and consumer experience Requires appropriate bar processing equipment Combined with soap base to prepare bars or used as is to produce exceptionally mild, high-quality syndet or combo cleansing bars with excellent textures

Sulfate-Free Anionic Surfactant Solutions Pureact Taurates WS Series: Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate MS Series: Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate Primary and secondary sulfate-free foaming agent Broad ph stability: ph 2-10 Perfect for low ph anti-acne washes and alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) cleansers Moderate foaming; high flash foam, large lacy bubbles. Affords transparent formulations Available in a range of activities Palm-free O R N O S O O- Na +

Sulfate-Free Anionic Surfactant Solutions Pureact Sulfosuccinate MD318: Disodium Oleamido MIPA Sulfosuccinate Mild, non-irritating monoester surfactant Exhibits good water solubility Excellent foaming and viscosity building properties Can mollify irritation and enhance foam stability in combination with other anionics e.g. SLES Compatible with cationic conditioners for mild, clear systems Perfect for baby and children s shampoos R O O O O - O S O O- Na + Na +

Sulfate-Free Anionic Surfactant Solutions Pureact Sarcosinate O LSR: Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate R N OH O Similar in performance to our taurate with improved handling Low ph formulations may tend to cloud, proper surfactant selection and ratios is key A sound co-surfactant providing synergy for mildness and overall performance Outstanding mildness to skin

Sulfate-Free Anionic Surfactant Solutions Iselux Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate Key choice as primary surfactant for sulfate-free formulas unique technology to Innospec Dense creamy foam and elegant foam feel Salt thickens with betaine and other amphoterics Makes clear or opaque formulations Mild on the skin Cost effective lower active formulations possible Can be used for sulfate-free hair shampoo bars

Iselux Features and Benefits Feature Structured systems achievable Dense creamy lather Elegant after-feel Ultra mild surfactant Excellent water solubility Sulfate free 1,4-Dioxane free Nitrosamine free Readily biodegradable Derived from renewable resources Formulates like an ether sulfate Broad ph stability Benefit Dramatic formulation flexibility enhanced creativity Creates a luxurious bath / shower experience Ideal for sensitive skin Can be used in clear systems Safe at all use levels Friendly to the environment Formulating flexibility

Why move from SCI to Iselux? SCI SLMI Iselux Replacing a hydrogen with a methyl group has the effect of: - Dramatically increasing the solubility in water - Markedly increasing the hydrolytic stability - Increasing the performance - foam quality, etc.

Iselux is available in flake or liquid form Iselux Flake 80-85% Active Iselux Liquid 32-34% Active Liquid

Iselux - Superior solubility in water SCI Iselux 10% Solutions in water

Iselux - Foam Appearance vs SLES 0.5% SLES Time: 0 Min 0.5% SLES Time: 10 Min 0.5% SLMI Time: 0 Min 0.5% SLMI Time: 10 Min

Iselux vs SLES - Ross Miles Foam Height Deionised Water Hard Water Foam Height / mm 200 180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0 0 10 30 Time / Mins Iselux SLES 1% Surfactant, Temp 40 0 C Ca 2+ 100ppm, Mg 2+ 20ppm

Iselux vs SLES Foam Density Iselux SLES Blender Foam, 10xMagnification, 50ppm Hardness

Iselux - Skin Irritation 14 Day Cumulative Skin Irritation, 0.50% Active Mean Cumulative Score 35 Mean Irritancy Score 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 Distilled SLS SLES-2 CAPB SLAA SCI Iselux SLES-2/ Iselux / SLAA (1:1) SLAA (1:1) Water Test Material

Iselux - Biodegradability Biodegradation Profile* - Modified Sturm Test 100 80 % Degradation 60 40 20 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 Day of Study *Courtesy of the Huntsman Chemical Co.

Iselux - Outstanding stability over a broad ph range 11 % Active @ 120 F 10 9 ph 4.5 ph 5.5 ph 6.5 ph 7.5 ph 8.5 ph 9.5 8 Day 0 Day 6 Day 13 Day 22 Day 30

Iselux - Thickening with Sodium Chloride 16000 Typical Viscosity Profile ph 5.5 / 25ºC Viscosity cps 14000 12000 10000 8000 6000 4000 2000 0 10% Active Iselux + 3% Active CAPB 10% Active Iselux 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1 1.2 1.4 1.6 1.8 2 2.2 2.4 2.6 2.8 3 % NaCl

Cleansing and Shampoo Bars Featuring Iselux

A solid shampoo...really?! Think for a moment about a bottle of shampoo, what s involved? Plastic bottle/packaging Water Physical volume of product What if you could concentrate this down? Solid bar Each 55g bar is equivalent to three 200ml plastic bottles of shampoo - Lush

Existing commercial products Based on sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) in noodle form Harsh, irritant surfactant Typical INCI list: sodium lauryl sulfate, propylene glycol, polyquaternium-7, glycerin, fragrance, disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate, panthenol, lavandula angustifolia (lavender) oil, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil, CI 28440, CI 42090 Bars sell for 6-12 per 100g! Typical bar weight 50-100g

Iselux cleansing bars Innospec developed bar using Iselux Patented technology Milder than SLS Excellent flash foam versus Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) Cold process. Does not require soap-making equipment Typical ingredient cost 0.48 / 0.58 / $0.76 per 100g Versus retail of 6-12 / 7-14 / $9-18 per 100g Formulation can be adapted for bodywash or shave bar Bars last well especially if kept dry between washes

35 14 Day Cumulative Skin Irritation 0.50% Active Mean Cumulative Score 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 SLS SLES-2 CAPB Iselux SCI SMCT SLAA SLES-2/ SLAA (1:1) SLMI/ SLAA (1:1) Dist. Water

How to use the bars Either wet hair and rub a dry bar three times round head then lather through hair Alternatively wet the bar, rub around in hands like a bar of soap and work the foam into hair Allow bar to dry and return to tin or dry place

Iselux cleansing bar advantages Excellent foaming: Please request a sample and try it you ll be amazed! Mild system No preservative necessary No water in the product No packaging Perfect for travelling

The next generation in Iselux options

Now the next generation in the Iselux family Iselux SFS an optimised/balanced sulfate-free surfactant concentrate that easily dilutes to produce elegant, high performing shampoos or skin cleansers INCI Name: Water, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (and) Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate. Iselux SLB a structured liquid concentrate that can hold 10% or more of a desirable oil or other incompatible additive and deliver outstanding lather and skin moisturisation INCI Name: Water, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Iselux SFS Formulated, Sulfate Free Concentrate Economical Derived From Natural, Renewable Resources Readily Bio-Degradable Dilutes Readily in RT Water to Yield Crystal Clear, Formulated Cleanser Systems Builds Viscosity With Salt Additions Excellent Foaming Properties Dense, Creamy Lather

Iselux SFS An optimized surfactant base with outstanding performance when diluted to typical ether sulfate based formulation solids levels Easy to formulate; simply dilute with water, add performance additives as desired and adjust viscosity with salt or other electrolyte Simplifies the entire manufacturing process; from receipt of raw materials through to compounding

Iselux SFS Requires no process heat (cold mix) Saves time and money Reduces energy consumption Compatible with performance additives: Conditioning agents Pearlisers Label claim benefit additives Final product will yield outstanding lather, is ultra-mild and can be crystal clear

ISELUX SFS Effect of Sodium Chloride on Thickening 14000 Typical Viscosity Profile ph 5.5 / 25ºC Viscosity cps 12000 10000 8000 6000 4000 2000 0 35% 30% 0 0.25 0.5 0.75 1 1.25 1.5 1.75 2 2.25 % NaCl

Iselux SLB (Structured Liquid Blend concentrate) Structured liquids are a unique physical state capable of suspending immiscible performance additives Incorporation of incompatible materials is made possible Enhanced consumer appeal Exciting visual effects are achievable

Iselux SLB (Structured Liquid Blend concentrate) Easy an to use, optimized blend which yields structured liquid formulations when diluted with water Takes the complexity out of manufacturing stable structured liquids Simple, cost effective cold mix process Our technical team will provide formulation support as needed Patent pending technology

Both Iselux SFS and Iselux SLB: Are comprised of surfactants derived from renewable resources and readily biodegradable Are free of EO, 1,4 Dioxane, nitrosamines and formaldehyde Are cost effective in the bottle as a result of both the initial cost of the product and the simplicity of production Will provide the consumer with a use experience hitherto unavailable in a sulfate free products

Sulfate Free Summary Sulfate free personal cleansing products continue to be a growing, global trend in the industry Formulating high performance, cost effective sulfate free products is a challenge to even the most skilled formulators Iselux is fast becoming the choice ingredient to replace sulfates driven by outstanding performance Our applications team is available to help our customers create stable, high performing sulfate free cleansers

Featured prototype samples available on the Innospec stand M39 Formulation Clearly kind handwash Featuring Iselux, Pureact WS Conc, Finsolv SLB-210, Finsolv EMG-20 Luscious lather bodywash Iselux, PureactWS Conc, Activsoft C- 17, Activsoft S, Aminol CM, Finsolv TN Dream cream body butter Luxury Iselux SFS shampoo Everyday Iselux SFS shampoo Satin feel water resistant SPF 50+ sunscreen Cava lava bodywash Zesty sorbet scrub Quick fix lotion stick Hair, there and everywhere shampoo bar Indulgent conditioner bar SNDT LO bar Finsolv EMG-20, Activemol DOM-R Iselux SFS Iselux SFS Finsolv EB, Sensymer E Activsoft MS100 Iselux, Finsolv EMG-20, Finsolv SLB- 201 Finsolv PG-22 Iselux, Pureact WS Conc, Condicare PQ7 Iselux, Condicare SD, Finsolv SLB- 101 Proprietary SCI blend

Thank you for listening Any questions? Please visit us on stand M39!