Beyond Conditioning Fast Drying Hair Care Products with SilSense Silicones

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1 TECHNICAL DATA SHEET Beyond Conditioning Fast Drying Hair Care Products with SilSense Silicones TDS-333 Edition: September 9, 2008 Previous Edition: June, 2005 Introduction The wide-ranging benefits of silicones in hair care have long been known. Since the 1950 s, silicones have been used in a broad array of conditioning products where they add beneficial effects like improved combing, softer feel, enhanced shine and the perception of repair for damaged hair. More recently, water-soluble silicones and cationic silicones have been developed to offer new formulating possibilities. SilSense cationic silicones, such as SilSense Q-Plus silicone (Silicone Quaternium-8) and SilSense A-21 silicone (PEG-7 Amodimethicone) combine the best properties of these silicones product types. They are water dispersible to soluble, allowing for their easy incorporation into clear products. Their cationic functionality enhances deposition onto the hair, and allows for excellent wet and dry combing properties, along with shine, softness and static control. New developments show that these silicones can also be used to reduce the time needed to dry wet hair, a property that creates consumer-perceptible benefits. Background The potential for hair damage is all around. Environmental factors, chemical treatments, heated appliances, and even the frictional forces of combing and styling can take their toll, leading to hair that is dry, dull and brittle. Proper conditioning can protect hair from further damage and help to maintain a more healthy appearance. But selecting a conditioning ingredient can be daunting, with hundreds from which to choose. Cationic ingredients, such as quaternary compounds and polyquaterniums, are the industry standard for hair conditioning products. They are well known, relatively inexpensive and effective in improving combability and decreasing static. But quats can be irritating and hard to formulate, and polyquaternium compounds may build up over time, leaving hair limp and lifeless. Silicone fluids are also used as conditioning aids, but when used alone can be difficult to formulate and lack substantivity to the hair. Silicone emulsions are often easier to formulate, but their surfactant content may pose problems for the formulator. SilSense cationic silicones provide the benefits of quats, polyquats and dimethicone without the drawbacks. Their unique solubility profiles make SilSense cationic silicones easy to incorporate into shampoos, conditioners and styling products. They feature excellent mildness as well as compatibility with the anionic surfactants normally used in shampoo formulations. Unlike silicone fluid (dimethicone), they can be used in aqueous systems without the need for elaborate stabilization systems. Cationic silicones are also substantive to keratinaceous substrates due to their positive charge. Unlike silicone emulsions, SilSense cationic silicones are 100% active, and do not contain surfactants that can interact with other formulation ingredients. Beyond their ease of use, SilSense cationic silicones are excellent conditioning agents, comparing favorably to many common cationic conditioners. Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. / 9911 Brecksville Road, Cleveland, Ohio / TEL: or The information contained herein is being furnished for informational purposes only, upon the express condition that the User makes its own assessment of the appropriate use of such information. While the information contained herein is believed to be reliable, no representations, guarantees or warranties of any kind are made as to its accuracy, suitability for a particular application or the results to be obtained herefrom. Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. ("Lubrizol") cannot guarantee how any products associated with this information will perform in Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. is a wholly owned subsidiary of The Lubrizol Corporation All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation Copyright 2012 / The Lubrizol Corporation combination with other substances or in the User s process. Due to variations in methods, conditions and equipment used commercially in processing these materials, no warranties or guarantees are made as to the suitability of the information or products for the applications disclosed. Lubrizol shall not be liable and the User assumes all risk and responsibility for any use or handling of any material beyond Lubrizol's direct control. LUBRIZOL MAKES NO WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, For further information, please visit: THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. It is the User s sole responsibility to determine if there are any issues relating to patent infringement of any component or combination of components relating to the supplied information. Nothing contained herein is to be considered as permission, recommendation, nor as an inducement to practice any patented invention without permission of the patent owner.

2 Page 2 of 6 Conditioning Efficacy Wet combability is an important aspect of conditioning; the consumer expects hair to comb easily and smoothly after washing. Improved wet combability is imparted when the conditioning ingredient effectively reduces the work needed to comb through wet hair. This reduction in work also lowers the likelihood of damage from the mechanical forces of combing and styling. Wet comb-through is defined as the total work required to pull the wet hair completely through a comb five times, as measured by a tensiometer. An untreated control tress is tested, and the work needed to comb this tress is normalized to 100. Treated tresses are measured versus this control. As shown in the results depicted (below) SilSense Q-Plus silicone is an exceptionally effective conditioner, outperforming a wide range of cationic materials commonly used in hair care products. Efficiency of Cationic Conditioners Conditioned tresses are measured relative to the controls. The graph illustrates wet combability as a percentage of the work needed to comb through the untreated tress. The lower the number, the greater the reduction in combing work, hence the more effective the conditioner. another dimension is added when a conditioning ingredients not only performs, but offers the possibility of protection from thermal damage as well. Consider the damaging effects of drying the hair; applying heat and mechanical forces only stress the hair further. If you can reduce the dry time you can help to minimize the potential damage caused by blow dryers and styling. In salon testing, SilSense cationic silicones were found to reduce the time needed to dry wet hair in addition to improving wet combability. A test method was developed to evaluate the speed of drying of tresses using a hand-held blow dryer. In this test, an untreated hair tress is weighed. Hair tresses are treated with the conditioning agent (1 wt% in DI water at ph 5), rinsed and combed. Weight measurements are taken to determine water remaining on the hair. Hair is dried using a blow dryer and repeated weight measurements are taken every 10 seconds. Time needed to achieve 95% dry (t 95 ) is determined when the weight of the tress indicates that only 5% of the water remains on the hair. The end point of the testing was chosen as 95% dry because this is a level of remaining moisture which would be viewed as essentially dry by the consumer. Photos below show hair tresses at different stages of drying. Tress Studies: Assessment of Drying In the photo on the left, a tress at 50% dry (t 50) is shown in between a wet tress and a fully dried tress. The 50% dry tress is still visibly wet and would not be considered to be adequately dried by the consumer. Beyond Conditioning A good conditioner will be multi-functional, improving performance of many of the parameters which the consumer equates with healthy hair. But In the photo on the right, a tress at 95% dry (t 95) is shown in between a wet tress and a fully dried tress. The 95% dry tress cannot be visually distinguished from the fully dried tress. At this point, the consumer would consider hair to be adequately dried. As such, t 95 was chosen as the stopping point of the drying tests.

3 Page 3 of 6 Laboratory testing confirmed that tresses treated with SilSense Q-Plus silicone dried markedly faster than an untreated tress. In contrast, tresses treated with traditional cationics dried more slowly than the untreated tress. Drying Time: Evaluation of Cationic Conditioners Results expressed as seconds to achieve 95% dry. Only SilSense Q-Plus silicone reduced dry time versus the control. All other ingredients display slower dry times than the control. Dry Time Versus Amodimethicone Amodimethicone is frequently promoted as a drying aid in shampoo and conditioners. The impact of amodimethicone on dry time was therefore evaluated. While the initial phase of the drying process proceeds more rapidly with the addition of amodimethicone, the overall dry time (to 95% dry) was not reduced using this additive. This can be seen in the data series representing amodimethicone in the graph immediately below. Percentage Change in Dry Time In this graph, results are expressed as percent change from the control at t 95. Positive numbers indicate that the tresses dried faster than the control, negative numbers indicate that the conditioning ingredient slowed dry time relative to the control. This series, seen on the far left of the graph, shows the initial phase of the drying proceeding faster, but t95 is not reduced with this ingredient. The best results were with SilSense Q-Plus silicone, a silicone quaternary compound. SilSense Q-Plus silicone is more effective at reducing dry time than amodimethicone, which actually increased t 95 versus the control.

4 Page 4 of 6 Formulation Testing While testing of the ingredients for their impact on drying time provided valuable information, the true test of the concept is in formulations: unless a finished product can decrease the dry time substantially, the fact that an ingredient used alone can do so is not meaningful. The same test method used to evaluated ingredients was used on rinse-out conditioners. A commercial product which did not contain cationic silicones was evaluated and compared to a formulation containing SilSense Q-Plus silicone. Testing of finished formulations showed that tresses treated with products that included the cationic silicones dried faster than those treated with commercially available conditioners and control tresses (no conditioner). Drying Time: Evaluation of Formulated Conditioners t 95 expressed as total seconds. The commercial conditioner dried more slowly than the unconditioned tress; the test formulation dried faster. The conditioner containing SilSense Q-Plus silicone dried markedly faster than the commercial conditioner; dry time was reduced by over 40 seconds (more than 30%) versus the commercial product. However, the formulations of the two conditioners are very different in their composition. The commercial product was a traditional crème rinse formulation and the test formulation was a Carbopol polymer based gel conditioner which did not contain fatty alcohol or the cellulosic polymers often used to thicken crème rinses. Conditioners Tested: Ingredient Listings Commercial Product Water Cetearyl Alcohol Dimethiconol/TEA Dodecylbenzenesulfonate Hydroxyethylcellulose Cetrimonium Chloride Panthenol Fragrance/Preservative Test Product Water Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Cetrimonium Chloride Ammonium Dimethicone PEG-7 Sulfate Silicone Quaternium-8 Preservative, Colorants, UV Inhibitor LipoCapsules (Dimethicone) Drying Time: Evaluation of Formulated Conditioners In this chart, drying time is expressed as percent change, either faster or slower, than the control.. In order to determine if the differences in dry time were due simply to the overall makeup of the conditioner, a further test was run. In this test, the same commercial conditioner was used. The silicone cationic, SilSense Q-Plus silicone, was post-added (at 1.5 wt%) to the commercial product and dry time was again evaluated. Results are shown as drying curves and as t 95.

5 Page 5 of 6 The drying curve illustrates the behavior of the commercial conditioner, alone and with 1.5 wt% SilSense Q-Plus silicone added. The increased steepness of the curve indicates that the rate of drying with the Q-Plus is faster, and the tress reaches 95% dry in substantially less time (approx. 27 seconds, or 19% faster). Photos show hair which has airdried for 90 minutes. Front view shows obvious differences between commercial conditioner (right) and the Test Product (left) formulation after air drying for 90 minutes. Side views show visible moisture remaining on the half-head treated with the commercial conditioner (lower right). The half-head treated with the Test Product formulation (lower left) is considerably drier after equal time of air drying. Dramatic results are seen when SilSense Q-Plus silicone is added to a commercial conditioning product. Dry time is greatly reduced by 1.5 wt% addition of SilSense Q-Plus silicone to the product. Half-Head Tests Half-head tests further illustrate the decrease in dry time. Half-heads shown in the following pictures were dried for an equal amount of time. The difference in degree of drying is visually obvious and would be a consumer-perceptible benefit. In salon settings, this decrease in dry time can translate into increased revenue, as more patrons can be styled in the same amount of time. Photos show hair which has airdried for equal amounts of time on both the left and right sides. Front view shows obvious differences between commercial conditioner (right) and the Test Product (left) formulation after blow drying for equal time on both sides. Side view shows visible moisture remaining on the halfhead treated with the commercial conditioner (lower right). The half-head treated with the Test Product formulation (lower left) is considerably drier after equal time of blow drying.

6 Page 6 of 6 Conclusion Formulating hair care products such as shampoos and conditioners with SilSense Q-Plus silicone can help bring multiple performance benefits to your formulations. Improvements in wet combability indicate that the silicone is an effective conditioner, outperforming many traditional cationic conditioning agents. Add to this the substantial decrease in time needed to dry hair that is observed with SilSense Q-Plus silicone, and the possibility to protect hair from damaging heat and stress of blow drying emerges. Go beyond conditioning with SilSense silicones. Additional Information Toxicological Data Toxicological profiles of SilSense cationic silicones are available upon request. Please contact your sales representative. Microbiology SilSense cationic silicones have passed Mixed Inoculum Preservatives Efficacy Testing (Challenge Testing). Microbiological specifications are available upon request. Genetically Modified Organisms (GMO) SilSense cationic silicones are not derived from any material of animal origin. TSE-GMO Statements are available upon request. For additional information, product specifications, technical data sheets or formulations, please visit