AMILITE GCS-12K. Facial Wash Formulation. AJINOMOTO AminoScience Laboratories

Transcription

1 AMILITE GCS-12K Facial Wash Formulation -1

2 Purpose to understand the benefits of GCS-12K for facial wash formulation to understand features of the guide formulations -2

3 AMILITE GCS-12K Outline Basic function Benefits for facial wash formulation Guide formulation -3

4 AMILITE GCS-12K Basic function Benefits for facial wash formulation Guide formulation -4

5 The Basis of Acylamino Acid -1 Glycine is the main constituent amino acid of human collagen. AsparticAcid 5% Serine 4% Arginine 5% GlutamicAcid 8% others 12% 12% Glycine 32% Hydroxvproline 9% Alanine Proline 13% Constituent Amino Acids of human collagen [J.E.Eastoe, Treatise on collagen. Vol.1,p52] -5

6 The Basis of Acylamino Acid -2 Chemical structure of acylamino acid AMILITE G series AMILITE A series H 3 C-(CH 2 )ncoo- NH H 3 C-(CH 2 )ncoo- NH AMISOFT H 3 C-(CH 2 )ncoo- NH H C COO - M + H H C COO - M + CH 3 H C COO - M + Glycine Alanine CH 2 CH 2 COO - M + Glutamic acid -6

7 Sensory Map of Acylamino Acid Character change depending on the kind of aminoacid <detergent sensory map> AMISOFT Moisturising acidic AMILITE A series AMILITE G series alkali AMISOFT : Acyl glutamate G series : Acyl glycinate A series : Acyl alaninate Clarifying Soap -7

8 AMILITE GCS-12K Basic function Benefits for facial wash formulation Guide formulation -8

9 Benefits of AMILITE GCS-12K for Facial Wash Formulation Produces good, creamy and resilient foam under the neutral ph conditions Imparts very pleasant fresh feel on the skin Composes various type of formulation -9

10 Performance of AMILITE GCS-12K Good foaming power Foam Volume (ml) After 1min. After 5min. 0 AMILITE GCS-12K Sodium Laurate Mixer method Temperature:35 Concentration:1.0%A.I. ph:not adjusted Sodium Laureth Sulfate Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Cocamidopropyl Betaine TS Data:

11 Performance of AMILITE GCS-12K Method of Wash and Recovery Test Procedure Wash with 750mL of surfactant solution P. Soap 10% active, ph 8.3 Q. GCS 10% active, ph 8.3 Rinsed with tap water (100ml) Repeated 6 times every 10 min. Swabbed with a tissue paper Initial 30 minutes later, the skin capacitance was measured Test measure wash wash wash measure measure measure -11

12 Performance of AMILITE GCS-12K Result of Wash and Recovery Test AMILITE GCS does not cause dry skin after heavy wash P= P= P=0.001 * * * Skin capacitance / Initial Time (min.) * Q GCS P Soap p: probability by the T-TEST that shows the means of two groups are statistically equal. TS Data:

13 Performance of AMILITE GCS-12K Phase Changes around ph7 Temperature[ ] deposition 5 wt% (A.I.) dissolution deposition dissolution ph not controlled ph Concentration [wt%] TSData:

14 Benefits of AMILITE GCS-12K for Facial Wash Formulation Produces good, creamy and resilient foam under the neutral ph conditions Imparts a very pleasant fresh feel on the skin Composes various type of formulation Suitable for facial wash formulation -14

15 AMILITE GCS-12K Basic function Benefits for facial wash formulation Guide formulation -15

16 Trend of Formulation Type Needs and Type of Formulation Expand Bar soap Pump foamer Creamy Facial cleanser Clear gel Liquid powder Do you know how to use cream-type Facial cleanser?? -16

17 How to Use Cream-Type Facial Wash Take cream Add water Make foam 4 5 Wash face Rinse off -17

18 What is Cream-Type Facial Wash? <Cream Type Cleansing> <Mixed Phase> Mixture of Solid (Crystal) and Liquid High Crystallinity is Required -18

19 Guide Formulation Formulation No FC-109H Crystallization NDT-11S NCF-279 Thickening REL-91 SKPEG-112 Foam Volume Good Good Excellent Good Excellent AMILITE (Active) Total surfactant (Active.) ph Characteristic Features (1% 6.9 (1%) ) Luxurous, attractive appearance Excellent foam (1%) Cost performance Easy to preparation -19

20 Guide Formulation Facial Wash ~Crystallization Type FC-109H Easy preparation without the tough dissolution process at high temperature Good stability NDT-11S Excellent stability and good foam Pleasant moisturizing feel due to the high amount of emollient oil NCF-279 Excellent balance of foamability, skinfeel and stability Process is reasonably simple Good cost performance -20

21 Facial Wash<Cream> TS Formulation No.FC-109H Easy preparation without tough dissolution process Good stability and foamability AMILITE GCS-12K WATER GLYCERIN SODIUM LAUROAMPHOACETATE (30%) POLYQUATERNIUM-39 (10%) DISODIUM EDTA CITRIC ACID PRESERVATIVE HYDROXYPROPYL METYLCELLULOSE ph(1%):6.9 Stability :0, 25, balance q.s Point: Glycerin as poor solvent, Combined use of surfactants Cleansing surfactant Solvent, viscosity modifier Co-surfactant Foam booster Sequestrant ph modifier Viscosity modifier Stable for 1 month -21

22 Facial Wash <Cream> TS Formulation No.NDT-11S Good stability and good foam Pleasant moisturizing feel due to emollient oil. WATER AMILITE GCS-12K(30%) SODIUM LAUROAMPHOACETATE(30%) LAURAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE(30%) GLYCERIN PRESERVATIVE PETROLATUM LAURIC ACID HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE ACRYLATES COPOLYMER Balance q.s Cleansing surfactant Co-surfactant Co-surfactant Moisturizer Emollient ph (1%):6.9 Stability :-5, 0, 25, 40, 45 o C, Cycle, for 1 month Foam booster Thickening polymer Viscosity modifier Point: combined use of surfactants for stability and foamability, -22

23 Facial Wash <Cream> TS Formulation No.NCF-279 Good balance of foamability, skin feel and stability Process is simple Good cost performance AMILITE GCS-12K (30%) LAURAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE (30%) SODIUM LAUROAMPHOACETATE (30%) GLYCERYL CAPRATE GLYCERIN PEG-14M (5%aq.) PRESERVATIVE WATER HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE CITRIC ACID (20%aq.) ph (1%):6.4 Stability :-5, 0, 25, 40, 45 o C, Cycle, for 1 month q.s. Balance Cleansing surfactant Co-surfactant Co-surfactant Foam booster Solvent, viscosity modifier Thickening polymer Thickening polymer ph modifier Point: combined use of surfactants for stability and foamability,and poor solvent -23

24 Crystallization Process of Facial Wash Cream 1. > crystallizing point 2. At crystallizing point cool Surfactant solution 3. At crystallizing point Crystals deposit Saturated surfactant solution 4. < crystallizing point cool cool Crystals increase Saturated surfactant solution Crystal saturates Saturated surfactant solution -24

25 Strategy of Preparing Crystallization Type Facial Wash Theory Surfactant crystal makes cream stable. Strategy To make stable crystal by solubility control of surfactant Crystal Saturated surfactant solution Use polyol (as poor solvent) Surfactant / water / polyol ratio Tuning of ph value Crystallization type Key Point! -25

26 Effect of ph and Polyol on Foambility and Crytallization High 1 Foam Volume Poor 3 GOOD Low Crystallinity 2 Good Rich Polyol Low Acidic ph Alkaline -26

27 Understanding Cream Type Facial Wash Effect of ph on Foamability and Appearance > A M ILIT E G C S -12K C itric acid G lycerin W ater ph (1%) C rystallizing tem p A ppearance Liquid S m ooth C ream H ard Foam properties R ough B ouncy P oor volum e Excellent foam, Suitable for facial wash TS Data:

28 Guide Formulation Formulation No FC-109H Crystallization NDT-11S NCF-279 Thickening REL-91 SKPEG-112 Foam Volume Good Good Excellent Good Excellent AMILITE (Active) Total surfactant (Active.) ph Characteristic (1% 6.9 (1%) ) Luxurous, attractive appearance Excellent foam (1%) Cost performance Easy to preparation -28

29 Guide Formulation Facial Wash ~Thickening Type TS formulation No.REL-91<Cream-type> Low active surfactant concentration. Cold process is possible. TS formulation No.SKPEG-112 <SLES/LAPB type> Creamy foam SLES/LAPB type Vacuum system is NOT needed. -29

30 Facial Wash <Cream> TS Formulation No.REL-91 Low active surfactant concentration. Cold process is possible. AMILITE GCS-12K (30%) AMIHOPE LL TITANIUM DIOXIDE PRESERVATIVE GLYCERIN POLYQUATERNIUM-39 PEG-14M (5%aq.) COCO-BETAINE (30%) AJIDEW NL-50 SODIUM CHLORIDE (10%aq.) ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (4.5%aq.) ph (1%):6.9 Stability :-5, 0, 25, 40, 45 o C, Cycle, for 1 month q.s Cleansing surfactant Sensory improver Opacifier Moisturizer Moisturizer Thickening polymer Co-surfactant Viscosity modifier Viscosity modifier Thickening polymer Point: combined use of surfactants and NL-50 Thickening polymer, opacifier -30

31 Facial Wash <Cream> TS Formulation No.SKPEG-112 Creamy foam Vacuum system is NOT needed. AMILITE GCS-12K(30%) SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE(27%) LAURAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE(30%) DISODIUM LAURETH SULFOSUCCINATE(32%) BUTYLENE GLYCOL WATER PRESERVATIVE POLYQUATERNIUM-7(10%) ALUMINUM MAGNESIUM SILICATE TITANIUM DIOXIDE CITRIC ACID (20%aq.) ph (1%):5.7 Stability :-5, 25, 50, Cycle Stable for 1 month balance q.s Point: combined use of surfactants Thickening agent, opacifier Cleansing surfactant Cleansing surfactant Co-surfactant Co-surfactant Solubilizer Foam improver Viscosity modifier Opacifier ph modifier -31

32 Preparation Process of Thickening Type 1 2 Filler Opacifier Pearlizer Filler, Opacifier Surfactant solution Surfactant solution 3 Polymer Salt ph modifier Thickening polymer/ Surfactant aggregate -32

33 Strategy of Preparing Thickening Type Facial Wash Theory Polymer and surfactant aggregates make cream stable. Strategy Combined using of high soluble surfactants, salt, ph modifier, polymer, and other thickening agent. NOT to make crystal of surfactant. Solution To use high soluble surfactant, SLES, CAPB Add salt such as NaCl, MgCl2, PCA-Na Modify ph value To use polymer for stabilizing -33

34 AMILITE GCS-12K Summary Suitable for the cream-type facial wash. Produces good, creamy and resilient foam under the neutral conditions Imparts a pleasant fresh feel on the skin Various-type facial wash with good stability can be prepared with AMILITE GCS-12K -34

35 Thank you -35

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