Direct accelerated stability tests for cosmetic products by an innovative technology Arnold Uhl, LUM GmbH, Berlin, Germany In-cosmetics 2012 1. Introduction 2. STEP-Technology 3. Applications 4. Summary 2012 LUM GmbH 1
LUM GmbH Founded by Prof. Dr. Lerche in 1994. Located in Berlin-Adlershof, Germany, Europe s most modern technology park. Stability Analyzer LUMiFuge 1998. Dispersion Analyzer LUMiSizer introduced in the end of 2004. US subsidiary LUM Corporation started operations in January 2005. Global LUM network covers >40 countries. Several hundreds of instruments sold for emulsion and dispersion characterization. Regular International User Meetings and information platform www.dispersion-letters.com. The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 2
The NEXT STEP in Dispersion Analysis Demixing Tester LUMiCheck Separation Analyser LUMiReader Stability Analyser LUMiFuge Dispersion Analyser LUMiSizer BFBS* Real-time demixing at gravity Stability, Coalescence, Flocculation *Bottom focussed backscattering PSA STEP-Technology Technology Direct and Accelerated Stability, Shelf life, Flocculation Consolidation, Compressibility PSA The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 3
Dispersions are beautiful and complex. Sedimentation G Flocculation Creaming G Coagulation D [G] G = Gravity driven D = Diffusion driven Ostwald ripening D Phase Inversion D Coalescence D [G] The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 4
Why measure cosmetic products accelerated? Typical shelf life: Face cream 6 months http://www.joseibi.com/shelf-life-of-your-beauty-products/ (22.2.2012) Moisturizer and skin care (day cream, night cream) 1-2 years http://www.buzzle.com/articles/makeup-expiration-dates-shelflife-of-makeup.html (22.2.2012) Sun cream 2-3 years http://www.nhs.uk/chq/pages/1970.aspx?categoryid=70&sub CategoryID=169 (22.2.2012) For product development and improvement as well as for quality control fast and reliable information is required. The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 5
Direct accelerated stability tests for cosmetic products by an innovative technology Arnold Uhl, LUM GmbH, Berlin, Germany In-cosmetics 2012 1. Introduction 2. STEP-Technology 3. Applications 4. Summary 2012 LUM GmbH 6
Physical Basics Particle-Migration Driven by Gravitational or Centrifugal Forces Detection by Optical Technique I O d I Stokes Law v = 2 ρ. x 2. f(α). xg 9 η v-velocity x=1 for gravity, x=6-2300 for accelerated tests -ln Lambert-Beer s Law I I O = E = ε. α. d ε = f (λ, r, n,...) NIR - or Blue Light The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 7
STEP: Space and Time resolved Extinction Profiles Concentration at any position at a selected time or at any time at a selected position The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 8
LUMiFuge / LUMiSizer 2300 x faster than sitting on a shelf Light Sample Sensor Transmission kinetics The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 9
Analysis results for QC/QA and R&D Fingerprinting of transmission profiles Instability index Separation kinetics Particle size, separation velocity & density distributions The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 10
LUM Instruments in Home and Personal Care The formulation of a distinctive skin care product R. Moyon, K. Golz, L. Zastrow, SFÖW Journal 4-2007. Integrating of objective assessment methods when formulating distinctive skin care products (patent pending) www.kosmet.com, 14.01.2011. Prediction of Emulsion Stability: Facts and Myths V. André, N. Willenbacher, H. Debus, L. Böger, P. Fernandez, T. Frechen, J. Rieger, Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide, 2003, 102-109. Rapid selection of dispersants and evaluation of emulsion stability by analytical centrifugation T. Sobisch, D. Lerche, La rivista italiana delle sostanze grasse LXXXII, 2005, 308. Accelerated Stability Testing of W/O Creams A. Brämer, R. Daniels, 4th World Meeting on Pharmaceutics, 2002, Florence, IT The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 11
LUM Instruments in Home and Personal Care Where physics and chemistry meet for the best UV protection: absorption and stability of UV-A and UV-B filters V. André, A. Kühnle, N. Willenbacher, T. Wünsch, BASF, Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide 19, 2003, 19-23. Evaluation of long term stability of model emulsions by analytical multisample centrifugation G.G. Badolato, F. Aguilar, H.P. Schuchmann, T. Sobisch, D. Lerche, Prog Colloid Polym Sci 2008 (134), 66-73. Die Stabilisierung öliger Suspensionen S. Kölling, Dissertation, Rheinische Friedrich-Wilhelm-Universität Bonn (Germany), 2007. Direktdampfinjektion Ein Verfahren zur Herstellung halbfester Zubereitungen A. Brämer, Dissertation, Technischge Universität Carolo-Wilhelmina zu Braunschweig (Germany), 2004. The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 12
LUM Instruments in Home and Personal Care Stabilierung öliger Suspensionen enthaltend hydrophobe Kieselsäuren, Patent DE102007055341A1 20.05.2009, Bayer Animal Health GmbH, www.patentde.com (12.10.2009). Determination of the efficiency of Tensoprot as detergent for the stabilization of o/w emulsions Review, www.dispersion-letters.com/determination-of-the-efficiency-of-tensoprot-asdetergent-for-the-stabilization-of-ow-emulsions (17.2.2012). Evaluation of Stability of Model Emulsions by Analytical Centrifugation and Rheology K.-H. Jacob, International Workshop Dispersion Analysis 2012, Berlin, Germany, www.dispersion-letters.com/wpcontent/uploads/2012/02/evaluation_of_stability_of_model_emulsions.pdf (17.2.2012). Predicting the shelf life of Liquid Fabric Softeners P. Vinson, M. Weaver, D. Bohlen, M. Thompson, W. Broeckx Procter & Gamble, International Workshop Dispersion Analysis 2012, Berlin, Germany, www.dispersion-letters.com/wpcontent/uploads/2012/02/predicting_the_shelf_life_of_liquid_fabric_softeners.pdf (17.2.2012). The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 13
LUM Instruments in Home and Personal Care Physical and physicochemical stability aspects of aqueous long acting paliperidone palmitate suspensions Wuxin Zhu, Dissertation, Ghent University. Faculty of Bioscience Engineering, 2011, ISBN 9789059894297 The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 14
Direct accelerated stability tests for cosmetic products by an innovative technology Arnold Uhl, LUM GmbH, Berlin, Germany In-cosmetics 2012 1. Introduction 2. STEP-Technology Technology 3. Applications 4. Summary 2012 LUM GmbH 15
Influence of an additive on the separation stability of a nail varnish after 110 min of accelerated stability analysis at 327 g, 20 C Active component fully sedimented Visual appearance of the nail varnish without additive (left) and with additive (right) The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 16
Fast QC result for additive influence: Instability index after 1000 s Instability mean RCA 278 g Additive stabilizes nail varnish against sedimentation. The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 17
Influence of an additive on the separation of a nail varnish Overlay of transmission fingerprints, 110 min at 327 g, 20 C & 14 h at 327 g, 25 C Polydisperse sedimentation without additive Segregation at storage. Zone sedimentation for varnish with additive No segregation, syneresis possible. Larger separation extent at 25 C but similar separation type. The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 18
R&D: Sedimentation velocity distribution Integral information on particle density and size Stabilizing influence of additive confirmed. The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 19
Facial cream: Storage temperature influence Creaming Storage at 20 C Storage at 45 C Separation type does not change. Larger extent of zone creaming after storage at 45 C displayed. The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 20
Creaming velocity = f (Storage temperature) The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 21
Processing influence on a body cream. Before processing. Measurement 65 h, 2300 x accelerated, 20 C. After processing. Measurement 65 h, 2300 x accelerated, 20 C. Before processing. 16 h measurement, 2300 x accelerated, 45 C. After processing. 16 h measurement, 2300 x accelerated, 45 C. Oil droplet coalescence. Formation of water phase due to creaming. The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 22
Separation kinetics for creaming No creaming detected within 16 h at 20 C. At 45 C body cream after processing is more stable against creaming. The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 23
Direct accelerated stability tests for cosmetic products by an innovative technology Arnold Uhl, LUM GmbH, Berlin, Germany In-cosmetics 2012 1. Introduction 2. STEP-Technology Technology 3. Applications 4. Summary 2012 LUM GmbH 28
The innovative STEP-Technology allows you to Characterize cosmetic products directly in original concentration at temperatures relevant for storage, transport and application. Compare different formulations at different temperatures. See influences of additives, temperature, processing within seconds till hours instead of waiting for months or years. Receive fast information for quality control and comprehensive detailed information for formulation improvement, R&D. Give fast and reliable results for up to 12 samples simultaneously. The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 29
The NEXT STEP in analysis of cosmetic products Stability Analyser LUMiFuge STEP-Technology Technology Dispersion Analyser LUMiSizer Direct and Accelerated Stability Velocity, Particle Size, Density Distributions The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 30
LUM Instruments in Home and Personal Care Thank you for your attention. Questions? You are kindly invited to see us at Stand A19. The Next STEP in Dispersion Analysis www.lum-gmbh.com www.dispersionletters.com 31