SOME TRADITIONAL CHEESE

SOME TRADITIONAL CHEESE PRODUCE IN TURKEY Dr. Şeniz KARABIYIKLI Tokat, 2012

TRADITIONAL FOODS Researches on global marketing, in recent years showed that, the demand for traditional foods is getting increased. 2

WHAT ARE THE REASONS? Chancing of the customers wishes very fast reacting against mass consumption and going back to the original traditions linked foods; wishing products endorsed by tradition and being fearful of the guarantees of what they eat; can be listed as the main reasons of this increasing demand. 3

CHEESE Cheese is a worldwide and important dairy product, contains protein, calcium and vitamin which are necessary for human nutrition. 4

This most popular dairy product with a huge variety, is a kind of cultural inheritance, and also is a sign of civilization of a society. 5

According to the different references, approximately 4000 kinds of cheese have been made all over the world. 6

Fat content and origin of the milk, production method, starter culture, processing of the clot, salt content, fermentation conditions are the main reasons of this enormous variety of cheese. 7

Although, cheese consuming ways are different according to the nutritional habits and traditions; it is generally increasing.! In developed countries, especially at breakfast but also on other meals, more than one type of cheese is consumed. 8

Production, importation and exportation values of milk and cheese for some countries (FAO, 2001). COUNTRY MILK (tones) CHEESE (tones) Production Importation Exportation Production Importation Exportation USA 74.980 980.000 000 12.820 29.200 4.083 083.700 201.768 54.023 Australia 10.872.000 3.138 81.901 376.000 46.615 206.303 Brazil 21.283.000 39.122 1.710 38.500 8.027 2.270 France 25.670.000 953.397 993.921 921 1.769.958 207.430 523.092 Holland 11.291.000 479.800 253.901 641.000 150.339 428.391 England 14.707.000 109.823 148.493 385.000 276.570 67.716 Switzerland 3.962.000 23.138 589 178.020 31.245 53.099 Italy 12.329.361 2.021 021.853 4.636 1.083.611 342.976 177.401 Egypt 4.028.610 3.154 43 484.250 15.656 2.050 Russia 32.909.240 4.055 6.641 435.000 111.968 3.688 Turkey 9.495.550 29 685 124.255 3.716 4.730 Greece 1.942.045 86.210 200 243.558 65.101 53.136 9

TRADITIONAL CHEESE There are lots of cheese known and consumed on all over the world. However, production of various types of different and unknown traditional cheese is still going on, in small scales at different regions, as a family art. 10

There are several traditional cheese produced in Turkey Industrial scale (using spesific starter culture) Traditional scale (spontaneously fermented) 11

EXAMPLE Most known chesses produced in Turkey White pickled cheese (beyaz peynir) Kashar cheese (kaşar peyniri) Tulum cheese (tulum peyniri) 12

WHITE PICKLED CHEESE 13

TECHNOLOGY White pickled cheese can be made from cowi sheep or goat milk or from their combination. Standardized milk pasteurized at 72-74 o C for 15-20 seconds or 68 o C for 10 minutes. Calcium chloride (0.01-0.02%) and lactic starter (S.lactis, S.cremoris 0.5-2.0%) are added after pasteurization. Milk is pre-ripened at 28-32 o C for 20-30 min before rennet addition. Coagulation is completed within 60-90 min after rennet addition. Curd is cut into 2-3 cm cubes and is left to settle for up to 30 min. Then coagulum is ladled into a cheese cloth, this process can be made with direct method and is pressed in bulk of natural draining for two or more hours. Then the pressed curd is cut into pieces of suitable size and is salted in brine (14-20%) for 4-12 hours. The brined cheese is canned and ripened at 8-12 o C for 30-90 days. 14

KASHAR CHEESE 15

TECHNOLOGY Kashar cheese can be made from sheep or cow milk or from their combinations. Generally, standardized and pasteurized milk (72 o C for 15-20 sec) is used but some cheese makers use raw milk for kashar cheese making. When heat treatment is used, calcium chloride and starter are added. Cheese milk can be pre-ripened. The coagulation process is complated within 40-60 min at 32-34 o C. Curd is cut into pices of 1-1.5 cm and is stirred for 10-15 min. Sometimes the curd is scalded to 36-40 o C. Then the curd grains are gathered in a cheese cloth and are pressed in bulk for 2-4 hours. The pressed curd is cut into blocks (25x15 cm) and is fermented for 2-10 hours at 15-20 o C until ph reaches 5.2. The ripened curd blocks are cut into 0.3-0.5 cm thick slices Then these slices are dipped into hot wather (72-75 o C) or hot brine (72-75 o C, 5-6% salt) until the curd is plasticized. Then the curd is kneaded and is molded into metal hoops. Cheese is dry salted on the surface every day during 15-20 days. When slices are dipped into hot brine, cheese is not dry salted. This cheese is marketed without being fully ripened. Generally, cheese are ripened at 12-16 o C for 30-90 days with 85% humidity. 16

TULUM CHEESE 17

TECHNOLOGY Tulum cheese is made from sheep or goat milk or the mixture of these milks. But it can also made from cow milk. Raw milk is used for traditional Tulum cheese making. Industrially, standardized and pasteurized milk is used and calcium chloride and starter are added. Coagulation is obtained within 60-150 min at 32-34 o C after rennet addition. Coagulum is cut 0.5x3.0cm pieces. After cutting coagulum is ladled into a cloth bags and hung up for draining for 14-16 hours at room temperature. Then coagulum is pressed for 6-24 hours. Subsequently, when curd reaches the desired moisture, it is broken into small pieces to be dry salted with 2-3% salt. Salted curd is put in a goat skin and pressed. Then cheese is ripened in natural caves at 4-12 o C for 90-120 days with 75-85% humidity. 18

19

20

REGIONS OF TURKEY 21

Some of the traditional cheese produced in Turkey Name of the region Mediterranean Eastern Anatolia Aegean Name of the cheese Antalya kesme, Bez kaşar, Diberki, Çimi, Elbistan kelle, Ezme, Ham çökelek, Hellim, Isparta tulum, Kelle çökelek, Korkuteli deri, Maraş, Nor, Surke, Süller tuluk, Sünme, Sütçüler tortusu, Sütlü, Testi, Tulum keşi, Yalvaç küp, Yörük. Bitlis küp, Cacık, Civil (çeçil), Deve dili, Dövme, Erzincan tulum, Garvyer, Karın kaymağı, Kars kaşar, Köçer, Malatya çökeleği, Motal, Otlu lor, Otlu, Pestigen, Saçak, Şafak, Şavak, Şavak çökeleği, Şor loru, Tomas (serto), Tortum, Yaprak. Afyon tulum, Armola, Bergama tulumu, Çayır, İzmir tulumu, Karaburun lorlu keçi tulumu, Kazıklı, Kırktokmak, Kirlihanım, Kopanisti, Kuru çökelek, Kuru ezme, Posa, Sepet, Sepet loru, Tire çamur. Antep sıkma, Ezme, Kartal, Künefe, Otlu, Örgü, Urfa beyaz. Southeastern Anatolia Central Anatolia Ayaş basma, Ayaş ovama, Biberli çökelek, Çanak, Çepni, Çiğleme, Çömlek, Divle tulumu, Ekşi, Gödelek, Gölbaşı tulumu, Karaman tulum, Karaşar tulumu, Kayseri çömlek, Kesmük, Konya küflü, Küp, Küpecik, Pesküten. Black Sea Aho, Ayran kırması, Ayran, Cabatlı çökeleği, Cami boğazı, Civil, Ekşimik, Eridik, Giresun acı, Gorcola, İmansız, Kadina, Kargı tulumu, Karın kaymağı, Keş, Kolete, Kurçi, Külek,Lorlu kaşar kırığı, Minzi, Minzi kurut, Oğma, Su, Sürmene çökelekli mezele, Süt kırması, Şor, Teneke, Teleme, Telli, Telli kremelı, Tokat küp çökeleği, Tonya kaşarı, Tulum kaşarı, Varil, Yayla, Yer, Yumme, Yusufeli köylü küflü Marmara Abaza, Balkabağı küp, Çerkez, Çoban, Karabük, Mengen, Mihalıç, Sırvaka loru, Trakya 22 kaşarı

It is known that traditional cheese generally made from raw milk is pre-heated until fermentation temperatures or made from raw milk without heating. Because of this reason, the microflora of the raw milk and also contaminated microorganisms take place in the cheese flora. In this spontaneous fermentation conditions, production in a standard quality is impossible. 23

MICROFLORA OF TRADITIONAL CHEESE There are lots of studies on the microbial flora of the traditional cheese produced in Turkey. Coliform, yeast & mould, lactic acid bacteria and total aerobic mesophilic bacteria counts were determined in most of studies. However, there is limited literature about identification of the microorganisms that take place in the fermentation of the traditional cheese. 24

The results of the researches showed that counting results of the same cheese could be change according to the producer diversity. 25

Also it was detected that, decreasing ph value depends on growing lactic acid bacteria during the fermentation period of the traditional cheeses, inhibits the growing of coliform bacteria. But it is not enough for food safety because of obscurity of the beginning flora of spontaneously fermented cheeses. 26

Some microbiological counts of the traditional cheese produced in Turkey (log-cfu/g) Name of the Aerobic Plate Count Coliform Lipolytic Proteolytic Lactic Acid Yeast & Ref. cheese Bacteria Bacteria Bacteria Mould Hellim 6.40 3.54 - a - - - Arıcı (1991) 6.82 0 - - 5.51 5.57 Atasever (1999) 6.20 0 - - 5.36 4.59 Atasever (1999) Erzincan 9.32 6.51 6.27 7.23 6.93 6.25 Kurt (1991) tulumu 8.50 3.86 - - - 6.04 Bostan (1992) 9.26 3.38 - - 7.04 6.55 Dığrak (1994) Sünme 6.94 3.36 7.00-3.98 2.54 Kamber (2005) Kelle 4.66 1.88 - - - 2.46 Altun (1995) Maraş 6.34 0 - - 5.59 Tekinşen (1999) parmak 5.28 0 - - - 4.15 6.18 0 - - - 5.15 Çimi 8.85 5.72 7.00 7.30 6.62 62 Kılıç (1997) Van otlu 8.99 4.18 7.18 6.57 7.18 5.20 Kurt (1984) 6.93 2.97 - - 5.99 4.75 Sancak (1990) - 2.40 - - - 6.60 60 Ergün (1992) 6.34 5.75 - - - 5.67 Yetişmeyen (1992) 3.76 1.90 - - - 3.92 Sönmezsoy (1994) 5.82 2.89 6.15 5.26 5.15 6.67 67 Coşkun (1995) 8.23 5.66 - - 6.75 5.97 Sancak (1996) İzmir tulum - 3.04 - - 7.45 3.87 Kılıç (1990) 8.81 3.81 4.20-5.96 3.70 Kılıç (1998) Örgü 6.20 1.98 - - - 5.23 Akyüz (1998) 7.00 2.57 - - 6.23 5.00 Özdemir (1998) 5.59 2.48 - - - 4.69 Aksu (1999) Çerkez 7.81 0 - - - 4.79 Uysal (1998) 7.23 0 - - - 4.51 27 6.60 0 - - - 4.38

Name of the cheese Feta cheese Teleme cheese Orinotyri cheese Identified microorganisms Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus paracasei subsp. paracasei, Lactobacillus paracasei subsp. tolerans, Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactobacillus curvatus, Lactobacillus confusus, Lactobacillus brevis, Lactobacillus buchneri, Lactobacillus hilgardii, Enterococcus faecalis, Enterococcus durans, Pediococcus pentosaceus, Pediococcus pentosaceus subsp. intermedius and Pediococcus acidilactici Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus paracasei subsp. tolerans, Lactobacillus coryneformis, Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactobacillus xylosus, Lactobacillus brevis, Leuconostoc mesenteroides subsp. mesenteroides, Leuconostoc mesenteroides subsp. dextranicum, Leuconostoc lactis, Leuconostoc paramesenteroides, Lactococcus lactis subsp. lactis and Enterococcus faecium Lactococcus lactis subsp. lactis, Lactococcus garvieae, Lactococcus raffinolactis, Enterococcus faecalis, Enterococcus faecalis subsp. liquefacines, Enterococcus faecium, Enterococcus hirae, Enterococcus saccharolyticus, Enterococcus malodoratus, Weisella paramesenteroides, Pediococcus pentosaceus, Lactobacillus paracasei subsp. paracasei, Lactobacillus paracasei subsp. tolerans, Lactobacillus curvatus, Lactobacillus coryniformis subsp. coryniformis, Lactobacillus coriyniformis subsp. torquens, Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactobacillus paraplantarum and Lactobacillus homohiochii Kopanisti cheese Lactobacillus plantum, L.casei subsp. casei, L.casei subsp. rhamnosus, L.curuatus, L.xylosus, L.brevis, L.buchneri, L.viridescens, L.cellobiosus, Streptococcus faecalis, S.faecium, S.faecium subsp. casseliflavus, S.durans, P.pentosaceus and Micrococcus luteus Pichia membranefasciens, P.fermentans, Candida kefyr, Saccharomyces sp, Kluyveromyces sp, Rhodotorula rubna, Pichia homerii, Hansenula sp ve Torulopsis sp. Penicillium commune Şavak tulum Lactobacillus casei subsp. casei, Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactococcus lactis subsp. cremoris, Lactococcus lactis subsp. cheese lactis and Leuconostoc mesenteroides subsp. cremoris Erzurum blue Penicillium roqueforti and Geotrichum candidum mouldy cheese Konya mouldy Penicillium sp. and Aspergillus sp. cheese Isparta mouldy Penicillium, Aureobasidium, Geotrichum, Aspergillus, Mucor and Rhizopus cheese Kopanisti cheese Lactobacillus brevis, L.buchneri, L.casei, L.collinoides, L.johnsonii, L.mali, L.minor, L.oris, L.parabuchneri, L.reuteri, L.sanfrancisco, L.sharpeae, L.suebicus, L.vaginalis, L.viridescens ve Lactococcus lactis subsp. Cremoris 28 Kluyveromyces lactis and Debaryomyces hanseni

It seems that tradition and innovation appear as antonyms, but it is necessary to adapt the traditional foods to the food safety concept. Specifying starter culture will be considerable about optimizing production process for all traditionally fermented foods also for traditional cheese. By identification of the isolates recovered from traditional cheese, different combinations of them can be used as a starter culture for improving fermentation process without losing its special taste and aroma. Furthermore, by industrial production, it will be possible to meet these traditional cheese with much more people. 29

THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION 30