BAYS AND COASTAL SITES K y ö s t i H u o t a r i VIIKKI AND VANHANKAUPUNGIN- LAHTI BAY I came to know Vanhankaupunginlahti Bay, which will always remain a mysterious and fascinating world of treasures to me, when I was yet a small boy. If I started to feel down in the dumps, or if I were at a loose end, I had only to take my binoculars and set off for Viikki. There my sorrows evaporated and my troubles vanished as I followed all the amazing things going on out there in nature. I had no idea how the time 56 LET S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI - S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T
flashed by, and it was well into the evening before I was brought back down to earth. I half-remembered my cold supper and homework waiting for me as I came home in the dark, my thoughts still in another world. - Leo Lehtonen, Lintuparatiisi pääkaupungin liepeillä ( A birdwatcher s paradise on the edge of the Capital ), 1945. Situated in the geographical centre of Helsinki, Vanhankaupinginlahti ( Old Town Bay ), often simply called Viikki after the area to the north, is a veritable bird paradise in the middle of town. This nature sanctuary, a shallow sea bay surrounding the estuary of the River Vantaa, comprises extensive reed beds, shore meadows, sturdy forests and open waters. To the north of these wet-lands lie the old fields and pastures of Viikki. To the east rises a rocky, wooded ridge. BAYS AND COASTAL SITES On any hike you care to make into these varying landscapes, even in wintertime, it s a pretty safe bet you ll see at least one or two interesting kinds of bird, and very likely (four-legged) mammals as well. Upto the 2005 a total of 289 bird species have been observed at some time; an experienced bird-watcher may spot a hundred species on a good day in May. The area draws hikers in plenty, and you should be able to find birdwatchers you can ask about the latest findings. The estuary area is included in the European Union s network (Natura 2000) of valuable natural sites, and is designated as a valuable wetland area according to the International Ramsar Agreement. Including the Natura 2000 areas the nature reserve is 316 ha. As the area is extensive, we shall describe the approach to the bay from three directions: west, east and north. THE WEST SIDE OF THE BAY On its west side, Vanhankaupunginlahti Bay is fed by the River Vantaa, whose rapids just above the estuary provide the most sought after sight for the city s anglers. This is also the area where King Gustav Vasa of Sweden originally founded the city of Helsingfors in 1550. This site of the old town, close to the rapids, is an ideal place to set out for the many interesting sites around the bay. S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T - LET S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI 57
BAYS AND COASTAL SITES h OLD TOWN d Lc j 8 h h PIILO HIDE NATURE RESERVE 68,71,73B, 74,77 S h 6 ARABIAN- LAMPI P L 58
71V, 73B, 74 74N, 77S, 79V L C c HELSINKI GARDENIA c RUUSUTARHA 79,79B c BAYS AND COASTAL SITES h d MÖLYLÄ h N d 0 200 m h HERTTONIEMI @ 8 59
BAYS AND COASTAL SITES How to get there Leaving from the Railway Square, buses 68, 71, 73B, 74 and 77S all pass through Vanhakaupunki (the Old Town ). A good place to get off is just before the rapids, by the last block of flats along Hämeentie Road. From here, the birthplace of Helsinki is immediately to your left (on the west side) of the road, on the slopes of Kellomäki Hill. The next convenient stop is just after the bridge over the mouth of the river, by the Technical Museum. Vanhakaupunki, the Old Town, fishy birthplace of the city Helsinki was founded in 1550 by the banks of these rapids, which then swarmed with trout. Today, nothing remains of the old Helsingfors but the now buried foundations of the buildings. The dwelling quarters of the old town were spread over the slopes of Kellomäki Hill to the west of the river s mouth. Horses now graze on the slopes between the charming old wooden houses. On the top of the hill is a memorial to the founding of the city. The weir and mill on the western branch of the rapids are the oldest remaining construction in the area, and date back to the 19th century. By the western falls is a power station, which was used from 1911 till the 1970 s. As from 2000, the station will again generate electricity, for about 800 households. The rapids foam most splendidly in spring when the ice melts, and in autumn after heavy rains. The river can cause considerable floods, as the lakes storing water within the catchment of the River Vantaa cover only 2% of the drainage area. During floods the river carries an average of 144m 3 /s. After the city was founded, the king s manor was built on the island surrounded on either side by the rapids; hence the name Kuninkaankartanosaari, or King s Manor Island. Today the Technical Museum occupies this site. To help fish to rise, the eastern branch of the rapids was re-structured in 1999. Construction of the weir on the western branch in 1872 severely hindered the rise of trout into the river where they had spawned since time immemorial. Nowadays sea-trout, seasalmon and whitefish are planted in the river and estuary. A small number of these trout and salmon return after a few years of roaming the seas to spawn in the river, where they are now able to multiply. 60 LET S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI - S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T
The quieter stretches of the rapids offer Helsinki s most popular fishing sites. The salmon and trout rising into the river in autumn can weigh 10-20kg. During September and October people come from town to view these monsters leaping and their fins flashing in the foam. The shallow waters of Vanhankaupunginlahti Bay itself are the best area in Helsinki for catching pike, pike-perch and perch. Late in summer snake-like lampreys rise into the mouth of the river. This wealth of fish attract not only anglers to the rapids; goosanders, gulls and terns take their toll, too. BAYS AND COASTAL SITES The Kuningaskalastaja ( Kingfisher ) café, on Kuninkaankartanosaari Island beside the western rapids, sells fishing licences and hires out canoes for river trips, or for rowing out into the bay. Open May to Aug. 10am-10pm, other times of year 10am-4pm. For reservations call 728 1251. The red wooden house of the last fisherman in Vanhankaupinginlahti, who pursued his profession upto the 1950 s, still stands on a small rocky island just off the shore between Vanhakaupunki and Arabia. The name of this rock, Kokkoluoto ( Bonfire Rock ), dates from the 17th century, and probably refers to the use of the site as a beacon showing the shipping channel towards the old town. During the early part of the winter, the flow of the river keeps the water open for several hundred metres out into the bay. In March and April, when the ice starts breaking up, this is the first area where water-birds congregate. In recent winters the odd wandering otter has sometimes left tracks around open places where (s)he has been frolicking around in the water. A r t o N i r o n e n 61
BAYS AND COASTAL SITES The urban steppes of Arabia The west shore of Vanhankaupunginlahti Bay, from Vanhakaupunki southwards, is part of a former industrial landscape with rubbish tips, an urban steppe created out of landfill. During the 19th century the area was called Arabia and has given it s name also to the ceramics company by the main road. Those interested in the natural history of urban areas are well advised to get off the bus at an earlier stop along Hämeentie Road, by the College of Industrial Arts at the latest. From Hämeentie, you can make for the shore via Rajasampaanranta, for instance. Or stay on tram 6 till the terminus, and walk from there to Arabianranta shore and from south to it, Kyläsaari. This extensive area, with its dumps of debris and heaps of lopped off branches, is the best field of weeds in town. Near the shore-line are hiking tracks and scrubby meadows, behind which lies an incredibly scruffy zone littered with piles of junk. On the south side of the landfill area is a small pool where waders briefly appear during migration times; the great snipe and jack snipe can be seen here every year. The waste ground provides ideal nesting for several meadow species: Eurasian oystercatcher, little plover, lark, meadow-pipit, linnet, and northern wheater. In the autumn, the red-throated pipit, the horned lark, and the bluethroat are regularly seen in this area. A r t o N i r o n e n 62
During the cold months, weeds like mugwort attract linnets, redpolls and Eurasian tree-sparrows. The vegetation on the landfill includes several spectacular casuals. Around Midsummer the ornamental lupin, a garden escape originally from North America (Lupinus polyphyllus), colours the shore meadows with vivid ultramarine. The rich flora attracts several kinds of butterfly - and the butterfly enthusiasts who chase after them. A striking feature in wintertime are the restless bundles of tumble-mustard (Sisymbrium altissimum). These rove around just as in the old westerns; little bushes tumbled by the wind over the snow and ice. The species is native to the steppes of western Asia, but has been spread by man to North America as well. The sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) stands planted experimentally in certain parts of the area produce masses of glowing orange berries in autumn. The edible, but very acid berries are extremely rich in Vitamin C. BAYS AND COASTAL SITES Some weekends, large angling competitions are organized by the shoreside. During weekdays, students from the nearby College of Industrial Art construct works of environmental art by the shore. The northern parts of Arabia shore are recently built to a new housing district. The coastal zone is made into a park. Life on the wasteland is gone there, but still exist just next to it in the south, Kyläsaari. A r t o N i r o n e n 63
BAYS AND COASTAL SITES Pornaistenniemi A hike into the coastal forests and wetlands of this nature conservation area starts out from the foot of the large green footbridge (Matinkaari) close to the old town, but on the east side of the estuary. The nature-trail, about half a kilometre long, encircles the grove woodlands close to the shore, and is suitable for wheelchairs. By the side of the route is a bird-watching tower and a hideout beside a pool for water-birds. The woodland burgeons with flowers in spring and early summer. After the kingcups and wood anemones in May, the air becomes fragrant in early June with the blossom of the bird-cherries. Lammassaari From Pornaistenniemi the wooden causeway continues another 700 metres through the reeds to Lammassaari. Jari Kostet. A snowy owl in Hakala birdtower. December 1999. 64
Especially on summer nights, the commonest bird of these reed-beds, the sedge warbler, is variously accompanied by the grasshopper warbler, Eurasian reed warbler, marsh warbler, or Blyth s reed warbler. The causeway has been one of the best places in Finland to see and hear bearded tits, which started to nest in the country in 1986. In the swamps beside the causeway the splendid greater spearwort (Ranunculus lingua) flowers during the dog-days of summer - the only colony in Helsinki! The sharp-eyed botanist will spot the attractive marsh pea (Lathyrus palustris) here, too. BAYS AND COASTAL SITES The bird-watching tower on the north shore of Lammassaari is one of the best observation points in the area. Shorewards from the tower is a shore meadow restored since 1994 in a way to enrich the bird-life and vegetation of the area. The meadow is pastured by cattle during the summer. The little plover, redshank, and several pairs of northern lapwing nest in the area. In late summer grey herons stand by the shore as if frozen, waiting to pounce on small fish. During the seasonal migrations, large numbers of water-birds gather along the shores of the meadow and on the nearby waters. You will need a telescope here if you want to see the birds properly. A very rare eastern visitor, the citrine wagtail, has nested here since 1999. The rarities seen in the meadow in the last decade include black-wiged stilt, terek sandpiper and great egret. The highest point of Lammassaari is crowned by the summer colonial residence of the Koitto Temperance Movement, a log building reminiscent of a church, built in 1905. The house was used as a place for dancing upto the 1960 s. The diminutive cottages on the island were also built by the members of the temperance movement, the oldest dating from the 1940 s. The residents offer simple night lodgings in some of the cottages in summer, priced at around 5/10 per person. You will need your own sleeping-bag and provisions. Enquiries on site or www.koitto.net In winter, Lammassaari is a diurnal resting place for the Eurasian eagle owl. The cooing of stock doves, common around Viikki, can be heard from march until the beginning of August. On summer nights Lammassaari is one of the best place for bats. It is quite usual to meet raccoon-dogs along the tracks and causeways in the dusk. S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T - LET S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI 65
BAYS AND COASTAL SITES THE EAST SIDE OF THE BAY There are more extensive forests on the eastern side of the bay, and the area offers longer walks of several kilometres than in the west. Coastal reed-beds and moist grey alder groves alternate with rocky hills, spruce or pine forest and fields. How to get there By metro from the city centre to Herttoniemi metrostation (10 min). Kivinokka From the metro-station make your way to 4 Hiihtomäentie Road where the trail begins, rather imperceptibly. To get to Kivinokka, follow the path southwards (bearing left), and cross the narrow area of low ground bordering Saunalahti Bay until you reach the forest path on the other side of the inlet, staying close to the shore. By this time you will find yourself in a splendid spruce forest. The path leads to a bird watchers platform on a rocky rise by the shore, less than a kilometre from the road. Kivinokka is a wooded peninsula, about 1.2 km long. The northern shore of its main part is covered with mature spruce forest with a nature trail and bird watchers platform. The rest of the peninsula is given over to cottages with allotment gardens used by Helsinki residents. The south shore is a public beach and close by, near the metro-station, is a manor house and park from the early 19 th century. You can approch Kivinokka by car or bike from Itäväylä (the Main East Road ), turning onto Kulosaaren puistotie Road, and the turn into Kivinokka by the allotment garden area. Follow the unmetalled road through the gardens until you reach a barrier, to the left of which is a parking area. Starting out from the information poster by the barrier, follow the northward road track for 300m, when the nature trail begins along a downhill stretch, before the sports ground by the shore. The nature trail, showing most of the native trees, continues for about another 300m through coniferous forest to the bird platform. There are also posters to help you find out about nature in the area. The trail, bird platform and posters are designed for the visually disabled and people in wheel-chairs as well. 66 LET S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI - S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T
The reed-beds in the sea inlet are home to the largest colony, several dozen pairs, of great crested grebe in the bay. Many species of forest birds inhabit the spruce forests on Kivinokka, which are approaching a primaeval state: wood warblers, wrens, song thrushes, and crested tits. During the 2000 s, the Eurasian hobby has nested in this forest, the young birds of the breeding pair are noisy in the August. Around the giant spruce forests of Kivinokka are more open rocky areas of coarse-barked, venerable pine trees. Nearer the shore are leafy glades with lime trees and ostrich ferns. BAYS AND COASTAL SITES A r t o N i r o n e n 67
BAYS AND COASTAL SITES Fastholma, Mölylä and Purolahti The pathway from 4 Hiihtäjäntie Road will take you to these sites, too. An elevated shoreside rock beside the pathway will give you a view over the narrow inlet of Saunalahti Bay. The path will take you along the shore of the bay northwards (turning right) towards Viikki. The best views over Vanhankaupunginlahti Bay are to be had from a high rock at the end of Majavantie Road. To reach this pinnacle from the pathway, you ascend wooden steps, the remains of a ski-jump sited here between the 1930 s and 1970 s. Fastholma is a peninsula densely covered with deciduous woodland, at the tip of which are two wooden villas occupied by market gardeners in the 1910 s. From the birdtower bird watchers will be able to survey the eastern stretches of the bay. Birds characteristic of the woodlands of Fastholma are the rosefinch, thrush nightingale and many nocturnal song-birds. You make for Mölylänniemi by turning left off the main pathway by the old ski-jump, next to a tiny pool and some allotments. On the north-western point of the peninsula is a rocky outcrop: an ideal vantage point for wildlife enthusiasts. In spring, a spring by the rock keeps the water open. At low water good mud flats favoured by waders are exposed. Fine stands of mature spruce grow on Mölylä. On the north side of Mölylä, by the overhead power-line, the pathway veers west, and shortly after crosses over the dip by a narrow wedge of wetland, Purolahti Bay. At this point, between April and October, you can hardly miss spotting among the undergrowth a bird typical of such places, the reed bunting. The swampy area of Purolahti Bay, close to the path, is one of the most important flood-meadows around Viikki. At times seawater innundates this pasture meadow, which has been managed since 1999 to prevent it from turning to scrub. Northern lapwing, redshank, northern shoveller and garganey nest in this meadow. The highly endangered great snipe regularly pauses here during the migrations. On the fringes of the meadow, close to 68 LET S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI - S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T
the path, is a rocky meadow. The dry meadow flora on its south slope deserves more than a casual glance. In summer the glowing cerise flowers of the maiden pink (Dianthus arenarius) and the golden lady s bedstraw (Galium verum) make a colourful tapestry. THE NORTH SIDE OF THE BAY The farming area to the north of the nature conservation area is called Viikki, the site of the experimental farm of the University of Helsinki and, nowadays, of one of the largest bioscience centres in Europe. The 150-odd head of cattle on the farm make for a rural atmosphere. Next to the farm, a new horticultural centre, Helsinki- Gardenia, was completed in 2001. The centre is to include a nature school for school-children, an information centre for the area and a winter garden with coffee-room services. BAYS AND COASTAL SITES How to get there Bus 68 from the central railway station will take you to Viikki in about 20 minutes. Buses 70, 70T, 73 and 75 go from Railway Square past the university and the science park bus-stop. A good landmark for the stop is the round, blue information centre, which also includes a public library. About 300 m from the round blue centre, immediately to the south-east of the, grey departmental buildings parallel to the motorway you will find,, perhaps the largest collection of roses to be found in the Nordic Countries. Some of the older varieties have not been found outside Finland. If you come by car, there are parking places on the south side of Viikintie Road near the experimental farm, and close to the Helsinki-Gardenia. From here, paths lead to the farmlands of Viikki, and beyond to Hakalanniemi bird tower, which commands excellent views over the protected area. It is forbidden to stray onto the fields unless the ground is properly frozen. Once you step on the track across the fields, you are in the countryside. And this is the geographical cente of Helsinki! The high rise buildings to the north, and tower blocks rearing up elsewhere from behind the forests, as well as the many weekend trippers, are reminders that S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T - LET S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI 69
BAYS AND COASTAL SITES the city is not far away. By present-day Finnish standards, the fields of Viikki with their open drainage channels, pastures and islands of woodland represent a very diverse farming landscape. Northern lapwings, always a focus of attention, started nesting in Viikki in the 1880 s, when they were still rare in Finland. Especially in spring, their plaintive call and swaying courtship flights are an inseparable feature of these landscapes. In spring and autumn thousands of migrant birds rest in the fields. The commonest species are the skylark, chaffinch, and various doves and thrushes. The snow bunting and Lapland bunting represent a northern element. In the autumn, the barnacle geese which are nesting in the Helsinki archipelago, gather to graze in Viikki. Their flocks can be some thousands. Among them have been individuals of other goose species, e.g. brent goose, greylag goose, and greater white-fronted goose. Hakalanniemi The forests of Hakalanniemi along the northernmost part of the bay include an arboretum about 20 ha (50 acres) in extent, planted with exotic trees and shrubs. The arboretum is comparatively young, and most of the trees have yet to attain mature proportions. There are two much-used bird watchers towers near the shore. Stock pigeons often sit on the power lines which stride across the bay; in autumn the flocks frequently number as many as 100-200 birds. During migrations, the osprey fishes in the shallow waters, and often sits on electricity poles. The lesser spotted woodpeckers in the alder groves make the most noise with both their whistling and energetic hammering in spring. Viikki provides one of the best habitats for this species of woodpecker. There are usually about a dozen pairs nesting in the woodlands near this shore. The arboretum plantings include several species of maple (Acer platanoides, A. pseudoplatanus, A.rubrum, A.tataricum) as well as Korean fir (Abies koreana), Davurian larch (Larix gmelinii), Serbian spruce (Picea omorika). Conifers in the American section are balsam fir (Abies balsamea), from whose resin comes Canada balsam, still used in microscopy and other optical work. Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii) from North America s west coast can live for over a thousand years, and grow to a diameter of three metres. 70 LET S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI - S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T
Viikki is the oldest farming area still in use in Helsinki. The field have been tended since the 15th century. In the centre of the Science Park and biocentre is a protected ochrepainted wooden house dating from the 1830 s. This is the oldest building in the area, and was formerly Viikki s main farmhouse. Vanhankaupunginlahti Bay has been famous as a bird paradise since before the middle of the 19th century, when the bird painter Magnus von Wright and his friends would set out on expeditions there. The golden age for birdlife in the bay was during the 1930 s and 40 s, at which time as many as 10 000 pairs of black-headed gulls nested in pools in the swamps. The bay was protected in 1959. This has not prevented its waters from becoming polluted, which has destroyed a substantial part of the previously rich bird-life. Extensive work is now being done to restore the diversity of the area s flora and bird-life. The restoration of meadows have provided good results. BAYS AND COASTAL SITES Other contacts:weekly bird-news and other information of the nature (in Finnish): http://www.gardenia-helsinki.fi/viikinluonto/ An association of nature-lovers in Kuusiluto: www.kuusiluoto.info (Vanhankaupungin kulttuuri-ekologinen klubi ry) Inara OY is organizing excursion on the sea by Kuplakka-ferry and rents Villa Gammeli for gatherings: 09-8684 3660/ 041-511 0223 www.inara.fi Other birds in Viikki Smew (during migrations), water rail (upto 10-25 calling out), spotted crake, hen harrier, Eurasian sparrowhawk (nesting 2004), tawny owl and long-eared owl (these nest, but all the Finnish owls are casual visitors), black woodpecker, white-backed woodpecker (a winter visitor), ring ouzel (every year April-May), river warbler, great reed warbler, great grey shrike (winter and during migrations). Water-birds nesting in the 2000 s (smallest and largest numbers in brackets): great crested grebe (43-71), mute swan (2-4), Eurasian wigeon (11-14), teal (2-6), mallard (78-136), garganey (1-2), northern shoveller (2-6), tufted duck (4-9), goldeneye (7-20), coot (5-18). Other animals Brown hare, harvest mouse, red fox, stoat, weasel, badger, common lizard, common frog, moor frog. S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T - LET S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI 71