Nepal In Search of the Red Panda

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1 [ Nepal In Search of the Red Panda Outline itinerary Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4/5 Day 6 Day 7 Day 8 Day 9 Day 10 Depart London. Kathmandu. Fly to Bhadrapur; transfer to Dobate. Dobate: Red Panda and birds. Trek to Hange Tham. Hange Tham. Ilam. Fly Kathmandu. Fly London. Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve Extension Day 9/12 Day 13/14 Day 15 Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve. Fly Kathmandu. Fly London. Dates and costs See next page for a complete list Single room supplement Main tour: 295 (Koshi extension: 95). Focus Red Panda, birds and other mammals. Images from top: Dobate, Red Panda and Golden-breasted Fulvetta Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf s Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0) E: [email protected] W:

2 Dates and Costs 2016 Friday 18th November Sunday 27th November 2016 Cost: 2,895 Koshi Tappu extension to: Friday 2nd December 2016 Cost: Friday 17th November Sunday 26th November 2017 Cost: 2,895 Koshi Tappu extension to: Friday 1st December 2017 Cost: reduction if booked without flights (land-only trip). Grading Grade B/C (moderate). We will be doing plenty of walking on this tour, including full-day hikes and a trek to Hange Tham, so you will need to be reasonably fit and enjoy walking if you are to get the most out of this holiday. On the extension we will be exploring from jeeps, on foot and in canoes. The Himalaya as seen from the flight from Kathmandu to Bhadrapur

3 Introduction This holiday offers a unique opportunity to join one of our most popular tour leaders, Dr. Hem Sagar Baral or Mr Badri Chaudhary, on a special 10-day tour focusing on looking for the elusive Red Panda, in eastern Nepal. This exciting new holiday focuses on the rich wildlife of the eastern Himalaya and, in particular, a quest to track and observe the elusive Red Panda an iconic mammal, sought after by many but seen by very few. In an attempt to achieve our goal, we focus on the last remaining areas of temperate oak and rhododendron forest in the far east of Nepal. Here, in the Himalayan foothills, not far from the Indian hill-station of Darjeeling and in the shadows of Kanchenjunga (the world s third highest mountain), Red Pandas are not uncommon. Until recently, however, they were rarely seen. Now, thanks to the work of the Nepalese scientists who have been tracking and researching the species in this area with the help of local forest guards, we at last have a chance of observing the Red Panda in the wild. In the territory of the Red Panda! In fact, these forests are well known to Naturetrek staff, tour leaders and some clients, as we have explored them regularly over the past 30 years or so, looking for their rare birds in particular those east Himalayan specialities not found elsewhere in Nepal. Such avian gems as Bay Woodpecker, Large Niltava, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Hill Prinia, Yellow-bellied Warbler, Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler, Rufous-throated Wren Babbler, Rufous-capped Babbler, Cutia, Black-headed Shrike Babbler, Rusty-fronted and Hoary-throated Barwings, Golden-breasted Fulvetta, Firetailed Myzornis, Brown and Black-throated Parrotbill, Maroon-backed Accentor and eight species of laughingthrush have been among our target species in the past, and we will look for such special species again on this tour. To reach the area chosen for our Red Panda quest, we must fly first to Kathmandu, and onward to Bhadrapur in the fertile lowlands of east Nepal. From here we will take a long but scenic drive, on a metalled road, up into the pleasant green hills around Ilam. This small town, set amongst terraced hills and tea gardens, is the centre for tea Black-throated Parrotbill production in the country Nepal s Darjeeling. From here we complete our journey into the hills using the dirt road to Dobate, a tiny Sherpa village where we will set up a tented base-camp for a 3- night stay. En route we will pass heavily cultivated terraced fields which rise steeply, like steps, for thousands of feet above the shady river valleys, watered by tumbling streams whose deep hillside ravines harbour remnant subtropical vegetation and towering bamboos, the home of scimitar babblers, sibias, piculets, minlas and other exotic birds. Naturetrek 1

4 Nepal - In Search of the Red Panda It is in the higher temperate forests between Dobate and Hange Tham, however, that we will search for Red Pandas. This is a marvellous region of dense, damp forest, where oaks, rhododendrons and magnolias, decorated with mosses, lichens and epiphytic orchids, support an outstanding range of Himalayan birds and mammals. Here, we will use the local forest trails to access known roosts and feeding areas in the company of the local forest guards who have been monitoring the species in association with the Red Panda Network (RPN). We will spend two days on foot, from our tented base camp at Dobate, before trekking on for a day to Hange Tham. There we will set up a second base camp for two nights to allow us to explore the similarly excellent forest above this second Sherpa village. The Red Panda (also known as the Fire Fox or Lesser Panda), like its relative the Giant Panda, also eats bamboo, although not exclusively. It is a solitary animal and, although found in China, India, Burma (Myanmar) and Bhutan, as well as Nepal, relatively little is known about its behaviour and distribution owing to its preference for remote mountain forests lying between 2,200 and 4,800 metres (7,200 and 15,700 feet) in altitude. In particular, the species favours mixed deciduous and conifer forest with abundant old trees and a dense understorey of bamboo. That habitat is found here, and it is favoured also by such other mammals as Leopard, Leopard Cat, Serow, Large Indian Civet, Yellow-throated Red Panda Marten and Himalayan Orange-bellied Squirrel, a sighting of any one of which must be considered a bonus. We conclude our visit to the area with a final night in Ilam, before driving to Bhadrapur for a flight to Kathmandu then London. However, for those wishing to extend their holiday, we offer an extension to Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve, one of Asia s finest wetlands. Here, a remnant population of wild Water Buffalo may be seen, as well as such other mammals as Ganges River Dolphin, Jungle Cat, Golden Jackal, and even the endangered Fishing Cat, amongst others. Our base, the delightful and tranquil Koshi Camp, is also a birder s paradise. Up to 160 bird species may be seen in a single day; amongst them such local specialities as Red-necked Falcon, Striated Grassbird and the endangered Swamp Francolin and Bengal Florican. Indian Courser, Small Pratincole, Pallas s Gull, Blackbellied Tern, Siberian Rubythroat and Smoky Warbler will be among other target species, while the Black, Cinnamon and Yellow Bitterns resident at Koshi Camp are always a crowd pleaser! A full day on Phulchowki Mountain (a top site for birds, Ganges River Dolphin flowers and mountain views), from Kathmandu, is also included in this extension. 2 Naturetrek

5 Day 1 In Flight We depart from London this evening on board Qatar Airways scheduled flight to Kathmandu, via Doha. Please note that airlines flying to Kathmandu are very limited and therefore seats get booked up early. We may not always be able to accommodate group members on Qatar Airways, in which case alternatives such as Jet Airways or Gulf Air may be used on some occasions. Day 2 Kathmandu We are scheduled to arrive in Kathmandu mid-afternoon and we will then transfer to the Marshyangdi Hotel, our base for one night. Those who prefer not to spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing may have time for a little sightseeing or shopping in the colourful streets of Thamel where our hotel is situated. Day 3 Fly to Bhadrapur; transfer to Dobate Today we ll fly to the small town of Bhadrapur in the far eastern corner of Nepal. There will be a private vehicle waiting for us at Bhadrapur and we ll drive north towards Ilam and Dobate. The drive to Dobate is very scenic. We ll pass through lowland villages, as well as cultivations including tea-gardens and subtropical vegetation, before reaching Ilam. From Ilam we continue our journey to Dobate, climbing until we reach the upper temperate vegetation at Dobate. The drive from Biblatey (soon after Ilam) to Dobate will be on a dirt road passing through hill villages and farmland and light Alder forests with cardamom plantations. We will aim to reach Dobate in the afternoon, and it will be our base for three nights while we explore the habitats around this very small Sherpa settlement. Day 4 5 Dobate searching for Red Pandas & birds For two days we will explore the forest near Dobate, looking for Red Pandas and a variety of birds. If local conditions are favourable, we ll head to the best areas for seeing Red Pandas and spend two full days in the Red Panda habitat near Dobate (left) and Chestnut-crowned Warbler (right) Naturetrek 3

6 Nepal - In Search of the Red Panda company of local guides looking for this elusive and beautiful mammal. Should conditions not be ideal at higher altitudes we will still explore the local forest, hoping to see Red Pandas and enjoying the diversity of bird species in the area. Day 6 7 Trek to Hange Tham We leave early today, after breakfast, and trek to Hange Tham. We ll walk through a relatively undisturbed oak forest and climb to a ridge called Singalila, bordering India. We ll have a short (10-minute) walk, a small portion of which will be on a dirt-track road, before we turn right and head down towards Hange Tham. We will stop for lunch en route. Next day we have a full day to explore the forests of Hange Tham looking for birds, mammals and other wildlife. Black-throated Sunbird Day 8 Ilam We ll leave Hange Tham after lunch, giving us one more chance to explore the forest and look for any species we have missed. After lunch we ll walk down (for over an hour) to meet the jeep to take us to Ilam. Day 9 Kathmandu Today we must leave Ilam and begin the drive to Bhadrapur, a bustling town situated in the Gangetic floodplains of south-eastern Nepal, where we catch our plane to Kathmandu. Heading west, the flight gives spectacular views of the Himalayas (weather permitting) including distant views of the world s highest peak, Everest. Day 10 In Flight Today we must transfer to Kathmandu airport for our return flight to London. It should be noted that some flights will arrive back into London early on Tuesday morning, if they are overnight flights back from Kathmandu. Flight times will be confirmed closer to departure dates. Fire-tailed Myzornis 4 Naturetrek

7 Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve Extension Cost: 695 Single room supplement: 95 (The minimum number of people required to run this extension is six, however we may run it in case of less numbers at our discretion, with local guides.) Days 9 12 Koshi Camp Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve It is a long journey from Ilam to the Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve. Due to annual damage by the monsoon, the highway is under a constant state of repair and tends to be a patchwork of tarmac and rough dirt roads. Although tiring, it is also a fascinating journey. By making an early start we will aim to reach Koshi Camp by late afternoon. The Tented Camp close to the great Koshi River will be our base for four nights. The Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve is situated in the Sapta-Koshi River plain in the eastern corner of Nepal, close to the country s southern border with India. The reserve covers 175 square kilometres to the north of the kilometre-long barrage that spans the Koshi River. This was built between 1958 and 1964 to control and prevent flooding in the plains of northern India to the south. The vast expanse of open water created by the barrage, and the marshes, lagoons, sandbanks, mudflats and arable land that lie around it offer an outstanding wetland habitat, and one of the finest birdwatching sites in Asia. The heart of the reserve lies some 14 kilometres north of the barrage, where seasonally inundated grasslands, lagoons and remnant patches of Khair (Acacia catechu) and Sissoo (Dalbergia sissoo) forest lie alongside the eastern bank of the broad Koshi River. Almost all of Nepal s long list of wildfowl, waders, storks, ibises, egrets, terns and gulls occur here, plus a great variety of landbirds, especially warblers and birds of prey. Well in excess of 100 species should be seen each day in this wonderful area, amongst them such local specialities as Swamp Francolin, Red-necked Falcon and Striated Marsh Warbler. Other species to look out for include Siberian Rubythroat, Dusky, Smoky, Blyth s Reed, Paddyfield and Thick-billed Warblers, White s and Black-throated Thrushes, Richard s Pipit, Painted Snipe, Great Stone Plover, Pied and Pallid Harriers, Black Bittern, Falcated Duck and Baer s Pochard. The sharp-eyed may also be lucky enough to see one of the endangered Gangetic River Dolphins. The heart of the reserve lies some 14 kilometres north of the barrage, where seasonally inundated grasslands, lagoons and remnant patches of Khair (Acacia catechu) and Sissoo (Dalbergia sissoo) forest lie alongside the eastern bank of the broad Koshi River. This region is the last Naturetrek 5

8 Nepal - In Search of the Red Panda refuge of the Wild Water Buffalo in Nepal, and other mammals include Leopard, Fishing Cat, Jungle Cat, Asiatic Jackal and Nilgai (or Blue Bull ) the subcontinent s largest antelope. Your most regular and rewarding wildlife outings will be on foot, exploring the grasslands, river, lagoons and woodlands close to the Camp, and the vicinity of the barrage, a short drive away. We will also take you by raft onto the wide waters of the Koshi River to enjoy the birdlife of the otherwise inaccessible sandbanks and islands, and to allow you the chance to get close to such mammals as wild Water Buffalo. Back in Koshi Camp this evening it will be worth gazing skywards at dusk to look out for the regular passage of Indian Flying Foxes that pass over the Camp most evenings. Koshi images, clockwise from top-left: birdwatching on the banks of the Koshi River, rafting on the Koshi River, Spotted Owlet, Wild Water Buffalo, Jungle Cats and Pied Harrier 6 Naturetrek

9 Day 13 Kathmandu Today we must leave Koshi and begin the one and a half hour drive to Biratnagar, a bustling town situated in the Gangetic floodplains of south-eastern Nepal, where we catch our plane to Kathmandu. Heading west, the flight gives spectacular views of the Himalaya (weather permitting) including distant views of the world s highest peak, Mount Everest. Day 14 Kathmandu We will spend today birdwatching on the forested slopes of Phulchowki, at 2,740 metres the highest peak in the valley. Marble quarrying is sadly affecting the area but it still remains a wonderful birding spot. The variety of laughing-thrushes, babblers, bulbuls, flowerpeckers, flycatchers, sunbirds, tits and warblers is tremendous. We will drive up Phulchowki in the early morning, ascending as far as the ice will allow. Here we should get good views of the snow-clad Great Himalaya, including the Annapurna range, Langtang and many of Nepa s other high peaks (provided the weather is clear!). We will then spend the rest of the day walking down the mountain through its fine temperate and subtropical forest, with a picnic lunch en route. Some of the many highlights should include Redflanked Bluetail, Fire-tailed Sunbird, White-collared and Grey-winged Blackbirds, Long-tailed Minivet, White-tailed Nuthatch, Orange-barred Leaf Warbler, Orange-bellied Leafbird and many more. More elusive species include Nepal Cutia, Kalij Pheasant, Red-billed Leiothrix and Black-faced Leaf Warbler. Before heading back to our hotel we will stop at the Godavari Botanical Gardens at the base of Phulchowki. Within this lightly wooded park we hope to find some of the lower altitude species such as the spectacular Red-billed Blue Magpie, Pallas s Warbler, Orangegorgetted Flycatcher, Yellow-bellied Fantail and perhaps the elusive Spotted Forktail. If you would prefer to spend this day doing a sightseeing tour of the city and temples of Kathmandu we will be pleased to arrange this for you (but this must be booked with us prior to your departure from London and will cost 195 for any single traveller and 150 per person for 2 or more). The tour may include Nepal's largest Hindu temple at Pashupatinath, the Buddhist "stupa" (shrine) and Tibetan settlement at Boudhinath, and the fine temples and palaces of Patan s Durbar Square. It also includes lunch in one of the traditional restaurants. Day 15 In flight Today we must transfer to Kathmandu airport for our return flight to London. It should be noted that some flights will arrive back into London early on Thursday morning, if they are overnight flights back from Kathmandu. Flight times will be confirmed closer to departure dates. N.B. Please note that the itinerary below offers our planned programme of excursions. However, adverse weather and other local considerations can necessitate some reordering of the programme during the course of the tour, though this will always be done to maximise best use of the time and weather conditions available. Naturetrek 7

10 Nepal - In Search of the Red Panda Weather Between November and December in Nepal, you can expect dry and sunny weather. Temperatures in lowland Nepal range from 2-4 C in the early morning, to C during the day, dropping to 2-4 C again at night. However, as our programme concentrates on the high regions, you can expect cold weather, with daytime temperatures between 5 and 10ºC. Nights will be much cooler, and frosts are always possible on this trip. Rain at this time of year is unusual. Clothing Please inspect the separate clothing list, sent to you on booking, thoroughly. Warm clothing will be useful for mornings and evenings, and a warm jacket and gloves may be useful on the tour up Phulchowki. Shorts and T-shirts will be essential in the heat of the lowlands. Food & accommodation All accommodation and meals are included, except for main meals in Kathmandu. You should allow approximately 35 for these. All accommodation on this tour is simple but comfortable, with private facilities. Bird lists & previous tour reports Where available these are automatically provided on booking, and will gladly be sent to you before, if you wish for a more detailed preview. Extra expenses Please note that we do not include the following in the cost of this holiday: visa, national park fees, currently US$20 per day (paid locally in US dollars or UK Pounds, depending on activities on arrival and departure days); similar amount for the Koshi extension and all items of a more personal nature such as drinks, laundry, souvenirs, and tips for your guide and driver (allow 35). Your safety & security You have chosen to travel to Nepal. Risks to your safety and security are an unavoidable aspect of all travel and the best current advice on such risks is provided for you by the Foreign and Commonwealth Office. In order to assess and protect against any risks in your chosen destination, it is essential that you refer to the Foreign Office website regularly prior to travel. Entry Requirements All UK passport holders and most other nationalities require a visa for Nepal, which is obtainable at the airport in Kathmandu on your arrival or in advance from your nearest embassy. No vaccinations are mandatory for entry, but as recommended in our brochure we think it is wise to also be protected against TB, polio, typhoid, tetanus and hepatitis A and to take malaria prophylactics. Above all, it is essential to consult your GP about your individual requirements as soon as possible before travelling. 8 Naturetrek

11 Travel Insurance It is a condition of joining any Naturetrek holiday that you are fully covered by personal travel insurance against any possible medical expenses, to include the cost of repatriation and the cost of air evacuation should this be necessary. We ask that you send us the following details before you travel: the name of your insurance provider and a contact telephone number, your policy number, its expiry date, details of the sum insured for medical and repatriation cover and the emergency medical assistance telephone number. How to book your place In order to book your place on this holiday, please complete and post to us the booking form, which you will find at the back of our main Naturetrek brochure, together with a deposit of 20% of the holiday cost, plus the full cost of any room supplements if required. Alternatively, you are welcome to book online at or over the phone by calling with a credit or debit card. If you do not have a copy of the brochure, please call us on or request one via our website. Receive our e-newsletter Join the Naturetrek ing list and be the first to hear about new tours, additional departures and new dates, tour reports and special offers. Visit to sign up. Naturetrek 9

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