PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR

Transcription

1 PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR TECHNICAL GUIDE

2 If there is one piece of wisdom I could share with my peers it is to never, ever stop educating yourself. Invest in growing your knowledge every day. No matter what stage of the game you are in, fresh out of Beauty School or decades in the industry, start now and dedicate yourself to growing and learning then go for it with all you ve got! - Don Bewley, co-founder Eufora International table of contents EUFORACOLOR INTRODUCTION...4 HAIR STRUCTURE...6 WORKING WITH COLOR PRINCIPLES...7 Primary, Secondary and Tertiary Colors Complementary Colors, Color Harmony and Monochromatic Color DECOLORIZING...9 Melanin and the Underlying Pigment Chart EUFORACOLOR WHEEL UNDERSTANDING EUFORACOLOR...11 EUFORACOLOR Level System and the EUFORACOLOR Families FORMULATING...12 Sensitivity Testing and the Four Steps to Great Color Formulations COVERING GREY...1 Standard Mixing Resistant Grey Options GENERAL USAGE AND GUIDELINES Standard Application, Super Lighteners, AloeLite Blue Bleaching Pods EUFORA UNIVERSAL CREAM DEVELOPERS COLOR ELIXIR never, ever stop educating yourself

3 introduction A TRUE HYBRID PERFORMANCE PALETTE It s complete and it s smart. EuforaColor innovates with an economic and hybrid approach, including No Ammonia and Low Ammonia shades that work synergistically with one another for optimum performance. Six Universal Cream Developers further deliver unlimited full spectrum formulating options. No Ammonia Shades: Permanent, long-lasting 100% coverage on all applications with natural color intensity and exceptional endurance. Calibrated to match tone and mixing formulations with the Low Ammonia shades. Low Ammonia Shades: Tried and true series showing its muscle when needing to lift up to 4 levels with color deposit. Less than 1% ammonia content equals softer, healthier hair with predictable results. Calibrated to match tone and mixing formulations with the No Ammonia shades. Shade bases are created with primary colors enabling true tone and natural results with an ability to amp up color intensity. EuforaColor lets you customize beautiful, vibrant and dimensional results that hit your target every time. Bold and Striking or Subtle and Soft Translucent or Opaque Permanent or Demi-permanent EuforaColor Pigment Technology is the purest and smallest in the pigment world today. Micro Molecular Technology enables molecular size pigment to link deep into the cortex for lasting endurance and exceptional color saturation. Micro Molecular Technology allows the use of a lower volume developer to protect against cuticle damage for healthy, beautiful, soft and shiny hair. Each shade is processed in a sterile vacuum environment that allows the micro-color pigment to atomize, reaching a 99.98% purity level for the truest color, tones and light reflective dimension. HYDRATION, STRENGTH and SHINE Legendary Aloe Vera is rich in amino acids, the building blocks of protein, and is known for its nourishing and healing benefits. Aloe helps maintain hydration and protects the health of the hair and scalp. Jojoba Oil is revered for its ability to soothe, smooth and moisturize hair. This lightweight oil contains Vitamin E and is rich in fatty glycerides, natural emollients that help to improve shine, softness and moisture retention. Cera Alba (Beeswax) is an impressive multi-functioning natural emollient that provides lubrication and hydration for velvety softness. It is also highly regarded for its ability to add volume, thickness, strength and shine to the hair. Micro Molecular Technology along with the renowned benefits of Aloe, Jojoba and Beeswax minimize damage and preserve the integrity of the hair and scalp. The result is silky, healthy, vibrant hair with unparalleled color saturation and shine. CREATIVE FREEDOM RESULTS YOU CONTROL TONAL PERFECTION 4 5

4 Overlapping Cuticle Cells Hair Cuticle hair structure The physical structure and the individual characteristics of the hair will play an important part in the hair coloring service. Basic understanding of the hair fiber will help you formulate for success. Protein Filament Cortical Cell Medulla Cortex The structure of hair is typically divided into three categories. Microfibril Reproduced with the permission of the Croda Group of Companies Hair Texture TEXTURE: The texture of hair is in reference to the diameter of the individual strand. All timing recommendations are based on medium texture hair. Fine Hair: This is the smallest diameter of hair. It is important to know that fine hair will become saturated with color easier than coarse hair. The smaller hair strand will also have a more concentrated area of color deposit and may process color darker. Medium Hair: This is typically the easiest hair texture to color. It has an average and more predictable response to color deposit as well as decolorizing. Coarse Hair: This is the largest hair diameter and it is the most difficult to color. Coarse hair has a thicker cuticle layer and a greater resistance to color deposit and decolorizing. Coarse hair will also have the tendency to have a lighter color deposit due to resistance and density of the cuticle layer. POROSITY: The porosity of the hair is also a key factor when performing a color service. Porosity refers to the hair s ability to absorb moisture. The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle. Porosity can range from resistant to porous. Resistant: Resistant hair looks and feels glassy. It has a tightly closed cuticle and it is resistant to decolorization and color penetration. Resistant hair may require a higher alkalizing agent to soften and open the cuticle. Normal: Normal hair is smooth and has shine. It has a typical response to color deposit and decolorizing. It is important to remember that hair with normal porosity may have ends that are over porous and may take color differently. Porous: Porous hair is dull in appearance. It has a raised cuticle and will easily absorb color. This condition makes the hair prone to an over deposit of color. For porous hair it is generally recommended that you use a formula that is ½ to 1 level lighter than your target level for the mid-shaft and ends of the hair and added warmth may be required. Hair Cuticle The Cuticle The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair shaft. It is a transparent protective shell typically consisting of multiple layers of overlapping scales. Its main purpose is to protect the hair shaft. The cuticle is closed on healthy hair, which helps retain moisture for elasticity and strength. A closed cuticle reflects light for shine. The cuticle must be opened to allow cosmetic pigment into the hair shaft for a permanent color change. The condition of the cuticle will affect the coloring process. Hair Cortex The Cortex The cortex is vital to hair health and contributes to approximately 85% of the hair s overall strength. It houses amino acids, proteins and hydrogen, disulfide and salt bonds. The cortex is where melanin (natural pigment) is found. All coloring and decolorizing must reach the cortex to create permanent change. Hair Medulla The Medulla The medulla is the central axis of the hair. The medulla can be continuous, fragmented or even absent. The purpose of the medulla is yet unknown but some think it can add inner reflection to the hair. The condition of the hair will play a vital part with color saturation and light responses. Understanding these conditions and how to work within them will ensure success. 6 7

5 working with color In order to create successful color formulations, you must first understand the laws of color. The laws of color are finite, which means that they will never change. Understanding how color works will give you creative control with predictability. Primary Colors Primary colors are the foundation in creating all colors. You cannot create them by mixing any other colors. secondary tertiary secondary primary primary tertiary secondary secondary Yellow is the smallest molecular weight of the primaries and is the most difficult color to remove from the cortex. It adds brightness and warmth. tertiary tertiary Red is the second heaviest in molecular weight of the primary colors and is resistant when removing from the hair. It adds richness and warmth. primary primary Blue is the largest in molecular weight and is the easiest color to remove from the hair. It will add depth and coolness. Blue is the most dominant of the primary colors. Secondary Colors Secondary colors are created by mixing equal intensities of two primary colors. primary secondary primary Tertiary Colors Green (Blue + Yellow) cool tone Orange (Yellow + Red) warm tone Tertiary colors are created by mixing equal intensities of a primary and secondary color. Violet (Blue + Red) cool tone tertiary secondary tertiary Yellow/Green (Yellow + Green) Blue/Violet (Blue + Violet) Red/Orange (Red + Orange) Blue/Green (Blue + Green) Red/Violet (Red + Violet) Yellow/Orange (Yellow + Orange) Complementary Colors sit opposite each other on the color wheel and will have a neutralizing effect on its match. When designing a color, mixing the same intensities with the same formulation will give you the same exact result every time. Example: Equal intensities of blue and red will always make violet. Example Green + Red = Neutralized Tone Yellow + Violet = Neutralized Tone Blue + Orange = Neutralized Tone 8 9

6 decolorizing MELANIN Hair gets its natural color from a pigment called melanin. The natural color of our hair depends upon the distribution, type and amount of melanin in the cortex. EUMELANIN PHEOMELANIN understanding euforacolor HOW TO READ EUFORACOLOR is violet which is the secondary tone, making up 1/ of the tonal value 6 is red which is the primary tone, making up 2/ of the tonal value 4 is the natural color level EuforaColor Level System The level system defines the level of lightness or darkness of the hair. 1 Black 2 Darkest Dark 4 Medium 5 Light 6 Dark 7 Medium 8 Light 9 Very Light 10 Lightest Hair has 2 dominant types of melanin: Eumelanin: Is dominant in hair that is level 6 and darker, Eumelanin is responsible for black and brown hair. It is also larger in size and will break down making it easier to remove from the hair when lightening. Pheomelanin: Is dominant in hair that is level 6 and lighter, pheomelanin is a smaller pigment and less abundant. It is a more stable melanin and is more difficult to remove from the hair. The amount of pheomelanin will determine the warmth of the hair. Tricosiderin: Is the least abundant and smallest melanin of the Pheomelanin family and is responsible Eufora Underlying Pigment Chart LEVEL NAME Lightest Natural Very Light Natural Light Natural Medium Natural Dark Natural Light Natural Medium Natural Dark Natural Darkest Natural Black TONE EXPOSED WHEN LIFTING Pale Yellow Yellow Orange-Yellow Orange Orange-Red Red-Orange Red Dark Red Darkest Red NOTE: Overly porous hair will require additional warm tones when color priming. for red tones. It is the most chemically stable and most difficult to break down. During the chemical process of decolorizing we disperse melanin causing it to break down and scatter inside the cortex. This will reveal the underlying pigment. It is vital to lift the hair to the correct level in order to work with the underlying pigment. Any lightening service will be affected by the underlying pigment. NEUTRALIZING BASE Pale Violet Violet Blue-Violet Blue Blue-Green Green-Blue Green Dark Green Darkest Green ENHANCING BASE Pale Gold Gold Gold-Copper Copper Copper-Red Red-Copper Red Dark Red Darkest Red Remaining pigment always contributes to the final result and the final result is always enhanced or controlled by the cosmetic color. Cosmetic color acts as an overlay to underlying pigment. 4 Natural Families Including Natural, Warm, Cool and Intense for flexible base tones and 100% grey coverage. NATURAL SERIES Natural N (.0) IDENTIFIER Natural Warm NW (.0) Natural Ash NA (.01) Intense Natural IN (.00) 9 Vibrant Tonal Families TONAL SERIES Ash A (.1) Violet V (.2) Gold G (.) Copper C (.4) Mahogany M (.5) Red R (.6) SUPER LIGHTENERS High Lift Ash High Lift Ash Violet Ultra Light Natural Ultra Light Intense Ash Ultra Light Ash Violet IDENTIFIER Coffee (Blue Violet/Gold) AG (.7) Beige GV (.2) Caramel CV (.42) 5 Super Lighteners for Blonding Perfection IDENTIFIER 10.1/10A 10.12/10AV 12.0/12N 12.11/12AA 12.12/12AV 10 11

7 euforacolor wheel the consultation A thorough guest consultation is the first necessary step in formulating and creating exceptional results for every guest. 1 Medical History note: It is important to collect medication and health information because certain medications and health conditions will affect the outcome of the color service. Make sure the client knows that conversations related to health and medications are strictly confidential. Are there any general health conditions you d like me to know about before your color service? What medications are you currently taking? Please list all allergies: Is there any concern you have about getting your hair colored today? If so please state 2 Color Conversation - Hair History Date of last color service? Brand of Color used? (very important) Were you pleased with the results? Why or Why not? How long did your color vibrancy last before noticeable fading? If there was one thing you d like to see improve in your color service what would it be? Is there chemical deposit on hair from swimming in chlorinated water? Is hair washed in hard or soft water? Traveled recently? New Client Discussion - What hair color did you have as a child? At what age did hair begin to darken? Hair Texture: Fine Normal Coarse Category of Undertone: (Check one) Dark Warm Soft Red Is hair previously colored or virgin? Starting base level Briefly discuss the condition of the hair with client and any potential challenges this may present. If hair is colored include the state of the color. Identify if doing a color correction. 4 5 Desired Outcome: Level Tone Stylist Note: Make sure to communicate very clearly with your client on their desired result and any challenges you see in obtaining that result. Use swatch for visual and give honest information they will need to know about the change requested. IE: going from blonde to red, making drastic changes, difficult color correction, etc. Let the client know exactly what to expect. Sensitivity Testing All guests should undergo a sensitivity test prior to color product application. The product may cause allergic reactions in very sensitive individuals, so best practices include a basic preliminary sensitivity test. 12 1

8 four steps to great color formulations 1 Determine the natural base level of the hair and the percentage of grey. a) Determine level of lightness or darkness of the hair by using a swatch from the Natural Series in the EuforaColor swatch book. Using a clean dry section from the back crown area, hold the swatch and hair together so that light can pass through. Assess the natural base level of the hair. If hair falls between 2 levels always formulate for the darker level. b) Adjust your formula for hair that is 25% grey and greater. Use a shade from one of the Natural Series to create the base of your formula. Use Warm Naturals (.0) or Intense Naturals (.00) to formulate for resistant grey coverage. covering grey Grey Coverage Mixing: (1:1.5) 1 part color to 1.5 parts developer Application: Apply to dry hair Timing: 5 minutes Choosing a Low Ammonia or No Ammonia base will dictate the developer needed. A Low or No Ammonia base is at least 50% or greater of that formula when deciding on a developer. FORMULATION BASE STANDARD DEVELOPER eufora is a Winner! Voted best cream color for grey coverage. 2 Determine the desired level. a) A thorough guest consultation will allow you to determine the client s expectations. When deciding the desired result, there are some options to consider when formulating on virgin hair. Are you lightening the natural hair color? Are you darkening the natural hair color? Matching the natural hair color level? Covering or blending grey? Changing the tone? Low Ammonia No Ammonia 10 Volume (%) Developer 15 Volume (4.5%) Developer Examples 8 grams of a Low Ammonia shade + 4 grams of a No Ammonia shade would need 18 grams of 10 Volume (%) Developer 8 grams of a No Ammonia shade + 4 grams of a Low Ammonia shade would need 18 grams of 15 Volume (4.5%) Developer EuforaColor provides you with four families in the Natural Series that make grey coverage simple! Natural (.0) Intense Natural (.00) Warm Natural (.0) Natural Ash (.01) 100% balanced grey coverage. 100% grey coverage. Double pigmented for resistant hair. 100% grey coverage. Adds natural warmth and assists with hard to cover grey. 100% grey coverage. Controls warmth when lifting. 4 Determine the desired tone or accent. a) The tone of the color is the dominant hue. All tones can be described as cool or warm. Always take into consideration the natural skin tone and eye color when consulting on tonal outcome. Cool tones absorb light and can appear darker. Warm tones reflect light and may appear lighter at the same level than its cool tone counterpart. Determine whether you are lifting or depositing color. a) When lifting adjust for the underlying pigment. The final hair color result is a combination of the cosmetic pigment and the underlying pigment of the natural hair. Remember the underlying pigment is always warm and it can be neutralized or enhanced based on the chosen formula. The Universal Cream Developers are formulated to create up to 1 level of lift with every 10 volume. When needing lift you must use a Low Ammonia color. You may choose an additional No Ammonia shade for tonal effect and to enhance or neutralize the underlying pigment. (See EuforaColor Universal Cream Developer section) Follow this checklist for easy Grey Coverage. 1. Grey Coverage (25% to 50% grey) Use 25% or greater of a Natural family shade (.0,.01,.0) as your base formula. Formulate the other half for desired tone. 2. Grey Coverage (over 50% grey) Use 50% or greater of a Natural family shade (.0,.01,.0) as your base formula. Formulate the other half for desired tone. Add required warmth for complete coverage.. Grey Coverage (over 70% grey) In order to match your desired tone, you must drop your base formula by one level. Example: If your target level is 6, then use a Natural Series at a level 5 as part of your base formula. Use 50% or greater of a Natural family shade (.0,.01,.0) as your base formula. Add remaining formula at target level 6 and add required warmth for complete coverage. Resistant Grey Solutions: Depending on hair type and desired end results you may use one or several of the following options for resistant grey coverage. a. Use an Intense Natural (.00) as your base. This series contains double pigment for resistant grey and is formulated ½ shade darker than the Natural Series (.0). Remember to always use 20 Volume Developer when using the Intense Natural Series. b. Use a 1:1 mixing ratio. (The Low Ammonia series can only be mixed at a 1:1 ratio). c. Increase timing to 45 minutes. Grey blending can be accomplished by using 7 or 10 Volume Developer with a mixing ratio of 1:2; Depending on the texture of hair and the concentration of blending desired. d. Formulate 1 level darker than desired outcome. e. Pre-softening - Use a Warm Natural (.0) shade one level lighter than desired result and apply to the area (do not use developer). Let process for 15 minutes and then simply wipe off the formula. Apply the desired formula directly over the previous application area and process as needed

9 Mixing Ratio Guidelines Formulation Guidelines developers Color in Grams 1 part Developer In Grams 1.5 parts Total Grams Color in Grams 1 part Developer In Grams 1.5 parts Total Grams Low Ammonia and No Ammonia Formulations Volume Mixing Ratio Timing Results Color Levels and Timing are integral parts of the successful color formulation and end results. Understanding the relationship between hair color (what is in the tube), the developer function and timing is critical to your success as a stylist. It is important to understand the correlation between lift and deposit and choosing the right developer for the service. It is also important that you understand what function is taking place in the timing process, whether lift or deposit. The EuforaColor Universal Cream Developers are designed to be precise in performance with exceptional versatility. With hair integrity in mind, buffering fatty acids and emollients work to support hair condition, softness and shine. The developers are calibrated to be effective by the timing recommendations. It is crucial to follow precise standard timing for each service Demi-permanent Glossing or Toning 7 (2.1%) Volume (1:2) Demi-permanent 10 (%) Volume (1:2) Permanent 10 (%) Volume (1:1.5) Permanent 15 (4.5%) Volume (1:1.5) Permanent 20 (6%) Volume (1:1.5) Up to 20 minutes Up to 5 minutes 25 5 minutes 5 minutes 5-40 minutes Sheer deposit only Deposit only Deposit. Up to 1 level of lift with Low Ammonia Deposit. Up to levels of lift with Low Ammonia Deposit. Up to 2 levels of lift with Low Ammonia Permanent 0 (9%) Volume (1:1.5) minutes Deposit. Up to levels of lift with Low Ammonia Permanent 40 (12%) Volume (1:1.5) minutes Deposit. Up to 4 levels of lift with Low Ammonia EuforaColor Clean Skin The gentle, convenient and quick solution for removing unwanted color stains from skin. Non-irritating aloe infused Biodegradable protecting our environment Convenient, no-mess delivery no dripping or spilling Efficient & economically sized cleanse multiple areas of the skin with just one wipe 16 17

10 lightening ALOELITE LEAVES ALL OTHER POWDER LIGHTENERS IN THE DUST General Aloelite Usage Guidelines MIXING EXAMPLES 1 pod AloeLite + 20g /.7 Oz of developer 1 pod is for partial lightening (Pod size is 10g/.5oz) The pre-portioned pods eliminate mixing mistakes, over usage and waste. The non-swelling formula may be used on or off scalp, and is perfect for double process services, highlighting, balyage and color corrections. Individual pods contain Aloe for nourishment, hydration and guarantee a fresh application every time. Steady lifting power enables you to gauge the right amount of lift with predictability while protecting the integrity of the hair. Provides up to 7 levels of immediate and controlled lift. Blue formula helps deliver truer blonde tones. The convenient POWDER SAVER, provided free with AloeLite, allows you to store any remaining loose powder 2 pods AloeLite + 40g / 1.4 Oz of developer 2 pods are for half head lightening pods AloeLite + 60g / 2.1 Oz of developer pods are for full head lightening The science of blonding with AloeLite 1 2 Step by Step Place AloeLite pod(s) into a nonmetallic mixing bowl. Add desired EuforaColor developer at a 1:2 mixing ratio. Mix vigorously with a brush or whisk. The pod will dissolve into the mixture*. *NOTE: The pod material has moisturizing and conditioning properties, and may break down slowly, particularly in colder temperatures. If you notice any residual pod material, you can simply use it in your application or remove it with the tail of the brush and discard. Directions 7 Vol Vol. for on-scalp applications 7 Vol Vol. for off-scalp applications Heat is not recommended Uses On-scalp double process services Foil/highlights Color corrections Painting / Balayage Getting started: Place your pod(s) into a non-metallic mixing bowl. Add your chosen developer at a 1:2 mixing ratio. Mix the formula until the soluble pod dissolves into the solution. Proceed with your application onto dry hair. (It is normal for a small amount of the pod to dissolve slower during the initial mix. You may simply push this piece to the side or use it in your application. It will not affect the performance.) It is recommended that you check the hair every 5 to 10 minutes during the lightening process. Total process time should not exceed 50 minutes. After reaching desired result, rinse well. Shampoo thoroughly and condition with the appropriate Eufora regimen

11 COLOR ELIXIR with NAOPLEX Technology COLOR ELIXIR is simple to use! PROFESSIONAL COLOR ADDITIVE NO formula adjustments NO processing time adjustments Why COLOR ELIXIR It is important to understand the key components of the chemical reaction that takes place during the color service. 1. Chemical services are OXIDATIVE REACTIONS 2. Oxidative Reactions create FREE RADICALS. Free Radicals cause DAMAGE and broken disulfide bonds FACT: Significant damage occurs within 1 minute of contact with the hair during a chemical service. The longer free radicals have to attack, the more damage occurs. Color Elixir with Naoplex Technology is formulated to impact the oxidative process and to prevent damage caused by free radicals. How Does It Work? Targets free radicals and prevents them from attacking or damaging the hair during chemical services stopping damage before it occurs. Improves strength and elasticity Slows down the oxidative process allowing for better color penetration without altering normal timing Restores and repairs hair structure due to residual damage SAFE for use on all hair types Instrucion for use of Professional Additive Step 1 in chemical services: Follow the simple guidelines in the charts below for using Professional Additive (Step 1) in color or lightening services. Always add the desired amount of Professional Additive to your formula AFTER the color or lightener and developer have been mixed together. Lightening Services ALOELITE PODS TOTAL MIXTURE (Lightner + Developer) PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE WITH VOLUME DEVELOPER: 7, 10, 15, AND 20 PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE WITH VOLUME DEVELOPER: 0 AND 40 1 POD 0 GRAMS 1 PUMP 2 PUMPS 2 PODS 60 GRAMS 2 PUMPS 4 PUMPS PODS 90 GRAMS PUMPS 6 PUMPS 4 PODS 120 GRAMS 4 PUMPS 8 PUMPS 5 PODS 150 GRAMS 5 PUMPS 10 PUMPS Color Services HEALTHIER, SOFTER MORE VIBRANT HAIR EUFORACOLOR TOTAL MIXTURE (Color + Developer) 0 GRAMS 60 GRAMS 90 GRAMS 120 GRAMS 150 GRAMS PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE (All Developers) 1 PUMP 2 PUMPS PUMPS 4 PUMPS 5 PUMPS Instrucion for use of Professional Sealer Step 2 in chemical services: After any chemical service, shampoo hair and rinse thoroughly Apply 5 pumps of Professional Sealer (Step 2) to the hair Work Professional Sealer completely through the hair from root to ends Allow to penetrate for 7 10 minutes, with or without heat Rinse thoroughly Instrucion for use of COLOR ELIXIR as a stand alone Restorative Treatment: Shampoo hair and rinse thoroughly Combine appropriate amount of Step 1 and Step 2 together in hands at a 1:2 ratio (1 pump of Professional Additive to every 2 pumps Professional Sealer). Total amount of product will depend on texture and ength of each client s hair. Work the product completely through the hair from root to ends Allow to penetrate for 7-10 minutes Rinse thoroughly 20 21

12 general usage and guidelines Permanent Coverage Mixing: (1:1.5) 1 part color to 1.5 parts developer Application: Apply to dry hair Developer: 10 Volume (%) for Low Ammonia or 15 Volume (4.5%) for No Ammonia Timing: 5 minutes If hair has heavy build up due to product or natural oil it is recommended that the hair is shampooed before the color service. Eufora s Urgent Repair Shampoo is recommended. Do not condition. No Ammonia color on its own, may be used for permanent coverage, including permanent grey coverage when lift is NOT required. Use appropriate developer with mixing ratio 1:1.5 Hair with a greater porosity should be approached with caution. Eufora Fortifi Strengthening Spray is a great tool to prep this canvas to ensure that the color will saturate evenly. Urgent Repair Treatment may also be used to pre-treat hair prior to a color service. When formulating EuforaColor you must always use the Low Ammonia Series when needing to lift one level or more and you have the option to add a No Ammonia color to create tone. Standard Application Procedures Demi Permanent Mixing: (1:2) 1 part color to 2 parts developer Application: Apply to clean, damp, towel dried hair Developer: 10 Volume (%) Timing: Up to 0 minutes Toning Mixing: (1:2) 1 part color to 2 parts developer Application: Apply to clean, damp, towel dried hair Developer: 7 Volume (2.1%) or 10 Volume (%) Timing: Up to 20 minutes Color Glossing Mixing: (1:2) 1 part color to 2 parts developer Application: Apply to clean, damp, towel dried hair Developer: 7 Volume (2.1%) or 10 Volume (%) Timing: Up to 20 minutes For optimal results use No Ammonia color for demi permanent, toning and color glossing services. When coloring natural/virgin hair it is important to use a precise method of application. The heat from the scalp will process the root area more quickly than the ends. Therefore use the Virgin Application to avoid hot roots and an uneven color result. Super Lighteners Mixing: (1:2) 1 part color to 2 parts developer Application: Apply to dry virgin hair Timing: 45 minutes Developer: 0 Volume (9%) Three levels of steady and controlled lift. Developer: 40 Volume (12%) Four levels of steady andcontrolled lift. The Super Lightener Series is a Low Ammonia, permanent cream color that provides high lift lightening while depositing pigment for toning in one single process. It is possible to lift up to 5 levels while controlling tone to minimize warmth with superior control. The Super Lightener Series is for areas of the hair that do not contain cosmetic color pigment. For control and optimal results, use the Super Lightener Series on a natural level 7 and lighter. For resistant hair add 25% of Low Ammonia Clear Booster Lift to your formula for maximizing lift. Not recommended for grey coverage. For coarse and resistant hair 0 Volume will effectively lighten up to 50 minutes and 40 Volume will effectively lighten up to 60 minutes. Creative Pigments and Intensifiers Intensifiers are a combination of oxidative and direct dyes. Intensifiers are used to amp up your final result. Example: The Copper Intensifier provides an adjustable intensity of warmth to any red, gold or copper formulation. Example: The Violet Intensifier adds depth and intense vibrancy to the red series. Creative Pigments are an oxidative artistic color tool to provide customized formulas to enhance or neutralize specific tones. Creative Pigments offer tremendous control Clear Booster Lift and Clear Shine/Dilute are useful artistic tools to customize your color results. Clear Booster Lift: You may add Clear Booster Lift to your formula to adjust lightness within the chosen level or to provide lift without tonal deposit. Mix 25% of your color formula with Clear Booster Lift to 1.5 parts developer and increase your lift by ½ level. For coarse and resistant hair, mix 50% Clear Booster Lift with your Super Lightener formula to 2 parts developer and achieve 5 addintional levels of lift. Clear Shine/Dilute: Clear Shine/Dilute will diffuse your color formula, resulting in up to one shade lighter. It is also a great permanent shine enhancer for end results. Mix 25% - 50% of your color formula with Clear Shine/Dilute to 1.5 parts developer and adjust your color level to tone down unwanted sharpness. Mix 50% of your color formula with Clear Shine/Dilute to 2 parts 7 Volume to create a translucent glossing effect. Process up to 20 minutes. Mix 1 part Clear Shine/Dilute to 2 parts 7 Volume for a radiant shine gloss. Process for up to 20 minutes. It is crucial to remember that Creative Pigments and Intensifiers are artistic tools that are based on professional expertise and judgment. and therefore ONLY a small amount should be added to the formula. A little goes a long way with this artistic tool. Example: For deep rich reds with an abundance of blue-red tone, add Purple Creative Pigment to minimize the yellow allowing the red pigments to be dominant. The results are amazing. Example: For a brighter red-orange color, add Yellow Creative Pigment to minimize any violet in the red color. This allows the yellow and indirectly the orange to become dominant. Virgin Application 1. Start with dry hair and section into 4 partings. 2. Apply the color starting ½ inch off the scalp and down the mid-shaft, through to the ends.. Process for 10 to 15 minutes depending on developer. 4. Remix a new color formulation and apply from the root area to the previous application area. 5. Process for an additional 25-0 minutes. 6. Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Shampoo and condition with the appropriate Eufora regimen. Retouch Application 1. Start with dry hair and section into 4 partings. 2. Apply color to the new growth area.. Let process. 4. Rinse thoroughly. Shampoo and condition with the appropriate Eufora regimen. End Formulations 1. When refreshing the ends of the hair, choose a formula one level lighter than the formula for the root area. 2. You may also mix your formula with a 7 or 10 Volume Developer at a 1:2 mixing ratio for a translucent effect. Eufora Color Priming Chart LEVEL NAME Lightest Natural Very Light Natural Light Natural Medium Natural Dark Natural Light Natural Medium Natural Dark Natural Darkest Natural Black TONE EXPOSED WHEN LIFTING NEUTRALIZING BASE ENHANCING BASE Pale Yellow Pale Violet Pale Gold Yellow Violet Gold COLOR PRIMING (POROUS) Based on 25g of Color No Ammonia 10. Orange-Yellow Blue-Violet Gold-Copper No Ammonia 9.* Orange Blue Copper Orange-Red Blue-Green Copper-Red Red-Orange Green-Blue Red-Copper Red Green Red Dark Red Dark Green Dark Red Darkest Red Darkest Green Darkest Red No Ammonia 7.* + 7.4* No Ammonia No Ammonia * + 5.6* COLOR PRIMING (REDS) NA = No Ammonia NA 8. + NA 8.4 No Ammonia No Ammonia No Ammonia NA 7.44 and/or NA 7.66 NA 6.4 and/or NA 6.6 NA 4.4 and/or NA 4.6 NA 4.4 and/or NA 4.6 When Color Priming a guest more than 2 shades darker, layer the missing pigments on the hair before proceeding with the final color. 22 2

13 Eufora is committed to guiding stylists and salon owners toward success as artists and as business people. Eufora education extends far beyond basic product knowledge, tips and techniques. It features a robust curriculum focusing on professional advancement and what is most important to you success! The diversity and sheer number of Eufora training programs, whether offered at The Academy, on location or in-salon, ensures that our partners have constant access to a well-rounded portfolio of high caliber technical, creative and business instruction. The Eufora reputation for exceptional education is unparalleled. For a complete listing of education opportunities please visit Eufora on line at Rest assured we will keep you informed, inspired and at the top of your game! Eufora International eufora For technical support, product usage and formulation questions, call our toll-free hotline eufora (throughout the U.S. and Canada). Or send inquiries to euforacolor@eufora.net DEC/Colorsalonmanual/0004