VERTICAL HAIR COLOUR CREME 'A NEW ERA IN HAIR COLOURING'

Transcription

1 m: Tehnical manual

2 M: has made a quantum leap in hair colour formulation by developing our unique M: Technology. All permanent hair colour first removes colour (lift action) before depositing. M: is unique in the way it accelerates this colour removal from the hair whilst leaving the hair in superb condition. M: is a Free Radical Controller / Oxygen Balancer which has the ability to capture oxygen and transport it to the site where it is required e.g. the Cortex of the hair. M: transports the oxygen very quickly to the cortex and once there, M: is triggered by protein (MELANIN) to release its cargo of oxygen which then begins to remove the colour from the cortex. The oxygen outside the hair remains encapsulated and therefore is unable to attack the cuticle. As the cuticular protein does not have the same affinity with the M:, the oxygen remains imprisoned for longer than the lifting process takes to complete. Because of this unique ability, the cuticle is unscarred and the lightening process is accelerated. Free Radicals are generated from the oxygen. They attach themselves to the protein molecules and once there they break the molecular bond of the protein. This protein is then de-stabilised and begins to break down (this process could be called "ageing"). This attack on the protein occurs whenever bleaching or oxidising colouring products are being used. M: works by controlling the release of free radicals to help eliminate hair and skin damage. WITHOUT M: Oxygen produced by bleaching agents (Free Radicals) attack the hair's protein on the cuticle and in the cortex. = SLOW LIFT, POSSIBLE CUTICLE / CORTEX / SKIN DAMAGE WITH M: M: system encapsulates oxygen (controlling the production of Free Radicals) and releases it only when the M: comes into contact with the Melanin within the cortex. = RAPID HIGH LIFT AND NO CUTICLE / CORTEX / SKIN DAMAGE VERTICAL HAIR COLOUR CREME 'A NEW ERA IN HAIR COLOURING' VERTICAL Permanent Hair Colour Creme is marketed by the International Hair Cosmetics group of companies with bases in the EU. The group has developed markets for its products in many countries worldwide including Europe, Africa, and Asia. Building on many year's technical knowledge and understanding of hair colourants, International Hair Cosmetics has developed VERTICAL to fulfil the most critical demands of salon professionals both now and in the future. VERTICAL has been developed after painstaking research and co-operation between hairdressing technicians and chemists to create the most advanced product available. The exceptionally refined formula with it's low ammonia content and emulsified creme base penetrates deep into the hair's cortex producing up to 100% coverage of white hair without damaging its structure. The wide range of natural and fashion shades give shine and vibrance to the hair whilst remaining resistant to colour change or fading. VERTICAL is your very own artist's palette - colour with confidence! THE PROPERTIES OF PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR The dyes used in hair colour are called INTERMEDIATES. They are molecular groups that link together when they are in contact with oxygen. This produces long chain complex colour molecules. The intermediates are divided into exact colour bases which form the desired colour. The quantities of intermediates used determine the level a colour will be. Intermediates have weight, and the more intermediate dyes in a colour the darker it will be. Example: Black haircolour has between 50 to 75 times more intermediate dyes than a light blonde shade. This means that the lightness or darkness of a colour is determined by the amount of colour weight. AMMONIA OR AMMONIA SUBSTITUTE Ammonia or a substitute is used to open the hair cuticle and allow the pigment to penetrate. The higher the amount of ammonia or substitutes, the more swelling will occur. The substance which holds everything together is called the base. The two common classifications of bases are cream and liquid, both of which can be made in many ways. The base must have the ability to penetrate and give the product the consistency to 'stay put'. Hydrogen Peroxide is added to the colour immediately before use, activating the colour. The intermediates are activated by the oxygen in the TECHNICAL MANUAL 1

3 peroxide and a process called degeneration occurs. Both Hydrogen (air) and Nitrogen (ammonia) are amongst the lightest gases on earth. When these two gases meet they degenerate quickly and escape causing a lifting action. Even the darkest colour (black) goes through a lifting action before depositing new pigment. The degeneration of the two gases opens the cuticle of the hair to cause porosity. This process takes up to 30 minutes depending on the shade. After that, the gases dissipate and the deposit of colour begins to dominate. If there was no lifting action, permanent colour would wash out of hair and would be no more effective than a temporary rinse. Hair colour cannot lift and deposit at exactly the same time. Lift action takes place first and heat accelerates this action. Therefore colour in the bowl or bottle does not oxidise as quickly as the colour on a warm scalp. Even though most hair colour loses its ability to lift during the first 30 minutes of processing, it retains its ability to deposit for longer. VERTICAL THE FUTURE OF HAIR COLOUR 1. FORMULATED FOR MAXIMUM COVERAGE OF WHITE HAIR The extraordinary covering power of VERTICAL is achieved due to the specially formulated Emulsion Base - The VERTICAL base does not contain bees wax or saponified fatty alcohols found in the base of conventional hair colour. The special VERTICAL base formulation containing moisturisers and oils to protect the vital internal structure of the hair, penetrates deep into the cortex taking with it the colour molecules. This ensures 100% coverage of white hair where required plus deep, rich and lasting natural colour results. Buffering agents in the base counter the negative effects of alkalinity, reduce and control the ph, whilst helping to close the cuticle leaving the hair shining with natural colour. 2. M: TECHNOLOGY ALLOWS FAST PROCESSING - 25 MINUTES WITH GENTLE HEAT M: is unique in the way it accelerates the colouring process by transporting oxygen deep into the cortex of the hair. The lift action is accelerated and colour deposit is more effective. 3. RESISTANCE TO FADE AND SHADE STABILITY Whether natural or fashion colours are required, it is important they do not change depth or tone between applications. VERTICAL colour creme is formulated to lift, and then deposit exactly the right balance of intermediate colours deep into the cortex. This perfect balance of base and modifying intermediates gives VERTICAL the ability to colour every hair evenly from root to tip without unwanted ash (green) or warm (red) tones. One of the main causes of changes in colour is the exposure to air and light. Oxygen in the hair creates creeping oxidation. Fade also occurs because light contains ultra violet radiation which increase fade by 'bleaching' the colour out of the hair. VERTICAL contains UV filters designed to screen out harmful rays plus special buffers to kill creeping oxidation and aid longer lasting colour results. 4. REDUCING ph The ph of VERTICAL formulation reduces slowly during the colour process. This action helps to close the cuticle locking in the colour and giving natural shine and lustre. 5. LIFTING ACTION A permanent hair colour must have good lifting power in order for the colour result to be even: Permanent hair colour first lifts some of the natural pigment before depositing new colour. (Even black must first lift hair a tone before depositing its colour). At the same time the lifting power should not be too great or changes in the colour balance will occur. VERTICAL HAS THE RIGHT BALANCE. VERTICAL will lift higher with 20 Volume (6%) than many of its competitors will with 30 Volume (9%). The unique emulsion base ensures deep deposit of colour into the cortex. This means that when little or no lift is required or coverage is the priority 10 Volume (3%) should be used. 6. LESS RISK OF SCALP SENSITIVITY The aggressiveness of conventional hair colour has almost been eliminated in VERTICAL colour because: VERTICAL contains special buffering agents to reduce the alkalinity and control the ph. VERTICAL contains oil based conditioners to protect hair structure during the colouring process. The ph of VERTICAL decreases slowly during colour treatment which allows the cuticle to start to close, helping to lock in colour, reduce fade and improve natural shine and texture. The application of a low ph shampoo and acidic after rinse will improve this action. 7. SIMPLICITY OF MIX AND APPLICATION VERTICAL mixes instantly to a smooth pearly creme. The mix has been improved to give ease of application from a bowl or applicator. VERTICAL does not require arduous mixing to remove lumps like other colour brands; Both colour creme and developer OxyDye will blend together immediately. When mixed, VERTICAL has the right balance between density (to allow the product to stay where it is needed on the hair) and fluidity (to allow the product to spread easily). The correct amount of colour is easily and economically applied to the hair without dripping. Always ensure you measure the correct quantities (or weigh using the M: Electronic Balance) of colour and developer OxyDye for perfect mixing. 8. ECONOMY IN USE VERTICAL has the ability to absorb a considerable amount of developer OxyDye. 100g of creme must be mixed with 100g of oxygen. - Total mix 200ml / 200g. High Lift Special Blonde Mix 100g colour creme to 200g 30 Volume (9%) or 40 Volume (12%) oxygen. - Total mix 300ml / 300g. 9. OUR OBJECTIVE - YOUR SAFETY International Hair Cosmetics' goal was to re-formulate a 2nd generation colour that was perfect in every respect and especially safe during use. With VERTICAL this goal has been achieved. 10. VERTICAL COLOUR CREME has been formulated after input from hairdressers world-wide; The aim being to create a colour meeting the needs of today's demanding hairdressing professional. VERTICAL is produced by professionals for professionals and their clients. TECHNICAL MANUAL 2

4 VERTICAL SHADE CHART The VERTICAL Shade Chart has been designed to help the colourist identify the depth and tone of each colour, or mix of colours, in the VERTICAL range. The chart layout is as follows: The vertical column headed DEPTH OF SHADE on the extreme left of the chart indicates the depth of shades, their I.C.C. number and the names and descriptions of the colours. The higher the number the lighter the colour, the lower the number the darker the colour. The columns from left to right of the shade chart indicates the descriptions and names with the I.C.C. tonal numbers for the primary and secondary tones, indicated at the top of each column. This important information allows the colourist to: Decide the depth of shade and see at a glance the selection of tones available at that particular depth. Pick a tone, or combination of tones, and by reading the column downwards, select the required depth of the chosen colour. VERTICAL NUMBERING SYSTEM The VERTICAL numbering system follows the International Colour Code (I.C.C.) allowing the operator to identify each colour, depth & tone. In the I.C.C. the number before the point indicates the depth (how light or dark). The number after the point indicates the predominant tone that is added to the shade. The second number indicates the secondary tone which subdues or enhances the predominant tone. VERTICAL DEPTHS VERTICAL TONES 12 Very Light Extrablonde 0 Natural 10 Extra Light Blonde 00 Natural Plus 9 Very Light Blonde 16 Violet Ash 8 Light Blonde 3 Golden 7 Medium Blonde 45 Red/Mahogany 6 Dark Blonde 71 Brown/Ash 5 Light Brown 73 Brown/Gold 4 Medium Brown 75 Blue/Brown/Mahogany 3 Dark Brown 77 Natural 2 Black 8 Pearl Examples: 6/73 Base 6 + Brown 7 + Gold 3 = Dark Golden Chestnut Gold Base 10 + Ash 1 + Violet 6 = Ash Light Blonde CLIENT CONSULTATION & COLOUR SELECTION - Examine hair condition, porosity and natural colour. - Determine if the hair has had any other chemical services. - Choose with the client the depth and tone of the colour required. - Judge the percentage of white hair (see shade guide use section below to select shade) - Evaluate the lifting power of the chosen colour (shade) and developer OxyDye. - Choose the correct developer OxyDye strength. - Choose the correct development time. IMPORTANT NOTE - SHADE GUIDE USE The VERTICAL shade guide is calibrated for 70% white hair. This means the following: A. If the percentage of white hair is lower than 70%, it is advisable to select one shade lighter than the desired shade. B. Where there is approximately 70% white hair, select the same shade you want to achieve. C. Where the percentage of white hair is greater than 70%, select one shade darker than the desired shade. D. Choose the correct strength of M: Developer OxyDye. E. Use the Developer OxyDye lift power information below to make the choice. EXTRA COVERAGE WITH NATURAL ASH SHADES (1) These special shades were developed to make the covering of white hair easy and simple. The 1 (Natural Ash) shades are a combination of Natural and Ash (Matt) tones. They are slightly greyer than conventional Natural (.0) tones. When a high percentage of white or resistant white hair is present, this combination helps to increase the covering capability whilst retaining the tone of the chosen shade. In the past, colourists have mixed quantities of natural tones with other shades in order to guarantee coverage of white hair. This practice meant that if the target shade was a cool or ash shade (eg: Light Ash Blonde) the addition of Natural added warmth to the colour, thereby losing the desired cool ash shade. Natural Ash 1 tones can be added to any shade including Red or Coppers in concentrations of up to 25% to guarantee coverage of white hair whilst retaining the desired tone. These 1 shades may be used alone for a Natural-Ash result if required. TECHNICAL MANUAL 3

5 LIFTING POWER OF VERTICAL CREME The lifting power of VERTICAL is superb. Lift action is built into the creme base to avoid the use of high volumes of developer OxyDye. Using 20 Volume (6%) M: Developer OxyDye, the lift power is as follows: Using 20vol FROM BLACK 1.0 TO VERY DARK BROWN 2.0 FROM DARK BROWN 3.0 TO MEDIUM BROWN 4.0 FROM LIGHT BROWN 5.0 TO DARK BLONDE 6.0 FROM MEDIUM BLONDE 7.0 TO VERY LIGHT BLONDE 9.0 Half of One Shade 1 Shade 1 to 2 Shades 2 or 3 Shades Using 30vol 1 to 1 1 /2 shades 1 1 /2 to 2 shades 1 1 /2 to 3 shades 2 1 /2 or 4 shades LIFTING POWER OF M: DEVELOPER OXYDYE OxyDye M: DEVELOPER OXYDYE is a highly stable solution in 4 strengths. Using M: DEVELOPER OXYDYE ensures easy mixing and more usable colour in the bowl. Select the correct strength of M: oxidising Developer OxyDye. (see following chart) M: has incredible lifting power built into the colour creme. For most colour work 20 Volume (6%) will give sufficient lift. COVERING RESISTANT HAIR, INCREASING COLOUR DEPTH / DARKENING & INTENSITY WHEN REQUIRED (Reduced reflect) 10 VOLUME (3%) ph 2.95 NORMAL COLOURING REFLECTS 20 VOLUME (6%) ph 2.9 Where 1 extra shade of LIFT is required 30 VOLUME (9%) ph 2.85 Up to 4 or 5 SHADES of EXTRA LIFT with 12% Special Blonde Series VOLUME (12%) ph 2.8 The level of lift achieved varies depending on the base colour. MIXING VERTICAL colour creme is prepared by mixing the contents of one 100g tube with 200g of M: Developer OxyDye. By mixing / weighing the product (in a non-metallic bowl), you will obtain 250ml/250g of colour creme which is sufficient to colour even the longest hair. To ensure perfect results, M: recommend that product & developer OxyDye be weighed using our unique electronic balance. Using the electronic balance ensures perfect results. CORRECT MIX QUANTITIES 100g colour 100g developer OxyDye CORRECT MIX QUANTITY OF DEVELOPER OXYDYE For SPECIAL BLONDE 12 SERIES mix 100ml /HOLD - LESS RESULT Coverage 100%, Tone Natural or Vibrant RESULT Shiny glossy hair TECHNICAL MANUAL 4

6 SKIN TEST APPLICATION M: recommend a skin sensitivity test prior to the application of oxidising colour products (those mixed with developer OxyDye) within 24 hours of a colour application. A simple test on the inside of the elbow or behind the ear is advisable before using any colour product. Method Mix in a non-metallic bowl a small quantity of the colour to be used and apply to the chosen area, cover with a patch and leave for 24 hours. If any irritation, burning, etc should occur the test should be washed off immediately, and a solution of calamine applied. Colour should not be used until the results of the skin test is negative (no irritation). It is advisable to instruct the client to advise the colourist of the outcome of the test whether positive or negative. APPLICATION VERTICAL must be applied by depositing the right quantity onto the hair. Too little product will mean poor coverage, insufficient lift and low colour deposit resulting in fade. By depositing the right quantity, the product will penetrate the hairshaft, reaching the keratin chains and producing the lifting and deposit action. Applications can be made on dry or prewashed and towel dried hair. Some resistant white hair will accept colour better if the hair is prewashed and towel dried. This method is also advisable when the hair is resistant to colour. Divide hair into 4 sections: from centre of forehead to nape of the neck and from ear to ear. Start from area where the percentage of white hair is highest. Apply product to thin sections taking care not to overlap previously coloured hair. VERTICAL is a new generation emulsion based colour and will penetrate deep into the hairs cortex. When application is completed, the product must be clearly visible on the hair. Insufficient application of product could result in poor lift and colour deposit. "In order to achieve maximum lift, using High Lift Blondes take fine sections of hair. It is advisable to apply a generous amount of colour to the hair, and use very fine sections." FIRST TIME APLICATION TO DARKEN LEVELS 1-10 Apply to mid lengths and ends, avoiding the root area and process for 5 minutes (No Heat). Apply to the root area and process for a further 40 minutes - no heat. OR 20 minutes - gentle heat. Just before the end of the processing time emulsify to remove any stains, rinse until the water runs clear, shampoo and condition with RedCat Colour Shampoo and Conditioner. Total Process Time: 45 minutes - no heat OR 25 minutes - gentle heat TECHNICAL MANUAL 5

7 FIRST TIME APLICATION TO LIGHTEN (LENGTHS UP TO 25cm) This method of application should be used with any shade where the objective is to lighten the natural colour. Apply to the mid lengths and ends, leaving 3 to 4 cm at the root untouched. Process for 20 minutes - no heat OR Process for 5 minutes - gentle heat Apply the remaining product to the roots and process for a further 25 minutes without heat OR 20 minutes with gentle heat. Total process time 45 minutes - no heat Total process time 25 minutes - gentle heat (For maximum coverage of white hair, maximum depth of tone or vibrancy and minimum fade, total processing time must be used). See Special Blonde application method for longer than 25cm Before rinsing hair, massage lightly (emulsify) to remove colour residuals on skin. Rinse colour out after emulsifying until water runs clear,shampoo and condition with RedCat Colour Shampoo and Conditioner. RETOUCH APPLICATION "Mix enough product for the whole application. DO NOT re-mix new product for the ends Retouch application: (Where little or no fade is present) On normal hair apply to the roots only. Process for 40 minutes without heat or 25 minutes with gentle heat. Dampen the hair with a water spray and using the same mix (mix enough product at the outset to allow this, do not mix fresh colour) apply along the lengths and ends for a further 5 minutes without heat. Total processing time 45 minutes - no heat Total processing time 25 minutes - gentle heat Timings dependent on depth of shade and resistance of the hair. For maximum coverage of white hair, maximum depth of tone or vibrancy and minimum fade, 45 / 50 minutes - no heat OR 25 minutes - gentle heat, total processing should always be used. VERTICAL PROCESSING TIME When using any permanent hair colour it is vitally important to observe the correct processing time. This will ensure the best possible colour result. The first 30 minutes - no heat / 15 minutes - gentle heat, of a colour development: The predominant action of the product is LIFT. During period the colour is slowly developing but cannot mature until the lift action has subsided. If the colour is removed during this period the colour could fade rapidly or give incorrect tones. The Final 15 minutes - no heat / 10 minutes - gentle heat: During this period colour deposit action becomes predominant, the colour matures and develops the correct tones. The full processing time ensures resistance to fade, true depth of tone, total coverage of white hair and shine. REDUCING THE COLOUR DEPOSIT TIME BY 5 MINUTES CAN ACTUALLY REDUCE THE COLOUR DEPOSIT BY 33% TECHNICAL MANUAL 6

8 CORRECT PROCESSING TIME 45 MINUTES - no heat / 25 MINUTES - gentle heat LIFT / COVERAGE HOLD BRIGHTNESS TONE No Heat 60 Gentle Heat 60 CORRECT PROCESSING TIME HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDES 55 MINS - no heat HIGH LIFT SPECIAL BLONDES 30 MINS - gentle heat MAXIMUM LIFT MAXIMUM COLOUR DEPOSIT (TONE) INCORRECT / LOWER PROCESSING TIME POOR COVERAGE / LIFT POOR HOLD (FADE) PALE SHADES POOR TONE USEFUL INFORMATION WHEN COLOURING 1. Always start with the whitest hair when covering white hair. 2. When refreshing the mid-lengths and ends during a retouch, dampen the hair with a water spray before applying the colour to the ends of the hair. 3. To reduce possible staining when using dark or intense colours, apply barrier cream thinly to the hairline and ears. DO NOT APPLY barrier cream onto the hair, it may prevent the colour developing in that area. PLEASE NOTE: When using an accelerator (gentle heat) developing time can be reduced. ie LIFTING PERIOD - normally 30 minutes - can be reduced by half to: COLOUR DEPOSIT - 15 minutes can be reduced by 1/3 to: 15 minutes 10 minutes TOTAL DEVELOPMENT TIME = 25 mins (30 mins Special Blonde 12. Series) EMULSIFY & RINSE When dark or rich colours are used, it is advisable to take extra care when removing the colour creme. This ensures the complete elimination of skin staining. A few minutes before the end of processing time massage the areas of skin where staining may occur by loosening the colour. Do this before adding water so that staining can be removed easily. When staining has started to lift, add water, lightly massage to emulsify further and rinse until water runs clear. VERTICAL PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR HIGH LIFT SPECIAL BLONDE 12. SERIES The VERTICAL High Lift Special Blonde 12. Series: is a range of delicately toned pale blonde shades, ensuring very effective high lift performance. Suitable to obtain up to 4 / 5 shades of lift. They can be used to produce special fashion effects. The exclusive formulation ensures even results, long lasting colour and a silky smooth finish to the hair. HIGH LIFT SPECIAL BLONDES: 12/21 Ultra Light Ash Blonde 12/22 Special Blonde Matt Intensive 12/61 Special Blonde Violet Ash 12/81 Special Blonde Pearl Ash 12/89 Special Blonde Pearl Cendre MIXING 12 SERIES: Mix VERTICAL High Lift Colour Creme carefully in a non-metallic bowl or applicator with M: Developer 30 Volume (9%) or 40 Volume (12%) in the proportion 1 to 2, eg 100g of VERTICAL HIGH LIFT SPECIAL BLONDE Colour Creme + 200g of M: OXYDYE DEVELOPER. TECHNICAL MANUAL 7

9 VIRGIN HEAD APPLICATION: 12. SERIES Apply product to the lengths and ends of dry unwashed hair leaving approx 3-4 cm of the root hair untouched. Wait until the desired lift is reached (approx 20 mins - no heat or 10 mins - gentle heat), then apply colour to the roots. Develop until the desired lift is reached (35 mins - no heat or 20 mins - gentle heat). Total processing time 55 mins - No heat. OR Total processing time 30 mins - Gentle heat. HAIR LONGER THAN 25cm: If the hair is very long, apply colour first to the ends (5-6 cm). Develop for approx 20 minutes (no heat) or 5 minutes (gentle heat). Remix fresh colour and then apply to the mid lengths for approx 20 minutes (no heat) or 5 minutes (gentle heat). Finally, apply the (remixed) product to the root area until the desired shade is reached (approx 20 mins - no heat or 20 mins - gentle heat). Total processing time 60 mins (No heat). OR Total processing time 30 mins (Gentle heat). REGROWTH APPLICATION: 12 SERIES High Lift Special Blondes are especially formulated for use with 30 Volume (9%) or 40 Volume (12%) developer to give maximum lift with maximum drab tone to control gold / yellow. Extra asheners enhance this. AVOID using these shades with developer strengths of less than 30 Volume (9%). Using shades with low volume developer can result in unwanted violet or blue / green tones APPLICATION FOR REGROWTH / RETOUCH HIGH LIFT SPECIAL BLONDE 12. SERIES When using Arctic Blonde 12. Series, apply to the REGROWTH AREA ONLY. DO NOT OVERLAP onto the middle lengths or ends. Develop for 55 minutes (No heat) or 30 minutes (Gentle heat). DAMPEN THE HAIR WITH A WATER SPRAY and blend the colour a few minutes before the end of the processing time. Applying full strength colour repeatedly to the lengths and ends will cause over porosity leading to fade, poor colour result and unwanted tones. CAUTION: DO NOT remix or use freshly mixed colour for lengths and ends. TECHNICAL MANUAL 8