Topic 5A: Waves, Part III Online Lecture: The Life of a Wave How Waves Change as They Travel Across the Ocean and to the shore
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1 5A_3 Slide 1 Topic 5A: Waves, Part III Online Lecture: The Life of a Wave How Waves Change as They Travel Across the Ocean and to the shore
2 Most Waves Are Made by the Strong Winds of Storms 5A_3 Slide 2 Blow over the Paper Piece of Paper Effects on the Ocean: Currents Gas Exchange Life Bernoulli Effect Experiment
3 Winds and Waves Wind Speed 5A_3 Slide 3 The Largest Waves are made close to the Poles during Winter. Wave Height
4 Waves Spread Outwards from the Storm like 5A_3 Slide 4 Storm As waves move away from the storm, their energy is spread over a wider & wider area. As waves move away from the storm, their energy is spread over a wider and wider area. Ripples get smaller as energy spreads out, but waves do not lose any energy.
5 5A_3 Slide 5 Wave Dispersion faster, long-period waves Waves separate : Long-Period waves leave the short-period waves behind. Swell: Long-period waves that are not longer mixed with short-period waves slower, short-period waves
6 Waves on Beaches: Change in Wavelength Does the wavelength of waves get longer or shorter as they approach a beach? 5A_3 Slide 6 Shorter Bottom of the Tank Why does the wavelength change? The wave crest closest to shore slows downs, because its orbitals feel the bottom. The wave crests farther from the shoreline begin to catch up. Never Catch Up
7 Not hitting the bottom & bouncing up! 5A_3 Slide 7 Beach Slowest Crest Squeezed Crest Waves on Beaches: Change in Height Fastest Crest Why do waves grow as they approach a beach? The crest closest to the beach slows down the most since the water is very shallow, & the crest that is farthest from the beach is moving fastest, because it is in deeper water. The crest in the middle is squeezed horizontally: the only direction that the water in the middle can go is up
8 Waves on Beaches: Kinds of Breaking Waves 5A_3 Slide 8 Plunging Breakers Spilling Breakers Fast Break, quickly go over 1/7 Gently Break, always close to 1/7 Plunging Breakers "Fa quickl Spilling Breakers Bubbles "Ge alway Other words are used to describe breaking waves
9 Waves on Beaches: Breaking Waves 5A_3 Slide 9 Why do waves break? become too steep (> 1/7) As waves approach a beach, wave height gets larger (prior to breaking) & wavelength gets shorter. Both cause the wave to get steeper. Waves break differently on different beaches depending on: Height Steepness Wavelength their initial wavelength & height, tide level, the slope of the beach Steep Beach Slope: waves slow down quickly when they feel bottom, squeezed upwards suddenly Beach Orbitals suddenly "feel the bottom"
10 Storm 5A_3 Slide 10 Ocean Waves almost always come almost straight towards a beach. Why? Land Why don't waves ever go down the coast? Why do waves always come directly into the beach?
11 Waves Change Direction: Refract 5A_3 Slide 11 Turn Towards the Coast
12 Refraction 5A_3 Slide 12 A line of soldiers walks into the mud. Soldiers on one end of the line move slower than soldiers at the other end. They fall behind, causing the line to bend. Slows down first. Mud Grass
13 Wave Refraction 5A_3 Slide 13 Do waves speed up or slow down as they get closer to the shore? slow down slower Beach Why? orbitals feel the bottom wave crest The part of the wave crest that is closer to shore is in shallower water, so it is moving slower. faster The end in deep water travels faster than the end in shallow water, so it covers a larger distance, causing the entire line to bend towards the coast
14 Pictures of Wave Refraction 5A_3 Slide 14 wave crests turn to match the shape of the shoreline
15 Effects of Refraction Refraction usually 5A_3 Slide 15 stretches wave crests: Spreads Out Energy Smaller Wrap Around Effect Headland Island "Wave Shadow:" Wave Island has blocked the waves. Shadow Farther = Deep = Faste = Turn Waves can bend towards each other: Interfere Higher
16 Waves May Not Completely Refract (Match the Shoreline) Before Breaking: Results in Longshore Transport 5A_3 Slide 16 Longshore transport is the movement of sand down the shoreline. The sand is pushed by the waves.
17 Longshore Transport 5A_3 Slide 17 When a wave gets close to the shoreline, the wave breaks. The water surges forward, pushing sand up the beach at an angle. Then, the water & sand slide back into the ocean, pulled downhill by gravity. This happens again and again, so the sand slowly Motion of the Sand Wave Direction Beach Breaking Wave Crests Direction of Longshore Transport The water no longer moves back and forth, staying in one place, like it does further offshore where the waves are not breaking. moves along the shoreline. Longshore transport does not cause sand to move along the shoreline.
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